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Stepping Out Of Babylon

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Kathmandu

Streets of Kathmandu

The streets of Kathmandu, despite the intense noise and the heavy pollution, that can create a strong negative impact on new visitors, always have something new and unexpected to offer.

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The crowded streets gain a magic atmosphere with the light of the sunset, lightning up hidden corners and people’s faces. Old buildings facades standing out from the urban landscape, where the dust creates an almost permanent veil.
The morning markets, that daily fills up squares and narrow streets, gain a special atmosphere as soon as the first sun rays crawl over the dense and compact mass of buildings, giving a new intensity to the colors and bringing a new perspective to the scenery.

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Walking along the mazy streets of the old part of Kathmandu, that get unbelievably crowded at dusk, can reveal a tough challenge. But at the same time it can reveal new routines of the daily life of the city… from the “puja” rituals to the washing of the clothes, from religious processions to the movement of the porters, from the fruits and vegetable hawkers to the marigold garland makers.

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Even though we have passed countless times along the same street, bend the same corner, walk along the same path and pass by the same “stupa”… Kathmandu always has something that surprises us: a new light that changes familiar images, a new detail in the wood carving of a door, a new brightness that makes a normal color stand out, a smile filled with curiosity from a young face, the serious gaze of those who have seen many things, or just a new scent of a warm snack just coming out of a pan full of oil.

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Streets of Kathmandu
Streets of Kathmandu

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Streets of Kathmandu
Streets of Kathmandu

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Streets of Kathmandu
Streets of Kathmandu

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Streets of Kathmandu
Streets of Kathmandu

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Streets of Kathmandu
Streets of Kathmandu

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Streets of Kathmandu
Streets of Kathmandu

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Streets of Kathmandu
Streets of Kathmandu

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Streets of Kathmandu
Streets of Kathmandu

 

Kathmandu: a guide to snacks and street-food

 

… In search of the best dal bhat in Kathmandu

 

 

Namo Buddha… in search of tranquility

Sometimes the intense pace of Kathmandu city, with its constant traffic, horns, polluted and dusty air, make for a getaway in search of a healthy atmosphere and a quieter environment.

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Namo Buddha Stupa
Namo Buddha Stupa

The location of Kathmandu, surrounded by mountains, offers several options for a day trip in search of nature, green landscapes, mountains, and clean air… a place where the birds chirping and singing overlap the noise caused by human beings, such as happens in the overpopulated Kathmandu. Namo Buddha is one of these discrete paradises situated a few kilometers from the capital where it dominates the Tibetan culture and religion, being one of the main places of Buddhist pilgrimage in Nepal, together with the stupas of Boudha and Swayambhunath.

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Namo Buddha Stupa
Namo Buddha Stupa

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Away from Namo Buddha Stupa to Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery
Away from Namo Buddha Stupa to Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery

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The stupa houses the relics of a prince who, according to tradition, offered his blood and body as food to a starving tiger as an act of compassion. Apart from the religious significance, the modest stupa does not make a big impression, with the place being surrounded by small restaurants and souvenir shops.

But up the hill, through a dense grove of trees along a path decorated with prayer flags, you reach the top of the hill, from where you can see the Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery.The monastery is of recent construction, and its architecture does not impress, but the interior of the vast temple, with ceiling and walls decorated with delicate Buddhist paintings create a sacred ambiance.

In the various buildings that are part of the monastery are other smaller temples, with elaborate statues of Buddha and the goddess Tara.

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Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery
Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery

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Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery
Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery

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Nearby Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery some temples evoking the tradition of the prince that gave is blood and is live to save a tiger
Nearby Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery some temples evoking the tradition of the prince that gave is blood and is live to save a tiger

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Around Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery
Around Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery

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There is an atmosphere of calm and tranquility, promoted by the sacred environment of the monastery and the intense green forest that frames the place, crowned by the snow white that covers the mountains of the Annapurna range.

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Note: photos inside the temple arte not allowed

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Where to sleep in Namo Buddha:

Namo Buddha is located 40 kilometers from the center of Kathmandu, about two hours away, so it can be visited in one morning. It is advisable to get out of Kathmandu early, around 7 a.m., to avoid the traffic jam.

But in the area, within walking distance, there are a few resorts.

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Where to eat in Namo Buddha:

Around the stupa of Namo Buddha, there are several restaurants aimed to pilgrims, who also sell religious articles and incense but that are not inviting for more than a chai.

Along the road where the bus stops, there are three eateries that serve tea and meals, but definitively Banepa offers better options in terms of food.

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Transportation to Namo Buddha:

There are no direct buses from Kathmandu to Namo Buddha.

You need to catch a bus at Ratna Park to Banepa first (depart with high frequency).

At the bus terminal of Banepa (bus park), there are buses that pass through Namo Buddha; just ask for Namo Buddha from the various buses that are parked in the bus park.

The bus stops very close to the stupa. After the stupa is about 10 to 15 minutes walk to the monastery.

  • bus Kathmandu to Banepa: 1 hour, 45 rupees
  • Benepa to Namo Buddha bus: 1 hour, 60 rupees

The bus frequency from Namo Buddha to Banepa is not high, so you may have to wait an hour for the next bus… or get a ride from a truck, but pay attention: being faster is more expensive than the bus.

The road between Kathmandu and Banepa is in good condition and the trip is reasonably comfortable, on a flat route. But from Banepa to Namo Buddha the road is steep and winding, unpaved and very deteriorated, making this last stage uncomfortable and tiring.

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Sharing is caring… Stepping Out Of Babylon remains free (and without advertisement). It takes me hundreds of hours to research, organize and write… and thousands of euros to sustain.

As I put all my love, effort and ‘free time’ in this project I would love to continue my journey providing all the information to make your trip easier and cheaper… or just inspire you with nice texts and good photos.

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