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Stepping Out Of Babylon

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Yazd

Things not to miss in Iran

Tehran

… The secret parties taking place in apartments by the city of Tehran, in a country where almost everything that is synonymous of party is prohibited.

 

Kashan

… The small town of smiling and kind population, which in addition to palaces, gardens and historic houses, offers a bazaar of beautiful architecture.

Kashan Bazaar
Kashan Bazaar

 

Kashan Bazaar
Kashan Bazaar

Esfahan

… The bridges over the River Zayandeh that even without water still provide a magical atmosphere with the approach of the sunset.

Esfahan. Bridges over Zayandeh river
Esfahan. Bridges over Zayandeh river

 

Esfahan. Bridges over Zayandeh river
Esfahan. Bridges over Zayandeh river

Persepolis

… The ruins of an extinct civilization, that despite the many visitors still mirror the greatness of an empire that is the heart of Persia.

Persepolis
Persepolis

 

Persepolis
Persepolis

Shiraz

… The atmosphere of Masoleum of Hafez (Aramgah-e Hafez) in a mixture of religious devotion, intellectual respect and artistic mystique that is still given to this poet.

Yazd. Mausoleum of Hafez (Hafez Tomb)
Yazd. Mausoleum of Hafez (Hafez Tomb)

Yazd

… By Dakhme hills (Towers of Silence), where the bodies of Zoroastrianism followers, religion originated in Persia, were left to be eaten by vultures so as not to defile the sacred elements such as fire, water, earth and air.

Yazd. Dakhme
Yazd. Dakhme

 

Yazd. Dakhme
Yazd. Dakhme

Bazaars

… The best were the Tabriz by the atmosphere and the Kashan by the architecture of the building and the sidewalk terrace.

Tabriz Bazaar
Tabriz Bazaar

 

Kashan Bazaar. Rooftop
Kashan Bazaar. Rooftop

 

… And people! The generosity and the kindness.

 

 

… For an upcoming trip:

  • Travel by train to Tehran to Ahvaz crossing the Zharkouh Mountains
  • Visit the villages in Kaluts region where Balochi keep alive their culture and ethnic identity
  • Explore the Persian Gulf, especially Qeshm Island
  • The city of Mashhad
  • Crossing the Dasht-e Lut (Lut Desert)

Ashura Festival… and one day Iran woke mourning!

Shortly after my to Iran, arrival at the beginning of October, I noticed at various cities some shops dedicated to the sale of flags and banners dominated by the black colour, with Arabic inscriptions. From day to day it seemed that these shops increased in number or simply just became more evident, in the bazaars and city streets, exposing also more goods that also included scarves, pants, shirts and veils.

But it was on the second day after arrival in Kashan, when the moon is no longer visible in the sky, that I felt that something had changed in the city… streets decorated with banners, bazaars corridors decorated with flags, all invariably black with green or red inscriptions, many women in chador, men in black shirt… a kind of collective mourning. It was the beginning of Muharram the first month of the Islamic calendar that begins with the new moon, making the dates movable in the Gregorian calendar.

Muharram is the second most sacred celebration for Muslims after the Ramadan, and for the Shiites (Shia) sect has a special meaning as in the 10th day of Muharram, the Ashura Day, is celebrated the death of Hussein (Husayn or Hossein), grandson of Muhammad and one of the 12 Imams (sort of saints or apostles of Muslim religion) the prophet’s successors.

In the year 680 AD, Imam Hussein and 72 of his followers were surrounded for nine days, going through suffering without food and water, been killed on the 10th day at the Battle of Karbala and the survivors imprisoned. This episode, seen as a struggle between good, Hussein, and evil, personified by Caliph Yazid I that commanding Arab troops invaded Persia, marks the split between the Muslim Sunnis (Sunni) and Shiites (Shia).

These events occurred 1335 years ago, are celebrated in a intense and emotional way with the manifestations of grief and pain become more intense, more strict black clothes for both men and women, processions, weeping and crying, beating with the hand in the chest, and with the men carrying heavy floats over the head or shoulders, or practicing self-flagellation with chains that are thrown on the shoulders against the back during processions.

The last three days are the most important; feeling tension in the air with the arrival of dusk, when the celebrations starts, on the streets or in mosques, reaching its peak in the tenth day, Day of Ashura, which means “tenth”.

During the days before the Ashura, songs related to the martyrdom of Hussein, sung as a lament, following the rhythm of the drums beat, spread in the streets, coming from shops, cars or houses. The same rhythm that drives the night ceremonies, of chest beating and shooting currents; an intense and heavy rhythm, and a male dominated ceremony where women have a secondary place.

All this devotion, were is not unusual for people to cry, the songs like wails, the black that dominates the decor and the clothes, the excitement and intensity placed in the ceremonies, create an extremely intense and emotional atmosphere that can only be experienced on site. According to tradition who shed tears during Ashura, have their wishes fulfilled by Imam Hussein, and it is not uncommon to see men cry following the words of a speaker who chantings recounts the martyrdom of Hussein.

A quick look can see all these exaggerated manifestations with religious fanaticism, but what I felt was a deep and honest devotion… with a hint of competitiveness and even exhibitionism in the way young men beat their chests, knowing that are observed by women at the masque galleries.

The day after the Ashura, carried out the Ashura Carnival: a parade were groups of people and cars show the various episodes of the martyrdom of Hussein and his followers. At the end of this procession resembles a carnival parade, but instead of fun dominates a serious atmosphere of sorrow, but already away from the intensity of the previous day.

The celebrations end on that same night with the people gathering at mosques and squares elsewhere in the city of Yazd, where he watched the last days of Ashura, to light candles which gives a special atmosphere of calm and serenity.

The Ashura is celebrated all over the world where you are presented with a Shiite community, and the celebrations in Iran much more moderate than is often found in images from other countries like Pakistan or Iraq where the self-flagellation of practice is taken to extreme, causing serious wounds in participating, attitude condemned by many religious. Iran this practice is forbidden, and despite the ills left by the violent beating of hands against his chest, and shoot chains against the back, does not reach exaggerated proportions or trance states, with the population showing restrained, despite the bustle and excitement that sits in the air.

Being in Iran during Ashura, by chance, was certainly a unique, intense and unforgettable experience, while at the same time been a period a bit “heavy” resulting from all solemnity and austerity that has spread among the population, that not so let him show the usual generosity and sympathy.

Decorações do Ashura à venda n uma loja junto ao Grand Bazar de Theran
Ashura decorations in a shop near the Tehran Grand Bazar

 

Procissão nos primeiros dia do Ashura. Shiraz
Procession in Shiraz streets on the first days of Ashura celebrations

 

Procissão nos primeiros dia do Ashura. Shiraz
Procession in Shiraz street on the first days of Ashura celebrations

 

Procissão nos primeiros dia do Ashura. Shiraz
Procession in Shiraz streets

 

Procissão nos primeiros dia do Ashura. Shiraz
Procession in Shiraz streets

 

Correntes usadas na autoflagelação à venda no bazar de Shiraz
Chains used for self-flagelation during the celebrations of Ashura in a bazar shop at Shiraz

 

Comemorações do Ashura pela comunidade Iraquiana, em que pesadas estruturas metálicas são transportadas. Yazd
Celebrations of Ashura by the Iraquian community at Yazd

 

Comemorações do Ashura pela comunidade Iraquiana. Yazd
Celebrations of Ashura by the Iraquian community at Yazd

 

Ashura numa pequena mesquita na Old City de Yazd
Ashura at a small mosque in Old City at Yazd

 

Ashura_Yazd_DSC_3998
Ashura Day. Yazd

 

Ashura_Yazd_DSC_3947
Ashura Day. Yazd

 

Ashura Carnival
Ashura Carnival

 

Ashura Carnival
Ashura Carnival

 

Ashura Carnival
Ashura Carnival

 

Ashura Candle Ceremony. Yazd
Sham-e Ghariban. Ashura Candle Ceremony. Yazd

 

Ashura Candle Ceremony. Yazd
Sham-e Ghariban. Ashura Candle Ceremony. Yazd

 

Ashura Candle Ceremony. Yazd
Sham-e Ghariban. Ashura Candle Ceremony. Yazd

During these days it is offered tea in small stalls improvised a bit all over the place, and sometimes is also offered food, as Gheimeh a lamb stew, with lentils and vegetables served with rice and Sholehzard, a rice pudding with saffron. Other traditional meal is the ash soup, with lamb that is cooked by volunteers all night, getting ready the next morning for being distributed on breakfast.

Durante so 10 dias que decorrem as celebrações do Ashura, um pouco por toda o lado surgem quiosques que oferecem chá, e por vezes doces, tâmaras, refeições, pão... é tradicional a oferta de comida durante estes dias
During 10 days, small stalls offer tea, dates, sweets and sometimes meals, as tradition during the Ashura

 

Gheimeh
Gheimeh, traditional Ashura meal

 

Preparação da sopa "ash" na noite do Ashura para ser consumida na manhã seguinte ao pequeno almoço
Preparing the ash soup, during Ashura night, to be served in the next morning as breakfast

 

During Ashura, in particular in the last 3 days:

The last three days most of the shops are closed, including banks, exchange shops, restaurants, grocery stores, etc… yet lots of food is distributed free during the celebrations near the mosques, at some shops, bakeries or by local people. As alternative just left the hotel restaurants.

Many bus services, both local and long distance are canceled.

Should dress modestly, avoiding shiny or light colors clothing, special inside or nearby the mosques… but for tourists these rules are always more loose.

As it is a period of grief and mourning, should be avoided public show of great enthusiasm, dancing, listen to music, laugh out loud …

 

Imam Hussein Fan Club:

The Ashura is celebrated across Iran, in cities as in small towns, and celebrations can be seen both on city streets or mosques, being the free access. Inside the mosques the men can stay in the main ground, but the women usually must go to galleries on upper floor or stay in reserved areas on the back of the mosque.

A bit by chance, I joined a group called Imam Hussein Fan Club, which no commercial intentions organized tour for tourists present in Yazd, during the last days of Ashura. This group, made up of tourist guides had also the aim to encourage the so-called “religious tourism” and above all promoting Iran in terms of tourism, tried to clean the image of Islamic radicals that often this country is cataloged.

An excellent organization that provided access to reserved areas at the mosques, transportation to visit other ways to celebrate Ashura away from the center of Yazd, and even some meals. However, all this organization offers little space to anyone wandering on their own, with the various elements of the organization not giving much freedom of movement.

Calendário de eventos organizado pelo grupo "Imam Hussein Fan Club"
Schedule of the events organized by “Imam Hussein Fan Club”

Yazd and Zoroastrianism

The city of Yazd is clearly associated with Zoroastrianism, dominant religious worship in Persia until the Arab invasion, which brought the Muslim religion around 633 AD.

Zoroastrianism follow the prophet Zoroaster and brings together influences of Greek culture and existing animistic religions in the region. With the arrival of the Arabs to Persia, Islam quickly replaced this religion. However there are about 30 to 100 thousand followers, mainly in the region of Tehran and Yazd.

The Zoroastrian symbol, faravahar (or fravahr), present in Persepolis ruins and which in a way is also adopted as symbol of Persia, represents the principles and teachings of the prophet Zoroaster: good thoughts, good words, good deeds.

  • The figure of the old bearded man represents wisdom, experience and maturity of an elder;
  • The raised right hand indicates that there is only one way forward in life, and that is the path of righteousness;
  • The ring on the left hand represents loyalty and fidelity, basic principles of the Zoroastrian religion;
  • The wings, divide in three lines represent the three basic principles “good thoughts, good words, good deeds” that enable the advancement and progress;
  • The ring in the center symbolizes the eternity of the universe, the immortality of the spirit and the eternal nature of the soul, having no beginning or end, like a circle.
  • The tail, divided into three lines, is “bad thoughts, bad words and bad deeds” that cause suffering and misery to humans;
  • The two ropes together to tail represent the good and evil spirits, the forces of good and evil.

 

faravahar
faravahar, symbol of Zoroastrianism as also of Persia

From Zoroastrianism last in Yazd the legacy of Ateshkadeh, the Sacred Fire, a flame that is kept burning for over 540 years, and that have been in different locations until in 1931 was built in Yazd the Fire Temple.

 

Ateshkadeh o Fogo Sagrada (Fire Temple) que está nestet edificio desde 1931, apesar de ser mantida acesa à 475 anos
Fire Temple

 

Ateshkadeh o Fogo Sagrada (Fire Temple
Ateshkadeh, the Sacred Fire

 

Ateshkadeh o Fogo Sagrada (Fire Temple
Fire Temple

The fire as well as water, air and earth are sacred elements for Zoroastrian religion, which means that the bodies are not buried or cremated to avoid contamination of elements of earth and air. Thus, at funeral ceremonies the bodies were left in specific locations to be consumed by vultures. Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence) is one of these sites dating from 5AC and was used until the 60s, when the bodies of the Zoroastrianism followers start to be buried in concrete urns in a nearby cemetery. The site comprises two hills easily reached, where at the top, secured by a circular stonewall is a concavity where the bodies were deposited.

Despite the simplicity of the place, reigns a solemn atmosphere illuminated by the last day of sunshine, offers an unforgettable image.

Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)
Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)

 

Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)
Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)

 

Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)
Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)

 

Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)
Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)

 

Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)
Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)

 

Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)
Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)

Tickets:

  • Fire Temple (Ateshkadeh): 50,000 rials
  • Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence): is being built a wall around the space, is now charged admission ticket in Dakhmeh; however you can walk a little toward the left side to get around the wall and access the East tower in an existing path, a little harder than the main path; from the East tower can get off the normal route and get to the other tower.

Getting to the Fire Temple (Ateshkadeh):

The journey from Masjed-e Jameh Street to the Tempe Fire can be done on foot, taking about 45 minutes; yet within easy orientation and wide sidewalks, the route is not very attractive along big avenues with a succession of shops without interest.

Alternatively you can use one of the buses that pass Iman Khomenei Street (next to the Masjed-e Jameh Street) that pass by Behshsti Square.

Here cross the square to the bus stand located at the beginning of 10 Farvadin Street, where many buses going to Mahrab Square, stopping close to the Fire Temple entrance.

 

Getting to Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)

“Towers of Silence” is the tourist name that appears in travel guides, but it’s unknown for local people that call this place by Dakhmeh.

To get there by taxi or more economically by bus.

  • In Iman Khomenei Street, next to the Masjed-e Jameh Street is bus stop can stop many bound for Behshsti Square, but this distance can be done on foot.
  • Standing in Behshsti Square, look for the stop located at 10 Farvadin Street, spend several bus bound for Mehrab Square, where lies a small local bus terminal.
  • At the bus terminal in Mehrab Square, you must look for bus number 319 passing in Dakhmé; not worth asking for “Towers of Silence” because this name has nothing to do with the name given by local people.

Even if it is unknown the number of bus, you can always ask to people who are at the stop, or to the drivers of buses that stop by asking for “Behshsti”, “Mehrab” and “Dakhmé” … in general everybody It is willing to help!

The price of each bus ride is 5,000 rials, and is paid directly to the driver, not getting any ticket. Often they are not charged any ticket to tourists.

Mehrab: local bus terminal
Mehrab: local bus terminal

Yazd

Walking through the deserted streets of the Old City, the oldest part of Yazd, easily see the badgir, which are the mark of the city highlighting the brown uniform houses. The badgir built in adobe are part of an effective ventilation system, which allows cool down the hot outside air, caring it into the interior of the houses; these towers as also the traditional construction of the houses, with thick brick walls, covered by a clay plaster, prevent the houses of getting to worn with this hot and dry desert climate.

The clay color of the walls characterise the Old City, as well as the labyrinthine network of narrow streets that provide shade to those who venture to walk during the hours of greatest heat.

Wandering on the streets of the Old City, where the center is a mosque in blue tones whose two towers serve as a point of orientation, the Masjed-e Jameh (Jameh Mosque) we invariably arrive to the modern and wide avenues characterise the city of Yazd. In the southwestern part of the Old City is the bazaar, a succession of buildings along covered streets but that does not seem very interesting, not the architectural point of view or of marketed products.

Masjed-e Jameh. Yazd
Masjed-e Jameh. Yazd

 

Masjed-e Jameh. Yazd
Masjed-e Jameh. Yazd

 

Masjed-e Jameh. Yazd
Masjed-e Jameh. Yazd

 

Masjed-e Jameh. Yazd
Masjed-e Jameh. Yazd

 

Masjed-e Jameh. Yazd
Masjed-e Jameh. Yazd

 

Yazd
Yazd. Old City

 

Yazd
Yazd. Old City

 

Yazd
Yazd. Old City

 

Yazd
Yazd. Old City

 

Yazd
Yazd. Old City

 

Yazd_Old City_badgir_DSC_3468
Yazd Old City. badgirs

 

Yazd
Yazd

 

Yazd
Yazd

 

Yazd
Yazd

 

Yazd
Yazd

 

Yazd. Amir Chakhmaq Mosque
Yazd. Amir Chakhmaq Mosque

 

But in addition to the mosques, the Old City and Zoroastrianism, the city of Yazd is also famous for its sweets, which can be found, especially at the shops around the the Amir Chakhmaq Square. The most famous shop, according to the number of people that attracts, is the Haj Khalifeh Ali Rahbarb, located on the corner of Imam Khomeinei Square with Amir Chakhmaq Square, and is only identified in Farsi characters.

Inside, behind a long counter a dozen employees in large bustle serve customers, following a complex but effective system, where you must first write down on paper what you want to buy, delivering the order at the counter, who after weigh returns a ticket, that must be given to the cashier to pay; with the receipt you can finally receive the mysterious sweet… mysterious, because you can’t buy a single unit to try, being sold only in boxes, with the choice based on specimens exposed in shop windows, with the description and the ingredients.

The options are many, dominating the almonds, pistachios, cardamom and sugar … lots of sugar. The choice was to baklava, whose Iranian version has little to do with the Turkish counterpart, but also good.

Also very popular is the halva, a paste made of flour, oil or butter, sugar or honey; mixture which is then brought to the boil to cook. One can find different versions with pistachio, saffron, rose-water, varying in terms of consistency and flavor.

In Yazd I found the halva with tahini (sesame paste), results in a creamy delight.

Haj Khalifeh Ali Rahbar
Haj Khalifeh Ali Rahbar

 

Haj Khalifeh Ali Rahbar
Haj Khalifeh Ali Rahbar

 

Haj Khalifeh Ali Rahbar
Haj Khalifeh Ali Rahbar

 

Halva com tahini... fabulosa combinação
Halva with tahini… amazing combinations of ingredients

 

Accommodation:

Yazd is a city that attracts many tourists and is easy to find groups walking through the Old City streets or visiting the mosques. As such is the wide accommodation offer even for backpackers style, the Silk Road Grup offer three options, all with dormitory and double rooms. The Silk Road Hotel and Orient Hotel are both conveniently located near the Masjed-e Jameh, the Ols City and the bazaar, in a peaceful and quiet area.

Address: Masjed-e Jameh street, Sith Alley (are opposite each other on either side of the street)

Silk Road Hotel: 09 13151 6361

Orient Hotel: 09 37755 6264

Email: [email protected]

Dorms for 330,000 rials, including breakfast. (booking is recommended as similar to Silkroad hotel this place is listed in guide books). There are 3 different kinds dorm rooms, quiet different form each other, so is wise to have a look before you decide were to stay.

Free wi-fi

The staff speaks English fluently and was the friendliest I met in Iran.

The other alternative is the Oasis Hotel, also managed by the Silk Road Group:

Address: Seyyed Roknoddin Alley

Phone: 09 13358 4172

The choise was the Orient Hotel, which offers reasonable bedrooms, nice bathrooms, and large living space around a courtyard dominated by a tank, and a roof top were is located the restaurant. The breakfast is delicious, with small variations each day, but always with bread, eggs, tomato, cucumber, cheese, yogurt (homemade), fruits and delicious dates. The staff and extremely friendly and helpful, providing all kinds of information like move in the city and reach the places of tourist interest without resorting to organized tours. I recommend.

Orient Hotel. Yazd
Orient Hotel. Yazd

 

Orient Hotel. Yazd
Drom at Orient Hotel. Yazd

 

Orient Hotel. Yazd
Yard of Orient Hotel. Yazd

 

Orient Hotel Contacts
Orient Hotel Contacts

Where to eat:

The city is big, dispersed with wide and long avenues that makes difficult to find a specific location with a concentration of restaurants.

One option found was the restaurant Silk Road Hotel and the Orient Hotel, which serves local food, with vegetarian variations and with prices around 120,000 rials.

In terms of fast food, the falafel of the restaurant identify by the sign “Arabic Food” in Amir Chakhmaq Square (on the left who are facing the Amir Chakhmaq Mosque) was quiet good, where for 35,000 rials you can fill a baguette with falafels and a wide options of salads.

Falagel fast-food restaurant na Amir Chakhmaq Square
Falagel fast-food restaurant na Amir Chakhmaq Square

Money Exchange:

As in Iran exchange euros or dollars in banks is an unattractive solution being charged commission, the best option are the exchange shops, which generally have no commission and offer a better rate. In Imam Khomenei Street, near the Masjed-e Jameh street, (10 minutes from the Silk Road and the Orient Hotel) in front of the post office.

Travel agency:

Near the Masjed-e Jameh Street, a small, discreet door on the right side of who is going to the Orient Hotel, is a travel agency focused on selling bus and train tickets with an excellent and friendly service.

Also in Masjed-e Jameh Street, very close to the Silk Road and the Orient Hotel is ITTA travel agency, where friendly employees do everything possible to make reservations for plane tickets, train or bus, as well as sold organized tours to visit the main attractions of the city or make trips bound for Shiraz and Esfahan, stopping in major places of tourist interest.

A bit further away is another agency for those wishing to purchase tickets to pair ferry Bandar Abbas-Dubai:

Yazd Seyr Travel Agency

Address: Motahari Street (opp Nik-Poor Clinic)

Localização de uma das agências de viagem e da loja de câmbios situadas proximos do Hotel Orient e do Silk Road
Location of the travel agency as also exchange shop nearby the Hotel Orient and Silk Road hotel

Transports:

The main Bus Terminal Yazd, Imam Hussein, is more than 5 km away form the Old CIty, being necessary to use taxi. The taxi costs about 100,000 rials depending on the bargaining power. Shared-taxis can be found outside the terminal and cost about 50,000 rials; to get the better price sometimes you must wait until the taxis is full, which means 4 passengers total, but sometimes they star the ride with just a two or three and them pick more passengers on the way.

There is another local bus terminal, next to Mehrab Square, designed for urban service and serving the suburbs settlements around: here buses depart bound for Fahraj or Dakhme (Towers of Silence).

Mehrab: local bus terminal
Mehrab: local bus terminal

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