Permuteran, as most of the beaches on the north coast of Bali, has black sand… a soft back sand reminding the volcanic origins of the island, where the mountains that frame the area are a strong evidence. But… there’s a small area where the sand is white! The whiteness of the coral reef located a few kilometers west from Permuteran, before the Taman Bali Barat Park.
This area creates a kind of peninsula with the north coast dominated by the mangroves, where you can get a nice view of the mountains but no protection from the sun. But to reach this white sand you need to cross a wide fishery area, that creates a kind of labyrinthic network of roads, able to mistake anyone.
But hidden in this area, there is a small bay with the perfect conditions to swim, the Banyuwedang Bay… transparent and still water, shade, lots of nature around, in an almost empty white sand… a contrast with the busy and dark beaches nearby Pemuteran village, located only eleven kilometers away!!!
Pemuteran beach… nearby the fishing village there is some garbage on the beach… and some traces of a religious ceremony
fisheries on the way to Mangrove beach
Where to sleep in Pemuteran:
Many options for many budgets but don’t expect to find anything less that 100.000 Rp. According to information from a guesthouse owner, the dorms are not allowed anymore in Pemuteran, as result of the pressure of some owners
If you are looking for a budget option you need to search on the land side of the road, as the coat line accommodation are all above 200.000 Rp. There are a few accommodations before the “gate” that marks the beginning of Pemuteran, but if are not planning to rent a scooter, maybe this area is a bit far from restaurants.
I found in a nice place in one of the small alleys that you find on the left side of the road Singaraja-Gilimanuk
- Bhakti Guest House. A quiet and very clean place, only with two rooms… so if you are looking for social life this is not your place! The family is not very talkative but is nice and available to help. The breakfast is the usual banana pancake but is served in a very generous portion with fruit and coffee. A room cost 150.000 Rp but could get it for 000 Rp, with the fact that if I had booked by a reservation website he would receive less money as these companies charge a commission of 15%.
Where to eat in Pemuteran:
Along the road, there are many restaurants, from the more fancy ones to the local warungs, where you can find a nasi campur from 10.000 Rp to 20.000 Rp.
One small stall stands up, that at the first look doesn’t have anything to offer but where I found a delicious gado-gado, made by a super friendly couple, that costs 7.000 Rp!!! … difficult to explain the place as there is no name, but is located on the opposite side of the road of the T junction that goes to Doubleyou Homestay.
How to move around in Pemuteran:
On foot ,you can reach restaurants and groceries shops but cannot go much further that the main beach nearby the Pondok Sari Resort, but is very busy and not that clean…. everywhere else you need a scooter. A scooter costs 60.000 Rp to 70.000 Rp a day. I rent mine at Bhakti Guest House.
There are also many buses running along the main road, as also a few bemos.
Best beaches in Pemuteran:
- At Banyuwedang Bay, you find an almost empty beach with white sand, surrounded by vegetation and with nice views of the hills. The water is very quiet and transparent and with shade from the trees. The reference point to reach Banyuwedang Bay beach is the “White Sandy Beach Menjangan”. The last part of the road is very bumpy but doable by scooter.
- Mangrove beach: close by Banyuwedang Bay, this beach is peaty tricky to find, because you need to cross a big area of fisheries that create a kind of labyrinth. The place is empty but no shade.
- If you don’t have your own transport, you can find a clean area to swim in front of Matahari resort.
ATMs and Money exchange in Pemuteran:
There’s a moneychanger at the Taruna Homestay. No commission and a better rate than the banks…. but not so good as in other places in Bali.
There are several ATMs along the road that cross Pemuteran.
How to go from Singaraja to Pemuteran:
- At Singaraja, you need to go to the Banyuasri Terminal. From there departure regular services on the way to Gilimanuk that stop in Pemuteran.
- The trip takes 2 hours and costs 50.000 Rp.
- Doesn’t exist a “center” in Pemuteran or a bus terminal, so just ask the driver to drop you nearby your accommodation… the cheapest accommodation are located at the entrance of Pemuteran, nearby the gate, and on the left side of the road.
How to go from Pemuteran to Gilimanuk:
Just walk from your guesthouse, hotel or homestay to the main road that crosses Pemuteran, and wait for the bus, a dark red van.
The trip takes 35 minutes and costs 30.000 Rp.
The bus will drop you at 300 meters from the ferry terminal.
The way to Gilimanuk is very beautiful, as you leave Pemuteran and reach a more natural area where the West Bali Natural Park is located.