Sumatra

22 days in Sumatra: itinerary & costs

Itinerary:

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Ferry crossing Merak-Bakauheni (from Java to Sumatra by ferry)
Bandar Lampung: 1 day
Krui: 5 days
Bengkulu: 1 day
Padang: 3 days
Bukittinggi: 4 days
Lake Toba: 3 days
Bukit Lawang: 3 days
Medan: 2 days

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Costs:

13.4 €/day

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… considering traveling solo, eating just local (vegetarian) food, no a/c rooms, sometimes dorms, travel by public transport, no alcohol and no soft drinks, making my own laundry and walking a lot on foot… Shopping and souvenirs are also not included, as well health expenses and communications (SIM card, mobile, telephone, internet…).

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Costs in Sumatra:

room (fan): minimum 60.000 Rp up to 100.000 Rp (one person); in Sumatra the accommodation is usually cheaper that other Indonesian islands. There are many places with dorms in the cities for 60.000 or 80.000 Rp; nearby the beach areas the prices increase reaching 100.000 Rp. Most of the times the breakfast isn’t included.
meal: less than 20.000 Rp for a meal (local food, street-food, vegetarian meals). The water is usually free at the guesthouses, as also coffee and tea.
rent a scooter: 70.000 Rp/day or 100.000 Rp/day; a litter of petrol: 10.000 Rp in road side shops (at the pump station is 8.500 Rp/l)
angkot (small local bus): costs from 2.000 Rp to 10.000 Rp for an urban area trip.
ojek (moto-taxi): 10 km cost around 15.000 Rp (but the price of the ojek depends on your bargain skills and the needs of the driver, weather, time of the day…).
At Medan the GoJek, Uber and Grab companies offer moto-taxi services, that are an easy way to move around.
There is only one passenger train service in Sumatra (Bandar Lampung to Palembang), so the bus is the most common option but the distances are big and sometimes the plain is the best option as the prices are not much higher than the bus, and a bus trip of 15 hours can be mande in 1 hour by plane. Still… all this Sumatra trip was done by land!!!!
A bus trip of 680 km costs around 200.000 Rp, in a air-con bus.
At Sumatra the cost with transportation increase significantly compared with Bali, Lombok or Java) as the distances are bigger. But the accommodation is cheaper than in the other islands that i visit.

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Note: this trip was made duriing Jun 2017, which still is still considered the low season, when the prices of the accommodation are lower, that can be significant at beach areas.

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MAP_Bandar Lampung City, Lampung, Indonesia to Medan - Google Maps-1-2 — Sumatra: itinerary

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Medan… where Indonesia meet Malaysia and China

Medan is not part of the tourist path being mostly used as an arrival point at North Sumatra, to visit Bukit Lawang and Lake Toba, or to catch a domestic flight to Padang, on the south coast.

But the city isn’t totally deprived of charm. There’s the Masjid Raya, the more than one century old mosque with an exotic architecture, the Istana Maimoon, a palace built by a sultan that now a small museum, the old town with Dutch colonial building as also a touch of Chinese shop houses and Indian neighbourhood where you can make a break to the Indonesian cuisine.

But for me, what brought the biggest surprise and the most pleasant time in Medan was the visit to the Tjong A Fie Mansion, the house of a rich Chinese merchant, from the end of the IX century, build in a mix of European colonial style and a strong Chinese influence. The house is a mark in the cultural panorama of the city and the Tjong A Fie, that arrive at Sumatra as a worker, build a fortune with the trade of tobacco, tea, rubber and sugar, becoming and important figure in Medan supporting education, health arts and culture. The house, where his relatives lived until a few years ago, has a balanced energy that creates a special positive atmosphere… and is a quiet place in the busy center of the city!

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With all these Medan is a kind of melting pot of cultures, where Indonesia met Malaysia and China!

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Old colonial building that still resist from the neglected old part of Medan

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"Little India" the Indian neighbourhood but where there's a big mix with the Chinese community — “Little India” the Indian neighbourhood but where there’s a big mix with the Chinese community

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What to see in Medan:

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Istana Maimoon also called the Sultan Palace build in IX century by the Sultan Ma’moem Al Rasyid. You can’t see much of the interior of the palace but is a nice place where you can chill and enjoy the local people dress up with sultan customs to pose for a photo nearby the throne. Ticket 5.000 Rp.
Masjid Raya is free but you need to dress properly (no shorts, no naked shoulders, etc…) and the women must cover the head.
Tjong A Fie Mansion is located in the old town that is the most interesting area to walk around in Medan, Ticket 35.000 Rp, which includes a guided tour.

//tjongafiemansion.org/

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Istana Maimoon also called the Sultan Palace build

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Where to sleep in Medan:

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The prices at Medan are higher that the usual in Sumatra, and as this city is not on the backpacker’s circuit is difficult to find a cheap guest house or a hostel.

The K77 Guest House is located a bit far out from the center but offers very nice and clean rooms as also a dorm, in a quiet alley in front of a mosque. In fact, cleanness is the word to describe this guesthouse where the owners are super friendly and provide a lot of information in a good English.

A bed in the dorm is 125.000 Rp and the breakfast is not included.

//k77guesthousemedan.blogspot.pt/

In a more central area there’s the Yap Hostel, just for women with a bed in a dorm for 75.000 Rp, but book in advance as is usually full, especially at the weekends.

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Where to eat in Medan:

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As there’s not much to do in Medan, the food could be a great entertainment if you need to stay a couple of days in this city and location close to Malaysian bring a new input to the Indonesian cuisine. As any big city, in Medan there’s a few “classic” that you must try!!

Lontong Kak Lin… it’s a simple and humble eatery that serves lontong, a classic Malasian dish, that is a soup where the base is compressed steamed rice. I try the Lontong Sayur, a very rich vegetarian version of the original, that is served with egg, a few noodles, some tapioca crackers and lots of fry onion!! (15.000 Rp)
Zulaikha Bika Ambon… bika ambon is an Indonesia cake and apparently Zubaikha is the place to buy it in Medan, judging by the number of people that come here on the last week of the Ramadan to buy several boxes of this cake before visiting the relatives during the Eid al-Fitr (the holidays that mark the end of the fasting). Bika Ambon is made from tapioca flour, egg, coconut milk and sugar, of course! After cooking it results in a dense and wet texture with a lot of thin holes… and less sweet than it looks like! A small cake cost 23.000 p and the big one 43.000 Rp… there are different flavor but I just try the “original”!
Rumanh Makan Nasi Campau Hj Uni Emi… this restaurant is a reference in Medan for Nasi Kapau, the traditional Minangkabau cuisine, from South Sumatra.
Merdeka Walk… street food everywhere after 5 p.m.

Despite these places there’s a lot of restaurants in Medan and is very easy to find masakan padang restaurants; due to the presence of a big Chinese community is very easy to find noodles, cooked in soups or stir fry.

If you are looking for a good supermarket where you can find top quality Indonesia products (is not so easy as we could imagine in a big city) the Brastagi Supermarket is the place!!! There’s a big choice of coffee and chocolates there!

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How to move around Medan:

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The city is big and with a lot of traffic but with a lot of public transport (angkot). At your guest house you can get information about the angkot numbers, as this is the best way to identify them, as the destination isn’t written most of the times. There are colours according to the destination. It isn’t difficult but you gonna need help. The traffic is intense so you can easily be stuck in a traffic jam.

Very popular are the bajaj, a kind of auto-rickshaw that can transport two passengers.

The best option, especially if you travel alone, is the ojek (moto-taxi). You can use the app service of GoJek or Grab companies, and a trip inside the city costs around 10.000 Rp… and is a good way to avoid the traffic jams. Usually, this kind of transport doesn’t go out of the city.

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How to go from Medan to the Airport:

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The closest international airport from the capital of Sumatra is the Kualanamu International Airport (also written as Kuala Namu), which is located more than 40 kilometers from the center of Medan. There are a few ways to reach the airport:

Taxi: 150.000 Rp
Travel Service arrange by the guesthouse/hotel: 200.000 Rp
Train Rail Link: 100.000 Rp. It is the fastest option as it avoids the usual traffic jams of Medan. The train leaves from the Statsiun Medan close from the Merdeka Walk.

//www.railink.co.id/jadwal-kereta

Airport Damri Bus: the DAMRI (Indonesian state-owned public transit bus company) operates buses from Amplas Bus Terminal in Medan to Kualanamu International Airport. The ticket costs 000 Rp, in modern air-conditioned buses, and the trip takes less than 45 minutes, but it can be more depending of the traffic. It isn’t the fastest option but is the cheapest!

To reach Amplas Bus Terminal (located in the southeast part of Medan) you need to take one of the angkot (small local bus) that will cost you 10.000 Rp. There are many of these angkots that end their trip at the bus terminal but is better to ask someone on your guesthouse as the destination on this angkots is not clearly written on the vehicle, but to help they all have a number to make it easy to identify. Watch out that this trip to the Amplas Terminal can take you about 2 hours… depending on the time of the day and the distance that you are from the terminal!!!!

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How to go from Medan to the Airport: DAMRI bus

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DAMRI ticket counter at the Amplas terminal

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How to go from Medan to Bukit Lawang:

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Bukit Lawang… keep wildlife wild!

“keep wildlife wild” can be found in a sign at the settlement of Bukit Lawang, a tiny village located at the entrance of the Gunung Leuser National Park that depends totally on the tourism that comes here to watch the wildlife, especially the orangutans.

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There are rumours that the guides feed the animal to attracted them to the areas of the park that the tourists usually visit, a practice that is totally forbidden and that is a disrespect towards the wildlife. I didn’t saw trying to feed the orangutans. And the orangutans seem to me that they don’t care much about human, making any effort to get close. Also didn’t saw anyone feeding the animals… but… there’s always a “but”!!! I saw several pieces of sugar cane on the ground, chewed in a way that any human can do… and there isn’t any sugar cane growing in this jungle!

When asked the guide said that they only give fruits to a specific female that has the fame of being aggressive to humans…. but I spent one day walking in the Park and didn’t saw that animal… but saw a few chewed pieces of sugar cane.

Sad.

Also sad is to see the human pressure on the natural territory of these delicate creatures, with the rubber tree plantation reaching the border of the park, and all the way from Medan to Bukit Lawang surrounded by palm oil trees.

Sad.

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But despite the negative impact that a greedy tourist business can have on the balance of the delicate wildlife a visit to the Gunung Leuser National Park was a very rewarding experience, with the presence of a couple of orangutans females with their babies as also a shy gibbon that was unaware of being watched from the ground.

The walk in the jungle isn’t easy, not just because of the hot and humid climate, but because the trails are steep and sometimes muddy, but the contact with the magnificent jungle trees allow us to connect with nature in a way that only the jungle can do!

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Gunung Leuser National Park . Bukit Lawang

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Orangutang... Gunung Leuser National Park . Bukit Lawang — Orangutang… Gunung Leuser National Park . Bukit Lawang

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Gibbon... Gunung Leuser National Park . Bukit Lawang — Gibbon… Gunung Leuser National Park . Bukit Lawang

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Bukit Lawang jungle trek:

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I did the 1-day trek at Gunung Leuser National Park with Trek Sumatra. It looks a very reliable company, an Indonesian/Canadian partnership, with an ethical and environment concern, with local and skilled guides and with all the information clearly showed on their web page.

Can’t really recommend Trek Sumatra, as I felt disappointed with the guide, as he didn’t provide much information about the wildlife, being extremely bored during the hike. I ask for a vegetarian meal and they forgot that detail. But he spotted easily the orangutans and the gibbons and didn’t get lost! LOL

The prices are more or less the same between the different companies and usually all tour pack includes the ticket (150.000 Rp), accommodation, guide and food. Maybe you can get something cheaper locally hiring a local guide. You can’t visit Gunung Leuser National Park alone, as it’s lot allowed but also because the are many trails, and any of them is marked, making difficult the orientation in the jungle.

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Ticket for the Leuser National Park . Bukit Lawang

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Where to sleep in Bukit Lawang:

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The village itself there’s nothing to offer to the visitors, not being more than a settlement of houses. The tourist accommodation as also restaurants, shops and other facilities are all located along a narrow path that runs along the river.

Usually, people arrive at Bukit Lawang already with a tour booked and the accommodation is most of the times included in the “orangutan pack”, which also includes the ticket and the guide.

I stay at Suma Guesthouse that has a dorm with good and comfortable conditions just in front of the river. A bed there is 50.000 Rp but doesn’t include breakfast.

This guesthouse is linked to the www.treksumatra.com

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Where to eat in Bukit Lawang:

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From the more than dozen of places, there was one that caught my attention as also my belly: the Jungle Hill Restaurant, with the standard Indonesian food, but cooked also in several vegetarian options. The best was the “rendang” in a tempeh version! Delicious food served with friendliness.

There are a few grocery shops at Bukit Lawang that provide all the basic stuff that you may need during the trek and during your stay at Bukit Lawang. Lot’s of cookies, chips, chocolates, mosquito repellent, toilet paper… not much choice of dry fruits.

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How to arrive at Bukit Lawang from Medan:

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If you arrive at Medan by bus you’ll probably end up at Amplas Terminal, located southeast of the city center, and quite far out.

If you arrive at Medan by plane, you can find a Damri Bus (public bus company with air-con vehicles) that drop you at Amplas Terminal.

At Amplas Terminal, after you get ride of the ojek drivers, you’ll see a yellow angkot (mini bus). It has a sign saying “Baris” that is the name of the bus terminal nearby. But tell the driver that you want to go to Bukit Lawang and he will drop you directly at the place where the buses stop, at cross road Jalan Gatot Subroto/Jalan Pinang Baris. The angkot cost 10.000 Rp and the trip takes 1.45 minutes, as it needs to cross Medan from East to West, and traffic jams are common in Medan.
The public buses to Bukit Lawang departure every 15 minutes. They are orange colour and they stop just in front of the Mawar Bakery. That is an important reference point.
The trip to Bukit Lawang takes more than 5 hours through a dusty and very bumpy road, along an endless palm oil trees landscape, in an old and crowded bus. The ticket cost 25.000 Rp. Pay only at the end of the trip to the driver’s helper. There are lots of people hanging around the place from the Bukit Lawang buses departure… stay way from everyone, as there’s a scam with the tickets involving people that are not working on the bus. Watch out your luggage.
It will drop you at Gotong Royong. From here you need an ojek to reach Bukit Lawang that is 2.5 km further. The best option is to ask a transportation from your guesthouse… believe me, after all this trip you’ll need this treat… and probably you’ll arrive close to the sunset, that makes more difficult to find your accommodation.

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public bus from Medan to Gotong Royong, the last village before you reach Bukit Lawang

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How to arrive at Bukit Lawang from Lake Toba:

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From Lake Toba to Bukit Lawang

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How to move out Bukit Lawang:

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By public bus:

You must try to get a ride from your guesthouse to Gotong Royong otherwise you have a strong chance to be ripped off by the ojek drivers that hang around Bukit Lawang.

At Gotong Royong there are local buses to Medan every 15 minutes. The ticket cost 25.000 Rp and the trip takes at least 3,5 hours to make the 75 km, along with a very bumpy and dusty road.

The bus drops you nearby Pinang Baris Terminal. There you find a lot of angkot to different parts of Medan, but can be confusing to know the best one for you. So is better to call a GoJek or Grab moto-taxi.

By travel service:

It cost 120.000 Rp and the car will drop you at your accommodation in Medan.

This service can be arranged everywhere in Bukit Lawang, from guesthouses to shops and restaurants.

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Prices of the travel service from Bukit Lawang to different destinations in Sumatra. The car to Medan and to Medan airport departure at 8 a.m.

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ATMs and Money exchange in Bukit Lawang:

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There isn’t any ATM at Bukit Lawang. The closest one is at Gotong Royong.

There are many moneychangers but be prepared for a bad rate.

Lake Toba… am I still in Sumatra?

There is a lake result from a volcano crater, the Lake Toba, locally called Danau Toba. There’s an island inside the lake, a big island more than the size of Singapore, which was the cone of the volcano, the Samosir Island, Pulau Samosir.

There’s a beautiful landscape where the blue of the lake waters contrasts with the gold grains of the rice fields. There’s an impressive cedar forest covering the steep slopes of the volcano. There’s a temperate climate with sunny warm days and fresh evenings. There are amazing traditional wooden houses from the Batak ethnic group… and there’s a small village called Tuktuk that is mostly a tourism orientated place, with empty shops, empty restaurants, empty guesthouses… where are the tourists!? What happen here?!?!?

It looks like Lake Toba was put aside on the tourist route of Sumatra… or maybe Sumatra is out of the Indonesian tourist route!

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But letting behind all this consideration, Lake Toba is definitely a beautiful place where the Batak cultural identity is still visible in the characteristic architecture of the wooden houses with pointy and steep roofs, and proudly decorated with woodcarving motifs, painted in white, black and red. The Batak is a group of different ethnic groups of North Sumatra that share similar language and culture, but where some traditions were seriously affected by the arriving of the Christian missionaries in the IX century.

The landscape that surrounds the Lake Toba as well of the Samorir Island with green hills covered by cedar forest, the Christian churches the flowers that grow in front of the houses, the quietness of the place, the mild temperatures… all this make me wonder… I’m I still in Sumatra?!

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The Batak culture and traditions were seriously affected by the arriving of the Christian missionaries in the IX century.

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Samosir Island... Batak culture — Samosir Island

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the Batak cultural identity is still visible in the characteristic architecture of the wooden houses with pointy and steep roofs, and proudly decorated with woodcarving motifs, painted in white, black and red

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Where to sleep in Samosir Island/Lake Toba:

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In general the accommodation prices at Tuktuk are cheaper that usual in Sumatra, and is possible to get a room for 50.000 Rp.

The Liberta Homestay is one of the many options available at Lake Toba and there, despite the abandoned look of the village, there’s a certain atmosphere as this place attracts travellers that choose this place to stay for long periods.

The location is perfect: nearby the lake and a few meters from the boat pier. There are trees and plant all around, making a quite and relaxing place to stay.

There is a wide range of room, with different characteristics and different prices, starting on 44.000 Rp (strange number this one, but apparently is to cover the government taxes, despite there isn’t a guest registration!!!)

I stay at the traditional Batak house, an old wooden house that has a big room with small doors, and a low ceiling in some areas, which make you very aware of your movements to avoid bumping your head. The toilet is attached but without hot shower. This room costs 66.000 Rp/night.

The breakfast isn’t included but there’s a restaurant at the place, serving a big choice of Indonesian and western food… I try cap cay (xap xai) a Chinese-Indonesia dish that was good but cooked according to the western taste, soft and without much species.

There’s wi-fi in the common/restaurant area but doesn’t reach all rooms.

The Liberta Homestay is a cool place with a certain character but the rooms as also the common area lack a little of maintenance and cleanliness.

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Where to eat in Samosir Island/Lake Toba:

There are many restaurants with a big choice of western and Indonesia food, with a strong presence of fish. But the pizza is the very popular in Tuktuk.

There are a few local eateries serving padang style food but run out of food around the middle of the morning. I try a few but didn’t find anything that stands up. For breakfast is possible to find at this eateries “gorengan”, deep fry banana, tempeh or chicken.

Tomok has a bigger concentration of local restaurants as also a small street market with fruits, nearby the ferry pier.

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At the empty Tuktuk some sweet pop up in the end of the afternoon... a small shop open it's door to sell "putu bambu" a Indonesian sweet made form rice flour and with palm sugar, which are steamed inside a bambu and served with grind coconut — At the empty Tuktuk some sweet pop up in the end of the afternoon… a small shop open it’s door to sell “putu bambu” a Indonesian sweet made form rice flour and with palm sugar, which are steamed inside a bambu and served with grind coconut

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How to move around in Samosir Island:

If you like to walk is possible to move around Tuktuk, as it is located in a kind of small peninsula with about 4 km perimeter.

But to go way from this area, even to Tomok, you gonna need a vehicle.

There are small buses along the road from Tomok to Pangururan.

Is possible to rent a scooter at Tuktuk but it will cost you 100.000 Rp a day (almost the double that you can find at others places in Indonesia) but with the tank full of petrol. Isn’t a good deal for you as you hardly empty the deposit in one day, only if you make a road trip around all Samosri Island… even so… and in the end of the day, if you still have half of the deposit with petrol, they don’t make any discount. So try to rent a scooter without the petrol included, as you can get a litter of 8.600 Rp just in front of Liberta Homestay.

Parts of the road are in good conditions others in bad and others are in works… all this make the 40 km from Tuktuk to Pangururan in a hard journey, but you can always take some rest in one of the many beaches along the way.

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ATMs and Money exchange in Tuktuk:

Couldn’t see any ATM at Tuktuk but there are a few moneychangers.

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How to reach Lake Toba/Tuktuk:

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No matter if you came from Medan or from Padang/Bukitting you’ll need to stop at Parapat, the closest village from the lake that has boats to Samosir Island.

If you travel by bus, they will probably drop you along the main road, nearby the street that leads you to the pier. Probably there will be an angkot (local small buses) that take you to the boats.

At Parapat you have two options:

there are boats that departure from Ajibata to Tomok, that transport vehicles… but there’s no accommodation at Tomok but you can get an angkot that pass by Tuktuk
and there are boats just for passengers from Tigaraja to Tuktuk… and you can even ask them to drop you directly at your accommodation if it’s located away from the main pier. The boat ticket is 15.000 Rp, per person, each way.

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Boat schedule from Parapat to Pulau Samosir, and return — Schedule of the boats that link Parapat to Pulau Samosir

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"angkot" from Parapat's main road to the boat pier to Pulau Samosir — “angkot” from Parapat’s main road to the boat pier to Pulau Samosir

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How to go from Lake Toba to Bukit Lawang or to Medan:

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There is no way to go to Bukit Lawang without passing by Medan.

The best definitely is hire one of the tourist services available at all places and guesthouses at Tuktuk, that drop you directly at Bukit Lawang for 220.000 Rp per person. The car will wait for you at Parapat pier. This travel service is also available to the airport (Kualanamu International Airport) as also to Medan for 90.000 Rp per person.

But if you prefer, you can do the entire trip by local transport for 80.000 Rp…. but it takes you all day and a lot of energy. Here is the step by step to reach Bukit Lawang from Tuktuk:

You need to take the first boat at 7:00 a.m. It’s better to arrive 10 minutes before as the boat sometimes arrive earlier. Boat from Tuk Tuk to Parapat take between 30 to 45 minutes and cost 15.000 Rp.
At the pier, there will be angkot (local public mini-buses) that drop you at the main road, where the local bus to Medan passes every hour. The ticket cost 4.000 Rp.
Just wait at Parapat for the bus at the main road. The bus arrived at 8 a.m. at Parapat and took 5 hours to reach Medan. It will drop you at Amplas Terminal. The ticket costs 40.000 Rp. It’s an old bus, not very clean or comfortable and people smoke inside… fortunately was a trip without music.
At Amplas Terminal, after you get ride of the ojek drivers, you’ll see a yellow angkot (mini bus). It has a sign saying “Baris” that is the name of the bus terminal nearby. But tell the driver that you want to go to Bukit Lawang and he will drop you directly at the place where the buses stop, at cross road Jalan Gatot Subroto/Pinang Baris Road. The angkot cost 10.000 Rp and the trip takes 1.45 minutes, as it needs to cross Medan from East to West, and traffic jams are common in Medan.
The public buses to Bukit Lawang departure every 15 minutes. They are orange colour and they stop just in front of the Mawar Bakery. That is an important reference point.
The trip takes more than 5 hours through a dusty and very bumpy road, along an endless palm oil trees landscape, in an old and crowded bus. The ticket cost 25.000 Rp. Pay only at the end of the trip to the driver’s helper. There are lots of people hanging around the place from the Bukit Lawang buses departure… stay way from everyone, as there’s a scam with the tickets involving people that are not working on the bus. Watch out your luggage.
It will drop you at Gotong Royong. From here you need an ojek to reach Bukit Lawang that is 2.5 km further. The best option is to ask a transportation from your guesthouse… believe me, after all this trip you’ll need this treat… and probably you’ll arrive close to the sunset, that makes more difficult to find your accommodation.

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Local bus from Parapat to Medan (Amplas Terminal). It’s an old bus, not very clean or comfortable and people smoke inside

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"angkot" that cross the city and drop you nearby the Pinang Baris Terminal, from where the bus to Bukit Lawang departure — “angkot” that cross the city and drop you nearby the Pinang Baris Terminal, from where the bus to Bukit Lawang departure

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Bukittinggi… the lake, the valley and the food

Bukittinggi, located in West Sumatra is the heart of the Minangkabau, an ethnic group that keep strong their traditions that are easily visible on the traditional architecture of wooden houses with the pointy roofs and by the less visible matriarchal society that is unique in Muslim communities.

The city has a some attractions that are interesting and worth a visit, like the house of Mohammad Hatta were the first vice-president of Indonesia lived, a figure respected in the country and affectively called Bung Hatta; an old-fashion clock tower (Jam Gadang) left by the Dutch that marks the center of the city and you can’t avoid; lively markets especially the Pasar Bawah (lower market) with it’s narrow corridors, crooked stalls and filthy areas, all wrapped in a dim light where we are welcomed with curious smiles; the Panorama Park that is not much more than a viewpoint but that offer an privileged view to the Koto Gadang, a natural huge stone wall as also for Sianok Valley, a canyon where the narrow river that runs now feed fertile rice fields.

The city is dominated by the Mount Merapi, a volcano that is still active and recently had some explosions, altering the usual mild climate of Bukkittinggi to more clouds and rainy days (June 2017).

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Sianok Valley, Bukittinggi

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But maybe what attract people to Bukittinggi are the surroundings, with the Danau Maninjau on the top of the list. It’s a lake on the caldera of an extinct volcano located 20 kilometers from Bukittinggi that is a much more interesting view from the top and the Puncak Lawang that is a nearby hill that is quickly being transformed into an amusement park.

But the Harau Valley stands up from all attractions the around Bukittinggi, with its flat rice fields surrounded by huge vertical rock walls, with the top crowned by trees and vegetation. From these impressive walls, a few waterfalls create cool and refreshing areas that are a blessing, after the more than 40 kilometers scooter drive along intense traffic. The valley has a perfect image of quietness that is just disturbed by the lively chatting of the kids at the end of the school day.

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Minang arquitecture nearby Danau Maninjau

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Things to do in Bukittinggi and around:

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Bung Hatta House (free)
Pasar Bawah… fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, groceries… and Pasar Atas, more for stuff and uninspired souvenirs
Second-hand clothes market
Panorama Park (20.000 Rp) from where you have the best view to Mount Merapi, an active volcano
Sianok Canyon and Koto Gadang are free, and you just need to walk along the road that goes down to the river and turn left before the bridge, in a small alley between houses… but you can also reach there through the Panorama Park. To reach the closest viewpoint of Koto Gadang you need to cross a footbridge and then climb up a long stone staircase.
Danau Maninjang and Puncak Lawang viewpoint (10.000 Rp)
Harau Valley (free but maybe you need to pay to see some waterfalls)… you can find a few guesthouses (as also a camping area) along the only road the runs through the valley and from there make some hiking along the valleys

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Where to sleep in Bukittinggi:

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Along Jalan Teuku Umar you have several accommodations for different budgets, but the Hello Guest House is the best budget option with different kinds of rooms as also a dorm.

Is located a walking distance from all the attractions in the city, has a friendly staff and is very-very clean! The sheets are pure white, the towels are fresh and the blankets are washed for every new guest (an unusual thing in Sumatra).

It’s a family business and Ling, the manager, is very friendly and useful providing all the information about how to move around, what to visit, where to eat… all without pushing you for expensive options or tours. She also booked my the bus ticket without charging any commission! The atmosphere is simple and friendly.

There are different kinds of rooms for different prices. But the cheapest option for a solo traveller is the dorm, which has a bathroom inside, with hot water!!! It’s 75.000 Rp per bed, including a breakfast (western style) that change almost every day. Free tea and coffee all day…. and free bananas during the breakfast time!

Good wi-fi.

//helloguesthouse.net/

There are quite some mosques at Bukittinggi and Hello Guest House is located nearby one of them… so you can be awake by the first morning calling around 4.30… but is like that all over the city, and is part of the deal if you are traveling in a Muslim country J

Strongly recommend this place that was one the reasons that made me stay longer at Bukittinggi than I had planned.

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Where to eat in Bukittinggi:

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But for me, the most remarkable memory of Bukittinggi was the food!!! It was during the Ramadan, all pointed for closed restaurants and less interesting options, but Bukkittinggi presented a pleasant and delicious surprise: the Ramadan Food Market with a big choice of Minangkabau cuisine: the Rendang and Nasi Kapau.

After almost three months in Indonesia, this delicious cuisine still surprises me. Simple food but with a wide range of flavours and a spicy twist.

The rendang is basically a stew bit a huge quantity of spices that are cooked for many hours with coconut milk, resulting in a very dark and thick gravy that usually is cooked with meat but can also be found with egg.

The nasi kapau is basically a mix of dishes served with rice, in the same style of the nasi campur that can be found in Java, Bali and Lombok. Traditionally the nasi kapau is served with long spoons made from coconut and small portions of juicy curries are add to the dish that can have a mix of vegetables, egg, meat or fish… but where the unripe jackfruit curry is a must!!!

Out of the Ramadan period you can find the best rending at Rumah Makan Selamat (Jl A Yani). For nasi kapau, you must walk down, behind the Pasar Atas, through a staircase, pass the second-hand cloths market and turn right until you reach a ground with food stalls

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See more about Indonesian food at: Masakan Padang… the most popular Indonesian cuisine

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The Ramadan food market open from 2 p.m until 6 p.m…. as this is a fasting period is not possible to eat there, and everything is sold for takeaway, locally called “bungkus”… and even if you are starving avoid to eat or drink on the street to respect the other people fasting. This market is located on the top north of Pasar Atas, strategically located in from of a mosque!!!

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Nasi Kapau at Ramadan Food Market at Bukittinggi, traditionally served with long coconut spoons

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Nasi Kapau in "bungkus" style... packed in banana leaf for takeawya — Nasi Kapau in *“bungkus”* style… packed in banana leaf for takeaway… maybe it hasn’t the best presentation but it has a delicious taste

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XXXXX — Looks like a meat sausage… but is filled with egg and tofu and is one traditional dish of Minang cuisine

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Bukittinggi… coconut cakes at Ramadan Food Market cooked directly over the fire wrapped in banana leaf

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How to move around in Bukittinggi:

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The city is small and easy to walk ad the most interesting things are close by from each other.

To explore the surroundings, like the Danau Maninjau, the Harau Valley or the Kings Palace is better to hire a scooter. Hello Guest House can arrange you a reliable scooter for 60.000 Rp a day.

There is also local public transport to both to Danau Maninjau and Harau Valley.

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How to go from Bukittinggi to Lake Toba:

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There are many local buses from Bukittinggi to Medan that pass by Parapat, the closest village from Lake Toba, but this are old buses without much comfort to make this 15 hours trip.

The ALS (Antar Lintas Sumatera) bus company has “executive” buses, daily at 5 p.m to Medan that will drop you at Parapat on the next morning around 7 am. The ticket cost 205.000 Rp (the same price as if you go to Medan).

It’s a modern and comfortable but the first part of the trip is along a very steep and winding road that made car-sick quite some people on the bus. The last part of the trip, the last two hours, the road crosses a very beautiful plateau, where the rural area is decorated with the Batak traditional houses. It really worth to be awake so soon!

The ALS buses don’t departure from the Bukittinggi Terminal but from the ALS office/counter at Jalan Soekarno-Hatta.

To reach ALS office you need to take an angkot (the red small mini-buses) that pass by Jalan Ahmad Karim that will drops you at Simpang Mandiangin (a crossroad on the way out of the city). The ticket is 3.000 Rp.
From there you can get another mini-bus, this time a blue one that drop you at ALS for more 4.000 Rp… or do it on foot as the distance is around 600 meters.

Watch out that the air-condition inside the bus is very cold, so bring proper clothes like a jacket, socks and a scarf to allow you comfortable sleep.

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ALS "execituve" bus to Medan that pass by Parapat (Lake Toba) — ALS “executive” bus to Medan that pass by Parapat (Lake Toba)

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How to go from Bukittinggi to Lake Toba: ALS bus fees from Bukittinggi

Padang… where is the food?!

“Padang” is one word that will cross your way as soon as you arrive in Indonesia, written at many signs and restaurant windows. Masakan Padang, that means Padang food, is the typical cuisine of the Minangkabau people of West Sumatra, and Padang is the capital of this region.

But visiting Padang, located in a traditional Muslim area of Sumatra, during the Ramadan, didn’t allow to experience the big choice of the restaurants with this kind of that put the name of this city on the gastronomic map of Indonesia.

But padang food is a bit everywhere in Indonesia, and despite the religious rules that push people to fasting during the day (more or less from sunrise until sunset), some restaurants still serve food during the day, although keeping the window where usually the food is displayed covered by a curtain as also the door, showing this way respect for the ones that are fasting. During the Ramadan, some of the restaurants that are open don’t allow the clients to eat there, selling food just for takeaway.

The Masakan Padang restaurants are easily identified be the way the food is presented: in piles at plates or in big metal bowls or trays for more juicy dishes, like curries. The plates are exposed at a window and visible from the outside, and most of them open from the morning until the evening. The food is served at room temperature and just the rice is kept warm.

Due to the big vegetarian choices available, like tofu, tempeh, green leaf vegetables, vegetable curies, jackfruit curries, and eggs in many ways… the Masakan Padang restaurants are a great choice for vegetarians!!!!

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But beyond the famous cuisine Padang has more to offer, although it is not a charming or engaging city, that was seriously afecte by 2009 earthquake. But still there enough things to see during a couple of days.

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an example of Minangkabau arquitecture at Taman Iman Bonjol

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Masjid Sumatera Raya Barat, the grand mosque of West Sumatra!!! In fact is an impressive building that crossed my way just I arrive in Padang, even before the first sun rays! It’s a massive structure inspired on the pointy rooftop of the Minangkabau (an ethnic group from West Sumatra) houses.

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Majid Raya Sumatera Barat... a new mosque with a modern design that was for me the most interesting sightseeing of Padang — Majid Raya Sumatera Barat… a new mosque with a modern design that was for me the most interesting sightseeing of Padang

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As the Ramadan time stole a bit the life of the city, with many shops closed, including many restaurants, was necessary a bit of walk to explore the other side of Padang. There’s a big Chinese community, even a neighbourhood identified as Chinatown with the traditional gate. Here the life runs at the usual pace, away from fasting traditions, and with markets and restaurants working normally.

Nearby the Chinatown, along the Jalan Batang Arau can be found what remains of the Dutch presence here… not much more that a few warehouses and buildings. Some of them are abandoned and others were transformed into bars and restaurants that are closed during the day, giving an sad feeling to this riverside area, despite the colourful fishing boats that are aligned along the riverside, known as Dutch Harbour.

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Padang's Chinatown, that during the Ramadan keep the usual pace, but where many restaurants keep a curtains covering the windows to respect the muslim fasting during this period — Padang’s Chinatown, that during the Ramadan keep the usual pace, but where many restaurants keep a curtains covering the windows to respect the muslim fasting during this period

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But the Ramadan despite bringing fasting and closed restaurants also has the bright side: the Ramadan food markets!!!! Usually improvise street-market that just run during this season, that open during the afternoon selling food, some of which can only be found during the Ramadan, where people come to buy the food to break the fasting as also for the last meal before dawn, that impose the fasting again. So these markets are a delight for the senses and a temptation to everyone, although can be impolite eating this meals, snacks or sweets on the street, before the sound of the siren marking the end of the fasting.

At Padang, the Ramadan treats, many of them homemade, can be found in many streets between 4 and 5 p.m., but at Taman Iman Bonjol, a small park at the center of Padang where people play sports, hang out and where lots of kids play, where is located the Ramadan Food Market.

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Ramadan Food Market at Taman Iman Bonjol

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But with or without Ramadan, the markets are always the center of the activity in any Indonesia city, and Padang is not an exception! The Pasar Raya, the main market in the city, is a group of a few buildings that didn’t look inviting to visit. But outside along the Jalan Pasar Raya is where everything interesting happens… a street crowded with sellers, hawkers, people and traffic… clothes, fruits, fish and tasty food… busy, colourful and vibrant of activity.

Impossible to be unnoticed here!!! From everywhere the usual “hello” and “where are you from?”… Portugal?!?! Cristiano Ronaldo! 🙂

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Padang street food — street food at Pasar Raya… delicious deep-fry snack made form corn and seasoned with kefir leaf.

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Where to sleep in Padang:

Most of the people just stay in Padang on the way to Mentawai Island, but still, there are many accommodations in the city for different budgets. I choose one with a dorm as the prices at Padang are a bit height that the usual in Sumatra.

The Brigitte House, as different kinds of rooms, as also a dorm with 4 beds… is a nice place with good conditions, a balcony, a rooftop and is located in a quiet area. The staff is friendly but the owner can be a bit distant and indifferent to the guests, particularly the ones that are not buying one of the many tour pack available at the guesthouse. I don’t miss the place but the price was attractive considering other options in Padang. The bed at the dorm, with air-con, safe lockers and breakfast included is 95.000 Rp a day.

//brigitteshousepadang.com/

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Brigitte House… the cats are the coolest thing here!!!

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Where to eat in Padang:

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Ramadan… most of the places are closed, that make the visit of the most famous Indonesian cuisine a bit odd experience. But on the other hand, the Ramadan creates a curious phenomenon: the food markets that show up on the streets, some organized some very informal, during the afternoon and last until five or six in the evening. It’s a place where people come to buy food, already cooked, looking for treats to break the day fasting and having the next morning meal already in mind. It’s a delight for the senses, with a huge variety of Indonesian cousin, where is also possible to find types of food specially prepared for this season.

At Padang, nearby the Taman Iman Bonjol, a park chosen by local to chill with lots of kids playing, there’s a market area with delicious food!

But during the day, there are many other options to try the Padang food, locally called Masakan Padang. Yet, most of them were closed during the Ramadan, so I just found two of the top choices restaurants open: Restoran Sari Raso (at Jalan Karya, 3; open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.) and Rumah Makan Pagi Sore (Jalan Pondok, 143; open from 7.30 a.m. to 9 p.m.).

From this two eateries just have the opportunity to try the Sari Raso that is famous also for the wide range of vegetable dishes. The place during the Ramadan looks closed but behind the curtain that covered the door there’s delicious food served in an informal atmosphere. If you seat and ask for 4 or 5 dishes, hidang style, you may pay something around 50.000 Rp, just for vegetable and egg dishes. It’s a big portion of off just for one person, but you also have the pesan system, where the food you choose is served on a plate with rice, and this will cost around 15.000 Rp.

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Sari Raso... delicious food, with a lot of vegetarian option... one of the few masakan padang restaurant that was open during the day at Padang — Sari Raso… delicious food, with a lot of vegetarian option… one of the few *masakan padang* restaurants that was open during the day at Padang

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A delicious meal at Sari Raso Restaurant... a reference of Padang food — A delicious meal at Sari Raso Restaurant… a reference of Padang food

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How to move around Padang:

There are many types of angkot (public transport) in Padang, and the type of vehicle as also the colour indicates the route/destination. It’s not easy to understand how this system works, but there’s a big concentration of this angkot nearby Pasar Raya… and there you must tell to the drivers about your destination, and wait until one point you the right vehicle. Is not easy and it takes time and patience, as almost anyone speaks English, and you going to feel how useful is to know a few words of Indonesian!!!

For some strange reason, most of the public transport vehicles at Padang are personalized with eccentric decoration and always have a blasting sound system that can transform a trip in hellish experience!!! Sometimes these angkots are very old, dirty and in bad conditions, but nothing looks to affect the sound system, which sometimes is the only thing that is not decrepit.

But to make things easy, there are also the TransPadang, modern and confortable buses that have a number according to the route, as also specific bus stops (bus halt) that are easy to identify. A TransPadang trip cost 3.000 Rp.

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Sometimes these angkots are very old, dirty and in bad conditions, but nothing looks to affect the sound system, which sometimes is the only thing that is not decrepit. — Sometimes these *angkots* are very old, dirty and in bad conditions, but nothing looks to affect the sound system, which sometimes is the only thing that is not decrepit.

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the public transport in Padang have a "particular" look — the public buses in Padang have a “particular” look

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Bengkulu… a stopover on the long Sumatra bus trips

For a tourist, there isn’t any reason to stop in this city, on the south cost of Sumatra, through is the most important transport hub on the way from Bandar Lampung to Padang, and due to the bus schedules is probably necessary to stop one night in Bengkulu… that what happen to me, and I just stay the obligatory time, one evening and one morning, to follow to the next destination: Padang.

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There’s a fort left by the British colonization, a long beach (Pantai Panjang) to see but not to swim, a huge market (Pasar Baru Koto) that during the Ramadan is numb, a British fort very well preserved (Fort Marlborough), there’s an interesting mosque (Majid Jamik) design by the President Soekarno that spent here his 10 years of exile during the Dutch colonization, there are friendly and smiley people but there’s also a language barrier, as Bengkulu is not used to receive the visit of foreigners and not many people speak English.

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Bengkulu

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Fort Marlborough left by the British presence at Sumatra… the most significant monument at Bengkulu, very well maintained and can be visited for free

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Fish MArket — Pasar Ikan Malabro, an Impoverished area nearby the sea…. a place that get alive later in the afternoon with street food

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Where to sleep in Bengkulu:

The Vista Hotel is far from being an attractive place, but is a good choice due to the prices and especially by location, very close by the Travel Companies… in fact just next door of San Travels, from where you can take buses to Padang.

I stay in a single room, shared toilet, without air-con or fan, for 80.000 Rp… this is the cheapest option at Vista Hotel. The place is clean, a bit decadent but still reasonable to spend one night. Choose one room away from the main road, as the traffic noise is quite intense.

No wi-fi.

The staff doesn’t speak English.

Address: Jl. MT. Haryono No. 67, Bajak, Kota Bengkulu

Phone: (0736) 20820

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Vista hotel fees... there is no wi-fi and the staff doesn't speak english — Vista hotel fees… there is no wi-fi and the staff doesn’t speak english

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Vista Hotel... single room. A bit depressing but just next door from the San travels bus parking — Vista Hotel… single room. A bit depressing but just next door from the San travels bus parking

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How to go from Bengkulu to Padang:

There are several bus companies linking Bengkulu to Padang, most of them with offices or agents at Jalan MT Haryono. The most reliable are the San Travels that offers an “executive” bus service.

The San Travels ticket counter is at Jalan MT Haryono, just next to the Vista Hotel, and the buses to Padang departure from here. Is better to buy the ticket as soon as you arrive, as the bus gets full.

Is a good and comfortable bus, but the air-con is freezing cold; it doesn’t take the road along the coast, instead it goes through Lubuk Linggau and Sitiung. The road until the sunset is very nice along villages and countryside landscape, but it takes time to load the bus with vegetables and other stuff.

The ticket from Bengkulu to Padang cost 200.000 Rp.

The bus departure at 1 p.m. and arrives at Padang at 6 a.m. It doesn’t stop at any terminal but the last stop is at Jalan Sulaiman, just after he Masjid Raya Sumatera. From there is easy to spot the bus stand of the TransPadang (tickets cost 3.000 Rp).

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Prices for the San Travel buses to different destination in Sumatra and also Java

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comfortable "executive" bus, where the blankets ar really necessary due to the low temperature of the air-conditioner — comfortable “executive” bus, where the blankets ar really necessary due to the low temperature of the air-conditioner

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San travel bus to Padang... this company has good quality buses — San travel bus to Padang… this company has good quality buses

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Wi-fi at Bengkulu:

I couldn’t find a restaurant with wi-fi or an internet café… but could find a shop selling vaporisers – Vapouritz – with wi-fi, that is also a café/restaurant, making this place a cool place to chill. Is centrally located nearby the Majid Jamik… it was also a good opportunity to socialize with local young people: very friendly and willing to know more about the world! thanks guys for the nice chat!!!

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How to go from Bengkulu to Krui:

San Travels has a bus service from Krui to Bengkulu… and so must be the same on the other way around. Probably the same bus that links Bengkulu to Jakarta.

I couldn’t find the schedule but this buses departure form the San travels Terminal (Jalan Kalimantan). But is better contact the office for precise and detailed information.

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San travel contacts... to get information about prices and schedules from the buses that departure from Bengkulu — San travel contacts… to get information about prices and schedules from the buses that departure from Bengkulu

Krui… “hello mister”

I think I’ve never found any place where people are so eager to interact with foreigners as in Krui… there are “hello mister” coming from everywhere, no matter if you are a man or a woman. Almost everybody is willing to communicate with foreigners, which are not so rare in these places because Krui is famous for the good surf breaks, which attracts people from several countries, but the level of the English spoken in this remote village of the South of Sumatra creates a barrier in the communication for those that don’t speak Indonesian.

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If you are not in the surfing mode, or if your skills aren’t good enough for strong waves, Krui is still a pleasant place to stay: quiet village, nice people, warm weather and a sea with a perfect temperature… let’s say, something around 27 degrees all year round. But… there’s always a “but”… the currents are strong and the waves break hard on the shore.

So this makes swim a danger activity, but with the low tide the reefs create a barrier that makes the waves break offshore, and just small waves reach the beach. Perfect moments, sitting in the shade of a tropical tree, watching the clear blue water and feeling the warm wind coming from the ocean heating my wet clothes… as in this area, swimming suits are just allowed to men!

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But Krui, located between the tropical jungle and the sea, is more to offer than just the waves… there are rice fields to walk through, waterfalls to discover, rivers to swim and a market to visit in the centre of the village, that during the Ramadan get’s alive and makes us forget the sleepy mood that warps Krui during the day.

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Krui beach… during the low tide the coral get exposed but the waves break far out from the shore and provide still and shallow waters to swim

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Krui beach_DSC_6616 — Krui with the Gurung

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Fish market at the streets of Krui village

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Krui village_IMG_3686 — During the Ramadan the firecrackers are tradition and be prepared to wake up with the sound of small explosions… the kids get crazy with it!!

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Where to sleep in Krui:

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There are a few hotels along the main road, but the best places to stay are nearby the beach, usually identify as surf camp or losmen, and close by the surf breaks.

Fortunately, by chance, the Losmen Palm Beach Krui crossed my way and there I found a very nice room and a chill atmosphere, which make me stay longer that I planned. The owner, a German guy a long time living in Indonesia, is a friendly host and help me a lot with information about how to reach Krui and how to move on to the next destination.

There are different kinds of rooms in this surf camp that is also prepared to receive big groups. I stay in a single room in a cozy wood house, with a fan and with outside toilet (but not shared)… the cheapest options for a solo traveler is 100.000 Rp a night. There are quite some social areas to chill and interact with others guests.

Meals and breakfast are not included but can be ordered on the day before, or even include in a pack along with the room price…. but there’s always a tasty morning coffee for free. Nearby, less that 5 minuts walking there are a few warungs serving the standard Indonesia food.

Losmen Palm Beach Krui is located a few meters from the beach, and about 25 minutes walking from the local market, where you can find the commercial area, restaurants and street-food.

The wi-fi at Losmen Palm Beach is very good, fast and reliable.

//www.losmen-palmbeach-krui.com/

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Where to eat in Krui:

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Along the main road that crosses the village there are many warungs with the usual Indonesian food, but during the Ramadan, most of them are closed.

The Warung Nasi “Dua A” is open early morning (around 6 a.m.) serving tasty food for a cheap price; is located next to the P.O. Krui Putra, where the buses stop from Bandar Lampung and Bengkulu stop (close from a roundabout with a fish statue).

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Warung Nasi “Dua A” is open during the Ramadan, when most of the places close during the day

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Warung Nasi “Dua A” ... simple but tasty food, with plenty of vegetable choices — Warung Nasi “Dua A” … simple but tasty food, with plenty of vegetable choices

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During the Ramadan, around 3 o’clock the crossroad nearby the pasar (market) get full of people selling food, lots of fresh fish but mostly sweet drinks, sweets and snacks, usually gorengan (deep-fry stuff)…. there are lots of choices, all home made treats.

If is difficult to find an open eatery in Krui during the Ramadan, it’s also a excellent opportunity to try the home made treats made specially to break the Ramadan fasting…. but be quick, as around 5 p.m. this street market closes.

During the day there are a few fruit shops as also supermarkets, open until 10 p.m.

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Krui village_IMG_3685 — This is a good opportunity to try the food specially made to break the Ramadan fasting…. but be quick, as around 5 p.m. this street market closes.

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How to move around in Krui:

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The village of Krui is not that big and can be done on foot, but the warm temperatures make a walking during the day in hard task… you’ll be the only one walking in the village as everybody move by scooter!!!

But to explore the surroundings is better to rent a scooter.

you can drive along the coast and spot other beaches and surf breaks.
drive through the small fishing settlement and enjoy the “hello mister” from the villagers and pass by the Krui´s small fishing harbor.
walk along the rice fields until finding a waterfall… but you gonna need a guide for this!!!
swim in the river along with the local kids… for that ,you need to drive along the Krui-Liwa road until you find a turn to the right side; from there drive all the way until the end of the road that crosses a beautiful countryside landscape and you’ll end up in a wide shallow river…. I’ll not be alone there but is an enjoyable experience swim in the fresh water at the end of a hot day!
drive through the jungle until Liwa and from there visit the lake (Danau Ranau)… but this is a long trip through a winding and steep road!!!

A a scooter for 70.000 Rp for one day… but long term rentals are much cheaper.

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Crossing the road from Krui to Bintuhan there are many rivers surrounded by tropical forest

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A hidden waterfall that can be reach by a short walk along the rice fields... but you gonna need a guide to reach there! — A hidden waterfall that can be reach by a short walk along the rice fields… but you gonna need a guide to reach there!

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Exploring Krui surroundings... you gonna need to rent a scooter — Exploring Krui surroundings… you gonna need to rent a scooter to find nice and quiet places to chill

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ATMs and Money exchange in Krui:

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There are an ATM in Krui but be prepared because sometimes it can run out of money. The closest ATM is at Liwa.

Didn’t saw any money changer.

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How to go from Krui to Bengkulu:

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There are two bus services from Kuri to Bengkulu:

O. Krui Putra… it arrives at Krui around 6 a.m…. but can be later depending on the traffic and many others factors, as this bus comes from Jakarta. The bus stays about 30 minutes at Krui to allow the drivers to rest. The trip took 11 hours with 2 stops for rest and food (30 minutes each) and a few more stops to drop passengers and cargo.

The road until Manna is very beautiful, with the sea in one side ant the jungle on the other side (you can spot monkeys) and the pavement is mostly in good conditions, but after that is getting worst. As the bus get close from Bengkulu the traffic increase significantly. You can ask the drivers to drop you at your hotel or nearby the bus travel agents of Jalan MT Haryono.

You don’t need to book or buy the ticket in advance, just show up at the P.O. Krui Putra “office” (nearby the roundabout with the fish statue, just next to the “Dua A” warung) and wait for the bus. The ticket cost 130.000 Rp.

The Krui Putra bus is old and doesn’t have much confortable. I ask to seat on the front as there is more space… but here is air-con; be prepared for loud music all the way!!!!

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San Travels… they have a bus that passes at Krui daily around 1 a.m. and 2 a.m. and the ticket to Bengkulu cost 175.000 Rp. The trip takes about 8 hours, according to the information of the guys who are selling tickets but I couldn’t get confirmation). The San travel has more modern and comfortable buses but this option has the inconvenient of making the most interesting part of the trip – Krui to Maans – during the night but MAYBE it arrives before 1 a.m., on time for you to get the bus to Padang on the same day… but nothing is guaranteed!!!

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the P.O. Krui Putra “office”, nearby the roundabout with the fish statue, just next to the “Dua A” warung)

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Bus from the P.O. Krui Putra that comes from Jakarta and passes by Krui on the way to Bengkulu. The Krui Putra bus is old and doesn’t have much confortable. I ask to seat on the front as there is more space... but here is air-con; be prepared for loud music all the way!!!! — Bus from the P.O. Krui Putra that comes from Jakarta and passes by Krui on the way to Bengkulu. The Krui Putra bus is old and doesn’t have much comfortable. I ask to seat on the front as there is more space… but here is air-con; be prepared for loud music all the way!!!!

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San travel "office" at Krui where you can find informations about the bus from Krui to Bengkulu — San travel “office” at Krui where you can find informations about the bus from Krui to Bengkulu

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San Travels schedule and prices from Bus from Krui to Bengkulu and other destinations

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Sumatra

Itinerary:

Costs:

13.4 €/day

Costs in Sumatra:

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see also:

What to see in Medan:

Where to sleep in Medan:

Where to eat in Medan:

How to move around Medan:

How to go from Medan to the Airport:

When asked the guide said that they only give fruits to a specific female that has the fame of being aggressive to humans…. but I spent one day walking in the Park and didn’t saw that animal… but saw a few chewed pieces of sugar cane.

Sad.

Also sad is to see the human pressure on the natural territory of these delicate creatures, with the rubber tree plantation reaching the border of the park, and all the way from Medan to Bukit Lawang surrounded by palm oil trees.

Sad.

Bukit Lawang jungle trek:

Where to sleep in Bukit Lawang:

Where to eat in Bukit Lawang:

How to arrive at Bukit Lawang from Medan:

How to arrive at Bukit Lawang from Lake Toba:

How to move out Bukit Lawang:

ATMs and Money exchange in Bukit Lawang:

Where to sleep in Samosir Island/Lake Toba:

Where to eat in Samosir Island/Lake Toba:

How to move around in Samosir Island:

ATMs and Money exchange in Tuktuk:

How to reach Lake Toba/Tuktuk:

How to go from Lake Toba to Bukit Lawang or to Medan:

Things to do in Bukittinggi and around:

Where to sleep in Bukittinggi:

Where to eat in Bukittinggi:

How to move around in Bukittinggi:

How to go from Bukittinggi to Lake Toba:

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Where to sleep in Padang:

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Where to eat in Padang:

How to move around Padang:

See also: Masakan Psdang… the most popular Indonesian cuisine

Where to sleep in Bengkulu:

How to go from Bengkulu to Padang:

Wi-fi at Bengkulu:

How to go from Bengkulu to Krui:

Where to sleep in Krui:

Where to eat in Krui:

How to move around in Krui:

ATMs and Money exchange in Krui:

How to go from Krui to Bengkulu:

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