Stepping out of Babylon

Kataragama and the “puja”

Kataragama with Sri Pada are both important places of pilgrimage for Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims. However, Kataragama seems to be more popular among the Hindu population, largely made up of Tamil ethnic group.

The Ella trip to Kataragama took almost three hours, with the road winding along the valley, with dangerous descents, becoming flatter as you walk south toward Tissamaharama. Soon the landscape changed from forest to extensive rice fields, that at this time of year (January) are of an intense green. The heat of the afternoon made the short bus ride seem longer, with the tropical humidity mix with the sweat, letting the skin moist and sticky.

But at about five in the afternoon, after resting the bus ride, is the ideal time for a quiet walk through the streets toward the Temple Park, a wide forested area where the several temples concentrate: a Hindu temple, a Buddhist stupa and a Muslim mosque. Along the way, increase the number of shops selling religious articles and offerings for the puja, indicating that we are near the entrance.

After passing a small river, where some pilgrims bathe following religious rites, we walked through an avenue where cows wander slowly between pilgrims carrying trays of fruit decorated with plastic ornaments, creating a colorful scene toward the temple. Behind stays the almost deserted mosque in a mostly Hindu area.

Hindu Puja offerings. Kataragama. — Hindu Puja offerings. Kataragama

Kataragama_DSC_7474 — Temple Park. Kataragama

Passing the entrance gate, where the shoes must stay outside guarded a zealous staff, is a walled enclosure with temples and other buildings and at the center has the Maha Devale, a small Hindu temple unable to accommodate the hundreds of people here heads for 6 hours, at which time begins puja.

Around other temples also attract devotees who also carry offerings and performing prayers. But it is around the bodhi tree, the same species of the tree where Buddha attained enlightenment and considered sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists, which families gather praying, meditating or reading sacred texts while children run and play losing laughter and shouts that break the solemn atmosphere of the place.

But while the puja doesn’t start is the time to walk down a long avenue until the end of the park toward Kirivehra, a Buddhist temple-shaped stupa, white immaculate painted. Along the way small kiosks selling lotus flowers, ghee (clarified butter, ie cleared of traces of water or impurities) and incense that pilgrims use as offerings, with ghee to serve to keep lit lamps that as the sun goes down on the horizon offer a higher brightness, in contrast with the sky that is becoming dark.

Kirivehara Stupa. Temple Park. Kataragama

But back Maha Devale which has already started the puja, a small crowd of pilgrims, visitors and tourists, if gathering at the three temple entrances, trying to observe the puja ritual that takes place inside where only one dozen of people has space to stand. Suddenly, after a prolonged silence that allows you to enjoy the calm and serenity of the place, already shrouded in darkness, begin the bells start to ring inside the temple, which along a big and heavy bell that is outside, forming a compact mass of sound, hysterical and aggressive, breaking the stillness of place, but whose devotees seem to be indifferent.

Kataragama_Maha Devale_DSC_7415 — Maha Devale. Kataragama

The stay in Kataragama offered a different view of Sri Lanka, away from the tour groups, the boutique hotels, the world heritage tag, the inflated prices, the international food… here beyond the usual friendliness and smiling faces, we are received with warm and sincere smiles that blend some curiosity, a humble and relaxed atmosphere that makes us feel genuinely welcome.

According to the guidebooks, it is better to stay in Tissamaharama and visit Kataragama on a day-trip, and this is the option followed by almost everyone, as in the evening after the puja there were more foreigners in town. But it is worth staying, at least, one night in Kataragama, enjoying the quietness of the streets at dawn, where the few people move without hurry, but with time and availability for a short chat and a friendly smile. The streets are quiet, away from the usual mess of traffic or beeps, and even the national road that crosses Kataragama, the Tissa Road, is away from the usual movement and bustle of others.

Spending the night at Kataragama, gave an opportunity to walk around the city streets and the park next to the temples, lighted by the soft light of dawn, when the air is still fresh and you can see the awaking of town… a place that looks sleepy until puja time, where it get busy.

Where to stay in Kataragama:

Right next to Kataragama bus terminal, it is not even necessary to cross the Tissa Road, is the Lake House Pilgrim Rest. Despite the tablet have an indication Lake House Resort, the place has nothing fancy, offering reasonably priced and cheaper than other places marked on tourist guides as budget options. According to the receipt, this property belongs to “The Associated Newspapers of Ceylan, Ltd.”, is designed for pilgrims but is open to all visitors.

double room with bathroom: 900 LKR (no hot water, but the temperatures in this region, even in January are very warm).

No wi-fi

An annex building, more modern, are the most sophisticated rooms with air conditioning, wi-fi and other amenities.

The location is great and quiet, with some rooms with a balcony overlooking a sea of green formed by rice fields.

The staff speaks little English.

Address: Pussadewa Mawatha (right next to the Kataragama bus terminal)

Lake House Pilgrim Rest (Lake House Resort). Kataragama

Room view from Lake House Pilgrim Rest (Lake House Resort). Kataragama

Where to eat in Kataragama:

It is not difficult to find local food restaurants, but who is looking for international food does not have many chances in Kataragama, with maybe the exception of some fancy hotels.

By indication of local people, the lunch was at Ruhunu Bakery and Hotel that despite the hotel name only serves food. Serves a competent rice and curry, whose vegetarian option costs 80 LKR, and is available from the beginning of the day. In addition, some are also many pastry snacks. It is not easy to communicate in English with the menu and the prices posted on the walls in Sinhalese.

Address: Abhaya Mawatha, Kataragama, Hatton, Kandy

Along the central streets of the small and concentrated Kataragama, there are more restaurants also serving rice and curry, rotis, kotus, hoppers, etc… with the choices changing according to the time of day. They are also groceries selling delicious coconuts, whose existing variety in Sri Lanka called King Coconut, with yellow skin, very juicy and flavorful, and sweeter than the usual green coconut shell.

As dinner is hard to find rice and curry, Kataragama offered the chance to try the hoppers (also known in other countries by apam) are a kind of pancakes made from rice flour and coconut milk. In Sri Lanka the hoppers can be eaten at breakfast or in the evening as a meal, with or without egg, being soaked and small bowls of spicy curries.

Transport in Kataragama:

The town is small and can be covered on foot, and from the bus terminal to the main entrance of the complex formed by the various temples is not more than 5-10 minute walking.

From the quiet of Kataragama bus Terminal, depart frequently buses to Tissamaharama, Buttala, Wellawaya, Matara, etc …

Population: 21,000

Altitude: 48 meters

Ella

Ella is a small town that emerges almost at the end of the railway line that runs through the Hill Country, a mountain area located in the center-south of the island of Sri Lanka. Along the way, from Kandy to Ella, the train meanders through hill dominated by tea plantations, a green but monotonous landscape, punctuated here and there by small clusters of houses, mostly belonging to one of the dozens of tea plantations, the Tea Estate, that keep the colonial philosophy of boarding workers and family.

Along the way are the most popular stations among foreign visitors, as Nanu Oya to visit Nuwara Eliya, a relic of British colonialism, Haputale near the Horton Plains National Park and World’s End, two natural parks that provide good hikes in the mountains. Any of these destinations was out the route of this visit Sri Lanka; Nuwara Eliya by having the reputation for being hard to find budget accommodation, with most lodgings in the cottage and heritage hotels; the walks through nature parks imply a $15 entry fee, higher than the daily budget for a backpacker traveling through Sri Lanka.

So the best solution to avoid this highly touristic itinerary, was the humble but peaceful train trip, especially the section between Haputale and Ella, which provided magnificent landscapes illuminated by the calm light of the down, that here comes early, with the sun hiding behind the mountains, leaving room for the fresh mountain air that forcing to dress one more layer of clothing.

Ella at first glance little has attractive because it is no more than a set of buildings along the national road, with one or two more streets. However, the site offers in January a mild climate with sunny days, not too hot, with cool but not freezing nights.

The high number of guest houses and homestays offers rooms for all budgets, the small size of the village, and the quiet and informal atmosphere makes Ella an attractive destination for a couple days of rest, after Adam’s Peak hike.

Excelling in Ella landscape is called Ella Gap, a valley that forms a kind of canyon that descends steeply towards the southern plains of Sri Lanka, by a winding road between steep slopes. Making this journey toward the south, is notorious the abrupt change of the climate just as you arrive at the next town, Wellawaya, leaving behind the fresh mountain air to soak in the hot and humid tropical climate.

Ella left a memory of a peaceful and relaxing days in a tasteless village; but above all the strong memory of delicious food, with Ella unexpectedly provide the best rice and curry, tasted during the 30 days stay in Sri Lanka … where wasn’t a day without rice and curry !!!!

Where to stay in Ella:

Ella has many accommodation options, one or the other next to the train station, some along the national road (which by the way is not very noisy); but the majority is spread along the slopes around the village, at a walking distance from the train station of from the bus stop, that is in the middle of Ella.

The wide balcony, a view of the Ella Gap and an atmosphere that takes us to the past, not only by the architecture of the house, an old mansion but also by the decor and furniture, in a mix of antique and kitsch, were decisive in the choice of Rock View Guest House. It’s located very near the center of Ella, less than 10 minutes walking from the train station, near the main road, but given the high position you’ll not disturb by the traffic noise. There are several rooms in different buildings: some are more modern but others still maintain an attractive and charming patina.

Rock View Guest House

double room with bathroom: 3000 LKR

Free Wi-fi

http://rockviewella.com/

Where to eat in Ella:

By attracting much tourism due to the peaceful environment that chooses to remain a few days in Ella, there are plenty of options in terms of restoration, from traditional rotis and kotus, to the most sophisticated restaurants with international cuisine, pizzerias, cafes…

Prices are inflated even in for local food, with dishes adapted to western taste, away from excessive spicy food by which Sri Lanka is famous. It is not easy to find a restaurant that serves an authentic rice and curry, but by chance, the attention was for a small grocery store with a placard at the entrance advertised buffet of rice and curry: Latha Rice Shop.

Serving delicious curries (pumpkin, jackfruit, green beans, bananas, etc…) the usual pol sambol (a spicy seasoning to coconut base) or gotukola sambol (one raw mixture of a green leaf vegetable with coconut and chilli), the always present dhal (lentils), two varieties of rice (white and red) and a lot of sympathy make this hidden location a choice among the local population. The best rice and curry experienced during a month in Sri Lanka. Very spicy!

The meal costs 200 LKR with a refill.

Address: on the right side of Passara Road, a bit up after a modern and shiny bulding

Apparently Ella is famous for curd and honey, which is no more than yogurt drizzled with honey, which in fact is not honey but treacle. It can be found in almost all restaurants. One traditional stall, now converted into a restaurant, the Curd Shop, is one of the places where you can try this delicious combination. Among several options, the choice fell to curd and honey with rice, which makes it a good choice for breakfast.

Apparently Ella is famous also for the curd with honey, that in fact is not honey but a sugar syrup. Here was served with rice that make a good option for breakfast

Train from Hatton to Ella:

The train trip from to Ella takes close to four hours, and can be hard to find a seat, at least in the beginning of the journey, if you are taking the first train of the day. However after Nanu Oya, many passengers get out, leaving the train quieter and make it easy to find a seat.

Ella station is less than 10 minutes from the center of the village, a distance easily covered on foot.

Train ticket: 160 LKR (2nd class)

Direct Bus from Ella to Kataragama:

At the junction between the main road and spent Road (the only two roads in Ella) is a tourist information stall where you can get some information about buses and trains schedules for Ella. The Curd Shop directly opposite is also a good source of information.

So for those who want to go to Kataragama (direct bus): 13.00h, 14.00h, 14.45h, 15.30h

The journey takes 2.40h (with a 15-minute break for lunch). You should arrive earlier to the bus stop because the bus doesn’t always respect the departure time: for example, 13h left at 12.55h.

Bus Ticket: 166 LKR

Bus Kandy to Kataragama, that stops in Ella

Direct bus from Ella to Tissamaharama (bound for Matara):

8.40h, 9.20h, 11.00h, 12.00h, 14.45h, 15.30h, 16.40h

The bus number 10, which makes the Kandy-Kataragama connection goes through Tissamaharama (Tissa) before reaching Kataragama, at the times indicated above (13.00h, 14.00h, 14.45h, 15.30h) are also valid for those routes Yala National Park.

For those making the trip to Tissamaharama and Kataragama in the morning outside this schedule, can take one of the several buses passing through the center of Ella, toward the south to the village of Wellawaya. In Wellawaya is necessary to change from bus to the desired destination, which may require an intermediate bus exchange.

There isn’t a proper bus stop at Ella. Buses heading north stop in front of Curd Shop. For those who follow south to stop is about 10 meters down the intersection with Pasara Road, in front of a hotel.

Ella population: 44,500

Ella altitude: 1041 m

Sri Pada… chasing Buddha’s footprint

With about 2243 meters high Adam’s Peak is not the highest point of Sri Lanka island, but is somewhat one of the most sacred, not only for Buddhists that found here the footprint of Buddha and call this place Sri Pada, as for the Hindu with the footprint of Shiva and for Muslims and Christians the trail left by Adam.

Apparently on the top of the hill is a depression in the rock and with some imagination can be considered a giant foot, which mixed with some religious devotion make this mountain one of the main pilgrimage sites in Sri Lanka.

The favorable season for the pilgrimage is from December (Unduwap poya*) and May (Wesak poya*) with January and February being the best months to climb, as they provide better visibility and more stable climate, without risk of rain. However at this altitude, the temperature drops a lot during the night when it is more common pilgrim climbing 1400 meters separating Dalhousie from the summit. During the May and October months is not recommended to climb Adam’s Peak because the mountain is shrouded in clouds most of the time and the weather is unstable.

During the pilgrimage season over 20,000 people go up Adam’s Peak during the weekends, what makes these days not recommended for who come here for the hike and don’t want to spend hours to make the ascent… but by the lack of information, the chosen day happened on a Friday, with the aggravating circumstance of being a longer weekend due to another religious holiday, the Thai Pongal day celebrated by the Tamil community, and also a national holiday. So the day chosen to make the climb was probably the busiest day of the pilgrimage season.

The walk began promptly at two in the morning, with 4 hours to quietly make the climb (that same people says can be done in three hours) in order to reach the summit at sunrise and so be able to watch the show that has a bit of mysticism where, for few moments, appears reflected on the opposite slope a shadow with a perfect triangular form, that have nothing to do with the peak shape, but that probably results from an optical effect caused by the scattering of light at sunrise mixed with the effect of altitude… but which produces a single phenomenon.

The beginning of the trail is very easy with the ascent to be made by small groups of ramps or steps but where the cold and the darkness makes this a monotonous way. However, the route is fairly light by a few lamps but mainly by shops arranged along the way, selling religious items, warm clothing, toys, candies and others serving tea and food, 24 hours a day. Prices will increase as you go up, which is reasonable fair as everything from rice, lentils, bottled water, soft drinks, vegetables, gas cylinders, etc… have to be carried by porters up the hill, that receive at the best 1500 rupees in case of delivering things on the topmost restaurant, which should take between go and come back all day, with results in less than 10 euros per day of hard and seasonal work.

After making the first third of the way, the trail so far wide begins to narrow and to be totally made by stairs, often occupied by pilgrims who take the opportunity to rest from the effort, which delays a bit the movement of other visitors, forced to slow down the speed.

And at a slower pace, when the ego is no longer powered by the rapid rise, the pride of good physical shape and by competition to reach quickly the top, arises space to be aware of what surrounds us. Time to observe the devotion that brings thousands of people to do this climbing, not being too hard is not easy, especially for those who do it with children on his lap or for elderly people, that slowly and with many stops walk with determination. It is touching to see families of three generations walking at the pace of the slowest, mothers breastfeed babies during a break on the steps, fathers carrying children asleep in their arms and observe as teenager support the tired steps of grandparents.

The walk was proceeding smoothly until the approach to the last third of the way, when the stairs become narrower, and the high number of pilgrims which gathered with some tourists, made the climb impossible, with the path blocked by people, that almost didn’t let space for who made the descent. So close to the summit was not the time to give up, and as there were still two hours to the sunrise, remained no alternative but to join the crowd and walking up the stairs at very-very slow pace. The hours passed slowly in the cold to blight the hopes and the lack of movement to leave the body chilled with cold air blowing on the unprotected side of the mountain.

The sun rose in a magnificent spectacle of diaphanous light as if a cloak of darkness was slowly being removed revealing the landscape of colors that were slowly gaining strength. But the top was still far and more than two hours after the dawn the top, where you will find the Buddha’s footprint was still far from being achieved. So having been lost sight of the optical effect of the shadow who comes up with the sunrise, and without the religious motivation of pilgrims, whom the wait is not too much to reach that sacred site, fatigue won and at 8 o’clock it was time to start the descent.

Despite some disappointment for not having reached the top, the descent made at the soft morning light revealed a stunning landscape of pristine vegetation with no trace of human presence, lakes occupying the bottom of the valleys, gentle slopes where the tea plantations form a wavy carpet, and a sea of green that fills the eyes, broken here and there by brown rust of granitic rocks that seem to radiate glow when exposed to the first rays of sun.

Descent after the sun rise. Sri Pada path

Dalhousie that jut exists because of the pilgrims is no more than a street along which line up few houses, guest houses, restaurants and many candy stalls, all selling almost the same sweet stuff. In the middle of the village in a kind of bus terminal, stops the buses that connect Dalhousie and Hatton, the nearest railways station. It’s in Dalhousie that begins the trail that leads to the mountain ridge, and where most people stay overnight, although many people arrive by bus and starts immediately the ascent, leaving the site as soon as they return back to Dalhousie.

* Poya: are holy days according to the Buddhist calendar that coincides with the full moon. So every month in Sri Lanka has a holiday, were most of the shops as well as official services (banks, post office, etc.) are close.

Meteorology in Adam’s Peak:

http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Adams-Peak/forecasts/2243

What you need to climb Adam’s Peak:

Basically, not much. Comfortable cloths that keep you warm during the low temperatures of the night that on the top mix with a unpleasant chill wind. On the way down little by little you need to get ride of some layers of cloths and probably end in a t’shirt.

Most of the foreigners use hiking shoes but you can do it with good sandals, but during the evening ib better put socks. Most of the local people do it with sandals, or even more frequently flip-flop, with many people do it barefoot despite the cold temperatures.

Shortcut to Sri Pada (Adam’s Peak):

In the days of higher affluence is better to use an alternative way to get to Adam’s Peak summit. Who used this “shortcut” made it in time to see the sunrise, having started the route also at 2 o’clock in the morning.

After you go about two-thirds of the track is a junction with a Buddha statue. On the right side starts a track that at night requires the use of a flashlight, because the path is irregular with rocks and tree roots. At the end of this trail comes to a cemented path that leads to other stairs that also access the top of Adam’s Peak, but not so busy.

beginning of the "alternative" path to Sri Pada — beginning of the “alternative” path to Sri Pada

"alternative" path to Sri Pada — “alternative” path to Sri Pada

Where to stay in Adam’s Peak (Dalhousie):

When the buse drop you at Dalhousie (last stop) you are in the center of the village. Walking a little backward, you’ll find most of the guesthouses. Walking forward, toward the beginning of the trail you can also find two more guest houses and rooms for rent. Prices are clearly inflated and a small room with only a bed, with shared toilet, reaches 2500 LKR per person.

Walking a bit further, after passing the “Adam’s Peak” sign painted in yellow on the rock, through the row of sweets shops, along Sri Pada Road, you’ll find on your right, after going down some steps, a house that rent rooms: Dilani Ligh House.

The rooms are ultra basic, with only a bed but the price can be negotiated: 1000 LKR for a room for two people. The toilet is shared and is outside the house in a small construction, and the bath must be at open-air, with cold water. But good enough to spend a few hours before starting the hike, leave your luggage safe and get some rest after the walk.

Where to eat in Adam’s Peak (Dalhousie):

Right next to the Dilani Ligh House guest house, at the Sri Pada Road, a restaurant with the same name, that serves from morning until the early afternoon, a simple but pretty good rice and curry, although extremely spicy, for 100 LKR, which helps to recover the energy.

Along the way, you always finds food in the restaurants located along the path, almost until reach the top. Open 24 hours, even without rice and curry are always ready delicious coconut rotis (a kind of savoury pancake made with grated coconut) and other typical snacks of Sri Lanka.

How to get to Adam’s Peak:

Dalhousie is a small village that hardly shows up on the map and Hatton is the nearest town with some infrastructure. Hatton being one of the most important settlements in the tea route in Sri Lanka, is served by rail, by a route that crosses through the “hill country”, which starts in Colombo, pass by Kandy and ends in Bandulla.

Kandy to train Hatton

Train tickets to 1st class are sold out with about 45 days in advance, but can be found in travel agencies, who buy them in advance and then sell them to tourists charging a high commission. However, even at the travel agencies in Kandy is not easy to find tickets because usually these places are reserved for organized tours.

So the alternative is to travel in 2nd or 3rd class where there are no reserved seats.

There is only one train a day that starts in Kandy to Bandulla, and leaves at 3:30 am, making it an unattractive option. All other trains depart from Colombo and reach Kandy already full, making difficult get a place in the train in the days of greater affluence as weekends and holidays. The train was late and left the station with greater delay because of the difficulty of placed all passengers, mostly foreigners with big backpacks, on a train that already arrived full to Kandy.

The trip took 2.5 hours, and certainly through an interesting landscape, but as there was no chance of having a seat the best option was to sit in a minimal space on the floor.

Train Ticket: 110 LKR (2nd class)

Hatton to Dalhousie bus

Just off Hatton railway station, stopped on the left side you’ll see the bus (red) bound for Dalhousie, awaiting the arrival of the train passengers, starting as soon as it gets full… which does not take long in the high season.

Bus Ticket: 70 LKR

Next step is a 1:50 hours bus trip to cover the 33 kilometers that separated Hatton from Dalhousie, made by a narrow and winding road between tea plantations from where trees survive from what was once a forest.

The view along the way is stunning but the accelerated driving makes this tedious and prone to carsickness.

The bus terminates in a ground which is the Dalhousie bus terminal which is the center of the village.

Hatton Train Station. Bus ticket to Dalhousie

There are no ATM in Dalhousie; the closest one is at Hatton.

Mirissa and the whales

Taking advantage of the stay in Narigama Beach and to break the routine made from swimming in the warm sea and walk along the beach, a boat ride for whale watching show up as a good option, as the south coast of Sri Lanka is considered one of the best places to observe the Blue Whale, the largest mammal on the planet.

The best time of year for whale watching, not only blue whale but also of other species is from November to April and July to September when this giant remain in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean for feed. But the months of December to March are the ones that provide a more quiet sea, however, it is still easy to get sick with the ripple that is not so smooth.

The boat ride to the favorable place for watching cetaceans takes over an hour to go, but not that far that you can not see the coast. Along the way, a group of dolphins (Spiner dolphins) crossed the boat’s trajectory always offering a lively show.

When the boat arrived at the place and put the engines in slow rotation waiting for some whales to show up, already about one-third of the passenger was sick, not even giving the chance to eat the breakfast provided at the beginning of the trip along with a tea in an unexpected china cup!

Once that was seen one of the characteristic winches breath of the cetaceans, the various boats waiting on site, over ten, speed the engines trying to get the best position to watch the whales, which even considering that the safety rules are being respected may cause some stress to the animal.

However the creature spotted, a blue whale, returned two more to the surface to breathe, between long intervals, always creating a strange feeling of a shiver for being there before such gigantic animal, able to shows an unreal gentleness, each time it comes out to breath or when the tail emerges from the water.

The return, that always looks faster than the outward journey, there was time and “stomach” for the breakfast and to observe a sea turtle swimming in the same direction of the boat and that briefly remained on the surface before diving into the dark waters of the southern coast of Sri Lanka.

The little time spent in Mirissa, once a fishing village and now focuses more on tourism, where the main attraction is the observation of marine animals, whether on boat rides or diving, revealed to be a quiet and laid back place, that keeps the local lifestyle and where people are always willing to receive us with a genuine smile.

Where to stay in Mirissa

There are handfuls of options in terms of accommodation in Mirissa, including many guest houses and homestays that rent rooms. Prices are slightly higher than in Narigama but also Mirissa attracts more people because it has a more lively nightlife, that focuses on a small but nice beach along a bay a bit more sheltered from the swell.

Moon Glow Guest is a homestay, where friendly and very willing owner rents rooms on the ground floor while the rest of the family occupies the top floor. The house is new and is spotlessly clean, with the room with mosquito-net (a must) and a clean and modern shared toilet. It is located on a small side street off the main street that connects the Mirissa beach the harbor; is about 5 minutes walk from the harbor where whale watching boats leave.

double room (with shared toilet): 2000 LKR

Address: Kapparamulla, Mirissa

Contact: 077 3955172, 041 2254901

free wi-fi

_Mirissa_Moon Glow Guest house_DSC_6906 — Moon Glow Guest House. Mirissa

Moon Glow Guest house. Contacts. Mirissa

Where to eat in Mirissa

Along the beach line up many restaurants as also some hotels serving both Sri Lankan food as international food but where the bet is on grilled fish and seafood.

But along the national highway A2 are many local food restaurants, which usually do not serve dinners, but where you can find rice and curry for lunch. For a later meal or a dinner, the options are rotis and kutus.

How to go to Mirissa by bus:

The most economical way to get to Mirissa is by bus, but many people choose to make the journey in a tuk-tuk, which is more comfortable to do the 35 kilometers that separate the two sites and it takes about 1 hour; expect to pay more than 1000 LKR, depending on each one negotiation skills.

If you choose to do the trip by bus you must change bus in Galle Bus Terminal, but that shouldn’t take more than 5 minutes since the frequency is really high during day time.

Bus Narigama – Galle: 35 LKR; 30 minutes

Bus Galle – Mirissa 50 LKR (or 52 LKR); 1 hour

Whale watching tour:

A bit everywhere, even in Hikkaduwa and Narigama, there are ads for excursions to see the whales along the southern coast of Sri Lanka.

At Hikkaduwa, these tours cost 5000 LKR per person and include tuk-tuk ride to Mirissa and the boat trip. The tour starts at 5 a.m. and ends by 12 p.m.

At Mirissa, you can get a better price, with the boat ride costing 4000 LKR.

However, going directly to the harbour, where dock the boats that make this whale watching trips, easily identifiable by the double-deck filled with chairs and benches, and speaking directly with the boat staff you can easily get at least 2000 LKR per person, including breakfast (a small sandwich, boiled egg, pineapple and bananas) and water, as the mandatory lifejacket. On board are also available pills for sea sickness.

However this option being the cheapest it involves spending a night in Mirissa because the boats depart at 7 am, but you need to arrive early at 6 am, that makes it difficult to arrive on time if you came by bus to Mirissa. After the boat ride that can take longer than just the morning, depending on the distance to where the whales can be watched) one just take any bus that passes on the national road towards Galle and then look for another bus towards Hikkaduwa (150 LKR total per person, both ways).

The boat was the Blue Ocean, that limits the number of passengers to about 10 or 12, which means that there´s plenty of room on board, and don’t risk the stability of the vessel when all passengers rush to one side to see and take pictures to the whales.

Whale watching tour: 2000 LKR… and few rupees more for tipping the crew.

Whale watching Tickets and Conditions. Mirissa

Galle and the Fort

Galle is one of the cities with the greatest heritage and history of the southwest coast of Sri Lanka, with its fort built originally by the Portuguese and later taken over and expanded by the Dutch, preserves within its walls many examples of colonial architecture, whether in public buildings, religious or habitation.

With the growth of tourism Galle has turned much of the heritage in upscale hotels, boutique hotels, cafes and restaurants that contribute to keeping most of the buildings in excellent condition. However perceives a certain lack of authenticity, as if we face a postcard rather than a city with its own life and personality.

Through the streets groups tourists wandering attracted by sophisticated shops of souvenirs and crafts, Sinhalese visitors gathering here in family enjoying the bay still water near the fort and school children coming in with their spotless white uniforms. We hear the bells of a church when it passes near a Buddhist stupa, breaking the stillness of the place.

Surrounding the compact stone fortress comes the sea of light tones of a translucent blue, which contrasts with the intense green of the tropical vegetation and the white that covers most of the buildings in Galle Fort. The breeze blowing from the sea has a cooling effect but intensifies the humidity that sticks to the skin.

Outside the fort lies a city that lives at a completely different pace, with the usually disorganized traffic, the beeping of buses and tuk-tuks, the accelerated movement of the people that know where they are going. A few meters from Fort is the Dutch market, a picturesque building that brings together sellers of fruit and vegetables, but where prices are clearly inflated for tourists.

Galle although picturesque and well preserved not aroused great enthusiasm but provided a pleasant walk along the ramparts overlooking the sea.

Where to stay in Galle:

Most accommodations are located inside the Fort walls, but all focused on a top budget tourism and groups that come in organized tours, that makes Galle not an inviting place for a “backpacker” budget.

As the city of Galle, the “new town” shows unattractive the best option is to visit Galle Fort a day-trip. For those who are lodge in one of the southwest coast beaches, like Bentota, Hikkaduwa, Narigama or Mirrisa, Gale is located within a reasonable distance to be made by bus, visited and come back in the same day.

Where to eat in Galle:

Inside the fort, the offer points to sophisticated restaurants and cafes, far more expensive that you can find outside the wall, but of course with other comfort and refinement.

So the best alternative to find a rice and curry is in one of the “new-town” restaurants, with several options lying right next to the bus station or in the side streets, and it isn’t necessary to walk more than 500 meters to find a good rice and curry per 200 LKR.

Right next to the bus terminal are several small shops and stalls selling rotis and the usual variety of deep-fried patties that always serve as a meal if you arrive too late and the rice and curry had already finished.

Go to Dutch Market in search of fruit at local prices does not appear feasible, with sellers accustomed to tourists charging twice the price. Also, near the bus terminal, there are a few fruit sellers where the prices are displayed… usually, the price is not per kilogram, but by the number of pieces of fruit that you can get for 100 LKR, i.e.

Street near Galle Bus Terminal where you can find restaurants, snack stall and fruit vendors

5 apples for 100 rupees but if they are big apples you can only get 3 apples for that price… this is the fruit of sale system in Sri Lanka!

Transport in Galle:

Galle has a railway station and is one of the most important stops on the Colombo-Matara line. However the frequency of trains and the difficulty of reserve a seat, especially on weekends and holidays, makes the train a less attractive option. But despite these disadvantages, the train offers a more calm and relaxing trips, away from pollution, traffic and the constant noise of horns, which all drivers used intensively, including bus drivers. Often trains make tracks away from urban areas and provide the best views of the natural landscape, but do not cover the entire island.

Right across from the train station is the bus terminal, both for long-distance services (for Colombo and other cities) as local nearby villages. The terminal looks at first too confuse by a large number of people, but is quite well organized with signs indicating the destination of each bus. There is also a information desck in the middle of the terminal on the lower level, which provides accurate information about destinations, prices, and schedules.

Bus Galle – Mirrisa: 1 hour, 50 LKR

Bus Galle – (Narigama) Hikkaduwa: 30 minutes, 35 LRK

How to get from Galle to Colombo:

For those on Hikkaduwa, Narigama, Mirissa and other beaches scattered around the southwest coast and plan to go to Colombo, you have several alternatives:

Take one of the many buses that make the journey along the national road A2 Galle-Colombo, but these buses are not “express” ie make multiple stops often picking up passengers outside stops “official”.

The journey takes more than four hours, between dangerous overtaking and infernal honks. It is not guaranteed seating position not sure if she ate the trip at the beginning of the route, for example, Matara and Galle.

There’s also a/c buses (small vehicles with air-conditioning) that also make the journey by the national road A2 as the “normal” buses but do not carry out as many stops; the fact that the windows go always closed eliminates pollution and noise, making the journey less tiring. They departure from Galle Bus Terminal every 30 minutes.

Officially the trip takes three hours, but it is most likely take close to four hours, depending on traffic in the city of Colombo, since the bus has to cross the whole city to get to Colombo-Fort where the terminal and which is at the north end of town.

The bus route starts in Galle Bus Terminal, platform number 2.

Ticket Galle-Colombo-Fort: 275 LKR (3 hours)

There are a modern and comfortable bus with a/c, Galle to Maharagama, and that is the route the expressway which takes 1.45 hours and departs every 30 minutes from the top left side of Galle Bus Terminal.

Reaching Maharagama, a town 15 km south of Colombo, it is necessary to change to a city bus bound for Colombo-Fort who has to cross the entire city, because the bus station is at the north end of town, which reveals a long 1 hour trip.

Galle ticket to Maharagama: 375 LKR (1.45 hour)

Ticket Maharagama to Colombo-Fort: 50 LKR (1 hour)

Use the train, but as not all trains stop at all stations, it is best to head to Galle and then start the journey to Colombo. The question of the train is always the same: get a seat since tickets for 1st class (the one with seating) are usually sold out in advance.

Travel between Galle and Colombo-Fort takes about 3 hours.

Ticket Galle to Colombo Fort: 180 LKR (in 2nd class)

Galle population: 99.000

Galle elevation: 1 meter

Narigama Beach in Hikkaduwa

Hikkaduwa, located on the southwest coast of Sri Lanka, became popular by the waves that provide good conditions for surfing, presenting itself as a cheaper and more popular alternative among backpackers than other beaches like Bentota, dominate by resorts and that attract more people… but as everything changes, Hikkaduwa also changed and also became popular and part of the itineraries of the “package” holiday, giving rise to hotels and resorts, leaving behind a quiet fishing village atmosphere to turn out hectic and touristic.

As a consequence, the most southern beaches were becoming more popular and also, the previously living from fishing was mostly replaced by tourism business.

Hikkaduwa beach still a popular place for surfers

So the place to enjoy the famous Sri Lanka beaches was Narigama Beach, a mere 5 kilometers from Hikkaduwa, who heads towards the south by the infernal national road, that link Colombo to Galle (known as Galle Road). In fact, it is hard to say when it’s over a village and starts another, as along the national road, line up t houses and more houses, restaurants, shops, guest houses, hotels, grocery stores, travel agencies, souvenir shops, etc… in an endless succession that don’t allow to see the dense green patch of palm trees from the tropical landscape of this region of Sri Lanka.

While Hikkaduwa continues to attract surfers, who also had already found new spots further south along the coast, Narigama Beach attracts more couples and older tourists, mainly Russians and Germans who fled the turmoil of restaurants and bars that animate the Hikkaduwa beach, seeking for quiet of a nearly empty beach.

Sri Lanka_Narigama beach_DSC_6988 — Narigama beach

road Hikkaduwa-Galle that despite the intense and noisy traffic still keep the laid-back local atmosphere

Sri Lanka advertises itself as one of the destinations with beautiful beaches but its geographical position of the island in the Indian Ocean between the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal causes strong currents and powerful waves. Here, the sea is reputed to be dangerous, and a short swim it turns out that in fact is not very safe, with many strong currents and cross waves which make animated baths but at the same time risky. To compensate this, the temperature of the sea is perfect: warm but not too hot.

Narigama beach extends for 3 kilometers long towards the south, in a broad and continuous sand, that as you walk will have a less occupation, that means fewer hotels and houses since in terms of tourists these beaches can not be considered crowded.

This extensive beach offers pleasant walks at the end of the afternoon when the sun softens intensity, hiding behind a blanket of clouds even before reaching the horizon line. Is at this time of day that the sky gets fantastic colors, contrasting with the dawn, bright and delicate, the sunset leaves a surreal track where nature gets bizarre colors, creating moments of a strange atmosphere.

Where to stay in Narigama Beach:

Along the national road, as also along the beach and a little to the inside (with the inconvenience of having to cross the main road to reach the beach) are dozens of accommodation including resorts, hotels, boutique hotels, guest houses and many houses that rent rooms (homestays). Prices vary widely, but you can be a room for 1000 LKR, and if you choose a guest house (or homestay) the prices can be bargained in low season or for long term stays.

Along the beach are the most expensive accommodation, but walking a bit along the coconut trees and asking locals you end up finding more modest and modest places that provide good rooms at reasonable prices.

Hector’s Place is one of those places, which brings together a few small houses and rooms of various types and sizes. This place is very quiet, far enough from the road to not hear the car noise, and at less than 100 meters from the sea, which provides a constant background sound of the strong waves.

A double room, living room, balcony, and bathroom costs 2000 LKR.

For those traveling on the main road, the entrance to the Hector’s Place is located just after the Ranmal Beach Hotel, for who go towards Hikkaduwa for Galle. For who walks the road the place is not easy to find because it has not sign or identified, but walking by the sand there is a discreet sign “rooms available” near one of the observation posts, a kind of “lifeguard” that run in mixed trade selling clothes and coconut while seem to watch who bathe in the sea.

Hector’s Place . Narigama Beach — Hector’s Place. Narigama Beach

Where to eat in Narigama Beach:

Find local food at reasonable prices is not easy in these areas by the sea, where the food prices are extremely inflated, where some rice and curry can cost 500 LKR, instead of the usual 150 LKR.

Most restaurants offer a mix of local food with international food stands the fish and shellfish.

Along the road linking Hikkaduwa to Narigama there are plenty of choice in terms of restaurants, but only after an exhaustive search, was possible to find a place that serves a proper rice and curry for 200 LKR… cheaper just taking the bus and going to the village of Hikkaduwa. The site is very popular among the locals, that early starts to flock to buy a meal and takeaway, which makes that around two o’clock the food finish. The rice, instead of the usual white rice is the called “red-rice”, a little more tasty; but the focus is on the curries, which varied every day, sometimes using the jack-fruit or its seeds as an ingredient, but always accompanied by traditional sambol, a spicy condiment made from freshly grated coconut. The place has no name or any indication in English, and can be easily unnoticed. The food is delicious and spicy, as the tradition in Sri Lankan cuisine, and can be vegetarian or not.

Rice and curry restaurant, without any sign that shows that here is served one of the best “rice and curry”… delicious and with a reasonable price

Rice and curry served in the small and family style restaurant near the national road… discreet but very popular between locals

The No Name restaurant, also located on the roadside serves kotu in generous and delicious doses, as well as vegetarian rotis in variants with meat, fish or even with banana and chocolate, a variation according to the Western taste.

In fact, the easiest and cheapest meal is undoubtedly the rotis and the kotus, which are popular as evening meal, packing several restaurants that specialize in this kind of food.

All this type of inexpensive places, as also some more expensive restaurants are located along the national road and suffering from the same problem: the discomfort caused by the constant traffic of trucks, buses, cars, motorcycles and tuk-tuks almost always running at excessive speed, adding to the discomfort caused by constant honking and pollution.

But the village of Hikkaduwa remains the “center” of activity with the train station, bus station, banks and local businesses, is a good option to find meals at reasonable prices, as well a fruit and vegetables market.

And it is certainly the right place for lovers of the traditional Sinhalese snacks, the deep fry patties, filled with delicious and very spicy curries.

snack stall. Hikkaduwa — snack stall with rotis and deep fry patties in front of Hikkaduwa Bus Terminal

Next to the bus station the milk bar sells traditional curd, a thicker yogurt from buffalo milk, more fat than what we are used to, and that comes in clay pots. The price is displayed so there is no doubt that the smaller “pot”, half a kilo costs 150 LKR.

How to get to Hikkaduwa:

Hikkaduwa can be reached by train or bus, with direct links to the city of Colombo. South of there, there are also buses and trains from Matara and Galle.

The train ride from Colombo-Fort to Hikkaduwa takes about 3 hours and the route is always done by the coast so it is preferable to choose a place on the right side of the wagon… if you can find a seat! Leaving the Hikkaduwa railway station you’ll see a small Hikkaduwa bus terminal bound for Matara, Mirissa, Galle stopping in small villages in between.

How to go from Narigama to Hikkaduwa:

The best option is to use one of the many buses that constantly pass on the national road bound for Hikkaduwa and other northern villages.

There is also a train station that is closer to the Narigama beach: Thiranagama. But given the low frequency of trains the best option is to use the bus whose high frequency don’t make you wait more than five minutes for the next bus.

The Narigama trip to Hikkaduwa takes 10 minutes and costs 8 LKR.

How to go from Narigama to Galle:

From Narigama to Galle as the frequency of the buses is high, you never waiting more than 5 minutes. If you want to go further to Mirissa ou Matara, you’ll need to change buses in Galle Terminal.

Find a bus stand can be a little difficult because many times there isn’t a shelter or sign that identifies a bus stand, however, just follow the markings on the floor in yellow, in which the local stop is defined as a rectangle…. os simply ask to the local people.

The Narigama trip to Galle takes 30 minutes and costs 35 LKR.

Bus from Hikkaduwa to Galle that stops in Narigama

From the hill to the beach… Kandy to Hikkaduwa by train

Go from Kandy on the hills to the plains of the southwest coast, near Hikkaduwa, by train proved to be a long and arduous trip that lasted over 9 hours, to cover the 250 kilometers that separate the two sites, involving three trains and two short bus journeys trips… but “zero” tuk-tuks!!!!

Kandy is located at the so-called “Hill Country” a mountain area with lakes, forests and tea plantations that dominate the central-south part of the country. Around, in whatever direction is extend the tropical plains ending at the sea. But given the topography of the country, the inefficient road network and the structure of the transport system, to go to Kandy to the beaches located on the southwest coast is inevitable to go to Colombo, either to change trains or bus.

Although looking disorganised and be very slow the buses are a good mean of transport in Sri Lanka, with services covering the entire territory with high frequency, where is not necessary to wait more than 15 minutes for the “next bus”. The bus terminals are continently located in the city center, and never far from the Train Stations. The drawback of the bus is that there aren’t express services, i.e. direct buses, so the trips become long and tiring with multiple stops to pick up passengers, not only in the “official” bus stands but in any place where someone is waiting.

Buses of the state-owned company (SLBT identifiable by the red color of the buses) do not have this problem, but also don’t offer direct connections between major cities.

Roads linking the major cities are in good condition, but having only two lanes show up most often insufficient for the intense traffic, essentially dominated by buses, trucks, motorbikes and tuk-tuks, that constantly takeover each other in risky maneuvers that require quick accelerations and constant braking making any journey tiring and uncomfortable.

The busiest roads, such as Colombo to Kandy are flanked on both sides by houses, workshops, buildings, shops and stalls that cause a constant busyness of people and vehicles that often occupy the road slowing, even more, the traffic flow.

The train is a relic left by British colonialism and kept almost intact, with only a few newer wagons “made in china”. Stations, information boards, tickets took us to charming old times, but worst is the totally archaic operating system, where all lines radiate from Colombo, with trains to start and finish the service in the capital, always being necessary to change to another train if you wish to go to another line.

Keeping the same strategy doesn’t exist an “extra” service in the busiest section of a line, that makes the train arrive at a busy station already totally packed. The same applies to weekends and holidays, when the number of passenger increases, to visit relatives or religious sites, making the train runs always crowded in the 2nd and 3rd class.

Buy train tickets for 1st class, the only ones with reserved seats, have to be done over a month in advance what pushes tourists to travel agencies that book lots of tickets in advance and resell then charging high commissions. This means that for those who travel without an organised tour has no chance to have a reserved seat in Sri Lankan trains, make you strive for a seat or often just to get into the train.

Yet the price of a train ticket is extremely cheap, for a 250 km trip you pay 600 LKR (approximately 3.7 €) and with the train to do more interesting and charming routes than the buses, away from the noisy and polluted roads, and providing nice view especially in mountainous areas.

For train schedule and more detail information: http://www.seat61.com/SriLanka.htm

Train departure time @ Galle Train Station

How to go from Kandy to Colombo by Train:

For those who are lodged on the southern side of the lake along the Saranankara Road, just go down until reaching the main road that runs along the lake and waits for one of the many buses passing by. The ticket until the Bus Terminal costs 8 LKR, and bus stops within a walking distance from the train station. The alternative is the tuk-tuk, but they don’t charge less than 100 LKR.

Tickets for 2nd and 3rd class start to be sold one hour before the train departure. The early morning trains have always more demand, so if you want to start your trip early you better get prepared to face a big queue at the ticket counter.

Since there are no reserved seats it is convenient to arrive early to get a seat if the train is beginning in Kandy station, otherwise, it is most likely you need to stand most of the trip.

The train trip between Kandy and Colombo is quite nice, with much of the route between mountainous areas full of green, with superb views of valleys, lakes and highest peaks, if you are lucky to get a seat by the window, on the left side of the train, for who is traveling in Colombo direction.

Kandy Train station is small, easy guidance and without significant movement… and have toilets for foreigners?!?!?! Even if you don’t have time for a meal, you’ll find something to eat in one of the many hawkers sealing rotis, steamed corn, fruits and deep fry snacks.

From Kandy to Colombo the train takes close to four hours, arriving a little later than the scheduled.

Train ticket: 600 LKR (include travel to Kandy to Colombo-Fort and from Colombo-Fort to Hikkaduwa).

How to go from Colombo to Hikkaduwa by train:

Arriving at Colombo Fort, the main train station of the capital (and the most central) is necessary to find out which line pass the next train in direction to Matara, that stops in Hikkaduwa, and since there is no proper signals and it is difficult to find the station staff, there is no other option than to ask to other passengers, who will do everything to help.

As the first train that arrived at Matara was completely full, which is usual on weekends, the solution was to rely on the help of one of the passengers that were traveling in the same direction. So we take first a train in the opposite direction to Maradana Station (about 10 minutes away) where the train to Matara begins. There we just wait for the next train that stops in Hikkaduwa.

The journey until Hikkaduwa, after leave Colombo, is quite pleasant with the train making the most of the way along the coast overlooking the sea.

Reaching Hikkaduwa, exiting the small station, you’ll see in the other side of the road a small bus Terminal. To go to the beaches of Narigama or Trianagama, a little south of the busy Hikkaduwa, just catch one of the buses that pass on the main road next to the terminal bound for Galle.

bus Hikkaduwa -Narigama ticket: 8 LKR

Hikkaduwa bus terminal, on the road Colombo-Galle

Kandy: the lake and the tooth

For no apparent reason, some places don’t attract, don’t stimulate, drain our energy… yet nothing rationally seems negative there. Kandy is one of those places that has everything to be enjoyable: a central lake, densely vegetated slopes, a lively city center in terms of commerce, authentic local life, many historical sites, heritage… but still the stay in Kandy left a set of negative sensations.

From this negative image saved up the lake that provides more or less pleasant walks, if you are able to ignore the noise of the traffic and the continuously beeping that comes from the road that surrounds the lake, and the colors that dye the landscape after sunset.

Kandy is reputed to be the cultural capital of Sri Lanka, but a visit a few days revealed no significant cultural events despite being evident the presence of British colonialism in public buildings and houses converted into sophisticated hotels and shopping areas. However Kandy keeps its importance on the national scene for being the capital of one of the greatest kingdoms that ruled Sri Lanka, having resisted for a long time the attacks of the invaders: first the Portuguese, followed by the Dutch and culminating with the British who only left the territory in 1948.

But what stands out in Kandy is the religion, as this is considered one of the sacred places of Sri Lanka for the Buddhist religion, as it is here that is kept the famous relic of Buddha, a tooth saved in the cremation process and that through many ventures were brought to the island and stored in so-called Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, in the heart of the city near the Kandy Lake.

Despite the proximity to neighboring India, the dominant religion in Sri Lanka is Buddhism followed by 70% of the population; seconded by Hinduism with 8%, Muslim with 7%, and the remainder population divided by the various currents of Christianity left by the Portuguese, Dutch and British presence.

Kandy with its location in the middle of the hill where the low altitude provides a mild climate that contrasts with the constant high temperatures of the capital, Colombo, situated only 115 kilometers away. Even the winters are not too cold compared to other parts of the “Hill Country”, a name given to the mountain area that occupies the center of the island.

Since the city’s main attraction is the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, whose entry for foreigners cost 1500 LKR ($ 10) that makes it out the itinerary “backpacker”, remaining the walks through city streets, watching the trading goods bustle, visit the fresh food market, the observation of the local way of life.

Time for tasting delicious Sri Lanka snacks, the rotis, samosas, vadai, parippuvada, etc… most of them deep fry stuff, that are eaten at breakfast, between meals or even as a meal itself. A cheap and very popular food that is easily found everywhere, both as street vendors, in restaurants or cafes… and Kandy proved to have the best quality and supply.

Where to stay in Kandy:

Kandy has many options in terms of accommodation. In the center of the city within 2 kilometers radius from the Clock Tower Bus Terminal, there are few hostels with dorms, starting from 900 LKR. Moreover, in the center, the other accommodations are top range hotels and boutique hotel with the exception of Olde Empire, which charges too much for the conditions offered.

The best option is the homestays with most of them located on the south side of the lake, along the Saranankara Road, with prices vary greatly according to the rooms and the fact of whether or not a view of the lake, but where can be found a double room for 1000 LKR. They have the disadvantage of being a bit away from the center of Kandy, around 10 minutes walk, or more if situated on the top of the hill. To stay in a homestay, it is appropriate to make a reservation during peak season, as these places usually don’t have more than three or four rooms.

Pink House (homestay)

Address: 15 Saranankara Road, South Lake Kandy, 20000 Kandy

Phone: +94 77 961 8552

Good location at the beginning of the hill from the south side of the lake, not far from the road but far enough to save you from traffic and horns noise. From the bus terminal (Goods Shed Bus Terminal) as from the Train Station is a walking distance, but buses run on the main road and the ticket costs 8 LKR. To get to the town center, the nearest place with restaurants, ATMs and shops do not take more than 10 minutes on foot, a journey made along the lake.

The atmosphere is familiar in a relax and friendly atmosphere, ideal for those who like to participate in everyday family and learn more about the local way of life.

The rooms vary in size and comfort, but they are all with shared bathroom. The rooms at the entrance of the house are the nicest, whereas those located on the back of the house, after the courtyard, are small and uncomfortable. Meals can be provided if ordered in advance to the owner.

Double room: 1200 LKR

Shared toilet; hot water shower.

wi-fi available but extremely slow.

Olde Empire Hotel

Address: 21 Temple St, 20000 Kandy

Phone: +94 77 632 1867

Great location in the city center, opposite the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. However quite noisy due to proximity to one of the main avenues of the city.

The best rooms are located on the top floor, some overlooking the entrance to the temple, keeping the old colonial style given by the heavy furniture and the wooden floors where stands the smell of wax. The room located on the ground floor have no windows, but some holes on the wall near the ceiling, eliminating any chance of privacy between rooms as well as allow the mosquito entry, the cold of the nights (in December and January the nights are still chill in Kandy) and street noise, voices, engines, tuk-tuks, beeps…

The staff is not friendly at all and far from be useful in terms of information.

Double Room (upstairs): 3000 (attached toilet)

Double room (upstairs): 1800 (shared toilet)

Double room (ground floor): 2000 (attached toilet)

No hot shower, in any room or shared bathroom.

No Wi-Fi

Please note: some rooms have bed-bugs, but during the stay (January 2016) a big cleaning with replacement mattresses was taking place.

Olde Empire. Ground floor corridor. Kandy

Where to eat in Kandy

Also, in terms of restaurants Kandy offers many options, from fine dining, international chains of fast food, indian food as also of local restaurants with a menu to suit all budgets. Given the influence of Buddhism as well as Hinduism is very easy to find vegetarian food.

By the newness and the atmosphere the highlight goes to Kandy Muslim Hotel (in Sri Lanka as well as in South India the word “hotel” refers to simple, unpretentious and cheap restaurants), where you can find throughout the day the popular roti in their many variants with different shapes and fillings and the not less popular kottu, whose preparation is always shrouded in a lot of noise with the cook offering a small show.

As the name indicates the place is run by Muslims with a long beard and joyful attitude, which together with the patina and restaurant decor create a good atmosphere, accompanying appetizing dishes, which are not recommended to one sensitive to spicy or not comfortable with “oily” food!

Kandy Muslim Hotel

Address: Dalada Vidiya (in central Kandy within walking distance of Clock Tower)

Great for rotis and kottus, but where you can also find other meals such as fried rice, curries, lentils, vegetables… and meat or this were not a Muslim restaurant!

Popular between locals, informal, cheap but noisy.

_Kandy_Muslim Restaurant_Roti_Kottu_DSC_6937 — Roti and Kottu at Kandy Muslim Restaurant

_Kandy_Muslim Hotel_DSC_7072 — Kandy Muslim Hotel. Kandy

Devon Restaurant & Bakery

Address: 11, Dalada Vidiya (in central Kandy within walking distance of Clock Tower and opposite the Muslim Hotel)

The restaurant is on the first floor, but the best is located at street level where is a cafe selling delicious snacks (vegetarian, with meat or fish). In the morning, people line up for take-away. As it open at 6 a.m. is a good option to supply food for those long bus or train journeys that are part of the Sri Lanka traveling experience.

The stay in Kandy also provided time to savor several variations of the popular rice and curry, which can be considered the national dish of Sri Lanka, and is served in all restaurants, whatever the category.

As the name implies this is rice accompanied by one, two or more varieties of curry, pol sambol in (a spicy flavor based on coconut oil) or gotukola sambol (one crude mixture of a green leaf vegetable with coconut and chili).

Served in the morning as breakfast, the rice and curry is more popular as lunch, but rarely find at dinner time in the restaurants.

Transportation in Kandy:

Kandy is served by rail, a direct connection with Columbo and halfway to the call Hill Country. Despite the short distance from the capital to Kandy, the train journey takes over 4 hours. The alternative is the “normal” buses, that depending on traffic may even take even longer. From Columbo-Fort departing bus with a/c that makes fewer stops along the way and takes between 3.5 to 4 hours.

There are 3 bus terminals in Kandy, all located in the city center and near the train station. The “Goods Shed Bus Terminal” and the terminal of private buses (Private Bus Terminal) work for long-distance services. The bus station 500 meters further north, near the Clock Tower – Clock Tower Bus Stop – is intended for urban service.

From both bus terminals as from the railway station is relatively easy to reach the city center on foot. As you reach the lakeside, you’ll have on your left the busiest area of Kandy, or you can walk to the right side to access the hill where are located most of the homestays and guest houses.

Population: 112,000

Altitude: 500 m