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Assam

Mon… in the land of the Nagas

Mon greeted me with a violent storm that emerged unexpectedly just after the sunset, after a day when the blue had dominated the sky and nothing could presume this abrupt weather change, that brought also an uncomfortable chill air.

Mon, a small town located on top of hills and spread by its slopes, along winding roads, made of concrete buildings and metal roofs. Mon seems wrapped in a dull and gray mantle, where the scattered light rain creates a sad and depressing atmosphere, making dampen the enthusiasm of any visitor.

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Mon Town. Nagaland
Mon Town. Nagaland

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Mon Town. Nagaland
Mon Town. Nagaland

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In the mountains that surround the town create an insurmountable barrier on the horizon, where the green dense forest contrast with the urban gloomy scenario. But in some places it’s visible the heaviness of human impact, where large areas of semi-tropical forest have been completely wiped out, exposing the grayish-brown soil that transmits an immense feeling of desolation.

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montanhas que rodeiam a cidade de Mon. Nagaland
Mountains around Mon. Nagaland

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Montanhas em volta da cidade de Mon, sujeitas a intensa desflorestação que deixam o solo exposto À erosão. Mon. Nagaland
Walking arounf Mon Town. Nagaland

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The Nagaland mountains gathering various tribes and ethnic groups, which can count on about 16 and that under the British rule were divided between what is now India and Burma. But these modern borders don’t respect the ethnic and cultural characteristics of these people, which led to conflicts and violent actions, which lasted until 2013. Mon is the center of Konyak tribe, whose territory also extends to the north of Burma, whose physical features and Mongols faces clearly refer us to the Asian people.

The solid mountain range sheltered for centuries these Naga tribes, allowing these people to remain distant from the culture, language and Indian religion, keeping until today their own language, whose writing is curiously in Latin characters. It was also a result of this isolation that they could keep the religious practices, linked to animism, that were only destroyed by the arrival of missionaries, in the nineteen century who brought Christianity to these populations.

But despite this influence, the Konyak, kept alive their traditions, being famous as headhunters, where heads of warriors of enemy tribes were hung in the Morong (communal houses), as trophies after each fight. But from these traditions nothing remains, with human skulls already replaced by skulls of animals in the Morong decoration. But what have not disappeared yet, are the tattoos that men still show on their faces and neck, showing that they were succeeded as headhunters. These tattoos and the pierced ears are decorated with animals horns, are still used by some Konyak men, as well as colored beads necklaces, adorned with bronze carved faces, indicating the number of men killed. But only among the older ones you can find the famous tattoos of these warriors, as the times of tribal fights are getting distant.

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Konyak tribe. Mon. Nagaland
Konyak tribe man. Mon. Nagaland

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A power cut left Mon Town in the dark during the two days of my stay, and as in the Northeast of India night arrives early, there is not much to do in Mon after 5 pm, pushing me to my room, in a totally empty hotel located on a building abandon during the night, where I was the only human presence. By nine o’clock at night, without electricity and without company, sleep settles softly.

Outside, in a total darkness only interrupted by the glare of the headlights of scarce cars or motorbikes, Mon shows up hostile and sinister.

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Mon_Food Market_DSC_8667
Mon street market. Nagaland

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Mon Town. Nagaland
Shopping area at Mon Town. Nagaland

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During the day, Mon gains a certain life especially along the streets that gather most of the shops but is still present the feeling of poverty that dominates the city. A poverty not visible in houses or in people, not even in the outfits, were by the way youth wears very westernized and modern clothes, but a poverty associated with underdevelopment that shows up in the appearance of the shops, on the items they sell, in the short supply of products, in scarce diversity of the food at stores or street markets, uninteresting and monotonous food… a kind of poverty that result more from the isolation to which this population is subject, where the only access to Mon has to be done by an unpaved road, where the 65 km takes at least three hours to be covered, and where there are any accessible road connecting Mon other cities of Nagaland state. It is perhaps this isolation and the harsh conditions that make life difficult at Mon, that result in hard and closed faces, from where it is difficult to get a smile.

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Mon Town. Nagaland
Mon Town. Nagaland

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Where to sleep in Mon:

Pamount Guest House: located above the State Bank of India (also known as SBI), less than 5 minutes from the sumo stand. Double room by 1000 rupees but may be negotiated up to 800 rupees, because the place is empty all year except during the Aoling Festival.

Paramount Guest House contact: 9612170232; 08257811627

The room is small but comfortable and clean, with en-suite and some furniture, but there are several types of rooms with a bigger area. Curiously the six existing rooms on the top floor of this building have an odd numbered 9 to 235, jumping by 170, 210, 75, 215… which later turns out to be the number recorded in each of the keys !!!!

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Paramaunt Guest house. Mon. Nagaland
Paramaunt Guest house. Mon. Nagaland

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Just on the right side of the State Bank of India building, is the Sunrise Hotel that basically works as a restaurant, but also has rooms to rent. The room are more modest than the Paramount guest house, by 500 rupees, that can be negotiable. The Sunrise Hotel has only two rooms, but any of them with more than two beds; the bathroom is outside the building and has poor conditions.

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Sun Rise Hotel. Mon. Nagaland
Sun Rise Hotel. Mon. Nagaland

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The Paramount Guest House and the Sunrise Hotel are the only accommodation in central Mon, yet there is Helsa Cottage, which has better rooms for 1500 rupees but is a bit further away.

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Where to eat in Mon:

Mon is far from being attractive in terms of food, with a small number of restaurants, all very far from the westernized patterns. During the day, along the main streets, some place serve food but are hardly localizable because there’s no indication, but a curtain covering the door means that is a place with food, basically rice with dal and curry, locally known simply as “rice”.

Being a mountainous area the meat is constantly present but you can always ask for the “rice” in a vegetarian version, making clear no pork and no chicken. However this kind of meal, which gives the right to a “refill” it costs just for 50 rupees, is nutritionally poor and because vegetables are potatoes with a few yellow-peas and the dal (lentil curry) is rather watery.

In terms of street food, Mon doesn’t have much to offer beyond samosas and other fried dough snacks, excessively oily and sold in very poor hygienic conditions.

Basically, you can say that Mon is a disappointment in terms of gastronomy judging by what is available in restaurants and street stalls.

The Paramount Guest House prepares meals by order, that can be served in the room or in the dining room, a rice with dal and curry for 100 rupees, but without the spicy touch.

Next door is the Sun Rise Hotel restaurant serving rice, dal and vegetables, since morning for 40 rupees, but doesn’t serve dinner.

Along the streets of downtown Mon, especially at Market Street, the shopping area, there are several small and discreet eateries that serve puris, samosas or rice with curry. Two puris with a cup of sabji (potato and yellow peas curry) cost 10 rupees.

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street food em Mon Town. Nagaland
street food at Mon Town. Nagaland

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Transport in Mon:

Mon has a few public bus, but with an uncertain schedule, and is difficult to get information about the destinations. There are private buses, very early in the morning, but just to Dimapur and Kohima. The local means of transport are the sumos and the shared taxis.

  • Hire a taxi to Longwa costs 2500 rupees return. These taxis are stope near the sumo stand.
  • The sumo for Longwa costs 220 rupees (one way) and departure at 6 a.m. or in the afternoon by 1 p.m. It is necessary to book tickets in advance at least one day. The same for the way back. At Mon the tickets for sumo must be booked in a grocery, bit further down from the police circle, on the road that leaves Mon to Sonari.
  • A taxi to Mon Village (about 5 kilometers) costs 800 rupees; no sumo or shared taxis make this trip.

Sundays there is not any kind of transport in Nagaland … there is neither bus nor sumo or taxis.

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autocarro publico. Mon Town. Nagaland
Nagaland bus company. Mon Town. Nagaland

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How to go to Mon:

And the fastest way to get to Mon is from the neighboring state of Assam, at the city of Sonari. From Sonari sumos run daily, and this arduous journey takes three hours by a dirty road in poor conditions, where most of the journey is in a mountain area.

Being in Nagaland there are only two options to get to Mon: from Dimapur or from Kohima. From these cities run private buses and sumo to Mon, but they always need to pass through Assam and by the city of Sonari, as the roads in Nagaland state are in very bad conditions.

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How to go from Mon to Mokokchung:

There’s only one road to get out of Mon, and goes to Sonari, in the neighboring Assam state; so to travel between Mon and any other city of Nagaland, such as Mokokchung, it is always necessary to go through Sonari and Assam roads, are not very good but are flat and paved.

  • sumo from Sonari to Mon: 200 rupees (3 hours)
  • sumo from Mon to Mokokchung: 650 rupees (8 hours)

At Mon there’s only one sumo company that run to Mokokchung, the Link Network, with sumos to leave by 6:30 a.m, Monday to Saturday.

For any trip leaving Mon, either to Kohima, Dimapur, Sonari or Mokokchung, is necessary to book tickets at least one day in advance, and soon as possible to be able to choose one of the front seats, as the back seats are narrow extremely uncomfortable for such a long trip. Whatever the destination, the sumo run all early in the morning for 6 am.

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empresa que faz a ligação de Mon para Mokochung. Mon. Nagaland
office of “sumo” between Mon and Mokochung. Mon. Nagaland

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How to go from Mon to Longwoa:

The 35 kilometers that separate Mon from Longwoa are not easy to do, the means of transport are few; as there are no buses, the trip must be made by sumo or taxi. The sumos run, twice a day: 7 a.m. and 2 p.m. With the shortage of transport is required to reserve the ticket with a minimum of one day in advance.

The journey takes more than 1 hour.

These sumos don’t run from the sumo stand, like the other bound to Kohima, Dimapur, etc… but the road “down” the police circle (roundabout where sometimes is a police officer command the traffic). The sumo park in front of a grocery store, that also sell tickets.

  • sumo: 220 rupees (one way)
  • taxi: 2500 rupees (return)

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Mon Festival:

Aoling Festival: annually from 1 to 6 April

During the festival, a show of Konyak culture and traditions, and even a few days before the city of Mon begins to get more visitors, and is almost impossible to find a room, if you didn’t book in advance, and also increase the prices. It is advisable to book in advance if you wish to stay in Mon during the festival.

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Internet in Mon:

There is no internet place at Mon; neither Paramount Guest House or Sunrise Hotel have internet or wi-fi.

Right next to the entrance of the State Bank of India, in a corridor with shops, the first shop on the left side, with copies and prints, have internet (when the signal works).

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ATM on Mon:

There is only one ATM at Mon, the State Bank of India, where people line up to withdraw money, as the ATM it is not always available or working.

There are frequent power cuts In Mon, affecting the operation of the ATM. So it is recommended to bring enough money for all stay, as there are also no exchange shops.

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State Bank of India. Mon Town. Nagaland
State Bank of India. Mon Town. Nagaland

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elevation: 655 m

population: 16,120

From the Assam plains to Nagaland mountains… from Majuli to Mon

It’s time to say goodbye to the stillness of Majuli and the plains of Assam to heading up the hill to the challenging Nagaland. With the sunrise was time to get out of bed and prepare for departure from the island of Majuli, with the fields still wrapped in a fine mist. The first ferry leaves the island at 7 am, but to get there you have to wait on the roadside for a crowded bus heading to the makeshift pier, that is forced to change location according to the ups and downs of the Brahmaputra river.

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Ferry boat Pier at Majuli Island. Assam
Ferry boat Pier at Majuli Island. Assam

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Ferry boat Pier at Majuli Island. Assam
Ferry boat Pier at Majuli Island. Assam

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The boat ride is calm and monotonous landscape invites to sleep, but as soon as we landed in Nimati Gaht, this quietness is broken by the tempos drivers, who hurriedly try to put the largest number of passengers in their own vehicle, always in bigger number than space available.

The trip until Jorhat takes no more than half an hour but is uncomfortable enough for us look forward the arrival in the city, where we are “dumped” on a street where taxis and rickshaws line, and where each driver tries to push us to his vehicle. In this situation, when we don’t know where we are and have no idea of the direction to take, the best is to walk a bit, away from this chaos and look for reliable information. So it was time to find same food. But again was impossible to avoid the monotonous paratha with the usual curry of yellow peas and potatoes. To get trustful information in places where the English language isn’t “lingua franca”, the best option is to look for a pharmacy, where usually the owners speak a reasonable English.

With precise guidelines about the direction to take, it was time to start the trip with another series of buses and many transfers… from Jorhart to Sivasagar, from Sivasagar to Sonari, finally from Sonari to Mon.

As not everything follows the logic that we used, not always the buses leave us in the terminals, but somewhere along the road, at the mercy of tuk-tuk and taxi drivers who eagerly wait for disoriented passengers. But as always happen n this kind of long journey, someone shows up willing to help: or giving directions or sharing part of the ride, with the communication resumed to basic words or by using gestures.

Despite the discomfort of the buses, the many transfers, the warm weather, the journey from Majuli flow quit well, with good coordination between different means of transportation and short waits between buses, which encouraged me to go on the same day to Mon, saving me from stay one night in the unattractive and dusty town of Sonari.

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"sumo" stand at Sonari. Assam
“sumo” stand at Sonari. Assam

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Nagaland is reputed to be dangerous, especially Mon… perhaps because tribal wars have lasted until recently, perhaps due the proximity of Burma and opium route, or more likely by the isolation and negligence that is voted on this region, where scarce basic infrastructure and were is evident a certain underdevelopment. So often I received warnings not to travel alone in Nagaland, and especially never walk at night on the streets.

With this warnings, it becomes a priority to arrive as soon as possible to Mon, situated in a part of the country where the sun goes down before 5 pm. The only sumo waiting at Sonari was already full and there was no guarantee if there will be more sumos that day. Having glimpsed some space on the back of the Jeep, I could explain why gesture that there was still room for one more. Immediately the friendly driver proceeded to the reorganization of the goods on the top of the Jeep, to get some space near the other passengers, that despite not speaking English received me with smiles.

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Nagaland_road Sonari-Mon_DSC_8624
Road from Sonari to Mon. Nagaland

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Road from Sonari to Mon. Nagaland
Road from Sonari to Mon. Nagaland

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It was easy to know when we leave Assam and entered in Nagaland: Assam is flat… as soon as we start to go up the mountains we know that we are in Nagaland!

The road that leaves from Sonari, though asphalted is in poor condition, goes flat through tea plantations and warm temperature, into the direction of the mountains. Nagaland begins in the village of Tizit, and from here is always up until Mon, by a dirt road, where trucks and Jeep move slowly, overcoming bumps, avoiding pits and crossing small water stream. Is a road opened on the mountain slopes, with scattered villages, but where the impact of human presence is evident, by intense deforestation that leaves the poor top soil exposed to erosion, stolen life to this green forest, that is replaced by a brown color.

As we get closer to Burmese border, it is clear that we get in a sensitive area of the Indian territory, by the proximity to the opium route and by the ethnic and tribal conflicts that have kept this area in a war until 10 years ago. Along the way we are stopped by several checkpoints, by police and the army, and even by civilians who make rough inspections of vehicles, goods and passenger documentation, with foreigners being controlled with more bureaucracy.

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One of the checkpoints along the road from Sonari to Mon. Nagaland
One of the checkpoints along the road from Sonari to Mon. Nagaland

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The arrival at Mon was a bit grim, mainly because of the warnings about being a “dangerous” area, that never revealed or specified the risks, but that left a shadow of concern in the air.

The optimism and enthusiasm that characterized this journey from the plains of Majuli island, faltered on arrival Mon… maybe due to the tiredness, maybe because of the dark sky… but probably as a result of the heavy energy of the place. But the arriving of the night and the rainy weather didn’t allow to see more than a cluster of houses, spread along the hills, where the gray tone of the sky blends with the rusty metal roofs.

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Paisagem a caminho de Mon. Nagaland
Landscape on the way to Mon. Nagaland

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Permits:

It is not necessary any permit for entering and traveling in the state of Nagaland.

But you must give a copy of the passport in the check-point in Tizit. If you don’t a copy, you find a shop across the street that can make one for 5 rupees.

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How to go from Majuli to Mon:

Is a long and demanding journey, but with luck it’s possible to be done in a single day, saving a night on the uninteresting town of Sonari. But if necessary Sonari has accommodation. Another alternative is to stay in Sivasagar one day, taking the opportunity to visit the famous temples, and start the second stage of the journey on the next day.

  • The journey begins at 6.30 am in the morning to catch the first ferry out of Majuli at 7 am.
  • As you arrive at Nimati Gaht take a tempo (small shared taxis that carry more than 8 squeezed passengers) from the pier to Jorhat. All tempos end their journey on the main road at Jorhat, next to a petrol station. In front of the petrol station, there are tempos and tuk-tuk (also shared) following to the Jorhat Bus Terminal, located at the entrance of the city, close to the highway.
  • At the bus terminal is necessary to look for buses to Sonari, or in an alternative to Sivasagar. Outside the terminal, also stop private buses, bound for Dibrugarh, passing through Sivasagar. This was the option avoid the long wait for the ASTC (public company) buses, but these private companies have the disadvantage of stopping at much more time to collect passengers… but still are faster.
  • At Sivasagar is needed to take another bus to Sonari, from the Bus Terminal. As these two cities are close, there are regular services is this connection works as a local bus. You can buy the ticket inside the vehicle, but it doesn’t ensure a seat.
  • At Sonari, the bus stops at the main street, and you need to take a tempo to the sumo stand to Mon. It’s located on a side street, parallel to the main road. There is no indication or schedule of sumos… the later it gets smaller the chance to find a sumo for Mon. If necessary, in this place there are basic accommodation and you can make a meal based on rice and curry (50 INR) while waiting.
  • The sumo trip to Mon is long and uncomfortable, with the first part along a ruined pavement road, along a flat area. After crossing the border with the state of Nagaland, marked by a police/army checkpoint at Tizit, the conditions get worst, becoming a dirty road, in very poor condition, going up the mountain. Along the way, the sumo stops several times to drop goods and passengers, but there is no village around. Only halfway we find a small group of stalls selling fruit and vegetables and where you can buy water.
  • The travel from Sonari to Mon takes about 3 hours depending on the number of stops, obstacles on the road, and the various checkpoints where sometimes the passengers must get out.
  • The arrival Mon is almost by the end of the day but before 5 pm.

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food at the "sumo" stand at Sonari, before start the trip to Mon. Assam
“not that bad” food at the “sumo” stand at Sonari, before start the trip to Mon. Assam

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Summary:

Bus until Kamalabari Ghat: 15 rupees (15 minutes)

Ferry from Kamalabari Ghat (Majuli) to Nimati Gaht: 20 rupees (1.15 h)

tempo from Nimati Gaht to Jorhat: 30 rupees (30 minutes)

tempo from Jorhat (petrol station) to the Bus terminal: 10 rupees (10 minutes)

bus from Jorhat to Shivasagar: 50 rupees (2 hours)

tempo from Shivasagar to the bus stand: 20 rupees (5 minutes)

Bus de Shivasagar for Sonali: 30 rupees (2 hours)

tempo de Sonari to the stand sumo (to Mon): 10 rupees (10 minutes)

sumo de Sonali to Mon: 200 rupees (3 hours)… for just 65 km!!!!

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Majuli and the “satras”

From Majuli Island remain a quiet memory of the days spent quietly at the pace of bike tours, by roads surrounded by bamboos, that gently cut through the rice fields, whose green color fades under the gray sky, whose thick layer of clouds, brings a promise of rain.

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Majuli Island. Assam
Majuli Island. Assam

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Feels the presence of a mysterious silence, only interrupted by the rhythmic chirping of unseen birds, hidden in the dense canopy of trees. Egrets and storks search the muddy bottom of ponds left by the monsoon, while small birds pick insects along the roadside, in a hurried pace.

The flat landscape out of sight, with the skyline blurring in the fog that comes up from the fields, constantly soaked in water. In this diffuse scenario joins the smoke that slowly comes from bonfires made to burn the waste from the previous harvest, preparing the fields for another rice crop, in an island where agriculture is the main activity of the population that don’t exceed 150 thousand people.

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Majuli Island. Assam
Majuli Island. Assam

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Majuli Island. Assam
Majuli Island. Assam

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Majuli Island. Assam
Majuli Island. Assam

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Majuli Island. Assam
Majuli Island. Assam

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The Brahmaputra, the mythical and muddy river, which the apparently gentle waters become violent during the monsoon period, pouring the bed river and causing serious flooding. It’s this powerful force that is causing an accelerated erosion of the banks of Majuli island, which annually sees your area be reduced, with some villages been already swept away by the water. According to analytical predictions, the Brahmaputra can heal the entire island in 20 years… but nature has hidden plans, and what we see now as an island result from a huge flood in 1750.

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Majuli Island. Assam
Majuli Island. Assam

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Majuli Island. Assam
Majuli Island. Assam

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Despite being scattered all over the Assam state, Majuli shows the highest concentration of Satras, that attracts most of the visitors and helps to make this flat and green land, in a special place.

The Satras are like monasteries dedicated to Hinduism, created in the sixteenth century by the king of Assam, and despite changes and reforms have been working since then keeps as a center of arts and culture, in addition to the religious proposes. But religious practices in these monasteries differ from Hinduism practiced in the rest India, having diverged and gain own forms by the hand of Srimanta Sankardeva, who professed a monotheistic form of Hinduism called Vaishnavism. Depositaries of sacred scriptures of Vaishnavism, whose saint Sankardeva found refuge in Majuli, the Satras are still a place of pilgrimage among Assamese.

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Majuli Island_DSC_8558
Majuli Island. Assam

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There are hundreds of these monasteries around the state of Assam, 65 of which concentrated in the 1250 km2 of the Majuli Island, but where only 26 are still in running.

Differing in importance, age and size, all Satras basically follow the same structure, occupying a large area, which access is symbolically identified by a gate, that is decorated with lions, elephants, fish, horses, where some of these animals are depicted with wings or details that transport us to an unknown mythology. In the center of the Satra is a large pavilion reserved for rehearsal and performance of music and dance shows. Inside there’s always a giant wooden statue of Garuda, a winged figure with a long nose, a mix of man and bird, which back to the entrance, protects the place. Attached to this communal area there’s the altar, whose best example is the Sri Sri Auniati Satra, richly decorated. Around, forming a rectangle, are arranged the dormitories and other facilities, lined up under the ground floor galleries.

From the visited satras, the Uttar Kamalabari, located very close to the village with the same name, is the most attractive ad well maintained, keeping its old structure and the traditional construction, which gives an atmosphere able to transport us in time.

Bengenaati and Garamur are two other Satras easily accessible by bicycle, and worth being visited with time, to enjoy the peace and tranquility of the place. But they are also a good excuse to explore the island and observe the daily life of the population, enjoying the changes of light, that is able to make the monotony of the flat landscape in a surprising and mysterious scenery.

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Garuda. Sri Sri Auniati Satra. Majuli. Assam
Garuda. Sri Sri Auniati Satra. Majuli. Assam

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Night falls early in Majuli, as we are to the east of which is the central India, so just after four o’clock the sky begins to darken, with night arriving around 5 p.m. This makes it seem like the days are too short, especially for those that are not used to get up early. But here the population starts early daily routines, to work in the fields to rule the daily life in Majuli.

And it’s with the evening that something magical seems to happen in the satras that show almost deserted during the day. Under the dim yellow light, boys and young adults meet in the common area of Uttar Kamalabari, dancing and acting, to the sound of drums and soft melodies, where the mudras (symbolic or ritual gesture) are fundamental. Around, sitting on mats, Bhakats (celibate monks) observe closely the movements of these apprentices, correcting and encouraging. Sometimes these older monks have an active role in the rehearsals, playing mythic characters of hindu pantheon. The satras, besides the religious aspect, also work as art centers, where dance, theater, singing and music are fundamental pillars of the spread of Vaishnavism.

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Satra Uttar Kamalabari. Majuli. Assam
Satra Uttar Kamalabari. Majuli. Assam

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Satras:

Of the dozens of Satras existing in Majuli, these are easily accessible by bicycle. For the others, is necessary to hire a taxi as there are no motorbikes for hire.

Bengenaati: the oldest satra

Garamur: large and well-preserved satra

Sri Sri Auniati Satra: the most richly decorated

Uttar Kamalabari: the one that best preserves the original architectural features and which has more atmosphere.

There is a museum at Sri Sri Auniati Satra (50 rupees) but has no great interest, with some artifacts in poor condition, and with poor information. Some of the other Satras also have a museum, usually closed, and it is necessary to find out who has the keys and willingness to open the space to visitors.

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Satra Uttar Kamalabari. Majuli. Assam
Satra Uttar Kamalabari. Majuli. Assam

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Sri Sri Auniati Satra. Majuli. Assam
Sri Sri Auniati Satra. Majuli. Assam

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Garuda. Sri Sri Auniati Satra. Majuli. Assam
Garuda. Sri Sri Auniati Satra. Majuli. Assam

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Sri Sri Auniati Satra. Majuli. Assam
Sri Sri Auniati Satra. Majuli. Assam

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Satra Uttar Kamalabari. Majuli. Assam
Satra Uttar Kamalabari. Majuli. Assam

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Weaving at Majuli island:

Although the biggest attraction of Majuli are the Satras, a longer visit allows seeing the modest but elaborate weaving, made by women.

In precarious huts, under the bamboo houses, in the yards, at the porches… women, from different generations, spend hours weaving elaborate textiles in simple wooden looms, which result in colorful and intricate patterns.

One would think that this is an important economic activity that keeps women occupied while the rice fields don’t need so much manpower. But these beautiful weaving fabrics are to be used be themselves, with the simple ones as casual outfit, and the most elaborate and showy for special occasions, such as visiting a satra, which is always done in a family.

The Assamese, particularly men often wear a cloth around the neck, in the form of a scarf, the gamosa where over a white background arise in a bright red color, figures or geometric patterns, that stand out in the plain background. These scarfs, that can easily be mistaken with towels, have several uses and serve not only as an adornment around the neck or around the waist, as well as a bath towel, or for decorating tables and altars. The red and white of these fabrics is a common ornament of satras statues, as well as an essential decoration of the garuda, with a long nose and broad wings.

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Majuli Island. Assam
Majuli Island. Assam

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Majuli Island. Assam
Majuli Island. Assam

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Majuli Island. Assam
Majuli Island. Assam

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Where to stay in Majuli:

In Kamalabari there are several guest houses within a walking distance, with a backpack. But some of them refuse to receive foreign, saying that are full. Others offer poor conditions. In general, the accommodation in the island, as well as in major cities of the northeast states, is more expensive than usual, with a double bedroom with shared toilet, costing at least 400 rupees.

From several places visited in Kamalabari and Garamur, the best option is undoubtedly the Ygdrasill Bamboo Cottage, located near the road that connects the two villages. You can rent a bike (50 rupees) and order meals. The delicious dinner is composed of varied and yummy dishes; costs 150 ruppes… but the food is adjust to Western “taste”, ie without spicy.

There are several types of rooms at Ygdrasill Bamboo Cottage, all built in wood and bamboo. A double room with en-suite can vary between 600 and 1000 INR.

Ygdrasill Bamboo Cottage (on the road between Kamalabari and Garamur)

Contact: [email protected]

Tel: 08876707326; 088 222 42244

In parallel with this hotel business, and based on the same site, there is a NGO – Amar Majuli – dedicated to supporting local development projects, particularly women.

//www.facebook.com/pages/Amar-Majuli/706510102708825

Contact: [email protected]

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Ygdrasill Bamboo Cottage. Majuli Island. Assam
Ygdrasill Bamboo Cottage. Majuli Island. Assam

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Ygdrasill Bamboo Cottage. Majuli Island. Assam
Ygdrasill Bamboo Cottage. Majuli Island. Assam

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Where to eat in Majuli:

In Ygdrasill Bamboo Cottage is served dinner to the guest, and it worth, because the options in terms of restaurants, both in Kamalabari as Garamur, are truly poor and unattractive.

For breakfast you can find samosa or puris (fried flat bread) accompanied by a boring potato curry, in several restaurants. At lunch it’s only served one dish, the usual rice and potato curry and a few scarce vegetables, accompanied by a watery dal (lentil curry).

However the most popular dish is paratha, which here is made plain, without stuffing, which is no more than a flat bread, cooked in a frying pan with a bit of oil. To accompany this kind of pancake is served a potato curry, where some grains and a sweet chutney, that more resembles a fruit jam.

Clearly Assam is not a destination for those food is one of the attractions of travel!!!… potatos at every meal! However the food is very cheap, with a samosa costing 5 rupees, a meal of paratha about 25 rupees and a rice-based meal costing 60 rupees.

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Transport in Majuli:

There are shared-taxis from Kamalabari to Garamur, locally called tempo, or sumo it’s a Jeep, which connect the main towns to the Kamalabari Gaht, from where the ferry. So it is best to walk down the road and wait to pass any of these vehicles or one of the few buses that connect to the ferryboat.

  • bus from Garamur for Kamalabari Gaht: 15 rupees
  • tempo or sumo (shared taxis) of Garamur to Kamalabari: 10 rupees
  • taxi from Garamur to Kamalabari Gaht: 200 rupees

Another option is hitchhiking, to some passing cars, not being yet difficult to get a ride because of the generosity of people.

But the best is to rent a bike. The roads are flat but have some areas in poor condition. There is no shop specializing in this business, so it is necessary to go asked the local population. Some of the guest houses rent bicycles.

Raja is a friendly taxi driver who was very helpful in the search for accommodation, at a time when almost everything was full because of the visit of Prime Minister to the island. Contact: 8811 9777 51

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Internet in Majuli:

As is normal in the accommodation in Assam and other northeastern states of India, there is no wi-fi. It is necessary to look for an internet post: “web-cafe” or “cyber-cafe”. However there is not always wi-fi, but only computers.

But Kamalabari has an internet point with wi-fi and good connection and reasonable speed, situated between the main junction and the gasoline pump.

  • Wi-fi: 20 rupees per hour.

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wi-fi cyber cafe. Kamalabari. Majuli Island. Assam
wi-fi cyber cafe. Kamalabari. Majuli Island. Assam

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elevation: 84 m

population: 153,400

… from paradise to paradise, going through hell… from Nongriat to Majuli

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Purpose: leave Nongriat and the fantastic scenery of Khasi Hills in the state of Meghalaya and go to Majuli, a river island situated in the mythical Brahmaputra, that run through Assam plains.

Obstacles: First it was necessary to overcome about 3000 steps that separate Nongriat from Tyrna, and there find a public transport to Sohra. Then go from Sohra to Shillong, and from Shillong to Guwahati. And from Guwahati reach Jorhart before the last ferry leave to Majuli Island.

Mode of transport: sumo (shared-taxi), tuk–tuk, tempo (shared tuk-tuk), bus and ferryboat.

Team: three intrepid travelers of different nationalities, with extensive experience traveling through India.

***

Looking at the map, knowing a little about how to travel in India, and being already familiar with the transport system in the Northeast states, this trip, although ambitious had no major problems, apart from the fact that it will take two days to win the nearly 470 kilometers that separate Nongriat from Majuli. To all this joins the need to spend a night in the city of Guwahati, whose hospitality wasn’t a good memory from the last visit.

But the Northeast States have their peculiarities that have created unexpected obstacles, requiring much patience and effort. First, it was the Holi Festival, celebrated by Hindus in Assam, and being a holiday just before the weekend allows many people to travel, making difficult to find public transports. By chance or not, this weekend coincided with Easter, and being Meghalaya a strongly Christian state, it was guaranteed that no public transport run from Good Friday to Easter Sunday. With this scenario, we could end “stuck” in the uninteresting village of Sohra for a few days. Adding to all these, the Assam regional elections, that put the quiet island of Majuli in the itinerary of the election campaign of the Indian prime minister, which brought with it thousands of people, in a kind of pilgrimage.

Climbing the steps from Nongriat to Sohra left legs tired, the body soaked in sweat, and some melancholy for abandoning such paradisiac place.

But the bucolic calm of the countryside was quickly replaced by the rush and stress to leave quickly Sohra and reach Shillong in time to take a “sumo” to Guwahati, in a period that the weekend and the Holi Festival had put lots of people traveling, decreased the chances of getting a places in the sumo which link the capitals of Meghalaya and Assam states. But this mission was done with success, despite the long wait near unfriendly and drunken staff of sumo company, who took advantage of the situation charging a few extra rupees for the ticket.

On arrival at Guwahati was repeated the frustrating search for accommodation, in a city where many of the hotels and guesthouses don’t allow foreigners, pushing us too costly options. After a dose of antipathy, just the unattractive dorm of the Youth Hostel remains, which in these situation proved to be quite friendly, and where the decay of the place gained a touch of “patina“.

Despite the comforting meal and a deep night of sleep, the group was demoralized by the idea of 6 hours bus ride to Jorhat. But waiting for us, was a modern luxury bus, from the recommended state company, ASTC, with comfortable and spacious seats, giving encouragement for the next step of this journey.

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Campos de arroz. Assam
Rice fields along the road from Guwahati to Jorhart. Assam

 

Plantações de chá. Assam
Tea plantations along the road from Guwahati to Jorhart. Assam

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As the flat and monotonous landscape of Assam, of rice fields and tea plantations passing through the windows, the eyes were getting heavy and the body surrender to sleepy inertia. But nothing lasts, and we were suddenly forced to abandoning the comfort of air-conditioning, dumped to the dusty and noisy edge of the national highway, without knowing exactly where we were. So this way we arrive to Jorhat!

At Jorhat, there was no time to stops, and from tuk–tuk to tempo, in the middle of the disorganized city traffic, we made the turbulent journey through a dusty bumpy road, until Nimati Gaht. After this last tempo ride, squeezed between other passengers and luggage, arriving to the muddy banks of Brahmaputra, in time for the last boat, was a relief.

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Nimati Gaht, Jorhart. Assam
Nimati Gaht, Jorhart. Assam

 

From Nimati Gaht (also written as Neamati), a makeshift ferry pier where the stormy river doesn’t allow lasting structures, followed a quiet trip to Majuli, in a crowded ferry boat, where the roof of the passenger compartment, is used to transport goods and motorbikes… and a few more passengers. The trip on the boat’s roof, besides the fresh air provides a view to the island, whose completely flat surface blends with the horizon.

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Brahmaputra. Assam
Brahmaputra. Assam

 

Brahmaputra. Assam
Ferry boat that cross the Brahmaputra until Majuli. Assam

 

Brahmaputra. Assam
Brahmaputra. Assam

 

Brahmaputra. Assam
Brahmaputra. Assam

 

As we left the ferry directly to the sand bank that forms Majuli (officially the world’s largest river island), we were hastily conducted to an already full shared-taxi. Soon all the vehicles were full and quickly leave the pier area. Luckily a military bus gave us some space and a pleasant talk. After the journey through the sands, follows a green and rural landscape, where the road takes us to the first village: Kamalabari.

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Assam_Brahmaputra River_Ferry_Majuli_DSC_8592
Kamalabari Gaht. Majuli Island. Assam

 

Majuli junto ao local onde os ferry boats atracam. Assam
Kamalabari Gaht. Majuli Island. Assam

 

And when finally, after almost two days on the road, we finally arrive at our destination, the biggest obstacle of all trip emerged: finding accommodation in Majuli.

The options are not many on the island, but to aggravate the situation, our arrival coincided with the visit of Indian Prime Minister to the island, during the campaign of regional Assam elections. In India, political campaigns mobilize many people, but this time, the situation has worst due to the presence of Modi, on which lies a sort of almost religious veneration, attracting an unusual crowd to the island. As it was the first time a prime minister visited Majuli since India’s independence, lots of people come to the island to see him, reducing the chances of find accommodation.

With the help of some locals, vegetable vendors, taxi drivers and even from the troops, that were there to ensure the security of the Prime Minister, it was possible after 3 hours of searching to find a place to sleep, where the owner took advantage of the situation, inflating the price of the rooms.

Despite being a bit unpleasant, the room offered conditions for a well-deserved rest after a terrible meal, of dal and potato curry, an oily paratha and a stew of yellow pea and more potato. This boring yellowish meal marks the beginning of a series of meals, which force me to correct my quote “that the Indian food even if not good, is never bad!”… as the stay in Assam made me change my mind!!!

 

How to go from Nongriat to Guwahati:

  • climbing almost 3000 steps until reaching the main road;
  • walk to Tyrna, for about half-hour; from here you can also take a taxi directly to Sohra;
  • Bus or shared-taxi from Tyrna to Sohra: 40 rupees (20 minutes)
  • “sumo” from Sohra to Shilllong: 70 rupees (1.5 hours)
  • Shilllong in the sumo ends in Babra Bazaar, within a terminal on the top floor. To find the sumo to Guwahati is necessary to go to a bigger terminal in another concrete building about 5 minutes further up, in the same street, on the left side. If there any available sumos here, you need to catch a taxi (or walk) to Police Bazaar, and then down the Keating Road (left of GS Road) until you find the sumo stand to Guwahati, the left side.
  • sumo from Shilllong to Guwahati: 170 rupees (2.50 hours but can be more than 3 hours depending on the traffic).
  • In Guwahati, the sumo ends at Paltan Bazaar, near the bus terminal and the train station.

 

"tempos" uma espécide de taxi partilhado entre Jorhart e o Nimati Gaht. Assam
“tempos” a kind of shared-taxi that link Jorhat to Nimati Gaht. Assam

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How to go from Guwahati to Majuli:

  • Bus from Guwahati to Jorhat: 330 rupees (the trip takes seven hours, stopping for breakfast). The bus leaves the passengers outside the city, on the highway. From here to the Bus Terminal of Jorhat, is not that far and can be done on foot.
  • Shared-taxi (tempo) from here to the center of Jorhat (Jorhart bazaar): 20 rupees (10 minutes)
  • In Jorhat (bazaar) there are shared-taxis (tempo) to Nimati Gaht: 20 rupees (20 minutes)
  • Ferry Nimati Gaht to Majuli Island: 30 rupees (1 hour)
  • Shared-taxi from the pier to Kamalabari (the nearest village): 30 rupees (20 minutes)

 

Tarifas do ferryboat para Majuli. Assam
Ferry boat fees… despite the 15 rupees written on the boars the ticket is 20 rupees. Majuli Island. Assam

 

Horário do ferryboat para Majuli. Assam
Ferryboat Schedule. Assam

 

Guwahati… the gateway to Northeast States

Guwahati, not being the capital of the state of Assam, is the city that works as a gateway to the so-called Northeastern States, mainly due to its geographical position in a lowland area, between Bhutan and the mountains of the state of Meghalaya.

Under the generic name of Northeastern States, gathering seven states also called Seven Sisters, located in the extreme north-east of India, delimited by Bhutan, Bangladesh, Burma (Myanmar) and Tibet (China). These states along with Sikkim are “linked” to the rest of the India by a narrow strip of territory, part of the state of West Bengal. This strip of Indian territory between Nepal and Bangladesh is called “chicken’s neck,” that at some point only 23 km wide.

These Seven Sisters are Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Meghalaya, Tripura, Mizoram, Manipur and Nagaland. Until recently these states had some restrictions being necessary permits to visit, but currently, only the state of Arunachal Pradesh requires permits, both foreign and Indian nationality, given the sensitive border with China.

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Guwahati
Guwahati

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After a 30 hours train trip, the usual bustle of Indian big cities waits for us, with noise, traffic and the hurried movements of people. But Guwahati has the advantage of having the train station right in the center of the city, which avoids the usual stress of negotiating rates with tuk-tuks drivers.

And being the gateway to the northeastern states, it is noted upon arrival, a big ethnic diversity.

Leaving the train station we are faced with the Paltan Bazaar located on the left side of the busy national highway running through the town, the GS Road (Guwahati-Shillong Road). In Paltan Bazaar, within five minutes from the station and the bus terminal, there’re plenty of accommodations, dominating the hotels with a big range of prices and quality. But this is here where the difficulties begin. Many of the hotels don’t have the special license need to accept foreigners, given the small number of non-Indians visitors that come so far. Therefore, the most modest lodgings don’t accept foreigners, arguing that they are full when are obvious the room keys hanging patiently at the reception.

This way we are pushed to more expensive hotels, some taking advantage of the few alternatives, charging high prices for a room in miserable conditions… 600 rupees that don’t guarantee clean sheets!

In this search for a place to sleep came on my way the Youth Hostel, an institution that I was unaware of existing in India. In a building that has seen better days, reigns an atmosphere of abandonment and emptiness, where the room show an urgent need of repairs and the toilet is decrepit, but cheap price, the clean sheets and the friendly staff made this place look like a warming shelter to spend a night, before traveling to the mountains of Meghalaya.

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Fancy Bazzar
Fancy Bazaar

 

The last afternoon spent in the Guwahati there wasn’t the opportunity to get away from restless city center, away from the confusing Paltan Bazaar and Fancy Bazaar, which despite the names are quite similar. But there was time to walk to the banks of Brahmaputra, which the brownish waters offers a serene landscape that contrasts with the movement of the city streets. The Brahmaputra, one of the largest Asian rivers, runs through the state of Assam, heading south until the Bay of Bengal, crossing the plains of Bangladesh.

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Brahmaputra
Brahmaputra

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In Hindu religion, it is common the representation of the yoni with the lingam, which corresponds to the female and male elements of cosmic creation, according to the Shiva followers. But in India, there are few temples dedicated exclusively to the female side of this energy: Shakti (also referred as Devi), the goddess representing the energy of creation and change, also associated with fertility and creativity.

Guwahati is one of the most important temples dedicated to mother goddess: the Kamakhya Temple, where during Ambubachi Mela animals are sacrificed, according to Tantric tradition, with the blood of goats symbolizing the annual period of goddess Kamakhya.

Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati
Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati

 

Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati
Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati

 

Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati
Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati

 

Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati
Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati

 

For those who visit the place, where the red color stands out, symbolizing the menstruation, the female reproductive cycle and fertility… in the red robes of the pujari (followers of goddess Kamakhya), in the red flowers that adorn statues, in the red pigment covering the statues of Kamakhya, from whom are lit incense and candles, and the red that seems to come out from vaginas of women statues associated with fertility.

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Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati
Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati

 

Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati
Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati

 

How to go to the Kamakhya Temple:

 

To go to Kamakhya, you can catch one of the buses that pass on GS Road. Just ask for “Kamakhya” and stop on the main road (AT Road). The bus ticket costs 8 rupees. After crossing a gate, there are the ASTC buses that make the journey to the top of the hill, for 7 rupees; these buses depart when are full and the journey takes about 10 minutes. There is a pedestrian access, a staircase you access to the temple but that seems to be little used, with the pilgrims prefer the comfort and the speed of the bus.

To visit the interior of the temple is required to join the dozens of pilgrims waiting patiently in a long queue, holding offerings to Kamakhya altar. But as often happens in India, where is strong the distinction between social classes, there is a VIP access which saves the pilgrims and visitors from a long wait, by paying 501 rupees… yes, five hundred and one… why this modest rupee among other 500!?!!

 

Portico junto à estrada principal onde estacionam os bus que vão até ao cimo da colina. Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati
Gate that mark the entrance to the road that goes up to Kamakhya Temple, where buses stop. Guwahati

 

autocarro para o Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati
Bus Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati

 

Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati
Kamakhya Temple. Guwahati

Where to stay in Guwahati:

For those who stay only for one night, the GS Road and the side streets around Paltan Bazaar, offer dozens of options for several prices. From my experience, you can’t get a room with shared toilet for less than 500 rupees, which however don’t guarantee clean sheets.

Unexpectedly I found the Youth Hostel that has a discreet access on the right side of GS Road, on the corner of MD Shah Road. The building looks abandoned, and in fact, almost no one stays here, with some of the rooms being used as offices of Assam tourism department. The available room works in a dormitory system, with 4 beds with a private bathroom, but everything is in a miserable condition, in need of heavy repairs especially the toilet facility. The bed is comfortable and the sheets are clean; it has a mosquito net for each bed.

The Youth Hostel is an option for those who intended to stay only one night in Guwahati and have a very short budget.

Youth Hostel Guwahati: Bed in a dormitory room with toilet: 250 INR (the room, regardless of the number of occupants). Despite being a dorm, as no one else the room was just for me.

 

Youth Hostel. Guwahati
Youth Hostel. Guwahati

 

Youth Hostel. Guwahati
Youth Hostel. Guwahati

 

Youth Hostel. Guwahati
Youth Hostel. Guwahati

Where to eat in Guwahati:

Many restaurants, here called “hotel” line up next to the train station and along the GS Road, as well as the cross streets of Paltan Bazaar, with reasonable vegetarian thalis for 60 rupees. Here rules the typical Indian food, but in a poorer version that usual, with rice, potato based curries and watery dal. Almost all restaurants have vegetarian and non-vegetarian options, which reflects the taste of the Assamese for meat.

There are great parathas during the morning in two small restaurants at the beginning of GS Road, Greenview and Deepak Restaurant, located on the right side of those coming from the south of the train station exit.

 

"parathas" no Paltan bazaar. Guwahati.
“parathas” at Paltan bazaar. Guwahati.

 

restaurante de comida indiana e deliciosas "parathas" no Paltan bazaar. Guwahati.
Indian food restaurant with good “parathas” at Paltan bazaar. Guwahati.

 

If you are in Fancy Bazaar and feel the call of the stomach, Rajhans Hotel, on the second floor of an anonymous building is a nice option with vegetarian food, friendly service and a decor that takes us to a school canteen, which have certain charisma and a super smiley staff.

Rajhans Hotel: S.S. Road, Fancy Bazaar, Guwahati. Vegetarian thali for 70 rupees.

Rajhans Hotel. Vegetariano. Fancy bazaar. Guwahati.
Kitchen of Rajhans Hotel. Vegetarian restaurant at Fancy bazaar. Guwahati.

 

tahli no Rajhans Hotel. Vegetariano. Fancy bazaar. Guwahati.
Vegetarian tahli no Rajhans Hotel. Fancy bazaar. Guwahati.

 

Rajhans Hotel. Vegetariano. Fancy bazaar. Guwahati.
Rajhans Hotel. Vegetarian restaurant at Fancy bazaar. Guwahati.

 

Rajhans Hotel. Vegetariano. Fancy bazaar. Guwahati.
Rajhans Hotel. Vegetarian restaurant at Fancy bazar. Guwahati.

 

Transports in Guwahati:

Both the train station and the public bus terminal (ASTC) are conveniently located in the center of Guwahati, close to hotel and restaurants and other commercial activity.

From Guwahati, there are trains that cross Assam stat, towards the North until Dibrugarh, passing through Dimapur.

 

Note: Guwahati railway station has two entrances: the north side (the same side of the river) and that is the main entrance, and another on the south side that leads directly to the GS Road (Guwahati-Shillong Road). The Reservation Office (for long distance tickets) is in a building a few meters from the north entrance of the station (opposite the Paltan bazaar).

 

Guwahati Train Station. South entrance. Paltan Bazaar
Guwahati Train Station. South entrance. Paltan Bazaar

 

Guwahati Train Station. North entrance.
Guwahati Train Station. North entrance.

 

The public bus station is just outside the train station (near the Paltan Bazaar). The ticket office ASTC is inside the building, although there are several counters of private companies that also sell tickets for ASTC buses.

The bus (ASTC) from Guwahati to Shillong leaves at 7:30 am, and the journey takes 4 hours.

  • Bus ticket to Guwahati-Shillong: 135 rupees (a/c)… in fact, the air conditioning doesn’t work, but it is bearable because the bus always runs with the door open, and as we move away from the plains of Assam, the temperature is drop down.

 

 

horários. Terminal de autocarros da ASCT em Guwahati
Timetable of private buses from Guwahati

 

Terminal de bus ASCT em Guwahati
Central buses Terminal. Guwahati

 

Terminal de autocarros da ASCT em Guwahati
Timetable of private buses from Guwahati

 

horários. Terminal de autocarros da ASCT em Guwahati
Timetable of ASCT buses from Guwahati

 

As an alternative to the buses, there are sumos, a shared all-terrain, which are a very popular mode of transport in the Northeast states, and that makes the connection between the main cities. Inside the Guwahati Bus Terminal, in the bus park, there’s a booth where you can buy tickets for the sumos. In general, these vehicles have no set time, circulating during the day, since very early morning, and depart when they are full.

  • sumo Guwahati to Shillong: 170 rupees (the trip takes about 2.45 pm, depending on traffic and number of stops)

bilheteira de "sumo" no Terminal Central de autocarros
“sumo” counter at Guwahati central bus terminal

 

Internet in Guwahati:

Most hotels don’t have internet and those who have charge sometimes 100 rupees per day. The best option is the cyber-cafes that aren’t easy to find.

In GS Road, on the left side for who comes from the train station, there is a shop “complex”, and on the first floor there’s a cyber-cafe, Virtual Office, with good connection and wi-fi.

  • Wi-fi: 30 rupees per hour.

 

Elevation: 56 m

Population: 809,895

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