Stepping out of Babylon

on the road … from Leh to Srinagar

(this post was originally publish in June 2013)

Now that we are approaching the day to leave Srinagar, after a stay of about two weeks, it is time to tell how we got here.

After a difficult journey between Manali and Leh, which took us 21 hours to cover the 490 km of the famous Manali-Leh Highway, we didn’t want to face again the dangers of this winding and narrow mountain road to return to Manali, that despite being middle of June was still flanked by thick layers of ice.

So, the only option was to continue forward, towards the Kashmir region facing the National Highway 1 (NH1), which is the only road, linking the Ladakh region to the rest of Jammu & Kashmir state, passing close by the Pakistan border.

Just to make it clear, the term “highway” has nothing to do with what we know by that name in terms of commodities, speed or safety conditions. It’s a term used to identify a main road linking to major places. Maybe the term “highway” should be read literally as a road located at high altitude, usually winding, narrow and carved into the steep slopes of the mountains, far from being safe and where circulation is dependent on the weather conditions that in the rainy season end up in landslides.

Closed more than half of the year due to the extreme weather conditions of the Himalayan winters, the Srinagar–Leh Highway crosses the Zoji La, a high pass at 3528 mm, that despite not being the highest elevation point of this road, Zoji La is famous for being the most danger highpass of the Srinagar-Leh Highway, due to the combination of factor like the bad pavement conditions, steep slopes, narrow road and frequent heavy rain…. but not none of these we knew when we took our decision to lead to Srinagar!!

Srinagar and the Kashmir surrounding region were out of the tourist circuit until about ten years ago, not even appearing in travel guides, as this region was closed to foreigners due to the civil war between Indian troops and the separatist movements that claim Kashmir’s independence, as also the several conflicts during the Indo-Pakistani War which last battlers occur during 1999, known as Kargil War.

Despite the heavy history of these region, the information and feedback that we got from other travellers that we met in Leh, were very positive, referring Srinagar as a beautiful city, with nice and friendly people, a strong Muslim influence, and despite the army presence, it doesn’t appear to have safety problems. So, Srinagar becomes our next destination after Leh, and the NH1 was the only option!

To cover the 434 kilometers separating Leh from Srinagar we decided that it would be best to go by jeep because the previous experience of the mini-van trip between Manali and Leh did not leave comfortable memories. We learned later that the bus service provided by the local company JKSRTC would have been the best option, in terms of cost, of course, but also in terms of safety as the drivers take time to rest and don’t drive in the night. But the two days of travel required by a bus trip were not tempting.

By jeep, we had a ten-hour journey ahead, made mostly at night, and strangely we were the only passengers. Soon, we realised that it was not going to be an easy trip and it would take us a lot longer… the driver was quite bad, sometimes driving in the opposite side of the road, often too close by the verge, making sharp turns on the steering wheel, overtaking without any care…all these while typing messages on the mobile phone and picking the teeth.

In one of the many stops we made during the night was in Mulbekh, which was a place we wanted to visit because of the Buddha statue with about seven meters high, carved in the rock between the 7th and 8th centuries. But this was not for sightseeing or just to eat or drink a “chai”. Here the driver decided to rest vanishing in the dark night. So we end up spending several hours inside the jeep, parked on the roadside, in a completely isolated place, deserted at those hours, surrounded by dense darkness facing the chill night under Buddha’s protective gaze.

At dawn, we made a short stop in Kargil, from where the signs of Muslim culture became clear: mosques, flags in the green colour of Islam, Arabic calligraphy, women with heads covered by scarfs… it didn’t even seem that we were in India anymore. The Dalai Lama pictures that usually show up on the walls a bit every place in Leh, were now replaced by Ayatollah Khomeini images. The face features of the people also changed, and we couldn’t anymore spot the traditional Tibetan round faces and slanted eyes, but instead by the long bony faces, narrow noses and the long beards.

As we move further, the landscape became increasingly green, leaving behind the aridity and dryness of the Ladakh landscape. The road goes smoothly up, describing winding curves in a mountains landscape crowned with snow and valleys lined with grass where rivers meandered. Flocks of sheep and goats led by nomad shepherds move along the road, transporting their possessions and goods in small caravans of mules.

After passing Dras, another village without any remarkable thiing, we went up and up in the mountain towards the highest point, Zoji La, the famous highpass situated at 3529 meters of altitude. The temperature started to drop down and the visibility conditions were drastically diminished with the thick fog, forming small drops in our air and cloths, almost like rain. As we were getting close to the highpass, the conditions worsened, with the bumpy pavement road giving place to a narrow and muddy path, which wasn’t more than a thin line carved in the steep slopes of these mountains, without any protection from us and the abyss.

Moving further become hard and slower due to the intense traffic, mainly overloaded cargo trucks, and got worsened by streams that quickly formed by the intense rain, crossing the road and falling off the slopes like small waterfalls, dangerously eroding the verge and creating small landslides.

Crossing vehicles become a difficult and risky task, requiring long stops, as certain sections of the road are only wide enough for one truck, which creates long lines of trucks and buses. At the most critical points on the road, the military help to control the traffic and monitored road safety conditions, where landslides often close the road even during the few “summer” months where it is supposed to be open.

Faced with this scenario that got worst as we went closer to Zoji La, the driver of our Jeep didn’t show any sign of changing is danger driving style, but instead, started to speed up while honking his horn furiously, trying to make dangerous and unthinkable overtaking, pushing our car too close to the verg, like un unconscious mad-man. It was too much for me, and couldn’t avoid shouting at him to stop!!! It work out for a few minutes…

All these resulting in an extreme accumulation of tension, which left me on the verge of despair, to the point I decided to get out of the car to continue the rest of the way on foot… at last until reach a less scary part of the road. But the persistent rain, the strong wind, the mountain cold and the mud, which almost made me slip as I set foot on the road, restrain my impulse and push me to go back to the car again.

This whole nightmare, framed by a heavy grey sky that make the midday almost look almost like dusk, only subsided when we started to descend towards Sonamarg, where the sun started timidly rising through the clouds, leaving behind the arid and grey landscape of the high mountains, where the summits were still covered with snow.

The rest of the trip was made smoothly, through green and flowering valleys, with the road crossing small villages. It was like a blessing, leaving behind the frightening experience of crossing the Zoji La and enjoying a smooth trip, with the road running along the Sind River, where wild horses graze calmly and where the road is every now and then shared with flocks of sheep.

Without doubt, the Srinagar–Leh Highway is something remarkable in my trip in India and I’m glad (and in a certain way proud) that I did it but I’m not sure if I’ll ever do it again! I respect the courage of people that do this road, as also Manali-Leh Highway, by motorbike… I wouldn’t dare!

From all this intense experience, can’t share much more than words, that are never enough to describe the mix of feelings that range between terror and fascination, or the amazing landscapes from dry steep mountains to green bucolic valleys. But with so many things going on, taking photos pictures was something that was left behind and now I regret don’t have any more images to share.

After an 18 hours trip (almost the double of what it was told us in the beginning), we finally arrived at Srinagar, around two o’clock in the afternoon, and were dropped off by our driver somewhere, on a wide and busy street. The sound of the horn honking and the chaotic intense traffic, that was absent in the Ladakh region, made us realise that we were back in India!

About the food in Cambodia

In summary, it can be said that Cambodia is not an easy country for vegetarians, as this is a strange concept in this country where meat consumption dominates. But there are always options like noodle soups, curries and some snacks that help to get around the situation!

As in Lao, the noodle soups continued to be present but the quality decreased: not only are the broths less aromatic, but sometimes the noodles are made from dry pasta or even instant noodles. The usual dish of aromatic herbs and vegetables that accompanied these soups in the neighbouring country, is often absent here.

In Cambodian food, there is a strong influence of Chinese and Vietnamese cuisine, which is visible in the many restaurants serving “phò”, the traditional vietnamese noodle soup.

Another influence of China is the hot pots, which are very popular among Cambodians (as in many other Southwest Asian countries), especially in cities and particularly on weekends, where these restaurants are filled with families and groups of friends who share this meal, consisting of a pan with a boiling broth, where pieces of meat are floating, which remain hot on the table with the use of a mini gas stove, and where the various side dishes, such as cabbage, fresh herbs, pasta, pieces of meat and also viscera…

These noodle soups, prepared at the moment, can be made in the vegetarian version, however, although meat is not added, there is no increase in the amount of vegetables that usually come down to a handful of soy sprouts and a few cabbage leaves. As for the broth that serves as the base for these soups, almost transparent and with a light flavour, it is likely to contain products of animal origin in its preparation.

The so-called rice soups, popular as a morning meal, although a little boring, are also an option for vegetarians, since you can always order without meat, alternatively adding soy sprouts.

More advisable in terms of a vegetarian diet are fry-noodles, where the rice noodles are stir fry with some vegetables and egg and seasoned with mysterious sauces.

Coffee is usually served with ice and is almost always sweetened with condensed milk. The preparation is in everything similar to that found in Vietnam, with the boiling water being poured over the coffee in a kind of metallic filter, placed on the top of the glass. Often the coffee is already made, in a very concentrated dose, which is then diluted in hot water when the coffee is served. The flavour is smooth but with a particular flavour, but it is necessary to use a certain communication skill to avoid the popular condensed milk, which totally crushes the original flavour of the coffee.

The curries continue to be strongly present, much less spicy than in neighbouring Thailand, served with the usual dose of rice. The most popular of these curries is amok, which can be seafood, fish, meat or just vegetables, highlighting the mild aroma of spices from which lemongrass, turmeric and ginger stand out. Traditionally this dish is made very slowly, in steam, on a banana leaf. Not as easy to find as a noodle soup, amok served with rice is a delicious option for vegetarians and is more likely to be found in restaurants than in markets.

In Cambodia, vegetarian options are scarcer than in other countries in Southeast Asia, dominating meat, whether fresh or processed in the form of small meatballs whose appearance is far from attractive but which is extremely popular in Cambodia. In the south of the country, given the proximity to the sea, fish and seafood are strongly present, with markets offering a wide variety of products, which is reflected in the dishes and even street snacks.

And as in any Asian country, street food has a strong presence, due to its variety, both in sweets and in snacks, appearing at specific times of the day, often next to markets, schools, or in the busiest streets of cities. They can be small stalls transported on bicycles or compact kitchens coupled to motorcycles.

As in many Southwest Asian countries, it is not difficult to find exotic foods by European standards, and Cambodia seems to offer even more opportunities to find frogs for sale in the markets or grasshoppers fried at a street stall.

Sopa de arroz, servida somente de manhã, como primeira refeição do dia, e que muitas vezes é acompanhada de uma especie de pão frito — Rice soup, served only in the morning, as the first meal of the day, which is often accompanied by a kind of fried bread

stree food em Siem Reap — street food in Siem Reap

pasteis de massa de arroz recheados com legumes e mergulhados numa mistura de molhos doces, salgados e picantes — rice noodles stuffed with vegetables and dipped in a mixture of sweet, savoury and spicy sauces

banca que todas as noite surge nas ruas de Siem Reap servindo a sopa de noodles tradicional do Vietnam — every night several small stands appear on the streets of Siem Reap serving Vietnamese traditional noodle soup

muitas vezes é possivel encontrar fruta já descascada e cortada que se vende nas ruas, em especial nas zonas mais frequentadas por turistas. — it is often possible to find already peeled and cut fruit that is sold on the streets, especially in the areas most frequented by tourists

bancas de venda de comida em Siem reap, em frente ao local de partidas dos autocarros... depois da hora de ponta mudan-se para outras paragens. — food stalls in Siem reap, in front of the bus departure point … but after the rush hour it moves to other stops

chá que está semptre disponivel nas mesas — tea that is always available on the tables

sops de noodles com legumes — noodle soup with vegetables

molhos e mais molhos... mas poucos picantes, em comparação com o que era oferecido na Tailândia ou mesmo no Laos — sauces and more sauces … but few spicy, compared to what was offered in Thailand or even Laos

café confeccionado de forma semelhante à que se encontra no Vietnam — ice coffee made by the filter process

street-food em Phnom Penh — street-food in Phnom Penh

fruta de uma especie de palmeira, servida com leite de coco, gelo e muito, muito açucar — toddy fruit, from a kind of palm tree, translucent and gelatinous, served with coconut milk and ice…. very sugary

fruta de uma especie de palmeira — toddy palm fruit

mercado de Phnom Penh — Phnom Penh market

bolos cozinhados ao vapor, em folha de bananeira — steamed cakes in banana leaf

noodles fritos com legumes e ovo estrelado... sempre frito dos dois lados! — fried noodles with vegetables and a fried egg … always fried on both sides!

um dos muitos snacks de rua: massa doce frita e salpicada de sésamo — one of the many street snacks: fried sweet dough, sprinkled with sesame seads

restaurante de phô em Phnom Penh — “phô” restaurant in Phnom Penh

Vegetable “amok“… the famous Cambodian curry that most of the times is made with fish, but that can also be ordered in a vegetarian version only with legumes.

Uma especie de custard, mas cozinhada dentro de uma pequena abóbora que depois de cozida se pode comer a casca; é servida às fatias, regadas com leite de côco, calda de açucar, gelo e leite condensado. Muito popular na Tailândia, pode-se também encontrar nos mercados do Camboja

A kind of custard, but cooked inside a small pumpkin that after being cooked you can eat the peel; it is served sliced, drizzled with coconut milk, sugar syrup, ice and condensed milk. Very popular in Thailand, it can also be found in Cambodian markets

banca no mercado de Sihanouk Ville dedicada à venda de doces, onde domina o leite de côco e o leite condensado — stall in the Sihanouk Ville market dedicated to the sale of sweets, where coconut milk and condensed milk dominate

Food of Punjab

For those who quickly get tired of the menu offered in the Golden Temple canteen, which varies little beyond dhal, chapati and rice, there are many interesting options in the city.

Punjab is famous for its food, which has become an image and brand of ‘Indian food’ in European countries, which is characterised essentially by thick and spicy curries; heavy but tasty.

Bhai Kulwant Sing, que pelo nome e pelo turbante envergado pelo homem que s encontra à entrada a receber os pagamentos, é propriedade de sikhs, oferecendo uma boa variedade de kulchas e onde se pode saborear o ‘special lassi’.... a não perder a ‘panner kulcha’ e o espesso lassi!!!! — Bhai Kulwant Sing, who by name and the turban worn by the man who finds himself at the entrance to receive payments, is owned by Sikhs, offering a good variety of kulchas and where you can taste the ‘special lassi’ …. miss the ‘panner kulcha’ and the thick lassi !!!!

‘panner kulcha’ servida com um caril de grão e um pickle à base de cebola e chilli, no Bhai Kulwant Sing, situado a pouco mais do que cinco minutos do templo, numa das ruas estreitas da ‘Old City’, do restaurante Bhai Kulwant Sing. Este prato é consumido geralmente como pequeno-almoço, sendo as ‘kulchas’ também servidas como acompanhamento dos pratos — ‘panner kulcha’ served with a grain curry and an onion and chilli pickle, at Bhai Kulwant Sing, located just over five minutes from the temple, on one of the narrow streets in the ‘Old City’, of the Bhai Kulwant restaurant Sing. This dish is usually consumed as a breakfast, with ‘kulchas’ also served as an accompaniment to the dishes

vendedor ambulante de kulfi, um gelado feito à base de leite, muito açúcar, cardamomo e pistácio. Fácil de encontrar também em pequenas lojas no bazar que se encontra à entrada do templo, perto da ‘Old City’ — street vendor of kulfi, an ice cream made from milk, a lot of sugar, cardamom and pistachio. Easy to find also in small stores in the bazaar at the entrance to the temple, close to the ‘Old City’

Bharawan da Dhaba... não confundir com outro exactamente com o mesmo nome, situado ao lado. Este é o ‘oldest and world famous’ dhaba que serve thalis ao estilo do Punjab — Bharawan from Dhaba … not to be confused with another exactly with the same name, located next to it. This is the ‘oldest and world-famous’ dhaba that serves Punjab style thalis

thali do Bharawan da Dhaba, de caris espessos, à base de lentilhas e grão, onde o panner marca forte presença e o arroz surge discreto, sendo suplantado pelos pelo naan (pão espalmado) e pelas estaladiças e amanteigadas kulchas — thali from Bharawan da Dhaba, with thick curries, based on lentils and grain, where the panner is strongly present and the rice appears discreet, being supplanted by naan (flatbread) and crispy and buttery kulchas

Lassiwalla, estabelecimento que fabrica e vende os lassis, feitos à base de iogurte, que é batido e açucarado, sendo servido em grandes copos: frio, espesso e espumoso, com uma camada de curd, no topo. Em Amritsar, nas ruas do bazar que envolve o Golden Temple encontram-se talvez dos melhores lassis experimentados na Índia, servidos tradicionalmente em recipientes de barro, que se deitam fora depois de usados, mas que aos poucos vão sendo substituídos por copos metálicos — Lassiwalla, an establishment that manufactures and sells lassis, made from yogurt, which is whipped and sweetened, served in large glasses: cold, thick and foamy, with a layer of curd on top. In Amritsar, in the streets of the bazaar that surrounds the Golden Temple are perhaps the best lassis experienced in India, traditionally served in clay containers, which are thrown away after being used, but which are gradually being replaced by metal cups

Despite only lacto-vegetarian food is served in the Golden Temple canteen, the sikhs are free to choose any kind of diet including the consumption of meat, except the one from animal killed in a ritualistic manner (the opposite from muslim and jewish).

So, I Punjab, as in general in the North of India, the vegetarian food is widely available but most of the restaurants also serve meat, being rare the “pure veg” restaurants like in South of India. Yet, it’s not difficult to find a typical vegetarian meal or a snack, but it is worth making sure that what is servile does not include meat.

South Indian food

To all the attractions that southern India has, in particular the state of Tamil Nadu, we must add the food, which here presents a greater diversity of vegetables and spices, resulting in a wide variety of flavors, colors, and aromas, dominated by spicy, served on banana leaves and accompanied with the ubiquitous cooked rice, which in the south replaces the chapatis that in the north always accompany them with meals. What is also never missing are papadis, a thin sheet of grain pasta seasoned with spices and which is fried and crispy.

For breakfast, dosas are served, a kind of very thin and crispy crepe, made with rice and lentil flour, stuffed with vegetables (almost always potatoes) and served with a fresh and spicy coconut chutney, and with the sambar, a light vegetable curry, where the dosa is soaked.

This combination of sambar and chutney can also accompany iddlys, unfermented bread made from lentil flour, which is steamed, or wadas (or vadas), rings of pasta made with lentil flour, flavored with spices and fried in oil.

But the new was pongal, a paste made from overcooked rice, seasoned with cumin, mustard seeds, pieces of fresh ginger and cashews, all wrapped in ghee and cooked with many leaves of rail. Like other breakfast alternatives, pongal is also served with coconut chutney and sambar or another vegetable curry..

The curry tree leaf, which is used here fresh, appears in almost all dishes served in traditional meals, thalis, consisting of rice and a set of three or more side dishes. Many of the meals include the so-called buttermilk, which is a kind of milk, waterier and slightly fermented that gives it a slightly acidic flavour and is served lightly seasoned with salt..

But more often than buttermilk, it is yoghurt that is mixed with rice and the other side dishes that make up a typical South Indian meal.

In traditional southern dishes, coconut, a flower and the banana tree trunk are often used. The panner (fresh non-melting soft cheese made by curdling milk) that was a constant in the north of India, here in the south has a very discreet presence, away from the Muslim areas.

As for the bread… no naans, no chappati or rotis… here are parathas (here pronounced parotta), made of very elastic dough that is spread with the help of oil, beating the dough on the counter until it is thin and starting to tear, when it occurs a knot tying the ends so that after resting it is extended again with a rustic hand and cooked on a plate, often heated with firewood; they are cute and separate into layers… and of course they accompany with a vegetable curry, usually served in the afternoon, as a snack, but never as a side dish of a meal.

The dahl, stewed with lentils, which is served here in the south, thick and consistent, does not compare with what is usually found in the north of the country: very liquid, more like a soup.

The ever-present chai is drunk at any time throughout India, both after meals and as an accompaniment, also serving as an excuse to take a short break during the workday. In Tamil Nadu, chai is often replaced by coffee, which is also sweetened and drunk with milk, served in metal cups, which in turn come in a cylindrical cup, also made of metal; before serving the coffee is poured from one container to another, several times, before being drunk.

Also in the south, with the characteristic tropical climate, there is a greater variety of vegetables. In addition to the potatoes, carrots and herbs, which are ubiquitous in Indian curries, here is common the use of green leafy vegetables, kelas (a kind of nutty cucumber with an intensely bitter taste but which is quite beneficial for purifying the blood), drumstick (or moringa), coconut (the fruit as also the “milk” and oil), banana (trunk and flower also) and jackfruit, as also a wide variety of legumes that often I cannot identify.

As for fruit, mangoes and bananas dominate, which come in many varieties, not only on the outside but also in flavour. Coconut is also sold everywhere, and its pulp is eaten, with the help of a sliver of coconut skin, cut with a machete, after drinking the liquid from the inside.

Thali típico do sul da Índia, servido sobre folha de bananeira e composto por uma grande variedade de caris, servidos em pequenas taças... o arroz veio mais tarde! — Thali typical of South India, served on a banana leaf and composed of a wide variety of curries, served in small bowls, a *puri*, often served as breakfast and a *papad*… rice came later!

Porothas acabadas de fazer — Freshly made porothas… always a bit oily but delicious when warm even plain without the usual sambal

um das muitas bancas que na rua sevem snacks e refeições ligeiras. A massa das porothas, é estendida e esticada até ficar muito fina , sendo depois enrolada formando um nó para depois de repousar, ser estendida com a mão — one of the many stalls serving snacks and light meals on the street. The dough of the porothas is extended and stretched until it is very thin, and then rolled into a knot so that after resting, it is extended by hand

Os pequenos pães brancos são iddlys, que juntamente com a wada acompanham um sambar e um chutney de côco. Como este pequeno-almoço foi comido num restaurante com mais categoria, foram servidos ainda mais dois condimentos, um à base de menta e o outro uma pasta vermelha e muito picante — The small white breads are iddlys, which together with the wada accompany a sambar and a coconut chutney. As this breakfast was eaten in a restaurant with more category, two more condiments were served, one based on mint and the other a red and very spicy paste

Preparação dos iddlys, em que a massa liquida é deitada sobre um prato metálico próprio, com pequenas concavidades. O pano serve para impedir que a massa escorra pelos pequenos orifícios do prato que permitem aos iddlys serem cozinhados ao vapor, em grandes panelas metálicas — Preparation of the *iddlys*, in which the liquid dough is placed on a metal plate, with small concavities. The cloth serves to prevent the dough from dripping through the small holes in the plate that allow the *iddlys* to be steamed in large metal pots

pongal... uma especialidade servida ao pequeno-almoço por todo o estado de Tamil Nadu, acompanhado por um chutney de côco e pelo sambar. A mistura vermelha é uma pasta de malagueta que nunca cheguei a utilizar pois o prato em si já é picante e bastante condimentado. Come-se misturando os acompanhamentos e o pongal com os dedos. — *pongal*… a speciality served for breakfast throughout the state of Tamil Nadu, accompanied by coconut chutney and sambar. The red mixture is a chilli paste that I never got to use because the dish itself is already spicy and very spicy. You eat by mixing the side dishes and the *pongal* with your fingers.

Experimentai o pongal por sugestão deste rapaz nepalês com quem partilhei a mesa de um restaurante em Madurai. Como é tradicional por aqui, o pequeno-almoço é acompanhado pelo café, com leite, servido num copo metálico, e que é servido juntamente com uma taça, para a qual o café é vertido diversas vezes antes de ser bebido pelo copo. — Try pongal at the suggestion of this Nepalese guy with whom I shared a table in a restaurant in Madurai. As is traditional here, breakfast is accompanied by **coffee**, with milk, served in a metal cup, which is served together with a cup, into which the coffee is poured several times before being drunk from the cup.

Este foi um dos mais tradicionais restaurantes que encontrei em Thanjavur, em que nem prato havia, sendo a comida servida directamente em folha de bananeira colocada em cima da mesa. As doses de arroz são sempre exageradas. Os acompanhamentos vão sendo servidos sempre que um empregado passa com pequenos baldes e se apercebe que não são suficientes para acompanhar a dose de arroz, podendo-se repetir as vezes que se quiser. — This was one of the most traditional restaurants that I found in Thanjavur, where there was no dish, the food being served directly on a banana leaf placed on the table. The doses of rice are always exaggerated. The accompaniments are served whenever an employee passes with small buckets and realizes that they are not enough to accompany the dose of rice, being able to repeat as many times as you want.

Num dos restaurantes tradicionais de Thanjavur, onde repousam em cima da mesa os "baldes" de onde é servida a comida — In one of the traditional restaurants in Thanjavur, where the “buckets” from which the food is served rest on the table

paan... mistura de nóz moscada partida em pequenos pedaços e que pode ser misturada com vários outros ingredientes, incluíndo tabaco. Esta é uma versão adocicada que é frequentemente consumida após as refeições, sendo colocada na boca até humedecer e posteriormente mastigada. Acredita-se que reduz a acidez da boca após a refeição e assim previne as cáries. Contudo o consumo diário e excessivo de paan provoca manchas vermelhas nos dentes que se vêm frequentemente entre a população mais pobre. — *paan*… mix of nutmeg broken into small pieces and that can be mixed with several other ingredients, including tobacco. This is a sweet version that is often consumed after meals, being put in the mouth until moist and then chewed. It is believed to reduce the acidity of the mouth after a meal and thus prevent cavities. However, daily and excessive consumption of *paan* causes red spots on the teeth that are often seen among the poorest population.

Uma fruta frequente do sul que não consegui fixar o nome: O sabor e textura assemelham-se a uma anona, mas o exterior parece um kiwi — A frequent fruit from the south that I was unable to name: The taste and texture resemble an annona, but the outside looks like a kiwi

Encontra-se uma grande variedade de bananas nos mercados e nos vendedores ambulantes que percorrem as ruas das cidades por onde passei. — You can find a wide variety of bananas in the markets and in the street vendors that roam the streets of the cities where I passed.

Este vegetal encontra-se em quase todos os pratos de caril que comi. É cozinhado cortado em pequenos troços, mas mesmo assim, somente se pode comer o seu interior, pois a parte exterior é demasiado fibrosa — Drumstick aka moringa, is vegetable found in almost every curry dish I’ve ever eaten. It is cooked cut into small pieces, but even so, you can only eat the inside, because the outside is too fibrous

Um dos mais conhecidos restaurantes de Madurai, onde no piso de baixo é servida comida de modo informal, e no piso de cima, geralmente reservado a homens de negócios e a estrangeiros, a mesma comida é servida com acréscimo de 20% no preço devido ao serviço melhorado e ao ar-condiconado... quase que à força tentaram.me encaminhar para o piso superior, mas consegui vitoriosamente comer onde queria — One of the best-known restaurants in Madurai, where food is served informally on the ground floor, and on the top floor with air-con , usually reserved for businessmen and foreigners, the same food is served with a 20% increase in price due to improved service and air-conditioning… they try to push me to top floor, but I managed victoriously to eat where I wanted

Hotel Saravana Bhavan... uma das maores cadeias de restaurantes do sul da Índia. Em Tamil Nadu é frequente os restaurantes chamarem-se de "hotel"... os hoteis são geralmente denominado de "lodge" mas nem sempre é assim, e acaba por causar alguma confusão. — Hotel Saravana Bhavan… one of the largest restaurant chains in southern India. In Tamil Nadu, restaurants are often called “hotel” … hotels are usually called “lodge” but this is not always the case, and it ends up causing some confusion.

For me, South Indian food, especially in the state of Tamil Nadu, is one of the best in the whole country, with only the food of the state of Gujarat as its rival, with a wide variety of flavours and ingredients, intense, spicy and with a certain tropical exoticism, making it simple and unpretentious. All of this makes a meal a delicious experience for the senses.

South India is a vegetarian paradise, with “pure veg” restaurants as well as street food without animal products. However, dairy products are present in both chai and yoghurt, which is often part of thali.

Each visit to Chennai, commonly called Madras, is a delight for the palate, with many options to explore the gastronomic specialities of southern India, from sophisticated restaurants to simple dining halls, not to mention street food !!

South Indian food…. what a delicious memory !!!

Food in Thailand for vegetarians

The fame of Thai gastronomy is entirely deserved, with a great diversity of dishes with a predominance of curries, aromatic and mildly spicy, and noodles, a smooth and soft pasta made with rice flour, present in many of the Thai dishes, like soups and stir-fry.

Generally speaking, rice is always present in any home, and it is common to walk the streets of the neighbourhoods to feel the hot smell of cooked rice at any time of the day, which is almost always made in electric cookers, both at home and in restaurants.

Near the markets, or even on the streets of the city, small stalls are selling cooked rice, both glutinous and normal, in small plastic bags, serving as side dishes for curries, stews or fried fish or meat, and sold in the form of small kebabs.

Sticky rice, or glutinous rice, serves as an accompaniment to many Thai dishes, also serving as a dessert, where it is eaten together with pieces of mango, and often drizzled with sweetened coconut milk, making a good combination. In some markets it is still possible to find this type of rice, which after being cooked is introduced into a bamboo trunk which is then grilled over charcoal; it can be just plain rice or mixed with beans, alfalfa seeds, bananas, meat… the choice is always risky because most sellers don’t speak English and even the sounds I try to pronounce to express my choice for vegetarian food are not understood, most of the time.

This type of long grain rice with a sweet taste, originally from the Issan region (northeastern Thailand), where it adapts well to poorly fertile soils, after being cooked it maintains its firm consistency but is easily added which allows it to be dipped in sauces, it is left to soak in water overnight, so that in the morning it is ready to be cooked.

Very popular, especially among foreigners, is the so-called “fried rice” which is nothing more than previously cooked rice that is stir-fry in the wok, with some pieces of vegetables and flavoured with soy sauce and fish sauce. Far from being my favourite dish, I consider the fried rice as “last resort” option, as the vegetarian option don’t show much nutritional value apart from a lot of carbohydrates and fat!!

It can be considered that the curry paste is the basis of almost all traditional dishes of Thai gastronomy, and can be made with different ingredients, but it usually has ginger, garlic, salt, chili, curry leaf, lemongrass… finely crushed and crushed to form a paste to which salt and spices are added that can be kept for several weeks. According to the dish to be prepared there are several types of curry pastes: green, red, massaman, panang… which are sold in the food markets all around the country.

Another constant is the noodle soup, prepared in less than a minute and very popular as street food, where small stalls only need a large pot with a steaming broth, which when uncovered fills the air with soft aromas, which pieces of green leafy vegetables, meat, or tofu are added to the dish, with the addition of fresh rice noodles, which are instantly ready to eat.

MSG, Monosodium Glutamate. This is the true plague of Thai food that competes strongly with sugar, and is present in almost all dishes, both in restaurants and in street food, which consists of a chemical used to enhance the flavour of food, but controversial use as it is not well tolerated by everyone and can cause gastric problems.

The “pad thai” is undoubtedly the most popular, perhaps because it has become popular with tourists and because it is cheap and easy to make, which makes it present in all restaurants, markets or street stalls. based on sautéed noodles with soy sprouts and a few vegetables, and sprinkled with crushed peanuts. Despite having an egg, it is a good option for vegetarians, but small dried shrimps often appear that ruin this option.

In general, Thai cuisine is not very “friendly” for vegetarians, as many of the dishes often have pork, chicken or shrimp, including noodle soups that are often made with meat broths; even more difficult is for vegan, where the presence of egg is almost mandatory when ordering something vegetarian.

But in the bigger urban areas, the vegetarian diet is getting popular and with a bit of internet research is not difficult to spot a vegetarian or even vegan restaurant. However, the prices are certainly higher than what you can find in street-food.

Tofu is also a presence in Thai cuisine, certainly an influence from neighbouring China, and is seen as one more ingredient in the local dishes, and not necessarily an alternative to meat or fish.

As most of the food is cooked at the moment it’s not difficult to order a vegetarian version of a dish, yet nothing is a guarantee about the use of some “mysterious” sauces that most of the time contain animal products.

There is no strict timetable for meals, nor a specific type of food for each meal, and a soup of noodles or a piece of fried chicken with rice can be served for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

restaurante de rua em Bangkok que surge diáriamente ao fim do dia dedicada exclusivamente à preparação de um prato feito à base de legumes e de carne ou marisco, que são cozinhados numa chapa aquecida sobre lume forte, enquanto são vigorosamente mexidos e regados com caldos e molhos — street restaurant in Bangkok that appears daily at the end of the day dedicated exclusively to the preparation of a dish made with vegetables and meat or seafood, which are cooked on a heated plate over high heat, while being vigorously stirred and drizzled with broths and sauces

A restaurant next to Ayutaya train station, which in the morning, even before dawn, already serves simple meals, such as soup and noddles and pad thai

uma das muitas sopas de noodles que podem ser encontradas pelos restaurantes tailandeses; esta é uma variante vegetariana com tofu, mas a base é a mesma das tradicionais sopas à base de carne: caldo que está sempre fumegante numa panela ao lume, que é deitado sobre os legumes e onde são colocados os noodles (massa de arroz) que é cozinhada pouco mais de trinta segundos numa outra panela com água a ferver. Tudo isto é feito em menos de um minuto. — one of the many noodle soups that can be found in Thai restaurants; this is a vegetarian variant with tofu, but the base is the same as the traditional meat-based soups: broth that is always steaming in a pan over the heat, which is laid over the vegetables and where the noodles (rice noodles) are placed it is cooked just over thirty seconds in another pan with boiling water. All of this is done in less than a minute.

Uma das bancas de venda de salsichas, e outros derivados de carne ou de peixe, apresentado uma consistência estranha, de textura compacta e cor artificial, mas que, a avaliar pelo numero destas bancas, são bastante apreciadas pelos tailandeses, que as consomem enquanto andam pela rua ou levam para casa juntamente com sacos de arroz, já cozinhado — One of the stalls selling sausages, and other meat or fish products, presented a strange consistency, of compact texture and artificial color, but which, judging by the number of these stalls, are highly appreciated by the Thais, who consume them while walking down the street or take home with bags of rice, already cooked

Em alguns mercados é ainda possivel encontrar leite de coco feito na hora, que é vendido juntamente com o coco ralado resultante do processo de obtebção do liquido — In some markets, it is even possible to find freshly made coconut milk, which is sold together with the grated coconut resulting from the process of obtaining the liquid

Sopa de arroz acompanhada de massa frita, que é um dos tradicionais pratos consumidos pela manhã, mas que tb se pode encontrar em algusn restaurantes ao longo do dia. A base é muito semelhante à sopa de noodles, sendo feita à base de um caldo de legumes, onde é colocado o arroz muito coziso e por vezes ligeiramente triturado, e que pode ser servido com ovo que lentamente cozinha no caldo que é serviso a escaldar — Rice soup accompanied by fried pasta, which is one of the traditional dishes consumed in the morning, but which can also be found in some restaurants throughout the day. The base is very similar to noodle soup, made from a vegetable broth, where the rice is placed very cooked and sometimes lightly crushed, and which can be served with an egg that slowly cooks in the broth that is served to scald

Sticky-rice em bambu; esta é a variante com alfafa — Bamboo sticky-rice; this is the alfalfa variant

Although it is not too cold, this time of year is corresponding to winter, and temperatures drop significantly during the night; and how could it be that chestnuts appear to remember winter in Portugal … but these are smaller and steamed!

pad thai, numa variante feita por mim, nos dias que passei na Giant Gouse, em Chiang Mai; esta tem mais legumes para além dos habituais rebentos de soja, e não tem ovo — pad thai, in a variant made by me, in the days I spent at Giant Gouse, in Chiang Mai; this one has more vegetables than the usual soy sprouts and has no egg

tiras de carne a secar ao sol — strips of meat drying in the sun

Bananas, bananas, bananas.... estão por todo o lado, de diversas variedades, e vendidas frescas, verdes, secas, fritas, assadas.... — Bananas, bananas, bananas… they are everywhere, of various varieties, and sold fresh, green, dried, fried, roasted..

Uma das bancas de venda de "papaia salad" no mercado de Sompet, em Chiang Mai — One of the stalls selling “papaya salad” at Sompet market in Chiang Mai

as the end of the day approaches, many stalls that prepare meals or simple snacks start to appear in the streets

rotee… a kind of crepe, but with a very thin dough based on rice flour, which is stuffed with banana and can be drizzled with chocolate or condensed milk; You can also opt for the vegetarian option. Despite the similarities with the French crepe, this snack comes from Malaysia and most of the sellers who are in Thailand, of Muslim origin

Papaia Salad, feita com papaia verde, cortada em tiras finas, juntamente com cenoura e pepino, e que é envolvida num molho picante feito à base de chili, alho e algusn molhos — Papaya Salad, made with green papaya, cut into thin strips, together with carrot and cucumber, which is wrapped in a hot sauce made from chili, garlic, and some sauces

Um dos muitos caris que a dá fama à gastronomia tailandesa, sempre acompanhados de arroz. Podem ser servidos numa espécia de sopa, em taças e que aos poucos se deita sobre o arroz ou nesta versão, menos liquida — One of the many curries that make Thai cuisine famous, always accompanied by rice. They can be served in a kind of soup, in bowls and gradually poured over rice or in this version, less liquid

Sopa de noodles vegetariana — Vegetarian noodle soup

Caril de marisco, vendido nos mercados para ser consumido em casa ou no trabalho, juntamente com o arroz vendido em doses individuais e embrulhado em sacos de plastico — Seafood curry, sold in markets to be eaten at home or at work, along with rice sold in individual doses and wrapped in plastic bags

Gujarat food… vegetarian delights!

Although it is not easy to find in the rest of India and even less so in Indian restaurants in Europe, Gujarat cuisine is famous and a source of pride for its inhabitants. It dominates vegetarian food, more than in other places in India, and egg consumption is rare, with the exception of the Muslim community that remains meat and fish consumer.

The Gujarat food stands out for its sweet flavors that balance the spiciest curries and the strong presence of dairy products, which almost always accompany the meal, whether in the form of curd (yogurt), sweetened milk-based cream and the popular cham (buttermilk) which is the drink that usually accompanies meals, in a state where the dry law rules, that is, the sale and consumption of alcoholic beverages are prohibited.

Like the rest of the country, the chai, tea with milk, is very popular being consumed throughout the day, often serving for breakfast, as a pretext for a break, at the end of a meal or simply a pretext for two fingers of conversation. But the Gujarat chai is stronger, distinguished by its dark color and its intense spice flavor, where the “spicy” of ginger stands out.

Preparation of chai, made in pots placed under very high heat released by kerosene stoves, where the milk is boiled several times with tea, spices and crushed ginger

Dhai Dhokla: a previous dish variant, found only in Bhuj, to which is added yogurt and hot sauce that cuts the sweet taste of yogurt. It was an invigorating way to start the day as soon as we reached the city market.

Dhai wadha: kind of fluffy dumplings, which is served with yogurt and hot sauce, bringing a touch of powdered cumin that matches the sweetness of the yogurt.

a simple but delicious homemade meal prepared in the village of Dhordo in the north of Kutch, in the family home that provided us with a place to sleep, where thick and spicy dahl (stewed with lentils) is accompanied by kachari (beaten rice cooked with vegetables) and fine chapatis that are dipped in softened ghee (clarified butter).

Fafda: stall selling snacks, both sweet and savory, but mostly fried; in the foreground are the gathiya: crispy and spicy fritters made from grain flour

stall selling snacks, both sweet and savory, but mostly fried; in the foreground are the gathiya: crispy and spicy fritters made from grain flour

a kind of katchori but where the filling, instead of lentils, is sweet with a strong spicy aftertaste that gives these fried and crispy dumplings an addictive characteristic ... but only "located" in the city of Mandvi

cane sugar for sale at street markets and stalls

Dhokla: one of the most popular snacks in Gujarat, often eaten by tomorrow; made with flour and turmeric, steamed and seasoned with curry leaves and mustard grains. It can be eaten plain accompanied by fried chili peppers, or drizzled with sugary yogurt.

Kutchhi Dabeli: perhaps the most popular fast food in Gujarat, which by name has its origins in the Kutch area, but which can be found everywhere, in small restaurants and street stalls; it is a small hamburger bread (pav), toasted and stuffed with a potato-based paste seasoned with a mixture of spices called dabeli that gives the mixture an intensely red color. Accompanying the chaas, (buttermilk) a kind of slightly fermented milk, close to yogurt but more liquid.

Fast food restaurant preparing breakfast, often bhajis (fried vegetables wrapped in grain flour) and dhokla with chai

Lassi: drink based on beaten yogurt, with sugar, but which can also be salted. This is a variant with a rose aroma and decorated with dried fruits. Lassi is found throughout India and is usually eaten as a snack

Poha: steamed rice flakes, wrapped and seasoned with a mixture of spices, the saffron that gives color to this snack stands out, often consumed as breakfast; it is served accompanied by a spicy sauce and fried chilies.

Street snacks: a sample of the many options of food that can be found on the streets of the cities of Gujarat, and also all over India, which can serve as breakfast, meal or as a snack between lunch and dinner. A mixture of pakoras (fried based on grain flour and vegetables of which there are many variants) and crunchy lentil dumplings.

Sweets … like most Indian sweets in Gujarat, sugar has a strong and heavy presence; however, the aromas of saffron and cardamom and other spices, many of which are made from milk and ghee (clarified butter that gives a very particular flavour) or using grain flour; sometimes with pistachio, almonds and cashews… burfi, ladoo, gulab, mesu …. the names have been forgotten but there was a delicious memory !!!

Doces... — One of the varieties of burfi!

Food for sale at the stations for breakfast: fried dumplings stuffed with a mixture of vegetables similar to the samosas and served with fried chilies.... good to wake up !!! — Food for sale at the stations for breakfast: fried dumplings stuffed with a mixture of vegetables similar to the samosas and served with fried chilies…. good to wake up !!!

The complete meal, which is called thali, usually composed of rice, vegetable curry and a lentil-based broth (dhal) but in Gujarat gains another refinement and complexity, with a greater variety of curries, vegetables, grain, etc. … some with a sweet taste, others soft and rich in spices, reaching the very spicy.

In the large metallic plate that starts empty, the small bowls are filled with various curries, curd (yogurt) and sweets, reserving space for salty and spicy chutneys, and sometimes pieces of dhokla.

Traditionally, the meal is served with papad (a crispy cracker of grain flour) and accompanied by chapatis (flatbread), always in large quantities; only a portion of rice is served at the end. Throughout the meal several employees pass to refill the plate, bringing more chapatis until “say enough” !!!

The drink served with thali is chaas (buttermilk, made from milk) that can be sweet or salty and seasoned with powdered cumin.

I can say that the food in Gujarat left a yummy and memorable memory… and it’s so easy to be a vegetarian in Gujarat!!

I miss it!!

6 weeks in Japan: itinerary & costs

Itinerary:

Tokyo: 5 days
Noboribetsu (Hokkaido): 2 days
Hakodate (Hokkaido): 2 days
Nikko: 4 days
Kamakura: 4 days
Kawaguchiko (Mount Fuji): 3 days
Hiroshima: 1 day
Yakushima: 4 days
Osaka: 2 days
Koyasan: 4 days
Tanabe and Yunomine (Kumano Kodo trail): 6 days
Kyoto: 4 days

My trip didn’t exactly follow this sequence from north to south, mostly because I had a 21 days JP Rail Pass, so I use it to make the longest trips (like Hokkaido and Yakushima, stopping in a few places along the way), leaving the Kansai region (Osaka, Koyasan, Kumano Kodo and Kyoto) for the end of the trip where the bus trips are more frequent and sometimes are the only option.

The weekends and especially the holidays also influence the trip plan, pushing me sometimes to temporary skip some places because the budget accommodations were fully booked, choosing a less crowded destination, and go there after the busy days. It happened in Nikko and Kamakura, which are a popular destination on the weekends as they are to Tokyo.

I always try to stay more than one night in each place… there was one exception, Hiroshima, that intended to be a break in a long trip between Mount Fuji and Yakushima.

Costs:

48 €/day

including:

food: 13 €/day (choosing options without meat or fish products)
accommodation: 23 €/day
transports: 21 €/day

This transport average includes the JP Rail pass that I bought in advance on-line and it cost 518€ for 21 days, as also the local bus and metro tickets, the private railway lines (Kawaguchiko, Koyasan) and the Yakushima ferry and Kumano Kodo buses; it doesn’t include the flights.

It’s included a SIM card and internet for all days.

In terms of accommodation, I stay always in dorms. In Japan the standard is high and all the places where I stay offer very comfortable conditions, some with bunk beds other more like a capsule hotel.

In terms of food, I usually made one meal a day with food from the supermarket; I’m not meaning instants soups and so on, but proper fresh meals that have a good quality in Japan.

In touristic activities, I spent around 4€ a day, and that include lots of temples and a few museums but mostly onsen, the Japanese style hot springs of which I became completely addicted and made up more than half of my expenses in this category.

In hygiene, there’s not much to spend as all the hostels provide shampoo, shower gel, conditioner and toilet paper.

Laundry costs around 100¥ (less than one euro) but in some places is free.

Kyoto… enough of crowds!

I didn’t visit much of the Kyoto sightseeing during the four days that I spent there… maybe because it was the last stop od a 40 days trip in Japan, and felt that there will not be many surprises… maybe because I spent the previous nine days in nature, hiking in Koyasan and in Kumano Kodo made harder the transitions to the city lifestyle … or maybe because I found Kyoto crowded!!!

And in fact, most of the tourist attractions are overcrowded, with the streets that lead to the principal attractions being flooded with people and endless souvenirs shops.

But I must surrender to that fact that the Gion area, where the city climbs gently the hill ending at the majestic Buddhist temple Kiyomizu-dera, with its narrow streets flanked by wooden houses, the machiya, that preserve the simple and elegant traditional architecture of Kyoto townhouses.

Wandering along the city of Kyoto is possible to see many temples and shrines, sometimes discreetly hidden in busy commercial streets where most of the people pass by without even notice. These hidden places maybe don’t have the historical significance or an astonishing architecture that attracts crowds of visitors, but the quietness and the simplicity that you can find in small temples and shrines offer a peaceful atmosphere that you can’t find in the crowded temples.

In the same area, there are two other to check that don’t stand up in the architectural or historical importance but that is very popular among the Japanese visitors. The Yasaka Koshindo is a Buddhist temple that is being slowly absorbed by small colorful toys made in a colorful fabric that represents the Kukurizaru monkey with bound feet and hands that people hand all around the temple.

It’s common in Japanese Buddhist temples to buy small wooden plaques – ema – where people write their prayers or wishes and hang them in a specific place in the temple or shrine, to be taken by the kami, spirits or gods that according to the tradition are believed to receive them. At Yasaka Koshindo the ema is almost a phenomenon covering almost all the small shrine and spreading quickly to the main temple. The women play this ritual (I don’t know why there were just young women there) in great excitement, dressing rented kimonos, ending the tour to the temple with the usual selfie!!!

Not far from there, the Yasui Konpiragu, a small Shinto shrine has also something unique: a big granitic stone with a hole that according to the belief can erase the …memories from a past relationship and bring good luck to the start of a new one. For that, is necessary to crawl through the hole in both ways. Before is necessary a bit of ritual, sticking a paper with the prayer in the stone that is already totally covered with paper!

Part of the ritual of a Kyoto trip is to dress the traditional kimono that is possible to rent for a day in the endless number of shops that you find in the Gion area. It’s a popular thing not only for foreigners but also among Japanese tourists that visit Kyoto, to experience the Japanese tradition in the ancient capital.

Moving away from central Kyoto, the most popular destination is the Arashiyama area, where a few significant Buddhist temples and a packed bamboo groove attract thousands of people that come here on a day trip. The area has a lot to offer and the location near the river makes it a very crowded place, practically on the weekends.

I confess that didn’t really enjoy that much Arashiyama probably because of the crowds and the high concentration of selfie-sticks… or maybe because I’ve seen similar places like this before, but still there was something that made it worth the trip (about one hour by bus): the Otagi Nembutsu-ji, a Buddhist temple from the XII century. It really worths the walk up the hill to reach this place, where the high level of humidity creates the conditions for the growth of a think moss layer that covers stones and temples.

The ground around the Otagi Nembutsu-ji temple is fill up with stone-carved statues, about 1200. Pilgrims that come here to learn to carve under the guidance of Kocho Nishumura, an artist that becomes a monk, made these statues during the past century

All of these statues are different and represent rakan, Buddha followers, in different poses and facial expressions, from serious prayers to a hilarious laughing. Otagi Nembutsu-ji It’s not out of the beaten track but definitely is away from the big crowds that flood the Arashiyama area. On the way, there’s also the Saga Toriimoto, a street that preserves the traditional architecture and where you can stop in one of the teahouses to enjoy local Japanese sweets, most of them filled with bean paste.

Leaving behind the funny stone statues, you can reach another temple, the Adashino Nenbutsuji where the maples tree shows the different red tones of the autumn foliage that surround the cemetery. Adashino Nenbutsuji also has a bamboo grove, smaller but way less crowded than the Sagano Bamboo forest, nearby Arashiyama Station.

**Bamboo Grove at Adashino** **Nenbutsuji, small and less popular than the one close to Arashiyama**

The Seiryo-ji, another Buddhist temple, where a gigantic prayer wheel richly decorated with paintings, which is rare to find, which goes unnoticed by most of the people who head straight for the grand hall.

**prayer wheel at Seiryo-ji Temple in Arashiyama**

But what really stand up in Kyoto was the Fushimi-Inari Taisha, a Shinto temple located about 2.5 km southeast from Kyoto station, dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice and sake, that has foxes as messengers, which statues you can be seen everywhere guarding the entrance of shrines, as also in small images in the endless souvenirs shops along the street that links Fushimi-Inari Taisha with the closest stain station (Inari Station).

The temple itself if impressive by is size but what is really catchy are the 4 km maze of paths that go up and down through the forest that ends up in the summit Mount Inari, from where you can have a good view to Kyoto.

But Fushimi-Inari Taisha is famous for the photogenic torii, which are the iconographic image of this place. The torii is a kind of gate, made traditionally in wood, which is located at the entrance of Shinto sacred places and shrines, symbolically marking the transition between the mundane to the sacred.

Along the way that leads to Mount Inari there is more than 10.000 torii – yes, ten thousand!!! – offered by several companies asking for success in business as Inari as the patron of business. In some parts of the trails, the concentration of torii is so high that it forms a kind of tunnel that a kind of warp the paths, filtering the light and creating a mysterious atmosphere. The intense and bright red color of the torii contrasts with the green of the forest that densely covers all the area, making the walk along the trails as a kind of symbolic initiatory experience where one can enter the world of the supernatural at any time. Cearings open in particular sacred locations, where stone-carved fox statues that look like they are protecting the place guard dozen of moss-covered small shrines.

The entrance is free, and despite the crowd that you’ll find at the entrance of the temple and along the first meters of the trails, most of the visitors don’t hike the 4 km that go up and down the Mount Inari.

Where to sleep in Kyoto:

TheGuest House Taiko-ya Bettei is a Kyoto’s traditional townhouses, machiya, with more than 180 year-old, build in wood, around a small garden. The location, despite being a bit far from the Kyoto Station (one metro stop) is a walking distance from the more popular areas like the Nisiki fish market, the Yanaka temple, Gion, etc… And without luggage is also a walking distance from the Kyoto station!!

It’s a quiet local neighborhood with supermarkets and restaurants close by.

The dorm is not so attractive as it is located in a new characterless building, but the rooms have tatamis and futon beds in the traditional Japanese style. In the winter it was a bit uncomfortable as to reach the toilets and shower you need to cross the garden but there’s something cozy in this house that made me enjoy the days that I spent there.

Where to eat in Kyoto:

Like any big city, Kyoto has a lot of options for all budgets and for all kinds of food. I stick to the traditional Japanese food, where the udon was the main choice, mainly because I like it a lot as also it’s a dish that can be found without meat or fish… although, the broth has probably some fish products!!!

Here’s the result of my gastronomic experience in Kyoto:

Eishotei: this small restaurant is located nearby the Shijo Kawaramachi intersection. It doesn’t have a sign in western characters but inside you can find the menu in English. This udon comes with a thicker style of broth, that it worth to eat until the end… as usually in Japan the broth is left in the bowl after finishing the noodles. Casual and cheap. A Udon with egg cost around 850 ¥.

Okaru also very small, this casual restaurant is located close by the Gion-Shijo station. It’s famous for its curry udon where the noodles come with a very thick and spicy broth; it can be topped with cheese, that is good but isn’t really necessary at it cuts a bit the curry flavors. It costs around 850 ¥ but can be more expensive if you choose a dish with meat or the curry udon with cheese (1150 ¥).

For a okonomiyaki, a typical Kansai dish, Mr. Young Men, close by the Shijo Kawaramachi intersection, is a very local choice, being full most of the time. The place is not very attractive at the first glance, old and a bit messy, but has a lot of character thanks to Mr. Young Men that is an artist behind the stove preparing the food with mechanical and precise movements of those who have been doing it for a long time.

Also for a okonimiyaki, the Donguri restaurant (located close by the Sanjo Dori bridge) is a good reference. It’s a bit more sophisticated and also more expensive but where you can have a meal for less than 1000 ¥.

okonimiyaki

At the Pontocho alley there are plenty of restaurants, most of them only open for dinner… join the crowd that line outside, which usually is a good sign of the quality of the food!

In the Arashiyama area, close to the Seiryo-ji Temple, there’s a tofu factory that sells different kinds of tofu for taking away. There isn’t a sign in western characters but it’s easy to identify the place by the people the line in the front of the shop.

Tofu Factory at Arashiyama

Stepping out of Babylon

Itinerary:

Costs:

Where to sleep in Kyoto:

Where to eat in Kyoto:

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