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Shangri-lá (Zhongdian)

from Shangri-lá to Dao Cheng…by bus

(English version from the text posted in Jun/2014)

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308 kilometers and 11 hours of bus separate these two villages near the border with the so-called Autonomous Region of Tibet: Shangri-la, in the Yunnan Province, and Dao Cheng in Sichuan Province.

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Although since the mid-eighteenth century Tibet was under the administration of the Emperor of China, it was only in 1950, when occupied by the People’s Liberation Army, that it became part of China, with the majority of its territory on Autonomous Region of Tibet. The remaining area was then divided by the nearby provinces of Qinghai, Gansu, Sichuan and Yunnan.

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Given the difficulty of traveling in the Tibet Autonomous Region, which requires specific authorization and obliges to travel in groups, which inevitably push foreigners to travel agencies, that increase significantly the cost of the trip, it gets too expensive to visit Tibet for a backpacker budget. The best option for those who want to know what remains of Tibetan culture and to enjoy the remarkable landscapes of the Tibetan plateau is to visit the villages located nearby the Autonomous Region of Tibet border, where the easiest access is made by the provinces of Sichuan and Yunnan.

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Alternatively, the region of Ladakh, in the far north of India, is also another way to get close to Tibet. In Kathmandu, Nepal, and in the state of Himachal Pradesh in northern India, it is possible to have contact with this culture due to the presence of a large number of Tibetan refugees, including the Dalai Lama in Dharamsala district, precisely at McLeod Ganj village.

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The bus ride, in spite of the poor road conditions, where part of the beaten path, crossing the mountain chain of Meili Xue Shan, also called Mainri Snow Mountains, climbing high passages and descending to the valleys to cross rivers, with the road winding up the steep slopes, offers breathtaking landscapes.

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On the way out of Shangri-la, the landscape is dominated by the green of the pines covering almost every slope of the mountains, except for the highest peaks where the rigor of winter still leaves traces of snow covering these landscapes. In the valleys run streams and rivers whose low level of water reveals a rug formed by stones, rounded by the passages of the icy waters.

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Leaving behind small settlements surrounded by modest agricultural fields, arranged along the fertile banks of water lines, where yaks and wild horses graze, we start to go up the steep slopes. Increasingly the landscape gets more desert, with the human presence disappearing almost completely. The abrupt gray cliffs seem to touch the white of the clouds that decorate the blue sky.

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The settlements lying along the road, which are no more than a few houses scattered along the road, feature a characteristic Tibetan architecture, with buildings consisting of three thick stone walls forming a rectangle, within which are built With aid of robust wooden trunks the habitation, almost always of two floors; Whose main facade is entirely wood; The doors and windows are framed by elaborate and colorful designs painted in wood carved in intricate geometric shapes that stand out in the white of the walls.

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As you enter Sichuan Province, the houses acquire other characteristics, the outer walls being entirely built of stone, with the door and window decorations giving way to a black trapeze frame, making these dwellings more solid and Dark, feeling enhanced by the gray stone walls that at cost stand out from the dry, dusty landscape.

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Crossing the highest points, and moving North, the landscape grows more and more arid, with the forest giving way to sandy and rocky slopes of gray and brownish colors, giving the landscape a wild and inhospitable tone… the typical Tibetan plateau landscape!

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...de Shangri-lá a Dao Cheng
… from Shangri-lá to Dao Cheng

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...de Shangri-lá a Dao Cheng
… from Shangri-lá to Dao Cheng

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paragem para almoço... de Shangri-lá a Dao Cheng
lunch break

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...de Shangri-lá a Dao Cheng
… from Shangri-lá to Dao Cheng

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...de Shangri-lá a Dao Cheng
… from Shangri-lá to Dao Cheng

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...de Shangri-lá a Dao Cheng
… from Shangri-lá to Dao Cheng

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bus ... de Shangri-lá a Dao Cheng
bus … from Shangri-lá to Dao Cheng

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...de Shangri-lá a Dao Cheng
… from Shangri-lá to Dao Cheng

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...de Shangri-lá a Dao Cheng
… from Shangri-lá to Dao Cheng

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...de Shangri-lá a Dao Cheng
… from Shangri-lá to Dao Cheng

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...de Shangri-lá a Dao Cheng
… from Shangri-lá to Dao Cheng

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...de Shangri-lá a Dao Cheng
… from Shangri-lá to Dao Cheng

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Note: photos taken from inside the bus

Shangri-lá (Zhongdian)… reality or fiction?

(English version from the text posted in Jun/2014)

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The city, where clearly dominates the Tibetan culture, was in its origins named Gyeltang or Gyalthang but changed to Zhongdian under Chinese influence since the 50’s. But it was when it was recognised its tourist potential, with the old zone formed by an intricate and narrow set of streets, with its houses showing the traditional architecture of the region, in stone and richly carved wood that starts to be called Shangri-la. The name came from a novel from the British writer James Hilton, that apparently placed the story in this city, conferring to this place a mystical atmosphere, synonymous with paradise.

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On arrival, after the short bus trip from the bus terminal to the old part of the city, Shangri-la show a completely desolate scenery, with a big area damaged by a fire that in January of this year destroyed part of the old city. The landscape is now occupied by the scorched debris and by the machines and trucks that clean and rebuilds the old city, giving to the place an apocalyptic atmosphere.

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In spite of this initial vision, the stay in Shangri-la (Zhongdian) was pleasant, with the days spent between visits to the temple that dominates the old part of the city, next to which there is a gigantic prayer wheel. The gold that decorates the prayer wheel stands out among the grove that covers the modest hill. Strolling through the streets of the old city and making some inroads into the modern part of the city, of Chinese layout and architecture, but where you can find a strong presence of people from different ethnic groups, proudly wearing their traditional costumes often combined with western clothing.

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The negative impression from the first sight was dissipating, and the fact that the fire destroyed part of the city’s patrimony also caused it to remove the commercial and excessively touristy atmosphere that previously existed, and that somewhat de-characterizes the cities of Dalí and Lijiang, visited before.

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Here you can begin to feel the effects of altitude… insomnia, headaches, shortness of breath, and heart beating each time you climb a ladder or a steeper slope.

 

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parte antiga da cidade destruída por um incêndio no inicio deste ano, oferendo uma imagem desolada de Shangri-lá
old part of  Shangri-lá after the fire

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Parte antiga de Shangri-lá (Zhongdian)
 Shangri-lá (Zhongdian) old town

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Shangri-lá (Zhongdian)
Shangri-lá (Zhongdian)

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Gigantesca Roda de Orações situada na colina junto da praça central, onde se encontram mais dois templos budistas, um de arquitectura tibetana e outro, mais moderno de arquitectura chinesa
Prayer Wheel

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Shangri-lá (Zhongdian)
Shangri-lá (Zhongdian)

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Shangri-lá (Zhongdian)
Shangri-lá (Zhongdian)

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Roda de orações e templo budista que encimam a pequena colina à volta da qual se desenvolve cidade antiga de Shangri-lá (Zhongdian)
Prayer wheel and Buddhist temple at Shangri-lá (Zhongdian)

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Mercado de Zhongdian
Zhongdian market

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Mercado de Zhongdian
cooking dumplins at Zhongdian market

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Stupa situada num dos cruzamentos da cidade poupados ao incêndio, mas cuja área envolvente foi praticamente destruida
Stupa in on town

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Templo budista localizado numa colina a sul de Shangri-lá, um pouco mais afastada do centro da cidade que é conhecido por “templo das galinhas” visto situar-se numa zona mais rural
Buddhist temple called “chicken temple”

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Rodas de orações no exterior do “templo das galinhas” em Shangri-lá
Prayer whell from the “chicken temple” in Shangri-lá

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
“chicken temple” in Shangri-lá

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“templo das galinhas” em Shangri-lá
“chicken temple” in Shangri-lá

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“templo das galinhas” em Shangri-lá
“chicken temple” in Shangri-lá

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documentos contendo escritos sagrados que são geralmente envolvidos em panos e que se encontram frequentemente nos mosteiros e nos templos budistas
Buddhist holy scripts

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Pinturas em estilo “tankha” com informação relacionada com a medicina tradicional tibetana que recorre ao uso de plantas e minerais
“tankha” paitings

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Templo no museu dedicado à cultura Tibetana existente no centro de Shangri-lá
Tibetan culture Museum in Shangri-lá

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Population: 120.000

Elevation: 3270 m

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