About Mokokchung we can resume that is a banal and boring city. But at the same time has everything to be nice: organized, clean, quiet and with a location that offers a wide view of the green-covered mountains that surround this city. Mokokchung pops up as the culture center of the Ao tribe, one of the several ethnic groups that constitute the state of Nagaland in northeast India.
Having started the journey in Nagaland at the top north of the state, by the region of Mon, Mokokchung appeared on the map as an intermediate stopping point on the journey to Kohima, on the south of Nagaland, whose mountainous features always require long trips. But to my surprise, there is no passable road from Mon to Mokokchung inside Nagaland state, being necessary to the neighboring state of Assam, taking advantage of their flat and in reasonable condition roads, then get back to Nagaland, towards Mokokchung or Kohima.
But after the human aridity and the rugged landscape of the Mon region, which left an intense and not that nice memory of the stay at Mon, this second time, with the Ao tribe, ethnically and culturally different from Konyak, the land of Nagas showed another face.
Early on, passing through the village of Tuli, we are greeted by colorful flowers that adorn vases and gardens at houses entrances, as well as plants that appear to arise spontaneously at the roadside. Houses whose wood and bamboo construction, are immaculately groomed, painted in soft colors that blend with the landscape. A landscape also mountainous, but more “soft” with a brighter and fresh green… as if here the life is more enjoyable!
A more welcoming people, very curious, and willing to do a bit of conversation, to “know” those who come from far away to visit these places, where English is “lingua franca” in which most people are able to communicate. This shows the importance given to education, which is evident in Nagaland as well as Magalahya.
Mokokchung itself arouses little interest. It’s necessary to visit the neighbouring villages to get in touch with the Ao culture. But there is no public transport to these small villages, and the taxi was a too expensive option, that force me to stay in Mokokchung where was little to do, besides rest of intense and long trips. The population in Nagaland, as some of the neighbouring states, is strongly Christian, as a result of the missionary that arrived around the ninth century, so Sunday is scrupulously respected as a day of rest, where all the shops and services are closed. And here “all” means really all, because there is no shop or even a restaurant open throughout the city… no taxis, no buses or sumos, the only thing open are the churches corresponding to the various currents of Christianity.
This made my stay in Mokokchung longer than expected, with the Sunday spent at the hotel, including meals because neither the Hindus of restaurants open on Sundays!!!
Where to stay in Mokokchung:
Mokokchung is not yet prepared to guesthouses or other accommodation for backpackers. The signs “hostels” refer to long-term residences for students from other locations, and do not rent rooms.
However, two of the city’s hotels have dormitories or rooms with several beds. The dorms are mixed, which may create obstacles to women if there’s already beds occupied by men.
Hotel Metsuben and Whispering Winds are formal hotels, with dwell infrastructure and services but where prices are unsympathetic to backpacker, but where a bed in a dorm costs between 300 to 350 rupees.
- Whispering Winds: http://www.whisperingwinds.co.in/
- Hotel Metsuben: https://www.facebook.com/hotelmetsuben
Both are located outside the city center, but within a reasonable distance to be done on foot. The choice was to Whispering Winds, situated on the top one of the hills, opposite the Hotel Metsuben.
Onde comer em Mokokchung:
Where to eat in Mokokchung:
Mokokchung didn’t stand out for food, lying along the I.M. Road several cafes serving parathas, samosas and some snacks. Here you begin to notice some influence of Indian culture, and may even find a lassi or paneer.
In I.M. Road, above the “Friendly’s Restaurant” there’s “The Restaurant” with a pleasant atmosphere serving Indian food (rice and curry) and Asian food (chow mein, noodles, etc…).
Transportes em Mokokchung:
Transport in Mokokchung:
Despite the strong stiffness of the streets, which means always going up and down in a kind of zig-zag, Mokokchung is doable on foot. However, there are buses along the main roads identified as City Ride, which can save you so effort. From the center of the city (near police circle) up near the hotel Whispering Winds it costs 10 rupees.
How to get to Mokokchung:
Due to the poor condition of the roads of Nagaland, in part by the lack of investment and maintenance, and partly the winding terrain, there isn’t a road that connects directly to Mon to Mokokchung.
So from Mon is necessary to go to Sonai, in Assam, go through Simaluguri and Amguri, and then get back to Nagaland, through Tuli. From Tuli is 4 more hours of mountain road until Mokokchung.
From Mon there’s a sumo service to Mokokchung, daily (except Sundays), by 6 am. You must book in advance (Travel Link). The sumos have a specific terminal in Mokokchung, near the market, not far from the city center, where is the bus terminal of the NTC (Nagaland Transport Corporation).
- sumo from Mon to Mokokchung: 650 rupees (8 hours)
How to go from Mokokchung to Kohima or Dimapur:
Mokokchung has a great offer in terms of public transport.
In the city center (a police circle) is located the bus terminal of the NTC (Nagaland Transport Corporation), with connections to Guwahati, Dimapur and Kohima.
For other destinations, such as Mon, you must use the sumo, starting from a small terminal near the fresh market.
To Dimapur and Kohima there are many companies offering this service along I.M. Road, near the Police Circle.
- public bus from Mokokchung to Kohima: 220 rupees
at 6 a.m. part (8 hours)
- sumo from Mokokchung to Kohima : 430 rupees
6 a.m. and 10 a.m (6 hours)
- sumo from Mokokchung to Dimapur (night service): departs at 4:30 p.m and arrives near the 5 a.m.
elevation: 1325
population: 35,913