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Dambulla and the Buddhas

The city of Dambulla is strategically located halfway between Trincomalee and Colombo, as well as between Anuradhapura and Kandy, getting little kilometers of Sigiriya. Dambulla beyond its attractions is waypoint required for those visiting the cultural triangle called passing by Kandy-Anuradhapura-Polonnaruwa.

But Dambulla appears on the tourist map by the Buddhist temples that nest in caves and for that simply called Dambulla Cave Temples, which are located on top of a granite massif rock that pop up from the flat landscape where the green tropical vegetation is torn by other rock elevations, among which is Sigiriya, sacred place for Buddhists and unavoidable steeped in history and Sinhalese culture.

Perhaps the simplicity, by age or by the atmosphere of being on a rock, a visit to these temples was strongly marked, where neither the lively conversations of the visitors or by the loud explanations of the guides, were enough to break the magic of the place.

The caves, five in total, are aligned along a horizontal fault in the rock mass, which was partially covered with a construction that “closes” the caves and creates a gallery along the rock. These temples dating from the first century B.C. and was subsequently the subject of restoration and renovations in the seventeenth and eighteenth century, during Kandyan Kingdom (or Kandy) which lasted until 1815, when the British troops arrived.

The interior of the caves is profusely decorated with paintings, where between religious motives are geometric patterns, mandalas and floral designs, and constitute a vast and valuable example of the Sri Lankan Buddhist Art. But what stands out at first glance are the dozens of Buddha statues in different styles and sizes, carved in wood or stone, representing Buddha in the usual sitting pose with different mudras (position of hand with different symbolic and spiritual meanings), but also reclined, representing the last moments before leaving the physical body and attain nirvana.

Many Sri Lankans come here to worship these stunning images that look in the serene face, depositing lotus flowers and praying. The atmosphere is dark and invites reflection and introspection, spiritual practices shared by all religious and belief, left a strong mark of this visit which extended for a long time, giving an opportunity to observe the comings and goings of pilgrims.

Dambulla Cave Temples fee:

In January 2016 admission to visit the Dambulla Cave Temples was free.

A recent decision by the Sri Lankan government eliminated (perhaps temporarily or definitively) the entry fee, which previously was $10 (about 1500 LKR).

Dambulla Temple Caves. Entrance near Kandy road

Where to stay in Dambulla:

Gold Rock Guest House

Address: 45, Kandy Road, Dambulla

Contact: 066 2248 114, 71 118 8958

Email: guestgoldrock@gmail.com

Room for one person with bathroom: 1000 LKR

no Wi-Fi

Dambulla… the city and the markets

Where to eat in Dambulla:

Dambulla… the city and the markets

Transports from Dambulla:

Dambulla… the city and the markets

Uppuveli Beach, Trincomalee, and the rain

The first sound that comes in the morning from the sleeping Uppuveli streets is the “Für Elise”, a popular Beethoven composition, which played in a simplified version announces the passing of the bread seller, which slowly drives his motorized tricycle shop, spreading a lovely contrast between the sophisticated melody and the simplicity of the place… a beach on the east coast of Sri Lanka, fringed by green palm trees and tropical vegetation.

Uppuveli is only a small village, arranged in a grid of streets between the main road and the sand beach, located 4 kilometers north of the city of Trincomalee, the largest population center on the east coast of the island. Given the coast configuration that forms a bay, protected from the strong Indian Ocean currents, by a small cape, the curling is not so strong, allowing a relaxed swim, with memorable water temperature, which keeps warm despite the wintry gray sky.

The singing of the roosters, cows grazing by the roadside, the stillness of the place make us forget that Uppuveli is one of the most popular beaches on the east coast. But in January, during the rainy season, it looks almost abandoned except by the fishermen, who still routinely repairing their nets, while crows fill the air with the characteristic harsh and persistent sound.

Uppuveli Beach. Trincomalee, where the currents bring a significant amount of garbage that spread along the sea line

During the rainy season, the sky easily fills up with clouds, that don’t necessarily bring rain, but turn the blue sea in dark tones, with the waves spreading white foam on the sand, that without the sun, shows dark and sad. A walk by the sea brings the remembrance of the winter walks along the beach along the Portuguese coast; but here the warm breeze that comes from the sea and the hot water that wets our feet, contrast and creates a shock with this cold memory.

With the end of the day, the sun hides behind the tropical forest, growing the shadows of coconut trees that gradually conquer the sand, leaving us in the shade, while the sea still reflects the last rays of the sun.

Trincomalee, like Batticaloa, located on a peninsula, announced the possibility of pleasant walks through the city, but the persistent rain, that lasted more than a day, set aside this plan, anticipating the departure of Trincomalee, which stayed behind wrapped in a gray blanket.

... leaving Trincomalee — … leaving Trincomalee

Where to stay in Uppuveli:

Being one of the most popular beaches on the east coast along with Arugam Bay, in Uppaveli there is a great offer in accommodation, but at this time of year, in January, during the rainy season, they are mostly closed. The exceptions are the most sophisticated resorts, some hotels, as well the guest houses and many family houses that rent rooms. The price of a room in this homestays and guest house is around 1000 LKR, in low season.

As the bus leaves passengers at the main entrance of Uppuveli, the most natural is to go walking through the village streets to reach the beach. Entering the Beach Road, which despite being the main access to the beach, became a zig-zag through houses, where the construction of resorts blocked direct access to the sand.

Arriving at the beach, you can walk to the left, and find a sequence of accommodation, more sophisticated and where are located the resorts. Between the beach and the main road, along with village houses, there are some hotels and apartments, which have more attractive prices, than the ones on the shore.

This was the case of the Sunrise Hotel with excellent rooms in a quiet area about 5 minutes away from the beach. As it was empty was possible to negotiate the price for 1000 LKR per night. The staff is not very friendly and the place hasn’t an “atmosphere” but the rooms are very good compared to many other places checked, that for the same price offer poor conditions.

Sunrise Hotel

Address: No. 49, Alles Garden, Trincomalee, Sri Lanka

Free wi-fi, but that don’t reach all rooms.

But arriving at the beach, and walking to the right, toward the fishing boats, is other type of accommodation: modest but with more atmosphere. For those getting out of the bus on the national road, you need to walk a bit back towards Trincomalee until you come to a Christian Church (Holy Cross Convent), a massive building with modern architecture. On the opposite side of the main road is another beach access, which is easier to get to the “French Garden“, “Regist Guest House” and “Anton Guest House” among others accommodations existing in the same area.

Where to eat in Uppuveli:

Some hotels have a restaurant and along the small Uppuveli streets are a few local food restaurant, which however have inflated prices.

The cheapest solution is to go to the main road (Trincomalee to Nilaveli) and walk a bit to the north, not more than 200 meters, until you reach a junction, gathering some shops, a fruit shop, a grocery, a cafe, a tailor and a restaurant serving roti and kotu. If you order in advance, it serves rice and curry, but in a modest and pale version, for 150 LKR.

However, the kotu is quite good as are the rotis, but the highlighted goes to the coconut hoopers that are made fresh in the morning and quickly disappear. The place has no name, but it is the only place serving food along in this area of the road.

Roti and Kotu restaurant at Nilaveli Road

Coconut Hoppers. restaurant at Nilaveli Road

How to go from Trincomalee to Uppuveli:

Buses to Uppuveli run from the left side of the terminal. However, some of the buses towards Nilaveli not always stop at Uppuveli. There are no indications about schedule and bus destinations, whereby is necessary to ask the bus drivers or anyone from the staff.

Bus Ticket: 20 LKR.

The trip takes less than 15 minutes

At 13.30h leaves from the right side of the terminal, in the same area where the private buses to Colombo and Kandy wait, a private bus that stops near Uppuveli.

Trincomalee, in front of the bus Terminal... some restaurants and roti shops — Trincomalee, in front of the bus Terminal… some restaurants and roti shops

How to go from Uppuveli to Trincomalee:

For those on Uppuveli, opposite the junction where lies the roti restaurant there is a bus stand, every hour… 8 a.m, 9 am, etc…, a bus to Trincomalee; note that not all buses stop at this place.

How to go from Trincomalee to Dambulla or Colombo by bus:

At Trincomalee Bus Terminal, conveniently located near the center of the city, departing regularly bus bound for Colombo that stops at Dambulla.

There are also buses from the governmental company, SLTB (red color buses) bound to Colombo and that take almost 3 hours to get to Dambulla.

Bus Ticket Trincomalee – Dandulla: 132 LKR (3 hours)

From Trincomalee Bus Terminal, departures along all the day, many buses from the main Sri Lanka cities: Jaffna, Kandy, Habarana, Batticzloa, Anuradhapura, etc…

Bus Trincomalee to Colombo_Schedule_DSC_7808 — Schedule. Private bus from Trincomalee to Colombo, that stops at Dambulla

Batticaloa and the Burghers

About Batticaloa, one can say that is off the tourist route, partly because it was quite battered by civil war that last for 25 years and only ended in 2009, by the few attractive in terms of historical and religious heritage and above all by the remote location, in the middle the eastern coast of Sri Lanka, totally out of the “cultural triangle” that includes Kandy, Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura.

And indeed, it appears that this is so, as during an all day couldn’t found other foreign, as also by the short offer of lodging in the city center and most of all the eager eyes of the local people, that shows very curious and at the same time very shy.

But Batticaloa proved to have a certain touch, with a prime location on the edge of a peninsula with the sea on one side and the lagoon on the other, making it seem almost an island, because when you walk through the city quickly faced with water.

Bridge that link Puliyanthivu to the modern town. Batticaloa

And the old town of Batticaloa, Puliyanthivu, it is indeed an island, where lies the old fort solidly built by the Dutch, and many houses, villas, schools, hospitals and Christian churches, where dominates the European colonial architecture style, with most of the buildings surrounded by high stone walls, where the metal gates let us view inside.

Along the quiet and almost empty streets of Puliyanthivu, which is easily reached by a small bridge that connects the island to the modern part of Batticaloa, women walk slowly absorbed in their conversation, men cycle smoothly in old fashion bikes, and children leaving school, whose immaculate white uniforms seems to take us back to the times of the British presence.

Comercial area of Puliyanthivu. Batticaloa

On the other hand, the “new” part of the city has little interest with the exception of the view to the lagoon and for the local market, simply referred Batticaloa Market, where inside they sell food and around align varied kind of commerce stores.

But Batticaloa along with the city of Trincomalee are areas where it has the largest number of Burghers, a name that identifies the descendants of Portuguese and Dutch who by family ties have been mix with the Sinhalese population since the 16 century, creating an ethnic group with their own language, Creole and professing the Christian religion, which still remain despite the passage of the English, that left here the Protestant religion.

From the Portuguese presence remain the names, Silva, Perera or Pereira, Fonseca… that show up as names of business, street names, inscribed on signs that identify doctors offices or law firms… showing that this small population of Burgher holds a high status in Sri Lankan society.

Batticaloa is the “Lourenço de Almeida Social & Cultural Centre”, a cultural association belonging to the “Sri Lankan Portuguese Burgher Foundation”, that support social activities in the East region of Sri Lanka. The short stay in Batticaloa, which wasn’t more that rest stop on the itinerary from Arugam Bay to Trincomalee, didn’t give the opportunity to discover the Burgher culture, but a walk through the streets came an encounter with two girls, one of them with green eyes and fair skin that after complimented by her beautiful eyes, proudly replied, “I am a Burgher.”

The presence of the Burghers, representing about 0.3% of the population of Sri Lanka, is discreet to those traveling in the city, but here there is a clear influence of Tamil culture, dominant in the north of the island, already visible in Batticaloa by the number of Hindu temples, the facial features and the dark skin typical of Tamil ethnic group, in many of the inhabitants… and even the rice and curry here get another taste, that takes us to India.

From Pottuvil to Batticaloa:

The road linking Pontuvil to Batticaloa develops always along the coast. However this proximity little one can see of the sea, but as a compensation, the landscape that can be seen from the road is dominated by water… whether in lakes, swamps and lagoons covered in water lilies and splashed by the whiteness of herons, either by extensive fields of rice, that in some areas show the light green of young shoots but elsewhere dyeing golden tones of mature grains.

It is a truly beautiful route, and where the scarcity of settlements makes the fluid and enjoyable, with the month of January to mark the rainy season, leaving a green trail in the memory.

Where to stay in Batticaloa:

There are not many attractive options of lodging in the city, since hotels and resorts are near the beach in Kallady, another part of the city on the other side of the peninsula which requires taking a tuk-tuk.

But as Batticaloa was only a stop in the middle of the route to Trincomalee, which resulted in only one night here, the search for a room was not very demanding. Thus arose the Hotel Sun Rice (yes… rice!! sun rise, predictably). A simple one story building with several rooms, located behind a restaurant with the same name. Near the train station and at a distance of about 800 meters from the bus terminal. Clean and well maintained, but painted in strong colour that can change the mood to more sensitive minds!!!!

Hotel Sun Rice

Addresss: Bar Street, Batticaloa

Bedroom with en-suite: 1000 LKR

But after some sightseeing were found other options:

LMD Guest House. Address: No. 15, Lady Manning Drive
The Moon Hotels, guest house conveniently located near the bus terminal building (CTB Bus Station). Address: 3rd Covington’s Road, West Puliyanthivu

Subaraj Inn advertised in various touristic guides is closed, permanently closed.

For those who prefer to stay away from urban areas, Kalkudah Bay, 30 kilometers north of Batticalola, is an attractive destination for those looking for beach and escaping to the “tour guides” suggestions. To sleep, Moni Guest House was a trusted suggestion that unfortunately there was no opportunity to experience.

Where to eat in Batticaloa:

Batiicaloa didn’t shine in terms of food, with usual rice and curry at lunchtime, and the rotis and kutus for dinner.

Opposite the bus terminal (Private bus terminal) are some restaurants serving rice and curry but dull.

In front of the CTB Bus Station, next to the Cargills, is a cafe/restaurant with good snacks.

How to go from Batticaloa to Trincomalee bus:

To make it difficult, Batticaloa has 3 bus terminals. To facilitate the three terminals are located side by side at East Puliyanthivu, along 300 meters.

For those who walk from the “clock tower” (a cliché in any Sri Lankan city), first you’ll find the Minibus Stand, which is no more than a plot by the road where the buses park. Ahead lies the gigantic building CTB Bus Station, for buses of state-owned, identifiable by the red color. Between is the Private Bus Terminal, that is also a plot by the road but with a small building, which consists of a set of information (not very useful) and a waiting room.

There’s no information about schedules and destinations, so the best option to ask the drivers who roam in the terminal… they are always the best source of information as well as restaurants or kiosks located in the area.

For those who follow northwards towards Trincomalee, there’s a bus passing by Private Bus Terminal around 8:45 a.m., and goes direct to Trincomalee, with no need of stopovers.

Bus Batticaloa to Trincomalee: 180 LKR (8:45 hours)

Batticaloa_CTB Bus Station_DSC_7781 — CTB Bus Station. Batticaloa

Population: 90,000

Elevation: 17 meters

Arugam Bay… at the beach in low season

Arugam Bay being one of the best places for surfing in Sri Lanka has two appearances: the peak season, from May to August… and the rest of the year, were Arugam Bay is not much more that a fishing village!

Between November and April can be considered the best time to visit Sri Lanka, with the months of December and January to reach the peak of tourist. But the east coast and the northern part of the island, that are the least visited areas, difficult to reach and that for many years place of war, have a different climate, with rainfall during this period. The months from May to October are those with a more favorable climate in the north and on the east coast, where lies the beach of Arugam Bay.

But for those who do not chase the “waves” visit Arugam Bay or any other place, during the low season provides some advantages: more peace, more space, more affordable rooms, less crowded transport… on the other hand many restaurants and guest houses are closed, less social life and sometimes rain that may show persistent and annoying. Although the temperature is never chill, and the sea never cold.

As the southwest coast rather dry and arid, the visit during the rainy season, which still does not bring rain every day, provides a landscape full of green and enough water to make Arugam Laguna attractive to many birds that gathering here looking for food.

the stay at Arugam Bay provided calm and long walks along the almost desert beach, accompanied by the heavy rhythm of the waves, feeling the moist air that comes from the sea and the warm water temperature that plays around our feets. Walkings that can be extended to the lagoon, located north of the bay, which separates Arugam Bay Beach from Pottuvil.

With light filtered through the soft layer of clouds, the sea shows up with heavy dark colors as well as the sand, which tones along with the abundant garbage brought by the tides is far from forming a paradise image of this place. Nevertheless, this picture changes in the months where dozens of surfers compete for waves that form at the entrance of the bay.

Arugam Bay lives from the surf and surf related business, like surf schools, rentals, rooms, etc… As off-season there’s no activity in terms of surf, with a rough and disorganized sea, at an upper level than usual making the beach narrow, the local population is targeted for fishing, which remains the main occupation and source of income this small town that was seriously affected by the 2004 tsunami, which severely hit the south and east coast of Sri Lanka.

Arugam Bay is not only a place where you go… you have to get there… it’s on the opposite coast of Columbus and the only international airport, between are the mountains and to escape the mountains you must go around to the south or to the north, passing extensive tropical plains… whatever option are trips that do not are not made in one day, forcing always to one or a more stops along the way.

Going to school. Arugam Bay. Road Pottuvil-Panama

Where to stay in Arugam Bay:

In low season, most places are closed or whether they were open probably are deserted. Along the main road, on both sides, line up successive accommodation of different styles and for different budgets.

The Beach Hut is one of the oldest places and, therefore, very popular even in low season attracting most of the foreigners, some passing by but others that remain here for long periods, enjoying the tranquility of the place and the proximity of the sea, which is around twenty meters far. There are several types of accommodation, rooms and huts with different levels of amenities and comfort. The Beach Hut has a restaurant provides a nice common area surrounded by forest.

double bedroom with en-suite: 1000 LKR (low-season)

Free wi-fi

Where to eat in Arugam Bay:

Many of the guesthouses have a restaurant, but during the low season many are closed. Those who are open, such as the Beach Hut, offer the usual menu with many international options.

On the main road that crosses Arugam Bay (road Pottuvil-Panama) there are some local food restaurants, serving only tea, rotis and fried-rice, but most of them just open during the high season.

But proved to be indifferent to variations of tourists and surfers, because essentially live from the local population, there’s a restaurant in the south of Arugam Bay, along the national road, very close to the curve that in some way marks the border of the village. Working also as a kind of small grocery, sells delicious King coconuts, serves rotis, kotus and a variety of snacks, including some Sri Lanka traditional sweets, popular as breakfast, like coconut rotis and coconut hoopers, that runs out quickly in the morning. At lunch the usual rice and curry, for which foreigners are overcharged with 250 LKR; yet delicious, rich and entitled to refill.

Bus from Arugam Bay to Batticaloa:

In the morning there is only one direct bus from Arugam Bay to Batticaloa, passing on the main road by 5 am or 5.30 am, and reaches Batticaloa around 10:30 am.

Alternative is a tuk-tuk to Pottuvil (100 LKR) and at the bus terminal catch one of the many buses bound for Batticaloa, but most of them aren’t direct buses; although at 10 am there’s one that avoids stopover.

The Pottuvil Bus Terminal, which is no more than a set of buses parked perpendicular to the road, with tuk-tuks waiting on the other side, there are buses with high frequency to Kalmunai, from where you can find another to Batticaloa.

Bus Pottuvil – Kalmunai: 93 LKR (2.15h)

Bus Kalmunai – Batticaloa: 59 LKR (1.5h)

Bus Pottuvil to Kalmunai, on the way to Batticaloa @ Pottuvil Bus Terminal

The trip between Pottuvil and Kalmunai is particularly beautiful with the road crossing vast plains of rice fields and many natural vegetation zones with a scarce human presence, and form the Lahugala National Park.

Ecowave Sri Lanka

Is a organisation based in Arugam Bay, focuses in developing projects to support local community in a sustainable way.

There are many things going on in Ecowave, that suites a travellers, like stay with a local family, and cooking classes, in a way to show the local cuisine and also local products that come from their own organic farm. There are also more tourist activities, in a more responsible and sustainable way.

Check their page so se what’s going on or just pass bay their shop in Arugam Bay Road (not far from the entrance to “Beach Huts” where you can find organic products as food and cosmetics as also handicrafts made local community.

https://www.facebook.com/ecowavelk/

https://www.facebook.com/EcowaveTravels/

About Elephants and buses… from Kataragama to Arugam Bay

Having already visited the south coast, is time to look for other places, but the topography of the island, with a mountain range to occupy the entire center of the southern part of the territory, make it an unattractive option with slow journeys, pushing you to longer but more easy and accessible itineraries.

Other obstacles are the natural parks, which make the roads go around large areas, with Sri Lanka to stand out for a total of 26 wildlife reserves in an area 1.4 times larger than Portugal.

And an image that stays in the memory after traveling through Sri Lanka is green. The green of palm trees and tropical forest. The green plains of rice fields. The green forests in the mountains. The green of the water lilies and lotus flowers covering lakes and wetlands.

And out of the most densely populated areas such as the southwest coast, south of Colombo and the triangle covering Colombo-Kandy-Galle, scarce villages and dozens of kilometers can be made trough a landscape that still maintains natural.

The Kataragama travel toward the East Coast is far from being linear, taking a longer route to avoid the Yala National Park. First to the north towards the anonymous Buttala, then northeast to the unknown Monaragala, and then heading east to Pottuvil. But the final destination of this route is the beach of Arugam Bay, about 4 km south of Pottuvil.

While about the stops in Buttala and Monoragala to change buses there’s no trace of memory, as well as the road that links this two places, with houses, shops, restaurants, workshops and other buildings line up along the road.

But between Kataragama and Buttala is one of the nicest bus trips made in Sri Lanka, that in a month were more than 20… not counting with the usually necessary bus change during the same trip. This route passes near the Yala National Park, a vast area that ranks as the second largest natural park in the country, whose significant population of elephants and leopards attracts lots of visitors.

But leaving the animals peacefully live their life away from human hanging in jeeps that roam the streets of the park, visits to national parks were off the itinerary.

But as a compensation, the bus ride between Kataragama and Buttala offered an unexpected whole show, with the passage of an elephant that circulated by the roadside, that without showing any kind of fear or surprise, stopped as if to observe the giant vehicle that was crossing his path. But spotting wildlife along this road is not unusual, forcing the vehicle running at low speed and avoid beeps, which makes this a truly relaxing trip, offering the possibility to quietly enjoy the natural landscape. From wetlands, the road goes gradually getting drier as one moves north, with the reddish soil where vegetation comes down to trees and small leaf bushes, through which it was possible to see yet another Sri Lanka elephant, a subspecies of the Asian elephant.

Bus Kataragama to Buttala. bus trip Katamarama-Arugam Bay

Leaving behind Monaragala and as it moves to the east toward Pottuvil road extends almost in a straight line along wooded plains that offer a bit of freshness to the tropical temperatures of the region, refreshing the body and softening the intense sunlight. The last kilometers before Pottuvil landscape let behind the trees transforming into endless plains of rice fields. We are again close to another national park, not as popular as the Yala but whose lagoon features attract many species of birds: the Lahugala National Park.

The warm breeze coming in through the windows, while the bus glides smoothly through the endless road and the serenity of the landscape that fills the eyes, provide a deep sense of calm and tranquility, that along with the unexpected “encounter” with an elephant, made this trip a strong memory of positive feelings.

Monaragama to Pontuvil. bus trip Katamarama-Arugam Bay

How to go from Kataragama to Arugam Bay bus:

The route has a total of 137 kilometers but it took six hours to do it.

As the only direct bus that leaves Kataragama to Pottuvil is at 6 am, the alternative was to go first to Buttala. In Buttala just ask for a bus in the direction of Pottuvil, and as there is no direct connection is necessary to stop in Monaragala and change there to another bus to the final destination, Pottuvil.

Some buses end in Pottuvil, the largest village in the area, but others continues up to Panama stopping at Arugam Bay. If the bus ends in Pottuvil the only option is to take a tuk-tuk to make the last 4 kilometers that separate the bus terminal the first guesthouses of Arugam Bay. If you want to go to the “center” of Arugam Bay you need to walk another kilometer, but in any case, the tuk-tuk shouldn’t cost more than 100 LKR.

Bus from Kataragama to Buttala: 46 km (9.35h – 11h)

Ticket: 85 LKR

Bus from Buttala to Monaragala: 20 km (11.05h – 11.55h)

Ticket: 40 LKR

Bus from Monaragala to Arugam Bay: 71 km (12:30 – 15:30)

Ticket: 120 LKR

Monaragama Bus terminal. bus trip Katamarama-Arugam Bay

But all bus changes required during a journey are not as bothersome as they seem at first glance, as all the buses stop at the terminals, where it is not difficult to find the next bus; yet is necessary ask for help to the local population or bus drivers waiting in the terminal, as many times there are no proper information or signs.

These breaks in the terminals, given the high frequency of buses, never take longer than 30 minutes, the most usual is to find a bus that is about to depart, being only necessary to “jump” inside. Alway take your backpack with you, inside de bus, no matter what the drive helper can say as the trunks are dirty and full of dust or mud, on rainy days.

Tickets are always sold inside the vehicle, whatever the route or the bus company.

The bus terminals are away of being an attractive area, but if you have to wait for a few minutes this places always provide the chance to of finding a meal, fruit, roti or another kind of snack to eat during the trip… even rice and curry properly wrapped for take-away, which only has the drawback of not being provided cutlery as in Sri Lanka food is eaten by hand, and only the restaurants offer spoons.

The buses are neither good nor bad… they’re basically all the same, all made in the same factory Lanka Ashok Leyland, following all the same model… the only difference is that there are older ones and newer ones, that means in better conditions, but even the older buses never appear properly degraded, and are only used in urban areas and for short distances.

The red buses belonging to the state-owned company (SLTB); blue and white buses are from private companies, more focused on profit, which leads to the bus stop every time someone on the roadside or at any point of the city makes a signal to stop, and every time someone want to get off at a particular site. Buses from SLTB are more respectful of bus stands but are less often.

Despite the discomfort caused by too full buses, by numerous stops, by constant honking, by dangerous overtaking and the unbridled driving of some drivers, the bus is no doubt the best way to travel by Sri Lanka, which in addition to cover the whole territory they provide a stimulating contact with the population and multiple smiles…. and a lot of Sinhalese music !!!!!

How to get out of Arugam Bay:

In the morning, only one bus pass by Arugam Bay destination North towards Batticaloa, with the inconvenient time of 5 or 5.30am, being difficult to get accurate information.

The Arugam bay bus stand is in front of the school, in the northern part of the beach, not far from the bridge that crosses the lagoon that separates Arugam Bay from Potuvil.

The alternative is to take a tuk-tuk to Pottuvil (100 LKR) and from the bus terminal catch one of the many buses to north, in direction of Batticaloa.

Pottuvil bus terminal_DSC_7695 — Pottuvil Bus Terminal

Kataragama and the “puja”

Kataragama with Sri Pada are both important places of pilgrimage for Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims. However, Kataragama seems to be more popular among the Hindu population, largely made up of Tamil ethnic group.

The Ella trip to Kataragama took almost three hours, with the road winding along the valley, with dangerous descents, becoming flatter as you walk south toward Tissamaharama. Soon the landscape changed from forest to extensive rice fields, that at this time of year (January) are of an intense green. The heat of the afternoon made the short bus ride seem longer, with the tropical humidity mix with the sweat, letting the skin moist and sticky.

But at about five in the afternoon, after resting the bus ride, is the ideal time for a quiet walk through the streets toward the Temple Park, a wide forested area where the several temples concentrate: a Hindu temple, a Buddhist stupa and a Muslim mosque. Along the way, increase the number of shops selling religious articles and offerings for the puja, indicating that we are near the entrance.

After passing a small river, where some pilgrims bathe following religious rites, we walked through an avenue where cows wander slowly between pilgrims carrying trays of fruit decorated with plastic ornaments, creating a colorful scene toward the temple. Behind stays the almost deserted mosque in a mostly Hindu area.

Hindu Puja offerings. Kataragama. — Hindu Puja offerings. Kataragama

Kataragama_DSC_7474 — Temple Park. Kataragama

Passing the entrance gate, where the shoes must stay outside guarded a zealous staff, is a walled enclosure with temples and other buildings and at the center has the Maha Devale, a small Hindu temple unable to accommodate the hundreds of people here heads for 6 hours, at which time begins puja.

Around other temples also attract devotees who also carry offerings and performing prayers. But it is around the bodhi tree, the same species of the tree where Buddha attained enlightenment and considered sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists, which families gather praying, meditating or reading sacred texts while children run and play losing laughter and shouts that break the solemn atmosphere of the place.

But while the puja doesn’t start is the time to walk down a long avenue until the end of the park toward Kirivehra, a Buddhist temple-shaped stupa, white immaculate painted. Along the way small kiosks selling lotus flowers, ghee (clarified butter, ie cleared of traces of water or impurities) and incense that pilgrims use as offerings, with ghee to serve to keep lit lamps that as the sun goes down on the horizon offer a higher brightness, in contrast with the sky that is becoming dark.

Kirivehara Stupa. Temple Park. Kataragama

But back Maha Devale which has already started the puja, a small crowd of pilgrims, visitors and tourists, if gathering at the three temple entrances, trying to observe the puja ritual that takes place inside where only one dozen of people has space to stand. Suddenly, after a prolonged silence that allows you to enjoy the calm and serenity of the place, already shrouded in darkness, begin the bells start to ring inside the temple, which along a big and heavy bell that is outside, forming a compact mass of sound, hysterical and aggressive, breaking the stillness of place, but whose devotees seem to be indifferent.

Kataragama_Maha Devale_DSC_7415 — Maha Devale. Kataragama

The stay in Kataragama offered a different view of Sri Lanka, away from the tour groups, the boutique hotels, the world heritage tag, the inflated prices, the international food… here beyond the usual friendliness and smiling faces, we are received with warm and sincere smiles that blend some curiosity, a humble and relaxed atmosphere that makes us feel genuinely welcome.

According to the guidebooks, it is better to stay in Tissamaharama and visit Kataragama on a day-trip, and this is the option followed by almost everyone, as in the evening after the puja there were more foreigners in town. But it is worth staying, at least, one night in Kataragama, enjoying the quietness of the streets at dawn, where the few people move without hurry, but with time and availability for a short chat and a friendly smile. The streets are quiet, away from the usual mess of traffic or beeps, and even the national road that crosses Kataragama, the Tissa Road, is away from the usual movement and bustle of others.

Spending the night at Kataragama, gave an opportunity to walk around the city streets and the park next to the temples, lighted by the soft light of dawn, when the air is still fresh and you can see the awaking of town… a place that looks sleepy until puja time, where it get busy.

Where to stay in Kataragama:

Right next to Kataragama bus terminal, it is not even necessary to cross the Tissa Road, is the Lake House Pilgrim Rest. Despite the tablet have an indication Lake House Resort, the place has nothing fancy, offering reasonably priced and cheaper than other places marked on tourist guides as budget options. According to the receipt, this property belongs to “The Associated Newspapers of Ceylan, Ltd.”, is designed for pilgrims but is open to all visitors.

double room with bathroom: 900 LKR (no hot water, but the temperatures in this region, even in January are very warm).

No wi-fi

An annex building, more modern, are the most sophisticated rooms with air conditioning, wi-fi and other amenities.

The location is great and quiet, with some rooms with a balcony overlooking a sea of green formed by rice fields.

The staff speaks little English.

Address: Pussadewa Mawatha (right next to the Kataragama bus terminal)

Lake House Pilgrim Rest (Lake House Resort). Kataragama

Room view from Lake House Pilgrim Rest (Lake House Resort). Kataragama

Where to eat in Kataragama:

It is not difficult to find local food restaurants, but who is looking for international food does not have many chances in Kataragama, with maybe the exception of some fancy hotels.

By indication of local people, the lunch was at Ruhunu Bakery and Hotel that despite the hotel name only serves food. Serves a competent rice and curry, whose vegetarian option costs 80 LKR, and is available from the beginning of the day. In addition, some are also many pastry snacks. It is not easy to communicate in English with the menu and the prices posted on the walls in Sinhalese.

Address: Abhaya Mawatha, Kataragama, Hatton, Kandy

Along the central streets of the small and concentrated Kataragama, there are more restaurants also serving rice and curry, rotis, kotus, hoppers, etc… with the choices changing according to the time of day. They are also groceries selling delicious coconuts, whose existing variety in Sri Lanka called King Coconut, with yellow skin, very juicy and flavorful, and sweeter than the usual green coconut shell.

As dinner is hard to find rice and curry, Kataragama offered the chance to try the hoppers (also known in other countries by apam) are a kind of pancakes made from rice flour and coconut milk. In Sri Lanka the hoppers can be eaten at breakfast or in the evening as a meal, with or without egg, being soaked and small bowls of spicy curries.

Transport in Kataragama:

The town is small and can be covered on foot, and from the bus terminal to the main entrance of the complex formed by the various temples is not more than 5-10 minute walking.

From the quiet of Kataragama bus Terminal, depart frequently buses to Tissamaharama, Buttala, Wellawaya, Matara, etc …

Population: 21,000

Altitude: 48 meters

Ella

Ella is a small town that emerges almost at the end of the railway line that runs through the Hill Country, a mountain area located in the center-south of the island of Sri Lanka. Along the way, from Kandy to Ella, the train meanders through hill dominated by tea plantations, a green but monotonous landscape, punctuated here and there by small clusters of houses, mostly belonging to one of the dozens of tea plantations, the Tea Estate, that keep the colonial philosophy of boarding workers and family.

Along the way are the most popular stations among foreign visitors, as Nanu Oya to visit Nuwara Eliya, a relic of British colonialism, Haputale near the Horton Plains National Park and World’s End, two natural parks that provide good hikes in the mountains. Any of these destinations was out the route of this visit Sri Lanka; Nuwara Eliya by having the reputation for being hard to find budget accommodation, with most lodgings in the cottage and heritage hotels; the walks through nature parks imply a $15 entry fee, higher than the daily budget for a backpacker traveling through Sri Lanka.

So the best solution to avoid this highly touristic itinerary, was the humble but peaceful train trip, especially the section between Haputale and Ella, which provided magnificent landscapes illuminated by the calm light of the down, that here comes early, with the sun hiding behind the mountains, leaving room for the fresh mountain air that forcing to dress one more layer of clothing.

Ella at first glance little has attractive because it is no more than a set of buildings along the national road, with one or two more streets. However, the site offers in January a mild climate with sunny days, not too hot, with cool but not freezing nights.

The high number of guest houses and homestays offers rooms for all budgets, the small size of the village, and the quiet and informal atmosphere makes Ella an attractive destination for a couple days of rest, after Adam’s Peak hike.

Excelling in Ella landscape is called Ella Gap, a valley that forms a kind of canyon that descends steeply towards the southern plains of Sri Lanka, by a winding road between steep slopes. Making this journey toward the south, is notorious the abrupt change of the climate just as you arrive at the next town, Wellawaya, leaving behind the fresh mountain air to soak in the hot and humid tropical climate.

Ella left a memory of a peaceful and relaxing days in a tasteless village; but above all the strong memory of delicious food, with Ella unexpectedly provide the best rice and curry, tasted during the 30 days stay in Sri Lanka … where wasn’t a day without rice and curry !!!!

Where to stay in Ella:

Ella has many accommodation options, one or the other next to the train station, some along the national road (which by the way is not very noisy); but the majority is spread along the slopes around the village, at a walking distance from the train station of from the bus stop, that is in the middle of Ella.

The wide balcony, a view of the Ella Gap and an atmosphere that takes us to the past, not only by the architecture of the house, an old mansion but also by the decor and furniture, in a mix of antique and kitsch, were decisive in the choice of Rock View Guest House. It’s located very near the center of Ella, less than 10 minutes walking from the train station, near the main road, but given the high position you’ll not disturb by the traffic noise. There are several rooms in different buildings: some are more modern but others still maintain an attractive and charming patina.

Rock View Guest House

double room with bathroom: 3000 LKR

Free Wi-fi

http://rockviewella.com/

Where to eat in Ella:

By attracting much tourism due to the peaceful environment that chooses to remain a few days in Ella, there are plenty of options in terms of restoration, from traditional rotis and kotus, to the most sophisticated restaurants with international cuisine, pizzerias, cafes…

Prices are inflated even in for local food, with dishes adapted to western taste, away from excessive spicy food by which Sri Lanka is famous. It is not easy to find a restaurant that serves an authentic rice and curry, but by chance, the attention was for a small grocery store with a placard at the entrance advertised buffet of rice and curry: Latha Rice Shop.

Serving delicious curries (pumpkin, jackfruit, green beans, bananas, etc…) the usual pol sambol (a spicy seasoning to coconut base) or gotukola sambol (one raw mixture of a green leaf vegetable with coconut and chilli), the always present dhal (lentils), two varieties of rice (white and red) and a lot of sympathy make this hidden location a choice among the local population. The best rice and curry experienced during a month in Sri Lanka. Very spicy!

The meal costs 200 LKR with a refill.

Address: on the right side of Passara Road, a bit up after a modern and shiny bulding

Apparently Ella is famous for curd and honey, which is no more than yogurt drizzled with honey, which in fact is not honey but treacle. It can be found in almost all restaurants. One traditional stall, now converted into a restaurant, the Curd Shop, is one of the places where you can try this delicious combination. Among several options, the choice fell to curd and honey with rice, which makes it a good choice for breakfast.

Apparently Ella is famous also for the curd with honey, that in fact is not honey but a sugar syrup. Here was served with rice that make a good option for breakfast

Train from Hatton to Ella:

The train trip from to Ella takes close to four hours, and can be hard to find a seat, at least in the beginning of the journey, if you are taking the first train of the day. However after Nanu Oya, many passengers get out, leaving the train quieter and make it easy to find a seat.

Ella station is less than 10 minutes from the center of the village, a distance easily covered on foot.

Train ticket: 160 LKR (2nd class)

Direct Bus from Ella to Kataragama:

At the junction between the main road and spent Road (the only two roads in Ella) is a tourist information stall where you can get some information about buses and trains schedules for Ella. The Curd Shop directly opposite is also a good source of information.

So for those who want to go to Kataragama (direct bus): 13.00h, 14.00h, 14.45h, 15.30h

The journey takes 2.40h (with a 15-minute break for lunch). You should arrive earlier to the bus stop because the bus doesn’t always respect the departure time: for example, 13h left at 12.55h.

Bus Ticket: 166 LKR

Bus Kandy to Kataragama, that stops in Ella

Direct bus from Ella to Tissamaharama (bound for Matara):

8.40h, 9.20h, 11.00h, 12.00h, 14.45h, 15.30h, 16.40h

The bus number 10, which makes the Kandy-Kataragama connection goes through Tissamaharama (Tissa) before reaching Kataragama, at the times indicated above (13.00h, 14.00h, 14.45h, 15.30h) are also valid for those routes Yala National Park.

For those making the trip to Tissamaharama and Kataragama in the morning outside this schedule, can take one of the several buses passing through the center of Ella, toward the south to the village of Wellawaya. In Wellawaya is necessary to change from bus to the desired destination, which may require an intermediate bus exchange.

There isn’t a proper bus stop at Ella. Buses heading north stop in front of Curd Shop. For those who follow south to stop is about 10 meters down the intersection with Pasara Road, in front of a hotel.

Ella population: 44,500

Ella altitude: 1041 m

Mirissa and the whales

Taking advantage of the stay in Narigama Beach and to break the routine made from swimming in the warm sea and walk along the beach, a boat ride for whale watching show up as a good option, as the south coast of Sri Lanka is considered one of the best places to observe the Blue Whale, the largest mammal on the planet.

The best time of year for whale watching, not only blue whale but also of other species is from November to April and July to September when this giant remain in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean for feed. But the months of December to March are the ones that provide a more quiet sea, however, it is still easy to get sick with the ripple that is not so smooth.

The boat ride to the favorable place for watching cetaceans takes over an hour to go, but not that far that you can not see the coast. Along the way, a group of dolphins (Spiner dolphins) crossed the boat’s trajectory always offering a lively show.

When the boat arrived at the place and put the engines in slow rotation waiting for some whales to show up, already about one-third of the passenger was sick, not even giving the chance to eat the breakfast provided at the beginning of the trip along with a tea in an unexpected china cup!

Once that was seen one of the characteristic winches breath of the cetaceans, the various boats waiting on site, over ten, speed the engines trying to get the best position to watch the whales, which even considering that the safety rules are being respected may cause some stress to the animal.

However the creature spotted, a blue whale, returned two more to the surface to breathe, between long intervals, always creating a strange feeling of a shiver for being there before such gigantic animal, able to shows an unreal gentleness, each time it comes out to breath or when the tail emerges from the water.

The return, that always looks faster than the outward journey, there was time and “stomach” for the breakfast and to observe a sea turtle swimming in the same direction of the boat and that briefly remained on the surface before diving into the dark waters of the southern coast of Sri Lanka.

The little time spent in Mirissa, once a fishing village and now focuses more on tourism, where the main attraction is the observation of marine animals, whether on boat rides or diving, revealed to be a quiet and laid back place, that keeps the local lifestyle and where people are always willing to receive us with a genuine smile.

Where to stay in Mirissa

There are handfuls of options in terms of accommodation in Mirissa, including many guest houses and homestays that rent rooms. Prices are slightly higher than in Narigama but also Mirissa attracts more people because it has a more lively nightlife, that focuses on a small but nice beach along a bay a bit more sheltered from the swell.

Moon Glow Guest is a homestay, where friendly and very willing owner rents rooms on the ground floor while the rest of the family occupies the top floor. The house is new and is spotlessly clean, with the room with mosquito-net (a must) and a clean and modern shared toilet. It is located on a small side street off the main street that connects the Mirissa beach the harbor; is about 5 minutes walk from the harbor where whale watching boats leave.

double room (with shared toilet): 2000 LKR

Address: Kapparamulla, Mirissa

Contact: 077 3955172, 041 2254901

free wi-fi

_Mirissa_Moon Glow Guest house_DSC_6906 — Moon Glow Guest House. Mirissa

Moon Glow Guest house. Contacts. Mirissa

Where to eat in Mirissa

Along the beach line up many restaurants as also some hotels serving both Sri Lankan food as international food but where the bet is on grilled fish and seafood.

But along the national highway A2 are many local food restaurants, which usually do not serve dinners, but where you can find rice and curry for lunch. For a later meal or a dinner, the options are rotis and kutus.

How to go to Mirissa by bus:

The most economical way to get to Mirissa is by bus, but many people choose to make the journey in a tuk-tuk, which is more comfortable to do the 35 kilometers that separate the two sites and it takes about 1 hour; expect to pay more than 1000 LKR, depending on each one negotiation skills.

If you choose to do the trip by bus you must change bus in Galle Bus Terminal, but that shouldn’t take more than 5 minutes since the frequency is really high during day time.

Bus Narigama – Galle: 35 LKR; 30 minutes

Bus Galle – Mirissa 50 LKR (or 52 LKR); 1 hour

Whale watching tour:

A bit everywhere, even in Hikkaduwa and Narigama, there are ads for excursions to see the whales along the southern coast of Sri Lanka.

At Hikkaduwa, these tours cost 5000 LKR per person and include tuk-tuk ride to Mirissa and the boat trip. The tour starts at 5 a.m. and ends by 12 p.m.

At Mirissa, you can get a better price, with the boat ride costing 4000 LKR.

However, going directly to the harbour, where dock the boats that make this whale watching trips, easily identifiable by the double-deck filled with chairs and benches, and speaking directly with the boat staff you can easily get at least 2000 LKR per person, including breakfast (a small sandwich, boiled egg, pineapple and bananas) and water, as the mandatory lifejacket. On board are also available pills for sea sickness.

However this option being the cheapest it involves spending a night in Mirissa because the boats depart at 7 am, but you need to arrive early at 6 am, that makes it difficult to arrive on time if you came by bus to Mirissa. After the boat ride that can take longer than just the morning, depending on the distance to where the whales can be watched) one just take any bus that passes on the national road towards Galle and then look for another bus towards Hikkaduwa (150 LKR total per person, both ways).

The boat was the Blue Ocean, that limits the number of passengers to about 10 or 12, which means that there´s plenty of room on board, and don’t risk the stability of the vessel when all passengers rush to one side to see and take pictures to the whales.

Whale watching tour: 2000 LKR… and few rupees more for tipping the crew.

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Population: 21,000

Altitude: 48 meters

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