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Stepping Out Of Babylon

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Destinations

How to go from Singapore to Malaysia by bus

Between Kampong Glam and Little India, at the end of Arab Street, at the intersection with Queen Street, before Rochor Canal, there is a small Queen Street Bus Terminal (or Ban San Bus Terminal).

From here daily buses depart bound for Johor Bahru (most southern city of Malaysia) where they also run buses to Kuala Lumpur and Melaka.

The bus journey to Melaka (Malacca) takes 3.30h but may take longer depending on the time it takes to pass the immigration services. From the Malaysian side the process takes less than 1 minute to obtain the stamp of 30 or 90 days without costs. From the Singapore side the process took close to one hour with long lines, probably because it was a Sunday, and many people come to Singapore in a week-end trip.

Terminal located in Queen Street Bus Terminal (or Ban San Bus Terminal) to “707-inc” company has buses bound for Melaka Sentral (Melaka interstate Bus terminal) at the following times: 08:30, 09:00, 11:00, 13:30, 15:30 and 19.00h .

Ticket: 23 S$

http://www.707-inc.com/

Woodlands Crossing
Woodlands Crossing

Singapore, is not just about shopping!

What stands out in a first walk through the wide, wide avenues of Singapore is a succession of shops and shopping centers, located in buildings of modern and audacious architecture that in common have the huge height, which are the symbol of this an island-country-state-city.

But a longer route shows the most attractive side of this place: the ethnic and cultural diversity, which brings together in harmonious coexistence Chinese, Malays and Indians to which are added many immigrants from neighboring Asian countries, which account almost 20% of the 5.4 millions of citizens. Singapore also attracts many Westerners who work in multinational companies that have here headquarters or delegations, as the “Lion City” (singa means lion in Sanskrit) is recognized as one of the sites that offer the best conditions for deployment, growth and success of a company.

The success story of this territory began with the British presence you saw here, in the eighteenth century ,a strategic location on the trade route between East and West, offering natural conditions for the location of a port, making this island passed from one village dedicated to fishing for an important trading post. After the Japanese invasion that ended with the end of World War II, Singapore became independent after a short time under the “flag” of “Federation of Malaysia” which included the Peninsular Malaysia, Sarawak and Sabah, on Borneo. The independence of Singapore, which in 2015 celebrates 50 years, was not on its own initiative, but resulted from intense ethnic conflicts, which have led the Federation to decide to “kick out” Singapore, preventing the spread of these conflicts to the remaining territory. In a small territory without many natural resources, where even the water is supplied by Malaysia, the government option was to create economic policies to attract foreign investment.

In a country so new and multicultural, where 74% of the population is ethnic Chinese, 13% Malaysian and 9% of Indian origin, is there a Singaporean identity?! Yes, there is, precisely from this ethnic and religious diversity, where tolerance is based on accelerated economic growth, where hundred of commercial surfaces bustling with consumers reflect the bet of this political system that governs Singapore, where economic success hides the restriction of certain freedoms, in a country where there is the death penalty and corporal punishment. However this repressive policy results in low crime and high safety, with citizens to give up some of their privacy and accepting the permanent surveillance of CCTV cameras that are a constant in the city, whether shops, coffee-hops, restaurants, markets, malls, hotels, metro, hostels, at the entrance of buildings, in streets, etc…

Singapore
Singapore

 

Singapore
Singapore

 

Singapore
Singapore

 

Chinatown. Singapore
Chinatown. Singapore

 

Singapore
Singapore

 

 

Singapore
Singapore

 

Singapore
Singapore

 

Singapore
Singapore

Although very modern, according to Western standards, where everything is planned and thought of forming a “perfect”, safe and predictable environment, it is impossible to hide that we are in Asia… the markets, the food, the smells, the bustling of urban life.

But the most attractive in this city-state is the cultural diversity, which is visible all over the place, but that becomes important in certain areas where greater concentration of a particular ethnic group; in the case of Chinatown, Little India and Arab Quarter, where you will feel immediately the differences, as if three or more generations have not been enough to erase the traditions, religions and customs, keeping each group bustling of a very strong identity, where the language is the best example. English is lingua-franca, but Mandarin, Malay and Tamil are also official languages, is common each individual speak two languages: English and corresponding to their own ethnic group.

Obviously these neighborhoods attract the population of these ethnic groups, both Singaporeans and immigrants, who find here their culture, temples, language, food, clothing, etc… And remarkably, arriving to Little India, after a quick subway ride where the vehicles move without driver, and we find the same rhythm, the same smells, the same tastes, the same products in grocery markets, the food served in the same metal plates, the same sahrees, the same lungis, the same ringing bells in temples… where everything takes us immediately to India.

Little India
Little India. Singapore

 

Little India
Little India. Singapore

 

Little India
Little India. Singapore

The so-called Arab Quarter (Kampong Glam), which in Arabic has essentially the carpet traders but where you also can find some restaurants of Turkish and Iranian food, is ideal place to enjoy traditional Malaysian dishes, which dominates the meat, but which is not served pork according to Muslim tradition, an area where shines the Golden rood of Majid Sultan mosque. Curiously nearby this area, in the sophisticated and hipster Bugis are located a popular bar zone, along Haji Lane.

Kampong Glam. Singapore.
Kampong Glam. Singapore.

 

Kampong Glam. Singapore.
Kampong Glam. Singapore

 

Kampong Glam. Singapore
Kampong Glam. Singapore

 

Kampong Glam. Singapore.
Kampong Glam. Singapore

In Chinatown, buzzing activity around the food, either in restaurants or in food-courts, which are the most economical option and the one that attracts most of the local population, creating a buzz that is not only limited to dining hours, a concept that Asia is quite extensive. The streets of Chinatown arise organized and perfectly clean teashops, pharmacies of Traditional Chinese Medicine products and shops selling bird-nest (nests with saliva swallows or other bird) that are one of the specialties of Chinese cuisine, also with medicinal effects, constituting one of the most expensive foods in the world.

In Chinatown, along South Bridge Road, in just over 500 meters is the Jamae Majid mosque, Hindu temple Sri Mariamman and the Buddhist temple Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. This last one appears more grandiose than the others, with a stately temple with hundreds of Buddha images, which dominates the ground floor of the building, which also houses a museum, a canteen, the room where the relic is kept and a garden located on the terrace, which is a small paradise. Daily at different times of the day, the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, monks chant hypnotic songs that fill the space of a mystical atmosphere that gives an even brighter glow to the rich decoration of the temple.

Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple
Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

 

Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple
Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

 

Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple
Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

 

Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple
Singapore. Chinatown. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

 

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Chinatown. Sin gapore
Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Chinatown. Sin
gapore

But the place that makes us forget for a moment that we’re in Singapore, is located next to Chinatown Visitor Center, behind the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, where daily gather men that spend here most of the day playing cards and chess, chatting, reading the newspaper or simply sleeping. On Sundays the plaza nearby becomes a dance floor, with music provided by loudspeakers that attracts several generations of men and women who gather here to perform elaborate choreographies.

Chinatown
Chinatown
Chinatown
Chinatown

 

Chinatown
Chinatown

 

Chinatown
Chinatown

Wafles Place, is the financial center of Singapore, which accounts for the largest buildings in the city, creating the famous sky-line dominate by skyscraper that is the image of Singapore and successful economic policy, in a country that the World Bank considers the “Easiest place to do business.” The dark streets of Wafles Place whose buildings hide the sun’s rays, circulate men in white shirt and gray business suits, a sober bustle.

Wrafles Place. Singapore
Wrafles Place. Singapore

 

Wrafles Place. Singapore
Wrafles Place. Singapore

 

Wrafles Place. Singapore
Wrafles Place. Singapore

Despite dominating buildings, boulevards and highways the city has plenty of green areas, where trees are quite common along the streets, adding some areas reserved for natural parks, furthest from the center, which retain some wildlife. The Botanic Gardens, millimeter organized with the thoroughly identified plant specimens are worth a visit and serve as a nice walk. The tropical climate of Singapore creates optimal conditions for vegetation with temperatures close to 30°C and humidity above 80%, with constant climate throughout the year, and frequent storms that bring rain and further increase the humidity.

Botanical Gardens
Botanical Gardens

Next to the Marina Bay, behind the iconic set of buildings Marina Bay Hotel, is another great green spot but a more artificial and entertainment approach, with the SuperTree Grove, a set of metal structures shaped trees, covered by vegetation that are lit in the evening earning fantastic colors.

Gardens by the Bay. Supertree Grove
Gardens by the Bay. Supertree Grove

 

Gardens by the Bay. Supertree Grove
Gardens by the Bay. Supertree Grove

 

Bayfront. Singapore
Bayfront. Singapore

 

Esplanade Theatres. Singapore
Esplanade Theatres. Singapore

 

Bayfront. Singapore
Bayfront. Singapore

Apart from the skyscraper, there are many niches where the old town, dominated by shophouses (buildings with ground floor for trade and housing above) typical Chinese influence, remain impeccably preserved, housing various commercial activities, highlighting shops and restaurants, which with its 5 foot inn (sidewalks under the arches formed by the first floor of shophouses) are the most attractive areas for walking around the city, but that invariably culminate in wide and rectilinear avenues where organized traffic flows quietly .

Shophouses. Singapore
Shophouses. Singapore

 

Shophouses. Singapore
Shophouses. Singapore

 

Shophouses. Singapore
Shophouses. Singapore

 

Shophouses. Singapore
Shophouses. Singapore

Singapore a city-state, technologically modern, planned and organized, where coexist harmoniously different cultures, ethnicities and religions, where everything is controlled by CCTV, where the wi-fi is available for free in almost all locations, where for eating in the subway you can get a fine, which the ever present air-conditioning almost makes one forget the tropical climate, where succeeded economy relies on migrant labor and where the wealthy population keeps entertained shopping.

 

Free activities in Singapore:

In an expensive city and where almost all the entertainment and tourist sites is charged entrance, you can find in Singapore free activities:

  • SuperTree Grove, and part of the Garden By the Bay
  • Botanical Gardens
  • Concert at the Esplanade Theaters
  • Lion Dance Performace (Pagoda St)
  • Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

Accommodation:

The accommodation in Singapore, a city struggling for lack of space, represents the largest share of the budget, so the hostels, offering dorms with 4 or more beds are the most popular and economical option.

And it’s not hard to find hostels in Kampong Glam, Little India or Chinatown, but where the price per night is never less than 20S$.

5 foot way inn … a concept made of small rooms, almost all with bunk beds, air-conditioning, en-suite shared, breakfast included (bread, cereal, milk, margarine, sweet and fruit); a machine serving coffee, tea, cappuccino, chocolate milk, etc… is available all day.

These hostels share the same concept, minimum dimensions of rooms, most without windows, lined up in narrow corridors forming a labyrinth, occupying old shophouses; intended primarily for short term stays, for who spends most of his time touring in the city, but also being used for those who come here on business.

5 foot way inn is located in various parts of the city with different standards in terms of quality and comfort, and with different prices. Prices vary from day to day, with higher values ​​at the weekend or when occupancy is higher. Reservations can not be made at reception and to use the web-site or send an email to the reservation center.

The choice went to Chinatown 2 and the Bugis situated next to Kampong Glam. Prices per night range between 20 S$ and 30 S$ for a 4 bed dorm.

 

5footway.inn Project Bugis

Address: 10 Aliwal Street, Bugis, Singapore 199903

5footway.inn Project Chinatown 2

Address: 227 South Bridge Rd, Singapore 058776

http://www.5footwayinn.com/

 

5footway.inn Project Bugis
5footway.inn Project Bugis

 

5footway.inn Project Chinatown 2
5footway.inn Project Chinatown 2

 

5footway.inn Project Chinatown 2
5footway.inn Project Chinatown 2

 

5footway.inn Project Bugis
5footway.inn Project Bugis

 

5footway.inn Project Bugis
5footway.inn Project Bugis

 

5footway.inn Project Bugis. Contacts
5footway.inn Project Bugis. Contacts

 

5footway.inn Project Chinatown 2. Contacts
5footway.inn Project Chinatown 2. Contacts

Transportation:

The best way to move around in Singapore is the MRT, the underground, covering efficiently the city, with regular services. Comfortable, quick and easy orientation.

In tickets can be brought in machines of stations halls and with the first trip you get a card by additional charge of 0.10 S$, that can be reused a maximum up to 6 travel and the amount paid for the card is refunded at the end of the third recharge. One can purchase round-trip ticket, that if not totally used you can ask for refund at ticket counters.

The cost of travel is proportional to the distance with a minimum of 1.4 S$ (Singaporean Dollar).

Buses are also modern and comfortable and allow you to see the city while moving.

Singapore. MRT.
Singapore. MRT.

 

Mrt. singapore
Mrt. singapore

Bako National Park

Bako is Malaysia’s oldest National Park, established in 1957 and takes its name from the muddy river nearby which flows into the waters of the South China Sea.

Even before arriving at the park, the route taken by the river provides a memorable landscape with the soft morning light shining on the almost still waters of the river Bako, which forms a mirror that merges with the sky and where the skyline fades in presence of a thin layer of mist that emanates from the hot waters of the river.

There are several possible paths to be covered in a day trip, and others that require more time to dwell at least one night in the park. During this visit* the western part of the park was closed to visitors, but the one third that is open offer many options, with 10 possible tracks.

The choice was to Litang Trail with 5.8 kilometers and that it was done in about three hours that left time to do part of the trail to Telok Paku, which despite its simple ones 800 meters has more obstacles and takes a long time.

The Litang Trail is what goes over the forest, with diverse landscapes, from dense and humid jungle, until hot and dry rocky plateaus. As November is already time of much rain the track was soaked in water, but not muddy, as soil is predominantly sandy. Towards the end of the course,

The Telok Paku is offering more chances to observe wildlife especially Proboscis monkey, but given the number of visitors, some quite noisy, the chances of observing animals is reduced, beyond ants and small insects.

Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

But what truly marked this visit was the route at Litang Trail, where during about three hours, I could walk through the wilderness without finding other visitors and can thus enjoy a more intense contact with nature, in which the mind focused on the walk, on foot movement and on rhythm of the breath, gets empty of thoughts.

In total isolation the jungle noises bring the fears and ghosts that we try to hide with the frantic pace of life, making the forest show us his danger and spooky side. But accepting the power of nature we are conducted and cherished by the energy and power that emanates from these trees, making us feel part of this magic that we call Nature. Mother Nature.

This was the most interesting and impressive experience in natural parks, leaving an intense memory of those hours spent in close contact with the jungle. A bless provided but the deep forces of the jungle.

* November 2015

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Litang Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo
Telok Paku Trail. Bako National Park. Sarawak. Borneo

 

Accommodation:

The Baku National Park is located near Kuching so it can be visited on a day-trip. However it is possible to stay in the accommodations near the park headquarters. It should be reserved.

Where to eat:

At the entrance of the park near the headquarters there is a cafeteria. However for a day-trip just take some fruit and water. Water is fundamental and 1.5 liters per person, is not too much.

Equipment and guidance:

The tracks are fairly easy and affordable, with the hardest part being the first 500 meters that are common to all the tracks, with some steepness overtake by stairs and by paths between tree, roots and rocks.

All trails are well marked with the respective color, painted on rocks and trees shillings, being almost impossible to get lost. The Litang Trail has marks 100 at 100 meters with the distance made, which not only facilitates orientation as also the determination of the effort and the pace of the hike. The final part of the trail, on arrival at headquarters is done on flat wooden platforms.

The Telok Paku Trail doesn’t have these milestones, but is very well defined, with parts of the route on wooden platforms and stairs that facilitate the passage in the steepest areas.

In terms of equipment it isn’t necessary anything special, not even hiking boots. A sneakers, running shoes or sandals works perfectly in this kind of trails. Some parts of the trails have some water that you can’t avoid.

The heat and humidity make you sweat profusely, so all clothing quickly get soaked.

Must bring mosquito repellent as they are a fierce presence in more wetlands route.

Plenty of water to drink.

It is not necessary a guide.

Bako National Park. Map
Bako National Park. Map

How to get from Kuching to Bako National Park:

The bus to Bako Park passes in Jalan Market by the Chinese History Museum, but in this place there is no indication or houses to indicate that buses stop here; a little further on, at Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman in front of the building Riverside Shopping Center there is another stop.

The bus passes at about 7:00 am and the trip takes about an hour.

Bus Ticket: 3.5 RM

The terminal bus route in Bako Bazaar, a small cluster of houses where the reception Bako Park. Here you buy the ticket for the park as well as the ticket for the boat that transports visitors to the official entry of parquet where are the headquartes. The boat is the only way to get to the park and part of a small pier near the reception of the park.

Park fee: 20 RM

Boat: RM 20 one way; the return ticket has to be purchased in headquartes the park and should be purchased in advance for the boats that leave in the afternoon are quickly filled; the last boat is at 16.00).

The boat trip takes about 10 minutes.

If the tide is low the boat does not reach the small pier, taking passengers to disembark on the beach. The same is true in return.

By the headquartes is provided map and all information on the various tracks, including degree of difficulty, duration and length of the course.

In the end it is necessary to book the boat for the return, and pay the ticket next to headquartes.

Buses leave from Bako Bazaar to Kuching every hour, and the last is at 18:00 hours.

Bus Stop in Kuching to Bako National Park in front of Riverside Shopping Center
Bus Stop in Kuching to Bako National Park in front of Riverside Shopping Center

 

Bako Terminal
Bako Terminal

 

Bako National Park. Boat Ticket
Bako National Park. Boat Ticket

Please note: the climate is hot and extremely humid and not always the rails have plenty throughout the length of the course, which causes profuse sweating and fluid loss, so drinking water is extremely important.

Orangutan… men of the Jungle

In the local language “orang-utan” means the “men of the jungle” and they are the ones that feature in the dense jungle of Borneo, with its orange plumage, movements and relaxed and confident presence.

Are spread almost everywhere in the island of Borneo, both Malaysia and Indonesian side where their habitat was not yet destroyed by men, by logging for exotic woods trade or by the massive planting of palm trees for palm oil production. But as these creatures are not easy to find and the jungle not let easily being invade, the options was to visit the Semenggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre, located a few kilometers south from Kuching.

This center is housed in a nature reserve collects orang-utans victims or left orphans by man actions, keeping the animals in the wild, only providing food in two specific locations, to which the animals flock in search of easy food especially during the season where there’s less fruit on the trees around the park.

The presence of these mammals, totally relaxed and accustomed to human presence attracts all the attention of a few dozen people gathered at the point of observation, hearing the clicking of many cameras and i-phones, trying to catch the clumsy movements of the younger animals. The presence of these ” men of the jungle ” is not guaranteed, nor the number that each day is shown next to the feeding area, since they are in total freedom. On this day, in the middle of December, there were two of these lovely creatures, a female and a juvenile, in which the latter was keen to show some of their skills hanging on ropes and eating bananas upside down.

Orang-utans. Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Orang-utans. Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

 

Orang-utans. Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Orang-utans. Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

 

Orang-utans. Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Orang-utans. Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

 

Orang-utans. Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Orang-utans. Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

But the visit is not limited only to the “men of the jungle” may be wandering the various trails of the park without the need to travel long distances to feel the contact with nature and the power of the jungle. The constant humidity you feel, makes the pace slow and the body heavy, but gives time to enjoy the small details of the plant world that takes on a special glow and magical colors under the light filtered through the canopy of tall trees that hide the blue sky.

Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

 

Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

 

Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

 

Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

 

Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

 

Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

 

Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

 

Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

 

Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

 

Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

 

Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

 

Semenggoh Park. Sarawak
Semenggoh Park. Sarawak

How to get to Semenggoh Park

The Semenggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre is located 32 km south from Kuching, being easy reach by public transport. Buses leave the small terminal in downtown Kuching (Jalan Masjid or Mosque Jalang) and ends just opposite the entrance to the Semenggoh Park. Hence it is necessary to walk a paved road to the area where orangutans are feed, which takes about 15 minutes.

The bus leaves from Kuching to: 07.20h, 09.50h, 15.00h, 13:00h

On returning to Kuching the bus part of the Semenggoh: 08.20h, 11.05h, 16.05h 14.05h

The journey takes about 1 hour.

The bus ticket costs 4 RM.

Bus to Semenggoh Park. schedule. Kuching
Bus to Semenggoh Park. schedule. Kuching

To have opportunity to see the orang-utans should go at times when food is distributed:

Morning: 9.00 h

Afternoon: 15:00 h

However the park is open longer and worth a visit:

Morning: 8.00 to 11:00 h

Afternoon: 14.00 until 16.00

Ticket: 10 RM

Semenggoh Park. schedule. Kuching
Semenggoh Park. schedule. Kuching

 

Semenggoh Park. Tickets. Kuching
Semenggoh Park. Tickets. Kuching

Kuching… capital of Sarawak

The southern state of Malaysian Borneo’s Sarawak, being known by the cultural presence of the largest ethnic group in Sarawak, the Iban, famous for their longhouses, a sort of common home to several families and center of all the activity of a community, but currently they serve almost exclusively for tourism purposes.

But the city of Kuching pleasantly situated along the river, is a point of confluence of various cultures, with a strong British colonial presence visible in some buildings that are landmarks in the city for its whiteness and imposing architecture, and also by the religion where Christianity has a strong presence in contrast to the rest of the country were dominates Muslim religion. Along the Main Bazar align the shophouses, made for commercial proposes, but with the first floor reserved for housing, typical from the Chinese community that lives here for generations maintaining a very present culture. Not far is Little India (Jalang India), where along a street are concentrated shops, selling Indian products, grocery, clothing and textiles. In between some shops selling shirts and fabrics with traditional patterns of Indonesia.

But along the Main Bazaar many shops selling the crafts of the Iban culture, particularly woodcarving, baskets and weaving fabrics made with the typical geometric patterns of this ethnic group whose culture is being rapidly replaced by Malay culture.

Kuching means “cat” and everywhere there are references to these animals, either sculptures or street-art… but there are many cats in the neighborhood…

Kuching
Kuching

 

Kuching_DSC_4805
Governors house. Kuching

 

Kuching
Kuching

 

Kuching
Kuching

 

Kuching
Kuching

 

Kuching
Kuching

 

Kuching
Kuching

 

Kuching
Kuching

 

Kuching
Kuching

 

Chinese Temple. Kuching
Chinese Temple. Kuching

 

Iban Indigenous art. Kuching
Iban Indigenous art. Kuching

Sarawak and to sarawakians

The third largest island in the world is divided by three countries: Malaysia, Indonesia (which owns 73% of the territory) and Brunei (with 1% of the territory).

The long history of this territory what is now Malaysia, include Portuguese, Dutch, and English; with II World War came the Japanese troops and only in 1963 Malaysia became independent, grouping the Malaysia, Sarawak and Sabah, as also including Singapore, which two years later was excluded from this territory became independent.

During the British presence, particularly in the first half of the twentieth century it was strongly encouraged the arrival of immigrants from China and India, which soon doubled the population in the territory.

Currently 30 million people in Malaysia, 50% are Malays, 23% are Chinese, 12% indigenous, 7% Indian and the remaining 8% are resident but do not hold citizenship is common the presence of Indonesian immigrants.

Despite the apparent harmony and tolerance that exists between different ethnic groups, and even the country consider as the official religion Islam also accepts the practice of other believes, in reality there is a discrimination between Malay who hold power and the most important positions in administration of the country, and the other ethnic groups.

In Borneo, particularly in Sarawak, is evident a desire for autonomy or independence from Malaysia because the different indigenous population, all grouped under the name of Dayaks, do not consider themselves recognized as full citizens in relation to the largest ethnic group the Malays.

The Iban are the largest indigenous group in the region of Sarawak and struggle to maintain their culture, but currently few speak the native language that is not taught in schools, leaving the indigenous culture practically reserved for festivals and some handicrafts. With the British presence also animist practices that dominated the spirituality of these people has been replaced by Christianity. Very quickly this indigenous culture will be erased by the dominant Malay culture and the fast economic growth that the Malaysia governments are imposing in the country, based on the dilapidation of natural resources, affecting irremediably the jungle, the oldest rain forest in the world.

Malaysia flag on the left and Sarawak flag on the right
Malaysia flag on the left and Sarawak flag on the right

 

Kuching
Kuching

Accommodation:

Kuching offers a wide range in terms of accommodation and good options for backpackers, where it is not hard to find hostel with dormitories.

The choice was to Kuching a capital de Sarawak:

First floor, 3 Jalan Green Hill T082 / 237062

www.borneobnb.com

A double with en-suite: RM 65 (breakfast included, free wi-fi). Nice and friendly staff.

Laundry: one bag 10 RM, and ready in the same day.

Nomad Backpackers. Kuching
Nomad Backpackers. Kuching

 

Nomad Backpackers. Contacts. Kuching
Nomad Backpackers. Contacts. Kuching

 

Nomad Backpackers. Breakfast. Kuching
Nomad Backpackers. Breakfast. Kuching

 

Where to eat:

The center of activity in terms of restaurants is Chinatown (Jalang Carpenter) as also Jalang Padungan, situated further to the east.

But for more economic options is the restaurant situated along the Waterfront in the historic center of Kuching, a stretch of gardens along the river were the population gather and walk in the evenings. Here in the middle of some kiosks, stands one serving local food, made up by two nice Muslim girls: the Meeting Point. Opposite are some tables where you can enjoy the simple meal and nearby another kiosk sells drinks… ice-tea, ice-coffee, etc… The food is simple and good, based on rice or noodles but with vegetarian option; prices of around 5 MR.

Meeting Point Restaurant. Waterfronty Kuching
Meeting Point Restaurant. Waterfronty Kuching

Transport:

The town can be covered on foot, with the very compact historical center is developing around the Courthouse Building and Waterfront. Here you can easily reach up to Chinatown and Little India, the Sarawak Museum and the main mosques.

To visit Baku National Park or Nature Reserve is required Semmenggoh uses public transport. (see next posts)

Kota Kinabalu, a capital de Sabah

A Malásia divide-se em duas regiões: a chamada Malásia Peninsular, ou Malásia Ocidental e o Bornéu Malaio, situando-se na zona Oeste da ilha do Bornéu, sendo o lado Este pertencente à vizinha Indonésia.

O Bornéu Malaio, está dividido em dois estados, a norte Sabah e a Sul Sarawak, tendo-se mantido independente e governado por tribos até 1963, altura em que foi incorporado na Federação Malaia, tendo a cultura tribal, assim como as diferentes línguas e costumes sido rapidamente erodidos pela introdução da cultura da Malásia.

Situada junto ao mar, a região de Sabah foi local de comércio desde 700 D.C. com os Chineses a trocarem matérias primas com as tribos locais. No século XIV esta região passou a ser dominada pelo Sultão do Brunei que cedeu partes do território ao império Britânico que aqui fez comércio de tabaco, borracha e madeira, depois da passagem em 1521 do navegador português Fernão de Magalhães.

Kota Kinabalu é capital do estado de Sabah, e de todo este passado pouco resta depois dos bombardeamentos durante a II Guerra Mundial. O que se encontra é uma cidade moderna, organizada e dominada pelo betão, onde é evidente o gosto por superfícies comerciais e pela construção em altura que cria uma barreira entre o mar e a densa floresta que ainda domina o Bornéu, fortemente ameaçada pela plantação em regime de monocultura de palmeiras para extração de óleo de palma, uma das maiores exportações da Malásia.

Da cultura das tribos locais pouco ou nada se nota, sobrevivendo uma ou outra loja de artesanato local, numa cidade de betão com pouco para oferecer, para além da grande variedade gastronómica fruto da presença de grandes comunidades chinesas, e da comida malaia que por si apresenta influências indianas, tailandesas e indonésias.

O peixe e marisco têm lugar de destaque com o mercado situado junto ao pequeno porto a mostrar grande actividade em especial durante a manhã e ao fim da tarde, com uma grande variedade de peixes e de mariscos. Perto, o Central Market fervilha de agitação com centenas de bancas a vender e a confeccionar comida, sendo o local da cidade ideal para refeições e o também que oferece maior variedade e melhores preços.

Malaysia_Sabah_Kota Kinabalu_DSC_4540
Kota Kinabalu

 

Kota Kinabalu
Kota Kinabalu

 

Kota Kinabalu
Kota Kinabalu

Perto da zona denominada de Austrália Place existe um acesso pedonal que por escadas, cerca de 250 degraus, chega ao Signal Hill Observatory um mirador com vista sobre o Mar da China e as ilhas que formam o Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, mas cuja vista está fortemente comprometida pela construção de massivos edifícios que pouco já deixam ver da paisagem marítima.

Kota Kinabalu
Kota Kinabalu

 

Kota Kinabalu
Kota Kinabalu

 

Kota Kinabalu
Kota Kinabalu

 

Kota Kinabalu
Kota Kinabalu

 

Kota Kinabalu. Fish Market
Kota Kinabalu. Fish Market

 

Kota Kinabalu. Fish Market
Kota Kinabalu. Fish Market

 

Kota Kinabalu. Fish Market
Kota Kinabalu. Fish Market

A cidade é pequena e pode ser feita a pé, contudo os principais pontos de interesse situam-se afastados, como os parques naturais. O mais atractivo em redor de Kota Kinabalu é sem dúvida a natureza, sendo o Monte Kinabalu (Gunung Kinabalu) o ponto mais alto do Bornéu com cerca de 4000m; contudo a opção foi para as ilhas que formam o Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, situadas a cerca de 3 km de Kota Kinabalu. A escolha foi para um das mais pequenas Pulau Mamutik por oferecer um dos melhores locais para observação de corais e de vida marinha, não sendo necessário grande esforço ou equipamento para ver de perto peixes de fantásticas cores, deslocando-se por entre corais de diversas cores e formas e rochas cobertas de anémonas e outros seres marinhos.

Pulau Mamutik. Tunku Abdul Rahman Park
Pulau Mamutik. Tunku Abdul Rahman Park

 

Pulau Mamutik. Tunku Abdul Rahman Park
Pulau Mamutik. Tunku Abdul Rahman Park

 

Kota Kinabalu
Kota Kinabalu

A estadia em Kota Kinabalu for marcada pela chegada da monção em que os dias amanhecendo quentes e luminosos, se transformam em nublados com o céu a encher-se de pesadas e densas nuvens cinzentas que associadas a trovoadas descarregam sobre a cidade forte chuva que dura umas poucas horas. Passada a tempestade o ar fica mais fresco mas carregado de humidade, deixando um rastos de nuvens no céu que iluminadas pelas raios de sol do fim do dia enchem o céu de cores fantásticas.

Kota Kinabalu
Kota Kinabalu

 

Kota Kinabalu
Kota Kinabalu

 

Alojamento:

A zona da cidade denominada de Australia Place, situada na zona Este da cidade perto da Atkinson Clock Tower e da Lorong Dewan é onde se concentra a maioria das alojamentos para orçamentos backpackers, com dormitórios e com quartos duplos a rondar os 60 a 70 RM.

Também nesta zona se encontram cafés e restaurantes de estilo ocidental que oferecem um local agradável e calmo para passar umas horas saboreando um bom café, sofisticada pastelaria, com ar-condicionado e free wi-fi… se bem que um café num destes locais custa cerca de 10 RM (ringits)

 

Onde comer:

Sendo uma cidade junto à costa, o peixe e o marisco ocupa lugar de destaque na comida local, existindo vários restaurantes junto ao mar servindo marisco e peixe fresco, mas onde uma refeição pode custar mais de 80 ringits para duas pessoas.

Contudo o Central Market, um mercado a céu-aberto, onde as bancas protegidas por toldos constituem a opção mais económica oferecendo grande variedade de comida local, incluindo fruta, doces e sobremesas. Um fried-rice custa menos de 4 RM.

Na cidade existem muitas opções. Os locais favoritos foram o Fong Ip Café (cruzamento da Jalang Pantai com a Jalang Gaya) com comida chinesa e com opções malaias, e onde se destaca o laksa, uma espécie de caril à base de leite de côco, com noodles, tofu e gengibre e aqui é servido com camarão. Na esquina oposta, no Azlina Sulawesi de influência muçulmana, serve-se comida típica malaia, alguns caris tailandeses e onde se pode encontrar rotis, numa clara influência da comida do sul da Índia.

Atenção que o horário das refeições é limitado: apesar de se poder ter uma refeição durante todo o dia, com os restaurantes a abrirem pelas 7h da manhã é normal encerrarem pelas 21.30h.

 

Azlina Sulawesi
Azlina Sulawesi
Fong Ip Café
Fong Ip Café. Restaurante in Kota Kinabalu

 

coffee shop near "Australia Palace"
coffee shop near “Australia Palace”. Kota Kinabalu

 

Laksa
Laksa

 

Com o ir de Kota Kinabalu para Tunku Abdul Rahman Park

Das várias ilhas do parque a escolha foi para Pulau Mamutik por oferecer um dos melhores locais pára observação de corais e de vida marinha bastando para isso o tubo e os óculos de snorkeling que se podem alugar no local.

Os barcos partem de um pequeno cais junto o Central Market; o preço tem que ser negociado com os vários angariadores que se encontram no local e que dirigem aos turistas… a viagem ficou em 40 RM (ida e volta). O horário de volta é acordado com dono do barco.

Convém levar comida.

 

Como ir de Kota Kinabaludo para o Aeroporto:

Taxi custa 25 RM.

Existem autocarros que fazem a ligação entre Kota Kinabalu até ao Terminal 1 e Terminal 2 do aeroporto situado nos arredores de Kota Kinabalu.

A paragem de autocarros onde se inicia o serviço Airport Bus fica situada na Jalan Padang, perto do Merdeka Field. Para quem vem da Australia Place, caminhado 5 minutos, encontra estes autocarros depois de passar a Atkinson Clock Tower.

O primeiro é às 7.30am; entre as 9.00 h e as 19.00h saem de hora a hora, com o ultimo às 19.00h

Ticket: 5 ringits

 

Airport Bus
Airport Bus

 

Airpot Bus. tickets
Airpot Bus. tickets

Borneo. Singapore. Malaysia: itinerary & costs

Borneo: Kota Kinabalu and Kuching

Plane trip: 1.5 h

15 days

Kota Kinabalu to Kuching. Borneo. Malaysia
Kota Kinabalu to Kuching. Borneo. Malaysia

 

Map. Sarawak. Borneo. Malaysia
Map. Sarawak. Borneo. Malaysia

Singapore and Malaysia

1427 km (until Hay Yai, in Thailand) made by bus

15 days

Map Singapore and Malaysia
Map Singapore and Malaysia

30 days in Iran: itinerary & costs

Distance: 4100 km

Time: 30 days

Date: October 2015

Itinerary

  • Bazargan (Turkish border)
  • Tabriz: 3 days
  • Tehran: 4 days
  • Masuleh (and back to Tehran): 2 days
  • Kashan: 3 days
  • Esfahan (Isfahan): 3 days
  • Shiraz and Persepolis: 3 days
  • Yazd: 5 days
  • Fahraj (and back to Yazd): 2 days
  • Bam 2 days
  • Bandar Abbas: 1 day

 

Costs

15€/day

… one person travel alone, local food, public transportation

doesn’t include Visa fees

 

Iran. 30 days Itinerary
Iran. 30 days Itinerary
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I’m Catarina, a wanderer from Lisbon, Portugal… or a backpack traveller with a camera!

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