Nepal

Streets of Kathmandu

The streets of Kathmandu, despite the intense noise and the heavy pollution, that can create a strong negative impact on new visitors, always have something new and unexpected to offer.

The crowded streets gain a magic atmosphere with the light of the sunset, lightning up hidden corners and people’s faces. Old buildings facades standing out from the urban landscape, where the dust creates an almost permanent veil.
The morning markets, that daily fills up squares and narrow streets, gain a special atmosphere as soon as the first sun rays crawl over the dense and compact mass of buildings, giving a new intensity to the colors and bringing a new perspective to the scenery.

Walking along the mazy streets of the old part of Kathmandu, that get unbelievably crowded at dusk, can reveal a tough challenge. But at the same time it can reveal new routines of the daily life of the city… from the “puja” rituals to the washing of the clothes, from religious processions to the movement of the porters, from the fruits and vegetable hawkers to the marigold garland makers.

Even though we have passed countless times along the same street, bend the same corner, walk along the same path and pass by the same “stupa”… Kathmandu always has something that surprises us: a new light that changes familiar images, a new detail in the wood carving of a door, a new brightness that makes a normal color stand out, a smile filled with curiosity from a young face, the serious gaze of those who have seen many things, or just a new scent of a warm snack just coming out of a pan full of oil.

https://steppingoutofbabylon.com/wp/en/2016/09/a-guide-for-snacks-and-street-food-in-kathmandu/

https://steppingoutofbabylon.com/wp/en/2016/11/in-search-of-the-best-dal-bhat-in-kathmandu/

… In search of the best dal bhat in Kathmandu

Dal bhat, same as rice and lentils… this is maybe the most famous and eaten Nepali dish, being the staple food of most of the population. The dal bhat, in Nepal also called “khana” is a meal that includes a dal (lentils soup), a vegetable curry (tarkari), saag (stir fry green leaf vegetable). Radish pickle, gundruk, yogurt and hot tomato sauce are added to this dish that is always eaten with steamed rice… a lot of rice!!

Is basically a vegetarian meal but it can also be served with meat, mostly chicken… and at Nepal the consumption of meat is quite common.

It can be eaten as breakfast or as also lunch, and in restaurants is served along all day… but most have home made dal bhat! Usually, you can find dal bhat in restaurants just after 10 am.

Being Nepal a country with so many different cultures, topography, climates, traditions, also the dal baht reflect this diversity. The rice dominates most of the country cuisine, but very high in the mountains the rice is replaced by corn or maize, buckwheat, barley or millet.

Thakali is an ethnic group as also a region located in the farthest northeast of Nepal, close to the Tibetan border, at the high Himalaya. From this remote area comes the most popular version of dal bhat. The restaurants in Kathmandu from this kind of cuisine – thakali bhanchha – serve usually the dal bhat with rice and not with another kind of grains, as usual in the high mountain areas, but are a good option to try this speciality.

In Nepal, the dal bhat is served in a heavy brass plate, with the rice at the center with the curry, saag, salad and seasonings arranged around and with the dal in a small bowl, sometimes also in brass metal. In the non-vegetarian option, the meat is served also in a small bowl, and never in big portions.

***

One of my favourites restaurantes in Kathmandu to eat dal bhat is the Muktinath Thakali Kitchen right in the heart of Thamel, but not so visible and easy to find. Is famous between tourists but also very popular among Nepali people that assure the quality of the food!

Here the dal bhat is served with rice, which is not traditional in the Thakali region, but undoubtedly the rice is the most popular cereal in Nepal, and the Nepali can eat a lot of it at each meal 🙂

The dal bhat at Muktinath Restaurant is very rich, served according to the tradition: rice, curry, dal, saag, pickle, salad (just cucumber), spicy sauce… and a with a papad (crispy chips, made from dal and fry in oil). The curry is very tasty, usually not spicy, the dal has the touch of the ghee, and a good quality of rice, with a long grain… and this all cost 200 rupees (vegetarian option) and the staff is super friendly.

This dal bhat is served also yogurt and the gundruk, that for me is one of the main reasons to visit this place, as the gundruk, being a typical homemade season, but not so easy to find in restaurants.

Dal bhat served at the Muktinath Takali Restaurant

For a more local-underground-cheap version of dal bhat I strongly recommend the Om Restaurant also called as Om Bhava, located in s hidden backstreet of Thamel. The Dal Bhat at Om Bahava is not so rich as the one from Muktinath Kitchen as it comes without the papad and gundruk, but it worth to go there to taste the yummy taste of a homemade dal bhat that makes us forget that we are at a restaurant!

The place is simple and humble, the owner is super friendly smiley Nepali, never saying no to another refill of this amazing food! The price is also good: 130 rupees for the vegetarian option and 200 rupees for the one with chicken.

dal bhat from Om Restaurant. Thamel. Kathmandu

Dal

After rice, this is the core of a Nepali meal! The dal is basically a soup made with lentils, any kind of lentils seasoned with coriander, cumin and turmeric…. and a bit of fresh ginger that give a special flavor Sometimes, as the dal in Nepal is expensive, potatoes are added to this soup, make it thicker.

A spoon of ghee (clarified butter), if added, gives a special touch to this simple dish.

From the big variety of dal, my favorite one in the black dal, in Nepal called “maas ko dal”, from where results a thick and textured soup, where this small beans almost disappear due to the overcooking in a pressure pan. A bit of ginger always give a twist to this soup, bringing a sharpness to the taste.

Dal made from black dal...one of my favourits. Muktinath Takali Restaurant — Dal made from black dal…one of my favourits. Muktinath Takali Restaurant

Gundruk

This is a classic side dish that is served with the dal bhat… unfortunately many places forget this detail that is fundamental for me!!!

The Gundruk is prepared with fermented leafs of spinach, radish or mustard, that are later dried and storage. For serving the dry leafs are soaked in water and fry in a pan with onion, tomato, turmeric, salt and chili, resulting in a mix of acid and spicy flavor.

Due to the fermentation process gundruk is an important font of minerals.

Difficult or almost impossible to find in the market or shops as this is a homemade treat, but at least the dry leafs could be found in the street markets of Kathmandu.

Gundruk, served as a side dish at Muktinath Restaurant

Tarkari

The tarkari is a stew made from different types of vegetables, changing according to the season, but where the potato is almost always present. Coriander, cumin and turmeric are used to season, where is common the presence of onion and garlic.

There’s a huge variety of vegetables available in the market at Kathmandu, some of them totally unknown from the western eyes, but other, like carrot, cauliflower, potato, pumpkin, aubergine, zucchini are quite frequent. Mushrooms coming from the mountains are also used but is a treat reserved for a specific season. Despite all this variety in the tarkari doesn’t have more than two kinds of it, and potato is often one of them.

Changing according to season and from place to place, the tarkari could be a bit spicy, but is never oily or heavy.

tarkari... that means vegetables, stew and seasoned with tumeric, coriander and cumin... a important part of a dal bhat. At Om Restauant — tarkari… that means vegetables, stew and seasoned with tumeric, coriander and cumin… a important part of a dal bhat. At Om Restauant

Saag, stir fry spinach leafs, mustard leafs, radish leafs or another kind of green leaf vegetables

saag from the dal bhat served at Muktinath Restaurant.

Radish pickle, chopped into small pieces, and seasoned with mustard oil and chili; this side dish is strongly spicy and give a boost to the dal bhat combination of tastes.

Radish Pickle as a side dish of dal bhat at Muktinath_Restaurant.

Salad… usually not much more that a slice of radish, tomato, carrot or a piece of cucumber.

Papad, chili, lime and cucumber as a dal bhat side dish at Muktinath Takali Restaurant.

Yogurt… usually a bit sweet but not always present in some dal bhats; is a good combination with the salt and spicy taste of the rest of the dish.

yogurt serve with the dal bhar at Om Restaurant

Red sauce, not really my favorite and always skip it, but is made from tomato, chili and Sichuan pepper, having a sour and acid taste.

tomato sauce, sower and spicy at Om Restaurant.

… and last but no the least: Rice, plain and unsalted steamed rice… couldn’t be simpler.

Muktinath Thakali Kitchen

In the center of Thamel… difficult to give a proper address but try to look for Funky Buddha Bar, and passing the entrance gate you’ll see a red brick building on you left where is located the Muktinath Restaurant. Inside, passing the kitchen you have a kind of open-air area more pleasant called “garden”.

Muktinath Takali Restaurant. Thamel. Kathmandu

Om Restaurant

The Om Restaurant is hidden in the end of a back street of Thamel. Try to find first the Roots Bar, and from there is less than 100 meters. The place is dark and far from be attractive, but has a kind of character and the dal bhat is delicious… and maybe the cheapest meal in Thamel!

Note that in all restaurants the dal bhat is served in the refill system, which means that the plate is served with a not so big portion of food, but after someone will pass by bringing more food, and you can refill you plate as many times you want!

Another version of the dal bhat, hard to find in restaurants, is made with barley, cereal that grows at high levels as the rice, typical from lowlands, is hard to grow above 2000 meters high.

I can’t finish this post without mention a homemade dal bhat, cooked at mountain style, that despite the presence of the rice as also served with corn, cooked and beaten, resulting in a yellow thick paste. Very delicious, with the sweetness of the corn balancing the spiciness of the curry.

Tihar Festival at Kathmandu streets

marigold garland seller during Tihar Festival. Kathmandu

Kukur Puja

During the Tihar festival, one of the most important religious festivals in Nepal, there is one day dedicated to worship dogs, “kukur” in Nepali.

Early morning, through Kathmandu streets, people put “tikka”, red pigment on the dog’s forehead, a flower garland of marigolds on the neck, throw rice and some drops of water. Is offered food to the dogs like sweets, meat and the traditional “sel roti”, the Nepali traditional bread made from rice flour and deep fry.

Both home and stray dogs receive the puja, as is believed that this ritual brings protection to humans and strength the link between humans and dogs.

The dogs seam a bit confuse with the “tikka” and the garlands, but they easily forget the suspicion and the discomfort in front of the food treats.

kukur puja during Tihar Festival. Kathmandu

Gai Puja

On the third day of Tihar Festival is the turn of the cows to be worship, with offerings of rice, corn, fruits, salt, wheat flour, cookies, chapattis and green veggies! At the same time that they receive food treats, people light candles and incense, drop flower petals on their head and their back, and wrap the tail’s cow with a colourful string. Sesame oil id drop in the forehead of the cow and a “tikka” is made with red pigment.

Contrary to the dogs, that in the morning are more in the mood to sleep that to have food, the cows get enthusiastic with the offerings being totally indifferent to the marigolds garland and all the “puja” rituals. Small money bills are put on the head of the cows that quickly disappears on the pocket of someone, but that doesn’t seam to disturb the ritual of Gai Tihar.

gai puja during Tihar Festival. Kathmandu

offerings for gai puja during Tihar Festival. Kathmandu

Lakshmi Puja

Tihar is celebrated mostly during the day, usually with early morning pujas, but on the evening of the third day of the festival the dark streets of Kathmandu lights up for welcoming the Goddess Lakshmi.

At the entrance of the houses and shops the floor is decorated with colourful designs, mostly mandalas, adorned with flowers, candles and food offerings, while garlands of marigolds are hung above the doors.

The entrance of the houses and shops are painted with a red-brown mud, creating a path that is light up with candles to invite the goddess Lakshmi to come inside.

Along the night people gathering at the streets decorated with lights, chattering, playing music and cards, while groups of children go from door to door, singing songs ask for money and sweets, firecrackers blow every now and then, the creating one of the most animated nights of Nepal.

Lakshimi Puja during Tihar Festival. Kathmandu

Note: the best time to see caw puja and dog puja is early morning… so be prepared to jump out of the bed just after the sun rise. Walking along Kathmandu streets you can see a bit everywhere the Kukur Puja, but is better to look for a area with several butchers as there’s a favorite dogs place. For Gai Puja you can see some cows at Basantapur, near Durbar Square, the ground at the entrance of Pashupatinath Temple complex (near the ticket counter, but you don’t need to get the ticket). Lakshimi Puja happens in the evening of the third day of the Tihar festival and is allover the city streets.

oferings of food piles in from of a small temple during Tihar Festival. Kathmandu — offerings of food piles in from of a small temple during Tihar Festival. Kathmandu

https://steppingoutofbabylon.com/wp/en/2016/11/in-search-of-the-best-dal-bhat-in-kathmandu/

https://steppingoutofbabylon.com/wp/en/2016/09/a-guide-for-snacks-and-street-food-in-kathmandu/

Namo Buddha… in search of tranquility

Sometimes the intense pace of Kathmandu city, with its constant traffic, horns, polluted and dusty air, make for a getaway in search of a healthy atmosphere and a quieter environment.

The location of Kathmandu, surrounded by mountains, offers several options for a day trip in search of nature, green landscapes, mountains, and clean air… a place where the birds chirping and singing overlap the noise caused by human beings, such as happens in the overpopulated Kathmandu. Namo Buddha is one of these discrete paradises situated a few kilometers from the capital where it dominates the Tibetan culture and religion, being one of the main places of Buddhist pilgrimage in Nepal, together with the stupas of Boudha and Swayambhunath.

Away from Namo Buddha Stupa to Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery

The stupa houses the relics of a prince who, according to tradition, offered his blood and body as food to a starving tiger as an act of compassion. Apart from the religious significance, the modest stupa does not make a big impression, with the place being surrounded by small restaurants and souvenir shops.

But up the hill, through a dense grove of trees along a path decorated with prayer flags, you reach the top of the hill, from where you can see the Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery.The monastery is of recent construction, and its architecture does not impress, but the interior of the vast temple, with ceiling and walls decorated with delicate Buddhist paintings create a sacred ambiance.

In the various buildings that are part of the monastery are other smaller temples, with elaborate statues of Buddha and the goddess Tara.

Nearby Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery some temples evoking the tradition of the prince that gave is blood and is live to save a tiger

There is an atmosphere of calm and tranquility, promoted by the sacred environment of the monastery and the intense green forest that frames the place, crowned by the snow white that covers the mountains of the Annapurna range.

Note: photos inside the temple arte not allowed

Where to sleep in Namo Buddha:

Namo Buddha is located 40 kilometers from the center of Kathmandu, about two hours away, so it can be visited in one morning. It is advisable to get out of Kathmandu early, around 7 a.m., to avoid the traffic jam.

But in the area, within walking distance, there are a few resorts.

Where to eat in Namo Buddha:

Around the stupa of Namo Buddha, there are several restaurants aimed to pilgrims, who also sell religious articles and incense but that are not inviting for more than a chai.

Along the road where the bus stops, there are three eateries that serve tea and meals, but definitively Banepa offers better options in terms of food.

Transportation to Namo Buddha:

There are no direct buses from Kathmandu to Namo Buddha.

You need to catch a bus at Ratna Park to Banepa first (depart with high frequency).

At the bus terminal of Banepa (bus park), there are buses that pass through Namo Buddha; just ask for Namo Buddha from the various buses that are parked in the bus park.

The bus stops very close to the stupa. After the stupa is about 10 to 15 minutes walk to the monastery.

bus Kathmandu to Banepa: 1 hour, 45 rupees
Benepa to Namo Buddha bus: 1 hour, 60 rupees

The bus frequency from Namo Buddha to Banepa is not high, so you may have to wait an hour for the next bus… or get a ride from a truck, but pay attention: being faster is more expensive than the bus.

The road between Kathmandu and Banepa is in good condition and the trip is reasonably comfortable, on a flat route. But from Banepa to Namo Buddha the road is steep and winding, unpaved and very deteriorated, making this last stage uncomfortable and tiring.

Kathmandu: a guide to snacks and street-food

Snacks and street food in Kathmandu for vegetarians… a quick guide about what to eat and where to eat!

Momos

The momos (also written as mo:mo) are the most popular snack in Nepal, and can be found in small eateries or street stalls a bit everywhere along Kathmandu streets. This small dumpling is made from wheat flour, filled with meat or vegetables, is one of the most popular snacks but is also common as a meal.

In Basantapur, there are a few places selling momos, easily identify by the big aluminium pan, with several trays, that usually stay outside the place. Most of these places just serve buff momos, but there are two places that serve vegetarian ones. One is more or less in front of the palace (Durbar Square), on the same street of Kumari House, a very small restaurant with seats just on the first floor, that offer an interesting view to the square. The name is just in Nepali.

Address: Durbar Square, few buildings further from Kumari House.

An other momo eatery, in fact, my favourite momos, is a street stall just in front of Teleju Temple, that serves buff, chicken and veg momos. The Makhan Top Mo:Mo is a very popular and the single bench available will probably be full, force you to eat standing. But still is a good opportunity to appreciate the vibe of the square especially around 5 o’clock, time that looks like all Kathmandu population is on the streets!

A bowl of 10 veg momo cost 60 rupees and is also possible to ask for takeaway.

Address: street stall in front of Teleju Temple.

momos from Makhan Top Mo:Mo. Kathmandu — *momos* from Makhan Top Mo:Mo, near Teleju Temple. Kathmandu

kathmandu_street-food_momos-stall_dsc_9360-copy — momos from Makhan Top Mo:Mo, near Teleju Temple. Kathmandu

The fry-momos, are a kind of Indian twist to the original recipe, and after steamed are deep-fry in oil, that give a crunchy feeling to the dough. They are not so popular as the steamed ones, but can be found on a back street of Basantapur (Kampukot Marg) that link to Yatkha.

fry momos. Basantapur. Kathmandu — fry *momos…* with the half-moon shape that means that are filled with vegetables. Basantapur. Kathmandu

Samosa

Apparently originated from Middle East, the samosa is, without a doubt, a symbol of India gastronomy, especially in term of snacks, and is spread all over the country, as also in neighbouring countries. Nepal didn’t escape to the samosa invasion and this snack is easy to find in the small restaurants along Basantapur and Durbar Square.

My favourite samosa, without a name in western characters is located a few doors further from the Kumari House, just next to the momo place mentioned before. The place is far from being charming, and “clean” is a word that you can’t apply there, but the samosas are delicious, and can be served plain or a yellow dal curry. Spicy and oily but irresistible will they are still warm.

A samosa with curry cost 20 rupees. the samosas are always vegetarian in India and Nepal, usually filled with a spicy mix of potato and beans.

Address: Durbar Square, few doors further from Kumari House

samosa place at Basantapur — samosa eatery at Basantapur. Kathmandu

Samosa Chaat

Another popular Indian snack that is easy to find in Kathmandu is the samosa chaat, usually from lunchtime until evening. This snack is made with a samosa broken into pieces, and topped with onion, tomato, yellow peas dal, fresh coriander and curd (sweet yogurt) and seasoned with cumin powder, chili powder and Himalayan salt… and a few drops of lime.

But this is the recipe of the small and unnoticed place, the Jay Durga Chaat & Egg-Roll House, located in a back street (Dafter Marg) nearby the so-called Freak Street (Jhochhen Road), 5 minutes from Basantapur.

A samosa chaat cost 90 rupees, but can be found cheaper in hawkers near Teleju Temple at dusk.

Address: Dafter Marg, near Freak Street, Basantapur

kathmandu_street-food_samosa-chaat_dsc_9246-copy — samosa chaat. Kathmandu

samosa chaat place — samosa chaat eatery near Basantapur

Dahi Puri

The puris (small crunchy shell made from a very thin deep-fry dough) can be found a bit all over the city, usually hawkers specialized on this snack that show up at Kathmandu streets at the end of the afternoon. But these street stalls only have the pani puri, a spicier but less interesting version of the puris.

But my favourites are the dahi puri! It has the same base: puris stuffed with a potato and chickpeas mix but drizzled with yogurt (dahi), coriander and tamarind sauce, and seasoned with cumin and chilli powder. The result is a sweet and spicy mix, very yummy!

As the hawkers in Kathmandu only have pani puris, to find the dahi puri the best option is to walk a bit way from Basantapur, to Khechapukhu Sadak, somewhere between Sundhara e New Road, and look for a small stall in the center od the square, with the sign Khichapokhari Youth Club… usually surrounded by people that stop here for the snacks:

The puris are served in a plate with 6, and each one must be eaten in one bit… otherwise the juice will fill up your hand.

Address: Khechapukhu Sadak somewhere between Sundhara and New Road.

kathmandu_street-food_dhai-puri_img_0254 — “dahi puri” from Khichapokhari Youth Club. Kathmandu

kathmandu_street-food-stall_dsc_9646-copy — Khichapokhari Youth Club a popular place for snacks like puris and momos. Kathmandu

Sekuwa

Although being easy to find vegetarian food in Nepal, the meat is quite popular and the sekuwa even more, as it can be eaten as a snack or as a meal, in the many eateries that grill the meat just outside the shop, feeling the air with smoke and the smell of the meat.

Could be made from different kinds of meat, seasoned with a red sauce, and cut in small pieces stick in bamboo and grilled in a wood fire. The sekuwa is usually eaten with puff rice.

Address: a bit everywhere around Basantapur

kathmandu_street-food_sekuwa_dsc_9401-copy — sekuwa. Durbar Square. Kathmandu

kathmandu_street-food_sekuwa_dsc_9395-copy — sekuwa. Durbar Square. Kathmandu

Lassi

A drink made from yogurt, sweetened and chill with ice, that despite it Indian origin is quite popular in Kathmandu.

The Janakpur Dahi Lassi Bhandhar is probably the most popular place and it only sells lassi: big or small, with a topping of raisins, pistachio and caju. As there is no place to seat, people gather in front of the shop, but the pollution and the beeps of the traffic.

Small lassi: 30 rupees and big lassi 60 rupees.

Address: at Chandraman Singh Marg, nearby Indra Chowk.

Lassi from Janakpur Dahi Lassi Bhandhar. Kathamndu — “lassi” from Janakpur Dahi Lassi Bhandhar. Kathamndu

Curd (Juju Dhau)

The curd is a rich and thick yogurt, usually with sugar that traditional was made in clay pot. Nowadays is possible to find curd in may places along the city, but the traditional one from Newari region, called Juju Dhau (king yogurt), made in a clay pots are not so common.

One of my favourite places is the Bhaktapur King Curd Shop at the end of Freak Street (Jhochhen Road), just near a junction of five streets. Here is possible to find the original King Curd from Bhaktapur, made from buffalo milk in clay pots or clay plates, sold in different sizes.

Address: at the end of Freak Street (Jhochhen Road) near the cross road of Jor Ganesh Galli with Nabahi Marg

kathmandu_street-food_king-curd_dsc_9544-copy — “king curd” in a clay pot from Bhaktapur King Curd Shop. Kathmandu

Not far from Durbar Square, in the Guna Kamdev Marg, that leaves the square on the way to the south, there is also a very small place that sells good curd, also in clay pots.

Sel Roti

These deep-fry rings, made from rice flour, are a very popular Nepali breakfast; are made and sold usually during the morning in small shops along the old part of Kathmandu.

They are a bit sweet and get crispy just after being made, which make them irresistible, but heavy for delicate stomachs.

Address: a bit everywhere around Basantapur, as for example at the bakeries along Guna Kamdev Marga

Khajuri

These are my favourite Nepali sweet… they don’t have much sugar, and despite being cooked in oil are not very that oily.

The Khajuri are made from wheat flour, sugar and ghee (clarified butter) and can be found in all bakeries during all the time, as they can last for quite a long time without loosing the crispy texture.

Address: at the bakeries along Guna Kamdev Marga, a few meters from Basantapur

Laakhamari

The Laakhamari is a special bread made usually during the religious festivals, and is easily identify by is complex shape made looking like a complex and artistic knot. Made from a mix of flours, sugar and butter and deep-fry in oil.

After is usually covered with a layer of glazed sugar

Address: at the bakeries along Guna Kamdev Marga, a few meters from Basantapur and many other bakeries in Kathmandu.

kathmandu_street-food_sweets_laakhamari_dsc_9257-copy — Laakhamari

kathmandu_street-food_sweets_laakhamari_dsc_9259-copy — “laakhamari” prepared on Kathmandu street during one of the Nepali religious festivals

Nepali doughnuts (donuts)

Almost so popular as the sel roti, the Nepali version of doughnuts is everywhere, from bakeries to small eateries. This deep-fry dough with the shape of a ring can be eaten plain or stuffed with cream.

Roasted peas

Peas, beans, corn, chickpeas… all roasted and seasoned in a different way, usually with a salty and hot mix of species.

These snacks are always sold by hawkers and can be found a bit everywhere along Kathmandu streets.

Others snacks….

Walking along Kathmandu streets I’m still surprised with something new in terms of food, prepared in the street or made in small eateries, sometimes so small that most of the things are cooked on the streets… sometimes is not easy to get the name or the ingredients… but here there a few more snacks!!!

puff pastry filled with meat or vegetables. Basantapur, Durbar Square. Kathmandu

potato deep-fry snack, popular in the afternoon. Kathmandu

Enjoy!

How to cross the border Sunauli – Belahiya (India/Nepal)

India and Nepal have several border crossings open to foreigners. The most popular although is the Sonauli (India) – Belahiya (Nepal), due to its location, more or less in the middle of the south Nepal border, and maybe the shortest route to reach Kathmandu by land. Also, the location of this border cross, between Varanasi and Kathmandu or Pokhara, make this desolated and unfriendly place a choice for those who want to travel by land.

But for those traveling in Northeast India, like Sikkim, Bengal and the so-called North-eastern states (Assam, Nagaland, Meghalaya, Arunachal Pradesh, etc…) the border Panitanki (India) – Kakarbitta (Nepal) located on the east side of Nepal is the best option. For more details about this border crossing check my posts about “Border Crossing” on Tips/Dicas de Viagem category.

The closest train station from the Sonauli – Belahiya border is Gorakhpur, with easy connection with Delhi and Varanasi. Gorakhpur is far from being a charming or appealing place, so try to arrange things in order to avoid one night there.

Just when you come out from the train station, you just need to ignore all the tuk-tuk drivers that will surround you and walk straight forward until the main road. Just on the other side, near crossroad with a statue with a guy on a horse, you’ll see a few buses stop… not a bus terminal or even a bus stand… just a few buses along the road. Try to ask the drivers about one that goes to Sonauli; usually, it stops on the right corner (if you have the trains station on your back).

The bus departure more or less every hour, or even before if it’s full. The buses run all day, starting around 6 am, until evening.

In case that you arrive late, close to evening time, is advisable to sleep in Gorakhpur, and make the trip to Sonauli next morning, as there are not many infrastructures in Sonauli, and the place itself in “not a place to stay”!!! Anyway, the Sonauli – Belahiya border is open 24 hours.

The bus from Gorakhpur to Sonauli, will take about 1.5 hours.

From the bus stand until the Indian Immigration Office is about 600 meters that will take around 10 minutes to walk along a dusty or muddy road (depending the weather) between trucks. Some people prefer to hire a cycle-rickshaw but it just worth if you travel with lots of luggage.

Indian Immigration Office at Sunauli. India

At the Indian Immigration Office you need to fill a form and give it back with your passport to the staff that usually is very friendly. The office is very small and sometimes you need to stay outside while an officer collects the passports and give them back after stamped. Always check if you have the exit stamp before leaving any country!

Don’t be surprised if you see many people crossing the border without passing by the Immigration Office, as the Nepal and Indian citizens don’t need a visa or even a passport to cross any border between India and Nepal.

After this, you keep walking along the same road and will see a big gate that represents the border India – Nepal. Is possible that an officer will ask for your passport, but sometimes they are more focus in controlling local people because of the smuggling than the tourists.

After the gate you walk a few more meters and will see, on the right side, a small house with a kind of garden where is the Nepal Immigration Office. There you need to need to fill a form, give a photo, show the passport and pay the visa fee according to the length of your stay. Usually it will not take more than 10 minutes.

You will be welcomed with a friendly smile and a proud “welcome to Nepal!”.

Nepal has Visa on Arrival, so to get your visa you need:

passport
1 photo
fill a couple of forms
…and money to pay the visa fee. You can pay in dollars (USD) or Indian rupees (INR). Must be played in cash. There’s neither ATM or Exchange shop nearby, so be prepared. In the India side you can exchange money. If you pay in dollars is better to bring the exact amount, as change isn’t always available. If you pay in euros you’re doing a bad deal as the 25$ are automatically converted in 25€!

The Nepal visa can be (September 2016):

15 days: 25 USD
30 days: 40 USD or 2700 INR
90 days: 100 USD

At the Nepal side of the border you’ll see a few exchange money shops. From my experience the rates are quite alright.

Probably some will ask if you need a bus to Pokhara or Kathmandu. This maybe is not the beast deal that you can have but save you from walking (or take a bus) to the bus terminal (also called Bhairahawa Bus Park).

From Belahiya there are also buses to Lumbini and Chitwan.

Note about Nepal Visa Fees:

If you are planning to stay in Nepal for 2 months is better to apply for the 3 months visa. Otherwise, you pay 40$ for the first 30 days and then need to extend your visa for more 30 days… so as extending the visa will cost your 2$ a day, an extra month will be 60$… that in total is the same cost of the 90 days visa…. and you save yourself a few hours at the Immigration Office in Kathmandu or Pokhara.

Extend Nepal Visa:

To extend you Nepal Visa, you can do it in Kathmandu or Pokhara.

In Pokhara usually there are fewer people and you can get you new stamp quickly. At Katmandu is always more busier and confuse. But in both places you find helpful staff.

Not that the maximum number of days that you can stay in Nepal is 150 a year.

How to go from Sonauli-Belahiya to Kathmandu by bus:

Just after crossing the border you arrive at Belahiya, the first populated place that you cannot even call a village, but where you can find (after the Immigration Office), also on the right side of the road, a few travel agencies that sell bus tickets to Pokhara and Kathmandu. Usually there are always a few buses parked in a dusty/muddy ground that works like a bus terminal, called Belhiya Bus Park.

The soon you arrive more are the chances to have a bus to your destination, as most of the buses departure in the morning. Still is possible to catch a bus to Kathmandu around 2 p.m. There are also buses that departure at the end of the afternoon, but the information given by these travel agencies are not clear. But watch out: the bus trip to Kathmandu will take more than 8 hours that the ticket seller said… probably 10 hours depending on the traffic at Kathmandu, so if you arrive late to the border be prepared to arrive at Kathmandu in the evening!!!

Sometimes I felt that these private bus companies are taking advantage of people that just arrive and are not yet familiarized with the currency and prices, and I already notice that the bus ticket from Kathmandu to Belahiya is cheaper than the opposit way.

There aren’t public buses in Nepal, except a few local buses in Kathmandu. But if you want to avoid an overcharge ticket at the border (we are talking something about 200 rupees more, more or less 2$) you can walk or take a taxi to the Bhairahawa Bus Park around 7 km further along the main road and from there you have more bus companies but I couldn’t get a proper schedule of the buses to Kathmandu.

Where to eat at Sonauli-Belahiya:

Don’t try to eat at Sonauli. It will be difficult to find an inviting place and even if you choose one dhaba (road side restaurant), possible your meal will be disturbed by may touts trying to “help” you crossing the border or changing money.

If you really need a meal is better to wait until cross the border to Nepal side (Belahiya), that has a much quieter and friendly environment. With a short walk you can see the few places available, and it can be an option for a quick meal, but if you look for something more inviting you need to take a local bus (walk by the main road until you find the Bus Terminal on your right side) and go to the nearby village Siddharthanagar (also called Bhairawa or Bahirahawa).

Best train from Varanasi to Gorakhpur:

If you are traveling from Varanasi to Nepal, you can make the all trip by bus (there are even bus services from Varanasi to Kathmandu, that I don’t recommend) or by train. The train is the most comfortable option as it allow you to have a reasonable night of sleep and arrive at Gorakhpur early in the morning, with plenty of time to take the bus the Sonaluli-Belahiya border, and with strong chances to reach Kathmandu in the same day… but in the evening!

From Varanasi all the trains that arrive in Gorakhpur in the morning leave late in the evening, so avoid to choose a train that departure from Mugah Sarai, as this station is very far out from the city, and in the evening is not recommended for women or solo travelers. check my previous post: http://steppingoutofbabylon.com/en/2016/06/how-to-go-from-varanasi-to-mugal-sarai-train-station/

For me the best option was the night train that departure from Varanasi Junction (easily reach buy tuk-tuk even during the night, but I recommend to arranje it with the help of the guesthouse staff): Train number 15003 (Chauri Chaura Express) that departure at 00:40 and arrive to Gorakhpur (last stop) at 6.50 a.m… sometimes with a bit of delay!!!

http://steppingoutofbabylon.com/en/2016/06/how-to-go-from-varanasi-to-mugal-sarai-train-station/

How to cross the border Panitanki – Kakarbhitta (India/Nepal)

India and Nepal have several border crossings open to foreigners. The most popular although is the Sonauli-Belahiya, due to it location, more or less in the middle of the south Nepal border, and maybe the shortest rout to reach Kathmandu by land. Also the location between Varanasi and Kathmandu or Pokhara, make this desolated and unfriendly place a choice for those how want to travel by land. For more details about Sonauli-Belahiya border crossing check my previous posts. http://steppingoutofbabylon.com/en/2016/09/how-to-cross-the-border-sunauli-belahiya-india-nepal/

But for those traveling in north east India, like Sikkim, Bengal and the so-called North-eastern states (Assam, Nagaland, Megahlaya, Arunachal Pradesh, etc…) the border Panitanki (India) – Kakarbhitta (Nepal) located on the east side of Nepal is the best option.

Being less popular is far more pleasant the Sonauli-Belahiya, but if you destination is Kathmandu you have to face a 16 hours bus trip.

The Panitanki – Kakarbhitta border is open 24 hours on the India side, and from the Nepal side from 6 am to 7 pm.

(Aug 2017 update: the border is open 24 hours on the Nepali side. The gates are open from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.)

(Feb 2019 update: the border is open until 10 p.m on both sides)

At Panitanki just ask to local people “Nepal” and everyone knows where the border is. From here you can walk until Indian Immigration Office. Not more than 10 minutes walking. The road as asphalt but you must do your walk with truck passing close to you. So if you prefer avoid some sweat and dust you can arrange the entire trip until Nepali side with one of the many cycle rickshaws.

The Panitanki – Kakarbhitta border is marked by a river, and the bridge connection the two sides is a kind of “no mans land”. The Indian Immigration Office is a few meters before the bridge, in a small alley on your left side. Anyway if you miss it, the guards near the gate will call you and show you the way.

At the Indian Immigration Office, you show your passport and in less than 2 minutes you have your exit stamp.

way to the Indian Immigration Office. Panitanki

From here you need to cross the bridge. I have made it on foot, and I was not the only one, but if your luggage is heavy or if you are caring many items maybe is better to hire a rickshaws. Anyway walking you have more time to enjoy the view of the river and surroundings that with the heat of April are almost dry, but that after the monsoon rain must offer a pleasant view. The walk make me sweat and regret not had taken a rickshaw, but at the same time offer me lots of smiles from the local people and children waving… not many foreigners cross this point, and even less do it on foot. And above all, crossing a border on foot has always a special meaning… a kind of symbolic entrance in a country… not with the easiness and apparatus of the airports but with a humbleness necessary to a traveler.

Indian side of the Panitanki Panitanki-Kakarbitta border — Indian side of the Panitanki-Kakarbitta border

arrivnig to Nepal border. Panitanki-Kakarbitta border — arriving to Kakarbitta, Nepal side of Panitanki-Kakarbitta border

After crossing the bridge you are at Nepal, more properly Kakarbitta. Walking a few meters more you’ll on the right side a ramp that lead you to a gate. Behind the gate is the building of the Nepali Immigration Office. As the both Nepali and Indian don’t need immigration formalities to cross the border, this office is almost empty all day. Nepal has Visa on Arrival, so to get your visa you need:

passport
1 photo
fill a couple of forms that they will give you there
…and money to pay the visa fee. You can pay in dollars (USD) or Indian rupees (INR). Must be played in cash. There is no ATM or Exchange shop nearby, so be prepared. In the India side you can exchange money. If you pay in dollars is better bring the exact amount, as change isn’t always available.

The Nepal visa can be (April 2016):

15 days: 25 USD
30 days: 40 USD or 2700 INR
90 days: 100 USD

The staff at the Nepal Immigration office is very nice and provides a lot of information, especially about schedules and prices for the different kinds of buses. With the help of Nepali officers I could easily avoid touts that always come to try to push you to one of their buses. They are annoying but not persistent.

After have your stamp in the passport, that will take about 5 minutes, you just walk right until you cross a big gate that symbolically mark the entrance in Nepal.

Panitanki-Kakarbitta border crossing_Kakarbitta Nepal Immigration Office_DSC_9177 — Nepal Immigration office at Kakarbitta. Panitanki-Kakarbitta border

Panitanki-Kakarbitta border crossing_Kakarbitta_DSC_9178 — Gate that marks Nepali border. The bus terminal in just a few meter further, on the right side. Kakarbitta

From here you walk a few meters and on your start to see a few shops, keep walking until a corner, where bus tickets are sold. There are several shops, but in this one you are dealing directly with the bus company and avoid extra fees from intermediaries and travel agencies. The shop is open to the street, with the counter surrender by windows. The prices are clearly written on the window. The bus terminal is just in front.

From Kakarbitta there are direct buses to the main nepali cities: Kathmandu, Jonakpur, Biratnagar, Itahari, etc…

ticket counter fot the buses from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu, at the Kakarbitta bus terminal, located on the right side just after crossing the border

How to go from Siliguri (New Jalpaiguri Junction) to Panitaki:

Probably you’ll arrive to Panitanki coming from Sikkim, Darjeeling, Siliguri or New Jalpaiguri.

Siliguri is the closest train station from the Nepali border, but most of the trains stop at is New Jalpaiguri also known as NJP, a more important station. Just in front of New Jalpaiguri train station, you’ll see a few nice blue buses parked that go to Siliguri. From there you need another bus to Panitanki. To avoid this bus transfer you must walk a bit further, to the end of the train station car park, until find a bus, not so nice and modern as the other ones, but that goes direct to Panitanki; it takes about 1 hour to make around 35 km, but it stop many times, including Siliguri. If you arrive during the day, there’s no reason to stop in Siliguri, but is never a good option crossing the border during the night.

Bus ticket New Jalpaiguri (NJP) to Panitanki: 20 INR (Indian rupees) (about 1 hour)

bus from New Jalpaiguri Junction (in front of the train station) to Panitanki

How to go from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu by bus:

As there is no railway service in Nepal just remains two options to reach Kathmandu: by plane or by bus.

The plane far from be the best option is terms of time and comfort is out of a backpacker budget, as also out of the spirit of traveling… so the bus remain as the only reasonable option.

There are good bus connections between Kakarbitta (also referred as Kakarvitta) and the capital, with a/c buses depart early in the morning: 4 am, 5 am, 6 am and 7 am, and in the afternoon: 3 pm, 4 pm and 5 pm. Officially the trip is 12 hours… but it took 16 hours, with the last two hours already in the traffic jam of Kathmandu suburbs.

The evening buses arrive to Kathmandu more or less all at the same time, despite the time of the departure, as later the bus departure, les traffic find on the way.

Despite de 16 hours bus journey, the trip is not so hard as imagined, as about 2/3 of the trip is made on the Terai, the flat area in south of Nepal. The last part is the hardest one with the road going up to the mountain, with quiet some curves and bumps that hardly allow you to sleep.

Is strongly advisable to take air-condition bus (a/c bus) not just because of the heat from the south of Nepal during almost all the year, but also because of the dust and the noise. The a/c with the windows locked provides a more pleasant and relax trip… it worth to pay some extra rupies more.

The best buses are from the BIHANI company. Called a/c Delux, are modern, almost new and quiet comfortable, spacious, and the reclining seats, have a support for the legs that provide a almost horizontal position… not a sleeping bus but very confortable. Still your sleep could be disturbed by the music and the movie show on the screen… a kind of Nepali version of Bollywood. The bus stop a coupe of times for food.

ticket fares from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu:

Bus “a/c Delux”: 1630 NPR (nepali rupees) (16 hours)
bus “delux”: from 809 NPR to 1295 NPR (more or less the same travel time but less comfort)
Bus “non delux”: from 668 to 1070 NPR (I strongly discouraged trip in this “normal” buses, only if there’s any other option)

“delux” and “non delux” bus fares from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu at Kakarbitta Bus terminal

a/c bus fares from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu

From my experience at Neapli roads I must say that there are no pleasant or easy bus trips in Nepal. Or is too hot, like almost all the year along the Terai, or at mountain the winding roads, or the drivers are crazy, or there are many stops, or the bus is too crowded, or the road is too dusty, or if it’s raining too muddy. Even the super-delux bus is most of the times old, uncomfortable, dirty and even with broken seat.

This trip from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu, on a a/c bus was far the most pleasant trip that I have ever made in Nepal.

a/c bus from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu… the best bus that I ever catch in Nepal.

Bus ticke Kakarbitta to Kathmandu — Bus ticket Kakarbitta to Kathmandu… with the company name and contacts

Karkarbitta to Kathmandu by mini-van: (update Feb 2019):

As an alternative to these night buses there are mini-vans that take just 11 hours and reach Kathmandu around 5 p.m., very convenient as you can make the trip during the day and arrive in Kathmandu before the sunset. This vans make a kind of short cut, passing through Sindhuli, Dhulikhel and Bhaktapur, before reaching the capital.

Departure time is around 5 a.m.

In the image below you can find the contact of this vans, locally identify as “Hiace”, to get more details about the ticket price and from where they departure.

contact info of the mini-van from Kakarbitta to Kathmandu

Where to eat at Kakarbitta:

At Kakarbitta after having my precious bus ticket was time to relax and have some food.

Kakarbitta is far from be attractive town, but nor sob ad from what we are used to expect form a border town. Is quiet, cross by a main road, dusty but that doesn’t have that much traffic. Around the bus terminal, basically the center of all activity at Kakarbita, there are a few shop, restaurants and few fruit stalls.

On the opposite side of the terminal, that is quieter, line up a few restaurants, also called hotel, with some also with lodging. The choice was for the Sainik Hotel, clean and spacious. The kana (local meal based on rice, dhal, curry, vegetables and pickle) was delicious and served at the traditional brass plate. The meal with two chai was 80 rupees (NPR) with refill. Strongly recommend.

Beyond the food Sainik Hotel also provide nice conditions to wait about 4 hours for my bus: quiet and with smiley and friendly staff.