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Stepping Out Of Babylon

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Hualien: a dull gateway to Taroko Gorge

Arriving at Hualien Station doesn’t give the best first impression. The train station sits a bit outside the main urban and commercial area, so you don’t really feel the city vibe right away. But honestly, people don’t come to Hualien for the city itself—they come because it’s the gateway to Taroko Gorge National Park, one of Taiwan’s top tourist spots, right up there with Sun Moon Lake.

Taroko Gorge covers a huge protected area stretching from the Pacific coast all the way up into Taiwan’s high mountains—some over 3,400 meters tall. The 19-kilometer-long gorge cuts through the landscape, creating jaw-dropping views and dramatic scenery.

Because of the changes in altitude, the climate and landscape shift as you move through the park. The hiking trails wind through steep valley slopes carved out over centuries by rivers and waterfalls. The whole place was way more impressive than I expected—even though I only explored the easier, more accessible trails. I didn’t do any of the tougher mountain hikes that need more planning or gear.

As for Hualien city itself, there’s not a whole lot to write about—except when it comes to food. It’s a solid place for foodies, with loads of restaurants, street eats, and lively food markets. The commercial area is buzzing, mixing modern international brands with older, traditional shops that still have that old-school Chinese decor.


The fact that Hualien is right by the ocean could be a bonus, but the city doesn’t seem to make much of it. To even reach the shoreline, you have to cross a truck-heavy road and walk through what feels like a half-abandoned industrial zone—not the most inviting walk, especially on foot.

The Dongdamen Night Market, found at the end of Zhongshan Road (Hualien’s main street), is a bit different from the typical Taiwanese night market scene. Usually, you’ll find a bunch of pop-up food stands lining random streets, filling the air with mouthwatering smells. But here in Hualien, the night market feels more planned out. It’s set up in a big open space a bit away from the main shopping district. The stalls are more like proper booths, arranged neatly along wide walkways. It’s weirdly organized for a night market, which are usually a bit chaotic—but in a fun way.

Dongdamen is mostly about food, especially seafood and fish. If you’re vegetarian, your options are pretty limited here. Things start picking up around sunset, when locals swing by after work to grab takeout or hang out for a meal with friends or family. Alongside the food, there are also a few stalls selling cheap clothes and random knickknacks. It’s also just a nice place for a casual evening stroll—though it can get crowded, so moving around isn’t always easy.

Where to Stay in Hualien

Thanks to its proximity to Taroko Gorge, Hualien has tons of accommodation options, especially for backpackers. There are plenty of hostels with dorms since it’s a regular stop on the backpacker trail.

I stayed at The Sleeping Booth Hostel, which is conveniently located about halfway between the train station and downtown Hualien. The dorms are comfy, and the whole place has a cozy, laid-back vibe with a really welcoming common area.

The staff were amazing—super friendly and always ready to help. They gave great tips not just about the city, but also on visiting Taroko Gorge—like which trails to take, how to get there using public transport, and other up-to-date info that only locals usually know.

There’s also a laundry service and a kitchen you can use, which is super handy if you’re traveling on a budget.

Where to Eat in Hualien

If you’re up early and want a traditional Taiwanese breakfast, there’s a small, almost hidden food stall right on the corner next to the Sleeping Booth Hostel. It opens at 5 a.m. and serves all the classics—omelets, egg pancakes, steamed buns, soymilk… basically, all the carbs you’ll need to fuel a day of hiking!

As you walk down Zhongshan Road, Hualien’s main commercial street, you’ll come across plenty of restaurants. Around Gongzheng Street, there’s a small street market packed with low-key, affordable spots serving Taiwanese food. Some offer buffet-style service, where it’s actually pretty easy to put together a decent vegetarian meal based around rice and veggies.

For dinner, Dongdamen Night Market is a lively option, especially if you’re into seafood—but just a heads-up, vegetarian choices are pretty limited there.

Hualien County Information Center

If you’re arriving by train, as soon as you leave the station building, look to your right. Just a few meters away, you’ll spot a big, grey, solid-looking building—that’s where the Tourist Information Center is located.

It’s a great place to pick up maps, suggested itineraries, and up-to-date bus schedules for Taroko Gorge. The staff are also super helpful if you need detailed, reliable info about transportation options for your next destination.

How to Get from Hualien to Taroko Gorge

The Hualien Bus Company runs two main routes to Taroko Gorge—bus 1133A and 1133. Both depart from Hualien Train Station and head toward Tianxiang, passing through Xincheng Station, the Taroko National Park Visitor Center, and several stops inside the gorge.

  • 1-day bus pass: NT$250
  • 2-day bus pass: NT$400
    The ride takes about 45 minutes from Hualien Station to Tianxiang.

One important thing to know: there are two separate bus services in the Taroko Gorge area—one starting from Hualien Station, and the other from Xincheng Station. The bus pass you buy in Hualien won’t work on the Xincheng route, so make sure you’re getting on the right one. If you don’t have a pass, no problem—you can always buy a ticket directly on the bus.

Just be aware that buses in the gorge don’t always run on time, especially the further you get into the route. Delays tend to increase the closer you get to Tianxiang.

Where to Buy the Bus Pass to Taroko Gorge

As you exit Hualien Train Station, look to your left—you’ll see a small orange building across from the Hualien County Information Center. That’s the ticket counter for the Hualien Bus Company, where you can buy the bus pass for Taroko Gorge, as well as tickets to other destinations.

The 1133A bus stops right in front of this building, so it’s super convenient to hop on once you’ve got your ticket.

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I’m Catarina, a wanderer from Lisbon, Portugal… or a backpack traveller with a camera!

Every word and photo here comes from my own journey — the places I’ve stayed, the meals I’ve enjoyed, and the routes I’ve taken. I travel independently and share it all without sponsors or ads, so what you read is real and unfiltered.

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