Search Results for: indonesia

Bogor and the thunders

Bogor is famous for the thunders that are a daily presence during the transition between rainy season to dry season… and the same happens before the monsoon. The thunders bring rain… and the rain left behind a humidity that sticks to the skin… the humidity that with the warm temperature create the perfect conditions for the growth of a big range of tropical plants.

The botanical garden, created during the Dutch colonization, and is the central attraction of Bogor, as also the geographic center of the city… a quiet paradise of green surrounded by busy and noisy streets where the traffic is intense and frantic. The Bogor Botanical Garden is a perfect place to spend a few hours and to explore without rush. How peaceful can be the contact with nature?! It looks like it brings a balance, a reconnection with nature.

Where to sleep in Bogor:

There aren’t many options in Bogor for backpackers, but even if there were, Tom’s Homestay is the place to stay in town! The house located close to the Botanical Garden and has a lot of character, despite being in the need of a bit of remodeling…. the owner, Tom is a super nice host and will provide all the necessary information about places to visit in Bogor, as well on the surroundings… where to find cheap food, local products, etc. He can take you to short tours to temples, waterfall and other Bogor attractions for a very low price, using local transport, and it will cost you very little.

He was a very helpful source of information about how to move around, and how to go to Jakarta… and he has the gentleness to pick me and take me to the bus terminal…. and all the hassle to go with me to the immigration office!!! Thanks Tom for your good heart.

Strongly recommend Tom’s Homestay. http://tomshomestay.com/home (you can contact him also by phone call or SMS)

The room is 100.000 Rp included breakfast; water, tea and coffee are available for free.

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Tom’s Homestay is the place to stay in town!

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Where to eat in Bogor:

The Simpang Raya Bogor is a restaurant with padang food, where you can choose what to add to your rice plate and pay according to the item that you choose. There are many options that change everyday.

This place is a favorite of local people. The food is delicious and it worth to go there even if the prices are a bit higher than usual at this kind of places. I pay 30.000 Rp for a plate full of food, from aubergine, veg curry, egg, omelet and papaya leafs.

The Simpang Raya Bogor Restaurant is located on Jalan Raya Pajajaran, just next to the Holland Bakery.

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Simpang Raya Bogor is a restaurant with padang style

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How to move around in Bogor:

The angkot, mini-vans with green colour that are the most common public transport in Bogor. They have a number according to the destination. Ask the help of someone local people. There are a lot of angkot moving on the streets that make a ring around the Botanical Garden.

The angkot fee is 7.000 Rp (maximum) inside the city.

How to move around in Bogor: The angkot, mini-vans with green colour that are the most common public transport in Bogor.

How to go from Jakarta (Kampung Rambutan) to Bogor:

By bus:

Coming from Jakarta you must go to the Kampung Rambutan Bus terminal, on the south part of the city.
From there you look for the departure stand number 28. At 6:00 a.m. departure the a/c bus to Bogor that uses the highway toll. Is faster than the normal bus. It takes 45 minutes (depending on the traffic) and ends the trip at Barangsiang Terminal, very close from Botanical Garden. The ticket cost 10.000 Rp.
Outside the Barangsiang Terminal you’ll find the angkot (a green colour mini-van) to different parts of the city. The angkot fee is 7.000 Rp maximum inside the city.

By train:

You can catch one of the trains leaving from Jakarta Kota Train Station (Stasiun Jakarta Kota) that go to Bogor…. there are many during all day.

How to go from Jakarta (Kampung Rambutan) to Bogor by bus

How to go from Bogor to Jakarta Airport:

There are DAMRI buses (Indonesian state-owned public transit bus company) from Bogor to Soekarno–Hatta International Airport, Jakarta international and domestic airport. The DAMRI terminal is close to the Botanical Square, at Jalan Jalan Raya Pajajaran.

They are comfortable and have air-con. The trip takes around two hours but watch out that the traffic can make this trip much longer….

See prices and schedule below (May 2017).

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How to go from Bogor to Jakarta Airport. Ticket fee

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How to go from Bogor to Jakarta Airport.

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How to go from Bogor to Jakarta Airport. Schedule.

Buta Karas… finally the waves!

After more than 6 weeks traveling in Indonesia, enjoying the warm and clear waters from Bali and Lombok, there a was thing that was missing: the waves! As a native from a city close to the Atlantic coast, I’m used to waves, big or small, but always waves… of course that the still waters of tropical white sand beaches are amazing, but I always get a bit bored after a few minutes at the sea if there isn’t the same action!

And in Batu Karas (also written as Batukaras), on the south coast of Java, a few kilometers west from Pangandaran I found a good combination, between nature and waves. But the south coast of Java is famous for surf, due the strong currents, and Batu Karas, once an unnoticed fishing village, has become a name on the surf scene in Indonesia, with a small bay where a rock break the ocean currents, creating organized waves a few meters from the shore, perfect for beginners… and with a sandy bottom!

But to make it clear, Batu Karas has two beaches: a small one that has the surf spot, that is also good to swim despite the strong current that due to the shallow bottom is not danger… the other beach, immediately east located in front of the Batu Karas village, is a very long stretch of sand with a rough sea, strong waves and a rocky bottom that is not inviting or safe to swim, and where is located the fishing activity.

Batu Karas is surrounded by a very beautiful landscape where the green is everywhere, the rice fields, a lagoon, the mangroves… a lot of natural vegetation in a chill and relax atmosphere, where only the weekend visitors bring some agitation. Most of the people stay here for surf, and everywhere you look you see surfboards or people passing by in vintage cars and scooters on the way to the beach with the board hanging on the side!

Batu Karas_Java_Indonesia_DSC_5844 — Around Batu Karas village there are many paths to explore along rice fields and forest

We can say that Batu Karas is an idyllic place where a visit can easily get stretched for a week or so… but this place, as many others, suffers from the greediness of some people. A few people capable of ruining your mood… Unfortunately, most of the people that speak English will start a conversation in a relax mode, looking like they want to help you, but for sure will end up trying to push you for surf lessons, a tour, a scooter, a guide… it’s a bit annoying and a waste of energy. And if you don’t get any of their services the friendliness ends quickly, and they will not help you with anything. As Buta Karas is a small place is difficult to avoid this local mafia… is like that in many places, but is sad!

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What to do in Batu Karas:

Batu Karas is focused on the surf, but there are a few things to do while you wait for the tides.

The Mangrove is located about 4 km from Batu Karas. Is better to rent a scooter, but you’ll find ojeks on the way that take you there for 20.000 Rp. I did it on foot, as it was a cloudy day and not so warm, but is better starts early morning. The way to reach the mangrove is very nice landscape with rice fields and a countryside lifestyle. Very relax and pleasant. The last part there are a lot of fisheries under construction, that make the way more difficult and less quiet. The entrance ticket is just 5.000 Rp, both for national as for foreigners!!!! There is a wooden path through the mangrove that ends at the lagoon. Is a nice place to chill, surrounded by the tropical humidity of the lagoon listening to the wakes break on the nearby beach.

Mangrove. Batu Karas

The Green Canyon is the most popular tour, not just for the foreigners but also for the local population that comes from nearby cities. It can be crowded on the weekends and holidays. You need a boat to reach there, and according to how far you want to go (just see the canyon, swim or jump from a rock) there’s a different price. The shortest trip cost 200.000 Rp for a boat that can be shared by six people. So if you are alone just arrive in the morning and wait at the ticket counter for more people to share the boat. I arrive in the afternoon, and not many people saw up, and the ones that come were already in big groups, so after two hours of waiting, I skip this place. At the weekends you have more change to join to the family groups but don’t expect a quiet and chill trip!

Watch the fishermen (and women) pulling the nets from the sea at the end of the day at Batu Karas beach (not the surf beach). You need to walk a bit east along the beach until you spot a concentration of boats. It’s an enjoyable walk that you can do around 4.30 p.m. when the sun is less strong.

Crossing the Bamboo Bridge, a short cut from Cijulang to Batu Karas, that crosses beautiful landscapes along a river, with some forest and beautiful views. Really special with the light before the sunset, or early morning. For this, you need a scooter, as it is too far to reach on foot.

Bambo Bridge that is part of a nice shortcut from Batu Karas to Cijulang

the shortcut from Batu Karas to Cijulang pass by a lagoon area as also through bamboo forest

Batu Hiu (shark rock) is located in the middle on the way between Pangandaran and Butakaras, a bit away from the main road. Is not much more than a small cape from where you can have nice view to beaches on both sides where the waves are quite strong. The place lost the natural look with some cheesy improvements and decoration… not really impressive for me!

Cagar Alam Pangandaran is a nature park located on a peninsula very close by Pangandaran. The ticket for local people is 16.000 Rp and for foreigners is 215.000 Rp. I didn’t even try, as it also look a lot more a recreation park than an intact nature reserve.

Cagar Alam Pangandaran. The ticket for local people is 16.000 Rp and for foreigners is 215.000 Rp

… and of course… surfing!!! On Saturday and Sundays Batu Karas get a lot of visitants from Pangandaran and other cities like Badung and Jakarta, changing totally the place, with the beach full of people where the women bath with clothes, that doesn’t make me feel confortable to sunbathe or swim with a bikini… So is better dress a t-shirt or avoid the beach on the weekends!

Where to sleep in Batu Karas:

At Batu Karas village is the biggest concentration of accommodation… villas, resorts, guesthouses, apartments, homestays… and the prices are above 100.000 Rp. There isn’t any hostel or a place with a dorm at Batu Karas.

But for me is more interesting to stay nearby the Batu Karas surf beach. There aren’t so many options here, but you can find a room for 100.00 to 200.000 Rp, as also a couple of resorts. My favorites, as also the cheapest are the few wooden houses that usually don’t have more than two or three rooms on the top floor. Some are a bit close to the road, so you can hear the traffic noise (not significant except on the weekends), bit others are close enough to the sea to hear the waves… and just about 2 minutes from the sea.

I stayed at the Wooden House from 100.000 Rp, a night for one person. The place is cozy but the bathroom is dodgy; the lady that runs the business is very nice and friendly, and try all to help even if she doesn’t speak English… but a certain point I was kicked out in the middle of my stay, by one of her relatives, just because someone was arriving and will pay a higher price for that room… what to do?!?!?

So, despite some argument, I was forced to move to another place, almost next door, the Lucky Luke Guest House. In fact a place with much better conditions that charge 125.000 Rp for one person. A big room, clean and confortable, with some furniture and a small balcony, run by a friendly couple that doesn’t speak English!

Just next door, still under construction (May 2017) there’s a cool place with room around 150.000 Rp, the Tree House Inn, that is easily identified by the colorful wooden doors. Contacts of Tree House Inn: 08.222.000.9155, 0821.3087.6531

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Where to eat in Batu Karas:

There are a few restaurants nearby the surf beach, serving the standard Indonesian food with a focus on the fish dishes, serving also western food, like pasta, chips and burgers. I try a couple of these restaurants and wasn’t impressed by any of them. The prices are slightly higher that you can find in the cities or in the countryside, but reasonable as we are far from any city or town.

At Batu Karas village there are a few option with local food, which sometimes are difficult to recognize if it’s an eatery or a house of someone.

I found a humble place with good food that I become fond of, going there every day. Is located on the main road of the village, nearby a crossroad (that has the Mangrove sign) opposite to Jelajah guesthouse: Warung Nasi Itikuri. The place is very simple and humble, but serving fresh and tasty food with the padang style, based on rice that you can add tofu, tempeh, jackfruit, egg, chicken… a meal, that includes a tea, cost around 10.000 Rp to 15.000 Rp (without meat or egg).

I couldn’t find any fruits in Batu Karas except coconut (10.000 Rp) nearby the parking area of the surf beach.

You can find basic stuff on the local shops, but the prices are higher (for example the the water bottle cost the double in Batu Karas). So for shopping is better to go to Cijulang where you can find, supermarkets, fruit shops, and some more option for meals.

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How to move around in Batu Karas:

You can walk around if your destination is not much that get some food or go to the beach.

But to go further you gonna need a scooter. There isn’t a scooter rent shop in Batu Karas but just ask at your guesthouse that they manage to get one. It costs 50.000 Rp/day… and if you need a helmet is better to ask in advance at this is not a common thing in this area.

You don’t need to show any documents: no driving license, no insurance, no nothing!… my scooter didn’t even have a plate number.

ATMs and Money exchange in Batu Karas:

There are a one ATM at Batu Karas village that accepts international cards.

Nearby the surf beach there are also shops that exchange money; but not that here the rats are not so good, so if you have the change is better to exchange your money in Yogyakarta or another big city.

How to go from Yogyakarta to Batu Karas:

No matter from where you came from, if you travel by public transport, you will need to go to Pangandaran. There’s no point to stay in Pangandaran, and the resort/hotel area nearby the beach is not charming. So, even if you are not coming here to surf, Butakaras is definitely the best option to stay.

From Yogyakarta, I took a bus to Pangandaran that cost 120.000 Rp. I bought the ticket online (www.bosbis.com) and pay it in one of the supermarkets (Indomaret or Alfamart, that charge 7.000 Rp commission). This service has the advantage that you can choose the pickup point and avoid a trip to the bus terminal, but on the other hand your day starts earlier… so the pickup time was at 7 a.m. but they just arrive one hour later (after many phone calls), and then they drop me at the office of the bus company to wait for more people. The bus just started around 9 a.m.
The trip from Yogyakarta to Pangandaran takes 7 hours; is a a/c bus but not very comfortable. It stops around 11 o’clock for food and rest,
The bus drops you at the Pangandaran terminal. From here you can catch a bemo (local transport like a mini-van, with beige color) that are waiting on the left side of the terminal entrance, to Cijulang. The trip cost 7.000 Rp and takes almost one hour.
At Cijulang (pronounces Xijulan) you need to get a ride to Butakaras from one of the ojek (moto-taxis) that are waiting at the entrance. It cost 20.000 Rp and the trip, along with a very beautiful landscape, takes not more than 15 minutes. There’s a bamboo bridge that is a short cut to Butakaras, if the ojek chose this way, you must pay 2.000 Rp to cross the bridge.
On the way back, from Butakaras to Cijulang you are at the mercy of the local mafia and can’t get a ride for less that 25.000 Rp.

_Pangandaran bus terminal_IMG_3343 — Pangandaran Bus Terminal. From here there are bemos to Cijulang. The trip cost 7.000 Rp and takes almost one hour.

Wi-fi in Batu Karas:

Almost any of the accommodations that I visit in Batu Karas have wi-fi. So just the most expensive places have this facility.

At surf beach, you can only find wi-fi at Java Cove Resort, which has a restaurant where you can just ask for a coffee and use the wi-fi.

How to go from Batu Karas to Jakarta:

You need to take an ojek from Butakaras to Cijulang as you are at the mercy of the local mafia you can’t get a ride for less than 25.000 Rp.
The ojek will drop you at Cijulang Terminal, where you can get the beige bemos (local transport like a mini-van) that are waiting there to Pangandaran. The trip cost 7.000 Rp and takes almost one hour.
The bemos will drop you at the Pangandaran Bus terminal (nearby a market). From there are buses to Yogyakarta (at 6:00 p.m., no a/c) and to Jakarta one at 7:00 p.m. (no a/c) and 8:00 p.m. with a/c. These buses don’t start at Pangandaran, so when they arrive at the terminal they are usually late.
The bus with a/c to Jakarta costs 95.000 Rp and ends at Kampung Rambutan Bus terminal, located on the south part of the city. The trip takes 8 to 9 hours. The first part is very bumpy and along secondary roads, but after Bandung the trip runs smooth.

A short guide to hang out in Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta is modern, cosmopolitan and has a lot to offer, being easy to stay here for a week or more without getting bored.

From stylish cafes, trendy restaurants, concept shops… Yogyakarta has a lot of cultural events going on in this city, away from the traditional dance and music, mostly tourist orientated.

This post is just an unpretentious short list of spots that worth to visit while you stay in this appealing city. But there’s a lot more to explore that is impossible to find in a short five-days visit to Jogja… the nickname for Yogyakarta, used by locals.

Yogyakarta has a perfect balance between the

… a few places to chill

Cokelat Monggo is an reference shop in Jogja, selling chocolate made from Indonesian cacao. At Jalan Tirtodipuran there’s a shop exclusively dedicated to this brand selling a big range of chocolate bars, but you can laos find Monggo products in other shops in Yogyakarta. The cafe next door is a chill place to hang out and try one of the chocolate treats available on the menu.

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Cokelat Monggo_IMG_3310 — Chocolate bars from Cokelat Monggo

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If you are walking on the long a exhausting Malioboro street, Margo Mulyo is a cool and unpretentious eatery to take a rest, eat or drink something in a place full of character… also very popular between the local population.

Kedai Kebun Forum, at Jalan Tirtodipuran, is a cultural association that promote several events and where you….can see art exhibitions, watch a movie and get updated about what’s going on in Yogyakarta art scene… There’s also a restaurant in a cool and quiet spot surrounded by trees and bamboos that is a nice place to hang out, reading a book and enjoying a Indonesian coffee.

www.kedaikebum.com

Local Markets

A good place to experience local lifestyle are the markets, locally called “pasar”… there are many around Yogyakarta, but from the ones that I visit I strongly recommend the Pasar Kotagede (also written as Kota Gede) as it is small, with the building focus on food products and with the streets around selling a bit of everything. Is better to go early morning when the market has more people and shows up more vibrant.

Is totally away from the Yogyakarta tourist beaten track, and not many foreigners come here… so be prepared to be the star!

Batik

A stay in Yogyakarta can avoid the batick, as is part of the city identity… and as soon our eyes get used to the intricate patterns of this traditional art of dyed, you’ll be attracted by the diversity of designs, styles and colors of this fabrics. The batik is good souvenir from this city, which is also representative of the Indonesian culture that in Java are used mostly as man shirts and as sarong by the women.

There are hundred of shops specialize in batik, some selling the fabric by meter, other as a sarong, a shirt, trousers, scarfs, shawls, etc… Even if you are not in the shopping mood, it worth visit a visit to a couple of these shops!

Along Jalan Malioboro there are also many shops, from the simple to the more sophisticated. Outside along the sidewalk there are an endless number of streets sellers, most of them with batik items.
Pasar Beringharjo (Jalan Malioboro) is definitively the highest concentration of batik sellers but the quality maybe is not the best and it’s quite busy place.
In front of Pasar Beringharjo, there a big and old school shop Mirota Batik (Jalan Malioboro), with big choice of products made form different batik technics, with a beautiful decoration that really worth to visit, even if you are not in the mood for shopping. It’s a classic shop that looks more like an institution in Yogyakarta and which is also a good place for souvenirs.
The Batik Winotosastro (Jalan Tirtodipuran) is a traditional shop of hand made batik that also includes a factory, that you can visit and learn the different processes to make the batik… and in the end you’ll understand why some of this fabrics are so expensive!
There is also some antique shops specialized in batik articles in Yogyakarta which you can find a few along Jalan Tirtodipuran.
Jalan Gamelan, inside the Kraton, has also a few shops but more focus on cloths made form batik fabrics, some of them sophisticated and made more for western customers.

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Pasar Beringharjo at the busy Malioboro Street, the heart of the comercial area in Yogyakarta

… because food matters

And because food matters… eating is also an important issue when we travel and an enjoyable food experience can change the perspective and the all experience of a place, that can be a city or a country.

The Indonesian food in not properly vegetarian, with the chicken being present in almost all menus. But there are a lot of dishes without meat or fish available in restaurants, warungs (restaurants), masakan padang and also at street food stalls that are a constant presence everywhere, since early morning until evening.

The tofu and tempeh are very popular, and eggs and steam vegetables (spinach, morning-glory and papaya leaf) are also common. Salads made with compressed rice and steam vegetables with a sweet peanut sauce – gado-gado and lotek – are also easy to find, mostly at street food stalls:

Here are some budget eateries that I try, most of them nearby them located near Mantrijeron (where I slept) and kampung Kraton areas.

Mirang Raya, Ruman Makan Massakan Padang (Jl Parangtritis, 117). Tasty food with many options and cheap price. Some of these Rumah Makan (restaurants) restaurants work on the self-service system, and not really matter the quantity that you put on your plate, but you pay according to the number of items you choose to your plate. A vegan meal costs 10.000 to 15.000 Rp.
Duta Minang, Rumah Makan Massakan Padang (Jl Mayjen D. I. Panjaitan, 50). The classic padang food with many delicious options in a more sophisticated atmosphere but also with the cheap prices, with a meal with tempeh, tofu, vegetables and egg cost 20.000 Rp.
Gudeg Bu Hj. Rini (Gudeg Wijilan). Jl Wilijan, 7… if you visit Yogyakarta you must try the gudeg… a jackfruit curry that despite the less attractive look is delicious!!! Along with this street, you’ll find a dozen of gudeg restaurants, but this one was recommended by local people and has friendly prices and a casual environment. A gudeg dish, with rice, egg, krecek (a yellow sambal) and gori (unripe jackfruit curry with coconut milk and sugar) costs around 11.000 Rp…. this is the original version but meat can be added.

where to eat Yogyakarta...Gudeg Bu Hj. Rini — where to eat Yogyakarta… Gudeg Bu Hj. Rini… you must try this local specialty. Maybe it done’s look inviting but is delicious

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Masakan Padang — Mirang Raya, Ruman Makan Massakan Padang (Jl Parangtritis, 117). Tasty food with many options and cheap price. Mantrijeron. Yogyakarta

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…a bit of a bite on the Yogyakarta street food

And as in any Asian country, the street-food is part of the gastronomic experience. And Indonesia offers a big choice always for a cheap price. And it’s safe! At least I have been eating street food daily for the last 6 weeks and no stomach problems!

There are street food everywhere around the center of Yogyakarta, and on a short visit is impossible to have a stomach to try everything… but in these particular places I found the tastiest options… vegetarians options:

Jalan Kemasan on the way to Kotagede Market (Pasar Kotagede), early mornings. Inside the market and in the shops around the market building there are also food stalls, that is good opportunity to try the Indonesian sweets that usually are not too sweet and buy some savory snacks to take-away.
Along Jalan Malioboro you find many food stalls with bakso (meatballs soup) and mie (noodles) options mainly concentrated on the top north of the street. There are as also food hawkers selling lotek (a mix of vegetables with peanut sauce on top… my favorite!), mainly located in the south part of the street.
There are also some street-food stalls along Jl Mayjen D. I. Panjaitan, with soups, nasi and gado-gado.
Deep fry stuff. Locally called gorengan, is widely available everywhere, but usually just in street-food stalls. Banana, tofu (tahu), chicken and tempeh are the most common ingredients of gorengan. At Yogyakarta is also easily available bolang baling… that are basically deep-fry dough with different shapes and slightly different taste, some of this are like doughnuts.

Bakso Soup in one of the quiete streets of Kraton. y+Yogyakarta — Bakso Soup in one of the quiete streets of Kraton. Yogyakarta

Goregan, fry tofu, banana, tempeh... at the sttreet of Yogyakarta — Goregan, fry tofu, banana, tempeh… at the streets of Yogyakarta

Nasi campur... a breakfast that can be eaten in the Yogyakarta streets — Nasi campur… a breakfast that can be eaten in the Yogyakarta streets

Yogyakarta street Art

Yogyakarta stands up for it’s cultural and artistic activity that is visible in the vibrant street art that is spread a bit everywhere in the city, as also for the number of galleries, antique shops, cultural centers and art associations.

The street art in Jogja is alive and creative, filling empty spaces of the city with a colorful creativity and a sharp imagination. Just walk around and let yourself being surprised by the art that comes out from the small alleys or abandons walls!… Mantrijeron is a good place to start!

Enjoy Yogyakarta!

Borobudur… without visiting the temple!

Borobudur raises a mix of conflict feelings. In one side this structure is the biggest Buddhist temple in the world. In the other hand, the price of the ticket raised recently to 20$ for foreigners, more than any museum and monument in Europe. So what to do?!?!… blow up the budget to get the ticket or see the temple from a far distance?

For a while that the issue of price discrimination between national and foreigners is popping up in my mind but with the time I kind of get used to this, as usually, the price is not substantial if your currency is euros or dollars. But sometimes, in places that are classified as World Heritage by UNESCO, this difference is significant, excluding many people that are traveling but don’t have a big budget, making the so-called “world heritage” accessible only for a few. (See my text about Lions Rock in Sri Lanka). So as also a way to stand my point of view I decide not condone with this strategy that I consider discriminatory.

So I choose the backpacker option of seeing the Borobudur temple from a far distance… the most popular is the Setumbu Hill, but I went a bit far up in the mountain to Sukmojoyo viewpoint where you have better views to the mounts that surround the valley: Yup, Merapi and Merbabu volcano. But… there’s many times a “but” in the stories and the clouds hide the sunrise wrapping the volcanoes. But this cloudy sunrise left a thick layer of mist that took a long time to raise from the ground, creating a magic and enchanted landscape.

sunrise from Sukmojoyo hill, nearby Borobudur

So from my experience, the conclusion is: or you spend the 20 dollars and join the crown to visit the Borobudur temple… or if not it doesn’t worth much to move there just to see the sunrise and the silhouette of the temple at a far distance.

So basically, in my opinion going to Borobudur without get in the temple is like going to Rome and don’t see the Pope!!! 😉

About the village of Borobudur, we can say that is not much more that a stop over in the tourists tour that visit the temple, with nothing specially characteristic that worth to visit. The local market, nearby the bus terminal has the typical lively atmosphere but with the vendors, exploited by the tourism, become a bit pushy.

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bakso soup in a vegetarian option with tofu instead of meatballs, Candirejo

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Where to sleep in Borobudur:

There are some accommodations in Borobudur, but the prices are a bit inflated due to the proximity to the temple, so I choose the Casa Java Homestay, located in the village of Candirejo, about 3 km from Borobudur. The owner, Dino is a very friendly host making all possible for you to feel comfortable in his homestay.

There are rooms, with and without toilet and a dorm that cost 80.000 Rp per person.

It really worth to stay here, in a quiet and peaceful rural area, full of nature, a river and bamboo forest… a nice place to make short walks. Here you can rent a scooter or hire the service of a tour guide (the cost is slightly the same) and move around.

Address: Candirejo, Brangkal, Borobudur, Candirejo, Borobudur

Phone: 0815-4814-3051

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Casa Java Homestay, located in the village of Candirejo, about 3 km from Borobudur

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How to visit Borobudur:

If you are in Yogyakarta you can rent a motorbike and start the trip to Borobudur around 3 a.m. The scooter costs 50.000 Rp/day. At Borobudur, you can decide if you just see the sunrise from the Setumbu Hill (need a 30.000 Rp ticket) or visit the temple.
If you cannot manage to ride a motorbike you can join one of many tours available in Yogyakarta, that cost around 100.000 Rp to 140.000 Rp but that only include transportation and sometimes a breakfast.
You can spend one night in Borobudur and wake up early to see the sunrise from Setumbu Hill and visit the temple after that, as it opens at 6 a.m. and the sunrise is around 5.30 a.m.
There are lots and lots of people visiting the temple, arriving on big buses during all day, most of them Indonesians, as the ticket id very cheap for local people. So don’t expect to be alone.

The temple saw from a far distance. Borobudur

How to go from Yogyakarta do Borobudur:

There are buses leaving every 15 minutes from Terminal Jombor, located in the north of Yogyakarta. It’s a small terminal and is easy to spot the bus to Borobudur.

The trip takes 1 hours and the ticket cost 20.000 Rp.

Terminal Jombor at Yogyakrta from the buses to Borobudur departure

Yogyakarta… the batik and the graffiti

Yes, the batik, this simple technique of dyeing fabrics that results in elaborate patterns, is definitively what pops up to your eyes as you arrive in Yogyakarta, or Jogja (jogh-jah) as it is locally called . But this city has much more to offer than this, being modern and cosmopolitan, but maintaining the charm of the traditional neighborhoods, where the pace of life with chickens here and there makes us forget that we are in a city.

Yogyakarta definitely is a city with charm with many things going on, where you can spend several days or even weeks without get bored.

The areas around the Taman Sari (Water Palace) and the kampung Kotagede are perfect for a random walk through the narrow alleys, too small for cars where only the motorbikes engines break the quietness of the place. Surrounding the Sultan Palace and limited by walls, the Kraton is a perfect place to wander along the grid of streets where the houses, painted with bright colours, have trees and nice gardens.

Due to the proximity to the temples of Borobudur and Prambanan, Yogyakarta becomes the most touristic city of Java, but it deserves all the attention, and the high concentration of tourism, don’t change much its character.

But Jalan Malioboro, the commercial street of Yogyakarta, is strongly orientated to the tourism, not just foreigners but also from Indonesia, with the sidewalks full of souvenirs sellers, generally with batik articles, dozens of becaks (cyclo-rickshaws) asking “where you go” and a lot of touts with an annoying conversation trying to push you art galleries or shops.

A bit less popular between the tourists is the Kotagede, a cozy and quiet neighborhood, but where the market (Pasar Kota Gede) gatherer all the activity, mainly early mornings, with the sellers occupying also the nearby streets. A vibrant and lively market where we are welcomed with nice smiles and a lot of curiosity. A good place out of the tourist route to find local and authentic lifestyle and where the usual question “were are you from?” just bring curiosity and joyfulness when I answer “Portugal”.

Pasar Kotagede. Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta stands up for it’s cultural and artistic activity that is visible in the vibrant street art that is spread a bit everywhere in the city, as also for the number of galleries, antique shops, cultural centers and art associations. The street art here is alive and creative, far from being institutionalized or controlled like you find in Penang, filling empty spaces of the city with a colorful creativity and a sharp imagination. There are a lot of trendy places to hangout from vintage shops, stylish cafes or concept restaurants, as also quite some art events away form the touristic gamlean concerts or traditional Javanese dance shows.

Where to sleep in Yogyakarta:

There are many options far all budgets… from sophisticated villas to backpacker’s hostels, from the formal hotels to family style guesthouses.

I stay on the south part of the city (south of Kraton) on the Mantrijeron neighborhoods. Mantrijeron has a good balance between local lifestyle and tourist facilities, and away from the main busy roads, you can find nice places to stay. My choice was the Losmanos Hostel a recently open hostel with different kinds of accommodation: dorm 60.000 Rp, single room 110.000 Rp and double room 150.000 Rp. All with shared toilet, by the way are super cool and with a nice decoration… and hot water! The dorm is very-very basic, with just a mattress, a pillow and a fan… there aren’t lockers.

The wi-fi is very good and the staff is very friendly and helpful. This place with a nice concept and decoration is giving is first steps but already has a good vibe!

There’s a link for a map made by the crew that runs the business, Emi and Aldy, which give you the location the most important things in town, from sightseeing to restaurants, from supermarkets to laundry, from moneychanger to souvenirs shops. Very useful information based on local the experience! Thanks folks for this!

Address: Jl. Tirtodipuran, Gang Lesmana, Mantrijeron, Kota Yogyakarta

Phone: (0274) 4221665

But watch out: the price of the accommodation can change according to weekend and holidays!!!! So make it clear before you check-in.

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Where to eat in Yogyakarta:

Basically, I just follow the Emi and Aldy map from Losmanos Guest House… there’s a lot of good tips on this map, most of them located near Mantrijeron and kampung Kraton areas.

Mirang Raya, Ruman Makan Massakan Padang (Jl Parangtritis, 117). Tasty food with many options and cheap price.
Duta Minang, Ruman Makan Massakan Padang (Jl Mayjen D. I. Panjaitan, 50). The classic padang food with many delicious options in a more sophisticated atmosphere but also with the cheap prices.
Gudeg Bu Hj. Rini (Gudeg Wijilan). Jl Wilijan, 7… if you visit Yogyakarta you must try the gudeg… a jackfruit curry that despite the less attractive look is delicious!!! Along with this street, you’ll find a dozen of gudeg restaurants, but this one was recommended by local people and has friendly prices and a casual environment.
Don’t miss the street-food along the streets of Yogyakarta… depending on the time of the day, you can find different types of food.

Gudeg... dosen't look appealing but is delicious this jack fruit curry! — Gudeg… doesn’t look appealing but is delicious this jack fruit curry!

Gudeg... — Gudeg menu in one of the best and cheap places at Yogyakarta…

There are street food everywhere around the city, and on a short visit is impossible to have a stomach to try everything… but in these particular places I found the tastiest options:

Jalan Kemasan on the way to Kotagede Market (Pasar Kotagede), early mornings. Inside the market there are also food stalls.
Along Jalan Malioboro you find many food stalls with bakso (meatballs soup) and mie (noodles) options mainly concentrated on the top north of the street. There are as also food hawkers selling lotek (a mix of vegetables with peanut sauce on top… my favorite!), mainly located in the south part of the street.
There are also some street-food stalls along Jl Mayjen D. I. Panjaitan, with soups, nasi and gado-gado.

Check more details at: A shot guide to hang ou in Yogyakarta

Sweets and snacks at Pasar Kotagede, that is one of the many options of street food available in Yogyakarta

How to move around in Yogyakarta:

Is a big city to do on foot!

The main train station (Tugu) is nearby the center of Yogyakarta but the bus terminals are located far out, like Jombor (buses to Borobudur).

There are a few options to move around Yogyakarta:

Trans Jogja: modern buses with air-con, that link the main points of the city, like the bus terminals, train station, the historic center, immigration, airport, etc… It’s fast, confortable and efficient. But the bus stops are located far away from each other’s, and you always need to walk a bit until finding one. There’s a map online where you can see the bus number and routes, but at each bus halt, there’s a helper that sell the tickets and will help you. The ticket costs 3.500 Rp, no matter the distance. Usually, I didn’t wait more than 15 minutes for a bus.
If you want to save some time, special for longer distances, the GoJek is the best, a moto-taxi service that you can call by a mobile application. A ride from the center to the immigration or airport cost around 000 Rp.
Rent a bicycle… this is the most enjoyable way to visit the Kraton and the small alleys of the old part of the city, but the main streets have quite some traffic… but bicycles are still very popular between local population.
“becaks”, a cycle rickshaws, are everywhere around the city, usually chilling at street corners while waiting for clients.

becaks (cyclo-rickshaws) are very popular way to moce around between the local people... as almost anyone move on foot — “becaks” (cyclo-rickshaws) are very popular way to moce around between the local people… as almost anyone move on foot

Arriving in Yogyakarta by train:

If you arrive by train you’ll probably end your journey at Tugu Train Station. The exit is not clear and maybe you will need to cross some lines and platforms until you find the exit. As you arrive at the street the usual ojeks and taxi drivers will approach you. The way is not clear and you’ll find yourself on a busy street, full of traffic, motorbikes and people.

But no stress, you just need to walk left, 400 meters until you reach a big T-junction. If you turn right you are at Malioboro Street (Jalan Malioboro) the commercial center of the Yogyakarta.

But probably you don’t want to stay in this area as the accommodation is more expensive and the concentration of touts trying to push you to art galleries or batik shops is high.

So, if you are planning to go to the south part of Yogyakarta, south from Kraton, you can get a Trans Jogja bus, at the bus stand located on the left side of the road, about 50 meters from the junction. At the bus stand (halt) the staff will help to get the right bus to your destination.

Trans Jogja: modern buses with air-con, that link the main points of the city that are the easiest and cheapest way to move around Yogyakarta — Bust stand of Trans Jogja at Malioboro street, the closest halt from the Tugu Train Station: modern buses with air-con, that link the main points of the city that are the easiest and cheapest way to move around Yogyakarta

Malang… a rest after the volcanoes

Not on the top of the must see in Java Island, Malang is a good place to chill for a couple of days between the intensity of the Ijen and Bromo volcano and the cosmopolitan of Yogyakarta.

And Malang as a certain charm, with trees creating a comfortable shade in almost all streets, and with many building still area preserves the colonial style, of a city established by the Dutch in the end of 18th century. But despite this heritage, there’s a modern lifestyle in Malang that match smoothly with the muslim hijab, with the younger population hanging out in stylish cafes and modern style bakeries.

For a bit a local lifestyle there’s a big market, Pasar Besar where the food area opens very early in the morning offering a good opportunity to try some of the homemade local sweets, in one of the many booths inside the market. Later, as the pace and agitation of the market slow down, is time for the shops located in the alleys around start to open and show up their products on the sidewalks.

There is also a birds and pets market, the Pasar Senggo and a few meters away from the flower market, Pasar Bunga, located in a cozy and more humble area of Malang, where you can easily get lost on the small narrow streets of the Kidul Dalem neighborhood. This characteristic area, with small colourful houses along narrow streets, away from the traffic chaos full of friendly people was a grateful surprise in Malang where the smiles are not so common. Kidul Dalem is located around Jalan Aris Munandar, Jalan Kyai Haji Zainul Arifin and Jalan Pasar Besar. One of the entrances to Kidul Dalem neighborhood is just in front of the Dewan Kesenian Malang Art Centre. You just need to get out of the main roads, passing by one of the gates, and get lost in this laid back neighborhood.

Malang_DSC_5455 — Malang, where is easy to find a presence of the colonial times in the arquitecture

One of the markets in Malang is dedicated to the commerce of birds, that is a strong hobby in Javanese culture

A street food stall on the center of Malang

Kidul Dalem... a cosy neighbourhood in the center of Malang, — Kidul Dalem… a cosy neighbourhood in the center of Malang, away from the noisy and busy main streets

Kidul Dalem... small streets with colorful houses, flowers and friendly smiles — Kidul Dalem… small streets with colorful houses, flowers and friendly smiles

At the Pasar Besar you can find the ingredients that make the Indonesian food so tasty. The tempeh, sold in pack or in big blocks is a constant presence in the Indonesia gastronomy

Malang_Javanese coffee_DSC_5469 — drinking coffee is part of the Indonesian culture, and here in Malang, is also a trendy with the youngest hanging around in stylish cafes

How to go from Cemoro Lawang (Probolingo) to Malang:

Bus to Probolingo: 35.000 Rp per person but if is not full (15 people) at departure time, the total cost of the ride will be divided by the number of passengers making the trip… but while I was waiting for the bus (there’s one around 9:30h) there was a private driver that was going town to Probolingo and I could manage a ride for 40.000 Rp.
From the Bus Terminal Bayu Angga, there are several buses to Madang. The public bus cost 000 Rp and took 2 hours. You buy the ticket inside the bus. When you arrive at the Bayu Angga, don’t trust much on the people hanging around, as most of them are touts trying to catch people for private companies. Instead go to the place from where the bus departure, where there are signs with the destination of each of them. There manage with the driver or his helper.
The bus drops you at the Terminal Arjosari, in North of Malang.
When you get out of the bus, walk in the opposite direction of the gate from where the buses enter. Walk following the majority of the people, and if anyone asks where you go just say “mikrolet”. You’ll arrive at an open-air area with a lot of blue bemos, the local mini-buses. This mikrolet are organized driving along fixed routes; they don’t have a number but letters, corresponding to the origin, destination and middle stops… just ask the drivers that are waiting there and they will point you the right
The mikrolet (local blue bemos) cost 5.000 Rp to the Train Station (just ask terminal), more or less the center of Malang. From there you cam walk on foot to your accommodation.

Public bus from Probolingo to Malang, that end at Arjosari Bus Terminal, on the north of the city

“mikrolet” are the most common public transport in Malang. If you arrive by bus to the terminal Arjosari, you can find the “mikrolet” terminal on the way out of the terminal.

Where to sleep in:

One of the budget options in Malang is the Kampong Tourist. Nice accommodation located on the top of a hotel building, with three huts as also a big dorm, build in an original way. The place is comfortable, clean and with very good conditions but the sleep can be easily disturbed by the traffic noise that comes from the streets around.

A dorm bed is 60.000 Rp, hot shower and good wi-fi connection, but that doesn’t reach the dorm area. The breakfast is not included. The staff in not very warm but is efficient.

www.kampongtourist.com

Kampong Tourist: good location, nice accommodation but your sleep can be disturbed by the traffic noise

Where to eat in:

Definitively, Warung Kuning, delicious homemade food, very tasty and with many options, served with friendliness. Opens from 6 a.m. until 4 p.m. As later you arrive, less choice you have, but is perfect for breakfast when all the food is fresh.

The Warung Kuning is located on Jalan Muhammad Husni Thamrin… just turn right as you come out from Kapong Tourist hostel and walk 10 meters.

The meals cost around 10.000 Rp but can be more if you add egg, meat or fish.

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Warung Kuning... just turn right as you come out from Kapong Tourist hostel — Warung Kuning… just turn right as you come out from Kapong Tourist hostel

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Warung Kuning delicious food for 10.000 Rp.

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Laundry:

The Kampung Tourist hostel has laundry for 14.000 Rp/kg

If you have much stuff to wash, you have a few laundries as you come out of the hotel, and turn right on the Jalan Muhammad Husni Thamrin where to2 kg of dirty clothes come clean and fresh by 10.000 Rp.

How to move around in:

On foot, you can reach the train station and also the Pasar Senggo (birds market), the Kidul Dalem and even the Pasar Besar.

There are many mikrolet linking the main points of the city, but for short distances, the most traditional way to move around are the becaks, a local version of the cycle rickshaw, mostly driven by old men, that hang around the markets area as also in many city corners. The price is negotiable.

To visit the Ijen Boulevard (I didn’t) is better you use one of this becaks, as you support this tradition, and the drivers that are mainly old men.

"becaks" driver at Malang — “becaks” driver at Malang

How to go from Malang to Yogyakarta:

Is a long 360 km journey, so I choose the most comfortable way, the train.

There are several trains link these two cities, but just one departure in the morning, the Malioboro Expresss, that just have third (Ekonomi) and first (Eksekutif) classes, with this last one costing 250.000 Rp but making the 7 hours trip very confortable.

Both train station are located in the center of the city.

For train schedules and ticket check: https://tiket.kereta-api.co.id/

Bromo… the breath of the earth

Feeling blessed fro this experience and pound of overcome some hard parts of the path, the dark cold of the night and the tiredness of a long-long hike, without giving up.

Arriving at Bromo, listening to the sound that comes from the center of the crater, a mix of boiling water with the sound from an earthquake… the breading of the earth. Such a power… such a memorable experience.

But the extraordinary moments lived in this visit to the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park started early in the morning, when before the first sun rays climb up the mountains, with the dawn light revealing a unreal landscape where the base of the three mountains – Bromo, Kursi and Batok – emerge from a thick layer of white clouds, giving the impression that these mountains are float in a cotton candy mattress.

But with the daylight the mantle of clouds slowly vanish, exposing a flat green plain, that is itself a center of an old volcano, which walls were almost all erased by erosion, but the one that is clearly visible is the location of Cemoro Lawang village.

The lava naked cone of Bromo volcano, emerge majestic and powerful in the lunar landscape, and the white dense smoke that comes from the crater reminds us this volcano is alive and can show is power at any moment!

Around there’s a wide and desert plain of black volcanic sand were a few plants try to survive… walking in this emptiness brings the feeling of total freedom, no boundaries, no limits… not even a footpath to follow!!!

Selling flowers to trow to the Bromo crater to pacify the volcano

Visit Bromo Volcano… DIY:

To visit Bromo National Park you don’t need a guide or a tour, but you need to walk a lot!!!!!… let’s say around 20 kilometers if you want to see the sun rise at the viewpoint and then go down to visit the volcano in the same day… is doable! I start at 4 a.m. and finish at 10.30 a.m. But don’t worry, ojeks (moto-taxi) are available everywhere, so if you start on foot and you feel that this hike is too hard you can get one ojek to save you some kilometers from your legs.

Jeep tours can be arranged at the guesthouses in Cemoro Lawang, but most of the people arrive here in tours from Malang and some from Probolindo (don’t recommend Probolingo as the city is famous for scams).

You don’t need special gear, just comfortable sneakers and warm clothes. It’s better to dress several layers that you can take off as the day warm’s up. Also, be prepared for the rain if you are visiting Bromo around April.
You need a ticket that cost 10.000 Rp. I couldn’t find the ticket counter and the guys also didn’t found me…
I start at 4 a.m. but need to walk fast to reach the summit of the hill nearby Cemoro Lawang, where you have the top view point… so is better leave the village around 3:30 a.m.
Walk along the road until the last viewpoint where you find some stalls (Mount Pananjakan). The road can be busy with traffic because almost everybody goes up by jeep. Most of the people stop here, on the end of the road, but you can keep walking up along a staircase. After, the path is not clear and the first part is a bit difficult, where I need the help of my hands to climb up, but after the hike get’s easier, always up in a kind of zigzag until you reach the top
On the top of the hill, there’s a viewpoint with a kind of cement fence. Here is an amazing spot to watch the sunrise, Bromo and the nearby hills, as you probably arrive already with some daylight.
After the sunrise, I could see clearly the volcano and the valley but just for a few minutes, because the fog starts to close the view. But when I was almost ready to leave, suddenly the all the fog vanish and the sunrays light the landscape. The view was perfect.
I weather is very unpredictable here and the conditions change quickly. In April the mornings were mostly sunny but around noon the rain starts, sometimes with thunders… other times is just a thick fog.
When you are done with the views of Bromo, is time to come down and walk to the crater. There are two options:
- the shortest one is to go back to Cemoro Lawang and from there cross the plain to reach the volcano.
- The other option is to go down along the road on the other side of the hill, a pavement road that ends in the plain area. Is a long walk, around 7.2 km but always downhill, with some parts very steep.

Anyway, at this road there are several ojeks waiting to help if you feel that is too much walk. There are several viewpoints where you can grab a coffee, instant noodle soup or some food, and have some rest.

Crossing the plain is the easiest part. Here you’ll also find a few basic food stalls.
When you arrive close to the Bromo, you’ll pass by the temple (Pura Luhur Poten Gunung Bromo) nothing special if you already have been in Bali.
From here you need to climb a bit to reach the staircase to the top of the crater. There are horses to help you to reach until the stairs.
You can walk along the crater rim, but a certain point the path gets narrow…. didn’t walk further because I found it danger as there is no protection on the active crater side.
Now is time to go down… walk along the plain but now in the direction to Cemoro Lawang… is a very nice walk and you don’t even need to follow the path of the cars.
The last part is the worst, as you need to climb a steep road back to Cemoro Lawang… it doesn’t have more than 800 m, but look steeper for my tired legs.

So all this takes more than 6.5h, but cost you nothing and you can enjoy the view as long as you want.

ojek (moto-taxi) drivers wait for people along the way that goes from the sunrise viewpoint to the Bromo volcano

About Cemoro Lawang:

Cemoro Lawang (pronounces chemoro) could be just one more rural small village at the end of the road, but due to the proximity to the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park, which entrance starts in the village, become a tourist destination, particularly for visitors that want to visit Bromo independently, without a tour.

And Cemoro Lawang doesn’t have much than a few houses, some homestays, hotel and guesthouses, a few eateries and a couple of groceries shops. Around, away from the tropical climate from the lower lands, all the fields were planted with onions and cabbages!!!

Where to sleep in Cemoro Lawang:

There are many guesthouses and homestays everywhere… also many people renting rooms and houses that don’t even have a sign. Just start to ask, that someone will show you a place. You can bargain the price, but the local people don’t speak much English. The conditions are basic, no hot water and no heating, but you can get a room for 75.000 Rp in one of these homestays.

For a more comfortable stay there are many options in Cemoro Lawang that cost more than 200.000 Rp.

Cemoro Lawang... one of the local houses that are rented to the tourist — Cemoro Lawang… one of the local houses that are rented to the tourist

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Cemoro Lawang homestay with very basic condition

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Where to eat in Cemoro Lawang:

There are many warungs along the main road that leads to the entrance of the Bromo Park. Despite being a touristic area, the prices are quite fair and the food follows the Indonesian standards.

Nearby the place where the buses wait for passengers there’s a restaurant with tasty food… a good option while you wait for the bus to be full.

ATMs and Money exchange in Cemoro Lawang:

There aren’t ATMs in Cemoro Lawang, but on the way from Probolingo the bus will stop at an ATM, and wait for you.

How to go from Probolingo to Cemoro Lawang (Bromo Volcano)

If you arrive at Probolingo by train, you need to catch a bemo to the Bus Terminal Bayu Angga. If you travel by bus probably you’ll end your trip at the terminal and you just need to walk 500 m to reach the bus stop where the buses to Cemoro Lawang are waiting. Watch out: Probolingo is famous for scams!
In front of the Probolingo Train Station, you’ll see a yellow bemo waiting that goes to the Bus Terminal Bayu Angga. You need to wait until it get’s full and the trip costs 10.000 Rp and takes 15 minutes. Along the way, the driver stopped several times trying to push the foreigners out of the bemo, saying that is the place to catch the bus to Cemoro Lawang, but these are the private buses or private cars. The public buses (very old and in bad condition) are waiting a bit south from the Bayu Angga Terminal, in front of some warungs. The driver will spot you as everybody that arrives here go to “Bromo”. The ticket costs 35.000 Rp and you need to wait until the bus is full, that means 15 people. If after a while there are not enough people, the total cost of 525.000 Rp will be divided by the number of passengers
The 37 km until Cemoro Lawang are made along a bumpy road with nice views passing along rural areas. The bus drops you at the end of the road, or before if you ask, as there is not exactly a center of the village.

bemo from the train station to the Bus Terminal Bayu Angga

Place where the bus to Cemoro Lawang wait for passangers... there's nothing written but the bus helper will spot you as you arrive — Place where the bus to Cemoro Lawang wait for passangers… there’s nothing written but the bus helper will spot you as you arrive

Pemuteran… white sand vs black sand beaches

Permuteran, as most of the beaches on the north coast of Bali, has black sand… a soft back sand reminding the volcanic origins of the island, where the mountains that frame the area are a strong evidence. But… there’s a small area where the sand is white! The whiteness of the coral reef located a few kilometers west from Permuteran, before the Taman Bali Barat Park.

This area creates a kind of peninsula with the north coast dominated by the mangroves, where you can get a nice view of the mountains but no protection from the sun. But to reach this white sand you need to cross a wide fishery area, that creates a kind of labyrinthic network of roads, able to mistake anyone.

But hidden in this area, there is a small bay with the perfect conditions to swim, the Banyuwedang Bay… transparent and still water, shade, lots of nature around, in an almost empty white sand… a contrast with the busy and dark beaches nearby Pemuteran village, located only eleven kilometers away!!!

DSC_4933_Pemuteran beach — Pemuteran beach… were the finishing area is slowly taking over by resorts close to the sea line

Pemuteran beach… nearby the fishing village there is some garbage on the beach… and some traces of a religious ceremony

DSC_4936_Pemuteran beach — Pemuteran beach

fisheries on the way to Mangrove beach

DSC_4895_Pemuteran — on the way to the Mangrove beach were many men work on the fisheries

DSC_4876_Pemuteran — fisheries on the way to Mangrove beach

DSC_4866_Pemuteran — fisheries on the way to Mangrove beach

Banyuwedang Bay... white sand and nature... just this almost empty resort breaks the perfection of the place — Banyuwedang Bay… white sand and nature… just this almost empty resort breaks the perfection of the place

Banyuwedang Bay surrounded by nature this strip of white sand is perfect compared with the beaches around Pemuteran, that is not more than 11 kilometers distante

Where to sleep in Pemuteran:

Many options for many budgets but don’t expect to find anything less that 100.000 Rp. According to information from a guesthouse owner, the dorms are not allowed anymore in Pemuteran, as result of the pressure of some owners

If you are looking for a budget option you need to search on the land side of the road, as the coat line accommodation are all above 200.000 Rp. There are a few accommodations before the “gate” that marks the beginning of Pemuteran, but if are not planning to rent a scooter, maybe this area is a bit far from restaurants.

I found in a nice place in one of the small alleys that you find on the left side of the road Singaraja-Gilimanuk

Bhakti Guest House. A quiet and very clean place, only with two rooms… so if you are looking for social life this is not your place! The family is not very talkative but is nice and available to help. The breakfast is the usual banana pancake but is served in a very generous portion with fruit and coffee. A room cost 150.000 Rp but could get it for 000 Rp, with the fact that if I had booked by a reservation website he would receive less money as these companies charge a commission of 15%.

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Where to eat in Pemuteran:

Along the road, there are many restaurants, from the more fancy ones to the local warungs, where you can find a nasi campur from 10.000 Rp to 20.000 Rp.

One small stall stands up, that at the first look doesn’t have anything to offer but where I found a delicious gado-gado, made by a super friendly couple, that costs 7.000 Rp!!! … difficult to explain the place as there is no name, but is located on the opposite side of the road of the T junction that goes to Doubleyou Homestay.

gado-gado.. a classic from the Indonesia gastronomy, basically a salad with compressed rice, vegetables and peanut sauce

How to move around in Pemuteran:

On foot ,you can reach restaurants and groceries shops but cannot go much further that the main beach nearby the Pondok Sari Resort, but is very busy and not that clean…. everywhere else you need a scooter. A scooter costs 60.000 Rp to 70.000 Rp a day. I rent mine at Bhakti Guest House.

There are also many buses running along the main road, as also a few bemos.

to reach the Banyuwedang Bay just follow the signs to the resort White Sandy Beach Menjangan

Best beaches in Pemuteran:

At Banyuwedang Bay, you find an almost empty beach with white sand, surrounded by vegetation and with nice views of the hills. The water is very quiet and transparent and with shade from the trees. The reference point to reach Banyuwedang Bay beach is the “White Sandy Beach Menjangan”. The last part of the road is very bumpy but doable by scooter.
Mangrove beach: close by Banyuwedang Bay, this beach is peaty tricky to find, because you need to cross a big area of fisheries that create a kind of labyrinth. The place is empty but no shade.
If you don’t have your own transport, you can find a clean area to swim in front of Matahari resort.

ATMs and Money exchange in Pemuteran:

There’s a moneychanger at the Taruna Homestay. No commission and a better rate than the banks…. but not so good as in other places in Bali.

There are several ATMs along the road that cross Pemuteran.

How to go from Singaraja to Pemuteran:

At Singaraja, you need to go to the Banyuasri Terminal. From there departure regular services on the way to Gilimanuk that stop in Pemuteran.
The trip takes 2 hours and costs 50.000 Rp.
Doesn’t exist a “center” in Pemuteran or a bus terminal, so just ask the driver to drop you nearby your accommodation… the cheapest accommodation are located at the entrance of Pemuteran, nearby the gate, and on the left side of the road.

How to go from Bali to Java by public ferry:

How to go from Pemuteran to Gilimanuk:

Just walk from your guesthouse, hotel or homestay to the main road that crosses Pemuteran, and wait for the bus, a dark red van.

The trip takes 35 minutes and costs 30.000 Rp.

The bus will drop you at 300 meters from the ferry terminal.

The way to Gilimanuk is very beautiful, as you leave Pemuteran and reach a more natural area where the West Bali Natural Park is located.

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See also: Bogor Botanical garden

Where to sleep in Bogor:

Where to eat in Bogor:

How to move around in Bogor:

How to go from Jakarta (Kampung Rambutan) to Bogor:

How to go from Bogor to Jakarta Airport:

What to do in Batu Karas:

Where to sleep in Batu Karas:

Where to eat in Batu Karas:

How to move around in Batu Karas:

ATMs and Money exchange in Batu Karas:

How to go from Yogyakarta to Batu Karas:

Wi-fi in Batu Karas:

How to go from Batu Karas to Jakarta:

… a few places to chill

Local Markets

Batik

… because food matters

…a bit of a bite on the Yogyakarta street food

Yogyakarta street Art

Enjoy Yogyakarta!

So from my experience, the conclusion is: or you spend the 20 dollars and join the crown to visit the Borobudur temple… or if not it doesn’t worth much to move there just to see the sunrise and the silhouette of the temple at a far distance.

Where to sleep in Borobudur:

How to visit Borobudur:

How to go from Yogyakarta do Borobudur:

Where to sleep in Yogyakarta:

Where to eat in Yogyakarta:

Check more details at: A shot guide to hang ou in Yogyakarta

How to move around in Yogyakarta:

Arriving in Yogyakarta by train:

How to go from Cemoro Lawang (Probolingo) to Malang:

Where to sleep in:

Where to eat in:

Laundry:

How to move around in:

How to go from Malang to Yogyakarta:

see also:

Arriving at Bromo, listening to the sound that comes from the center of the crater, a mix of boiling water with the sound from an earthquake… the breading of the earth. Such a power… such a memorable experience.

Visit Bromo Volcano… DIY:

About Cemoro Lawang:

Where to sleep in Cemoro Lawang:

Where to eat in Cemoro Lawang:

ATMs and Money exchange in Cemoro Lawang:

How to go from Probolingo to Cemoro Lawang (Bromo Volcano)

Where to sleep in Pemuteran:

Where to eat in Pemuteran:

How to move around in Pemuteran:

Best beaches in Pemuteran:

ATMs and Money exchange in Pemuteran:

How to go from Singaraja to Pemuteran:

How to go from Pemuteran to Gilimanuk:

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