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Search Results for: China

Malaysian food… underestimated cuisine!

Two things stand out in the cuisine of Malaysia… the ethnic, cultural and religious diversity that brings us to China, India, Thailand, Indonesia… and the rice which is present in almost all dishes.

From the staying in Borneo and West Malaysia several representative dishes of Malaysian cuisine remain, like lontong, laksa, nasi lemak, nasi goreng… “nasi” means rice and “goreng” refers to fried, so fried rice is one of the dishes easily find anywhere at any time of day, usually made with chicken, beef or seafood, with pork away from a gastronomy of a Muslim country.

Being a predominantly muslim country, Malaysian cuisine is dominated by meat dishes, but the strong presence of the Chinese community as well the Tamil from South of India bring other options that suits the vegetarian diet! 

In terms of nasi goreng, there are many variants (kampung, pattaya, ayam …), differing ingredients, seasonings and spices, always excelling spicy. The nasi goreng pattaya is basically fried rice (fried rice with meat, seafood or vegetables), involved in egg and drizzled with a sweet and spicy condiment. In Borneo this dish is often served with a bowl of broth that makes it less dry. Despite being unpopular and does not appear in the menus it is also possible to order vegetarian nasi goreng, but that is almost always made with egg, and not many vegetables.

Nasi Goreng Pattaya. Malaysia
Nasi Goreng Pattaya. Malaysia

But it is the nasi lemak that is the “king” and can be considered the Malaysian national dish. Usually eaten for breakfast, being basic and very simple to prepare. It consists of rice and small portions of fried small anchovies, fried peanuts, cucumber slices and egg, that can be boiled or fried. This meal can be served on the plate or wrapped in banana leaf for take-away. But what makes this special dish is the sambal, a red and thick paste, made with chilies, onion, ginger, garlic, anchovies and a few more spices, resulting in a very tasty mixture.

Nasi Lemak. Malaysia
Nasi Lemak. Malaysia

Laksa is another popular Malay dish that can be classified between a soup and a curry. It’s basically a broth, sweet and spicy, which includes the coconut milk, ginger, lime leaf (kaffir) and lemongrass, which involves fine rice noodles and bean sprouts. To this base usually is added meat, but you can also order it with tofu.

In Borneo, the laksa is creamier, with more coconut milk and usually served with tofu and seafood, where seafood comes down to shrimp or squid… but wherever it is always served with lime that brings out the other flavors.

Laksa. Kota Kinabalu. Malaysia
Laksa. Kota Kinabalu. Malaysia

Laksa. Melaka. Malaysia
Laksa. Melaka. Malaysia

Lontong, a traditional Indonesian dish that was built in Malaysian cuisine, and its vegetarian in is origin. Made with a compressed rice with a roll shape, cut in big pieces. To these these “chunks” is added a soft vegetable curry cooked in coconut milk, to which joins tofu, tempeh and boiled egg (or sometimes fried). Like the nasi lemak is served with a spoonful of sambal, also part of the popular dishes eaten for breakfast.

Lontong. Malaysia
Lontong. Malaysia

A popular snack in Borneo, and probably can also be found in the rest of Malaysia is called fried carrot cake, which despite its name has nothing to do with carrots, made from cooked and compressed rice-shaped blocks, which are cut into pieces and fried with egg, spicy and sometimes with soy sauce. Unhealthy due to amount of oil but very delicious.

In cities, especially in neighbourhoods dominated by Indian culture, often called Little India, it’s easy to find the traditional cuisine of southern India as a result of the strong presence of the Tamil community living here for generations. In addition to the delicious curries that give life to a dish of rice, often served in a banana leaf, you can also find murtabak, dosas and other typical Indian snacks, served with coconut chutney and sambar.

But what stands out are the roti canai, also called roti prata or paratta. It is a flat unleavened bread, but whose dough is extended until get very thin, thrown with mechanical and precise gestures against the table, repeatedly until almost getting ripped, in a process that requires a lot of oil. After is extended and rolled to create rough layers and is then fried in a metal plate until crisp and slightly toasted. The roti is accompanied by a small dish of curry, were it is is soaked.

You can find several versions of this roti, stuffed with egg, banana, sweetened milk…

Roti canai. Malaysia
Roti canai. Malaysia

From the presence of the Chinese community, result many restaurants and all variations around the noodles soup and fried noodles, and along with nasi goreng, are a popular option and easy to find at any time of day. As they are prepared at the moment they can be made in a vegetarian variant, where it is often added tofu, a notorious influence of Chinese cuisine.

The fried rice noodles in Malaysia answering to the name Kueh Teow Goreng, and are always made with egg, bean sprouts and some raw chives.

Kueh Teow Goreng. street food. Kuching. Malaysia
Kueh Teow Goreng. street food. Kuching. Malaysia

The dim sum, traditional Cantonese meal steamed in bamboo baskets, is a presence in some Chinese restaurants, some of which still retain the traditional system in which the food is circulated in trolleys through the tables with customers choose the food among the dozens of varieties… were hardly can be find vegetarian food.

Very popular in areas with the highest concentration of the Chinese community, as are the Chinatown in different cities of Malaysia, are the shops specialised in dried meat that is prepared in different ways, ranging from sweet to spicy.

But what stands out the Chinese food, resulting from the attractive price and the wide range of options is the rice dish serve in buffet style: a plate of with a portion of rice were different dishes are added chosen from trays of food, which can be meat, fish, eggs, vegetables and the popular tofu that is cooked in different ways. This system is very popular, not limited to Chinese cuisine, extending the Malaysian food restaurants that although more focus in meat also offer a wide variety in terms of vegetarian food. Just need to ask for “rice” and we are given a plate with of rice for each one add the dishes.

Rice plate restaurant. George Town. Malaysia
Rice plate restaurant. George Town. Malaysia

Rice plate. George Town. Malaysia
Rice plate. George Town. Malaysia
Rice plate street food. George Town. Malaysia
Rice plate street food. George Town. Malaysia

About street food, Malaysia will get a lot of inspiration to neighboring Thailand, and is easier to find in the cities of the north of the country than for example in Borneo. In small stalls that arise several hours a day in specific locations of the city can be found apom, steam rice cake, fried banana, and the popular and delicious apam balik that are pancakes stuffed peanuts… and many more delicious options that also include snacks, often fried.

Apom. George Town. Malaysia
Apom. George Town. Malaysia
street stall of chendul (chendol). George Town. Malaysia
street stall of chendul (chendol). George Town. Malaysia

Markets are also great places to enjoy and experience the wide variety of food, a lot of which is difficult to identify, whether it is sweet or salt, whether it is meat or vegetarian… but always arouses curiosity.

Street food. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia
Street food. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia
Shellfish. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia
Shellfish. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia

As a tropical country abound bananas, mangoes and papayas… but also in the markets as street vendors also are pineapple, jackfruit, watermelon and melons… but it is the durian, the king of tropical fruits, much appreciated as hated by intense and characteristic smell, that make it forbidden to carry in the subway.

Durian. Kota Kinabalu. Malaysia
Durian. Kota Kinabalu. Malaysia
Fruits. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia
Fruits. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia

Sweets

The chendul (or chendol) is a traditional cold sweet very popular in Malaysia, based on coconut milk and crushed ice, sweetened with palm sugar syrup and served with a green noodles (whose color comes from a vegetable often used in sweets and dishes, the pandan) and a few sweetened beans. It may seem odd but it is delicious and refreshing and in some places, like George Town people line up in small street stalls to buy chendul.

Chendul (chendol). Melaka. Malaysia
Chendul (chendol). Melaka. Malaysia
Fry Banana. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia
Fry Banana. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia
Sweet and deep fry snacks at Central Market. Kota Kinabalu. Malaysia
Sweet and deep fry snacks at Central Market. Kota Kinabalu. Malaysia

Very popular is kaya, a coconut and egg jam, that sometimes can have the green color, if it’s added pandan. Kaya is used to spread on toast, which served with eggs and tea is also one of the option in terms of traditional breakfast in Malaysia, mainly in cities. Kaya Jam is also used to fill puff tarts as the ones sold in a small corner shop in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown.

Kaya Jam. Malaysia
Kaya Jam at breakfast. Malaysia
Coconut puff tart. Chinatown. Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia
Coconut puff tart. Chinatown. Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia

Adding to the list of popular sweet is the beancurd (also called soybean pudding) a kind of pudding made of soy, which is sweetened with palm sugar syrup, is also popular in most dominant Chinese areas.

Beancurd. Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia
Beancurd. Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia

Drinks

Being a predominantly Muslim country, alcohol is unusual at local restaurants but is easy to find in bars and restaurants in more tourist sites, especially the beer.

But the most popular in terms of drinks is teh tarik, which is tea to which is added sweetened milk, and can be served hot or with ice (teh ais). It is consumed in the morning, usually hot, accompanying meals, like roti canai for example, or during the day, as a break in the workday.

Coffee is also easy to find, being in Malaysia usual the filtered coffee, served in a very strong version in terms of caffeine, with a dense and dark look but soft flavor.

Teh Ais (Ice tea with condensed meilk). Malaysia
Teh Ais (Ice tea with condensed meilk). Malaysia
Coffee. Malaysia
Coffee. Malaysia

For vegetarian food the best option are the Indian restaurants, due to the influence of the Hindu religion and some Chinese restaurants that resulting to the connection with Buddhist religion can sometimes exclude animal products. In restaurants more targeted to the Malay cuisine is notorious the strong presence of meat dishes, and yet respecting the halal rules, which pork is exclude. Yet pork meat is quite popular in Chinese dishes.

In general there are few dishes exclusively vegetarian in Malaysia gastronomy, and even those who appear to have no animal products, can often be served with a condiment called “sambal” that includes anchovies or any other small fish.

For those who are used to eating knife and fork, it is here to adapt to the use spoon and fork, because the knife is an instrument that does not arrive at the table, being unnecessary since the food is cut into pieces being brought to mouth by the spoon, serving the fork to push food into the spoon. In Malaysia the food is take to mouth with the right hand. In Indian restaurants it is common to use the fingers to bring food to the mouth, but spoons are always available. Spoon and chopsticks are used in Chinese restaurants. In general, the restaurants do not have napkins.

And as in other Asian countries the first meal of the day is made on the basis of rice and noodles, soups or curries. The rotis are also popular for breakfast. Many restaurants serving breakfast open at 6 am, but this are not always open until dinnertime, closing by 3 or 4 pm. But there are others who not opening so soon, serve meals until dinnertime, but not much later than 9 pm. Take-away system is very popular with both restaurants and street stall to be prepared to parcel food in proper containers or more traditionally in banana leaf.

Rice and curry for for take away. Malaysia
Rice and curry for for take away. Malaysia

In general, even with the limited vegetarian choices, Malaysia gastronomy offers a great diversity of flavours, with simple dishes, fast and easy to prepare but very tasty… I miss the laksa, lontong and nasi lemak.

Food Costs in Malaysia

In food courts a meal costs between 3.5 and 5 RM, which means that you can easily get a meal for 1 €.

The same applies to the so-called rice plat, with two or three varieties of vegetarians side dishes costs about 4 MR. The food costs in Kuala Lumpur are a bit higher were a rice plate eaten in a restaurant can costs about 5 RM, but van be cheaper is a street food stall

Dishes with meat, fish or seafood always have higher prices.

A walk trough Taman Negara National Park

The natural park of Taman Negara retains one of the oldest rain forests of the world, and is one of the most important park in Peninsular Malaysia attracting enough visitors, both local and foreign. For this reason it is well organized, accessible, and with easy orientation… as a result, the chances of wildlife observation are few and mainly limited to the dense forest; only the ones that opt ​​for longer trails that can take longer one day, could be luckier to spot animals.

The best time to visit the park is out of the rainy season that begins in October and lasts until February. The peak of the tourism season is between April and August. In December rain is not guaranteed, but can arise so suddenly, most od the time in the afternoon; when the day raise sunny and with a sky without cloudless, which makes the air warm enough to form clouds, is almost inevitably to bring rain.

The park is very easy orientation, at least in the tracks near the head quarters, with signs indicating the direction and the correspondent distances, so it is not necessary to use guides. A guide is about 30 RM for the trail to Bukit Teresek, which is the shortest one. Much of the journey to Bukit Teresek is made trough a deck and some stairs, with only a few areas in natural terrain. The access to the Canopy Walkway is also made by a platform.

This time of year, with rain being frequent, the choise was for the closest route of the park, with the walk to Bukit Teresek starting at 8 am reaching the viewpoint at the time of moisture clouds rising slowly from the canopy, forming a thin white layer that hides the blue sky. This show last for a little time with this steam disappearing as the sun warms the air.

In the way back, we arrive at the Canopy Walkway, a series of suspension bridges between the treetops that form a route with about 500 meters. In addition to the balance challenge we have a totally different viewpoint of trees and other vegetation, which constitutes this rich and diverse forest. Portions of this route are located about 30 meters from the ground, and support in trees with more than 250 years… thank you trees!

The journey to Bukit Teresek and Canopy Walkway doesn’t take more than three hours leaving time for a bath in the clear waters of the river Sungei Tahan, a few minutes form the park entrance.

As in terms of wild life this trail doesn’t have much to offer, but as a compensation the forest presents rich and diverse, and a slow walk allows to enjoy the small details of plants and trees, as also the way the light pass through the high and dense canopy creating a with range of greens.

But is not fair to say that we can’t find animal life, because the leeches are a constant presence in most wet parts of the trail, with these persistent animals to nest between the toes… unpleasant experience!

Kuala Tembeling
Kuala Tembeling

 

Kuala Tembeling
Kuala Tembeling

 

Tembeling River. Taman Negara
Tembeling River. Taman Negara

 

Canopy Walkway .Taman Negara
Canopy Walkway .Taman Negara

 

Canopy Walkway .Taman Negara
Canopy Walkway .Taman Negara

 

Canopy Walkway .Taman Negara
Canopy Walkway .Taman Negara

 

Canopy Walkway .Taman Negara
Canopy Walkway .Taman Negara

 

Taman Negara
Taman Negara

 

Taman Negara
Taman Negara

 

Taman Negara
Taman Negara

 

Taman Negara
Taman Negara

 

Taman Negara
Taman Negara

 

Taman Negara
Taman Negara

 

Taman Negara
Taman Negara

 

Taman Negara, during the storm
Taman Negara, during the storm that are usual during the rainy season

 

Taman Negara, after the storm
Taman Negara, after the storm

Kuala Tahan

The small village of Kuala Tahan, situated at the confluence of two rivers, hence the name “Kuala” meaning “junction of two rivers”: the Sungei Tahan of clear waters and Sungei Tembeling dragging a muddy color and that continues until Kuala Tembeling.

Kuala Tahan lives basically from tourism of Taman Negara, being little more than a street, with some restaurants, coffee shops, a internet “café”, travel agencies and some shops (only open in high season). From here you have two accesses to the pier where the long-boats stop and where you can find the “floating restaurants” that are built on rafts serve meals along all day.

Trough the streets of Kuala Tahan, you can find a few of false tourist information office, which are basically travel agencies that sell boat tickets and mini-van trips back to Kuala Tembeling or Kuala Lumpur. Here is also a good place to find accommodation in different styles and budgets: bungalow and guest houses that offer rooms or dorms. Resorts are located a bit away from Kuala Tahan, reached by car that are usually provided by the resort.

In December, having officially begun the rainy season the presence of visitors was discreet, keeping the village streets empty during most of the day except at dinner time, where the only open restaurant serve meals (Que Restaurant) and is also a meeting place for locals to drinking tea or beer while watching a football game on a big screen.

However the busiest time in Kuala Tahan is in the morning, with activity starting early by 7.00 in the morning, with local people gathering in the same restaurant (still closed at this time) for breakfast. On the main road food vendors line up, with serving meals or wrapped food in banana leaf for take-away. Delicious food and pleasant environment that eased the three hours waiting for the bus back to Kuala Tembeling.

Kuala Tahan pier.
Kuala Tahan pier.

 

Kuala Tahan main street with bus stop at the end
Kuala Tahan main street with bus stop at the end

Costs inside Taman Negara:

Entry into the park: 1 RM

Use of camera or iPhone: 5 RM

Canopy Walkway: 5 RM, paid at the beginning or end of the section, as the sense that it makes the route.

Boat to cross the river between Kuala Tahan the entrance of Taman Negara: 1 RM (the trip takes about 2 minutes). The boat start early in the morning, even before 7 am.

Taman Negara fees
Taman Negara fees

 

Canopy Walkway ticket. Taman Negara
Canopy Walkway ticket. Taman Negara

Accommodation in Kuala Tahan:

Around Kuala Tahan are some resorts.

Inside the park, near the head-quarters is also a sophisticated resort, the Mutiara Taman Negara, which has various accommodation options for various prices, as also a dorm, with air-conditioning for 28 RM. The disadvantage is that the outside walks there is not much to do on this side of the river, while in Kuala Tahan, you can watch the peaceful daily life of the population and find cheaper options for food.

The main street of Kuala Tahan are small signs indicating the name of hotels and guest houses, most with only double rooms (with prices of around 60 RM) but where there are some guest-houses with dorms (between price 20 and the 25 RM).

The choice was for Rayyan Hostel, located just off the waterfront, up the ramp on the left that leads to the village of Kuala Tahan. Here there are only dormitories with shared bathroom, with the fan switch (20 RM) or air-conditioner (25 RM). The place is simple and modest, with the friendly and helpful owner, with reasonable toilets and shower (with hot water) made pleasant the two nights here.

Rayyan Hostel. Kuala Tahan
Rayyan Hostel. Kuala Tahan

 

Rayyan Hostel. Kuala Tahan
Rayyan Hostel. Kuala Tahan

Where to eat in Kuala Tahan

In addition to the “floating restaurants” that have more atmosphere but are a bit more expensive, the Que Restaurant, located at the corner of Main Street and the street that leads to the pier in front of the school is a good option, with food made to order, with also vegetarian dishes.

As this restaurant is closed in the morning, the option for breakfast are food stalls that are installed in the same location as the restaurant from 7.00 am, serving curries and nasi that are the choice for breakfast of Malaysians, for how rice is indispensable presence at any meals; for the most delicious nasi lemak sign savored in Malaysia, and certainly the cheapest, by 3 RM.

Right next door another restaurant serves rotis from the 8.00 am.

And in the same area, another small space serves tea and coffee, hot or with ice.

Que Restaurant. Kuala Tahan
Que Restaurant. Kuala Tahan

 

Kuala Tahan. Local food stall in mais street during mornings
Kuala Tahan. Local food stall in mais street during mornings

How to get from Kuala Lumpur to Taman Negara

The easiest option is to use the services of a travel agency that ensures the connections between bus and boat. The option was for Han Travels that has a branch in Chinatown in Complex Selancor in Jalang Sultan, in front of the hotel Swiss Inn.

Han Travel office @ Kuala Lumpur
Han Travel office @ Kuala Lumpur

The bus leaves at 8.30 am. Is advisable to buy the ticket one day, especially if high season, but if you want buy tin he same day is better to reached a bit earlier, around 8.00 am.

The trip by mini-van to Kuala Tembeling (takes 3 hours) plus the boat ride to Kuala Tahan (3 hours) costs 95 RM. The trip in mini-van is performed at high speed with the driver doing risky overtakes, resulting that the arrival Kuala Tembeling was around 11.30h, being then necessary to wait until 13.00h for the boat start the trip.

Boat schedules. Kuala Tembeling
Boat schedules. Kuala Tembeling

Alternative without travel agencies:

  • Go to the Perkeliling Bus Terminal in Kuala Lumpur, and catch a bus to Jerantut: 9:30 am 10:45 am 12:00 pm 5:30 pm 3.30pm; Ticket 19 RM.
  • In Jerantut there are no buses to Kuala Tembeling so it is necessary to use a taxi (16 kilometers away).
  • The boat Kuala Tembeling to Kuala Tahan costs 45 RM.

 

How to go from Taman Negara to Kuala Lumpur:

The way back can be done similarly, but with the boat trip could be replaced by mini-van. The Han Travels trip to KL start at 10:00 am, and must be booked the day before, in one of the floating restaurants that also work as offices to this travel agency.

Free alternative travel agencies:

  • Local Bus from Kuala Tahan for Jerantut.

The bus leaves the main street of Kuala Tahan, where are located the restaurants and shops, opposite the Internet cafe.

The bus schedule change according the day of the week as also between high and low season, so you should check schedule with local people. Guaranteed every day is the bus at 10.00 and 15.00 h. During high season there are also buses to 7.30h, 12.00h and even during the afternoon.

The journey is pleasant and takes 1.5 hours through the forest until Jerantut.

Ticket: 7 RM

Bus from Kuala Tahan to Jerantut
Bus from Kuala Tahan to Jerantut
  • From the bus terminal in Jerantut there are daily buses to Kuala Lumpur (Pekelinling Bus Terminal): 8.45pm, 10.00h, 13.30h, 14.45h, 19.30h 16.00he (the latter only on Sundays).

The journey takes 3.5 hours, depending on traffic on arrival in Kuala Lumpur

Ticket: 19 RM.

If the buses are full there are mini-van service that departs at 12.00h, which costs 40 RM, also bound for Pekelinling Bus Terminal. The journey takes 2 hours.

Pekelinling Bus Terminal is located in the northern suburbs of Kuala Lumpur, and right by the terminal is located on the Monorail line. To get to Chinatown, the closest Monorail station is Maharajalela Station. Ticket 3.3 RM.

Kuala Lumpur… the big city

A city that changes abruptly and that surprises and challenges us: from a compact and uniform urban area, we are faced with huge office towers; a walk through side streets bumped long avenues where traffic is intense and often congested; from a colonial architecture we jump to modern and bold buildings; shopping streets that end in freeways that create almost insurmountable barriers; garden and green areas isolated by massive concrete viaducts.

The usual hustle and bustle of everyday Asian shocked by the aggressive urban traffic… an accumulation of contrasts that left a memory of an attractive city, where the main activities are shopping in malls and visiting the skyscrapers and towers that are the brand image of the city of Kuala Lumpur.

Despite the big growing that Malaysia’s economy had in recent years, and which the Petrona Towers and the Menara KL Tower are proud symbols, the city of Kuala Lumpur mirror the social and economic contrasts, with the city attracting not only the rural population as well as a large number of immigrants, many from Indonesia, that not always find here the expected success.

The area of ​​Chinatown is an example of these asymmetries, bringing together many homeless, beggars and drug addicts, although without noted danger in terms of security in the streets, even at night, and yet no attractive for night walks.

Nearby is the calling Colonial District… where examples of British colonial architecture, both churches and train stations (as Kuala Lumpur Station) as also public and administrative buildings, now turned into museums.

He was to miss a visit to Batu Caves… a green oasis in the middle of this giant capital.

Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur

 

Chinatown. Kuala Lumpur
Chinatown. Kuala Lumpur

 

Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur

 

Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur

 

Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur

 

Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur

 

Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur

 

Kuala Lumpur Train Station. Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur Train Station. Kuala Lumpur

Accommodation:

Kuala Lumpur offers many options in terms of accommodation, for various budgets. Chinatown is reputed to gathering the largest number of budget hotel and guest houses, thus attracting most backpacker who in general do not take longer than a day or two, and KL often the last stop of those who traveling through Southeast Asia.

Good location, easy accesses by public transport, great offer in terms of food make Chinatown an attractive place. The area attracts many homeless, beggars and drug addicts, without noted danger in terms of security in the streets.

In terms of price a double room in Chinatown, with shared toilet, free wi-fi and basic breakfast (bread, jam, margarine, tea and coffee) is not less than 60 RM. For this budget ​​there are many options, and worth to walk around Jalan Tun H.S. Lee and the Jalan Sultan, because there are significant differences between the condition offers by different guesthouses.

The choice was for the Submarine Guest House, modern, not very large and quiet, with a nice common area. It has no breakfast but you can use the utensils, microwave, kettle and existing refrigerator.

Submarine Guest House

Address: 206, Jalan Tun HS Lee, Kuala Lumpur 56100, Wilayah Persekutuan, Kuala Lumpur. (There is another next to Central Market)

Double room: officially is 70 RM, but can be bargain to 50 RM (room without window, and with air-conditioner).

Bed Dorm: 30 RM

Shared-toilet; free wi-fi; water-refill available.

Chinatown is easily accessible from Pasar Seni (LRT) and the Maharajalela Station (Monorail), or Plaza Rakyat, near the Puduraya Bus Station (LRT).

However KL Sentral is far and difficult to reach on foot.

Submarine Guest House. Chinatown. Kuala Lumpur
Submarine Guest House. Chinatown. Kuala Lumpur

 

Where to eat:

There are many choices in the Chinatown area, but the prices are a bit higher in KL than in other Malaysian cities, particularly along the Jalang Petaling where the large presence of tourists inflates prices and would decrease the quality.

The choice location for good quality food, the hygiene and the friendliness (with some fluctuations depending on the staff) went to the Al Ariffin Restaurant, serving Malaysian food but belonging to the Tamil community, with many vegetarian options, a wide range rice dishes (nasi) delicious rottis and tandori oven where to cook naan, traditional Indian bread. Also with self-service system with rice based dishes were the costs depend on the number of side dishes is about 4 MR. Delicious ice-tea… but with condensed milk!!!

Al Ariffin Restaurant

Address: Jalan Sultan Mohammed, directly opposite the bus station and MRT station Pasar Seni.

Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur

But it’s worth a walk into Jalang Petaling, despite the confusion, noise and permanently busy to taste the delicious Bean Curd (a kind of pudding made from soybeans that is sweetened with palm sugar syrup), which is sold daily in a small stall in aluminum and jornal articles with articles about the “famous” bean curd… it’s not easy to find, despite the frequent line of clients, just ask to any of the street vendors.

Bean Curd @ Jalang Petaling, Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur
Bean Curd @ Jalang Petaling, Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur

 

At the corner of Jalan Tun HS Lee and Jalan Tun Cheng Lock, a tiny shop is that can easily go unnoticed, S ‘Ban Siew Pow, whose schedule is difficult to figure. But it is worth making a few tries to be able to taste the delicious paties made form puff pastry filled with sweet coconut jam. Also available are other stuffed savory varieties with pork.

Sweets from S’ Ban Siew Pow @ Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur
Sweets from S’ Ban Siew Pow @ Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur

 

Sweets from S’ Ban Siew Pow @ Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur
Sweets from S’ Ban Siew Pow @ Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur

 

How to go from TBS (Terminal Bersepadu Selatan) to Chinatown (Kuala Lumpur)

Arriving at the terminal TBS are left near a set of escalators that lead to the main hall of the terminal; here a little after a short walk you can see a exit on the right side, with indications of KLIA, providing access to the footbridge; on the other side are stairs and elevator to reach the ground floor. When you reach the street, walk to the right side (for who is facing the giant terminal building); just after the taxi rank is a bus stop.

The Bus 690, Rapid KL takes 20 minutes (out of rush hours) and ends at Pudu Sentral (Puduraya), near the Plaza Raykat building; from here is 5 minutes walking to Jalang Petaling, the heart of Chinatown in Kuala Lumpur.

To make the return trip, the Bus 690, start the journey back to TBS at the same place where it ends: in Jalang Pudu, Pudu Sentral near the (Puduraya). Attention, Bus 690 does not stop inside the terminal but on the street, in a parking area next to Jalang Pudu.

Bus ticket (TBS to Pudu Sentral-Puduraya): 2 RM.

 

Bus 690, from TBS to Pudu Sentral (Puduraya). Kuala Lumpur
Bus 690, from TBS to Pudu Sentral (Puduraya). Kuala Lumpur

Alternative:

Crossing the pedestrian bridge outside the TBS, follow the signs to the train station KTM-Komuter. Follow Seremban Line to KL Sentral line (2.4 RM). At KL Sentral change train and take the LRT to Pasar Seni (1.4 RM). This alternative is more expensive but has the advantage of being more reliable at rush hours, as the traffic in Kuala Lumpur can make the bus trip between the city and TBS takes over an hour.

Tickets, Bus 690, from TBS to Pudu Sentral (Puduraya). Kuala Lumpur
Tickets, Bus 690, from TBS to Pudu Sentral (Puduraya). Kuala Lumpur

Malacca or Melaka?!?

The day rises hot with the intense light of the sun relentless hurting the eyes and force us to seek refuge in the shadows of the low-rise buildings of the old part of the town. But reaching the middle of the day, the blue sky quickly disappears with the silent arrival of heavy gray clouds, which bring with them a moist, thick air. The wind that brings some relief to the heavy atmosphere announces storm and with routine gesture merchants withdraw the products to inside the shops. Suddenly, heavy raindrops fill the streets of water, forcing all people to seek shelter in accelerated step imposed by the pace of thunder. A show that leave many people as if hypnotised watching the water gushing from the eaves of the roofs, or peering into the sky in hopes of seeing the luminous trail of lightning.

Melaka_DSC_6224
Melaka
Melaka_DSC_6234
Chinatown. Melaka

Melaka, or also called Malacca, whose name comes from a tree, have a long history and significant impotence in economy and culture of Malay people. It was since the beginning of the fifteenth century successively under Portuguese rule, Dutch and later under the British, due to its privileged position next to Indonesia and strategic location on the trade route between Asia and Europe. From this European presence that lasted until 1957 result strong architectural heritage, military, civil and religious, which is now the historic center, named a World Heritage Site by Unesco. In this compact area formed by the main square – Jalan Gereja – and a small hill adjacent concentrate churches and many colonial buildings left by the Dutch and the British, with many of these buildings converted into museums.

Here are concentrated most of the attractions that give fame to Melaka, attracting the usual souvenirs shops, cafes and restaurants. And it is also here that focus dozens of cycle-rickshaws that left behind the simple local transport function to turned into tourist attraction, moving around the city playing loud music that echoes in the sleepy city streets. Each cycle-rickshaws is a proper naive art installation and a compliment to the kitsch, with decorations related to cartoons and other popular topics, whose passengers are more interested in taking selfies than in admiring the route through the city.

But just crossing a small bridge over the river and we arrive to Chinatown, which despite its name is a mixture of ethnic groups and cultures, but where the shop-houses remind us the presence Chinese traders who settled here for generation. It is here, in the calm and quiet streets that best can enjoy the relaxed pace of the city and its inhabitants, as well as traditional Malaya food, the nasi lemak, the laksa and lontong, taste the spicy Indian curries and try the sweet and refreshing cendol that despite being present in several Asian countries, has a special place here.

Revealing the ethnic and religious diversity that characterises Malaysia today, we can find at the same street, along the Jalan Tokong, the Majid Kampung Klig mosque and the Hindu temple Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi that at sometimes look that are in competition for attention, with the mullah calling for one of the five prayers of the day and the temple bells ringing frantically during the puja of the Hindu community.

Dutch Square. Melaka
Dutch Square. Melaka

 

Melaka
Melaka

 

Majid Kampung Klig. Chinatown. Melaka
Majid Kampung Klig. Chinatown. Melaka

 

Melaka
Melaka

 

Chinatown. Melaka
Chinatown. Melaka

 

Melaka
Melaka

 

Accommodation:

A good atmosphere in a guesthouse can make all the difference in the time that you spend in a city or place, and the quiet and friendly atmosphere of Jalan Jalan Guest House marked the stay in Malacca. Situated in the old town but away from the confusing environment of so-called Dutch Square (Jalan Gereja) entirely devoted to tourism, Jalan Jalan Guest House is located in a traditional building construction in wood, simple and unpretentious, in Chinatown neighborhood.

The staff is of the utmost kindness and friendly. Are places like these, that the environment and atmosphere make us stay longer than planned…

Jalan Jalan Guest House

Address: Jalan Tokong, 75200 Melaka, Malaysia

Phone: +60 19-655 1131

Double room: 40 RM

Dorm: 16 RM

Free wi-fi. Free coffe and tea.

Shared toilets.

Laundry Service.

Jalan Jalan Guest House. Melaka
room @ Jalan Jalan Guest House. Melaka

 

Jalan Jalan Guest House. Melaka
Dorm @ Jalan Jalan Guest House. Melaka
_Melaka_Jalan Jalan Guest house_DSC_6227
Jalan Jalan Guest House. Melaka
Jalan Jalan Guest House. Melaka
Jalan Jalan Guest House. Melaka
_Melaka_Jalan Jalan Guest house_DSC_6194
Jalan Jalan Guest House. Melaka

Where to eat:

Cendol:

The traditional iced sweet, very popular in Malaysia, made from coconut milk, ice, palm sugar syrup and served with a green noodles (whose color comes from a plant often used in jam, pandan) and sweet beans. You can find it easily in shops and restaurants in Melaka, but the choice was for a Chinese restaurant that has this sweet as a is specialty (20, Jalan Besi Tukang… same street of Jalan Jalan Guest House).

 

Cendol @ 20, Jalan Tukang Besi), Chinatown. Melaka
Cendol @ 20, Jalan Tukang Besi), Chinatown. Melaka

 

Malaysian Food:

Sayyid Antique (in Lorang Hang Jebat, opposite the Jalang Kampung Kuli) an antique shop where items for sale serve as decoration, and where a very nice couple serves simple and tasty Malaysian meals like nasi Lemak, longtong, laksa… and as the food is prepared on the moment you can ask for a vegetarian version with tofu. The atmosphere is quiet and cozy.

Sayyid Antique. Antique shop and restaurant. home-made Malay. food. Melaka
Sayyid Antique. Antique shop and restaurant. home-made Malay. food. Melaka

 

Lontong @ Sayyid Antique. Antique shop and restaurant. home-made Malay. food. Melaka
Lontong @ Sayyid Antique. Antique shop and restaurant. home-made Malay. food. Melaka

 

Laksa @ Sayyid Antique. Antique shop and restaurant. home-made Malay. food. Melaka
Laksa @ Sayyid Antique. Antique shop and restaurant. home-made Malay. food. Melaka

Indian food:

Sri Kaveri Catering (115, Lorang Hang Jebat) with tahli served in banana leaf, with the right to refill by 8 RM. Simples and basic restaurant, that also serves rotis.

Sri Kaveri Catering. Chinatown. Melaka
Sri Kaveri Catering. Chinatown. Melaka

 

How to go from Melaka Sentral to the city center (Jalan Gereja):

Arriving at Melaka Sentral bus terminal go into the building, a mix of bus terminal, waiting room and shopping center, and look for the signs “Domestic Bus“, from where the buses to Melaka departure.

Take Bus number 17 that stop at Dutch Square (Jalan Gereja).

Ticket: 1.5 RM

_Melaka_Bus from Sentral to City_DSC_6102 _Melaka_Bus from Sentral to City_DSC_6104

Food in Singapore… so may vegetarian options!!

Singapore is proud to be the culinary capital of Asia, receiving influences of Chinese Malaysian, Indian and Indonesia cuisines, as also Sri Lanka and Thailand. Arise even traces of Portuguese and English presence in the region, were the “portuguese egg tart” which is no more than the famous pastel-de-nata.

Singapore like any big city offers a wide range of choice in terms of restaurants, not only in terms of cuisine, where Asian food dominates but also with many Western and World option, but also in terms of cost of a meal.

And through the city, we are faced with the simplest and informal restaurants, whose space is open to the street, to the most sophisticated places, passing through many restaurants “a la carte” that feature a wide range of prices. In between is a myriad of choices, showing that food plays an important role in the social live of Singaporeans, that given the high purchasing power fill up restaurants, especially on Fridays and Saturdays.

And here we are faced with the question what really is the typical Singaporean food… the answer is: that’s a bit of everything, not a mixture of influences from which resulted an own cuisine that reflects the geographical position, climate, fauna and flora of the region, but an offer of diversity in terms of gastronomy that reflects the ethnic and religious diversity is what best defines this country-city-state.

10 local dishes to try in Singapore
10 local dishes to try in Singapore
Rochor Beancurd House: soy-milk, beancurd e “portuguese egg tart”!
Rochor Beancurd House: soy-milk, beancurd e “portuguese egg tart”!

The areas of Little India, Kampong Glam and Chinatown are the most attractive in terms of food, with any of them with options for all pockets. The shopping centers also have many options in terms of restaurants apart from fast food and big international food chains.

In Singapore the food although more expensive than in neighboring Asian countries is affordable, as you stick to food-courts and markets, as there isn’t in Singapore “street food”. These sites provide meals from 4 S$, which corresponds to € 2.5.

A bit all over the city, with the exception of the most sophisticated and wealthy areas (Wafles Place, Marina Bay, etc…) there are food-courts that comprised several kiosks, stall or small restaurants grouped in the same space sharing a common area consisting of tables and chairs, were people have meals or drinks. Each of these places has it own type of food that usually is served in take-away system. These food-courts could be huge to the point where a person almost get lost in there or of more modest dimensions, but they are always the cheapest and quickest option and the one that attracts most of the local people.

Usually these places offer several options in terms of food, Chinese, Malay, India … but some are more targeted to Chinese food, where it is sometimes difficult to find vegetarian food. The fried-rice and fried-noodles are easy to find and are a good vegetarian options, as the food is made in the moment and is possible to ask to replace the meat or seafood, for vegetables and sometimes tofu. Also very popular is the so called fast food or simply rice or rice plate, where food is exposed on trays in buffet style with many vegetarian options, and each person make his own plate, based on rice, paying for the number of varieties that are served. This type of meal can cost around 4 to 5 S$ and have a lot of choices for vegetarians, with lots of legumes, tofu and soy product dishes.

Chinatown Complex
Chinatown Complex
Chinatown Peoples Park Complex.
Chinatown Peoples Park Complex.
Chinatown. food court
Chinatown. food court

With so much diversity is not difficult to find vegetarian or even vegan restaurants, but these usually in more sophisticated areas of the city, and not so affordable. But Singapore brings together different types of cuisines and almost everywhere have at least one vegetarian option, with the Chinese food the most difficult in this field, and the Indiana the easiest since in Singapore there are a big Hindu community. The Malaysian food also has some traditional dishes, that depending on the restaurant may have or not animal products, but you can try to ask to replaced meat, fish or shellfish by tofu, which due to Chinese influence is quite popular.

But attention because sometimes the pastes that seasoning the food are often made with fish-source or other animal condiments. For vegans is more difficult as the eggs are a constant presence in many of the dishes.

Tooth Relic Temple
Tooth Relic Temple

Kampong Glam, the so-called Arab Quarter featuring up around the mosque Masjid Sultan, one can find food from Morocco, Tunisia, Turkey and Iran, as also many more options being an ideal place to enjoy traditional Malaysian dishes: laksa, lontong, nasi lemak, nasi goreng … where “nasi” means rice, that could be steamed or stir-fry in various forms and flavors, with vegetables, egg, chicken, beef or seafood… pork is excluded from Malay gastronomy as this is Muslim country.

The nasi lemak can be considered one of the most popular dishes from Malaysia and is usually consumed at breakfast, simple and very easy to prepare is based on rice with fried anchovies, fried peanuts, cucumber slices and egg (boiled or fried) at the side. The nasi lemak can be served on the plate or wrapped in banana leaf to take-away. But what makes this special dish is the sambal, a red paste resulting from a mix of chilies, onions, garlic, ginger and a few more spices, resulting in a spicy mixture, but very tasty.

Laksa is another popular Malaysian dishes easily found in Singapore, comprising a curry based on coconut milk, sweet and spice with ginger and lemongrass, which involves rice noodles and some vegetables. It may also served with shellfish.

Lontong is a traditional Indonesian dish that was built in Malaysian cuisine, and also popular in Singapore. Made with pressed rice forming a roll which is then cut into pieces seasoning with a vegetable curry cooked on coconut milk, to which joins tofu, tempeh and boiled egg. Like the nasi lemak, it adds a fish-based sambal.

Laksa
Laksa
Nasi Lemak
Nasi Lemak
lontong
lontong

Kampong Glam is one of the best places to try the biryani, an Indian dish made of rice, traditional in Muslim areas, but with a Malay “twist” with a strong meat presence. Here you can also appreciate the roti prata, or simply roti, or paratta, which is traditional South Indian specialty but that was incorporated in Malaysian cuisine being also very popular in Singapore. It is a flat bread, unleavened, but whose dough is extended to be very thin, with the help of much oil and then worked and flattened, in order to create rough layers, which later sintered in metallic surface until becomes slightly crispy. It is served with a small dish of curry, were pieces of the roti are soaked. We can find many versions of this dish, with the roti stuffed with egg, banana, sweetened milk…

roti @ Singapore Zam Zam Restaurant
roti @ Singapore Zam Zam Restaurant

For those who like Indian food, Little India is the place that offers best variety, especially focus traditional food of South India, as most of the Indian community resident here has his origins the state of Tamil Nadu. In addition to all the most popular type of snacks are the thalis with many restaurants serving this meal, vegetarian or non-vegetarian, in a banana leaf. Here are also the popular rotis, the dosa, uttapam, vada, puri, etc … Little India is also the best place to buy Indian origin products such as spices and condiments, lying in grocery stores a large variety of vegetables .

veg thali @ Famous Indian Curry Food Restaurant. Little India
veg thali @ Famous Indian Curry Food Restaurant. Little India

In Chinatown, even more than in other parts of the city, buzzing with activity around the food, dominating the food-courts, where you can meet hundreds of food stalls and find a bit of everything in terms of Asian cuisine, attracting thousands of people and open from morning until the evening, with food being served throughout the day. One of the most popular is the Chinatown Complex, where the environment is noisy and busy but it provides an interesting insight into the way of life, culture and way of being of the population. A meal in these food-courts can cost between 4 to 5 S$, with the meat and seafood dishes higher-priced.

One of Chinese specialties is the popiah, a very thin dough roll involving a mix of lettuce, soy sprouts, peanuts, cooked carrots and a spicy sauce. They are delicious, and a great vegetarian option for a snack.

Chinatown Complex. Popiah
Chinatown Complex. Popiah
Chinatown Complex. Popiah
Chinatown Complex. Popiah

Also in Chinatown, the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, there is a canteen in the basement where only vegetarian food is served, but according to Chinese recipes, where the meat is replaced by derivatives from vegetable origin that resemble meat in appearance and consistency. A ideal way to explore the rich Chinese cuisine for vegetarians. Each meal, which consists of a rice dish with two dishes cost 3 $S. Only open till 3 pm. The food is good, the atmosphere is calm and has charitable purposes.

Tooth Relic Temple
Tooth Relic Temple

In terms of drinks tea is very popular among the Chinese community, being seen for medicinal purposes; but it is the milk-tea that gained in popularity, which is tea with sweetened milk that can be served hot or with ice. A sweet and refreshing drink that goes well with the hot and humid climate of Singapore. Addictive.

The coffee is also very popular and can be found at sophisticated coffee shops, coping the western style with espresso, cappuccino, latte, etc… or alternatively you can taste the Singaporean coffee, kopi, a filtered coffee extremely dense and very strong in terms of caffeine, which is served in different ways:

  • Kopi: coffee with condensed milk, served hot
  • Kopi C: hot coffee served with milk and sugar
  • Kopi: with sugar
  • Kopi Kosong: without sugar and without milk
Kopi, Singaporean coffee, served with green tea cake
Kopi, Singaporean coffee, served with green tea cake

Where to eat in China Town:

  • Tooth Relic Temple: canteen with Chinese Vegetarian Food: 3 S$.

Address: 288 S Bridge Rd, Singapore 058840

Tooth Relic Temple. Schedule
Tooth Relic Temple. Schedule
  • Chinatown Complex: the fresh market in the basement, laundry on the ground floor and food on the first floor where the options are so many it’s hard to choose with different types of cuisines and specialty stalls in specific dishes; meals from 3 S$.
Chinatown Complex
Chinatown Complex. Maret, food market and food-court

Where to eat in Little India:

  • Komala Villas: Typical South Indian food at affordable prices; thali served in a banana leaf.

Address: 76 Serangoon Road, Singapore 217981

Komala Vila Restaurante. Little India
Komala Vila Restaurante. Little India
  • Famous Indian Curry Food Restaurant: serving delicious thali in banana leaf, in a informal and quiet restaurant in with vegetarian options. 6 S$

Address: 30/32 Upper Dickson Road, Singapore 207489

Famous Indian Curry Food Restaurant. Little India
Famous Indian Curry Food Restaurant. Little India

Where to eat in Kampong Glam (Arab Quarter):

  • Kampong Glam Cafe: good food with a wide variety of Malaysian dishes (lontong, laksa, nasi lemak, nasi goreng and many more), rotis and also with the self-service option where based on rice can compose the dish with various side dishes to choose from a big range of option, and where you can also find vegetarian Optimal location for a meal or just for a drink (no alcohol) and watching the local way of life. Meals from 3.5 S$.

Address: 17 Bussorah St, Singapore 199438

Kampong Glam Café
Kampong Glam Café
  • Singapore Zam Zam Restaurant: very popular for byriani (only meat) and the rotis

Address: 697-699 N Bridge Rd, Singapore 198675

Singapore Zam Zam Restaurant
Singapore Zam Zam Restaurant

Where to eat in Geyland:

  • Rice House (Wang Da Zhou): This casual restaurant confeciona the recipes of Chinese cuisine but using derived from vegetable products, mainly soybeans, which are similar in texture to the meat, and we can thus enjoy “hainanese chicken rice” without sacrificing animals ☺

Address: Blk 129 # 01-102 Geylang East Avenue 2, Singapore380129, Singapore

  • Rochor Beancurd House: here are produced and serve to soy-based products, for example soy-milk and beancurd (also called soybean pudding) a pudding made of very soft and smooth tofu that is served as a dessert or snack, washed down with sugarcane syrup, a typical product of Chinese cuisine. In addition, there is the “portuguese egg tart”!

Address: 745 Geyland Road (Lor 39), Singapore 389653

Rochor Beancurd House:soy-milk, beancurd e “portuguese egg tart”!
Rochor Beancurd House:soy-milk, beancurd e “portuguese egg tart”!

Singapore, is not just about shopping!

What stands out in a first walk through the wide, wide avenues of Singapore is a succession of shops and shopping centers, located in buildings of modern and audacious architecture that in common have the huge height, which are the symbol of this an island-country-state-city.

But a longer route shows the most attractive side of this place: the ethnic and cultural diversity, which brings together in harmonious coexistence Chinese, Malays and Indians to which are added many immigrants from neighboring Asian countries, which account almost 20% of the 5.4 millions of citizens. Singapore also attracts many Westerners who work in multinational companies that have here headquarters or delegations, as the “Lion City” (singa means lion in Sanskrit) is recognized as one of the sites that offer the best conditions for deployment, growth and success of a company.

The success story of this territory began with the British presence you saw here, in the eighteenth century ,a strategic location on the trade route between East and West, offering natural conditions for the location of a port, making this island passed from one village dedicated to fishing for an important trading post. After the Japanese invasion that ended with the end of World War II, Singapore became independent after a short time under the “flag” of “Federation of Malaysia” which included the Peninsular Malaysia, Sarawak and Sabah, on Borneo. The independence of Singapore, which in 2015 celebrates 50 years, was not on its own initiative, but resulted from intense ethnic conflicts, which have led the Federation to decide to “kick out” Singapore, preventing the spread of these conflicts to the remaining territory. In a small territory without many natural resources, where even the water is supplied by Malaysia, the government option was to create economic policies to attract foreign investment.

In a country so new and multicultural, where 74% of the population is ethnic Chinese, 13% Malaysian and 9% of Indian origin, is there a Singaporean identity?! Yes, there is, precisely from this ethnic and religious diversity, where tolerance is based on accelerated economic growth, where hundred of commercial surfaces bustling with consumers reflect the bet of this political system that governs Singapore, where economic success hides the restriction of certain freedoms, in a country where there is the death penalty and corporal punishment. However this repressive policy results in low crime and high safety, with citizens to give up some of their privacy and accepting the permanent surveillance of CCTV cameras that are a constant in the city, whether shops, coffee-hops, restaurants, markets, malls, hotels, metro, hostels, at the entrance of buildings, in streets, etc…

Singapore
Singapore

 

Singapore
Singapore

 

Singapore
Singapore

 

Chinatown. Singapore
Chinatown. Singapore

 

Singapore
Singapore

 

 

Singapore
Singapore

 

Singapore
Singapore

 

Singapore
Singapore

Although very modern, according to Western standards, where everything is planned and thought of forming a “perfect”, safe and predictable environment, it is impossible to hide that we are in Asia… the markets, the food, the smells, the bustling of urban life.

But the most attractive in this city-state is the cultural diversity, which is visible all over the place, but that becomes important in certain areas where greater concentration of a particular ethnic group; in the case of Chinatown, Little India and Arab Quarter, where you will feel immediately the differences, as if three or more generations have not been enough to erase the traditions, religions and customs, keeping each group bustling of a very strong identity, where the language is the best example. English is lingua-franca, but Mandarin, Malay and Tamil are also official languages, is common each individual speak two languages: English and corresponding to their own ethnic group.

Obviously these neighborhoods attract the population of these ethnic groups, both Singaporeans and immigrants, who find here their culture, temples, language, food, clothing, etc… And remarkably, arriving to Little India, after a quick subway ride where the vehicles move without driver, and we find the same rhythm, the same smells, the same tastes, the same products in grocery markets, the food served in the same metal plates, the same sahrees, the same lungis, the same ringing bells in temples… where everything takes us immediately to India.

Little India
Little India. Singapore

 

Little India
Little India. Singapore

 

Little India
Little India. Singapore

The so-called Arab Quarter (Kampong Glam), which in Arabic has essentially the carpet traders but where you also can find some restaurants of Turkish and Iranian food, is ideal place to enjoy traditional Malaysian dishes, which dominates the meat, but which is not served pork according to Muslim tradition, an area where shines the Golden rood of Majid Sultan mosque. Curiously nearby this area, in the sophisticated and hipster Bugis are located a popular bar zone, along Haji Lane.

Kampong Glam. Singapore.
Kampong Glam. Singapore.

 

Kampong Glam. Singapore.
Kampong Glam. Singapore

 

Kampong Glam. Singapore
Kampong Glam. Singapore

 

Kampong Glam. Singapore.
Kampong Glam. Singapore

In Chinatown, buzzing activity around the food, either in restaurants or in food-courts, which are the most economical option and the one that attracts most of the local population, creating a buzz that is not only limited to dining hours, a concept that Asia is quite extensive. The streets of Chinatown arise organized and perfectly clean teashops, pharmacies of Traditional Chinese Medicine products and shops selling bird-nest (nests with saliva swallows or other bird) that are one of the specialties of Chinese cuisine, also with medicinal effects, constituting one of the most expensive foods in the world.

In Chinatown, along South Bridge Road, in just over 500 meters is the Jamae Majid mosque, Hindu temple Sri Mariamman and the Buddhist temple Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. This last one appears more grandiose than the others, with a stately temple with hundreds of Buddha images, which dominates the ground floor of the building, which also houses a museum, a canteen, the room where the relic is kept and a garden located on the terrace, which is a small paradise. Daily at different times of the day, the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, monks chant hypnotic songs that fill the space of a mystical atmosphere that gives an even brighter glow to the rich decoration of the temple.

Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple
Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

 

Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple
Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

 

Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple
Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

 

Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple
Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

 

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Chinatown. Sin gapore
Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Chinatown. Sin
gapore

But the place that makes us forget for a moment that we’re in Singapore, is located next to Chinatown Visitor Center, behind the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, where daily gather men that spend here most of the day playing cards and chess, chatting, reading the newspaper or simply sleeping. On Sundays the plaza nearby becomes a dance floor, with music provided by loudspeakers that attracts several generations of men and women who gather here to perform elaborate choreographies.

Chinatown
Chinatown
Chinatown
Chinatown

 

Chinatown
Chinatown

 

Chinatown
Chinatown

Wafles Place, is the financial center of Singapore, which accounts for the largest buildings in the city, creating the famous sky-line dominate by skyscraper that is the image of Singapore and successful economic policy, in a country that the World Bank considers the “Easiest place to do business.” The dark streets of Wafles Place whose buildings hide the sun’s rays, circulate men in white shirt and gray business suits, a sober bustle.

Wrafles Place. Singapore
Wrafles Place. Singapore

 

Wrafles Place. Singapore
Wrafles Place. Singapore

 

Wrafles Place. Singapore
Wrafles Place. Singapore

Despite dominating buildings, boulevards and highways the city has plenty of green areas, where trees are quite common along the streets, adding some areas reserved for natural parks, furthest from the center, which retain some wildlife. The Botanic Gardens, millimeter organized with the thoroughly identified plant specimens are worth a visit and serve as a nice walk. The tropical climate of Singapore creates optimal conditions for vegetation with temperatures close to 30°C and humidity above 80%, with constant climate throughout the year, and frequent storms that bring rain and further increase the humidity.

Botanical Gardens
Botanical Gardens

Next to the Marina Bay, behind the iconic set of buildings Marina Bay Hotel, is another great green spot but a more artificial and entertainment approach, with the SuperTree Grove, a set of metal structures shaped trees, covered by vegetation that are lit in the evening earning fantastic colors.

Gardens by the Bay. Supertree Grove
Gardens by the Bay. Supertree Grove

 

Gardens by the Bay. Supertree Grove
Gardens by the Bay. Supertree Grove

 

Bayfront. Singapore
Bayfront. Singapore

 

Esplanade Theatres. Singapore
Esplanade Theatres. Singapore

 

Bayfront. Singapore
Bayfront. Singapore

Apart from the skyscraper, there are many niches where the old town, dominated by shophouses (buildings with ground floor for trade and housing above) typical Chinese influence, remain impeccably preserved, housing various commercial activities, highlighting shops and restaurants, which with its 5 foot inn (sidewalks under the arches formed by the first floor of shophouses) are the most attractive areas for walking around the city, but that invariably culminate in wide and rectilinear avenues where organized traffic flows quietly .

Shophouses. Singapore
Shophouses. Singapore

 

Shophouses. Singapore
Shophouses. Singapore

 

Shophouses. Singapore
Shophouses. Singapore

 

Shophouses. Singapore
Shophouses. Singapore

Singapore a city-state, technologically modern, planned and organized, where coexist harmoniously different cultures, ethnicities and religions, where everything is controlled by CCTV, where the wi-fi is available for free in almost all locations, where for eating in the subway you can get a fine, which the ever present air-conditioning almost makes one forget the tropical climate, where succeeded economy relies on migrant labor and where the wealthy population keeps entertained shopping.

 

Free activities in Singapore:

In an expensive city and where almost all the entertainment and tourist sites is charged entrance, you can find in Singapore free activities:

  • SuperTree Grove, and part of the Garden By the Bay
  • Botanical Gardens
  • Concert at the Esplanade Theaters
  • Lion Dance Performace (Pagoda St)
  • Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

Accommodation:

The accommodation in Singapore, a city struggling for lack of space, represents the largest share of the budget, so the hostels, offering dorms with 4 or more beds are the most popular and economical option.

And it’s not hard to find hostels in Kampong Glam, Little India or Chinatown, but where the price per night is never less than 20S$.

5 foot way inn … a concept made of small rooms, almost all with bunk beds, air-conditioning, en-suite shared, breakfast included (bread, cereal, milk, margarine, sweet and fruit); a machine serving coffee, tea, cappuccino, chocolate milk, etc… is available all day.

These hostels share the same concept, minimum dimensions of rooms, most without windows, lined up in narrow corridors forming a labyrinth, occupying old shophouses; intended primarily for short term stays, for who spends most of his time touring in the city, but also being used for those who come here on business.

5 foot way inn is located in various parts of the city with different standards in terms of quality and comfort, and with different prices. Prices vary from day to day, with higher values ​​at the weekend or when occupancy is higher. Reservations can not be made at reception and to use the web-site or send an email to the reservation center.

The choice went to Chinatown 2 and the Bugis situated next to Kampong Glam. Prices per night range between 20 S$ and 30 S$ for a 4 bed dorm.

 

5footway.inn Project Bugis

Address: 10 Aliwal Street, Bugis, Singapore 199903

5footway.inn Project Chinatown 2

Address: 227 South Bridge Rd, Singapore 058776

http://www.5footwayinn.com/

 

5footway.inn Project Bugis
5footway.inn Project Bugis

 

5footway.inn Project Chinatown 2
5footway.inn Project Chinatown 2

 

5footway.inn Project Chinatown 2
5footway.inn Project Chinatown 2

 

5footway.inn Project Bugis
5footway.inn Project Bugis

 

5footway.inn Project Bugis
5footway.inn Project Bugis

 

5footway.inn Project Bugis. Contacts
5footway.inn Project Bugis. Contacts

 

5footway.inn Project Chinatown 2. Contacts
5footway.inn Project Chinatown 2. Contacts

Transportation:

The best way to move around in Singapore is the MRT, the underground, covering efficiently the city, with regular services. Comfortable, quick and easy orientation.

In tickets can be brought in machines of stations halls and with the first trip you get a card by additional charge of 0.10 S$, that can be reused a maximum up to 6 travel and the amount paid for the card is refunded at the end of the third recharge. One can purchase round-trip ticket, that if not totally used you can ask for refund at ticket counters.

The cost of travel is proportional to the distance with a minimum of 1.4 S$ (Singaporean Dollar).

Buses are also modern and comfortable and allow you to see the city while moving.

Singapore. MRT.
Singapore. MRT.

 

Mrt. singapore
Mrt. singapore

Bako National Park

Bako is Malaysia’s oldest National Park, established in 1957 and takes its name from the muddy river nearby which flows into the waters of the South China Sea.

Even before arriving at the park, the route taken by the river provides a memorable landscape with the soft morning light shining on the almost still waters of the river Bako, which forms a mirror that merges with the sky and where the skyline fades in presence of a thin layer of mist that emanates from the hot waters of the river.

There are several possible paths to be covered in a day trip, and others that require more time to dwell at least one night in the park. During this visit* the western part of the park was closed to visitors, but the one third that is open offer many options, with 10 possible tracks.

The choice was to Litang Trail with 5.8 kilometers and that it was done in about three hours that left time to do part of the trail to Telok Paku, which despite its simple ones 800 meters has more obstacles and takes a long time.

The Litang Trail is what goes over the forest, with diverse landscapes, from dense and humid jungle, until hot and dry rocky plateaus. As November is already time of much rain the track was soaked in water, but not muddy, as soil is predominantly sandy. Towards the end of the course,

The Telok Paku is offering more chances to observe wildlife especially Proboscis monkey, but given the number of visitors, some quite noisy, the chances of observing animals is reduced, beyond ants and small insects.

Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

But what truly marked this visit was the route at Litang Trail, where during about three hours, I could walk through the wilderness without finding other visitors and can thus enjoy a more intense contact with nature, in which the mind focused on the walk, on foot movement and on rhythm of the breath, gets empty of thoughts.

In total isolation the jungle noises bring the fears and ghosts that we try to hide with the frantic pace of life, making the forest show us his danger and spooky side. But accepting the power of nature we are conducted and cherished by the energy and power that emanates from these trees, making us feel part of this magic that we call Nature. Mother Nature.

This was the most interesting and impressive experience in natural parks, leaving an intense memory of those hours spent in close contact with the jungle. A bless provided but the deep forces of the jungle.

* November 2015

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Accommodation:

The Baku National Park is located near Kuching so it can be visited on a day-trip. However it is possible to stay in the accommodations near the park headquarters. It should be reserved.

Where to eat:

At the entrance of the park near the headquarters there is a cafeteria. However for a day-trip just take some fruit and water. Water is fundamental and 1.5 liters per person, is not too much.

Equipment and guidance:

The tracks are fairly easy and affordable, with the hardest part being the first 500 meters that are common to all the tracks, with some steepness overtake by stairs and by paths between tree, roots and rocks.

All trails are well marked with the respective color, painted on rocks and trees shillings, being almost impossible to get lost. The Litang Trail has marks 100 at 100 meters with the distance made, which not only facilitates orientation as also the determination of the effort and the pace of the hike. The final part of the trail, on arrival at headquarters is done on flat wooden platforms.

The Telok Paku Trail doesn’t have these milestones, but is very well defined, with parts of the route on wooden platforms and stairs that facilitate the passage in the steepest areas.

In terms of equipment it isn’t necessary anything special, not even hiking boots. A sneakers, running shoes or sandals works perfectly in this kind of trails. Some parts of the trails have some water that you can’t avoid.

The heat and humidity make you sweat profusely, so all clothing quickly get soaked.

Must bring mosquito repellent as they are a fierce presence in more wetlands route.

Plenty of water to drink.

It is not necessary a guide.

Bako National Park. Map
Bako National Park. Map

How to get from Kuching to Bako National Park:

The bus to Bako Park passes in Jalan Market by the Chinese History Museum, but in this place there is no indication or houses to indicate that buses stop here; a little further on, at Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman in front of the building Riverside Shopping Center there is another stop.

The bus passes at about 7:00 am and the trip takes about an hour.

Bus Ticket: 3.5 RM

The terminal bus route in Bako Bazaar, a small cluster of houses where the reception Bako Park. Here you buy the ticket for the park as well as the ticket for the boat that transports visitors to the official entry of parquet where are the headquartes. The boat is the only way to get to the park and part of a small pier near the reception of the park.

Park fee: 20 RM

Boat: RM 20 one way; the return ticket has to be purchased in headquartes the park and should be purchased in advance for the boats that leave in the afternoon are quickly filled; the last boat is at 16.00).

The boat trip takes about 10 minutes.

If the tide is low the boat does not reach the small pier, taking passengers to disembark on the beach. The same is true in return.

By the headquartes is provided map and all information on the various tracks, including degree of difficulty, duration and length of the course.

In the end it is necessary to book the boat for the return, and pay the ticket next to headquartes.

Buses leave from Bako Bazaar to Kuching every hour, and the last is at 18:00 hours.

Bus Stop in Kuching to Bako National Park in front of Riverside Shopping Center
Bus Stop in Kuching to Bako National Park in front of Riverside Shopping Center

 

Bako Terminal
Bako Terminal

 

Bako National Park. Boat Ticket
Bako National Park. Boat Ticket

Please note: the climate is hot and extremely humid and not always the rails have plenty throughout the length of the course, which causes profuse sweating and fluid loss, so drinking water is extremely important.

Kuching… capital of Sarawak

The southern state of Malaysian Borneo’s Sarawak, being known by the cultural presence of the largest ethnic group in Sarawak, the Iban, famous for their longhouses, a sort of common home to several families and center of all the activity of a community, but currently they serve almost exclusively for tourism purposes.

But the city of Kuching pleasantly situated along the river, is a point of confluence of various cultures, with a strong British colonial presence visible in some buildings that are landmarks in the city for its whiteness and imposing architecture, and also by the religion where Christianity has a strong presence in contrast to the rest of the country were dominates Muslim religion. Along the Main Bazar align the shophouses, made for commercial proposes, but with the first floor reserved for housing, typical from the Chinese community that lives here for generations maintaining a very present culture. Not far is Little India (Jalang India), where along a street are concentrated shops, selling Indian products, grocery, clothing and textiles. In between some shops selling shirts and fabrics with traditional patterns of Indonesia.

But along the Main Bazaar many shops selling the crafts of the Iban culture, particularly woodcarving, baskets and weaving fabrics made with the typical geometric patterns of this ethnic group whose culture is being rapidly replaced by Malay culture.

Kuching means “cat” and everywhere there are references to these animals, either sculptures or street-art… but there are many cats in the neighborhood…

Kuching
Kuching

 

Kuching_DSC_4805
Governors house. Kuching

 

Kuching
Kuching

 

Kuching
Kuching

 

Kuching
Kuching

 

Kuching
Kuching

 

Kuching
Kuching

 

Kuching
Kuching

 

Kuching
Kuching

 

Chinese Temple. Kuching
Chinese Temple. Kuching

 

Iban Indigenous art. Kuching
Iban Indigenous art. Kuching

Sarawak and to sarawakians

The third largest island in the world is divided by three countries: Malaysia, Indonesia (which owns 73% of the territory) and Brunei (with 1% of the territory).

The long history of this territory what is now Malaysia, include Portuguese, Dutch, and English; with II World War came the Japanese troops and only in 1963 Malaysia became independent, grouping the Malaysia, Sarawak and Sabah, as also including Singapore, which two years later was excluded from this territory became independent.

During the British presence, particularly in the first half of the twentieth century it was strongly encouraged the arrival of immigrants from China and India, which soon doubled the population in the territory.

Currently 30 million people in Malaysia, 50% are Malays, 23% are Chinese, 12% indigenous, 7% Indian and the remaining 8% are resident but do not hold citizenship is common the presence of Indonesian immigrants.

Despite the apparent harmony and tolerance that exists between different ethnic groups, and even the country consider as the official religion Islam also accepts the practice of other believes, in reality there is a discrimination between Malay who hold power and the most important positions in administration of the country, and the other ethnic groups.

In Borneo, particularly in Sarawak, is evident a desire for autonomy or independence from Malaysia because the different indigenous population, all grouped under the name of Dayaks, do not consider themselves recognized as full citizens in relation to the largest ethnic group the Malays.

The Iban are the largest indigenous group in the region of Sarawak and struggle to maintain their culture, but currently few speak the native language that is not taught in schools, leaving the indigenous culture practically reserved for festivals and some handicrafts. With the British presence also animist practices that dominated the spirituality of these people has been replaced by Christianity. Very quickly this indigenous culture will be erased by the dominant Malay culture and the fast economic growth that the Malaysia governments are imposing in the country, based on the dilapidation of natural resources, affecting irremediably the jungle, the oldest rain forest in the world.

Malaysia flag on the left and Sarawak flag on the right
Malaysia flag on the left and Sarawak flag on the right

 

Kuching
Kuching

Accommodation:

Kuching offers a wide range in terms of accommodation and good options for backpackers, where it is not hard to find hostel with dormitories.

The choice was to Kuching a capital de Sarawak:

First floor, 3 Jalan Green Hill T082 / 237062

www.borneobnb.com

A double with en-suite: RM 65 (breakfast included, free wi-fi). Nice and friendly staff.

Laundry: one bag 10 RM, and ready in the same day.

Nomad Backpackers. Kuching
Nomad Backpackers. Kuching

 

Nomad Backpackers. Contacts. Kuching
Nomad Backpackers. Contacts. Kuching

 

Nomad Backpackers. Breakfast. Kuching
Nomad Backpackers. Breakfast. Kuching

 

Where to eat:

The center of activity in terms of restaurants is Chinatown (Jalang Carpenter) as also Jalang Padungan, situated further to the east.

But for more economic options is the restaurant situated along the Waterfront in the historic center of Kuching, a stretch of gardens along the river were the population gather and walk in the evenings. Here in the middle of some kiosks, stands one serving local food, made up by two nice Muslim girls: the Meeting Point. Opposite are some tables where you can enjoy the simple meal and nearby another kiosk sells drinks… ice-tea, ice-coffee, etc… The food is simple and good, based on rice or noodles but with vegetarian option; prices of around 5 MR.

Meeting Point Restaurant. Waterfronty Kuching
Meeting Point Restaurant. Waterfronty Kuching

Transport:

The town can be covered on foot, with the very compact historical center is developing around the Courthouse Building and Waterfront. Here you can easily reach up to Chinatown and Little India, the Sarawak Museum and the main mosques.

To visit Baku National Park or Nature Reserve is required Semmenggoh uses public transport. (see next posts)

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I’m Catarina, a wanderer from Lisbon, Portugal… or a backpack traveller with a camera!

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