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Search Results for: Tailândia

About the food in Cambodia

In summary, it can be said that Cambodia is not an easy country for vegetarians, as this is a strange concept in this country where meat consumption dominates. But there are always options like noodle soups, curries and some snacks that help to get around the situation!

As in Lao, the noodle soups continued to be present but the quality decreased: not only are the broths less aromatic, but sometimes the noodles are made from dry pasta or even instant noodles. The usual dish of aromatic herbs and vegetables that accompanied these soups in the neighbouring country, is often absent here.

In Cambodian food, there is a strong influence of Chinese and Vietnamese cuisine, which is visible in the many restaurants serving “phò”, the traditional vietnamese noodle soup.

Another influence of China is the hot pots, which are very popular among Cambodians (as in many other Southwest Asian countries), especially in cities and particularly on weekends, where these restaurants are filled with families and groups of friends who share this meal, consisting of a pan with a boiling broth, where pieces of meat are floating, which remain hot on the table with the use of a mini gas stove, and where the various side dishes, such as cabbage, fresh herbs, pasta, pieces of meat and also viscera…

These noodle soups, prepared at the moment, can be made in the vegetarian version, however, although meat is not added, there is no increase in the amount of vegetables that usually come down to a handful of soy sprouts and a few cabbage leaves. As for the broth that serves as the base for these soups, almost transparent and with a light flavour, it is likely to contain products of animal origin in its preparation.

The so-called rice soups, popular as a morning meal, although a little boring, are also an option for vegetarians, since you can always order without meat, alternatively adding soy sprouts.

More advisable in terms of a vegetarian diet are fry-noodles, where the rice noodles are stir fry with some vegetables and egg and seasoned with mysterious sauces.

Coffee is usually served with ice and is almost always sweetened with condensed milk. The preparation is in everything similar to that found in Vietnam, with the boiling water being poured over the coffee in a kind of metallic filter, placed on the top of the glass. Often the coffee is already made, in a very concentrated dose, which is then diluted in hot water when the coffee is served. The flavour is smooth but with a particular flavour, but it is necessary to use a certain communication skill to avoid the popular condensed milk, which totally crushes the original flavour of the coffee.

The curries continue to be strongly present, much less spicy than in neighbouring Thailand, served with the usual dose of rice. The most popular of these curries is amok, which can be seafood, fish, meat or just vegetables, highlighting the mild aroma of spices from which lemongrass, turmeric and ginger stand out. Traditionally this dish is made very slowly, in steam, on a banana leaf. Not as easy to find as a noodle soup, amok served with rice is a delicious option for vegetarians and is more likely to be found in restaurants than in markets.

In Cambodia, vegetarian options are scarcer than in other countries in Southeast Asia, dominating meat, whether fresh or processed in the form of small meatballs whose appearance is far from attractive but which is extremely popular in Cambodia. In the south of the country, given the proximity to the sea, fish and seafood are strongly present, with markets offering a wide variety of products, which is reflected in the dishes and even street snacks.

And as in any Asian country, street food has a strong presence, due to its variety, both in sweets and in snacks, appearing at specific times of the day, often next to markets, schools, or in the busiest streets of cities. They can be small stalls transported on bicycles or compact kitchens coupled to motorcycles.

As in many Southwest Asian countries, it is not difficult to find exotic foods by European standards, and Cambodia seems to offer even more opportunities to find frogs for sale in the markets or grasshoppers fried at a street stall.

Sopa de arroz, servida somente de manhã, como primeira refeição do dia, e que muitas vezes é acompanhada de uma especie de pão frito
Rice soup, served only in the morning, as the first meal of the day, which is often accompanied by a kind of fried bread
stree food em Siem Reap
street food in Siem Reap
pasteis de massa de arroz recheados com legumes e mergulhados numa mistura de molhos doces, salgados e picantes
rice noodles stuffed with vegetables and dipped in a mixture of sweet, savoury and spicy sauces
banca que todas as noite surge nas ruas de Siem Reap servindo a sopa de noodles tradicional do Vietnam
every night several small stands appear on the streets of Siem Reap serving Vietnamese traditional noodle soup
muitas vezes é possivel encontrar fruta já descascada e cortada que se vende nas ruas, em especial nas zonas mais frequentadas por turistas.
it is often possible to find already peeled and cut fruit that is sold on the streets, especially in the areas most frequented by tourists
fritos de banana e massa
fried banana
phô
Vietnamese phô soup
bancas de venda de comida em Siem reap, em frente ao local de partidas dos autocarros... depois da hora de ponta mudan-se para outras paragens.
food stalls in Siem reap, in front of the bus departure point … but after the rush hour it moves to other stops
nooodlles
dry noodles
chá que está semptre disponivel nas mesas
tea that is always available on the tables
sops de noodles com legumes
noodle soup with vegetables
molhos e mais molhos... mas poucos picantes, em comparação com o que era oferecido na Tailândia ou mesmo no Laos
sauces and more sauces … but few spicy, compared to what was offered in Thailand or even Laos
café confeccionado de forma semelhante à que se encontra no Vietnam
ice coffee made by the filter process
street-food em Phnom Penh
street-food in Phnom Penh
fruta de uma especie de palmeira, servida com leite de coco, gelo e muito, muito açucar
toddy fruit, from a kind of palm tree, translucent and gelatinous, served with coconut milk and ice…. very sugary
fruta de uma especie de palmeira
toddy palm fruit
mercado de Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh market
bolos cozinhados ao vapor, em folha de bananeira
steamed cakes in banana leaf
noodles fritos com legumes e ovo estrelado... sempre frito dos dois lados!
fried noodles with vegetables and a fried egg … always fried on both sides!
banca de rua
street stall
street food em Phnom Penh
street food in Phnom Penh: pancake served hot, stuffed with sticky rice and sweetened with a mixture of coconut and sugar
street food em Phnom Penh
street food in Phnom Penh with fry dough, also called oily sticks
um dos muitos snacks de rua: massa doce frita e salpicada de sésamo
one of the many street snacks: fried sweet dough, sprinkled with sesame seads
restaurante de phô em Phnom Penh
“phô” restaurant in Phnom Penh
DSC_3399

Vegetable “amok“… the famous Cambodian curry that most of the times is made with fish, but that can also be ordered in a vegetarian version only with legumes.

Uma especie de custard, mas cozinhada dentro de uma pequena abóbora que depois de cozida se pode comer a casca; é servida às fatias, regadas com leite de côco, calda de açucar, gelo e leite condensado. Muito popular na Tailândia, pode-se também encontrar nos mercados do Camboja

A kind of custard, but cooked inside a small pumpkin that after being cooked you can eat the peel; it is served sliced, drizzled with coconut milk, sugar syrup, ice and condensed milk. Very popular in Thailand, it can also be found in Cambodian markets

banca no mercado de Sihanouk Ville dedicada à venda de doces, onde domina o leite de côco e o leite condensado
stall in the Sihanouk Ville market dedicated to the sale of sweets, where coconut milk and condensed milk dominate

How to apply for Chinese visa in Laos

Definitely getting the Chinese visa, even for tourism, isn’t a simple task, requiring more documents than it’s normal for most of the South East Asia countries.

China doesn’t have the visa upon arrival.

The tourist visa, type “L”, is 30 days and is valid for three months from the date of issue. Staying longer than the thirty days entitles you to a heavy fine and a formal apology request based on a good justification (according to information collected on the net the fine is 500 yuan), running the risk of being banned from entry in China forever.

My first attempt to obtain the visa was at the Chinese embassy in Bangkok, which is a time-consuming and demanding task. It’s advisable to arrive early, as visa services only work in the morning, and yet there is no shortage of a wait of more than four hours, in a crowded room, which can be extended in the afternoon.

Even though I had arrived a little more than half an hour after the opening of the doors, I came upon a veritable throng which filled the vast hall with more than two hundred people.

According to information gathered from other tourists who are more accustomed to this process, it is practically impossible to apply for an entry visa in China if there is no copy of a return plane ticket, which I did not have because my objective was to enter China along the border with Laos. It is also necessary to provide proof of accommodation reservations during your stay in China.

I gave up! Following some advice, I chose to apply for a visa elsewhere, which in Thailand may be in Chiang Mai, or in Vientiane, capital of Laos, which in my case was more favorable.

I choose Laos because it was on the way to China…. the process in Vientiane proved to be simple and easy, taking no longer than 10 minutes, including the time for completing the application form, for a total of four pages.

 

Documents required for visa application to China:

  1. Passport valid for 6 months;
  2. Visa application form: it’s available in the embassy, duly filled in, which in addition to identification data, company name and contact details of the employer (may be fake data because this information is not verified by consular services) , should also include the planned itinerary and the number of days and should be excluded allusions to a visit to Tibet ;
  3. Photograph with light background;
  4. Copy of passport
  5. Copy of flight ticket: it is enough to one-way ticket; if you choose to enter China by crossing land border, the best is to forge a ticket based on any another, changing dates and names using Photoshop or other image editing software;
  6. Copy of bank statement proving financial means to bear the expenses of the stay;
  7. Proof of booking of accommodation: just send a few emails to various hotels or hostels to book room for the dates outlined in the application form for a visa; is then re-contact these entities to cancel the reservation; if they not accept reservations without payment of a percentage (the case of many lodges associated with Hostelworld), just take the email reply and edit the text confirming the booking.
  8. Cost

Single Entry                                          $ 30

Double Entry                                        $ 45

Multiple Entry valid for 6 months      $ 60

Multiple Entry valid for 12 months    $ 90

Multiple Entry valid for 24 months    $ 90

This amount can be paid in dollars or in local currency. In Bangkok payment is made in the embassy services, but in Vientiane is necessary to go to the Bank of China to make the payment, which adds a payment of 1,000 kip for bank charges.

For citizens with American passports the visa fee is $130.

  1. Visa is ready in 4 days.

Embaixada Chinesa em Vientiane, Laos (Chinese embassy in Vientiane, Laos)

Website: http://la.china-embassy.org/eng/

Email: chinaemb_la@mfa.gov.com

Ambassador: Mr. Bu Jianguo

Address: Wat Nak Road, Sisattanak, Vientiane, Lao P.D.R (P.O.Box 898)

Office Hours: 8:00-11:30, 14:00-17:00 Monday-Friday

Tel: +856-21-315100

Fax: +856-21-315104

Email: chinaemb_la@mfa.gov.com

Consular Office

Office Hours: 9:00-11:30 Monday-Friday

Tel: +856-21-315105

Embaixada Chinesa em Bangkok, Tailândia (Chinese embassy in Bangkok Thailand)

Website: http://www.chinaembassy.or.th

Email: chinaemb_th@mfa.gov.cn

Ambassador: Mr. Guan Mu

Address: 57, Ratchadapisek Road, Bangkok, 10310, Thailand

Tel: +66-2-2450088, 2457043, 2457044 (direct)

Fax: +66-2-2468247

Consular Office

Office Hours: 09:00-11:30, Monday-Friday

Tel: +66-2-2457033, 2457036 (24 hour Auto Answer), 2478970 (14:00-17:00 Working Day)

Fax: +66-2-2472214

China Visa
China Visa

 

 

Food in China… so much choice!

This is a difficult subject to address given the gastronomic diversity of China and the short visit to the provinces of Sichuan and Yunnan provide good examples, so it is difficult to choose a traditional dish or a typical meal that is homogeneously found in all places.

However, in the visited areas, restaurants can easily be found where the common denominator is the existence of a fridge where the available food is exposed, from vegetables, meat, mushrooms, tofu, eggs… and from where the customer can chooses the desired combinations, which are cook in a few minutes. The dishes the come to the table are always shared among the group of friends or family, gathered around the table, being polite to remove one piece of food at a time and put it in the bowl, from where, after mixing with a piece of rice it’s eaten. At the end of the meal, it is respectful to leave some food on the plates, a sign of the abundance of food.

Contrary to what is common in Southasian countries, in China it’s unusual to find “street-food”. The most popular and economical option is the small family restaurants, informal and open to the street, where the kitchen is located at the entrance of the restaurant advertising the menu. The most common in these eateries is the noodles soup with all the possible meat variations: pork, beef, chicken, intestines and other internal organs… ghrrr!

In fact, China is not an easy country for vegetarians, and the concept itself is a kind of unknown is more remote areas, even among the Buddhist and the Tibetan communities. Although, vegetables are a constant presence in Chinese meals that are compost by several dishes where meat is an almost mandatory presence. The tofu, as a Chinese intention, is easy to find both in restaurants menus as in snack stall, as it is part of traditional food the tofu isn’t seen as a vegetable alternative as in western countries. Mushrooms are also very common and can be a good choice for vegetarian dishes. However, some traditional Chinese dishes are practically impossible to find without meat, fish or seafood, as is the case with dumplings, steamed buns and the dim sun. But rice and noodles dishes, stir-fry or in soups, are good alternatives for vegetarians as far as you can order them without animal meat… the communication is always the big issue!!! The good thing for vegans is that dairy is almost 100% excluded from the traditional Chinese cuisine, and things like cheese and milk are rare. On the other hand, soy milk is very popular and is part of the traditional Chinese food, particularly a the breakfast.

In Sichuan, famous for its aromatic pepper, the gastronomy stands out for the spicy taste present in almost all dishes, from soups, stir fry or grill. The ingredients, usually vegetables and meat, often cook in a thick of spicy gravy, come wrapped in oil, but with a delicious and aromatic!

In areas closer to the Tibet Autonomous Region you can find some of the typical Tibetan dishes, although the number of restaurants serving them is small compared to the overwhelming presence of Chinese food restaurants. It stands out the traditional tupka, a soup of vegetables or meat, in a thick broth and with barley pasta cut roughly in pieces. The dumplings that in the Tibetan version are called momos, are also traditional in this area and can be found as a morning meal.

Traditionally from the cold Tibetan areas is butter tea that accompanies meals. The salty butter’s taste stands out in this drink, which as it cools creates a thin layer of fat at the surface.

Refeição típica chinesa, em que dois ou mais pratos acompanham uma tijela de arroz. Sempre presente está o chá que muitas vezes é disponibilizado gratuitamente
Typical Chinese meal where two or more dishes are eaten with steam rice. The tea is the most common drink and many time is served for free at the restaurants.

Sopa à base de noodles sobre os quais é despejado um caldo e são acrescentados legumes ou carne, assim como condimentos salgados ou picantes, de acordo com o gosto de cada pessoa
noodles soup

Legumes no mercado de Dali
Dali Market

Raiz de lótus, à venda no mercado de Dalí, muito popular na gastronomia chinesa
Lótus root, at Dalí market

ovos sujeitos a um prolongado processo de fermentação tornando a clara transparente e que lhes confere um gosto muito particular cuja intensidade os torna repulsivos para certos paladares
fermented eggs with a funny smell and taste… that doesn’t suite everyone

Legumes no mercado de Dali
Dali market

sopa fria de noodles: encontra-se por vezes ao fim da tarde nas ruas das cidades de Yunnam, onde pequenas banca oferecem um diversidade de noodles, tanto em forma, cor e sabor, que são condimentados com um molho picante, algumas ervas frescas, cebolinho e amendoim ralado
Cold noodles soup: easy to find in the end of the day in the street of Yunnan cities, seasoned with spicy sauce, fresh h and grind peanuts

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Amazing dinner prepared by my two travel mates. The food is an serious issue in China, and is always prepared with fresh ingredients brought everyday in the markets

dumplings feitos de massa de arroz, geralmente recheados de carne, e cozinhados ao vapor. São uma das mais populares opções par ao pequeno almoço, com os restaurantes fazendo-se anunciar pelas grandes panelas metálicas constituídas por diversos tabuleiros, de onde sai um intenso vapor que se espalha pelas ruas; são acompanhados por um molho picante e por vezes com um caldo feito à base de arroz cozido, simples e praticamente sem sal
dumplings made with rice dough, usually fill with meat and steamed, are the most popular option for the breakfast. the eateries that serve the dumplings are easily spotted by the big metal pans that stand outside the front door

outra opção de pequeno almoço, com uma sopa de noodles de sabor acre e ácido, acompanhada de ovo cozido e de pão frito, de massa semelhante às “farturas” mas de sabor salgado
another option for the breakfast are the noodles soup with a sour taste, served with egg and fry bread

panelas para cozinhas dumplings ao vapor e o pão frito em forma de longos palitos, que se pode também encontrar no Laos e na Tailândia como acompanhamento da primeira refeição da manhã
dumplings pan and the fry bread that is also traditional in Thailand and Laos

Cozinha de um restaurante na China
Kitchen from a restaurant in China

Cozinha de um restaurante na China
Kitchen from a restaurant in China

Cozinha de um restaurante na China
Kitchen from a restaurant in China

noodles frescos à venda no mercado de Chengdu
fresh noodles at Chengdu market

dumplings de vegetais acompanhando um "sumo" feito de arroz muito cozido ligeiramente adocicado e que constitui uma das populares opções para acompanhamento do pequeno-almoço a par com o leite de soja
vegetarian dumplings for breakfast and a drink made with soy milk

cabeças de pato e pescoços de galinha, grelhados e condimentados: popular como snack entre refeições
duck heads and chicken necks can be a snack between meals

Um dos pratos pelo qual a gastronomia de Sishuan é muito popular em que num caldo espesso e oleoso, condimentado com especiarias e pimenta, são cozinhados vegetais, cogumelos e algas, com ou sem carne, decorado com cebolinho e sementes de sésamo, e que é acompanhado de arroz
One of the most popular Sichuan dishes, a thick and oily gravy, seasoned with spices and pepper, where meat, mushrooms or vegetables are cooked

O tofu encontra-se presente em muitos restaurantes, sendo contudo mais fácil de encontrar nas grandes cidades
The tofu is easy to find in China, and is a good alternative to vegetarians in a gastronomy where the meat is a constant presence

restaurante junto à estação de comboios de Chengdu que dispõem de tofu confecionado localmente e onde os dumplins são cozinhados nos tradicionais recipientes de bambu
eatery in Chengdu with tofu and dumplings cooked in the traditional bambu baskets

pão feito de massa de arroz e cozido ao vapor, muito popular nas zonas regiões tibetanas, e que pode ser simples ou recheado de legumes, carne (quase sempre porco), cogumelos ou à base de feijão azuki que lhe confere um sabor ligeiramente doce
steamed bread, popular in tibetan areas, that can be plain or filled with meat, vegetables or with Azuki beans that give a touch of sweetness

queijo à base de leite de yak, e que no caso de ser fumado adquire um tom acastanhado; apesar do aspecto tosco a este queijo tem uma forte consistência apresentando-se compacto e “borachoso” ao mastigar
cheese made with yak milk

Hot-pot, muito popular em vários países asiáticos, mas com diferentes cambiantes em relação aos ingredientes, mas reservada para dias festivos ou jantares de fim de semana, em que um caldo é mantido quente com ajuda de carvão ou de um dispositivo elétrico ou a gás, colocado na mesa, e onde os comensais vão mergulhado os diverso ingredientes. Na região do Tibete, este prato é constituído por legumes, cogumelos, algas e algumas tiras de carne que vêm já misturadas com o caldo.
Hot-pot, reserved for special day and family gatherings. Different ingredients are cooked in a stock that is kept war at the table.

Tupka tibetana
Tupka, tibetan traditional soup that can be made vegetarian

uma sopa à base de dumplins recheados de legumes na região de Sertar, mais ligada à gastronomia do Tibete... deliciosa para aquecer o corpo e o espírito nos frias noites do planalto tibetano
dumplings soup in Sertar region, a warmer Tibetan version adjust to the colt temperatures

Myanmar food… where India meets China!!

Reflecting the cultural and ethnic diversity of this country, situated between the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia, the Burmese cuisine is very rich and diverse, where is visible a strong Indian and Chinese influence.

Compared to neighbouring Thailand, Burmese dishes may seem poor and too simple, but have the advantage of offering a wide variety of tastes in the same meal, ranging from salty to bitter, and from spicy to sour. Away from the refined palates and sweet taste of Thai curries, and with a strong presence of oily and deep-fried food.

Both meat and fish, from river or sea, are present in many of the thick and fatty curries, that usually are part of a traditional Burmese meal. Around a big bowl of rice are served small plates, with these curries as also lentils or beans stewed, stir-fry vegetables, raw vegetable salads, pickled bamboo shoots, a platter of fresh vegetables such as okra, green beans, small eggplants, cabbage, etc…. A broth of vegetables, very light and clear, is served in a small bowl with this meal, that can be flavored with raw garlic, chilies, and a mixture, dry or oily, of dried shrimps.

mohinga, pela facilidade em se encontrar nas ruas de qualquer cidade ou povoação, à beira da estrada, junto a mercados ou em ruas secundárias, pode ser considerada o prato mais popular entre os birmaneses, sendo muitas vezes consumido ao pequeno almoço.
“mohinga”, a noodle soup, easy to find on streets stalls of any city or town, as also in markets; it can be considered the most popular dish among the Burmese, often consumed at breakfast

pão frito, uma espécie de farturas mas sem açúcar, que é popular ao pequeno-almoço como acompanhamento do café ou do chá
deep-fried bread, light and without sugar, which is popular for breakfast or with a tea or coffee

preparação da let thoke, uma salada à base de massa, legumes frescos como tomate e couve, com muitos anónimos e indecifráveis condimentos, tudo ligado com farinha de grão e misturado com as mãos
Preparation of “let thoke”, a noodle salad, made with fresh vegetables such as tomato and cabbage seasoned with many anonymous and indecipherable condiments, all mix with chickpea flour and fresh hands

let thoke
“mohing” on the left and “let thok” right…  on the back is cooked plain rice, served with the broth, that often is served as side dish of salads

ingredientes para mohinga e let thoke
ingrediants for the “mohinga” and “let thoke”

Burmese meals are usually taken among family and friends who gathered around the table sharing the various dishes and mixing them the plate with small pieces of rice. Meals are taken in quiet, little given to conversation, with attention directed to the food.

The tea is always served with meals, as also in almost all places, from tea shops, restaurants, cafes and even street stalls, which is available for free, keep in the thermos or in the traditional kettles, and drunk in small bowls, that usually are waiting on the top od the tables.

A regular presence at meals and also used for the preparation of salads is the “laphet”, a fermented green tea leaves mixture, that have very characteristic acid flavor.

The “laphet” in the main ingredient of one of the most popular salads, which also have chopped tomato, cabbage finely sliced, crispy fry peanuts, chickpeas or broad beans also fried and is seasoned with lime juice. To this mixture, that is served cold, can be added rice, getting the name of “támin dhouq”.

Another popular salad is let “thoke” made from wheat noodles (that differ from the traditional rice noodles by the yellow color), that is mixed with vegetables and seasoning with mysterious sauces; all these ingredients are involved with chickpea flour, to become less wet, resulting in a strong meal, good the start of the day.

preparação de fritos à base de lentilhas, pequenos peixes ou de camarão seco, que depois de fritos forma uma espécie de bolacha que poder ser consumida como um snack ou como acompanhamento de sopas
deep fry salty crackers to eat with the burmese soups

doces de massa de arroz recheados com uma pasta feita à base de côco fresco e açúcar
sweets made from rice flour and fill with fresh coconut and sugar. they are cooked over the fire along the street of Mandalay, resulting in a sponge texture

restaurante de rua em Yangon
Street restaurant at Yangon

praticamente toda a comida é confeccionada em fogões a lenha, tanto em restaurantes como, nos mercados e em bancas de rua
In Myanmar almost all the food is cooked with fire stoves

restaurante de rua em Yangon
street restaurant at Yangon

But the most popular dish of Burmese cuisine is undoubtedly the “mohinga”: rice noodles soaked in a thick fish broth mix with vegetables and banana trunk sliced… yes! the tender parts of the trunk of the banana tree are also used for cooking in Burma. Sometimes this broth is flavored with fish or crab, but due to the overcooking, just the taste remains.
This soup is seasoned with onion, fried or raw, garlic, dried chilis, fresh coriander and a few more condiments coming out from anonymous bottles that are placed around the table where this dish is prepared. The “mohinga” is a typical Burmese street food, prepared and sold in small street stalls that are set up early morning and run until around 9 or 10 a.m, return in the afternoon, around 4 p.m. until sunset.

The “mohinga” soup can be enhanced with samosas, fried tofu or some fried vegetables, chopped and placed on top. But usually, this soup has a topping of a crispy wafer, made from lentil flour, and fried in oil.

For vegetarians, there are several options in the Burmese cousin, and it’s not difficult to find, especially in big cities, in the neighbourhoods dominated by Hindu and Indo-Burmese population. From neighbouring India, particularly from the southern state of Tamil Nadu, come the curries and dosas, as also parathas, naans, and samosas… in more Muslim areas or neighbourhoods, it’s particularly easy to find the “biryanis”, rice mixed with a meat curry, but in Burma is easy to find a vegetarian version of this dish.

salada let thoke
“let thoke” salad where the funny taste of fermented the green leaf mis with the fry peanuts

Venda de doces junto ao mercado no centro da cidade de Yangon
Sweet sold in on of the markers that every morning fill up the Yangon streets

o famoso MSG, ou mais comumente designado de glutamato monossódico, um intensificador de sabor que está mais ou menos presente na confecção da comida que se encontra nos restaurantes e nos vendedores ambulantes, um pouco por todos os países do sudoeste asiático, mas que na Birmânia é mais evidente, chegando a ser usado em substituição do sal
The MSG, a kind of salt that is a popular presence in Asian food, but that in Myanmar is very common leaving a thirsty sensation in the month

várias variações de arroz glutinoso, que pelo seu paladar naturalmente adocicado serve de snack ou complemento ao pequeno-almoço, dificilmente se encontrando à venda depois das dez da manhã
Stick rice with different presentation… some more salty, others more sweet… the black one is my favourit

Being the curries the most popular of the traditional Burmese cuisine, and despite Burma being a Buddhist country, it’s not so easy to find vegetable curries, especially in rural areas where the options are limited to chicken or pork. But is always possible to have a proper meal, with rice and the others side-dishes that are usually served with the meal, like stews, beans, raw vegetables, etc…
In the cities, usually by the end of the day, there are several stalls that make fried rice or fried noodles, and as the food is prepared in the moment is always possible to ask to use just vegetables.

Both meat and fish can be cooked fresh, and are sold in all markets, that work both early in the morning as in the evening; but at the end of the day, the hygienic conditions deteriorate significantly by the intense heat and by the presence of flies… lots of flies. But the dried fish are also very popular, filling large areas in the markets with its characteristic smell which joins the dried seafood, often tiny shrimp, widely used in the preparation of salads. The dried meat is also part of Burmese cuisine, and easy to identify in curries by its dark color and compact texture.

preparação de comida num dos muitos restaurante de rua em Yangon
street food at Yangon

confecção de noodles numa das ruas de Yangon, onde a pasta feita à base de farinha de arroz e água é “espremida” através de um passador específico, para dentro de uma panela de água a ferver, ficando cozidos em pouco mais de um minuto
making rice noodles in the streets of Yangon

Restaurante de rua em Yangon servindo os tradicionais pequenos-almoços indianos de dosa e puri, acompanhado de sambar e chutney de côco.
South Indian style breakfast, “dosa” and “puri”, served with sambar and a spicy coconut chutney

laphet, folhas de chá verde fermentadas
“laphet”… fermented tea leafs

açúcar de palma, também designado de jageri, que se encontra à venda nos mercados, apresentando-se quase em “bruto” de aspecto escuro ou mais “limpo” ganhando tons de amarelo-torrado, mas sempre de cheiro e sabor intensos, bem longe do excessivo e artificial sabor do açúcar refinado a que estamos habituados
Palm sugar, also call “jageri”, with a intense flavour and smell

refeição típica birmanesa, com sopa e vários acompanhamentos que se misturam com o arroz
typical Burmese meal, with rice, soup, vegetables and salad… in a vegetarian option without the greasy meat of fish curries

pequeno restaurante em Nyaung-U, com a salada de laphet, foi acompanhada da cerveja Myanmar, a mais popular, num país onde o consumo do álcool não é muito evidente, com excepção dos Thingyan Festival e acontecimentos especiais, onde cafés e a maioria dos restaurantes não vende bebidas alcoólicas
restaurant at  Nyaung-U

And now the sweets!!!… they are an important aspect of a gastronomy of any country, and Burma offers plenty of variety: from traditional Indian sweets to the Chinese cakes, stuffed with a chickpea mixture. In general, the Burmese sweets are made from rice, both from glutinous rice as from dough made with rice flour, creating consistent and gelatinous puddings and tarts, mainly with a wet texture.
Very often the condensed milk is used as a sweetener, and is very easy to identify by the taste, as also by the can, always present in shops, restaurants, tea-shops and street stalls
These sweets have frequently a fresh grated coconut topping, or in the case of glutinous rice, a mixture of roasted sesame with salt, which brings an excellent contrast to the sweetness of the condensed milk.
Another specialty is the puddings made with semolina: sweet, sticky but delicious, that can also be made with over cooked rice or noodles.
To this rice sweets, there is also a big variety of deep fry sweet dough, filled or not with a sweet bean paste or lentils, the soft and oily crepes filled with the same mixture, and fried bananas, a Thai influence but here a heavier and greasy version.
Besides sweet shops, that usually can only be found in larger cities, the best place to try these delicacies are the markets where ladies sell sweets made by themselves, giving a homemade taste and creating many variations from city to city and even from stall to stall, a show of creativity and diversity.

sumo de cana de açúcar, feito na hora, e que é verdadeiramente irresistível nas horas de maior calor, juntado à frescura do gelo a aparente energia do açúcar, com o suave e fresco paladar da cana de açúcar... até parece uma coisa saudável!!!
Sugar cane juice, it’s irresistible during hot days, giving freshness and energy

preparação de pahratas num estabelecimentos em Mandalay
dough for “pahratas” waiting to be cooked

espécie de puri de tamanho gigante, pão frito numa chapa sobre as brasas com um pouco de óleo e que companha geralmente com um caril de grão ou de lentilhas, refeição reservada para o pequeno-almoço, numa clara influencia indiana
A giant “puri”, flat bread cooked in a metal surface over the fire, that is a influence of the Indian gastronomy

Como acompanhamento do chá ou de um café tomado ao meio da manhã, os dumplings, recheados de carne ou de feijão, são herança das comunidades de origem chinesa que se encontram espalhadas por toda a Birmânia
The “dumplings”, sweet or sour, fill with meat or beans, are an influence of Chinese cuisine and are popular with a tea or a coffee takes in one of the many tea shops

Salada de pahrata, onde esta é cortada em tiras e servida com cebola, uma variante birmanesa à indo-muçulmana pahrata
This is a “pahrata” salad a oily snack served with raw onions; a Burmese twist to the south Indian “pahrata”

Numa das ruas de Yangon, encontram-se pequenas bancas de venda de comida, em especial durante a manhã, altura em que os fritos são muito populares, seja bananas seja somente de massa simples, recheada de lentilhas ou grão
Several kinds of deep-fry stuff that are a bit everywhere in the streets of Yangon, usually early morning or later, in the end of the afternoon

Loja de venda de carne seca, muito consumida na Birmânia, assim como o peixe
Dry meat in a shop in Yangon in a country where due to the long distances is still very common to find dry meat and dry fish in the markets

Like other Asian countries, there is here what we call the “cult of the table”, with food is taken when one is hungry, despite the time of the day, without starters or deserts. Food can be found almost everywhere, from restaurants to markets as also t the countless street stall, that can be found a bit everywhere, from the big cities to small villages. Knives are absent and all the food consumed with a spoon and sometimes a fork.

Despite you can have food during all day, there are specific times for each kind of meal, with markets, shops and streets stalls being subject to very specific schedule, which requires some effort to learn and incorporate. For example: you can’t find “mohinga” at lunch time, as also impossible to find pahratas in the middle of the morning, who wants to eat “samosas” will have to wait for the end of the day, and those who choose a “laphet” salad to accompany a beer will have to wait for the sunset. However, the big cities like Yangon and Mandalay are more flexible since there are many restaurants, while small towns the food is mostly consumed in markets and streets stalls, where is very often the takeaway system, here called “pásê”.

mohinga numa das ruas de Sittwe, que foi quase sempre a minha opção nesta estadia na Birmânia, seja como pequeno-almoço ou como um vespertino jantar pelas quatro e meia da tarde, pois às cinco horas já esgotou!!!
One of the many “mohinga” that were my favourit option for breakfast… this one in a backstreet in Sittwe

A mohinga da despedida da Birmânia, servida à beira da estrada de acesso ao posto fronteiriço de Myawady minutos antes de cruzar a fronteira com a Tailândia
The last “mohinga” before leaving Myanmar, served in a road side restaurant nearby the Myawady border crossing to Thailand

Above all, what stands out in Burmese cuisine is its diversity, varying significantly from region to region, and even from city to city, being a result of the geographic presence of Burma between the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia. The markets reflect the local products, subject to seasonality and to the local products, in a country where the weak transport system don’t promote big exchanges and where the political system are not open to  imports, keeping the Burmese gastronomy almost intact.

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I’m Catarina, a wanderer from Lisbon, Portugal… or a backpack traveller with a camera!

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