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Stepping Out Of Babylon

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Shiraz

Things not to miss in Iran

Tehran

… The secret parties taking place in apartments by the city of Tehran, in a country where almost everything that is synonymous of party is prohibited.

 

Kashan

… The small town of smiling and kind population, which in addition to palaces, gardens and historic houses, offers a bazaar of beautiful architecture.

Kashan Bazaar
Kashan Bazaar

 

Kashan Bazaar
Kashan Bazaar

Esfahan

… The bridges over the River Zayandeh that even without water still provide a magical atmosphere with the approach of the sunset.

Esfahan. Bridges over Zayandeh river
Esfahan. Bridges over Zayandeh river

 

Esfahan. Bridges over Zayandeh river
Esfahan. Bridges over Zayandeh river

Persepolis

… The ruins of an extinct civilization, that despite the many visitors still mirror the greatness of an empire that is the heart of Persia.

Persepolis
Persepolis

 

Persepolis
Persepolis

Shiraz

… The atmosphere of Masoleum of Hafez (Aramgah-e Hafez) in a mixture of religious devotion, intellectual respect and artistic mystique that is still given to this poet.

Yazd. Mausoleum of Hafez (Hafez Tomb)
Yazd. Mausoleum of Hafez (Hafez Tomb)

Yazd

… By Dakhme hills (Towers of Silence), where the bodies of Zoroastrianism followers, religion originated in Persia, were left to be eaten by vultures so as not to defile the sacred elements such as fire, water, earth and air.

Yazd. Dakhme
Yazd. Dakhme

 

Yazd. Dakhme
Yazd. Dakhme

Bazaars

… The best were the Tabriz by the atmosphere and the Kashan by the architecture of the building and the sidewalk terrace.

Tabriz Bazaar
Tabriz Bazaar

 

Kashan Bazaar. Rooftop
Kashan Bazaar. Rooftop

 

… And people! The generosity and the kindness.

 

 

… For an upcoming trip:

  • Travel by train to Tehran to Ahvaz crossing the Zharkouh Mountains
  • Visit the villages in Kaluts region where Balochi keep alive their culture and ethnic identity
  • Explore the Persian Gulf, especially Qeshm Island
  • The city of Mashhad
  • Crossing the Dasht-e Lut (Lut Desert)

Ashura Festival… and one day Iran woke mourning!

Shortly after my to Iran, arrival at the beginning of October, I noticed at various cities some shops dedicated to the sale of flags and banners dominated by the black colour, with Arabic inscriptions. From day to day it seemed that these shops increased in number or simply just became more evident, in the bazaars and city streets, exposing also more goods that also included scarves, pants, shirts and veils.

But it was on the second day after arrival in Kashan, when the moon is no longer visible in the sky, that I felt that something had changed in the city… streets decorated with banners, bazaars corridors decorated with flags, all invariably black with green or red inscriptions, many women in chador, men in black shirt… a kind of collective mourning. It was the beginning of Muharram the first month of the Islamic calendar that begins with the new moon, making the dates movable in the Gregorian calendar.

Muharram is the second most sacred celebration for Muslims after the Ramadan, and for the Shiites (Shia) sect has a special meaning as in the 10th day of Muharram, the Ashura Day, is celebrated the death of Hussein (Husayn or Hossein), grandson of Muhammad and one of the 12 Imams (sort of saints or apostles of Muslim religion) the prophet’s successors.

In the year 680 AD, Imam Hussein and 72 of his followers were surrounded for nine days, going through suffering without food and water, been killed on the 10th day at the Battle of Karbala and the survivors imprisoned. This episode, seen as a struggle between good, Hussein, and evil, personified by Caliph Yazid I that commanding Arab troops invaded Persia, marks the split between the Muslim Sunnis (Sunni) and Shiites (Shia).

These events occurred 1335 years ago, are celebrated in a intense and emotional way with the manifestations of grief and pain become more intense, more strict black clothes for both men and women, processions, weeping and crying, beating with the hand in the chest, and with the men carrying heavy floats over the head or shoulders, or practicing self-flagellation with chains that are thrown on the shoulders against the back during processions.

The last three days are the most important; feeling tension in the air with the arrival of dusk, when the celebrations starts, on the streets or in mosques, reaching its peak in the tenth day, Day of Ashura, which means “tenth”.

During the days before the Ashura, songs related to the martyrdom of Hussein, sung as a lament, following the rhythm of the drums beat, spread in the streets, coming from shops, cars or houses. The same rhythm that drives the night ceremonies, of chest beating and shooting currents; an intense and heavy rhythm, and a male dominated ceremony where women have a secondary place.

All this devotion, were is not unusual for people to cry, the songs like wails, the black that dominates the decor and the clothes, the excitement and intensity placed in the ceremonies, create an extremely intense and emotional atmosphere that can only be experienced on site. According to tradition who shed tears during Ashura, have their wishes fulfilled by Imam Hussein, and it is not uncommon to see men cry following the words of a speaker who chantings recounts the martyrdom of Hussein.

A quick look can see all these exaggerated manifestations with religious fanaticism, but what I felt was a deep and honest devotion… with a hint of competitiveness and even exhibitionism in the way young men beat their chests, knowing that are observed by women at the masque galleries.

The day after the Ashura, carried out the Ashura Carnival: a parade were groups of people and cars show the various episodes of the martyrdom of Hussein and his followers. At the end of this procession resembles a carnival parade, but instead of fun dominates a serious atmosphere of sorrow, but already away from the intensity of the previous day.

The celebrations end on that same night with the people gathering at mosques and squares elsewhere in the city of Yazd, where he watched the last days of Ashura, to light candles which gives a special atmosphere of calm and serenity.

The Ashura is celebrated all over the world where you are presented with a Shiite community, and the celebrations in Iran much more moderate than is often found in images from other countries like Pakistan or Iraq where the self-flagellation of practice is taken to extreme, causing serious wounds in participating, attitude condemned by many religious. Iran this practice is forbidden, and despite the ills left by the violent beating of hands against his chest, and shoot chains against the back, does not reach exaggerated proportions or trance states, with the population showing restrained, despite the bustle and excitement that sits in the air.

Being in Iran during Ashura, by chance, was certainly a unique, intense and unforgettable experience, while at the same time been a period a bit “heavy” resulting from all solemnity and austerity that has spread among the population, that not so let him show the usual generosity and sympathy.

Decorações do Ashura à venda n uma loja junto ao Grand Bazar de Theran
Ashura decorations in a shop near the Tehran Grand Bazar

 

Procissão nos primeiros dia do Ashura. Shiraz
Procession in Shiraz streets on the first days of Ashura celebrations

 

Procissão nos primeiros dia do Ashura. Shiraz
Procession in Shiraz street on the first days of Ashura celebrations

 

Procissão nos primeiros dia do Ashura. Shiraz
Procession in Shiraz streets

 

Procissão nos primeiros dia do Ashura. Shiraz
Procession in Shiraz streets

 

Correntes usadas na autoflagelação à venda no bazar de Shiraz
Chains used for self-flagelation during the celebrations of Ashura in a bazar shop at Shiraz

 

Comemorações do Ashura pela comunidade Iraquiana, em que pesadas estruturas metálicas são transportadas. Yazd
Celebrations of Ashura by the Iraquian community at Yazd

 

Comemorações do Ashura pela comunidade Iraquiana. Yazd
Celebrations of Ashura by the Iraquian community at Yazd

 

Ashura numa pequena mesquita na Old City de Yazd
Ashura at a small mosque in Old City at Yazd

 

Ashura_Yazd_DSC_3998
Ashura Day. Yazd

 

Ashura_Yazd_DSC_3947
Ashura Day. Yazd

 

Ashura Carnival
Ashura Carnival

 

Ashura Carnival
Ashura Carnival

 

Ashura Carnival
Ashura Carnival

 

Ashura Candle Ceremony. Yazd
Sham-e Ghariban. Ashura Candle Ceremony. Yazd

 

Ashura Candle Ceremony. Yazd
Sham-e Ghariban. Ashura Candle Ceremony. Yazd

 

Ashura Candle Ceremony. Yazd
Sham-e Ghariban. Ashura Candle Ceremony. Yazd

During these days it is offered tea in small stalls improvised a bit all over the place, and sometimes is also offered food, as Gheimeh a lamb stew, with lentils and vegetables served with rice and Sholehzard, a rice pudding with saffron. Other traditional meal is the ash soup, with lamb that is cooked by volunteers all night, getting ready the next morning for being distributed on breakfast.

Durante so 10 dias que decorrem as celebrações do Ashura, um pouco por toda o lado surgem quiosques que oferecem chá, e por vezes doces, tâmaras, refeições, pão... é tradicional a oferta de comida durante estes dias
During 10 days, small stalls offer tea, dates, sweets and sometimes meals, as tradition during the Ashura

 

Gheimeh
Gheimeh, traditional Ashura meal

 

Preparação da sopa "ash" na noite do Ashura para ser consumida na manhã seguinte ao pequeno almoço
Preparing the ash soup, during Ashura night, to be served in the next morning as breakfast

 

During Ashura, in particular in the last 3 days:

The last three days most of the shops are closed, including banks, exchange shops, restaurants, grocery stores, etc… yet lots of food is distributed free during the celebrations near the mosques, at some shops, bakeries or by local people. As alternative just left the hotel restaurants.

Many bus services, both local and long distance are canceled.

Should dress modestly, avoiding shiny or light colors clothing, special inside or nearby the mosques… but for tourists these rules are always more loose.

As it is a period of grief and mourning, should be avoided public show of great enthusiasm, dancing, listen to music, laugh out loud …

 

Imam Hussein Fan Club:

The Ashura is celebrated across Iran, in cities as in small towns, and celebrations can be seen both on city streets or mosques, being the free access. Inside the mosques the men can stay in the main ground, but the women usually must go to galleries on upper floor or stay in reserved areas on the back of the mosque.

A bit by chance, I joined a group called Imam Hussein Fan Club, which no commercial intentions organized tour for tourists present in Yazd, during the last days of Ashura. This group, made up of tourist guides had also the aim to encourage the so-called “religious tourism” and above all promoting Iran in terms of tourism, tried to clean the image of Islamic radicals that often this country is cataloged.

An excellent organization that provided access to reserved areas at the mosques, transportation to visit other ways to celebrate Ashura away from the center of Yazd, and even some meals. However, all this organization offers little space to anyone wandering on their own, with the various elements of the organization not giving much freedom of movement.

Calendário de eventos organizado pelo grupo "Imam Hussein Fan Club"
Schedule of the events organized by “Imam Hussein Fan Club”

Persepolis ruins

We are greeted at the arrival by two gigantic statues of bulls, whose heads already destroyed not steal importance to his presence, giving even a mysterious look. On the opposite side of this gate, are two other statues of robust bull body, winged and with human head, which as guardians observe indifferent over time the thousands of tourists who flock here daily. We are in Persepolis, the so-called Gate of Nations.

This giant sculptures at the gate od Persepolis representing Shedu (or Lamassu) with lion body or sometimes bull, a human head and bird wings, are protective deity related to the zodiac and originated in Mesopotamia

But despite Persepolis mean the “City of Persians” this site wasn’t built as a city but for ceremonial purposes showing the greatness and power of the Achaemenid Empire.

The construction of Persepolis began in 515 BC by Cyrus named “the Great” founder of the Achaemenid Empire and was subsequently added by his successors: Darius and Xerxes.

But it was Alexander “the Great” that in 300 BC ended the greatness of this place, looting and burning, apparently in revenge, for earlier King Xerxes had order to burn down the city of Athens.

Throughout the space, walls reveal large images carved in stone, represented envoys of other nations, bringing offerings, showing hosts, ornamented with flowers, lettering and various representations where it is a lion attacking a bull, symbolising the eternal struggle of the Moon (bull) with the Sun (Lion); this duality is also related to the Zoroastrian religion, and is the Persian New Year (Nowruz), which coincides with the equinox marking the beginning of spring.

The faravahar, also called fravahr, symbolises the Persian nation, and representation can be found in various locations of the ruins of Persepolis, especially in the figures carved in Tomb of Artaxerxes II, as a kind of protector angel, with the wings and tail of a bird, a human figure at the center, emerging from a hoop, holding a ring, whose meaning is closely connected to the Zoroastrian religion.

Persepolis being the heart of Persia, instead of “Salam”, the traditional greeting in Farsi but that comes from the Arabic language, we are invited to use the old term “dûrut”.

Persepolis, is without doubt a must see place for anyone traveling through Iran, and despite the large amount of people who visit the site, the vast majority on organised tours, does not take away the beauty or impact these ruins of another vanished empire.

Persepolis. Gate of Nations
Persepolis. Gate of Nations

 

Persepolis. Gate of Nations
Persepolis. Gate of Nations

 

Persepolis
Persepolis

 

Persepolis
Persepolis

 

Persepolis
Persepolis. Artaxerxes II Tomb

 

Persepolis
Persepolis

 

Persepolis
Persepolis

 

Persepolis
Persepolis

 

Persepolis
Persepolis

 

Persepolis
Persepolis

 

Persepolis
“faravahar”, symbol of Persian Nation as also from the Zoroastrian religion. Persepolis

 

Persepolis. Artaxerxes II Tomb
Persepolis. Shedu or Lamassu: lions body, humans head and bird wings. Protective deity with connections with zodiac and origin in old Mesopotamia

 

Persepolis
Persepolis. Lion attacking a Bull, the eternal struggle of the Moon (bull) and the Sun (Lion) that is related to the Zoroastrian religion, and with the Persian New Year (Normuz), which coincides with the equinox marking the beginning of spring

How to reach Persepolis:

This is undoubtedly the challenge for those visiting Persepolis.

Virtually all hotels and travel agencies organize tours that may or may not include Naqsh-e Rostam and Pasargadae: with values between 30 and 50 USD.

It is also possible hired a taxi for return trip, asking the driver to wait for the end of the visit to bring you back to Yazd; however there are reports that in turn is asked for more money than agreed, with the argument that the waiting time during the visit was longer than arranged.

You can Persepolis also by public transport Persepolis: At the Karandish Bus Terminal (the main terminal in Yazd) you need to walk toward the binding in direction of the south exit, and then cross the avenue to the other side where a small mini-bus terminal is located. Then here take a bus to the city of Marvdasht, 50 km. From Marvdasht you need a taxi (or a shared taxi) for the next 10 km until Persepolis entrance.

The greatest difficulty is to go through the human barrier created by taxi drivers at Karandish Bus Terminal, that virtually prevent people from reaching the terminal across the street, blocking the way, giving incorrect information that there are no buses (to be Friday or any other reason) and offering different prices for the route to Persepolis.

Given this situation couldn’t even get information about the routes, schedules or bus prices to Marvdasht.

The solution came unexpectedly from a Iranian couple who was in the terminal and offered to give me a ride, and bring me back; Having visited Persepolis with me, showing a pleasant and interesting company, taking me also to visit other places of Shiraz. With this, not to abuse the generosity of this couple I skip the visit to Naqsh-e Rostam, highly recommended.

at Persepolis
at Persepolis

Were to Eat:

At the entry, were is the ticket counter, toilets and gift-shops you can also find something to eat, drink or snacks, even within the archaeological complex you all find a café serving drinks and light meals.

Inside the complex is possible to find drinking water taps.

 

Tickets:

Persepolis: 150,000 rials

Inside the complex there is a museum, being necessary to purchase another ticket: 100,000 rials.

Shiraz… the wine and the poets

Shiraz, with over 2000 years of history is considered the heart of Persia, not only in historical and cultural terms; Shiraz is known as the city of poets, where the tombs of Hafez and Saadi poets and also famous for wine which is currently prohibited under Islamic law, that in the 9th century became the most famous wine in the Middle East. Despite the phonetic similarities with the name of Syrah cast, popular in Europe, have nothing to do with Iran’s Shiraz that is a white wine … yes, “is” because secretly is still produced and not all existing vineyards in the region are for grape or raisin!

The city has much to offer to visitors, among mosques, bazaars, gardens, etc… but not everything is close to the center, requiring long walks or trips on a shared-taxi.

As must-visit is the Masoleum of Hafez (Aramgah-e Hafez), where is the tomb of Hafez poet, surrounded by a garden where locals and visitors move to pay respect to the poet, praying, reading books or simply wandering along the place. The arrival to this place by the end of the day, when the sun had already disappeared over the horizon but the sky still keep some tones of blue that quickly get dark letting emerge the stars, with together with the intellectual and spiritual devotion create a mystic and magic atmosphere to which no one get´s indifferent.

The rich architecture, the elaborately decorated in mosaics forming geometric motifs that lines the main building ceilings, and the spacious and minimalist gardens, of the Masoleum of Saadi (Aramgah-e Saadi) did not provide an atmosphere so special, yet this place is also very popular among the local population, that comes here at the end of the day savoring the tranquility and fresh air.

Masoleum of Hafez (Aramgah-e Hafez)
Masoleum of Hafez (Aramgah-e Hafez)

 

Masoleum of Hafez (Aramgah-e Hafez),
Masoleum of Hafez (Aramgah-e Hafez)

 

Masoleum of Hafez (Aramgah-e Hafez),
Masoleum of Hafez (Aramgah-e Hafez)

 

Masoleum of Hafez (Aramgah-e Hafez),
Masoleum of Hafez (Aramgah-e Hafez)

 

Masoleum of Saadi (Aramgah-e Saadi),
Masoleum of Saadi (Aramgah-e Saadi)

 

Masoleum of Saadi (Aramgah-e Saadi)
Masoleum of Saadi (Aramgah-e Saadi)

 

Masoleum of Saadi (Aramgah-e Saadi)
Masoleum of Saadi (Aramgah-e Saadi)

The Bazaar-e Vakil, despite the interesting architecture of the building this bazar wasn’t particularly interesting finding is dominated by Ashura decorations, the largest religious festival for Shiite Muslims, which is dominate the black flags with religious inscriptions.

Shiraz
Shiraz

 

Bazar-e Vakil
Medicinal Teas and Herbs at Bazar-e Vakil

 

Fábrica de pão em Shiraz. Tradicionalmente o pão no Irão é espalmado, existindo contudo muitas variedades e formatos, variando de cidade para cidade e de fábrica para fábrica.
Bakery at Shiraz. Traditionally the bread in Iran is all flat, yet you can find many different kinds of bread, changing from city to city, and eve from bakery to bakery.

 

Bazar-e Vakil
Bazar-e Vakil were the corridor were decorates with black flags for the Ashura festival

 

Bazar-e Vakil
Fabric for chadors… all in black at Bazar-e Vakil

But the most striking impression of Shiraz, not just by the stunning space but the mostly by the atmosphere experienced was Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh, the giant mosque located in the city center, which can go unnoticed despite its ornate portals, and that is the principal place of pilgrimage in the city of Shiraz.

Security measures forbidden cameras inside, but no picture can convey the impression made by the interior of the mosque where lies the tomb of Sayyed Mir Ahmad: the walls, pillars and ceilings completely covered with small mirrors forming a kind of kaleidoscope as we move towards the different rooms. Inside, where men and women are separated, reigns a mixed environment of religious devotion with lines of women fully black dressed praying at the tomb while others sited in groups, chatting casually while children run and play without rest.

Around the mosque hidden by big walls from the streets of Shiraz is the huge patio that was gradually filling up with people. From a distance comes the sound of drums, slow and syncopated beat, and songs that more closely resemble lamentations. Following towards these unusual sounds that take us out of the mosque, we are faced with a procession, in which groups of men dressed in black shirt, hit strongly with his hand on the chest to the rhythm of the words that come out from shrill speaker accompanying the procession. Behind other groups, hit with chains on the shoulders, a flogging act that leaves the metallic sheen of the currents on the black fabric of the shirts. This was the first of ten days dedicated to the celebrations of the Ashura all over Iran.

 

Out of this black and heavy environment, the visit on the day after to the Masjed-e Nasir-al-Mock brought opposite sensations, with the light entering the prayer room through the windows full of color glass that occupy the entire facade facing the east, illuminated the interior of the space of a colorful warm light, transmitting peace and comfort.

 

Masjed-e Nasir-al-Mock
Masjed-e Nasir-al-Mock

 

Masjed-e Nasir-al-Mock
Masjed-e Nasir-al-Mock

 

Masjed-e Nasir-al-Mock
Masjed-e Nasir-al-Mock

 

Masjed-e Nasir-al-Mock
Masjed-e Nasir-al-Mock

Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh Mosque

Cameras are not allowed; however during Ashura, in the company of elements of “foreigner affairs” (volunteers with good English which lead tourists through the mosque) you can take pictures.

Women have to wear chador, which completely covers the body from head to toe; at the entry the chadors are provided for free.

Open 24 hours.

Free entrance.

//shahecheragh.ir/

Masjed-e-Nasir al-Mock:

Schedule:

During the week: 8.00 – 12.00; 15.30h – 18.00h

Friday and public holidays: 8.00 – 11.00; 15.30h – 17.00h

Ticket: 100,000 rials

Should go during tomorrow around 10 or 11 hours, when the sun shines on the facade of stained glass.

Masjed-e Nasir-al-Mock. Schedule
Masjed-e Nasir-al-Mock. Schedule

 

Accommodation:

Niayesh Boutique Hotel

In front of BiBi Dokhtaran, Alley 4,

Namazi Junction towards Shahe-e Cheragah

Phone: 0711 2233 622

www.niayeshhotels.com

Dorm that the room is more similar to a corridor roughly split into compartments with 2 beds each; little space. The rooms have window to the central courtyard that also work as restaurant, and can be a bit noisy especially during the breakfast, served by 7 am.

Dorm Bed: 400,000 rials.

Breakfast is included and is very good: buffet style (fruit, bread, egg, cheese, yogurt, butter, jams, honey, tea and coffee … and some delicious dates involved in tahini (sesame paste).

Good location.

Free Wi-fi.

Niayesh Boutique Hotel. Drom room
Niayesh Boutique Hotel. Dorm room

 

Niayesh Boutique Hotel
Niayesh Boutique Hotel

 

Niayesh Boutique Hotel. Contacts
Niayesh Boutique Hotel. Contacts

Where to eat:

In the main streets of the center, such as the Loft Ali Khan Boulevard and Karim Khan Zand-e Boulevard you can find some fast-food restaurants with kebabs, falafel, ash-e reshteh and halim.

Like most Iranian cities, Shiraz also has its traditional sweet, the foloodeh, a kind of ice cream made of thin starch noodles, flavored with rose water and slightly sweetened. Sometimes it can be served with ice cream and drizzled with lime juice. Very refreshing.

The Salamat Restaurant is a vegetarian suggestion, located in Niayesh Boulevard, but is located far away from the city center.

Foloodeh, Doce típico de Shiraz, gelado com sabor a água de rosas
Foloodeh, Doce típico de Shiraz, gelado com sabor a água de rosas

 

Transport:

The arrival in Shiraz is on the well-organized Karandish Bus Terminal. On arrival we are approached by various taxi drivers and that lead you to a kiosk of prepaid taxis. Solution to avoid if you are traveling alone because here taxis charge 100,000 rials to the city center; for half the price you can take a shared-taxi in the streets surrounding the terminal.

To go from downtown to the Karandish Bus Terminal, from were departure the long distance buses, you can use the local bus, that start from the small bus terminal, Ahmid Bus Stop in Dastgheib Boulevard, near the Mosque Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh; there is a small kiosk selling tickets that provides information about the number of the bus and the corresponding stop.

Bus Esfahan – Shiraz: 7 hours, 170,000 rials, Normal bus

Bus Shiraz – Yazd: 5 hours, 200,000 rials, VIP Bus

Estrada Esfahan - Shiraz
Roas Esfahan – Shiraz with never ending straight alignments

 

Estrada Esfahan - Shiraz, onde a chegada a esta ultima cidade se reveste de uma paisagem mais verde e onde surge agricultura
Road Esfahan – Shiraz. At the approaching to Shiraz the landscape become more and more green with agriculture fiels

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