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Istanbul

Istanbul cats

Cats, cats and more cats … the city of Istanbul will always be associated with the presence of these cats, which are a bit all over the place, taking advantage of any location for an extended nap, is a tombstone in a graveyard, a balcony, a terrace, at the train station, in mosques, in markets or in a window of a shop… it is sometimes necessary to compete for space on a chair in a restaurant or a sofa in a coffee shop.

Mostly are stray cats, but the population of the city takes care of them, leaving food and water and always there’s time to stop and pet this creatures that are part of the Istanbul cosy atmosphere.

Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…

Balat… and the gypsy wedding

Balat, located in the Golden Horn, is famous for being associated with the presence of Jews in the city, presence this has contributed to the fame of Istanbul capital from diverse cultures and ethnic groups, with also the presence of Greeks, Kurds, Syrians, Armenians and consequently multi-religious, with the presence of Yezidis, Christian Orthodox, Catholic and all variants of Islam such as the Alevis, Sufi, etc… However, since the second world war this panorama has changed a lot, and the country is now largely dominated by Sunni Muslims.

Nowadays, in Balat is difficult to find traces of the  Jewish presence, except by discrete a synagogue and by symbols carved in older stone buildings.

Despite of the state of degradation of many of the traditional houses built in wood with small balconies the level of first floor, Balat keep a certain charme and atmosphere. Along the main streets of the neighbourhood is possible to find many cafes, terraces and restaurants in a more modern and cosmopolitan style, as well as vintage stores more for tourists who wander around here. A sophistication that balances well with the traditional cafes, place of entertainment where men spend hours playing chess and cards, or sitting in chair at the street, drinking tea, which here is called chai, that is a common habit throughout the country.

Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat

But walked north along the Golden Horn, crossing the bridge Valid Sultan, comes to Ayvansaray, where the atmosphere is somewhat different, noting a poorer population, more curious and somewhat less accustomed to the presence of tourists. Following randomly by little streets, we were led by the shrill sound of music and voices in a indecipherable language. Until we reach a narrow street where several pieces of clothing from fur coats, towels, sweatshirts, underwear, dresses, skirts, socks, sheets… hang on a string that zigzag up the street. Across this strange drying of new clothes, you arrive at the center of all the action that spreads to nearby streets, where a group of women, fake blond hair and heavy gold jewellery, chanting words at the pace of the drums, in a laud and lively way.

Toke time to realize the reason for so much animation, but the way of dressing and atitude of these women, far away from the description and shyness of Muslim women, along with all the wealth of display material, pointed to the celebration of a marriage between the Roma community.

Friends, neighbours, family and onlookers formed an exclusively women’s group, around the bride, taking over of the narrow street, full of offerings that apart from hanging clothes, include shoes and bags, washing machine and detergent, dishes and pans, sheets and blankets… and even a carefully wrapped in gold paper toilet; hundreds of decorative objects forming a colourful and bright set dominated by fake gold color.

Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray

How to get there:

The best way to achieve Balat is by ferry, and you can catch a ferryboat which starts at Uksudar, the Asian city side and making routs across the Golden Horn to Eyup, which stops at various points as Karaköy, Eminonu, Cibali, Fener, Balat and Haskoy.

This is the best and cheapest ways to navigate through the channel without paying for the cruise ships and it costs the normal price of a ferry ride, about 2.15 TL for those with the Istanbul Kart.

From Eminonu bus terminal there are also several buses that roam the avenues by the sea and that make stop in Balal, such as 99A. Istanbul city buses have an electronic panel with the full itinerary, that  indicates the next stop as all the following stops.

Likewise, the ferry or bus can reach the zone Ayvansaray.

Fatih… a more Muslim facet of Istanbul

The market Çarşamba in Turkish means Wednesday, the day which takes place this market occupies a significant area in the Fatih district, located on the European side of the city, and one of the most conservative areas of the city, sit a greater presence of the Muslim religion, easily recognizable by the way of dressing of the female population, which dominate the scarves to cover their heads, the hijab called, completely hiding the hair and can be used in various ways, but which dominate the silky fabrics, profusely intricate and colourful patterns.

Quite popular, more here than in other Istanbul zones are pardesu, a kind of thin fabric gabardine who dresses over clothing, slightly belted or even a discreet belt, usually black, but the younger girls They wear light-colored, and does not dispense the same use of the hijab to cover her head.

The chador, a clear influence of Iran and Afghanistan, despite being situated in areas along the bazaars of the old town here is much more common, hiding the body shapes from head to toe, and which invariably black, seems to transform women in faceless shadows.

The visit to Çarşamba market culminated in the beginning of one of the most important Muslim religious festival, after the Ramadan: the Kurban Bayrami, or Feast of the Sacrifice, during which animals are sacrificed, sheep and cows, and serves as a pretext for family gathering and for a national holiday that last for four or five days, and that happens 70 days after Ramadan.

The Kurban Bayrami celebrates the courage of Ibrahim to sacrifice his son Ishmael to show their faithfulness to Allah, which is very similar to a history found in the Old Testament, when God tests the loyalty of Abraham asking him to kill his son Issac.

By Çarşamba is a bit of everything: fruit, vegetables, cheeses, olives, nuts … but what stands out is the sale of clothing, bags, shoes, scarves standing out the necessary cover her head. The celebrations of Kurban Bayrami, also pass by the gift that parents make their children new shoes and clothes, which made this market day still love her lively and crowded

Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market

 

Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market

 

Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market

 

Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market

 

Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market

 

Istanbul_Fatih_DSC_0116
Fatih

How to get there:

In Eminonu, near the pier of the ferryboats take bus 90 or 90B and go to Çarşamba.

Istanbul: Sultanahmet and the old town bazares

The south side of the European part of Istanbul, is the oldest part of town, where the weight of the Muslim presence is evident not only by the concentration of mosques as also by the way women dress, with head covered, long, loose and dark clothing. Is not uncommon find face veiled women wearing the black chador that blurs the contours of the body, but where only the eyes stand out, often highlighted by lush make-up.

This is the most popular image of Istanbul, with its bazaars where in addition to the daily use of products from inhabitants, can also find spices, dried fruit, pastries, cheeses, olives, etc … being easy to get lost in the narrow tangle streets constantly crowded with people, an incessant coming and going.

At the center of this area is the Grand Bazaar (Kapali Carsi), clearly intended for tourists, and the Spice Bazaar (Misir Carsisi), more modest but with more character.

But it is in the streets surrounding these sites that is possible to find the more characteristic and authentic environment of a city full of traditions, resulting from a mix of cultures and peoples who passed through here and culminating in a very own identity and that is evident from the Turkey of today.

 

Compelling points of Sultanahmet district is the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii), the Aya Sofia a legacy of the Byzantine Empire and Basilca Cisterna, a complex built in the basement that once was part of the water supply system, also heritage of the Byzantine Empire and date of 532 AD.

 

One of the best kept secrets in one of the side streets in the Spice Bazaar area is the Büyük Valide Han, a building built during the Ottoman Empire to accommodate merchants and now home to artisans who insist on carrying out their trade despite the state of degradation that was voted. But what makes this special place is the view we have of the city of Istanbul from the terrace through which is accessed by a dark, narrow staircase after giving a symbolic contribution of one lira, the man who guards the entrance and receives broad smile.

numa das ruas próximas do Spice Bazaar
close to Spice Bazaar

 

Um pouco por toda a cidade encontra-se a venda ambulante de pão, em forma de anel coberto por sementes de sésamo. Junto aos Bazares encontram-se também vendedores que pelas ruas apregoam o Sumit
All over the place is possible to find people selling the turkish traditional bread, the sumit, with ring shape and covered by sesame seeds.

 

Istanbul bazares
Istanbul bazares

 

nas ruas adjacentes do Spice Bazaar estende-se uma sucessão de lojas dos mais variados produtos, onde apesar da azáfama da multidão que entope as estreitas ruas há sempre tempo para descanso enquanto os clientes não aparecem
the Bazaar adjacent streets extends a succession of shops, where despite de bustle of the crowd that clogs the narrow streets, there is always time for rest while waiting for customers

 

Perto do Spice Bazaar
close to one of the entrance of the Spice Bazaar

 

junto à entrada do Spice Bazaar
near the  Spice Bazaar

 

Na gastronomia Turca o queijo é presença constante, e os mercados oferecem uma grande variedade
The cheese has a mandatory presence in Turkish gastronomy, and the markets offer a big variety

 

Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii),
Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii)

 

Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii),
Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii)

 

Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii),
Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii)

 

vista do telhado do Büyük Valide Han sobre Sultanahmet
Roof top of the  Büyük Valide Han building that offer a great view overs Sultanahmet

 

Interior do Büyük Valide Han
Inside the Büyük Valide Han

 

Vista do Büyük Valide Han sobre Galata e Beyoglu
View over Galata e Beyoglu from Büyük Valide Han roof top

 

Yeni Çami, Old Mosque em Eminonu
Yeni Çami, Old Mosque, in Eminonu

Istanbul… the cosmopolitan Galata and Beyoglu

Galata neighborhood which nestles around the famous tower, sliding down the slope, is perhaps the heart of the bohemian life of the city in its most European and cosmopolitan version with cafes, terraces, bookstores, musical instruments shops, art galleries… one more alternative and modern environment that sometimes makes us forget that we are in a Turkey. Even the architecture of the buildings, in a neoclassical style, elegant facades, along orthogonal grid of lanes brings us to the streets of Paris

In Beyoglu district also known as Pera, that slide down the hill until reach the Bosphourus waters, also breathes this modern environment, where the presence of women with head cover by scarf isn’t so evident, and where along the Istiklal Caddesi. This street is always crowded with people, day and night, succeeding shops and clothing stores of international brands, restaurants and stunning candy stores, a specialty of the rich Turkish cuisine. Occasionally Istikal Caddesi is crossed by an old style tram that takes us to the beginning of the last century, in a contrast with the modern atmosphere.

Beyoglu is also the center of nightlife where many cafes, which occupy the side streets, turns into bars with the fall of the day.

Galata
Shoe polisher in one back street close to Galata Tower
Beyoglu
Beyoglu
uma das especialidade em termos de doces é o Sütlaç, uma espécie de pudim à base de arroz e leite que é cozinhado no forma, mas cujo sabor nos remete para o português arroz-doce. Em Galata foi possivel encontrar um vendedor ambulante de um delicioso Sütlaç coberto de pistácio moído
Sütlaç, is a kind of rice pudim, a very popular desert that was possible to fin in one of the streets of Galata
Beyoglu
Beyoglu
Galata
Galata

 

Galata
Galata

 

İstiklal Caddesi
İstiklal Caddesi

 

Karakoy Gulluoglu, loja especializada em baklava, em Beyoğlu, e que é uma referencia na cidade de Istanbul
Karakoy Gulluoglu, loja especializada em baklava, em Beyoğlu, e que é uma referencia na cidade de Istanbul

Istanbul a city between two continents

A city divided between two continents, between two cultures, between two ways of being, which grew up facing the Bosphorus, the natural channel that connects two inland seas: at north the Black one, at south the Marmara. Constantly crossed by numerous ferryboats and cargo ships, the Bosphorus, is easily confused with a river, but the smell of the sea that the gentle breeze drag, quickly takes us to its salty nature.

Although Ankara have stolen in the 20s the status of capital of Turkey, by the hand of Atatürk “father of the Turks”, Istanbul remains the historical and cultural capital, which currently brings together more than 17 million people, showing up modern and cosmopolitan, while maintaining the identity of Turkish culture that lives together with the weight of Muslim traditions.

It can be said that the city center is located on the European side of the Bosporus, where a sea inlet called Golden Horn in Turkish Haliç, divides the two parts of the city. On the north side lie the more European and cosmopolitan areas of Istanbul which brings out the districts of Galata and Beyoglu. Istiklal Caddesi a popular street, that goes from Galata to Taksim Square, stage of some episodes of the 2013 Arab Spring.

The south side of the Golden Horn, in the oldest part of the city dominate the mosques and Orthodox churches whose domes and minarets towering over the compact houses, are the symbol of the city; it is where are located the traditional markets and the Topkapi Palace, which was the residence of sultans of the Ottoman Empire.

Connecting the two sides of the European part of the city, the Galata Bridge, which was built in the mid-ninth century and has since undergone several reconstructions, currently going in the fifth version. In the evenings, especially on weekends, throughout the wide side walks, hundreds of men spending their time fishing while watching the parade of ferry boats that constantly cross the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus, connecting several city points and literally linking Europe to Asia.

The Asian side of the Bosporus is a more modern city, with some palaces and mosques but where the most attractive is the promenade Harem Sahil Yolu, which extends towards the south from the Üsküdar ferryboats terminal, that attracts hundreds of people to savor a tea, coffee or even a simple meal, overlooking the Marmara Sea, waiting for the spectacle of the sun set, which brings out the domes and minarets of the mosques on the European side of city.

Istanbul seduces.

Istanbul
Istanbul

 

Ponte Galata
Galata Bridge

 

Eminonu
Eminonu

 

Istanbul visto do Büyük Valide Han Istanbul from the roof top of Büyük Valide Han
Istanbul from the roof top of Büyük Valide Han

 

Eminonu
Eminonu

 

Harem Sahil Yolu
Harem Sahil Yolu

 

Maiden's Tower j
Maiden’s Tower from the Harem Sahil Yolu promenade

 

Isntanbul_Galata Bridge_DSC_9333
Galata Bridge

 

Istanbul
Istanbul

 

Bósforo
Bosphorus Canal

 

Mustafa Kemal Atatürk
Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

 

Istanbul
Istanbul

 

Arriving:

For those arriving at the main airport, Istanbul Ataturk Airport, there is a metro station that connects the city center.

For arrivals to Sabiha Gökçen Airport, focused more on the low-cost companies, the best option is the company’s bus service Havatas a shuttle service connecting the airport to Beşiktaş or Taksim square, running daily from 4am to 1am. These buses are just outside the airport’s main gate, across the street, offering a direct and comfortable connection to enter the city.

The ticket price is 14 TL, and you can exchange money in the airport or get one of the many existing ATMs.

The trip to Taksim takes about 90 minutes, depending on traffic.

Havastas bus company
Havastas bus company

Accommodation:

There are hundreds of hotels and hostel for the city but prices go too close to any European city.

The choice fell to Chillout Hostel in Beyoglu, situated in a plane perpendicular to İstiklal Caddesi, between Galata Tower and Taksim Square, which not only have attractive prices as it is situated within a reasonable distance to be done walking from the Taksim square , where finishes the connecting bus to Istanbul Sabiha Gökçen Airport.

Istambul: Chillout Hostel

Balyoz Sk. No:3, Beyoglu

Turkey

+90 212 249 4784

//www.chillouthostelistanbul.com/

 

Chillout Hostel, Beyuglu
Chillout Hostel, Beyuglu

 

Chillout Hostel
Chillout Hostel

 

Were to eat:

Like any big city, Istanbul offers many options of course dominated the Turkish food, were the kebab is king, but also lots international food restaurants especially in Beyoglu and Galata area.

Cafes often offer light meals and snacks typical of Turkish cuisine, such as pide, borek, gozleme, etc …

To bridge any hunger tip that may arise, exist all over the side street of simit sellers, a typical ring-shaped bread covered in sesame seed.

In terms of food, Istanbul is quite tempting!

 

Baklava numa das sedutoras lojas de doces que se encontram um pouco por toda a cidade
Baklava

 

Karakoy Gulluoglu, loja especializada em baklava, em Beyoğlu, e que é uma referencia na cidade de Istanbul
Karakoy Gulluoglu, at Beyoğlu, famous for Braklava

 

How to move:

It is unanimous that the system of Istanbul transport is modern and efficient, both in terms of buses, electric, metro and especially the ferry boats to the hundreds cross the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus channel, connecting the side the two European banks and these Asian side of the city to. However, this does not mean that occur, major road congestion that characterize peak hours.

Essential, even for those who stay only for a few days in the city, is to acquire the Istanbul Kart, a card that not only offers travel discounts on sea crossings, as it is essential to circulate in the underground network, electric, cable cars and buses, offering discount transfers between the means of transport in a 2 hour period.

Istanbul Kart: It costs 10 TL; can be loaded with 5, 10, 20 or 50 TL, in vending machines (with instructions also in English) at the entrance of boats ferry stations and stores, kiosks and tobacconists are almost everywhere in the city.

Istanbul Kart
Istanbul Kart

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