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Stepping Out Of Babylon

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Tehran

Things not to miss in Iran

Tehran

… The secret parties taking place in apartments by the city of Tehran, in a country where almost everything that is synonymous of party is prohibited.

 

Kashan

… The small town of smiling and kind population, which in addition to palaces, gardens and historic houses, offers a bazaar of beautiful architecture.

Kashan Bazaar
Kashan Bazaar

 

Kashan Bazaar
Kashan Bazaar

Esfahan

… The bridges over the River Zayandeh that even without water still provide a magical atmosphere with the approach of the sunset.

Esfahan. Bridges over Zayandeh river
Esfahan. Bridges over Zayandeh river

 

Esfahan. Bridges over Zayandeh river
Esfahan. Bridges over Zayandeh river

Persepolis

… The ruins of an extinct civilization, that despite the many visitors still mirror the greatness of an empire that is the heart of Persia.

Persepolis
Persepolis

 

Persepolis
Persepolis

Shiraz

… The atmosphere of Masoleum of Hafez (Aramgah-e Hafez) in a mixture of religious devotion, intellectual respect and artistic mystique that is still given to this poet.

Yazd. Mausoleum of Hafez (Hafez Tomb)
Yazd. Mausoleum of Hafez (Hafez Tomb)

Yazd

… By Dakhme hills (Towers of Silence), where the bodies of Zoroastrianism followers, religion originated in Persia, were left to be eaten by vultures so as not to defile the sacred elements such as fire, water, earth and air.

Yazd. Dakhme
Yazd. Dakhme

 

Yazd. Dakhme
Yazd. Dakhme

Bazaars

… The best were the Tabriz by the atmosphere and the Kashan by the architecture of the building and the sidewalk terrace.

Tabriz Bazaar
Tabriz Bazaar

 

Kashan Bazaar. Rooftop
Kashan Bazaar. Rooftop

 

… And people! The generosity and the kindness.

 

 

… For an upcoming trip:

  • Travel by train to Tehran to Ahvaz crossing the Zharkouh Mountains
  • Visit the villages in Kaluts region where Balochi keep alive their culture and ethnic identity
  • Explore the Persian Gulf, especially Qeshm Island
  • The city of Mashhad
  • Crossing the Dasht-e Lut (Lut Desert)

Tehran… from bazaars to secret parties

Tehran with more than 16 million inhabitants (including suburbs), and heavy and polluted air resulting from the vehicles that clog the main arteries of the city appears to be unattractive to most visitors who only here are the minimum time required on arrival and departure from the country.

In fact the size and dispersion, the city of Tehran is not friendly to wandering, and the main places of interest are far from each other. However the Metro network covers much of the city, proving to be effective and cheap way and easy way to move around.

The stay was in the northern part of Tehran, near Tajrish, where the city begins to climb the slopes of the surrounding hills, enjoying a more ventilated atmosphere and less polluted air, compared to the zone further south, where lies the Grand Bazaar. The north of the city, wealthier and more modern, the black chador is less popular and scarves covering the hair, reveal more than they hide.

In Tajrish Square begins the longest street in the Middle East, Valiasr Street, with over 17 kilometers in length, developing the north-south direction to Rahahan Square, dividing the city in half. Built by Shah Reza Pahlavi, and renamed after the 1979 Islamic revolution, is now one of the main shopping locations in the city, attracting many shops of international brands. Here, not far from Tajrish Square is the Cinema Museum, that presents a selection of more alternative circuit movies, that surrounded by a pleasant garden makes you forget the incessant car movement passing in front of the gates.

The Grand Bazaar of Tehran presented itself, as the name implies “great”, too big in fact, dispersed and difficult to orientation; a succession of modern and uncharacteristic buildings, where most of the area is occupied by clothing shops “Made in China” style, not very attractive and with a certain lack of character.

However, not far is another type of trade in a succession of small shops aligned along the Marvi Street, where you can find a wide variety of imported products, from groceries, clothing, sunglasses, cosmetics, perfumes, etc… showing another facet of local businesses.

Along the street that leads to the main entrance of the bazaar, a 15 Khordad Avenue (Metro Sation: Panzdah-e Khordad), back-filling with movement and excitement that grows throughout the morning, with street vendors hawking their products, leading shippers and bringing goods and hundreds of people shopping, creating a lively atmosphere, where there is always time to take a break to enjoy an ice cream.

But a visit to this capital had the adventure with the unexpected opportunity to get in one of the famous secret parties that make this famous city; in a country where alcohol, nightclubs and many more things are forbidden, these parties organised in apartments are free of all these rules. An paradox to what is lived in public: here the alcohol flows freely, the atmosphere is euphoric party and women, leaving aside the Islamic heavy “dress code”, wear fashion clothing, exhibit hairstyles and heavy make-up.

Tehran, a city full of contrasts between the muslim tradition and modernity of a capital, deserve a more detailed visit, because like any big city, it keeps its hidden charms of who here does not linger.

Tajrish Bazaar
Tajrish Bazaar
Tehran Grand Bazaar
Tehran Grand Bazaar
Tehran Grand Bazaar
Tehran Grand Bazaar
Tehran Grand Bazaar
Tehran Grand Bazaar
Tehran Grand Bazaar
Tehran Grand Bazaar
Tehran Grand Bazaar
Tehran Grand Bazaar
Tehran Grand Bazaar
Tehran Grand Bazaar
Valiasr Street
Valiasr Street
Tehran
Tehran
Esculturas nos jardins do Cinema Museum de Tehran
Esculturas nos jardins do Cinema Museum de Tehran

Transport:

Coming from Tabriz, the arrival in Tehran is in Terminal-e Qarb (near Azadi Square easy to identify by the giant arc), with connection to Metro network (Meydan-e Azadi – Yellow Line).

For destinations to the south, as Kashan, Esfahan, Yazd … buses leave from Terminal-e Jonub, located in the southern part of the city, also accessible by Metro (Terminal-e Jonoob – Red Line)

 

But beware, Tehran disposes of 4 terminals of long-haul buses, targeting different regions of the country, so it is necessary to obtain accurate information about what the appropriate terminal:

  • Terminal-e Qarb

Address: Qarb passenger terminal, Azadi Sq.

  • Terminal-e Jonoob

Address: Jonub passenger terminal, Mohammad Bokharaie St., St. Shoosh

  • Terminal-e Shargh

Address: Shargh passenger terminal, Damavand St., Tehranpars

  • Beihaghi Terminal

Address: Beyhaghi passenger terminal, Arjantine Sq.

 

For arrivals by plane or part, the Metro network also has access to Mehrabad Airport but not at Imam Khomeini International Airport, the main airport of the city.

Theran Metro
Theran Metro
Bus Terminal-e Qarb; entrada da estação de Metro
Bus Terminal-e Qarb; entrance to Metro

 

Tehran Metro Map
Tehran Metro Map

Accommodation:

In the cozy home of a friend, savoring the generous hospitality of an Iranian family … couldn’t be better!

 

Where to eat:

Like any big city, in Tehran is a bit of everything in terms of restaurants, which in addition to traditional kebaks, has much more to offer not missing the international food options.

In the visit to the Grand Bazaar, cannot miss one of the most popular places to eat falafel in Tehran: na Naser Khosvo Street, near the corner with Marvi Street, were around lunchtime customers line up. The site has no tables, only serving falafel in long bread, on take-away system, so the small square in front serves as a location to seat and taste the Iranian version of this typical Arabic snack.

Tehran_Naser Khosvo_Falafel_DSC_1725
popular falafel place at Never Khosvo Street, close to the Grand Bazaar

Another option is the traditional Iranian soup, ash, made in the base grain, beans, lentils and some vegetables, and forming a thick aromatic broth. One of the best of these soups is in Valiasr Street at Tajrish zone where fried onion flakes and a taste of sour cream …

Ash at Valiasr Street
Ash at Valiasr Street

 

Ash, sopa iraniana à base de logominosas e legumes
Ash, iranian soup with beans and vegetables

Between Tabriz and Tehran… on the road again!

“Everything happens for a reason”… and so it happened! After Tabriz the next destination was the village of Masuleh, located in the foothills of Mount Talesh where the humid climate turns dry landscape in a green forest.

For over four hours, they were passing by the bus window desert landscapes almost with out vegetation, where the flat straight road is the only trace of human presence. Untouched plains intercepted by dry river beds, interrupted by small, gentle hills, which when approaching exhibit different textures, soft colors ranging from beige to brown, from gray to reddish shades. Occasionally arises a village of brick built houses whose color is difficult to distinguish from the surrounding landscape, which maintains the same look desert.

But “destiny” would change the turns to plans drawn by “man”, making the driver of the bus between Tabriz and Tehran, forget to leave me in an intermediate stop, Qazvin where it would change bus to reach Masuleh. The mistake was only detected upon arrival to the outskirts of big capital, where there was no way to return to Qazvin.

I found myself unexpectedly in the gigantic bus station in a city with over 15 million inhabitants, a few days ahead of schedule, without preparation, without plans, without a map or even route.

But believing that everything happens for a reason, this was the way to meet with a friend, with later shared with me the trip to Masuleh, making this a special itinerary in the trip by Iran. An inspected situation on the course of the events that reveals to be a balm to the lonely, grey and lonely days spent in Tabriz.

Tabriz - Tehran
Tabriz – Tehran
Tabriz - Tehran
Tabriz – Tehran
Tabriz - Tehran
Tabriz – Tehran
Tabriz - Tehran
Tabriz – Tehran
Tabriz - Tehran
Tabriz – Tehran
Tabriz - Tehran
Tabriz – Tehran

Transport:

The trip Tabriz – Tehran takes about 4 hours but maybe take more time if the arrival in Tehran coincides with the rush-hour, with road congestion.

From Tabriz Bus Terminal (the only one in town for long distance buses) buses depart roughly every hour, with several companies doing this connection. The first buses leave by 6 am and last for 24 hours.

Bus ticket costs 155,000 rials.

VIP Bus Tabriz - Tehran
VIP Bus Tabriz – Tehran
Normal Bus Esfahan - Shiraz
Normal Bus Esfahan – Shiraz
VIP bus Yazd - Kerman
VIP bus Yazd – Kerman
Normal Bus Maku - Tabriz
Normal Bus Maku – Tabriz

Buses in Iran are a great choice for long-distance travel, and there are regular services, with good frequency between major cities: Tabriz, Tehran, Esfahan, Shiraz, Yazd, Mashad, Kerman, Bandar Abbas… as we move away from this itinerary, the offer is less in terms of schedules and sometimes the quality of buses decrease.

The main roads are good, flat and with few curves, often with two lanes, making a comfortable ride; however existing speed brakes can often be quite disturbing during sleep. In mountainous areas, such as Kurdistan, or near the Caspian Sea roads become more sinuous, but usually with good pavement.

The prices are very attractive, with travel between major cities to costing between 100,000 and 200,000 rials (approximately 3:05 €; Out.2015 values).

The price varies depending on the kilometers and the type of service: normal or VIP and did not differ significantly depending on the transport company.

In the VIP service is provided a small snack (biscuits, cake, chocolate and packaged juice); in normal service sometimes tea and water.

When the trip coincides with mealtime and frequent stop for meals.

VIP buses have only 3 passengers per row, with wide and comfortable sets that look more like sofas, with armrest, reclining chairs and some with support that allows elevate your feet. Recommended for overnight trips because the price is not significantly higher.

Normal buses have 4 passengers per row, usually without armrest between seats.

In either option the space between seats is generous, allowing stretch your legs without problems, even for taller people.

All have air-conditioner, which not being too strong can offer enough comfort.

If we are to make a night of long-distance travel (5 or more hours in length) is recommended to confirm the departure time of the last bus, and if possible buy the ticket in advance, at least one day.

Festive seasons such as Nowruz – New Year’s Eve according to the Persian calendar – which coincides with the beginning of spring, are times when the bus, train and plane tickers and difficult to get, so traveling in Iran during is time implies careful planning.

When the number of passengers is not enough to fill a bus, is often different companies join efforts and move all the passengers a single bus, which may delay somewhat the departure and consequently the arrival, although the delay are not usually more than half hour.

Stops right outside the cities to collect passengers (and occasionally goods) are also common in day trips, but virtually nonexistent in night trips.

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