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Meghalaya

Nongritat and the living root bridges

Magic. Dream. Unreal.

Words that show up in my mind when I recall Nongriat.

Nongriat
Nongriat

 

The rain, though predictable, unexpectedly began as we start the descent to the village of Nongriat, forcing to some breaks for tea and rest in modest bamboo huts. But what was coming to be an inconvenience proved to be a blessing, with the vegetation gaining a glow that gives greater vividness and contrast to the green nuances that fill entirely the horizon.

As the sound of drops of rain goes away, turn the shy sounds of the jungle, with an invisible orchestra formed by frogs and insects. Mosses and lichens show with all its power, absorbing water drops that slowly give off the bamboo leaves, which seem to bend under the weight of water.

a caminho de Nongriat
on the way to Nongriat

 

a caminho de Nongriat
on the way to Nongriat

 

a caminho de Nongriat
on the way to Nongriat

 

Despite having lost the title of rainiest place in the world, resulting from the persistent deforestation, both to feed the timber industry or as fuel for the local population, Nongriat and the surrounding region of Mawsynram and Cherrapunjee in East Khasi Hills, continue to show a high rainfall. Even out of the monsoon (July and August) heavy rains are frequent, which during the so-called dry season only lasts a few minutes. From this semi-tropical climate, resulting in a lush and diverse vegetation: giant trees, palm trees, bamboos, ferns and ficus, whose aerial roots are indispensable to the construction of footbridges, which make so many people come to Nongriat.

Nongriat. Megahlaya

 

Nongriat
Nongriat

 

bay leaves porter. Nongriat

 

Nongriat. Megahlaya

 

 The night arrives early in the valley, with green slopes and be lost as the blue sky surrenders to the night, leaving the village in almost total darkness, interrupted here and there by the faint glow of electricity that reaches every home. It’s this darkness that makes me realize how far I’m from the so-called civilization and how comfortable can be this simple and modest lifestyle, where the contact with nature brings a deep calm and tranquility.

Enjoying the freshness brought by night, we are naturally invited to share the calm evening with the other guests, surrounded by the dark cloak of night. But an unexpected glow, with an unusual intensity, emerges from behind the mountains, drawing ever more clearly the top of the contours of the hilltop, in the opposite of the village. It is the show of moonrise, that here with the full moon night, offers a magical view that makes all people stare, creating a space of quietness in the cross talk of the guests.

 

Kashi Hills. Megahlaya

 

Nongriat is one of the hundreds of villages that are located on the slopes of the East Kashi Hills, and due to the isolation remain the traditional way of life of Kashi tribe almost intact. A lifestyle based on collecting product directly in the forest and sold them in Sohra market, that attracts people from that region every Wednesday. The forest provides pepper, bay leaf, betel nut, cinnamon, lemon juice… pineapples grow spontaneously a little everywhere, jackfruit abounds in the tree trunks, and around the village there’s beehive whose honey is also a business that supports the local economy. Porters go up and down the slopes bringing forest products and return with food and other products necessary for the simple life of this population of 150 people, where apparently the majority are children.

Nongriat. Megahlaya

 

Porter carrying bay leaves picket at the forest to be sold at Sohra weekly market

 

Vila de Nongriat
Nongriat village

 

It’s the laugh of children in their restless plays that fills the air of the village, where is strange the absence of birds, monkeys and other animals. Early morning, in upright school uniform, the children forward to the village primary school, while the older ones need to climb the slope to take classes in Tyrna and Sohra. Despite the isolation and rural environment of this region, which could lead to a lack of interest in school, education is taken very seriously, with virtually all children going to school and learn English, language that is spoken by the majority of the population, even in the most remote villages as Sohra.

The Christian church is also a strong presence here in Megahlaya, that due to the remote location, as well as Nagaland, remained impervious to Hinduism, but could not resist the Christianization in the nineteenth century, during the British presence in India, imposed by missionaries that found here a fertile ground between an animist population.

But Nongriat has more attractive than only the living root bridges, with several paths leaving from the village, some towards neighbouring village, who also hide other living bridges, others toward the waterfalls, being the Rainbow Waterfall the most popular destination. For those who want to bathe in the clear waters of this cascade, of an unusual blue, have to go down a steep path, but along the way, as well as in other parts of the rivers that surround Nongriat are several natural pools formed by granitic rocks along river bed, providing clear and calm waters for a refreshing bath, relieving the heaviness from warm and moist tropical air. During the monsoon is not allowed bathing in the river due to the force of the water.

 

uma das pontes suspensas junto à aldeia de Nongriat que dá acesso às Rainbow falls
suspension bridge along the way from Nongriat to the Rainbow falls

 

Rainbow falls. Nongriat. Megahlaya

 

Nongriat. Megahlaya

Hiking to Nongriat. practical information:

 

  • all the way is done along a very clear path, made in cement stairs that have fairly regular steps and it’s in good condition, as the result of financial funds to support the agricultural development of the region;
  • the descent is all done in steps until you reach the valley which then forces you to go through some metal suspension bridges; there are between 2500-3000 steps until Nongriat;
  • the descent is not difficult, but the hot and humid climate, causing a constant perspiration, make the most tiring journey;
  • the climb up is intense, forcing a few stops that are always a good time to enjoy the view; enough water is required in particular for the ascending path;
  • the descent takes less than 1.5 hours, with some stops for enjoying the views and rest, but the way up can take almost the doubled;
  • recommended to take the minimum weight in the backpack, it is advisable to leave most of the luggage at the guest house in Sohra.
  • if it rains a raincoat doesn’t prove to be effective because it causes, even more, sweat; it is better to have quickly dry clothes;
  • You do not need special shoes, some comfortable sandals serve perfectly, as all the way is cemented.
  • after Nongritat, if you wish to explore surrounding villages, hiking shoes may be more comfortable, but the sandals cover the needs if they have good grip in wet conditions;
  • it is recommended to stay at least one night Nongriat, to have the chance of visit more bridges, waterfalls and natural pools, away from the busiest trail;
  • during the weekend the number of visitors significantly increases, so it is best to arrive on Sunday and leave on the next Saturday morning, avoiding the noise and confusion and the view of the trash caused by irresponsible visitors who blindly seek “double deck bridge” just for the perfect selfie, totally unaware of the environment!!!

 

caminho para Nongriat
caminho para Nongriat

 

Where to stay in Nongriat:

There are three homestays in Nongriat. The first is at the entrance of the village, after crossing one of the living root bridges, one in the center of Nongriat, and the last is located just after crossing the double deck bridge. The Serene Homestay is the most popular and which offers better conditions. There are double rooms and shared room, but all have shared toilet outside. Dinner is prepared for all guests and for everyone else that ordered, served in buffet style, with delicious vegetarian food made by the owner and his wife.

The Serene Homestay

Bed: 200 rupees per person, regardless of double or shared room.

Dinner: 130 rupees

The owner Ryan is a good source of information about trails, pools and other villages and bridges in the valley, as also about the way of life and local culture. His environmental awareness and good English make Ryan the spokesman of Nongriat and neighbouring villages, who come together to prevent the government to open a road to the valley. This so-called “progress” would destabilize the socio-economic way of life and would have environmental consequences resulting from the increase in visitors.

Serene Homestay, em Nongriat
Serene Homestay, em Nongriat

 

Serene Homestay, em Nongriat
Serene Homestay, em Nongriat

 

Where to eat in Nongritat:

Any of homestays in Nongriat serves food as well as the huts near the two roots bridge existing in Nongriat. However, it is a very simple food, mainly rice and dal… and chicken.

The best option is the Serene Homestay, with vegetarian food. The breakfast with porridge, fruit and nuts are delicious. Dinner (130 rupees) is served in buffet style, both for homestay guests as for who order in advance, and it is a great opportunity to socialize with other travelers.

 

pequeno-almoço no Serene Homestay, em Nongriatpequeno-almoço no Serene Homestay, em Nongriat

How to go from Sohra (Cherrapunjee) to Nongriat:

In front of the By the Way Lodge, there is a bus stand where around 9 am stops a bus bound for Tyrna, the nearest town of Nongriat with road access … from now on there are only paths down the mountain slopes to the villages located along the valley.

  • Bus Sohra to Tyrna (20 rupees) passes around 9 am, the trip takes about 1 hour)
  • shared-taxi Sohra to Tyrna: 40 rupees
  • in Tyrna is necessary to walk the road to find the path that leads to Nongriat, about 30 minutes walk down the road. Just go asked for “Nongriat” the local population because everyone knows the way, even the children.
  • Coming to a small cluster of houses, where there is a shop chai made in bamboo, the trail to Nongriat is on the left side that second account has more than 2,800 steps and a few suspension bridges until reaching Nongriat.

 

Bus de Sohra para Tyrna
Bus de Sohra para Tyrna

 

Tyrna
Tyrna

Cherrapunjee… the wettest place on earth?!

Cherrapunjee or Sohra?!?!?!?… the first name is the “official” and is the one on the maps, the second name is by which this village, situated on a plateau near the Khasi Hills, is known by the local population, belonging to Khasi tribe.

At this time of year, when the monsoon rains are a distant memory, only streams slide the bedrock of this plateau, where the green grass surrenders to dryness, changing to yellow tones.

After leaving behind the gray city of Shillong, and traveling by the winding road of rural landscapes and mountains of profuse vegetation, where we witness the bucolic but hard rural life, one comes to the desolate village of Sohra. The arrival on Sunday morning, with the sky covered with a soft blanket of gray clouds, the shops closed, streets empty of people and roads deserted of traffic, left a gloomy impression that even the next day, with the sun shining in a blue sky, could not erase.

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Sohra (Cherrapunjee)
Sohra (Cherrapunjee)

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Sohra
Sohra (Cherrapunjee)

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Sohra (Cherrapunjee)
Sohra (Cherrapunjee)

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In a region heavily dominated by Christianity, in different forms, Christians, Anglicans, Protestants, Evangelicals, Presbyterians, etc…, the Sunday is entirely reserved for church. By midmorning, the deserted streets of Sohra, are gaining some colorful, with people walking towards the various churches in fancy clothes, where men dress impeccably ironed shirts, women wear lungis made from sophisticated fabrics, girls wear proudly pompous and colorful dresses and hair carefully combed, with fancy ties.

Situated on a plateau of the Khasi Hills, about 1400 meters above sea level, Sohra suffers from desertification, in an area where agriculture is difficult in a field depleted by erosion resulting from logging, which caused already visible climate change that made this place, formerly called “wettest place on earth,” has lost this title.

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Kashi festival, Sohra (Cherrapunjee)
Kashi festival, Sohra (Cherrapunjee)

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However Shora is obligatory passage point for those exploring the slopes of the Khasi Hills, and also serves as a technical stopover for those who want to come down to the valleys, where inhabitants keep the traditional way of life of Khasi culture. The village of Nogriat stands out by the fantastic bridges made from living tree roots: the living root bridges.

There is little to do or see in Sohra, but the day can be used for a visit to Nohkalikai Falls, 5 kilometers Sohra Market. In April, the amount of water in the rivers is not abundant, but still, a visit to the falls provides an interesting walk and a view of the chain of hills that extends to the Bangladesh border.

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Nohkalikai Falls. Sohra (Cherrapunjee)
Nohkalikai Falls. Sohra (Cherrapunjee)

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Nohkalikai Falls. Sohra (Cherrapunjee)
Nohkalikai Falls. Sohra (Cherrapunjee)

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The stay of a day Sohra gave the opportunity to watch the last three days of a festival, where children and adults, wearing traditional costumes, performed dances to the sound of a minimalist and repetitive music.

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Kashi festival, Sohra (Cherrapunjee)
Kashi festival, Sohra (Cherrapunjee)

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Kashi festival, Sohra (Cherrapunjee)
Kashi festival, Sohra (Cherrapunjee)

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Kashi festival, Sohra (Cherrapunjee)
Kashi festival, Sohra (Cherrapunjee)

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Nohkalikai Falls:

Ticket: 10 rupees + 20 rupees for camera.

There isn’t a public transportation to the waterfalls, so the option is to get a taxi (300 rupees) or try to hitchhiking.

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Tarifas. Nohkalikai Falls. Sohra (Cherrapunjee)
Entry fees to Nohkalikai Falls. Sohra (Cherrapunjee)

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Onde dormir em Sohra:

There are several options in terms of accommodation in Sohra, but most are located in Lower Cherrapunjee, in an area where the houses are a bit spread, about 3 kilometers from Sohra Market, the town center.

Of the various accommodations available the choice was for the unassuming By the Way Lodge, where the owner, who looks more like a Rastafarian, welcomes us with kindness, providing all the information.

There are two dorms and a few rooms. The toilet and shower (with hot water) are shared and located outside the room, as the local custom, but are modern and spotlessly clean. There’s a good atmosphere and is the ideal place to meet other backpackers and rest, before and after, the demanding way to Nongriat. You can leave part of the luggage at the By the Way Lodge.

By the Way Lodge (Dukan Road, Lower Cherrapunjee). Nearby Indian Petrol Pump station. Less than 500 meters from the last sumo stand.

Dorm: 250 rupees

The By the way hostel is located close to India Petrol pump station. Less than 500 meters from the last stop of sumo in Lower Cherrapunjee.

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By the Way Backpackers Hostel. Sohra (Cherrapunjee)
By the Way Backpackers Hostel. Sohra (Cherrapunjee)

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By the Way Backpackers Hostel. Sohra (Cherrapunjee)
By the Way Backpackers Hostel. Sohra (Cherrapunjee)

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Lower Cherrapunjee does not have much to offer than some restaurants and accommodations, but is a large area of natural landscape, that right after the monsoon is totally green and crossed by streams, but in March starts to get dry. But the By the Way Lodge and the friendliness of its owner are more than enough reasons to choose to stay in Lower Cherrapunjee before going to Nongriat.

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Where to eat in Sohra (Cherrapunjee):

Meghalaya cuisine, not being friendly to vegetarians, is possible to find the traditional dishes of Indian cuisine, as also some Asian vegetarian option the Lower Cherrapunjee restaurants.

7 Trep Restaurant: Good Indian food. A curry with a rich variety of vegetables served in a generous portion and served with a big bowl of rice only costs 70 rupees. The noodles and momos are the favorites of the local population. The food is cooked at the moment, which may take a while. The staff is very friendly.

Sunday everything is closed in Sohra Market, but some restaurants are open in Lower Cherrapunjee.

But for those who want to get an early start, there are few options for breakfast. There a few small shops, a mixture of coffee and groceries, serving milk-tea and meals, based mainly on rice and meat, from 8.30 in the morning.

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um restaurante local em Sohra (Cherrapunjee)
local restaurant, Sohra (Cherrapunjee)

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pequeno-almoço num restaurante local em Sohra (Cherrapunjee)
rice and chickpeas as a breakfast at a local restaurant, Sohra (Cherrapunjee)

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Transports in Sohra (Cherrapunjee):

To cover the three kilometers separating Lower Cherrapunjee from Sohra Market there are shared-taxis (locally called “tempo”) picking up and dropping passengers, along the road, without any specific place. Usually you have to wait until they are nearly full to do the trip. The tempo are small cars (Maruti Suzuki) painted in black and yellow.

  • Shared taxis Lower Cherrapunjee to Sohra Market: 10 INR

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paragem de "sumos" em Lower Cherrapunjee
“sumo” stand at Lower Cherrapunjee

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How to go from Sohra (Cherrapunjee) to Nongriat:

In front of the By the Way Lodge, there is a bus stand where the 9 am passes a bus bound for Tyrna, the nearest town of Nongriat with road access… from there are only paths down the mountain to the villages located along the valley.

  • Bus Sohra to Tyrna 20 (INR passes around 9 am, the trip takes close to 1 hour)
  • shared-taxi Sohra to Tyrna: 40 INR
  • in Tyrna is necessary to walk the road to find the path that leads to Nongriat, about 30 minutes walk down the road. Just asked for “Nongriat” to the local population because everyone knows to show the way, even the children.
  • arriving to a small group of houses where there is a bamboo chai-shop, the trail to Nongriat, that has more than 2,800 steps and a few suspension bridges until reaching the village.

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ATM in Sohra:

There is no ATM in Lower Cherrapunjee, next to the petrol station, on the Dukan Road, as well as in Sohra Market.

There is no ATM in Tyrna or Nongriat.

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How to go from Sohra (Cherrapunjee) to Shilllong:

Both in Lower Cherrapunjee as in Sohra Market, sumos (shared jeeps with yellow color) link daily (except Sundays) Sohra to Shillong. They work from dawn until the end of the day. The trip starts when the tempo is full.

  • sumo from Sohra to Shillong: 70 INR (1.5 hours)

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elevation: 1484 m

population: 14.816

Shillong… arriving to the “abode of the clouds”

Being Shillong the capital of the Indian state of Meghalaya, which literally means “abode of the clouds” due to high rainfall, I was received by a grey clouds that in a few minutes became a storm, with the dark sky to light up with the sound of thundering, lowering the temperature and reminding us how unpredictable is the climate in mountain areas. After the storm was time to walk through the city center looking for budget accommodation. A task that has proved exasperating, similar to what had happened in Guwahati: many hotels don’t allow foreigners, it was weekend and Shillong attract people looking for fresh air, and some event that brought many visitors from the rest of India.

After the round the various hotels where the answer was almost always “full”, even when apparently the place was desert, finally comes up to a site – Marwari Basa Hotel – modest and reasonably priced, yet little warm considering the weather in Shillong. Followed another round, always trough the steep streets of the city, which proved fruitless, due to inflated prices and by the usual response of “full” in places that don’t have a license to host foreigners. Accepting the defeat, with fatigue making the legs heavy but with high morale, it was time to return Marwari Basa Hotel, that despite all show to be the best option… but to my astonishment, arriving at reception I’m received with discouraging “full”… how is it possible?!?!? 15 minutes before there more than ten rooms empty?!?!? Faced with the situation that it was obvious that there were no guests there, the owner has agreed to provide me a room, but at twice the price !!! Faced with such an unpleasant and idiot attitude, I turn back and restart my search. But this time, the reasonable knowledge acquired from the city center, allowed me to find a “cubicle” where to sleep, too expensive but comfortable and using the manager words “more or less clean”!

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Medidnfo dioptrias no Police Bazaar. Shillong
need glasses?!?!?…. at Police Bazaar. Shillong

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Shillong, the state capital of Meghalaya, due to the fresh and mild climate of the mountains attracts the inhabitants of the neighboring state of Assam, seeking relief from the scorching heat of the plains, in a city that is less than 3 hours from Guwahati.

Here the urban atmosphere wins an exotic touch by the presence of the inhabitants from the local tribes, the Kashi and the Garo, whose Mongols faces with fair skin, small and with a different outfit, easily stand out from the rest of the Indian population.

From the supposed atmosphere of British colonial times, that choose this place because of the fresh climate, little left in this concrete city, perched on a hilltop, and spread by the surrounding slopes. Here and there appear houses whose architecture reveals links to Europe, by the large windows, porches and gardens, but where the typical roofs, quite inclined and with complex configuration, were being replaced by the rusty color of metal rooftops.

The city center, locally designated Police Bazaar, surrounded by gray concrete buildings and a nearby roundabout, that link several main roads permanently busy, with heavy traffic, noisy and polluted, particularly the GS Road. Surprisingly the commercial area of the city has become modern and cosmopolitan with many shops selling the most popular international brands of clothing, which is reflected in the way of dressing of the younger population, which fully adopted the Western style.

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Police Street. Shillong
Police Street. Shillong

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Apart from this cosmopolitan area, located near the Police Bazaar, Shillong has other shopping areas, less sophisticated but more stimulating.

Wandering by gray and sad streets of decaying buildings along dirty and muddy streets we arrive at the Bara Bazaar (also called Bar bazaar). A market where is sold a bit of everything, where small shops align along narrow and winding streets, and whose merchandise extends beyond the limits of the shop, making even more difficult to walk along the crowded streets.

Bara Bazaar. Shillong
Bara Bazaar. Shillong

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Bara Bazaar. Shillong
Bara Bazaar. Shillong

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A vibrant and lively market, the Bara Bazaar is a good first contact with the population of the Kashi tribe, which dominates the hills of this area of Meghalaya state, and gather here to sell and purchase products, ranging from traditional artifacts to modern clothes, from plastic toys to farming tools, from homemade cakes to wild mushrooms!

Women from Kashi tribe, in addition to facial features, are easily identified by the outfit using a cloth, usually of chess pattern, which is fastened in the shoulder, covering the western style clothes that almost everybody dress.

Wandering through the market streets, the attention is diverted to the variety and originality of the food available so that from time to time one foot slips into a muddy hollow of the pavement. Here and there resemble curious and smiling eyes, in round faces that don’t allow photos.

Shillong
Shillong

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Shillong
Shillong

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Where to stay in Shillong:

There are lots of choices for accommodation, but the prices are too high for the conditions offered, with hotels more focused in Indian family style tourism and in businessmen, and not so much for backpackers. There are no proper guesthouses, but just hotels. Shillong is a popular weekend destination for Indian tourists from West Bengal state.

Near the Police Bazaar, along the GS Road, and on the back alleys Police Street, there are several options:

Marwari Basa Hotel: single 300 INR, double 600 INr, shared toilet. The rooms are very basic but with good light, all with shared bathroom. The building is old, entrenched between concrete buildings but has some charm. It lies between the GS Road (which is well labeled) and the Police Street, a narrow street that connects the two main arteries of the city, away from the GS Road noise. The owner’s son, apparently the boss, is very unfriendly.

Hotel Lamlyn (GS Road) single with toilet: 600 INR. Staff friendly but with a noisy environment. Some rooms have no window, as is the case of the individual room. Reasonably clean, with a modern en-suite and hot shower.

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Hotel Lamlyn... "more or less clean sheets" using the word of the owner. Shillong
Hotel Lamlyn… “more or less clean sheets” using the word of the owner. Shillong

 

Apparently, there is a Youth Hostel in Shillong but couldn’t find or get any information.

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Onde comer em Shillong:

In Shillong stand the Indian food restaurants, from the most modest to the most sophisticated.

But the choice was for the momos, a obvious Asian influence, in a small and humble restaurant in the pedestrian streets that linking GS Road and the Police Street (AC Lane). Only momos are served there, vegetarians and with meat, and a soup, a thick chicken broth, with a meal costing only 40 rupees. The restaurant is open all day, but closes early, shortly after the setting of the sun, which here is ore or less, 5 pm.

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momos restaurant. Shillong
momos restaurant. Shillong

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momos restaurant. Shillong
Vegetarian momos at Shillong

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In Bara Bazaar there are some restaurants, and along the streets is possible to find vendors, some with the delicious coconut cakes, steamed, that are a specialty from the neighbouring village of Sohra.

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Transport in Shillong:

There are little to see in Shillong, and the center of the city can be done on foot, but all the streets are steep. The Police Bazaar Street is the most enjoyable for walking because it’s closed to traffic.

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How to go from Shillong to Sohra (Cherrapunjee):

Few buses run on Saturdays in Meghalaya. No public or private buses to Sohra (Cherrapunjee) on Sundays; the only alternative is the sumo (shared taxis) or a taxi. On Sunday, there is no public transport in Meghalaya.

Anyway, sumos or buses depart from the same place, a bus terminal located near the Bara Bazaar. This terminal, a seemingly unfinished concrete building, are on the first-floor sumos to Sohra, that runs all day, since 6 a.m. and depart when they are full (11 passengers).

  • sumo (shared taxi) from Shillong to Sohra: 70 INR

The journey takes 1.5 hours. The view is beautiful and should seat on the left side of the vehicle, near the window. The sumo makes the first stop in Sohra Market, and the second stop in Lower Cherrapunjee, where is most of the lodgings and restaurants, and is what you might call tourist area.

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"sumo" terminal. Bara Bazaar. Shillong
“sumo” terminal. Bara Bazaar. Shillong

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"sumo" para Sohra. Bara Bazaar. Shillong
“sumo” para Sohra. Bara Bazaar. Shillong

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How to go from Shillong to Guwahati:

Buses connecting Shillong to Guwahati depart from Bus Station that is located on GS Road, less than 5 minutes from the main roundabout. Directly opposite the station is an official Tourist Office, but little has interests because the maps provided are vague and has little information. But this Tourist Office can be useful for those who want to rent a vehicle with driver.

  • Bus ticket from Shillong to Guwahati: 135 rupees (4h)

Alternatively, you can make this trip in less time using a sumo (shared taxi). The sumo runs from Guwahati Keating Road, one of the roads out of the main roundabout.

  • sumo Shillong to Guwahati: 170 rupees (the journey takes at least about 2.45pm, depending on traffic)

 

elevation: 1525 m

population: 132.867

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