Nagaland

Kohima and the exotic markets

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Kohima definitely stood out by the markets, where the exotic and diverse food supply reflects the originality of Nagaland cuisine that includes a lot of meat, eggs, dried fish, eels, snails, worms, mice, frogs… and wasp larvae, still sold in the hive. Always present is the Naga Chilies, consider the spiciest chili in the world,

Regarding vegetables, these markets show a mix of tropical and mountain products. From the warm plains of Assam come the papaya, and the banana, that here, despite the fruit, is also used the trunk and the flower that are used for cooking. From the cool mountain air arrive the mushrooms and bamboo, eaten in sprouts. There’s also a wide variety of veggies, many of which are totally unknown to the European taste.

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Kohima is the capital of Nagaland, and as it’s usual in this state of Northeast India, all cities are located in mountain areas, preferably on the top of the hills, stretching by the slopes, along the winding and steep roads, that doesn’t encourage long walks.

Sporadic rain and a constant gray sky paint with dark colours this city of concrete and metal roofs with few attractive features. However, this city can be a good starting point to know the culture of Nagaland tribes and becomes quite popular in terms of tourism during the Hornbill festival, a show of local culture.

Like any trip in Nagaland implies a high level of stress, mental and physical, due to the discomfort and duration of the trip, Kohima showed up as an almost compulsory stop on the route between Mon-Mokokchung-Guwahati.

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With a few interesting to see, where I effortlessly avoided the popular War Cemetery and the State Museum of Kohima, what stood out were the food markets, especially the Mao Market… apparently, there is no relationship between this place and the leader of the Communist Chinese Party. In this market, situated in a small concrete building, are sold food products used in Nagaland cuisine, and that are not so easily found at city shops, such as worms and frogs, that here are sold alive… and in a strong activity to get out from the containers where they are sold.

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But near this small market extends to another market… or better to many other markets, a sequence of buildings, wood constructions covered with metal roof, where along narrow and labyrinthine corridors and stairs, we go from clothes sales to the food area, losing easily the orientation, requiring some persistence to find a way out… and nothing guarantee that it is the same point of entry!

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But in this market, going down to darker and less crowded areas we are surprised by a heavy and disgusting smell, a mixture of blood and shit. It is the area where animals are sold and slaughter, and where chickens and ducks waiting for their turn under the yellowish light of the dim lights that illuminate the place, where is notorious the heavy smell of death.

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How to go to Mao Market:

Near the intersection of Midland Colony, there is a bus stand, where stops the buses that pass close to Mao Market, near the Sokhriezie Junction, in Kohima–Imphal Road. There’s no visible sign on the bus neither a number, but just ask the tickets collector that everyone knows the place; the trip costs 10 rupees and takes about 15 minutes.

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Onde dormir em Kohima:

Where to stay in Kohima:

Running away from the anonymous environment and from the desert and creepy hotels, Kohima surprised with the Morung Lodge, found by chance when I was looking for Pine Hotel in Midland Colony. Morung Lodge is a real guest house where you feel the family atmosphere and the comfort provided by an environment with personality.

Morung Lodge

Address: Midland Colony (just after the Hotel Pine).

Contacts: 985 634 3037 (Nino) or 841 481 4214 (Amen)

Email: [email protected]

Wi-fi: 100 rupees/day

Veg dinner: 200 rupies

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Where to eat in Kohima:

Being the Nagaland gastronomy heavily dominated by meat, vegetarian meals resume to a monotonous rice, dal and veg curry (locally just called rice) or a Chow Mein, reminding us how close we are from Asia.

Kohima is a good opportunity to try the Naga food with some dedicated restaurants, but where it is impossible to find vegetarian food.

Despite the strong influence of Asian food culture, you can find everywhere Indian snacks such as samosas and puris. At Midland Colony in Kohima, in Mokokchung Road, very close to the Morung Lodge, the small Hotel Taste (no rooms, just food) serves from 6 a.m. delicious samosas, which may be completed with a chai (tea with milk)… too sweet for my taste, but that is a popular choice among the local population as the first meal of the day.

Also in the same area, near the main intersection of Midland Colony (near the Baptist Church), are some restaurants that serve an reasonable rice (rice with vegetable curry and dal) for 80 rupees.

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Transport in Kohima:

The city of Kohima doesn’t show friendly for walks, as the city extends over a large area, along busy and noisy roads without proper infrastructure for pedestrians.

For longer distances, there are small buses that run through the city, the “City Bus“. A trip costs about 10 rupees.

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How to go from Kohima to Dimapur:

From the bus terminal of the NST run a bus to Dimapur around 7 a.m, but the departure time is not fixed, and the bus starts only when is full, according to the ticket information. However, my trip began with just 2/3 of the passengers, around 7:20 a.m.

Buses from NST (Nagaland State Transport) are in very poor condition, dirty and with some broken seats, especially those that make the shorter routes, as is the case Kohima-Dimapur.

Bus from Kohima to Dimapur: 120 rupees (3 hours)

Right next to the bus station, there’s a taxis stand, easily identifiable by the concentration of yellow vehicles. The trip costs 220 rupees, in shared-taxi, and takes 2.5 hours. Taxis have no fixed schedule and leave as soon as they are full (which in the morning does not take long), running from 6 a.m. until evening. This service doesn’t work during the night

The road between Kohima and Dimapur is mainly on a mountain road, with the last third of the route already being done in the plains of Assam. The road pavement is in good conditions but with sections under construction and others full of bumps that make this 70 km a tiring journey.

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elevation: 1444

population: 100.000

Mokokchung… and the boring Sunday!

About Mokokchung we can resume that is a banal and boring city. But at the same time has everything to be nice: organized, clean, quiet and with a location that offers a wide view of the green-covered mountains that surround this city. Mokokchung pops up as the culture center of the Ao tribe, one of the several ethnic groups that constitute the state of Nagaland in northeast India.

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Having started the journey in Nagaland at the top north of the state, by the region of Mon, Mokokchung appeared on the map as an intermediate stopping point on the journey to Kohima, on the south of Nagaland, whose mountainous features always require long trips. But to my surprise, there is no passable road from Mon to Mokokchung inside Nagaland state, being necessary to the neighboring state of Assam, taking advantage of their flat and in reasonable condition roads, then get back to Nagaland, towards Mokokchung or Kohima.

But after the human aridity and the rugged landscape of the Mon region, which left an intense and not that nice memory of the stay at Mon, this second time, with the Ao tribe, ethnically and culturally different from Konyak, the land of Nagas showed another face.

Early on, passing through the village of Tuli, we are greeted by colorful flowers that adorn vases and gardens at houses entrances, as well as plants that appear to arise spontaneously at the roadside. Houses whose wood and bamboo construction, are immaculately groomed, painted in soft colors that blend with the landscape. A landscape also mountainous, but more “soft” with a brighter and fresh green… as if here the life is more enjoyable!

A more welcoming people, very curious, and willing to do a bit of conversation, to “know” those who come from far away to visit these places, where English is “lingua franca” in which most people are able to communicate. This shows the importance given to education, which is evident in Nagaland as well as Magalahya.

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Mokokchung itself arouses little interest. It’s necessary to visit the neighbouring villages to get in touch with the Ao culture. But there is no public transport to these small villages, and the taxi was a too expensive option, that force me to stay in Mokokchung where was little to do, besides rest of intense and long trips. The population in Nagaland, as some of the neighbouring states, is strongly Christian, as a result of the missionary that arrived around the ninth century, so Sunday is scrupulously respected as a day of rest, where all the shops and services are closed. And here “all” means really all, because there is no shop or even a restaurant open throughout the city… no taxis, no buses or sumos, the only thing open are the churches corresponding to the various currents of Christianity.

This made my stay in Mokokchung longer than expected, with the Sunday spent at the hotel, including meals because neither the Hindus of restaurants open on Sundays!!!

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Where to stay in Mokokchung:

Mokokchung is not yet prepared to guesthouses or other accommodation for backpackers. The signs “hostels” refer to long-term residences for students from other locations, and do not rent rooms.

However, two of the city’s hotels have dormitories or rooms with several beds. The dorms are mixed, which may create obstacles to women if there’s already beds occupied by men.

Hotel Metsuben and Whispering Winds are formal hotels, with dwell infrastructure and services but where prices are unsympathetic to backpacker, but where a bed in a dorm costs between 300 to 350 rupees.

Whispering Winds: //www.whisperingwinds.co.in/

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Hotel Metsuben: //www.facebook.com/hotelmetsuben

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Both are located outside the city center, but within a reasonable distance to be done on foot. The choice was to Whispering Winds, situated on the top one of the hills, opposite the Hotel Metsuben.

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Onde comer em Mokokchung:

Where to eat in Mokokchung:

Mokokchung didn’t stand out for food, lying along the I.M. Road several cafes serving parathas, samosas and some snacks. Here you begin to notice some influence of Indian culture, and may even find a lassi or paneer.

In I.M. Road, above the “Friendly’s Restaurant” there’s “The Restaurant” with a pleasant atmosphere serving Indian food (rice and curry) and Asian food (chow mein, noodles, etc…).

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Transportes em Mokokchung:

Transport in Mokokchung:

Despite the strong stiffness of the streets, which means always going up and down in a kind of zig-zag, Mokokchung is doable on foot. However, there are buses along the main roads identified as City Ride, which can save you so effort. From the center of the city (near police circle) up near the hotel Whispering Winds it costs 10 rupees.

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"police circle" o centro da cidade de Mokokchung — “police circle” the center of Mokokchung, nearby is the NTC bus stand, as also a taxi stand

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How to get to Mokokchung:

Due to the poor condition of the roads of Nagaland, in part by the lack of investment and maintenance, and partly the winding terrain, there isn’t a road that connects directly to Mon to Mokokchung.

So from Mon is necessary to go to Sonai, in Assam, go through Simaluguri and Amguri, and then get back to Nagaland, through Tuli. From Tuli is 4 more hours of mountain road until Mokokchung.

From Mon there’s a sumo service to Mokokchung, daily (except Sundays), by 6 am. You must book in advance (Travel Link). The sumos have a specific terminal in Mokokchung, near the market, not far from the city center, where is the bus terminal of the NTC (Nagaland Transport Corporation).

sumo from Mon to Mokokchung: 650 rupees (8 hours)

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venda de bilhetes para os sumos para Mon. Mokokchung — ticket counter for sumos to Mon. Mokokchung

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How to go from Mokokchung to Kohima or Dimapur:

Mokokchung has a great offer in terms of public transport.

In the city center (a police circle) is located the bus terminal of the NTC (Nagaland Transport Corporation), with connections to Guwahati, Dimapur and Kohima.

For other destinations, such as Mon, you must use the sumo, starting from a small terminal near the fresh market.

To Dimapur and Kohima there are many companies offering this service along I.M. Road, near the Police Circle.

public bus from Mokokchung to Kohima: 220 rupees

at 6 a.m. part (8 hours)

sumo from Mokokchung to Kohima : 430 rupees

6 a.m. and 10 a.m (6 hours)

sumo from Mokokchung to Dimapur (night service): departs at 4:30 p.m and arrives near the 5 a.m.

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elevation: 1325

population: 35,913

From the Assam plains to Nagaland mountains… from Majuli to Mon

It’s time to say goodbye to the stillness of Majuli and the plains of Assam to heading up the hill to the challenging Nagaland. With the sunrise was time to get out of bed and prepare for departure from the island of Majuli, with the fields still wrapped in a fine mist. The first ferry leaves the island at 7 am, but to get there you have to wait on the roadside for a crowded bus heading to the makeshift pier, that is forced to change location according to the ups and downs of the Brahmaputra river.

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The boat ride is calm and monotonous landscape invites to sleep, but as soon as we landed in Nimati Gaht, this quietness is broken by the tempos drivers, who hurriedly try to put the largest number of passengers in their own vehicle, always in bigger number than space available.

The trip until Jorhat takes no more than half an hour but is uncomfortable enough for us look forward the arrival in the city, where we are “dumped” on a street where taxis and rickshaws line, and where each driver tries to push us to his vehicle. In this situation, when we don’t know where we are and have no idea of the direction to take, the best is to walk a bit, away from this chaos and look for reliable information. So it was time to find same food. But again was impossible to avoid the monotonous paratha with the usual curry of yellow peas and potatoes. To get trustful information in places where the English language isn’t “lingua franca”, the best option is to look for a pharmacy, where usually the owners speak a reasonable English.

With precise guidelines about the direction to take, it was time to start the trip with another series of buses and many transfers… from Jorhart to Sivasagar, from Sivasagar to Sonari, finally from Sonari to Mon.

As not everything follows the logic that we used, not always the buses leave us in the terminals, but somewhere along the road, at the mercy of tuk-tuk and taxi drivers who eagerly wait for disoriented passengers. But as always happen n this kind of long journey, someone shows up willing to help: or giving directions or sharing part of the ride, with the communication resumed to basic words or by using gestures.

Despite the discomfort of the buses, the many transfers, the warm weather, the journey from Majuli flow quit well, with good coordination between different means of transportation and short waits between buses, which encouraged me to go on the same day to Mon, saving me from stay one night in the unattractive and dusty town of Sonari.

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"sumo" stand at Sonari. Assam — “sumo” stand at Sonari. Assam

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Nagaland is reputed to be dangerous, especially Mon… perhaps because tribal wars have lasted until recently, perhaps due the proximity of Burma and opium route, or more likely by the isolation and negligence that is voted on this region, where scarce basic infrastructure and were is evident a certain underdevelopment. So often I received warnings not to travel alone in Nagaland, and especially never walk at night on the streets.

With this warnings, it becomes a priority to arrive as soon as possible to Mon, situated in a part of the country where the sun goes down before 5 pm. The only sumo waiting at Sonari was already full and there was no guarantee if there will be more sumos that day. Having glimpsed some space on the back of the Jeep, I could explain why gesture that there was still room for one more. Immediately the friendly driver proceeded to the reorganization of the goods on the top of the Jeep, to get some space near the other passengers, that despite not speaking English received me with smiles.

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Nagaland_road Sonari-Mon_DSC_8624 — Road from Sonari to Mon. Nagaland

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It was easy to know when we leave Assam and entered in Nagaland: Assam is flat… as soon as we start to go up the mountains we know that we are in Nagaland!

The road that leaves from Sonari, though asphalted is in poor condition, goes flat through tea plantations and warm temperature, into the direction of the mountains. Nagaland begins in the village of Tizit, and from here is always up until Mon, by a dirt road, where trucks and Jeep move slowly, overcoming bumps, avoiding pits and crossing small water stream. Is a road opened on the mountain slopes, with scattered villages, but where the impact of human presence is evident, by intense deforestation that leaves the poor top soil exposed to erosion, stolen life to this green forest, that is replaced by a brown color.

As we get closer to Burmese border, it is clear that we get in a sensitive area of the Indian territory, by the proximity to the opium route and by the ethnic and tribal conflicts that have kept this area in a war until 10 years ago. Along the way we are stopped by several checkpoints, by police and the army, and even by civilians who make rough inspections of vehicles, goods and passenger documentation, with foreigners being controlled with more bureaucracy.

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One of the checkpoints along the road from Sonari to Mon. Nagaland

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The arrival at Mon was a bit grim, mainly because of the warnings about being a “dangerous” area, that never revealed or specified the risks, but that left a shadow of concern in the air.

The optimism and enthusiasm that characterized this journey from the plains of Majuli island, faltered on arrival Mon… maybe due to the tiredness, maybe because of the dark sky… but probably as a result of the heavy energy of the place. But the arriving of the night and the rainy weather didn’t allow to see more than a cluster of houses, spread along the hills, where the gray tone of the sky blends with the rusty metal roofs.

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Paisagem a caminho de Mon. Nagaland — Landscape on the way to Mon. Nagaland

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Permits:

It is not necessary any permit for entering and traveling in the state of Nagaland.

But you must give a copy of the passport in the check-point in Tizit. If you don’t a copy, you find a shop across the street that can make one for 5 rupees.

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How to go from Majuli to Mon:

Is a long and demanding journey, but with luck it’s possible to be done in a single day, saving a night on the uninteresting town of Sonari. But if necessary Sonari has accommodation. Another alternative is to stay in Sivasagar one day, taking the opportunity to visit the famous temples, and start the second stage of the journey on the next day.

The journey begins at 6.30 am in the morning to catch the first ferry out of Majuli at 7 am.
As you arrive at Nimati Gaht take a tempo (small shared taxis that carry more than 8 squeezed passengers) from the pier to Jorhat. All tempos end their journey on the main road at Jorhat, next to a petrol station. In front of the petrol station, there are tempos and tuk-tuk (also shared) following to the Jorhat Bus Terminal, located at the entrance of the city, close to the highway.
At the bus terminal is necessary to look for buses to Sonari, or in an alternative to Sivasagar. Outside the terminal, also stop private buses, bound for Dibrugarh, passing through Sivasagar. This was the option avoid the long wait for the ASTC (public company) buses, but these private companies have the disadvantage of stopping at much more time to collect passengers… but still are faster.
At Sivasagar is needed to take another bus to Sonari, from the Bus Terminal. As these two cities are close, there are regular services is this connection works as a local bus. You can buy the ticket inside the vehicle, but it doesn’t ensure a seat.
At Sonari, the bus stops at the main street, and you need to take a tempo to the sumo stand to Mon. It’s located on a side street, parallel to the main road. There is no indication or schedule of sumos… the later it gets smaller the chance to find a sumo for Mon. If necessary, in this place there are basic accommodation and you can make a meal based on rice and curry (50 INR) while waiting.
The sumo trip to Mon is long and uncomfortable, with the first part along a ruined pavement road, along a flat area. After crossing the border with the state of Nagaland, marked by a police/army checkpoint at Tizit, the conditions get worst, becoming a dirty road, in very poor condition, going up the mountain. Along the way, the sumo stops several times to drop goods and passengers, but there is no village around. Only halfway we find a small group of stalls selling fruit and vegetables and where you can buy water.
The travel from Sonari to Mon takes about 3 hours depending on the number of stops, obstacles on the road, and the various checkpoints where sometimes the passengers must get out.
The arrival Mon is almost by the end of the day but before 5 pm.

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food at the "sumo" stand at Sonari, before start the trip to Mon. Assam — “not that bad” food at the “sumo” stand at Sonari, before start the trip to Mon. Assam

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Summary:

Bus until Kamalabari Ghat: 15 rupees (15 minutes)

Ferry from Kamalabari Ghat (Majuli) to Nimati Gaht: 20 rupees (1.15 h)

tempo from Nimati Gaht to Jorhat: 30 rupees (30 minutes)

tempo from Jorhat (petrol station) to the Bus terminal: 10 rupees (10 minutes)

bus from Jorhat to Shivasagar: 50 rupees (2 hours)

tempo from Shivasagar to the bus stand: 20 rupees (5 minutes)

Bus de Shivasagar for Sonali: 30 rupees (2 hours)

tempo de Sonari to the stand sumo (to Mon): 10 rupees (10 minutes)

sumo de Sonali to Mon: 200 rupees (3 hours)… for just 65 km!!!!

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Nagaland

How to go to Mao Market:

Onde dormir em Kohima:

Where to stay in Kohima:

Where to eat in Kohima:

Transport in Kohima:

How to go from Kohima to Dimapur:

Where to stay in Mokokchung:

Onde comer em Mokokchung:

Where to eat in Mokokchung:

Transportes em Mokokchung:

Transport in Mokokchung:

How to get to Mokokchung:

How to go from Mokokchung to Kohima or Dimapur:

Permits:

How to go from Majuli to Mon:

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