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Border Crossing

How to get a Thai visa in Vientiane… from Chiang Mai

The so-called “visa run” is a classic for travels that choose to stay for a long time in Thailand. But let’s start with what is a visa run?? Running for a visa? More or less!!! Means go to a nearby country, cross to border and come back to Thailand again, preferentially in the same day!!

Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Malaysia are the neighboring countries, but being in the north of Thailand, the easiest way to get a new 60 days tourist visa is going to Vientiane, the capital of the Lao People’s Democratic Republic

Mae Sai, in Myanmar, is also a popular option but crossing by land only give you 15 days visa (NOTE: since 31st December 2016, you can get 30 days tourist visa, on arrival, for free).

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Step by step… time and costs:

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Day 1: from Chiang Mai to Thai Consulate in Vientiane

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  • Bus from Chiang Mai to Udon Thani: 545 baht

The best price is from Phetprasert company (good and comfortable buses), that has several buses leaving during the day, but the best option is the on that departure at 7.30 pm, from Terminal 2 of Arcade Bus Station, otherwise you’ll arrive unnecessarily early to the border.

A VIP bus can cost around 800 bahts and is better to buy the ticket in one of the counters of the Terminal 3.

If you don’t carry much luggage you can go on foot from the old town to the Arcade Bus Station, and it will take you between around 40 minutes walking.

  • The bus departure at 30 pm and arrive to Udon Thani around 6.30 am. The bus drops the passengers in from of the City Plaza, a modern mall. Watch out because this is not the last stop.
  • After the bus leave, you’ll see on the other side of the street a kiosk (with Van Station sign) where you can buy a ticket for the mini-van that take you to the border: Nong Khai

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Mini-van kiosk at Udon Thani, in front of Central Plaza
Mini-van kiosk at Udon Thani, in front of Central Plaza

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The mini-van ticket from Udon Thani to Nong Khai cost 50 baht. It takes 1.5 hours and drops you at the Immigration area.

  • Thai Immigration at Nong Khai: basically you need to wait on the line and show the passport and the departure card.

If you overstay in Thailand you need to line on the counter on the left and pay the fee (500 baht a day).

  • After you get the stamp you´ll find a desk outside the room that sells the tickets to a bus that cross the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge over the Mekong. Apparently crossing the bridge on foot is not allowed!

The bus ticket cost 20 baht, and the trip takes about 10 minutes. The bus departure when is full.

The bus will drop you just at the Thanaleng border crossing and you just need to walk a few meters to the Lao Immigration.

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Crossing the Thai-Lao friendship bridge
Crossing the Thai-Lao friendship bridge

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  • Lao Immigration procedures: when you get off the bus you’ll see a counter on your left side, where you can find the immigration form.

For the Lao visa you need:

  • 1 passport photo,
  • Immigration form,
  • 35 USD (you can pay in baht – 1500 baht – but it will be more expensive). The fee depends on from your country but most of the Europeans countries pay the same. The French citizens pay 30 USD. Check your situation on line.

After you present the document and pay the visa fee (everything in the same counter) you need to wait a few minutes. Every now and then the third window of the counter will open and your name will be called and the passport gave back to you, with a 30 days visa, single entry. A transit visa will cost you the same and will give you more trouble.

Note: the Lao Immigration works from 8 am to 4 pm, so if you cross the border out of this schedule, no matter in which way, you need to pay 1 USD extra.

  • As soon you cross the border gate, mini-van drivers that take you to Vientiane or directly to the Thai embassy approach you. You need to wait until there at least 3 passengers.

The mini-van trip cost you 25.000 kip or 100 baht (the driver will be happy to receive baht… so don’t rush to exchange money at the border and just wait to arrive at the Vientiane to get a better rate!!!) the trip takes around 30 minutes.

  • If your trip to Laos is just to get the visa, so is better go directly to the embassy, as it closes at noon.

Consular Section: Monday to Friday

08.30 – 12.00: Application for Visa

13.00 – 15.00: Distribution of Passports with visa

Close on Saturday and Sunday (check also Thai and Lao holidays //vientiane.thaiembassy.org/en/embassy/calendar.php)

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  • Procedures at Thai Embassy in Laos:

For the Thai visa you’ll need:

  • 2 passport photos
  • a copy of the last Thai visa and also the page with the stamp of entry in the country
  • a copy of the Lao visa

At the Consulate the things are a bit chaotic and busy.

As you cross the Consulate Gate you must go first to the building on your left where you can ask for the application form, and where you can also take the copies of your passport: 20 baht each (you can pay baht or kip).

Inside this building there are some desks where a few consular officials can help you to fill the forms and glue the photos… you must pay 4.000 kip for this service, but filing the form has no big issues and you can save time and money doing it by yourself!!!

Note: you must write an address of a place or the guest house where you plan to stay in Thailand… don’t need to make proof of any reservation but you must provide a valid name and an address.

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Note: you must write an address of a place or the guest house where you plan to stay in Thailand... don’t need to make proof of any reservation but you must provide a valid name and an address.
Note: you must write an address of a place or the guest house where you plan to stay in Thailand… don’t need to make proof of any reservation but you must provide a valid name and an address.

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With all this paper stuff ready you need now to join the long queue that zig-zag under the shed, that you see as you come out of the building. This part is fast, as is just the time need to the consular officials check your documents, and give you a number, that you’ll use next day to pick the passport with the new visa stamp, for 60 days with a single entry.

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Watch out: when you come off the mini-van, maybe someone forward you to one of the improvised offices where someone fill the form for you, make the copies and arrange everything for you (4.000 kips), even with the promise that paying an extra you can get the visa on the same day… don’t trust in this touts! The consular officials reject the forms that they have… and then you need to do it by yourself inside de consular services.

Watch out: when you come off the mini-van, maybe someone forward you to one of the improvised offices where someone fill the form for you, make the copies and arrange everything for you (4.000 kips), even with the promise that paying an extra you can get the visa on the same day... don’t trust in this touts! The consular officials reject the forms that they have... and then you need to do it by yourself inside de consular services.
Watch out: when you come off the mini-van, maybe someone forward you to one of the improvised offices where someone fill the form for you, make the copies and arrange everything for you (4.000 kips), even with the promise that paying an extra you can get the visa on the same day… don’t trust in this touts! The consular officials reject the forms that they have… and then you need to do it by yourself inside de consular services.

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Exceptionally, from 1st of December 2016 until 28th of February 2017, the 60 days tourist visa is free. //vientiane.thaiembassy.org/en/news/announce/detail.php?ID=362

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Now that you have you have the ticket with the number is time to find a guesthouse, have rest and some food in the sleepy Vientiane.

You can reach the center of the city on foot, which that take around 40 minutes walking slowly.

In Vientiane, you can get a bed dorm for 40.000 kips (Garden Hostel, Sihome), get street food for 10.000 kips and watch the time pass by near the Mekong waters.

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Day 2: from the Thai Consulate in Vientiane to Chiang Mai

  • On the next day, after 1 pm you can go the embassy to collect your passport. The officer behind the counter will calls people by the ticket number given to you the day before. But don’t worry, is ok if you arrive later (2 pm is a good time), as this way you just need to go to the counter and show your recipe, no matter if it already call your number. This is super fast.
  • Outside de Consulate the mini-van driver will be waiting to take the foreigners back to the Thai border. Again you can pay in baht or kip the mini-van ride: 100 baht.
  • Arriving at the Lao Immigration you must get your passport stamped.
  • Take the bus to cross the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge: 20 baht
  • Fill the arriving/departure card and get your passport stamped with the day that you must leave the country.
  • After the Thai Immigration procedures, you must walk out the border crossing area, until you pass under a big gate decorated in gold. Many taxi and tuk-tuk drivers will approach you to take you to Nong Khai (if you are going to the south, like Bangkok) or Udon Thani if you are going back to Chiang Mai, for a big amount of money. Ignore them!

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Keep walking a bit further after the gate and you’ll see a few tuk-tuk line up on your left (if you arrive at a 7 eleven, you walk too much), behind them is the office of the mini-van company that takes you to Udon Thani for the just 50 baht! Just need to wait a bit, as the mini-vans run every hour.

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Thai border at Nong Khai, after passing under this gate you'll fin the mini-van to Udon Thani and Nong Khai Bus Station
Thai border at Nong Khai, after passing under this gate you’ll fin the mini-van to Udon Thani and Nong Khai Bus Station

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office of Mini-van from Nong Khai to Udon Thani
office of Mini-van from Nong Khai to Udon Thani

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Schedule of the mini-van that link Nong Khai border with Nong Khai Bus Terminal and Udon Thani Bus terminal... you dont need to hire one of the expensive taxis or tuk-tuks
Schedule of the mini-van that link Nong Khai border with Nong Khai Bus Terminal and Udon Thani Bus terminal… you dont need to hire one of the expensive taxis or tuk-tuks

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  • Probably you’ll arrive in Udon Thani around 5 pm. At Udon Thani Bus Terminal you need to find the counter that sells tickets to Chiang Mai… the buses departure at:

17.45, 18.45 and 20.45h.

Depending on the demanding you may have the lucky to get a ticket for the first bus… otherwise just need to wait a bit for the next one. There a nice café in the opposite of the entrance of the bus terminal or you can enjoy the air-conditioner of the Central Plaza, a mall very close by.

The bus will pick you at the entrance of the Central Plaza, at the same place where they drop you in the morning of the day before…. just wait there patiently because the bus can arrive a bit later (I wait 30 minutes)…. but no worry because at the kiosk in front (van Station) there a bus company official that can help you.

The bus arrives at Chiang Mai in the next morning, 11 hours later.

And here you are again in Thailand for a couple of more months… and you can even extend this visa for more 30 days!!!!!

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Schedule of the bus from Udon Thani to Chiang Mai
Schedule of the bus from Udon Thani to Chiang Mai

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Costs of the visa run:

Transportation: 1430 baht (considering not using tuk-tuk in Vientiane)

Sleep: 40.000 kip (dorm with breakfast) (approx. 175 baht)

(The cots of the food in Vientiane are not included as you send more or less the same as in Chiang Mai).

So you will spend minimum 1600 baht plus the 35 USD of the Lao visa.

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Bus tickets form Chiang Mai to Udon Thani
Bus tickets form Chiang Mai to Udon Thani

How to cross the border Sunauli – Belahiya (India/Nepal)

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India and Nepal have several border crossings open to foreigners. The most popular although is the Sonauli (India) – Belahiya (Nepal), due to its location, more or less in the middle of the south Nepal border, and maybe the shortest route to reach Kathmandu by land. Also, the location of this border cross, between Varanasi and Kathmandu or Pokhara, make this desolated and unfriendly place a choice for those who want to travel by land.

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But for those traveling in Northeast India, like Sikkim, Bengal and the so-called North-eastern states (Assam, Nagaland, Meghalaya, Arunachal Pradesh, etc…) the border Panitanki (India) – Kakarbitta (Nepal) located on the east side of Nepal is the best option. For more details about this border crossing check my posts about “Border Crossing” on Tips/Dicas de Viagem category.

The closest train station from the Sonauli – Belahiya border is Gorakhpur, with easy connection with Delhi and Varanasi. Gorakhpur is far from being a charming or appealing place, so try to arrange things in order to avoid one night there.

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Just when you come out from the train station, you just need to ignore all the tuk-tuk drivers that will surround you and walk straight forward until the main road. Just on the other side, near crossroad with a statue with a guy on a horse, you’ll see a few buses stop… not a bus terminal or even a bus stand… just a few buses along the road. Try to ask the drivers about one that goes to Sonauli; usually, it stops on the right corner (if you have the trains station on your back).

The bus departure more or less every hour, or even before if it’s full. The buses run all day, starting around 6 am, until evening.

In case that you arrive late, close to evening time, is advisable to sleep in Gorakhpur, and make the trip to Sonauli next morning, as there are not many infrastructures in Sonauli, and the place itself in “not a place to stay”!!! Anyway, the Sonauli – Belahiya border is open 24 hours.

The bus from Gorakhpur to Sonauli, will take about 1.5 hours.

From the bus stand until the Indian Immigration Office is about 600 meters that will take around 10 minutes to walk along a dusty or muddy road (depending the weather) between trucks. Some people prefer to hire a cycle-rickshaw but it just worth if you travel with lots of luggage.

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Indian Immigration Office at Sunauli. India
Indian Immigration Office at Sunauli. India

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At the Indian Immigration Office you need to fill a form and give it back with your passport to the staff that usually is very friendly. The office is very small and sometimes you need to stay outside while an officer collects the passports and give them back after stamped. Always check if you have the exit stamp before leaving any country!

Don’t be surprised if you see many people crossing the border without passing by the Immigration Office, as the Nepal and Indian citizens don’t need a visa or even a passport to cross any border between India and Nepal.

After this, you keep walking along the same road and will see a big gate that represents the border India – Nepal. Is possible that an officer will ask for your passport, but sometimes they are more focus in controlling local people because of the smuggling than the tourists.

After the gate you walk a few more meters and will see, on the right side, a small house with a kind of garden where is the Nepal Immigration Office. There you need to need to fill a form, give a photo, show the passport and pay the visa fee according to the length of your stay. Usually it will not take more than 10 minutes.

You will be welcomed with a friendly smile and a proud “welcome to Nepal!”.

Nepal has Visa on Arrival, so to get your visa you need:

  • passport
  • 1 photo
  • fill a couple of forms
  • …and money to pay the visa fee. You can pay in dollars (USD) or Indian rupees (INR). Must be played in cash. There’s neither ATM or Exchange shop nearby, so be prepared. In the India side you can exchange money. If you pay in dollars is better to bring the exact amount, as change isn’t always available. If you pay in euros you’re doing a bad deal as the 25$ are automatically converted in 25€!

The Nepal visa can be (September 2016):

  • 15 days: 25 USD
  • 30 days: 40 USD or 2700 INR
  • 90 days: 100 USD

At the Nepal side of the border you’ll see a few exchange money shops. From my experience the rates are quite alright.

Probably some will ask if you need a bus to Pokhara or Kathmandu. This maybe is not the beast deal that you can have but save you from walking (or take a bus) to the bus terminal (also called Bhairahawa Bus Park).

From Belahiya there are also buses to Lumbini and Chitwan.

 

Note about Nepal Visa Fees:

If you are planning to stay in Nepal for 2 months is better to apply for the 3 months visa. Otherwise, you pay 40$ for the first 30 days and then need to extend your visa for more 30 days… so as extending the visa will cost your 2$ a day, an extra month will be 60$… that in total is the same cost of the 90 days visa…. and you save yourself a few hours at the Immigration Office in Kathmandu or Pokhara.

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Nepal Visa Fees
Nepal Visa Fees

Extend Nepal Visa:

To extend you Nepal Visa, you can do it in Kathmandu or Pokhara.

In Pokhara usually there are fewer people and you can get you new stamp quickly. At Katmandu is always more busier and confuse. But in both places you find helpful staff.

Not that the maximum number of days that you can stay in Nepal is 150 a year.

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How to go from Sonauli-Belahiya to Kathmandu by bus:

Just after crossing the border you arrive at Belahiya, the first populated place that you cannot even call a village, but where you can find (after the Immigration Office), also on the right side of the road, a few travel agencies that sell bus tickets to Pokhara and Kathmandu. Usually there are always a few buses parked in a dusty/muddy ground that works like a bus terminal, called Belhiya Bus Park.

The soon you arrive more are the chances to have a bus to your destination, as most of the buses departure in the morning. Still is possible to catch a bus to Kathmandu around 2 p.m. There are also buses that departure at the end of the afternoon, but the information given by these travel agencies are not clear. But watch out: the bus trip to Kathmandu will take more than 8 hours that the ticket seller said… probably 10 hours depending on the traffic at Kathmandu, so if you arrive late to the border be prepared to arrive at Kathmandu in the evening!!!

Sometimes I felt that these private bus companies are taking advantage of people that just arrive and are not yet familiarized with the currency and prices, and I already notice that the bus ticket from Kathmandu to Belahiya is cheaper than the opposit way.

There aren’t public buses in Nepal, except a few local buses in Kathmandu. But if you want to avoid an overcharge ticket at the border (we are talking something about 200 rupees more, more or less 2$) you can walk or take a taxi to the Bhairahawa Bus Park around 7 km further along the main road and from there you have more bus companies but I couldn’t get a proper schedule of the buses to Kathmandu.

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Where to eat at Sonauli-Belahiya:

Don’t try to eat at Sonauli. It will be difficult to find an inviting place and even if you choose one dhaba (road side restaurant), possible your meal will be disturbed by may touts trying to “help” you crossing the border or changing money.

If you really need a meal is better to wait until cross the border to Nepal side (Belahiya), that has a much quieter and friendly environment. With a short walk you can see the few places available, and it can be an option for a quick meal, but if you look for something more inviting you need to take a local bus (walk by the main road until you find the Bus Terminal on your right side) and go to the nearby village Siddharthanagar (also called Bhairawa or Bahirahawa).

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Best train from Varanasi to Gorakhpur:

If you are traveling from Varanasi to Nepal, you can make the all trip by bus (there are even bus services from Varanasi to Kathmandu, that I don’t recommend) or by train. The train is the most comfortable option as it allow you to have a reasonable night of sleep and arrive at Gorakhpur early in the morning, with plenty of time to take the bus the Sonaluli-Belahiya border, and with strong chances to reach Kathmandu in the same day… but in the evening!

From Varanasi all the trains that arrive in Gorakhpur in the morning leave late in the evening, so avoid to choose a train that departure from Mugah Sarai, as this station is very far out from the city, and in the evening is not recommended for women or solo travelers. check my previous post:  //steppingoutofbabylon.com/en/2016/06/how-to-go-from-varanasi-to-mugal-sarai-train-station/

For me the best option was the night train that departure from Varanasi Junction (easily reach buy tuk-tuk even during the night, but I recommend to arranje it with the help of the guesthouse staff): Train number 15003 (Chauri Chaura Express) that departure at 00:40 and arrive to Gorakhpur (last stop) at 6.50 a.m… sometimes with a bit of delay!!!

//steppingoutofbabylon.com/en/2016/06/how-to-go-from-varanasi-to-mugal-sarai-train-station/

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Train ticket from Varanasi to Gorakhpur
Train ticket from Varanasi to Gorakhpur

How to cross the border Panitanki – Kakarbhitta (India/Nepal)

India and Nepal have several border crossings open to foreigners. The most popular although is the Sonauli-Belahiya, due to it location, more or less in the middle of the south Nepal border, and maybe the shortest rout to reach Kathmandu by land. Also the location between Varanasi and Kathmandu or Pokhara, make this desolated and unfriendly place a choice for those how want to travel by land. For more details about Sonauli-Belahiya border crossing check my previous posts. //steppingoutofbabylon.com/en/2016/09/how-to-cross-the-border-sunauli-belahiya-india-nepal/

But for those traveling in north east India, like Sikkim, Bengal and the so-called North-eastern states (Assam, Nagaland, Megahlaya, Arunachal Pradesh, etc…) the border Panitanki (India) – Kakarbhitta (Nepal) located on the east side of Nepal is the best option.

Being less popular is far more pleasant the Sonauli-Belahiya, but if you destination is Kathmandu you have to face a 16 hours bus trip.

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The Panitanki – Kakarbhitta border is open 24 hours on the India side, and from the Nepal side from 6 am to 7 pm.

(Aug 2017 update: the border is open 24 hours on the Nepali side. The gates are open from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.)

(Feb 2019 update: the border is open until 10 p.m on both sides)

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At Panitanki just ask to local people “Nepal” and everyone knows where the border is. From here you can walk until Indian Immigration Office. Not more than 10 minutes walking. The road as asphalt but you must do your walk with truck passing close to you. So if you prefer avoid some sweat and dust you can arrange the entire trip until Nepali side with one of the many cycle rickshaws.

The Panitanki – Kakarbhitta border is marked by a river, and the bridge connection the two sides is a kind of “no mans land”. The Indian Immigration Office is a few meters before the bridge, in a small alley on your left side. Anyway if you miss it, the guards near the gate will call you and show you the way.

At the Indian Immigration Office, you show your passport and in less than 2 minutes you have your exit stamp.

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Indian Immigration Office. Panitanki
way to the Indian Immigration Office. Panitanki

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Indian Immigration Office. Panitanki
Indian Immigration Office. Panitanki

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From here you need to cross the bridge. I have made it on foot, and I was not the only one, but if your luggage is heavy or if you are caring many items maybe is better to hire a rickshaws. Anyway walking you have more time to enjoy the view of the river and surroundings that with the heat of April are almost dry, but that after the monsoon rain must offer a pleasant view. The walk make me sweat and regret not had taken a rickshaw, but at the same time offer me lots of smiles from the local people and children waving… not many foreigners cross this point, and even less do it on foot. And above all, crossing a border on foot has always a special meaning… a kind of symbolic entrance in a country… not with the easiness and apparatus of the airports but with a humbleness necessary to a traveler.

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Indian side of the Panitanki Panitanki-Kakarbitta border
Indian side of the Panitanki-Kakarbitta border

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bridge at Panitanki-Kakarbitta border
bridge at Panitanki-Kakarbitta border

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arrivnig to Nepal border. Panitanki-Kakarbitta border
arriving to Kakarbitta, Nepal side of Panitanki-Kakarbitta border

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After crossing the bridge you are at Nepal, more properly Kakarbitta. Walking a few meters more you’ll on the right side a ramp that lead you to a gate. Behind the gate is the building of the Nepali Immigration Office. As the both Nepali and Indian don’t need immigration formalities to cross the border, this office is almost empty all day. Nepal has Visa on Arrival, so to get your visa you need:

  • passport
  • 1 photo
  • fill a couple of forms that they will give you there
  • …and money to pay the visa fee. You can pay in dollars (USD) or Indian rupees (INR). Must be played in cash. There is no ATM or Exchange shop nearby, so be prepared. In the India side you can exchange money. If you pay in dollars is better bring the exact amount, as change isn’t always available.

 

The Nepal visa can be (April 2016):

  • 15 days: 25 USD
  • 30 days: 40 USD or 2700 INR
  • 90 days: 100 USD

The staff at the Nepal Immigration office is very nice and provides a lot of information, especially about schedules and prices for the different kinds of buses. With the help of Nepali officers I could easily avoid touts that always come to try to push you to one of their buses. They are annoying but not persistent.

After have your stamp in the passport, that will take about 5 minutes, you just walk right until you cross a big gate that symbolically mark the entrance in Nepal.

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Panitanki-Kakarbitta border crossing_Kakarbitta Nepal Immigration Office_DSC_9177
Nepal Immigration office at Kakarbitta. Panitanki-Kakarbitta border

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Panitanki-Kakarbitta border crossing_Kakarbitta_DSC_9178
Gate that marks Nepali border. The bus terminal in just a few meter further, on the right side. Kakarbitta

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From here you walk a few meters and on your start to see a few shops, keep walking until a corner, where bus tickets are sold. There are several shops, but in this one you are dealing directly with the bus company and avoid extra fees from intermediaries and travel agencies. The shop is open to the street, with the counter surrender by windows. The prices are clearly written on the window. The bus terminal is just in front.

From Kakarbitta there are direct buses to the main nepali cities: Kathmandu, Jonakpur, Biratnagar, Itahari, etc…

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ticket counter fot the buses from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu, at the Kakarbitta bus terminal, located on the right side just after crossing the border
ticket counter fot the buses from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu, at the Kakarbitta bus terminal, located on the right side just after crossing the border

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How to go from Siliguri (New Jalpaiguri Junction) to Panitaki:

Probably you’ll arrive to Panitanki coming from Sikkim, Darjeeling, Siliguri or New Jalpaiguri.

Siliguri is the closest train station from the Nepali border, but most of the trains stop at is New Jalpaiguri also known as NJP, a more important station. Just in front of New Jalpaiguri train station, you’ll see a few nice blue buses parked that go to Siliguri. From there you need another bus to Panitanki. To avoid this bus transfer you must walk a bit further, to the end of the train station car park, until find a bus, not so nice and modern as the other ones, but that goes direct to Panitanki; it takes about 1 hour to make around 35 km, but it stop many times, including Siliguri. If you arrive during the day, there’s no reason to stop in Siliguri, but is never a good option crossing the border during the night.

Bus ticket New Jalpaiguri (NJP) to Panitanki: 20 INR (Indian rupees) (about 1 hour)

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bus from New Jalpaiguri Junction (in front of the train station) to Panitanki
bus from New Jalpaiguri Junction (in front of the train station) to Panitanki

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How to go from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu by bus:

As there is no railway service in Nepal just remains two options to reach Kathmandu: by plane or by bus.

The plane far from be the best option is terms of time and comfort is out of a backpacker budget, as also out of the spirit of traveling… so the bus remain as the only reasonable option.

There are good bus connections between Kakarbitta (also referred as Kakarvitta) and the capital, with a/c buses depart early in the morning: 4 am, 5 am, 6 am and 7 am, and in the afternoon: 3 pm, 4 pm and 5 pm. Officially the trip is 12 hours… but it took 16 hours, with the last two hours already in the traffic jam of Kathmandu suburbs.

The evening buses arrive to Kathmandu more or less all at the same time, despite the time of the departure, as later the bus departure, les traffic find on the way.

Despite de 16 hours bus journey, the trip is not so hard as imagined, as about 2/3 of the trip is made on the Terai, the flat area in south of Nepal. The last part is the hardest one with the road going up to the mountain, with quiet some curves and bumps that hardly allow you to sleep.

Is strongly advisable to take air-condition bus (a/c bus) not just because of the heat from the south of Nepal during almost all the year, but also because of the dust and the noise. The a/c with the windows locked provides a more pleasant and relax trip… it worth to pay some extra rupies more.

The best buses are from the BIHANI company. Called a/c Delux, are modern, almost new and quiet comfortable, spacious, and the reclining seats, have a support for the legs that provide a almost horizontal position… not a sleeping bus but very confortable. Still your sleep could be disturbed by the music and the movie show on the screen… a kind of Nepali version of Bollywood. The bus stop a coupe of times for food.

ticket fares from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu:

  • Bus “a/c Delux”: 1630 NPR (nepali rupees) (16 hours)
  • bus “delux”: from 809 NPR to 1295 NPR (more or less the same travel time but less comfort)
  • Bus “non delux”: from 668 to 1070 NPR (I strongly discouraged trip in this “normal” buses, only if there’s any other option)

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bus fares from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu
“delux” and “non delux” bus fares from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu at Kakarbitta Bus terminal

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a/c bus fares from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu
a/c bus fares from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu

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From my experience at Neapli road I must say that there are no pleasant or easy bus trips in Nepal. Or is too hot, like almost all the year along the Terai, or at mountain the winding roads, or the drivers are crazy, or there are many stops, or the bus is too crowded, or the road is too dusty, or if it’s raining too muddy. Even the super-delux bus is most of the times old, uncomfortable, dirty and even with broken seat.

This trip from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu, on a a/c bus was far the most pleasant trip that I have ever made in Nepal.

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a/c bus from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu
a/c bus from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu… the best bus that I ever catch in Nepal.

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Bus ticke Kakarbitta to Kathmandu
Bus ticket Kakarbitta to Kathmandu… with the company name and contacts

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Karkarbitta to Kathmandu by mini-van: (update Feb 2019):

As an alternative to these night buses there are mini-vans that take just 11 hours and reach Kathmandu around 5 p.m., very convenient as you can make the trip during the day and arrive in Kathmandu before the sunset. This vans make a kind of short cut, passing through Sindhuli, Dhulikhel and Bhaktapur, before reaching the capital.

Departure time is around 5 a.m.

In the image below you can find the contact of this vans, locally identify as “Hiace”, to get more details about the ticket price and from where they departure.

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contact info of the mini-van from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu
contact info of the mini-van from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu

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Where to eat at Kakarbitta:

At Kakarbitta after having my precious bus ticket was time to relax and have some food.

Kakarbitta is far from be attractive town, but nor sob ad from what we are used to expect form a border town. Is quiet, cross by a main road, dusty but that doesn’t have that much traffic. Around the bus terminal, basically the center of all activity at Kakarbita, there are a few shop, restaurants and few fruit stalls.

On the opposite side of the terminal, that is quieter, line up a few restaurants, also called hotel, with some also with lodging. The choice was for the Sainik Hotel, clean and spacious. The kana (local meal based on rice, dhal, curry, vegetables and pickle) was delicious and served at the traditional brass plate. The meal with two chai was 80 rupees (NPR) with refill. Strongly recommend.

Beyond the food Sainik Hotel also provide nice conditions to wait about 4 hours for my bus: quiet and with smiley and friendly staff.

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Dal bath at Sainik Hotel. Kakarbitta. Nepal
Dal bath at Sainik Hotel. Kakarbitta. Nepal

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Sainik Hotel... good food and a good welcome @ Kakarbitta
Sainik Hotel… good food and a good welcome @ Kakarbitta

How to cross the Border Kedah – Sadao (Malaysia/Thailand)

Crossing the Border Kedah – Sadao…. by bus

It takes time but is easy and without any troubles!

When the bus arrive to the Malaysian immigration you need to get the stamp… it’s a quick and easy process that don’t take more than 5 minutes. The bus driver will help and show you were to go.

After you need to get in the bus again to drive a few meters until you arrive to the Thai immigration services, were the lines are long… this took about 1 hour.

After the immigration process, were you must show your passport and immigration form,  you’ll take the same bus, yet you need to take your bags with you when cross the border.

Note: Before arriving to the Thai Immigration counter you must fill a immigration form, a card with your name, nationality and a few more information, that is staple to your passport after stamped. This should be available at the border.

Although before we reach the border the bus stop in a rest area/restaurant and the driver collect the passports of all passengers, give then back with the immigration form already fill and ask 5 RM for the service. Apparently this is a unnecessary charge as you can do it by yourself, but everybody accepted, included Malaysia and Thai passengers… scam?!?!?!

At this time (Dec.2015) visa on arrival by land is 15 days. The 30 days visa on arrival are only at International Airports.

How to go from Kuala Lumpur to Hat Yai (Thailand)

From TBS Terminal Bersepadu Selatan departure everyday buses from different companies to Hat Yai, crossing the Malaysia-Thai border: Kedah – Sadao.

Schedule: 8.00h, 8.45h, 9.30, 22.00h, 22.30h, 22.45h, 23.00h.

Ticket: between 55 RM (VIP, with 3 seat in a row) and 80 RM (double decker bus).

The bus trip takes 8 hours, but can be more depending of the time at the Malaysia-Thai border

The bus to Hat Yai departure from Terminal Bersepadu Selatan, that everybody knows by TBS. The terminal is located in the south area of Kuala Lumpur and offer good connection with public transportation network at Bandar Tasik Selatan to:

  • Train (KTM Komuter)
  • LRT (Light Train)
  • KLIA train, KL International Airport
Bus ticket from Kuala Lumpur to Hat Yai (Thailand)
Bus ticket from Kuala Lumpur to Hat Yai (Thailand)

Buy bus tickets in Malaysia:

The TBS has a huge number of ticket counters, centralising the tickets selling to all destination and bus companies. Arrive at least half-hour before because the lines are big.

If you travel to popular destinations, especially on Fridays, weekends and holidays is better reserve the ticket in advance.

For reserving ticket you can use on of the many site, and pay with credit card. Most of the web sites don’t charge commission. I use this one: //www.easybook.com/

Once you arrive to the TBS, nearby the ticket counter you’ll find a counter where you can show your reservation and get the ticket.

 

How to cross the Persian Gulf by ferry. From Bandar Abbas to Dubai

After a trip by Iran for nearly a month put the question: where to go out? I entered the north of the country on the border with Turkey, went down towards the south, and the exit from Persian Gulf towards the United Arab Emirates made perfect sense, adding to the advantage of these sites offer attractive flights fares for Southwest Asia, my next destination.

But was hard to get information about how to cross the Gulf by ferry, nor in relation to the port of departure, destination, schedules or prices. In general all the places where I inquired about ferry trips, the information were often inaccurate, confusing or even contradictory.

However detailed information can be found at this site:

//caravanistan.com/transport/persian-gulf-ferry/bandar-abbas-sharjah/

Despite being more focused in transporting people with vehicles have reliable and detailed information.

The ferry company is the Valfarj Shipping Co. //www.valfajr.ir/52/Home.aspx

 

 

Schedule:

  • Bandar Abbas – Sharjah

Monday and Wednesday: 9.00 pm (passenger + cargo: 12 hours)

  • Bandar Lengeh – Dubai

Sundays and Tuesdays: 10:00 pm (passenger + cargo: 5-6 hours)

Saturday, Monday and Wednesday: 11:00 am (only passengers: 4.5 hours)

 

The option was at Bandar Abbas route (to save on yet another trip to Bandar Lengeh) and to enjoy the evening to make the trip coming to the Emirates in the morning.

Prices:

  • Bandar Abbas – Sharjah: 2.700.000 rials
  • Bandar Lengeh – Dubai: 2.700.000 rials

//www.valfajr.ir/156/index.aspx

Ferry boat Ticket: Bandar Abbas-Sharjah
Ferry boat Ticket: Bandar Abbas-Sharjah

 

Where to buy the ticket:

Bala Parvaz Travel Agency in Imam Khomeini Street, Bandar Abbas

The amount has to be paid in rials and is required passport.

No fee or commission is charged.

No need to buy the ticket in advance nor trying to book because the ferry was little more than 20% occupancy.

Bala Parvaz Travel Agency.
Bala Parvaz Travel Agency.

 

Bala Parvaz Travel Agency. Contacts
Bala Parvaz Travel Agency. Contacts

 

Currency exchange:

It is essential to exchange rials before leaving Iran because you can’t do it outside the country!

The option was to Morvarin Exhange, situated in a commercial area in Imam Khomeini Street, next to the Velayat Square; right in front, in the same shopping area there is another currency exchange store.

Here you can exchange rials per dirham or other currency, such as dollars or euros.

 

Bandar Abbas to Bahonar Port:

Taxi: 70,000 rials (30,000 rials if shared taxi)

It takes 30 minutes, from downtown to the port, depending on traffic. The taxi can enter the port and drop off passengers in front of the departure lounge.

Not worth arriving early. Though the boat starting at 9.00 pm, you must be in port by 5:00 pm… are hours of formalities, stamps, customs plus the time required to accommodate cargo and vehicles in the basement. Only there is a kiosk selling soft drinks and packaged snacks, cookies and little else.

 

At Bahonar Port:

In the port is expected to more than an hour to start boarding, passengers and goods (which are plenty) to spend the departure lounge by security devices (rx, metal detector, etc ..).

In the second room, for those who have no goods (the backpack does not count) can drive up to a counter and order your boarding pass showing the ticket.

The following is a wait of over an hour in this room, while all the goods are dispatched to the basement. Backpacks and suitcases remain with the passengers.

This room, are located immigration services, where they proceed to the formalities of stamping passports. It may take a few hours. Coincidentally or not the majority of western passports were trapped in the services being returned over an hour later, without justification.

Despite the departure being scheduled for 9 pm the boat just started the journey after midnight because of the time required to board vehicles and cargo.

Bahonar Port. Bandar Abbas
Bahonar Port. Bandar Abbas

Ferryboat trip:

Although there was reserved seats, these are not respected because of the small number of passengers, so crew direct people on the way that everybody can get over the three places and be able to lie down overnight.

At the boat is served dinner: meat with lentils and rice, bread, water, yogurt and doogh (yogurt-based drink but slightly salty(.

In the morning, around 7.00 am is served breakfast: bread, jam, processed cheese and tea.

As the boat is Iranian segregation keeps going on, with the front of the room reserved for families and women, and the rear compartment reserved for men.

The environment and noisy and confusing, especially in family area.

It is possible to access to the outside of the boat.

 

Ferry boat Bandar Abbas-Sharjah
Ferry boat Bandar Abbas-Sharjah

 

Ferry Boat. Dinner
Ferry Boat. Dinner

 

Ferry boat. breakfast
Ferry boat. breakfast

 

Ferry boat Bandar Abbas-Sharjah
Ferry boat Bandar Abbas-Sharjah

 

Ferry boat Bandar Abbas-Sharjah
Ferry boat Bandar Abbas-Sharjah

 

Ferry boat Bandar Abbas-Sharjah
Ferry boat Bandar Abbas-Sharjah

Sharjah to the Dubai:

Despite the delay on departing the ferry arrived at 10:30 to Port Khalid in Sharjah.

Passengers are directed to a bus that leaves us in front of the immigration services. Then the process slow but priority was given to Western foreigners; however from landing until we have the passport stamped is more than one hour.

Leaving the Port Kahlid the gate we are in the Emirates. To get to Dubai:

  1. Leaving the Port Khalid (Sharjah) walk on foot to find a small boat crossing a canal, parked between fishing boats. Ticket: 1 dirham; it takes 5 minutes. You can just ask to the people in the street that everybody knows the pier
  2. Across walk to the right side, crossing a viaduct where the left align plant vendors until you find the Bus: Jubail Bus Station. One can ask the direction to people on the way because everyone knows where it is. It is less than 2 km, but took about 15 minutes due to the hot and humid climate.

Khalid Port to Jubail Bus Station are about 5 km to the route is done by car, so the taxi is also an alternative. However the value proposed by the taxi driver was too high for what the option was to walk.

  1. In Jubail Bus Terminal, take the bus to Inter-Emirates Bur Dubai (Al Gubaiba bus terminal). The bus stand as the kiosk that sells tickets is the last terminal.

Please note: You must purchase a card to use the Inter-Emirates bus, which is also valid for the metro and buses in Dubai. There is the possibility of buying a single ticket. So the cheapest option for those wishing to stay for a short time in the Emirates is buying Silver Card of the RTA. You can recharge it in the bus terminals and Metro stations. It costs 25 dirham with a credit of 19 travel dirham.

  1. The journey takes more than 40 minutes off-peak hours, which can take hours.
  2. At Al Gubaiba bus terminal, just cross an intersection and you are at the entrance of the Metro. To reach the Dubai International Airport picks up the Green Line to “Burjuman” and then moves to the Red Line passing through several terminals of Dubai International Airport. The Silver Card RTA is valid in the metro and can be loaded with trips.
Sharjah_Kalid Port_DSC_4508
Khalid Port. Sharjah

 

Boat the ross the canal between Khalid Port and Sharjah
Boat the ross the canal between Khalid Port and Sharjah

 

Al Gubaiba Bus terminal. Bur Dubai
Al Gubaiba Bus terminal. Bur Dubai

 

Al Gubaiba Metro entrance. Bur Dubai
Al Gubaiba Metro entrance. Bur Dubai

 

Dubai. RTA Silver Card
Dubai. RTA Silver Card

How to cross the border Gurbulak–Bazargan (Turkey-Iran)

Due to problem in the east part of Turkey, resulting from conflicts to Kurdish community the train that usually runs from Ankara to Tehran, Trans-Asia Express, was canceled. Check for more update information about Trans-Asia Express at: //www.seat61.com/Iran.htm#train

According to the few information that I could get, the border Kapikoy– Razi, in Van district is open and the bus connection to border towns don’t have any problem.

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Other popular and easy border is the Gurbulak – Bazargan, a bit north, closer to Armenia, and this was the chosen one to enter Iran.

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Erzurum – Doğubayazıt

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The city of Erzurum doesn’t show much attractive, except the beautiful naked mountain that are visible from many places in the city. Anyway, from here there are buses to Doğubayazıt.

There are buses several times a day, but is recommended to leave early in the morning, as the trip until Doğubayazıt takes ore than 3.5 hours, and arrive with time to visit the Ishak Pasha Palace, that closes at 5pm.

The bus ticket should be bought in advance, in the bus terminal (a few kilometers far from the city) on in one of the bus companies and bus agents in the center of Erzurum, at Nazik Çarsisi Caddesi, close to the main shopping street.

The ticket cost 30 TL.

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Doğubayazıt – Gurbulak

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Doğubayazıt is the last town in Turkish side before the border.

Here is definitively recommend to spend the night, to start the trip to Iran in the morning and avoid to arrive to Tabriz too late. I leave from Doğubayazıt at 9.30 am and arrive to Tabriz at 8 pm.

The city is small, and easy to orientate. The buses from Erzurum stop in the main street. From there is 5 minutes walking until the office where the mini-vans (dolmus) to the border.

Mini-vans start at 7 am, and leave Doğubayazıt as soon they are full, and take 35 minutes until the border.

The ticket cost 7 TL.

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Doğubayazıt
Doğubayazıt. Office of the bus company that makes the service to Gurbulak… at front of the office there’s a few mii-vans parked

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Doğubayazıt
Doğubayazıt, in fronto fo the mini-van company that make the trip until the border

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Border Turkey-Iran (Gurbulak- Bazargan)

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Despite the long queue of trucks, there are only a few people crossing the border, not much more that the people that arrive in your mini-van.

After showing your passport and Turkish visa (the printed paper visa), and have your passport stamped, just follow to the next building were are situated the Iranian Immigration Office.

For women this is the time to put the scarf over the head.

In the Iranian side it takes more time to the foreigners, I mean, the non-Iranian or Turkish, because it is asked a few question about the reason of the trip and places to visit… just give the classic itinerary (Tabriz, Tehran, Esfahan, Yazd…) and make the life easier to you and to the border officer.

After this you are in Iran, where a friendly group of men, interrupt theirs chatting to ask same friendly questions and invite for tea. Here, according to some Internet infos, there are two guys that are good resource of information about the country.

Several friendly guys that want to exchange money will intercept you, both in Turkish as at the Iranian side, just outside the imitation buildings. Despite they insisting that is no possible to exchange Turkish Lira after the border, don’t believe, you can do it later… is up to you! Here in the street you can also exchange dollars and euros. If you are confortable with the Iranian currency and rates maybe is a good option, otherwise just wait 5 minutes until reach Barzagan.

Watch out that the time zone change in Iran, 1.5 hours late.

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Turkey-Iran border (Gurbulak–Bazargan)
Turkey-Iran border (Gurbulak–Bazargan)

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Bazargan – Maku

From the border you need to walk about 3 km or take a taxi to the next town of Bazargan, that is not much more than road with some shops, restaurants and small offices were you can exchange money. There are not much signs but just ask about “exchange” and suddenly you are surrounded by people trying to push you to an office of a friend. The rates are more or less the same. Here you can also exchange dollars and euros. Just get what you need to reach your next destiny… for sure there you’ll get a better rate.

Shared taxi cost 20.000 Rial per person.

You can change the last Turkish Liras at Gurbulak or Bazargan, but the taxi drivers accept TL until Maku.

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Bazargan – Maku

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From Bazargan you need a taxi to the next town that takes not more than 20 minutes, Maku where you find a bus terminal, and from here another bus to Tabriz, Tehran, etc…

Shared taxi cost 20.000 Rial per person.

There’s nothing in Maku that make you stay there, so you can go straight to the small and quiet bus terminal. There you find different bus companies offices. Is difficult to get information about schedules… so just arrive and ask about the next bus to the city that you want to go.

The Maku bus terminal, is a bit far from the center Maku, but has some small restaurants and acceptable toilets.

To Tabriz there is a bus departing at 3 p.m. Watch out that the time zone change in Iran, 1.5h plus.

The trip to Tabriz takes 6h… because the bus stops many times to pick and drop passenger on the way. Maybe a night bus is faster.

Bus ticket Maku-Tabriz: 110.000 Rials

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Maku
Maku

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Maku Bus Terminal
Maku Bus Terminal

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