• Skip to main content
  • Skip to footer

Stepping Out Of Babylon

Travel & Photography

  • About me
    • Contact
  • Destinations
    • Africa and Middle East
      • Iran
      • Lebanon
      • Morocco
      • Turkey
    • East Asia
      • China
      • Japan
      • Taiwan (Formosa)
    • South Asia
      • Bangladesh
      • India
      • Nepal
      • Sri Lanka
    • Southeast Asia
      • Cambodia
      • Indonesia
      • Lao
      • Malaysia
      • Myanmar
      • Singapore
      • Thailand
      • Vietnam
  • Itineraries
  • Travel tips
    • Border crossing
    • Hiking and Natural parks
    • Food Journey
    • Visa
  • Photography

Food

Laos food… a bit more than noodles soup

With many similarities with the cuisine of Thailand and some influences of China and Vietnam, the traditional Lao food is a modest sample of the neighbouring countries cuisine. Stand out the noodles and soups, but the grilled are also very popular, but despite the meat is a constant presence, the consumption of fish is not unusual, given the proximity to the Mekong and other rivers that cross the country.

For vegetarians, the options are very slim, not much more than noodles soup, which even if you order without meat, the broths are usually made with chicken or pork and probably you’ll notice the flavour of meat, that can be disguised with the spicy sauces and seasonings alway available.

The noodle soup was a constant presence in my diet during my stay in Laos, where I ate noodles soup at least once a day, often as breakfast.

Both in cities as small villages there are always restaurants that serve only serve noodle soup, changing the quality of the broth and the kind of meat served, but especially the type of noodles that can range from very thin and almost transparent to thicker and consistent strips, but always made from rice flour.

The soup is served with a plate full of raw vegetables such as cabbage, lettuce, green beans, leeks, spring onions, mint, spinach and other vegetables popular in Asian markets but absent from western cuisine. The soups aren’t spicy at all, but sauces like fish, soy, oyster, etc… but chilly can be added in powder, as fresh chilies or as an oily paste, which is often generously laid on the soup and can transform a clear broth in a red soup. Limes in slices are always available on the tables of restaurants, which give a twist of freshness to these soups.

To eat this soup in Laos style, you must use bamboo chopsticks to eat the noodles and other solid ingredients, while the spoon in the left hand is used to eat the broth.

As an alternative to the noodle soup, is also possible to find rice soup, a broth made with overcooked rice which are added a bit of spring onions, soy sprouts and small pieces of meat. This option can only be found in the morning as it just eaten as breakfast with a glass of green tea.

Very popular is the lap, a dish that can be with meat or fish, usually very spicy, prepared with lots of mint leaves and chilies, which is generally eaten with hands with the help of stick-rice, a very glutinous type of rice, dominant in Laos.

A melhor sopa de noodles do Laos, experimentada logo no segundo dia de estadia, na povoação fronteiriça de Huay Xai, com o requinte de servir um pequeno prato de pasta de amendoim onde tradicionalmente são mergulhadas as malaguetas ants e serem comidas
The best noodles soup in Laos, ate in the first day, just after crossing the border at Huay Xai, with lots of vegetables peanut sauce and tea

Stiky-rice, servido como é tradicional em potes de bambo
Sticky rice, in the traditional bambu pots

Sticky-rice a acompanhar um prato de vegetais salteados... uma alternativa vegetariana à tradicinal carne grelhada que acompanha este tipo de arroz
Sticky-rice with stir fry vegetables… but usually this kind of rice is served with meat

restaurante em Luang Prabang que somente serve sopa de noodles, aberto desde manhã bem cedo mas que encerra pouco depois da 1 hora da tarde
street restaurant in Luang Prabang that only have noodles, open since early morning, but close around 1 pm; very popular between local people, serving a good food for a very cheap price, in a casual environment

ingredientes para a preparação da sopa de noodles, que para além dos vegetais custuma ter pedaços de carne, por vezes sangue cozido ou visceras, que são também usadas na confecção do caldo
tray with the ingredients for the noodles soup that apart from a wide range of vegetables, also have meat, intestines and cooked blood

ingredientes para a preparação da sopa de noodles
Ingredients for noodles soup

Besides the noodle soup, you can find easily fried rice and fried noodles. Curries are also part of Laos gastronomy but simple and less sophisticated versions of the ones served in Thailand.

Is visible a greater diversity in the food served in the North of the country, a more wet and fertile area, compared to southern regions, where the climate is dryer and supply are more limited, except the rice that dominates the landscape in the south flat areas.

About sweets, there is little to say because the desserts are not part of the menu of typical restaurants in Laos, being very rare to find some pastry out of the tourist areas. However, as also in Thailand, the rotis are very popular, and can be found in street stalls, that show up after the sun set along the city street. The rotis are a kind of pancake, made from a very thin dough, stuffed with banana, chocolate or egg, fried bit a bit of oil, and drizzled with condensed milk in the end, for extra sweetness.

This roti business is very popular and dominated almost exclusively by Indians, many from Chennai, as this area the roti, in a plain style, are usually eaten with the meal. This Indian community provides also restaurants where is possible to find the traditional Indian dishes for those already tired of some monotony of Lao cuisine.

banca de rua em Vientianne que serve dsde manhã bem cedo sopa de arroz e sopa de noodles, assim como o tradicional café
Street stall in Vientianne that since early morning serve rice and noodles soup, as also the traditional Lao coffee, being a very popular place between local people

molhos e picantes que são adicionados à comida, juntamente com sal, e açucar: uma presença constante em todas as mesas dos restaurantes tradicionais do Laos
A big range of condiments and sauces are available in the restaurants tables, as also sugar, that is manny times added to the food

Muitos do condimentos usados na cozinha do Laos são de origem Tailandesa ou, como é o caso, Chineza
Most of the ingredients used in Lao cuisine come from Thailand and China, making it hard to understand what we have on the table to seasoning the food

The so-called Lao Coffee is a constant presence throughout the country, usually served in the morning on the street stalls. But it can also be found in the more sophisticated cafes in touristic and cosmopolitan areas of Luang Prabang and Vientiane, side by side with French bakery.

The Lao coffee is prepared in a very characteristic way: there’s a metal pot, which always keeps in the heat with boiling water, from where the water is removed with a ladle and poured into a jug, passing through a conical filter cloth, containing the coffee powder. From the jug it’s poured into small glasses, passing again through the coffee filter, to make ti stronger. In the end is usually added condensed milk, or sugar with milk powdered. The coffee that remains in the filter is used more than once, serving to prepare several coffees. It can also be drunk plain without dairy or sweeteners, and this is the best way to appreciate the dense and thick texture of this coffee that have an unexpectedly soft taste and somewhat light bitter flavor.

The price of a Lao Coffee is from 4,000 to 5,000 kips, and is often served accompanied by a kind of bread made in the of fried dough, and sometimes is also serve with a glass of tea… yes, the tea is served even with the coffee and is offered for free.

The French presence is visible in the bread, especially the baguettes, which are sold on the streets and bus terminals, consume as a meal or as a snack between meals, stuffed with not-identify paste, spicy sauces, meat (usually pork or processed meat) and vegetables. They are a popular option for a meal in the long and endless bus trips, due to be easy to take away and to the low price around 7,000 10,000 kips, less than 1 euro.

In tourist areas, it is possible to find restaurants with a wide range of Western food, but with much higher prices than traditional food found in the simple and modest restaurants frequented by locals, where you can have a meal for 10,000 kip, about 1 €.

Lao-coffee
Lao-coffee

In terms of snacks the Lao coisine doesn’t offer many choice, being basically rice cakes, that can be sweet or salted. The sweat ones are made from puff rice, and the salted version is made with cooked rice, mix with egg that is grill with the shape of a small pancake.

noodles frescos vendidos nos mercados espalhados por todo o Laos, e que marcam a diferença entre as várias sopas vendidas em restaurnates, muitas das vezes contiguos uns aos outros
fresh noodles, that can be found all over the country, being sold in markets and also made in the restaurants. the quality of the noodles make the difference in the soups, making on place more popular than the one next door

snack muito popular no norte do país, feito á base de arroz cozido que depois de espalmado é mergulhando em ovo batido e grelhado no carvão
snack made with rice and egg.

Sri Lankan food… a spicy experience

The Sri Lankan food is without any doubt strongly marked by the spices, the coconut and especially the chilly… yes, the traditional food is really spicy and not advisable for weak stomachs, but is not at all in excessive, as it doesn’t overlap the flavour of the other ingredients!

Having a strong South Indian influence, the Sri Lanka food is vegetarian friendly, with rice and vegetables curries being the base of the dish and with the meat and fish appearing as an easily avoidable complement.

The ease of communicating in English also helps to order a vegetable variant of the dishes on the menu, which are usually prepared in the moment.

In terms of the spices, the most common are the cumin, coriander, cloves, cardamom, ginger and turmeric. Also, present in many dishes are the curry leaves as also the cinnamon, which in Sri Lanka has a less sweet taste than the usual. Coriander is used in powder or fresh seeds. Cumin is also very popular, and easy to identify the seeds in curries, which are fried together with garlic. The onion is often used raw in the preparation as a side dish of curries, as sambol, a mixture of raw ingredients, made from coconut (pol sambol) or green leaf vegetables (sambol gotukola)… but always spicy.

The rice is the pillar of Sri Lankan cousine. It can be just steamed and serve with aromatic and delicious curries or as an ingredient in the preparation of string hoppers (idyyappam), a kind of noodles made from rice flour, eaten as a meal, with curries and dahl; these string hoppers also have a sweet version, being stuffed with grated coconut and sugar, called lavariya… both can be found at breakfast time!

Rice is also present in another icon of Sri Lankan cuisine, the hoppers: a pancake, thick in the center and crispy on the edges, made from rice flour and coconut milk, which serves as a snack or as a meal, accompanied by curries or spicy sauces. With similar ingredients are make the coconut hoppers, but being cooked steamed, are soft and smooth; less popular than the hoppers but much tastier and sweet version.

String hoppers (idyyappam), servidos muitas vezes como pequeno-almoço
String hoppers made from rice flour and served often as breakfast… these were made with rice flour that gives them the brownish tone
hoppers
Hoppers whose dough is cooked in small pans over high heat until the thin edges become crisp and the thicker center is fluffy and soft
Coconut Hoppers... uma versão adocicada para pequeno-almoço
Coconut Hoppers… a sweet version for breakfast

The Sri Lanka dishes use a wide range of vegetable, and despite being a predominantly Buddhist country, is usual the consumption of meat, normally chicken, but also fish, especially at coast areas. But it is extremely easy to find vegetarian food, both at meals or snacks. In Muslim areas is evident the highest consumption of meat curries (usually chicken), while in regions with a greater Tamil presence, is easier to find vegetarian food.

Snacks and Street Food

Talking about snacks… Sri Lanka was a pleasant surprise: the variety, the taste, and easy to find, as they are cooked and sold bit everywhere. These delicious snacks are eaten for breakfast or at any time of the day, that they serve as a light meal. Are sold at a bakery, at roti shops, restaurants, street stalls… on trains, on buses… by street hawkers…

The names are many… ulundhu vadai, parippu vada , samosas, pol roti, coconut roti, patties, rolls, cutlets, roti… but all have in common the fact that are deep fried, spicy and usually vegetarian.

In terms of street food the easiest to find are the ulundhu vadai a fried dough pastry, ring-shaped, seasoned with spices, which is sometimes open in half and stuffed with a red and spicy paste. Also very popular are the parippu vada, small patties made from a paste of lentils, which are deep-fried, resulting in a crispy and spicy snack.

Both quite oily, but very tasty, often sold on trains and buses… but also easy to find on street stalls, usually at the busiest areas the city, such as markets, bus terminals and train stations. Made early in the morning or in the end of the afternoon, are kept at windows shop, which is a way to announce that a new fresh lot.

em cima "paties" recheados de vegetais em forma de meia-lua e "ulundhu vadai", massa frita em forma de anel. em baixo "parippu vada" um pastel frito feito de lentilhas, picante e estaladiço
on top”patties” stuffed with vegetables in a half-moon and “ulundhu vadai” fried dough ring-shaped. below “parippu vada” a fried pastry made of lentils, spicy and crispy

To these ones, can be added the patties, a pastel with a half-moon shape, with thick and soft dough, that are stuffed with lentils or mixed vegetable, and fried in oil. With a similar filling, but with a different dough and cooked in the oven, but not so common as other snacks, the samosas are usually sold in bakeries. In Sri Lanka the so called “bakeries” are shops like cafes but intended primarily for the sale of savory snacks as well as some sweets, juices and ice cream… but they are also a place to enjoy a tea or a coffee.

There is further a great variety of snacks, often deep-fried as rolls and cutlets, usually fish or meat, but sometimes made with vegetable filling, with a cylinder or ball shape. Whatever is the filling option, the result is always a blow of spicy.

But undoubtedly the most popular, in whatever part of the country, either in big cities or small towns, beach or mountains… is the roti, made the at “roti shops” that also serve kottu. The rotis are made with very thin dough; the same used for the parathas, and filled with a vegetable paste, strongly spicy. The dough is folded in a triangle shape, slightly flattened, and fried in a metal plate. If they are filled with fish have a cylinder shape, and if the meat is in the form of a rectangle.

roti com a forma de triangulo indicando que têm rechio de vegetais
“Roti” shaped triangle to indicate vegetable filling
Vadai e pol roti
“Pol roti”, a savory rice flour pancake with grated coconut, which is accompanied by a spicy red paste. In the middle are the “ulundhu vadai,” a fried dough pastry, flavoured with spices
vendedor ambulante de snacks nas ruas de Galle Fort
hawker snacks at Galle Fort streets
snacks à venda em Gelle Front, que depois do pôr do sol e local popular para passear em Colombo, e saborear alguns snacks
snacks for sale in Galle Front, which after the sunset is a popular place to relax in Colombo, enjoying some snacks and the fresh sea breeze
Roti and hoppers shop
“Roti shop” which also serves hoppers

Rice and curry

But if the snacks created a good impression of the tasty and diverse Sri Lankan cuisine, rice and curry, was remarkable, being the mandatory meal of the 30 days spent in Sri Lanka. Usually is eaten at lunch, but sometimes also as the first morning meal, the Sri Lankan rice and curry is a balanced meal, healthy and energetic, leaving the stomach satisfied for many hours. For all this is the most popular meal in Sri Lanka, being cheap and easy to find all over the place.

Even though consumed daily the rice and curry (so called also in Sri Lanka) never tired or becomes dull, it is amazing the variety of ingredients used, which results in a wide variety of curries.

The base is always rice, usually wit a thick lentils curry spiced with curry leaves and dry-fried chilies; the curries use a wide range of ingredients like pumpkin, courgette, jackfuit, bananas, potatoes, beets, green beans, okra, eggplant, many green leaf vegetables, some fruits… to add to many other unidentified or unknown ingredients. Adding to this dish, that always has a vegetarian base, can still be joined fish or meat curries.

The jackfruit, a giant tropical fruit, usually consumed fresh is in Sri Lanka mainly used in curries, in their different states of maturation, from “green” to ripen; and it’s not only the pulp that is used also the seeds, that look and have a similar texture of the beans. The jackfruit, despite not having a very intense flavour, has a soft texture leaving the food with a sticky appearance resulting from natural gum… a bit like okra.

Rice and Curry.... no primeiro plano o gotukola sambol, à esquerda o dahl, à direita um caril de beterraba, e ao fundo um caril de jackfruit
Rice and Curry… in the foreground the “gotukola sambol,” left the “dahl” right a beet curry, and the background the “jackfruit” curry
Homemade Rice and Curry... arroz, batata, frango e abóbora
Homemade Rice and Curry… rice, potatoes, chicken and pumpkin, all cooked with coconut oil
Rice and Curry. Sri Lanka
Rice and Curry… where it is made available rice and various curries to “refill” the dish

Despite the curries diversity, the base is always rice, served in a generous amount and may be white grain or locally called “red”, a variety of traditional rice Sri Lanka, that where the grain after cooking seems to bring a thin layer of reddish or brownish tone. Tastier but less common than white rice

Almost always the rice and curry dish is garnish with papadum, a thin and crisp wafer which is fried in oil, but always served in a small amount.

Rice and Curry. Sri Lanka
Rice and Curry … “red rice” in the center, below dahl, on the left curry pumpkin and “gotukola sambol”, and green beans on top, and at right “sambol pol”
Rice and Curry Traditional Buffet. Sri Lanka
Rice and Curry served in a traditional way, with various curries and condiments, placed in clay pots, where each person is served in “buffet” style
Rice and Curry. Sri Lanka
Rice and Curry, with “jackfruit” curry on the right side, and “papadum” on top
Rice and Curry. Sri Lanka
Rice and Curry served in a traditional way in lotus leaf

The combinations of curries are numerous and varied, generally with two or three or four varieties, resulting in a colorful and appealing plate. Attractive is also the price, because you can find a vegetarian rice and curry for 80 LKR (0.50 €) in small villages, and in the cities, it cost between 100 and 150 LKR, if you choose one of the most simple and casual places. In tourist areas the rates rise to 200 LKR minimum, but in some restaurants can cost more than 400 LKR. The meat or fish options are always somewhat more expensive.

The rice and curry is served on a plate, but always with the right to “refill” if you’re not a sophisticated restaurant or in very touristy areas.

In some places, either in small street stalls, the door of a cafe, a kiosk of a bus terminal and at more modest restaurants is possible to find the rice and curry for takeaway, that in Sri Lanka called “parcel”, in which the food is wrapped in plastic and then wrapped and newspaper. This system is quite popular among the local population, but impractical if you’re traveling, as cutlery isn’t provided, because in Sri Lanka is tradition and custom to eat with the hand (right) and the cutlery is provided only in restaurants, usually just a spoon.

Rice and Curry. Sri Lanka
Rice and Curry… with Dahl, “papadum” and a mixture of seeds of “jackfruit”, which resemble beans are cooked with spices and coconut resulting in an original curry
Rice and Curry. Sri Lanka
Rice and Curry, with “pol sambal” on the right side of the plate; on the left a mixture of green leaf vegetables with fresh coconut, fresh and spicy at the same time.
Rice and Curry. Sri Lanka
Rice and Curry …. with “red rice”, dahl on the left, “jackfruit” curry on the right side, and at the bottom “gotukola sambol”, a mixture of a green leafy vegetable with coconut and onion, all raw, that creates an interesting and fresh taste

It can be considered that the rice and curry is the national dish of Sri Lanka, beyond all ethnic groups, castes and religions.

Roti and kottu

Although rice and curry is considered the national dish of Sri Lanka, the rotis and kottus are strong competitors in this title. They are cheap, easy to find all over the place, easy to takeaway, with a wide variety and are mouthwatering.

The rotis are more frequent as a snack in the morning, as breakfast, or during the day between meals. But they can also be eaten as lunch accompanied by other snacks available in the restaurant, that brought to the table in a tray with others snacks, with the customer to make the selection and pay only those who consumed.

The rotis are made with the same dough of lachha paratha, a very thin flat bread, unleavened, which is extended with the help of quite some oil to almost tear. After rolled are flattened and fried on a metal plate until golden and slightly crisp… works like a bread that accompanies meals being a clear influence of Tamil culture from South India (not to be confused with the parathas northern India).

roti, pasteis de massa fina que são fritos sobre uma chapa metálica
“roti”, thin dough pastries, stuffed, which are fried on a metal plate until get crispy

The kottus, cooked in so-called “roti shops” are the most popular option for dinner outside. The kottus are based on a pancake made from wheat flour, similar to parathas which is fried in a metal plate, and then cut into small pieces and mixed with vegetables, eggs or meat. It results in a consistent meal but little nutritious as vegetables (onions, carrots, tomatoes, peas, spring onions…) are in small quantities, resulting in a lot of wheat and some oil. But the preparation of kottu always deserves attention because it involves a small show provided by the cook, that with two metal spatulas, cutting and mixing the ingredients with dough over the hot metal surface, a task performed with elaborate and spectacular moves, but that produces a noise a bit annoying and that overlaps the talks.

Kotu
Vegetable kottu

But with the same name, roti, can also indicate another snack, this more common at roti shops and some restaurants. These rotis are made with the same dough of parathas being prepared at the moment, and may have different fillings (vegetable, meat, cheese, egg…), resulting in a very thin crepe, flattened and folded into a rectangle.

roti, mas numa outra versão, e preparados na hora, cujo recheio pode ter muitas combinações, desde vegetais, caris, queijo, ovo... e até chocolate e banana, para agradar ao guloso padrão ocidental
roti, but in another version, and freshly prepared, whose filling may have many combinations, from vegetables, curries, cheese, eggs… and even chocolate and banana, to please the sweet western standard

The “roti shops” are specialising in rotis, kottus and fried rice… and to find a rice and curry, is better to look for a restaurant, that in Sri Lanka, are identify by the name “hotel”, and this designation applied the simplest establishments, unpretentious and cheap, but they are the favourite places among the local population…. and that don’t rent rooms!!

King Coconut

The “king” of the coconut! This species of native coconuts from Sri Lanka is an image that left a “yellow” memory of the island, where everywhere they sell these coconuts that grow almost everywhere (except in mountain areas), without requiring special care.

And not only in the color these coconuts are different, are also in the flavour, very sweet and more intense than the usual green coconuts shell, popular in neighbouring India.

The coconut has refreshing properties, helping lower the body temperature, which is great in tropical climates such as Sri Lanka. Besides leaving a fresh feeling when you drink the coconut water, it also leaves the stomach satiated due to the nutritional richness of the coconut. I often had it for breakfast or as a snack in the warm afternoons.

King Coconut. Sri Lanka
King Coconut. Sri Lanka

The coconut milk used in many dishes is made from the pulp, which gets thicker as the coconut matures and loses water. When almost dry, it grated and used to make pol sambol, a mixture of grated coconut, chilli (fresh and dry), onion, lime juice and salt. The grated coconut is also used as an ingredient of gotukola sambol , a crude mixture of a green leaf plant (gotukola) with chilli, onions and some spices.

Pol roti... panqueca salgada feita à base de côco ralada e farinha
Pol roti… on the right, a savory pancake made from grated coconut and flour: on the left the “ulundhu vadai”

Resulting from rice flour and grated coconut mixture, the pittu, is steamed in a cylindrical mold, resulting in a roll shape, that is soaked in curries, eaten as breakfast but that sometimes can be found at dinner time. Also, from this mixture is the pol roti, but where the dough is worked in the form of pancake and cooked on the stove, and which also serves as curries side dish.

pittu, rolo feito à base ce côco que depois de cozinhado ao vapor serve para acompanhar caris
“pittu”… roll made from grated coconut that after steamed is eaten with curries

In addition, the coconut is essential to making the most of the curries that are the basis of Sri Lankan cuisine, grated as a condiment or as coconut oil to cook.

Sweets

The sweets didn’t cause great impression in the gastronomic experience of Sri Lanka, but two stood out: coconut hopper and lavariya… not too sweet, light and without oil !!!

The sweet string hoppers or lavariya are a kind of noodles made with rice flour and steamed, which are then filled with a mixture of grated coconut, brown sugar (jaggery) and flavoured with cardamom… a delight.

lavariya, string hopper com recheio de côco e açucar
“lavariya”, string hopper stuffed with coconut and sugar

The coconut hoppers are made with rice flour and coconut, cooked steamed on a banana leaf; sold in pairs with a slightly sweet and creamy filling. They are soft, light and delicious.

Coconut Hoppers... a steamed version of the hoopers that is also made from rice flour and coconut milk
Coconut Hoppers… a steamed version of the hoopers that is also made from rice flour and coconut milk

Curd and honey

The curd and honey, which is no more than yogurt drizzled with honey, which in fact is not honey but molasses (treacle), very popular in Ella, where you can find it in different variations like curd and honey with rice, which makes it a good choice for breakfast. Good, but not amazing.

Curd and honey
Curd and honey

The traditional curd, a thicker yogurt, fatter than the usual, made with buffalo milk. Can be found in “milk bars” which are small street stalls, in “milk shops” and in some grocery stores. Being always sell in clay pots, with the smaller version weighing half a kilo. Mysteriously kept during the day outside of the refrigerator, without deterioration. They have sugar as usual find in Nepalese and Indian versions.

Curd
Curd, a yogurt made from buffalo milk

In bakeries beyond savory snacks, there are also cakes, that remind the European confectionary, with versions of bread sponge cake or marble cake, but with a rectangular shape. Another popular cake, similar to the “muffins”, but that proved to be quite dry and boring. In some cities, some bakeries offer a great variety of pastries with creams and fillings, but little catchy and too sweet.

uma versão do Sri Lanka dos muffins, ou praticamente o mesmo que os "queques" portugueses
Sri Lanka a version of the muffins

Bread

Despite these delicacies, bread in pale a Western version, is quite popular… toasted with butter or broken into pieces and drizzled with curry … unattractive but sold all over the places in so-called “bakeries”, in groceries, and in the streets by hawkers with bicycles or motorized tricycles that roam the streets of the villages, making themselves announced by ringing a bell or playing some tune.

The small white mass of bread, very light and tasteless, sold plain or stuffed with omelet: round or shaped as a baguette, are a Sri Lankan version of the sandwich. To these are also others to remind the “milk bread” and “donuts” but whose industrial aspect didn’t attracted.

carrinha do pão
van bread that circulates through the streets of cities
Pão
Bread in a more westernised version is also very popular in Sri Lanka, but unattractive, with white and very light dough, but with tropical climate gets quickly “rubbery”

Tea and coffee

Sri Lanka is known for tea, the famous Ceylon tea that the British introduced, and that continue to be produced on a large scale. And it is indeed the national drink, consumed with milk and lots of sugar.

But the coffee, without being famous, is quite nice, being prepared by filtration (filter coffee), not very strong, aromatic and smooth.

Meals Schedules

To find a particular type of food, you need first to learn about the schedule of each kind of food, as in Sri Lanka are followed unwritten rules about what to eat at certain times of the day.

So, in the morning, it’s time for roti, stuffed vegetables, fish or meat, as well as samosas, patties, rolls and cutlets, also with different fillings but all deep-fry in oil. The hoppers coconut and lavariya, slightly sweetened and steamed often serve breakfast.

Ulundhu Vada em primeiro plano.... depois roti, roti, roti...
“Ulundhu Vada” in the foreground… after cheese roti, roti fish, veg roti…

At lunch, the popular rice and curry are usually served from noon, and until it finishes at the pot, what can last a less than one hour but can extend up to two hours… looking for a rice and curry later increases the chances of eating cold food or reheated… or more probably not even find rice and curry. In some places, usually, in cities and great restaurants, this traditional meal is available from the morning, being served at breakfast. At lunch, an alternative to rice and curry are the string hoppers, but these more common in the most traditional places in Sri Lanka or in big restaurants in the main cities.

Rice and Curry buffet restaurant
Rice and Curry served in the traditional way of Sri Lanka on “buffet” system
String hopper (idyyappam) com dahl, um caril de lentilhas
“String hopper” to “dahl”, a simple curry lentils

At dinner time, which ends early, it is difficult to find places serving meals after 9.30 p.m, the more popular are the kottu, the roti and the paratha. For those who want a more substantial meal also the fried rice is a meal easy to find in the “Roti Shops”. The hoppers are also one of the traditional choices in the evening.

Fried rice with dahl, um caril de lentilhas
“Vegetable fried rice” accompanied by dahl, a lentil curry where sometimes a fried chilli show up remind us how spicy this cuisine can be!!!

Throughout the day, you can find the ulundhu vadai (fried dough ring-shaped), parippu vada (fried lentil pattie), the pol roti (pancake-based flour and coconut), the coconut roti (disc-shaped with onion and coconut)… and the omnipresent roti, whose popular vegetarian option triangle is marked in memory of Sinhalese snacks.

Street food junto à estação de comboios de Kandy, durante a manhã
Street food at Kandy railway station during the morning
Street food in Galle Fort, Colombo que só surge depois do pôr do sol
Street food in Galle Face, Colombo, that only comes after the sunset

The Sri Lankan cuisine was a good surprise, quiet different form the neighbouring India, very tasty, colourful, rich, nutritive… and vegetarian friendly. Resulting from different influences, the Sri Lankan food is absolutely connected with the green landscape and the warm tropical weather.

…. I miss the rice and curry as also the king coconut!

Malaysian food… underestimated cuisine!

Two things stand out in the cuisine of Malaysia… the ethnic, cultural and religious diversity that brings us to China, India, Thailand, Indonesia… and the rice which is present in almost all dishes.

From the staying in Borneo and West Malaysia several representative dishes of Malaysian cuisine remain, like lontong, laksa, nasi lemak, nasi goreng… “nasi” means rice and “goreng” refers to fried, so fried rice is one of the dishes easily find anywhere at any time of day, usually made with chicken, beef or seafood, with pork away from a gastronomy of a Muslim country.

Being a predominantly muslim country, Malaysian cuisine is dominated by meat dishes, but the strong presence of the Chinese community as well the Tamil from South of India bring other options that suits the vegetarian diet! 

In terms of nasi goreng, there are many variants (kampung, pattaya, ayam …), differing ingredients, seasonings and spices, always excelling spicy. The nasi goreng pattaya is basically fried rice (fried rice with meat, seafood or vegetables), involved in egg and drizzled with a sweet and spicy condiment. In Borneo this dish is often served with a bowl of broth that makes it less dry. Despite being unpopular and does not appear in the menus it is also possible to order vegetarian nasi goreng, but that is almost always made with egg, and not many vegetables.

Nasi Goreng Pattaya. Malaysia
Nasi Goreng Pattaya. Malaysia

But it is the nasi lemak that is the “king” and can be considered the Malaysian national dish. Usually eaten for breakfast, being basic and very simple to prepare. It consists of rice and small portions of fried small anchovies, fried peanuts, cucumber slices and egg, that can be boiled or fried. This meal can be served on the plate or wrapped in banana leaf for take-away. But what makes this special dish is the sambal, a red and thick paste, made with chilies, onion, ginger, garlic, anchovies and a few more spices, resulting in a very tasty mixture.

Nasi Lemak. Malaysia
Nasi Lemak. Malaysia

Laksa is another popular Malay dish that can be classified between a soup and a curry. It’s basically a broth, sweet and spicy, which includes the coconut milk, ginger, lime leaf (kaffir) and lemongrass, which involves fine rice noodles and bean sprouts. To this base usually is added meat, but you can also order it with tofu.

In Borneo, the laksa is creamier, with more coconut milk and usually served with tofu and seafood, where seafood comes down to shrimp or squid… but wherever it is always served with lime that brings out the other flavors.

Laksa. Kota Kinabalu. Malaysia
Laksa. Kota Kinabalu. Malaysia

Laksa. Melaka. Malaysia
Laksa. Melaka. Malaysia

Lontong, a traditional Indonesian dish that was built in Malaysian cuisine, and its vegetarian in is origin. Made with a compressed rice with a roll shape, cut in big pieces. To these these “chunks” is added a soft vegetable curry cooked in coconut milk, to which joins tofu, tempeh and boiled egg (or sometimes fried). Like the nasi lemak is served with a spoonful of sambal, also part of the popular dishes eaten for breakfast.

Lontong. Malaysia
Lontong. Malaysia

A popular snack in Borneo, and probably can also be found in the rest of Malaysia is called fried carrot cake, which despite its name has nothing to do with carrots, made from cooked and compressed rice-shaped blocks, which are cut into pieces and fried with egg, spicy and sometimes with soy sauce. Unhealthy due to amount of oil but very delicious.

In cities, especially in neighbourhoods dominated by Indian culture, often called Little India, it’s easy to find the traditional cuisine of southern India as a result of the strong presence of the Tamil community living here for generations. In addition to the delicious curries that give life to a dish of rice, often served in a banana leaf, you can also find murtabak, dosas and other typical Indian snacks, served with coconut chutney and sambar.

But what stands out are the roti canai, also called roti prata or paratta. It is a flat unleavened bread, but whose dough is extended until get very thin, thrown with mechanical and precise gestures against the table, repeatedly until almost getting ripped, in a process that requires a lot of oil. After is extended and rolled to create rough layers and is then fried in a metal plate until crisp and slightly toasted. The roti is accompanied by a small dish of curry, were it is is soaked.

You can find several versions of this roti, stuffed with egg, banana, sweetened milk…

Roti canai. Malaysia
Roti canai. Malaysia

From the presence of the Chinese community, result many restaurants and all variations around the noodles soup and fried noodles, and along with nasi goreng, are a popular option and easy to find at any time of day. As they are prepared at the moment they can be made in a vegetarian variant, where it is often added tofu, a notorious influence of Chinese cuisine.

The fried rice noodles in Malaysia answering to the name Kueh Teow Goreng, and are always made with egg, bean sprouts and some raw chives.

Kueh Teow Goreng. street food. Kuching. Malaysia
Kueh Teow Goreng. street food. Kuching. Malaysia

The dim sum, traditional Cantonese meal steamed in bamboo baskets, is a presence in some Chinese restaurants, some of which still retain the traditional system in which the food is circulated in trolleys through the tables with customers choose the food among the dozens of varieties… were hardly can be find vegetarian food.

Very popular in areas with the highest concentration of the Chinese community, as are the Chinatown in different cities of Malaysia, are the shops specialised in dried meat that is prepared in different ways, ranging from sweet to spicy.

But what stands out the Chinese food, resulting from the attractive price and the wide range of options is the rice dish serve in buffet style: a plate of with a portion of rice were different dishes are added chosen from trays of food, which can be meat, fish, eggs, vegetables and the popular tofu that is cooked in different ways. This system is very popular, not limited to Chinese cuisine, extending the Malaysian food restaurants that although more focus in meat also offer a wide variety in terms of vegetarian food. Just need to ask for “rice” and we are given a plate with of rice for each one add the dishes.

Rice plate restaurant. George Town. Malaysia
Rice plate restaurant. George Town. Malaysia

Rice plate. George Town. Malaysia
Rice plate. George Town. Malaysia
Rice plate street food. George Town. Malaysia
Rice plate street food. George Town. Malaysia

About street food, Malaysia will get a lot of inspiration to neighboring Thailand, and is easier to find in the cities of the north of the country than for example in Borneo. In small stalls that arise several hours a day in specific locations of the city can be found apom, steam rice cake, fried banana, and the popular and delicious apam balik that are pancakes stuffed peanuts… and many more delicious options that also include snacks, often fried.

Apom. George Town. Malaysia
Apom. George Town. Malaysia
street stall of chendul (chendol). George Town. Malaysia
street stall of chendul (chendol). George Town. Malaysia

Markets are also great places to enjoy and experience the wide variety of food, a lot of which is difficult to identify, whether it is sweet or salt, whether it is meat or vegetarian… but always arouses curiosity.

Street food. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia
Street food. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia
Shellfish. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia
Shellfish. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia

As a tropical country abound bananas, mangoes and papayas… but also in the markets as street vendors also are pineapple, jackfruit, watermelon and melons… but it is the durian, the king of tropical fruits, much appreciated as hated by intense and characteristic smell, that make it forbidden to carry in the subway.

Durian. Kota Kinabalu. Malaysia
Durian. Kota Kinabalu. Malaysia
Fruits. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia
Fruits. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia

Sweets

The chendul (or chendol) is a traditional cold sweet very popular in Malaysia, based on coconut milk and crushed ice, sweetened with palm sugar syrup and served with a green noodles (whose color comes from a vegetable often used in sweets and dishes, the pandan) and a few sweetened beans. It may seem odd but it is delicious and refreshing and in some places, like George Town people line up in small street stalls to buy chendul.

Chendul (chendol). Melaka. Malaysia
Chendul (chendol). Melaka. Malaysia
Fry Banana. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia
Fry Banana. Central Market. Kota kinabalu. Borneo. Malaysia
Sweet and deep fry snacks at Central Market. Kota Kinabalu. Malaysia
Sweet and deep fry snacks at Central Market. Kota Kinabalu. Malaysia

Very popular is kaya, a coconut and egg jam, that sometimes can have the green color, if it’s added pandan. Kaya is used to spread on toast, which served with eggs and tea is also one of the option in terms of traditional breakfast in Malaysia, mainly in cities. Kaya Jam is also used to fill puff tarts as the ones sold in a small corner shop in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown.

Kaya Jam. Malaysia
Kaya Jam at breakfast. Malaysia
Coconut puff tart. Chinatown. Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia
Coconut puff tart. Chinatown. Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia

Adding to the list of popular sweet is the beancurd (also called soybean pudding) a kind of pudding made of soy, which is sweetened with palm sugar syrup, is also popular in most dominant Chinese areas.

Beancurd. Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia
Beancurd. Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia

Drinks

Being a predominantly Muslim country, alcohol is unusual at local restaurants but is easy to find in bars and restaurants in more tourist sites, especially the beer.

But the most popular in terms of drinks is teh tarik, which is tea to which is added sweetened milk, and can be served hot or with ice (teh ais). It is consumed in the morning, usually hot, accompanying meals, like roti canai for example, or during the day, as a break in the workday.

Coffee is also easy to find, being in Malaysia usual the filtered coffee, served in a very strong version in terms of caffeine, with a dense and dark look but soft flavor.

Teh Ais (Ice tea with condensed meilk). Malaysia
Teh Ais (Ice tea with condensed meilk). Malaysia
Coffee. Malaysia
Coffee. Malaysia

For vegetarian food the best option are the Indian restaurants, due to the influence of the Hindu religion and some Chinese restaurants that resulting to the connection with Buddhist religion can sometimes exclude animal products. In restaurants more targeted to the Malay cuisine is notorious the strong presence of meat dishes, and yet respecting the halal rules, which pork is exclude. Yet pork meat is quite popular in Chinese dishes.

In general there are few dishes exclusively vegetarian in Malaysia gastronomy, and even those who appear to have no animal products, can often be served with a condiment called “sambal” that includes anchovies or any other small fish.

For those who are used to eating knife and fork, it is here to adapt to the use spoon and fork, because the knife is an instrument that does not arrive at the table, being unnecessary since the food is cut into pieces being brought to mouth by the spoon, serving the fork to push food into the spoon. In Malaysia the food is take to mouth with the right hand. In Indian restaurants it is common to use the fingers to bring food to the mouth, but spoons are always available. Spoon and chopsticks are used in Chinese restaurants. In general, the restaurants do not have napkins.

And as in other Asian countries the first meal of the day is made on the basis of rice and noodles, soups or curries. The rotis are also popular for breakfast. Many restaurants serving breakfast open at 6 am, but this are not always open until dinnertime, closing by 3 or 4 pm. But there are others who not opening so soon, serve meals until dinnertime, but not much later than 9 pm. Take-away system is very popular with both restaurants and street stall to be prepared to parcel food in proper containers or more traditionally in banana leaf.

Rice and curry for for take away. Malaysia
Rice and curry for for take away. Malaysia

In general, even with the limited vegetarian choices, Malaysia gastronomy offers a great diversity of flavours, with simple dishes, fast and easy to prepare but very tasty… I miss the laksa, lontong and nasi lemak.

Food Costs in Malaysia

In food courts a meal costs between 3.5 and 5 RM, which means that you can easily get a meal for 1 €.

The same applies to the so-called rice plat, with two or three varieties of vegetarians side dishes costs about 4 MR. The food costs in Kuala Lumpur are a bit higher were a rice plate eaten in a restaurant can costs about 5 RM, but van be cheaper is a street food stall

Dishes with meat, fish or seafood always have higher prices.

George Town… street art and street food

Penang often mistaken for George Town. Penang is a state on the west coast of Malaysia, which includes the island of Pulau Pinang. But what attracts most visitors to this site is the city of George Town (or Georgetown) the capital and largest city of this state, whose name is due to the British presence that settled here in the eighteenth century, making this site one of the important posts trade in the region, is the quiet atmosphere in a colonial well preserved heritage.

From this presence resulted a vast architectural heritage ranging from official buildings, churches and shophouses, which are buildings of two or three floors where the ground floor is intended for commerce and the top floors for residence, continuing today to have these functions.

As an important trading post, George Town attracted many merchants from several neighboring countries such as Thai, Burmese, Tamils ​​from south India and many Chinese, which resulted in a great cultural and religious diversity which is revealed in the diversity of temples: Buddhist temples, Hindu temples and mosques, as also the Christian, Catholic and Anglican churches.

From this mixture that learn how to live together taking advantage of their differences, born a very unique identity which joined the Malay culture, resulting in a country that today is an example of religious, ethnic and cultural tolerance. Also resulted in a great culinary diversity for which Penang is famous, finding restaurants and street food stall, a bit all over the old town, each zone with is own type of food, serving during the day, but obeying to a specific schedule according to the food…. you can not find chendul in the evening or Steam Rice Cake during the day.

The old town is considered World Heritage Site by Unesco, where much of the buildings are ancient, with many of the shophouses to maintain the traditional architecture, some converted into trendy cafes, restaurants and accommodation as a result of the large number of tourists.

George Town
George Town

 

George Town
George Town

 

George Town
George Town

 

Food Market. George Town
Food Market. George Town

 

George Town
George Town

 

George Town
George Town

 

George Town
George Town

 

George Town
George Town

 

George Town
George Town

 

Another of the architectural features of the city are called five foot ways, which are a kind of sidewalks formed by the buildings where the ground floor is set back from the facade, creating a passage in the form of arcades, which protects the inhabitants of the sole of rain. The name comes from the width with which they were built that were originally built (approximately 1.5 meters), but there five foot ways of varying sizes by adjusting the width of the streets.

Georgetown is famous for street art, which somehow has become institutional, with many artistic interventions in a planned and organised manner, which removes the subversive and intervention that is one of the street-art facets. And from the many murals which can be found in the old town, only a few works stand out of the homogeneous, simple and innocent set of murals.

Street art. George Town
Street art. George Town

 

George Town
George Town

Despite the exposed art on the walls is worth a closer look to what is happening under our feet, where the floors of many five foot ways are coated tiles, with elaborate geometric patterns and attractive colors.

5 foot way. George Town
5 foot way. George Town

 

5 foot way. George Town
5 foot way. George Town

 

Georgetown smells old and at the same time has a modern character in a quiet environment, only interrupted by the bustle of the bars at weekends become part of Lebuh Chulia and Love Lane a messy and noisy area, clashing with the quietness of rest of the city.

George Town
George Town

Where to stay in Georgetown

A building full of personality and style, friendly and helpful staff makes the 100 Cintra a special place with an atmosphere that invites you to stay for a long term.

100 Cintra Guest House @ George Town
100 Cintra Guest House @ George Town

100 Cintra

Address: 100, Lebuh Cintra, George Town, Pulau Pinang 10200, Malaysia

http://www.100cintrapenang.com/

 

Where to eat in Georgetown

Penang is the capital of Malaysian food, resulting from the variety of ethnic and religious diversity present here; George Town is also famous for street food that is here more easily to find than in other Malaysian cities; so it is best to wander around the streets and following intuition… and the nose.

Popular areas for street food:

  • Lebuh Kimberley, near the intersection with Lebuh Cintra (predominantly in the morning, but with some vendors to stay up at night);
  • Penang Jalang between Jalang Campbell and Jalan Dr Lim Leong Chewee where along the small cross streets several street stalls prepare and sell their products: meals, snacks, sweets, ice cream, drinks, etc …
  • Lebuh Chulia between the junction with Love Lane and Jalan Kapitan Masijd Keiling (after dark)

 

Apom, traditional asian sweet like a cookie. Street food. George Town.
Apom, traditional asian sweet like a cookie. Street food. George Town.

 

chendul @ Lebuh Keng Kwee. George Town
chendul @ Lebuh Keng Kwee. George Town

 

Food not to be missed in George Town:

  • NG Kee Cake Shop, Plant and cake shop in Lebuh Cintra, with coconut tarts.
  • Veg thali served in banana leaf, the many restaurants in Little India, especially along the Lebuh Penang
  • Steam Rice Cake in Lebuh Cintra in front of a Chinese restaurant Dim Sum, but that only emerges after dark.
  • Lebuh Keng Kwee in chendul
Coconut tarts and traditional Chinese Cookies Shop and Bakery @ Lebuh Cintra. George Town
Coconut tarts and traditional Chinese Cookies Shop and Bakery @ Lebuh Cintra. George Town

 

Delicious traditional malay and chineses fast-food Restaurant @ Lebuh Cintra. George Town
Delicious traditional malay and chineses fast-food Restaurant @ Lebuh Cintra. George Town

 

Delicious traditional malay and chineses fast-food Restaurant @ Lebuh Cintra. George Town
Delicious traditional malay and chineses fast-food Restaurant @ Lebuh Cintra. George Town

 

Little India... always noisy, colourful in any country. George Town
Little India… always noisy, colourful in any country. George Town

 

Chinese Restaurant at Lebuh Cintra with traditional Dim Sum. George Town
Chinese Restaurant at Lebuh Cintra with traditional Dim Sum. George Town

How to get from Kuala Lumpur to George Town:

Kuala Lumpur TBS Terminal (Terminal Bersepadu Selatan) there are buses throughout the day from the 6:00 am to 12:00 am.

The trip to Penang lasts about five hours, but can be 6 hours or more depending on traffic outside of Kuala Lumpur.

There are two options to get to George Town:

  1. Bus from Kuala Lumpur (TBS Terminal) to Butterworth, and then ferry boat to George Town. The ferry takes 10-15 minutes and costs 2 RM. The distance being the Butterwoth Bus Terminal and the ferry is short but takes about 10 minutes to walk. This bus option to Butterworth may have the drawback of making Sungai Nibong Express stop at the Bus Terminal in Penang, which means cross the bridge to the island and then return back to the terminal service in Butterworth Bus Terminal.
  2. Bus from Kuala Lumpur (TBS Terminal) to Sungai Nibong Express Bus Terminal in Penang. Here you need to catch a local bus to George Town (12 km).

Tickets KL – Butterworth: 35 RM

The ferry is the most pleasant option, especially if the trip coincides with the end of the day.

Check more information:

http://www.penangport.com.my/Services/Ferry-Services

 

way from Butterworth Bus Terminal to the ferry to Georgetown. Penang
way from Butterworth Bus Terminal to the ferry to Georgetown. Penang

 

Ferry Butterworth-Georgetown. ferry fees
Ferry Butterworth-Georgetown. ferry fees

 

on the ferryboat Butterworth-George Town
on the ferryboat Butterworth-George Town

 

How to get from George Town to Kuala Lumpur:

One option is to go to the pier (on foot or by local bus) and take the ferry to Butterworth, walk until the Butterworth Bus Terminal and from their take a bus to Kuala Lumpur. No reservation needed because many companies do this service so there is a great offer in terms of timetables.

Alternatively you can catch a bus directly from George Town to Kuala Lumpur.

  • Buses leave from Sungai Nibong Express Bus Terminal, located 12 km from George Town.
  • Tickets can be purchased on the same day, and even at the time, one of the many agencies located in Jalan Ria near KOMTAR. The agencies have a shuttle service from the office to the terminal (3 RM)

Bus Tickets George Town (Penang) – Kuala Lumpur: 38 RM + 3 RM (shuttle to the Sungai Nibong Express terminal)

Location of travel agencies that sale bus tickets to Kuala Lumpur @ Georgetown
Location of travel agencies that sale bus tickets to Kuala Lumpur @ Georgetown

 

Travel agencies that sale bus tickets to Kuala Lumpur @ George Town
Travel agencies that sale bus tickets to Kuala Lumpur @ George Town

 

Schedule of buses from Georgetown to Kuala Lumpur
Schedule of buses from Georgetown to Kuala Lumpur

Food in Singapore… so may vegetarian options!!

Singapore is proud to be the culinary capital of Asia, receiving influences of Chinese Malaysian, Indian and Indonesia cuisines, as also Sri Lanka and Thailand. Arise even traces of Portuguese and English presence in the region, were the “portuguese egg tart” which is no more than the famous pastel-de-nata.

Singapore like any big city offers a wide range of choice in terms of restaurants, not only in terms of cuisine, where Asian food dominates but also with many Western and World option, but also in terms of cost of a meal.

And through the city, we are faced with the simplest and informal restaurants, whose space is open to the street, to the most sophisticated places, passing through many restaurants “a la carte” that feature a wide range of prices. In between is a myriad of choices, showing that food plays an important role in the social live of Singaporeans, that given the high purchasing power fill up restaurants, especially on Fridays and Saturdays.

And here we are faced with the question what really is the typical Singaporean food… the answer is: that’s a bit of everything, not a mixture of influences from which resulted an own cuisine that reflects the geographical position, climate, fauna and flora of the region, but an offer of diversity in terms of gastronomy that reflects the ethnic and religious diversity is what best defines this country-city-state.

10 local dishes to try in Singapore
10 local dishes to try in Singapore
Rochor Beancurd House: soy-milk, beancurd e “portuguese egg tart”!
Rochor Beancurd House: soy-milk, beancurd e “portuguese egg tart”!

The areas of Little India, Kampong Glam and Chinatown are the most attractive in terms of food, with any of them with options for all pockets. The shopping centers also have many options in terms of restaurants apart from fast food and big international food chains.

In Singapore the food although more expensive than in neighboring Asian countries is affordable, as you stick to food-courts and markets, as there isn’t in Singapore “street food”. These sites provide meals from 4 S$, which corresponds to € 2.5.

A bit all over the city, with the exception of the most sophisticated and wealthy areas (Wafles Place, Marina Bay, etc…) there are food-courts that comprised several kiosks, stall or small restaurants grouped in the same space sharing a common area consisting of tables and chairs, were people have meals or drinks. Each of these places has it own type of food that usually is served in take-away system. These food-courts could be huge to the point where a person almost get lost in there or of more modest dimensions, but they are always the cheapest and quickest option and the one that attracts most of the local people.

Usually these places offer several options in terms of food, Chinese, Malay, India … but some are more targeted to Chinese food, where it is sometimes difficult to find vegetarian food. The fried-rice and fried-noodles are easy to find and are a good vegetarian options, as the food is made in the moment and is possible to ask to replace the meat or seafood, for vegetables and sometimes tofu. Also very popular is the so called fast food or simply rice or rice plate, where food is exposed on trays in buffet style with many vegetarian options, and each person make his own plate, based on rice, paying for the number of varieties that are served. This type of meal can cost around 4 to 5 S$ and have a lot of choices for vegetarians, with lots of legumes, tofu and soy product dishes.

Chinatown Complex
Chinatown Complex
Chinatown Peoples Park Complex.
Chinatown Peoples Park Complex.
Chinatown. food court
Chinatown. food court

With so much diversity is not difficult to find vegetarian or even vegan restaurants, but these usually in more sophisticated areas of the city, and not so affordable. But Singapore brings together different types of cuisines and almost everywhere have at least one vegetarian option, with the Chinese food the most difficult in this field, and the Indiana the easiest since in Singapore there are a big Hindu community. The Malaysian food also has some traditional dishes, that depending on the restaurant may have or not animal products, but you can try to ask to replaced meat, fish or shellfish by tofu, which due to Chinese influence is quite popular.

But attention because sometimes the pastes that seasoning the food are often made with fish-source or other animal condiments. For vegans is more difficult as the eggs are a constant presence in many of the dishes.

Tooth Relic Temple
Tooth Relic Temple

Kampong Glam, the so-called Arab Quarter featuring up around the mosque Masjid Sultan, one can find food from Morocco, Tunisia, Turkey and Iran, as also many more options being an ideal place to enjoy traditional Malaysian dishes: laksa, lontong, nasi lemak, nasi goreng … where “nasi” means rice, that could be steamed or stir-fry in various forms and flavors, with vegetables, egg, chicken, beef or seafood… pork is excluded from Malay gastronomy as this is Muslim country.

The nasi lemak can be considered one of the most popular dishes from Malaysia and is usually consumed at breakfast, simple and very easy to prepare is based on rice with fried anchovies, fried peanuts, cucumber slices and egg (boiled or fried) at the side. The nasi lemak can be served on the plate or wrapped in banana leaf to take-away. But what makes this special dish is the sambal, a red paste resulting from a mix of chilies, onions, garlic, ginger and a few more spices, resulting in a spicy mixture, but very tasty.

Laksa is another popular Malaysian dishes easily found in Singapore, comprising a curry based on coconut milk, sweet and spice with ginger and lemongrass, which involves rice noodles and some vegetables. It may also served with shellfish.

Lontong is a traditional Indonesian dish that was built in Malaysian cuisine, and also popular in Singapore. Made with pressed rice forming a roll which is then cut into pieces seasoning with a vegetable curry cooked on coconut milk, to which joins tofu, tempeh and boiled egg. Like the nasi lemak, it adds a fish-based sambal.

Laksa
Laksa
Nasi Lemak
Nasi Lemak
lontong
lontong

Kampong Glam is one of the best places to try the biryani, an Indian dish made of rice, traditional in Muslim areas, but with a Malay “twist” with a strong meat presence. Here you can also appreciate the roti prata, or simply roti, or paratta, which is traditional South Indian specialty but that was incorporated in Malaysian cuisine being also very popular in Singapore. It is a flat bread, unleavened, but whose dough is extended to be very thin, with the help of much oil and then worked and flattened, in order to create rough layers, which later sintered in metallic surface until becomes slightly crispy. It is served with a small dish of curry, were pieces of the roti are soaked. We can find many versions of this dish, with the roti stuffed with egg, banana, sweetened milk…

roti @ Singapore Zam Zam Restaurant
roti @ Singapore Zam Zam Restaurant

For those who like Indian food, Little India is the place that offers best variety, especially focus traditional food of South India, as most of the Indian community resident here has his origins the state of Tamil Nadu. In addition to all the most popular type of snacks are the thalis with many restaurants serving this meal, vegetarian or non-vegetarian, in a banana leaf. Here are also the popular rotis, the dosa, uttapam, vada, puri, etc … Little India is also the best place to buy Indian origin products such as spices and condiments, lying in grocery stores a large variety of vegetables .

veg thali @ Famous Indian Curry Food Restaurant. Little India
veg thali @ Famous Indian Curry Food Restaurant. Little India

In Chinatown, even more than in other parts of the city, buzzing with activity around the food, dominating the food-courts, where you can meet hundreds of food stalls and find a bit of everything in terms of Asian cuisine, attracting thousands of people and open from morning until the evening, with food being served throughout the day. One of the most popular is the Chinatown Complex, where the environment is noisy and busy but it provides an interesting insight into the way of life, culture and way of being of the population. A meal in these food-courts can cost between 4 to 5 S$, with the meat and seafood dishes higher-priced.

One of Chinese specialties is the popiah, a very thin dough roll involving a mix of lettuce, soy sprouts, peanuts, cooked carrots and a spicy sauce. They are delicious, and a great vegetarian option for a snack.

Chinatown Complex. Popiah
Chinatown Complex. Popiah
Chinatown Complex. Popiah
Chinatown Complex. Popiah

Also in Chinatown, the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, there is a canteen in the basement where only vegetarian food is served, but according to Chinese recipes, where the meat is replaced by derivatives from vegetable origin that resemble meat in appearance and consistency. A ideal way to explore the rich Chinese cuisine for vegetarians. Each meal, which consists of a rice dish with two dishes cost 3 $S. Only open till 3 pm. The food is good, the atmosphere is calm and has charitable purposes.

Tooth Relic Temple
Tooth Relic Temple

In terms of drinks tea is very popular among the Chinese community, being seen for medicinal purposes; but it is the milk-tea that gained in popularity, which is tea with sweetened milk that can be served hot or with ice. A sweet and refreshing drink that goes well with the hot and humid climate of Singapore. Addictive.

The coffee is also very popular and can be found at sophisticated coffee shops, coping the western style with espresso, cappuccino, latte, etc… or alternatively you can taste the Singaporean coffee, kopi, a filtered coffee extremely dense and very strong in terms of caffeine, which is served in different ways:

  • Kopi: coffee with condensed milk, served hot
  • Kopi C: hot coffee served with milk and sugar
  • Kopi: with sugar
  • Kopi Kosong: without sugar and without milk
Kopi, Singaporean coffee, served with green tea cake
Kopi, Singaporean coffee, served with green tea cake

Where to eat in China Town:

  • Tooth Relic Temple: canteen with Chinese Vegetarian Food: 3 S$.

Address: 288 S Bridge Rd, Singapore 058840

Tooth Relic Temple. Schedule
Tooth Relic Temple. Schedule
  • Chinatown Complex: the fresh market in the basement, laundry on the ground floor and food on the first floor where the options are so many it’s hard to choose with different types of cuisines and specialty stalls in specific dishes; meals from 3 S$.
Chinatown Complex
Chinatown Complex. Maret, food market and food-court

Where to eat in Little India:

  • Komala Villas: Typical South Indian food at affordable prices; thali served in a banana leaf.

Address: 76 Serangoon Road, Singapore 217981

Komala Vila Restaurante. Little India
Komala Vila Restaurante. Little India
  • Famous Indian Curry Food Restaurant: serving delicious thali in banana leaf, in a informal and quiet restaurant in with vegetarian options. 6 S$

Address: 30/32 Upper Dickson Road, Singapore 207489

Famous Indian Curry Food Restaurant. Little India
Famous Indian Curry Food Restaurant. Little India

Where to eat in Kampong Glam (Arab Quarter):

  • Kampong Glam Cafe: good food with a wide variety of Malaysian dishes (lontong, laksa, nasi lemak, nasi goreng and many more), rotis and also with the self-service option where based on rice can compose the dish with various side dishes to choose from a big range of option, and where you can also find vegetarian Optimal location for a meal or just for a drink (no alcohol) and watching the local way of life. Meals from 3.5 S$.

Address: 17 Bussorah St, Singapore 199438

Kampong Glam Café
Kampong Glam Café
  • Singapore Zam Zam Restaurant: very popular for byriani (only meat) and the rotis

Address: 697-699 N Bridge Rd, Singapore 198675

Singapore Zam Zam Restaurant
Singapore Zam Zam Restaurant

Where to eat in Geyland:

  • Rice House (Wang Da Zhou): This casual restaurant confeciona the recipes of Chinese cuisine but using derived from vegetable products, mainly soybeans, which are similar in texture to the meat, and we can thus enjoy “hainanese chicken rice” without sacrificing animals ☺

Address: Blk 129 # 01-102 Geylang East Avenue 2, Singapore380129, Singapore

  • Rochor Beancurd House: here are produced and serve to soy-based products, for example soy-milk and beancurd (also called soybean pudding) a pudding made of very soft and smooth tofu that is served as a dessert or snack, washed down with sugarcane syrup, a typical product of Chinese cuisine. In addition, there is the “portuguese egg tart”!

Address: 745 Geyland Road (Lor 39), Singapore 389653

Rochor Beancurd House:soy-milk, beancurd e “portuguese egg tart”!
Rochor Beancurd House:soy-milk, beancurd e “portuguese egg tart”!

Bread in Iran… a delicious experience!

The bread play a very important role in the diet of the Iranian people, and it can be found all over the place, whether in bazaars or along city streets, small bakeries that work at the same time of shops. Sometimes difficult to find, hiding in secondary streets and small alleys, discrete, often without signs or any kind of identification, only recognized by one bread at the entrance hanging or the line that makes at the door.

The most common bread and perhaps what is more often is the barbari (Nan-e barbari), with a distorted oval shape, thickness and some strips that make it thin and crispy in that places. Also very popular is the lavash (Nan-e lavash), very thin, whitish, slightly crispy, it has the advantage of being able to save for a long time. It’s not the most interesting options with little flavor and a very industrial look, but it is the most ancient breads Middle East.

Both barbari as lavash are cooked in ovens, which are electric current. But sangak (Nan-e sangak) has the particularity of being cooked in a woven over small stones, which gives a surface with “hollows” on the base, resulting in a crispy bread, with the same shape barnari, and a delicious taste.

With a different shape, being rounded and thin, but softer than lavash, the taftoon (Nan-e taftoon) has the advantage of being of smaller because in Iran the loaves have a family size.

There are several batches during the day, and seam that people know when to find the hot bread, making sometimes lines in front of bakeries; I limited myself to rely on luck and when passing by one of these small shops to delight me with bread handmade and fresh from the oven.

barbari (Nan-e barbari),
barbari (Nan-e barbari),
lavash (Nan-e lavash),
lavash (Nan-e lavash),
Nan-e sangak
Nan-e sangak
taftoon  (Nan-e taftoon)
taftoon (Nan-e taftoon)

Bread_Iran_Nan-e sangak_DSC_2218

Bakery. Yazd
Bakery. Yazd
Bakery. Kashan
Bakery. Kashan
Bakery. Tehran
Bakery. Tehran
Bakery. Kashan
Bakery. Kashan
taftoon  (Nan-e taftoon)
taftoon (Nan-e taftoon)
Bakery
Bakery
Bakery. Esfahan
Bakery. Esfahan

Food in Iran… a survival guide for vegetarians

Being a follower of a vegetarian diet a month in Iran was not the best experience at gastronomic level, with some exceptions to this diet, often through ignorance or language barrier, others by not refuse a meal kindly offered as in the Ashura Day.

So the famous Iranian cuisine was unexplored and may not my experience do justice to what is eaten in Iran.

But in terms of restaurants, for those who do not intend to go to the upper range, there aren’t many options, except the so-called fast-food, which are basically kebaks, burgers and falafel. This lack of options reveals that people often do not do a lot of eating out, which is understandable in a country where many women are still domestic.

Iran_Spices_Bazaar-e Bozorg_Esfahan_DSC_2911
Mix of Spices at Tabriz Bazaar

Mirza Ghasemi. Masuleh
Mirza Ghasemi, made from eggplant, roasted and then chopped and fried with more ingredients, resulting in a very intense and tasty blend, but a bit greasy. Serve with rice, with a hunk of butter on the top. Garlic pickles are one of the specialties of Gilan region, and combine well with the strong flavor of the main course. Masuleh

Dizi. Tabriz
Dizi a stew of vegetables and beans with meat. Very rich in flavor and with greasy gravy… even not eating meat the flavor of the lamb is too present. Rice is one of the most popular side dishes in Iranian, always served with a hunk of butter. Tabriz

Ashura food. Yazd
Ashura food offered in the Yazd streets on the day of Ashura, were is as tradition offer tea, sweets, bread and even full meals. This is the “gheimeh” a stew that combines lentils, beans and lamb.

Iranian Pizza. Esfahan
Iranian Pizza… yes, Iran has a very particular version of pizza. The dough is thick and fluffy. There is a slight tomato ketchup layer, and the other ingredient together with cheese are brought to the oven for a long time, until the dough is baked, which makes a cheese get from melt to crispy. It is served with ketchup packs. Leaving behind preconceived ideas about pizza, the result is quite good… like everything where bread and cheese are present ;). Esfahan

Hot and Cold

According to the Iranian tradition the meals should be balanced between hot and cold food, and this is nothing to do with the temperature that they are cooked or consumed but comes from their intrinsic properties, with hot foods speed up metabolism and cold foods to slow down. Examples of hot foods: meat, sugar, wheat, alcohol, dried fruits; cold food is yogurt, fruit, vegetables, rice…

Meat dishes are consumed often with a mixture of raw vegetables, including spring onions, radishes, mint, coriander, lettuce, arugula… and yogurt that is often present at meal, balance the energetic value of food.

The traditional breakfast in Iran has the obligatory presence bread, which appears in various forms but always following the tradition of Middle-East flat breads, ant that can be long or round shape. Accompanying bread, is the cheese, butter, tomatoes, cucumber, dried fruits, nuts, dates, honey, tahini … and the ever-present tea that is consumed throughout the day and indispensable in the mornings.

So, balancing bread, nuts and dates, joins the yogurt, tomato and cucumber … and tea, which like rice are considered neutral food.

Iranian Break-fast
Iranian Break-fast

Dairy

Are undoubtedly a strong presence in Iranian diet, with yogurt to be preset at meals, cheese for breakfast, milk-based sweets, butter served on top of rice …

Clearly dominates the uncured white cheese made from sheep’s milk, more or less creamy, sold in roughly square blocks. In the markets the ripened cheese is absent. The dairy shops, beside cheese also have yogurt and butter, exposed in freezers in large blocks easily identified by the yellow color and the fingerprints as a kind of “decoration”.

Queijo e manteiga. Tabriz
Cheese and Butter. Tabriz

Queijo.Tabriz
Cheese sold in blocks. Tabriz

Dairy shopt at Tabriz Bazar
Dairy shopt at Tabriz Bazar

Butter
Butter

Queijo semelhante a um creme que acompanha a refeição. Masuleh
A kind of cream cheese were is added a paste based on spices, salt resulting in very intense mixture that blends well with the neutral flavour of this product between cheese and butter. Masuleh

Sweets

There are many pastries dedicated to the manufacture and sale of sweets, where the cakes follow the French style pastry but in a less sophisticated version, with biscuits and cream cakes. In some more sophisticated areas of the big cities you can find the traditional Turkish sweet baklava.

However the Iranian sweets has much more to offer, with each region associated with at least one specific sweet. In Fuman the Koloocheh, a stuffed cookie with a sugary paste, Esfahan, the Fereni, a milk pudding with dates syrup, in Shiraz the Foloudeh a kind of noodles served ice cream and drizzled with rose-water, in Yazd where the sweets have a strong tradition stands the Iranian version of baklava, which here doesn’t have the thin layers of puff dough, being more compact and stuffed with almond paste. Kashan is famous for rose-water and sweets from using it.

Everywhere, in shops or bazaars, you can find halva, a more or less smooth paste made of flour, butter or oil, and sugar or honey, flavored with spices like cardamom and cinnamon. It is found in rectangular blocks where it is sold by weight, or packaged. The tahini is also very popular in Iran, where this rich sesame past is mix with honey. In Yazd lies one of the best combinations: tahini with halva.

Koloocheh. Fuman
Koloocheh. Fuman

Fereni. Esfahan
Fereni. Esfahan

Foloodeh. Shiraz
Foloodeh. Shiraz

Baklava. Yazd
Baklava. Yazd

Pastelaria
Bakery. Tabriz

Pastelaria
Bakery. Esfahan

Street-food

Definitely Iran is not a street-food country, with the exception od some vendors circulating in the bazaars streets and occasionally in the surrounding areas, with baked broad beans that are seasoned with vinegar, and others selling sweet potatoes, beet-root and other roots cooked in sugar syrup.

In Tabriz had happy encounter with a rustic sort of wrap, with the bread to be stuffed with roast potatoes, boiled egg and salad, resulting in a meal that can fill your stomach for a few hours.

The markets are sometimes fruit juice vendors freshly made; but in small shops scattered around the town, the so-called juice bars have a wider offer (apple, orange, pomegranate, melon, carrots…) and are a good option to gain energy and combat the heat with a cool drink .

A sweet mixture of water and chia seeds, which gives it a certain texture and consistency is also very popular and refreshing.

Favas. Masuleh
Braad Beans. Masuleh

Street-food. Tabriz
Street-food. Tabriz

wraps. Tabriz
wraps of roasted potatoes, boiled egg, tomato and some vegetables. Tabriz

Juice bar. Tehran
Juice bar. Refreshing and sweet drink with chia seeds and juice of melon, very popular this time of year. Tehran

Roots. Tehran
Street vendor in one of the Tehran bazaar streets with baked beans that never arrived and experience, and cooked beets into sugar syrup and cinnamon, which is served hot to smoke, leaving a sweet smell in the air. Tehran

Fruit and Nuts

In terms of fruits there’s a bit from everything, with the month of October filling the markets with the appetizing pomegranates and delicious grapes. But are also available in big quantities find watermelons and delicious apples and juicy peaches. Bananas are also common but they are probably one of the few tropical fruits available here.

But the focus go to the dry-fuits: prunes, raisins, apricots, figs… lying in many varieties and presentations (some sweeter, some more acidic, others a bit salty, etc. ..), with the dates having a special place here in Iran, being part of the daily diet as in the preparation of dishes or consumed simple for breakfast or as a snack during the day. The city of Bam and the Kerman region are particularly famous for dates, that are commercialized in the fresh version, sweet and soft, having to be kept refrigerated. In other places around Iran are more popular and easy to find the more dry dates, sugary and stick but also delicious.

Nuts, which include, walnuts, almonds, cashews and pistachios are everywhere… and can be found simple, roasted, salted, spicy… in October, perhaps because the pistachio seasons you can find so-called “fresh” with a thin layer of skin that covers the shell, with a most tender and sweet nut than dry version commonly found.

Tabriz and Bandar Abbas, curiously the first and last stop on this journey in Iran, were the places where I found a greater variety of nuts and dry-fruits.

Tâmaras
Dates. Kashan Bazar

Dry-fruits
Dry-fruits

Dry-fruits
Dry-fruits

Pistachio
“fresh” pistachio. Tabriz

Romã
Pomegranade. Bam

Ash-e reshteh and halim

The ash-e reshteh is one of the best gastronomic memories of Iran, since in terms of vegetarian food there are not many options in restaurants. A soup made from vegetables, lentils, beans and noodles, cooked in pans giant until all ingredients were almost broken (and this includes the noodles that are not “al dent”), resulting in a consistent and thick soup. This soup alone is a substantial meal being sometimes accompanied by bread. Depending of the places the ash-e reshteh can be served with a topping of fried onions, a blend of herbs in oily paste, or some drops of Kashk, a kind of thick and sour cream. Great meal.

The halim (haleem) resembles more a puree, made with wheat-based grain, milk and meat (lamb or turkey), which are cooked together for a long time until reach a thick puree; there are other version with saffron that gives it a yellow color. Meat gets crushed until reduced to almost invisible wires. It can be served plain or with sugar and cinnamon is often consumed for breakfast… a kind of porridge but richer and caloric.

Generally shops selling ash-e reshteh also sell halim, dedicated exclusively to preparing these dishes, having no more options. Many of these shops do not even have space for dining inside, being only for take-away.

ash-e reshteh. Masuleh
ash-e reshteh. Masuleh

Best ash-e reshteh. Kashan
Best ash-e reshteh. Kashan

Halim. Masuleh
Halim. Masuleh

Halim. Esfahan
Halim. Esfahan

Turkish food… a vegetarian approach!

At the first days words like borek, pide, dondurma, donner, baklava, lokum, gozleme, ayran… sound strange and confusing, but gradually they will become associated with delicious flavors, tasty meals and sweet pastries.

Definitely the Turkish cuisine is far from be vegetarian “friendly” as most of the dishes are dominated by meat, with the smell of the kebab, grilled minced meat served in bread, spreading thought the streets… but with it isn’t so difficult as it look like at the first sight, offering a wide range of vegetarian options  and after two weeks the Turkish cuisine left a delicious memory!!!

But the vast territory of Turkey, from the Mediterranean to the Black Sea, from Europe to Asia, hosting various ethnic groups and absorbing influences of different empires that have passed here, result in a rich and diverse gastronomy, where a short time cannot do justice.

The Kuru Fasulye, one of the few traditional Turkish dishes that are vegetarian, made with bean stewed in slightly spicy sauce and served with rice. Often yogurt serves as a side dish at Turkish meals. In a country where alcohol is not very frequent, the yran is usual presence at meals; a drink made of fermented milk with a taste similar to yogurt that sometimes can have a salty taste. It is sold in pack in supermarkets and shops but in traditional restaurants comes in vats where the yran circulates and is kept fresh, bringing soft foam when it is served.

Dairy products are a strong presence in Turkish cuisine, such as yogurt and yran, but is the cheese that stands out, not only by the wide variety of flavours, textures and shapes.

The cheese is traditionally served for breakfast, as well as the olives, which are available in a wide variety.

The borek is also consumed in the morning, but can be found throughout the day at shops that typically engaged in the production and sale of snacks, like borek and pide, a kind of pizza based on a single ingredient: beef, spinach, cheese …

The borek consists of a succession of filo dough layers, stuffed with cheese, forming a roll that is cooked in the oven. Although delicious, this option is quite greasy. Another variant is a borek is similar to lasagna layers, piled on a tray and stuffed with salty cheese, or sometimes spinach or meat.

The borek as the pide were the best options in terms of light meals for vegetarians in Turkey. However, there are many restaurants, especially in Istanbul, serving meals ready made with a large diversity of food, where is always possible to have a meal based on a combination of different dishes.

Çorbası cannot be unnoticed: a traditional soup, which is available at most of the restaurants. There some places specialised in this type of meal that is always served with bread. The most common is the lentil soup, which can present different aspects of the orange to more brown tones, depending on the type of lentil used.

The gozleme is a similar to a thicker crepe, stuffed with cheese, and sometimes spinach or meat. It is a bit all over the place and can serve as a meal or as a snack between meals. Made traditionally in a metal plate heated by fire, but that can also be cooked in a frying pan.

Sweets….

Pastries in Turkish, Pastanesi, are one of the first things that catch the eye upon arrival in Istanbul, that also selling bread but focused mainly on sweets from cakes, cookies, puddings… and the famous baklava: sweet made with filo dough, soaked in a sugar syrup or honey and stuffed with different kinds of nuts like almonds, pistachio and walnuts. Also popular is the lokum, sweet with a texture that resembles gelatine but consistent, which takes the form of rolls that are trim and covered with sugar powder. No doubt that honey and nuts are a common dominator the Turkish pastry, which shows elaborate and intense.

the amazing turkish bread!

As all over the world, the bread plays an important rule in Turkish gastronomy, presented in many different forms, from rings, to flattened rolls of different thickness, loafs… in a great variety and richness of flavors.

The most popular, the simit, and sell in the Istanbul streets, has a shape of a ring with sesame or sunflower seeds on top.

tea or coffee?!?!?

Being a vast country with a great mix of cultures, Turkey, offers a wide variety of food that was not possible to know in such a short travel time. Yet topic on Turkish cuisine cannot be complete without reference to coffee and tea.

The traditional Turkish coffee, resulting from a very fine grinding to which is added boiling water and then is taken to the fire, but without letting the mixture to boil. Is served in small cups and drink slowly savoring the smooth coffee taste. In the bottom of the cup, are the dregs, forming a thick, dark paste, which second tradition can reveal the “secrets” of the future; this requires turning the cup on the saucer and let the coffee remains cool down and trickle, leaving a trail in the cup which is then interpreted by who is instructed in this “science”.

But it’s the tea, here called chai, that is definitively elected as national drink and is drunk in the morning as well as throughout the day… as justification for a break in the working day, for a gathering of friends, a pause to relax.

And here in Turkey we can even speak of the tea cult, considering the way it is prepared and served, always in small glass cups. Like other countries such as Russia and Iran, the preparation of tea is often made in somovar consisting of a container placed over the fire, to heat the water until boiling; on top of samovar is placed a pot, where the tea is prepared, mixing the leaves with boiling water, were must rest for a few minutes. A small amount of this tea is poured into the cups, and then added hot water, which is kept warm in somovar base.

Definitively Turkish gastronomy is rich, with a wide variety of ingredients, delicious bread and amazing sweets.

 

uma das muitas variantes da baklava, um doce feito com massa filo, embebida num xarope de açúcar ou mel e recheada com diverso tipos de frutos secos como amêndoa, pistácio e nozes
one of the many variants of baklava, a sweet made with filo dough, soaked in sugar syrup or honey and stuffed with different kinds of nuts like almonds, pistachio and walnuts

baklava, numa outra variante recheada de pistácio
baklava, stuffed in another variant of pistachio

Hafiz Mustafa, uma loja centenária de 1864, especializada em baklava
Hafiz Mustafa, a century-old store in 1864 at the center of Istanbul, specialized in baklava and Lukum

Cheese is a constant presence in the Turkish cuisine, lying in dozens of variants
Cheese is a constant presence in the Turkish cuisine, lying in dozens of variants

 

Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, marca de café que é uma referência na Turquia; pode ser encontrada em supermercados um pouco por todo o país, mas é em Istanbul, junto ao Spice Bazar que se encontra uma loja onde se faz a moagem e a embalagem do café, numa pequena área onde trabalham freneticamente uma dúzia de empregados tentando atender as dezenas de pessoas que constantemente fazem fila junto às duas janelas que servem de balção de venda
Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, coffee brand that is a reference in Turkey; can be found in supermarkets all over the country, but is in Istanbul, near the Spice Bazaar which is a store where you do the grinding and packaging of coffee, a small area where they work frantically a dozen employees trying to meet dozens of people who constantly line up next to two windows

casa de chá em Erzurum, onde o samovar ocupa o centro da mesa e de onde é servido o chá.
Traditional tea-shop in Erzurum, where the samovar occupies the center of the table and where they served tea

forma tradicional de cozinhar o gozleme, numa chapa metálica sobre fogo
traditional way of cooking gozleme, on a metal plate over the fire

gozleme recheado de queijo e espinafres
gozleme stuffed with cheese and spinach

Kuru Fasulye um prato tradicional, um dos poucos pratos que é vegetariano
Kuru fasulye a traditional dish, one of the few traditional Turkish dishes that are vegetarian: beans served with rice, yogurt and cabbage pickle.

lokum
Lokum
Pastanesi, que vende pão e pastelaria
Attractive pastries, “pastanesi” in Turkish, with delicious cakes, cookies, pudings and where you can also find a big variety of bread.

pide, uma espécie de pizza de forma oval que pode ser recheada com queijo, espinafres, ovo e carne
pide, a kind of oval shaped pizza that can be stuffed with cheese, spinach, egg and meat

sütlaç (rice pudding) um pudim à base de leite com arroz, cozinhado no forno e servido com topping de pistácio e amêndoa. Encontra-se nas pastelarias e lojas de doces mas este foi “descoberto” num vendedor ambulante junta a Galata Tower em Instanbul
sütlaç (rice pudding) milk based pudding with rice, cooked in the oven and served with pistachio and almond topping. It is found in bakeries and candy stores but this was “discovered” a street vendor joins the Galata Tower in Istanbul

yran, bebida à base de leite fermentado, com sabor semelhante a iogurte e que pode ser por vezes ter um paladar salgado
Yran drink made with fermented milk, with a yogurt flavour and salted

Turkish Coffee servido em pequenas chávenas
Turkish Coffee serve in small cups

simit, um dos pães mais populares na Turquia
Simit, one of the most popular breads in Turkey, taty and with a good price that can be found in bakeries as also in the streets of Istanbul

pequeno-almoço Turco onde pão, tomate, azeitonas, pepino, ovos, e uma grande variedade de queijos estão sempre presentes. A isto acrescenta-se compotas e mel
Turkish breakfast where bread, tomato, olives, cucumber, eggs, and a variety of cheeses are always present; to this it added jam and honey
  • « Go to Previous Page
  • Page 1
  • Page 2
  • Page 3

Footer

search

Tags

Arugam Bay Assam Bali Border Crossing Borneo Cappadocia Colombo Dambulla Esfahan Fes Food Gilis Hiking Hikkaduwa hokkaido Istanbul Itinerary Jakarta Java Kandy Kashan Kataragama Kumano Kodo Lombok Meghalaya Meknes Mekong Nagaland Natural Park Nongriat Northeast States Ouarzazate Sarawak Shiraz Sichuan Province Sumatra Tabriz Tehran transportation Varanasi Visa Yangon Yazd Yogyakarta Yunnan Province

I’m Catarina, a wanderer from Lisbon, Portugal… or a backpack traveller with a camera!

Every word and photo here comes from my own journey — the places I’ve stayed, the meals I’ve enjoyed, and the routes I’ve taken. I travel independently and share it all without sponsors or ads, so what you read is real and unfiltered.

If you’ve found my blog helpful or inspiring, consider supporting it with a small contribution. Every donation helps me keep this project alive and free for everyone who loves exploring the world.

Thank you for helping me keep the journey going!

BUY ME A COFFEE

Categories

Recent Posts:

  • How to go from Hualien to Dulan Beach
  • Taroko Gorge: between marble cliffs and emerald rivers
  • Hualien: a dull gateway to Taroko Gorge
  • Taiwan: Itinerary for an 16 day trip
  • Vietnam: Itinerary
  • 3 months in India: Kolkata, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Goa and Kerala
  • Backpacking Turkey in 24 Days: itinerary & costs
  • English
  • Português

Copyright © 2025 · Stepping Out Of Babylon on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in