Colombo, Sri Lanka’s capital was the last stop on a route that lasted a month in the island of Sri Lanka, formerly called Ceylon.
The city shows little attractive to visitors without significant tourist, historical or cultural attractions, and given it’s large and highly congested traffic that create a noisy and polluted atmosphere, that mixed with the hot and humid climate, don’t produce much enthusiasm to make city tours.
The oldest part of the city is called Colombo Fort, which once was really limited by walls, of which nothing remains. Survive some imposing buildings attesting to the power of British colonialism, where the between were modern buildings grow, with offices, hotels, and luxury housing, making this neighborhood, where is also located the official residence of the president, in a quiet, sophisticated and well-policed ​​area.

Not far away, at a distance that can easily be done on foot, is the Galle Face, a promenade that stretches along the sea for about a kilometer. During the day, under the burning sun, few venture in these place, but after five o’clock, with the end of the working day and as the sun is going down, Galle Face starts attracting much of the local population that occurs here relishing the fresh sea breeze.
While watching the sunset, is time for a walk, chatting, dating, play with the kids and to enjoy a snack, sold in more than ten stalls that line up along Galle Face. For an unknown reason, all the stall sell the same kind of snacks: pol roti, ulundhu vadai and parippu vada, which does not offer great choice to those who want to eat something other than fried.

But what aroused most interesting was the walk through the neighborhood located next to Colombo Fort, Pettah, one of the oldest neighborhoods in the Sri Lankan capital, which is currently occupied by an extensive bazaar where you can find a bit of everything from food, textiles, electronic goods, jewelery, clothing, etc… in a cluttered and busy environment, which seems dominate by chaos, but in Pettah the trade is organised by streets where each one is sold a specific type of products.

Along the streets of Pettah that due to traffic, the large number of people, the street vendors and lots of goods piled along the sidewalks, seem too narrow, porter move hastily transporting goods on the back or pushing hand-cars in an effort increased by the tropical warmth felt from the beginning of the day.

So the stay in Colombo was marked by the bustling bazaar of Pettah and the walks by the sea, along the Galle Face, savoring the warm breeze coming from the sea.

 

Where to stay in Colombo:
In Colombo, the cheapest options for accommodation are located further south of the city, so for those who want to stay in Colombo only for one or two nights, on arrival or at the end of the trip, the best option is to stay in Colombo-Fort. At Colombo-Fort is located the train station and two bus terminals, as well the bus stand for the bus to Negombo Airport, officially called Bandaranaike International Airport.
However, Colombo-Fort is a very expensive area in terms of accommodation, without many options. In a hostel, a bed in a dorm costs around € 18 (Cityrest Fort Hostel) so the cheapest option was the YMCA, a century-old institution that occupies an equally ancient building.
Not being very well referenced in the touristic guides, YMCA Colombo offers reasonable conditions, with a diverse range of rooms, from dorms, to double. The toilets and bathrooms are shared. The rooms along with the bathrooms need some repairs, but the basic is assured. The rooms are decorated with classic and heavy furniture that matches with the austere and sober style of the place, that together contribute to creating a captivating atmosphere that makes you forget the little flaws. YMCA is a good place to stay in Colombo, but a bit overpriced
YMCA Colombo
Address: 39, Bristol Street, Colombo 01
Tel: 011-2325252 / 3
Email: [email protected]
Dorm (male or female): 1500 LKR
Single room: 2050 LKR, shared toilet
Another alternative for those who do not intend to spend much time in Sri Lankan capital, or must stay for only a few hours, between a train, a plane or bus trips, is to stay in the Pettah area. Directly opposite the railway station in Colombo-Fort, across the street, are several “hotels” and guest houses that rent rooms, usually above restaurants (in Sri Lanka commonly called by “hotel”) or shops. The area is busy and noisy, but for a short stay can be a good option.

 

Where to eat in Colombo:
After the short stay in Colombo, two places pop up, that are recommended sites:
One of the options was in Pettah to taste a delicious rice and curry in the local atmosphere: a restaurant frequented predominantly by Muslims, but where easily find vegetarian food:
Hotel Bankshall
Address: 57, Bankshall Street. Petah, Colombo 11
This “hotel” that has nothing to do with rent rooms, serving among other things, a tasty rice and curry for 110 rupees, with the right to “refill” and many smiles among the prying eyes of other unaccustomed customers the foreigners in this place.

Colombo Fort, two blocks behind the YMCA, is the Ruhunu Food Center, a big restaurant serving a bit of everything: rice and curry, snacks, sandwiches, hoopers, roti, kottu… very busy and a bit crowded, but with very good food, and a lot of smiles. Even at dinner, you can find here rice and curry, which unusual in Sri Lanka, where this dish is reserved for lunch.
Food Center Ruhunu
Address: Lotus Road, Colombo 01 (near the Sri Lanka Telecom and Sir Baron Jayathilaka Mawatha Road

 

Transportation in Colombo:
Colombo distances are great with the city to extend for several kilometers south along the sea, so the tuk-tuk is a good choice, although the traffic is intense, noisy and the air polluted.
Buses are by far the cheapest solution, and given the large amount, for sure that there is a bus to any part of the city.
However, my experience was limited to walking, hiking between Pettah, Fort and Galle Face, easily made on foot.
At Colombo-Fort are concentrated the main public transport services, serving the city as also other parts of the country: train station (Colombo-Fort), and two bus terminals, Colombo Central Bus Stand and Bastian Mawatha Bus Station, all located within 500 meters.

 

How to go to Colombo Airport (Negombo):

how to go to Colombo airport

 

Colombo Population: 650,000
Columbus elevation: 9 meters

The international airport of Sri Lanka (formally named Bandaranaike International Airport) is located 30 km north from Colombo, close to the city of Negombo, and informally is known by Negombo Airport.

This location makes the stay in Negombo a good option if you have an early flight or if you arrive in the evening. But if you want to go straight to Colombo, and want to avoid the taxis (that cost minimum 2.500LKR) you have the bus that links the airport to the city center (Colombo fort) 24 hours and costs 100 LKR. The bus trip takes around 1 hour and use the express way, that means that avoid much stops and the busy national roads.

When you arrive, and pass the immigration process (quiet fast) and collect the luggage, you reach to a hall where you can find the ATM and the Information desk, as also some small office/shops of pre-paid taxis, hotels, travel agencies and money exchangers.

The ATM are located on the left side. As also the Information desk is not so obvious and others desk also offer tourist information but that are related to hotels and travel agencies, and probably will try to push you to more expensive option.

As I wanted to travel directly from the airport to Kandy, one of this travel in one of this desks told me that the only option was to take a taxi, as the last bus already left, and immediately a pre-paid taxi driver approach to confirm the information… but it wasn’t true, as I realised later.

[clear]

[clear]

Katunayake is a small village just next to the airport, about 1.5 km, and to reach the bus terminal of Katunayake you can do it on foot, but with the luggage maybe a tuk-tuk is a good option that will cost 100 LKR. When you leave the airport the tuk-tuk that are waiting in the front of the gate will ask much more… sometimes 800 LKR… is a good test for your bargains skill, that you’ll going to need during your stay in Sri Lanka!

So, to arrive to Katunayake Bus Terminal, when you exit the airport gate and reach the main road (where the tuk-tuks are) you must turn left. From here you need to walk south along the main road; there is no side walk but part of the way you have a kind you green are that keep you in a safe distance from the traffic. When you reach a big intersection (ignore the first intersection), after passing a kind of arc (looks like a gate over the main road), you need to turn left and walk more 500 meters to reach the Bus Terminal, that is located in a small street on your left side. Here you just need to ask the direction to the local people. Katunayake Bus Terminal is small and very basic and without much signs in English, so you need to ask to the local people where the bus stops.

 

[clear]

[hr]

How to go from the Airport (Negombo) to Colombo

[clear]

But if your destiny is Colombo, is much easier. As you exit the airport arrivals building (that in fact is the same building as the departures) you must walk left and after 100 meters you’ll see a few buses stop on your left, even before you exit the airport gate. These buses governmental buses (SLTB) that leave the airport every 15 minutes. During the night the frequency decrease to 1 bus every hour.

The bus number is 187 (air condition bus) and uses the expressway to reach Colombo, which takes around 1 hour, but could be more, depending of the traffic.

The 187 bus run 24h.

It cost 100 LKR.

The bus let you in Colombo-Fort, close from the Railways station and from Colombo Central Bus Stand and Bastian Mawatha Bus Station.

[clear]

[clear]

[hr]

How to go from Colombo to Kandy

[clear]

1. The cheapest option is the train, that cost you 190 to 280 LKR (depending if it’s “express” or “normal” train) and take 3 hours, but arrive a bit later that the schedule. Although is difficult to have a seat, as the reserved seat (just for 1st class) are sold out in advance. There are 8 trains a day doing Colombo-Kandy trip.

[clear]

2. The most expensive option it hired a taxi, but also the faster and more confortable. An option to have in consideration if you travel in a group of 4.

Táxi Colombo to Kandy: 6000 LKR (2 h)

[clear]

3. The buses are the easiest option, not expensive and are always available during day time since 5 in the morning. They are uncomfortable, and due to the intense traffic the drivers are constantly speed and braking, making any trip that last more than 3 hours a tiresome journey, also because of the constant beeping of the bus and all the others vehicles that circulate on the road. The buses run most of the time full and sometimes is difficult to get a seat. The trip takes at least 4 hours as the bus stop every time that someone in the road side is waiting, no mater if it is a bus stand or not!!!

There are also a/c buses that departure form Bastian Mawatha Bus Station, located in the opposite side of Central Bus Station. If you leave the train station, turn left and keep walking along that sidewalk, passing in front of a kind of street market and stall until you arrive to a more empty area; keep walking in the same direction until you see a dirty road and on your left there’s an entrance to the Bastian Mawatha Bus Station.

Here you need to find (is better just ask) for a/c bus to Kandy. There are small blue buses that usual and get quickly full, but you can wait for the next bus that don’t take more than 15 minutes to come.

[clear]

Bus Colombo Forte to Kandy: 265 LKR (almost 4 hours)

[clear]

[clear]

[clear]

[clear]

[hr]

How to go from Airport (Negombo) straight to Kandy

[clear]

If you want to go north or to east, you don’t necessarily need to go to Colombo, instead you just need to Katunayake Bus Terminal, and from there you can take a direct bus to Kandy or in the direction of Dambulla, Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, Jafna but for this destinations you must change bus (maybe more than one time) probably in Kurunegala, and later in others “unkown” cities).

The trip from Katunayake to Kandy takes more that 4 hours, and is not guarantee that you’ll have a seat.

The ticket costs 133 LKR.

[clear]

 

[clear]

[hr]

a bit about ATMs in Sri Lanka:

[clear]

The maximum amount of money in Sri Lanka ATMs is 50.000 LKR, but also depends of the maximum amount allowed to withdrawal in your country. The Portuguese bank have the maximum of 200€ per withdrawal and 400€ per day; that makes 30.000 LKR the maximum amount that you can get per withdrawal.

In Sri Lanka banks usually charge a fee 200 LKR (HNB-Hatton National Bank) to 300 LKR (Comercial Bank…for exemple).

[clear]

[hr]

Sri Lanka population: 20.5 millions

Sri Lanka Life expectancy: 74 years