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Stepping Out Of Babylon

Travel & Photography

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Destinations

How to cross the border Gurbulak–Bazargan (Turkey-Iran)

Due to problem in the east part of Turkey, resulting from conflicts to Kurdish community the train that usually runs from Ankara to Tehran, Trans-Asia Express, was canceled. Check for more update information about Trans-Asia Express at: http://www.seat61.com/Iran.htm#train

According to the few information that I could get, the border Kapikoy– Razi, in Van district is open and the bus connection to border towns don’t have any problem.

Other popular and easy border is the Gurbulak – Bazargan, a bit north, closer to Armenia, and this was the chosen one to enter Iran.

Erzurum – Doğubayazıt

The city of Erzurum doesn’t show much attractive, except the beautiful naked mountain that are visible from many places in the city. Anyway, from here there are buses to Doğubayazıt.

There are buses several times a day, but is recommended to leave early in the morning, as the trip until Doğubayazıt takes ore than 3.5 hours, and arrive with time to visit the Ishak Pasha Palace, that closes at 5pm.

The bus ticket should be bought in advance, in the bus terminal (a few kilometers far from the city) on in one of the bus companies and bus agents in the center of Erzurum, at Nazik Çarsisi Caddesi, close to the main shopping street.

The ticket cost 30 TL.

Doğubayazıt – Gurbulak

Doğubayazıt is the last town in Turkish side before the border.

Here is definitively recommend to spend the night, to start the trip to Iran in the morning and avoid to arrive to Tabriz too late. I leave from Doğubayazıt at 9.30 am and arrive to Tabriz at 8 pm.

The city is small, and easy to orientate. The buses from Erzurum stop in the main street. From there is 5 minutes walking until the office where the mini-vans (dolmus) to the border.

Mini-vans start at 7 am, and leave Doğubayazıt as soon they are full, and take 35 minutes until the border.

The ticket cost 7 TL.

Doğubayazıt
Doğubayazıt. Office of the bus company that makes the service to Gurbulak… at front of the office there’s a few mii-vans parked

Doğubayazıt
Doğubayazıt, in fronto fo the mini-van company that make the trip until the border

Border Turkey-Iran (Gurbulak- Bazargan)

Despite the long queue of trucks, there are only a few people crossing the border, not much more that the people that arrive in your mini-van.

After showing your passport and Turkish visa (the printed paper visa), and have your passport stamped, just follow to the next building were are situated the Iranian Immigration Office.

For women this is the time to put the scarf over the head.

In the Iranian side it takes more time to the foreigners, I mean, the non-Iranian or Turkish, because it is asked a few question about the reason of the trip and places to visit… just give the classic itinerary (Tabriz, Tehran, Esfahan, Yazd…) and make the life easier to you and to the border officer.

After this you are in Iran, where a friendly group of men, interrupt theirs chatting to ask same friendly questions and invite for tea. Here, according to some Internet infos, there are two guys that are good resource of information about the country.

Several friendly guys that want to exchange money will intercept you, both in Turkish as at the Iranian side, just outside the imitation buildings. Despite they insisting that is no possible to exchange Turkish Lira after the border, don’t believe, you can do it later… is up to you! Here in the street you can also exchange dollars and euros. If you are confortable with the Iranian currency and rates maybe is a good option, otherwise just wait 5 minutes until reach Barzagan.

Watch out that the time zone change in Iran, 1.5 hours late.

Turkey-Iran border (Gurbulak–Bazargan)
Turkey-Iran border (Gurbulak–Bazargan)

Bazargan – Maku

From the border you need to walk about 3 km or take a taxi to the next town of Bazargan, that is not much more than road with some shops, restaurants and small offices were you can exchange money. There are not much signs but just ask about “exchange” and suddenly you are surrounded by people trying to push you to an office of a friend. The rates are more or less the same. Here you can also exchange dollars and euros. Just get what you need to reach your next destiny… for sure there you’ll get a better rate.

Shared taxi cost 20.000 Rial per person.

You can change the last Turkish Liras at Gurbulak or Bazargan, but the taxi drivers accept TL until Maku.

Bazargan – Maku

From Bazargan you need a taxi to the next town that takes not more than 20 minutes, Maku where you find a bus terminal, and from here another bus to Tabriz, Tehran, etc…

Shared taxi cost 20.000 Rial per person.

There’s nothing in Maku that make you stay there, so you can go straight to the small and quiet bus terminal. There you find different bus companies offices. Is difficult to get information about schedules… so just arrive and ask about the next bus to the city that you want to go.

The Maku bus terminal, is a bit far from the center Maku, but has some small restaurants and acceptable toilets.

To Tabriz there is a bus departing at 3 p.m. Watch out that the time zone change in Iran, 1.5h plus.

The trip to Tabriz takes 6h… because the bus stops many times to pick and drop passenger on the way. Maybe a night bus is faster.

Bus ticket Maku-Tabriz: 110.000 Rials

Maku
Maku
Maku Bus Terminal
Maku Bus Terminal

How to get the Turkish visa

Get a visa to visit Turkey is easy and fast.

Since the computer system was introduced for the visa Turkish, e-visa, it is not possible to obtain visas on arrival at the airport or at any land border.

Simply fill out the form found on the website of emigration Turks services (https://www.evisa.gov.tr/en/) and after pay by credit card, following the instructions, the electronic visa is sent by e-mail the same day.

To facilitate the migration of service passages in this document (an A4 sheet) to be printed and maintained until the exit of the country, when it is requested again.

  • Cost: 20 €
  • Valid for 6 months after first entry
  • Multiple entries
... miss the old style visa stamp!
… miss the old-style visa stamps!

About Turkey and Turkish people

After a short stay of two-week, few conclusions can be drawn from a country so vast and with so much history and cultural diversity. However impressions, feelings and ideas, were experienced, the realities observed as also information exchanged with the population.

 

Language and Writing

Although Turkish is a completely different language where there are few common words, appear here and there same familiar French sounds like “pardon” to ask say “excuse me”.

The greeting is given by “merhaba” and thank you by “texekkur”

Having the Turkish links with the Arabic language, the writing system was for centuries in Arabic characters, but thanks to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, in the year 1928, the Turkish language was converted to the western alphabet, which makes it much easier in terms of orientation and location learning and even more basic words, such as food.

In Istanbul and in areas with more tourists, like Goreme, you will find someone who speaks English, sometimes fluently, others just the enough for basic communication about directions, information about buses and schedules, destinations, prices, etc… But outside these areas the situation seems to be more difficult, although the local people, who despite this limitation is sparing no efforts to help us, using the sign language as calling someone younger that can speak a bit of English.

The contact with the younger population, from urban areas and with a higher level of education show another reality, were is easy to have a more deep conversation about society, religion, etc…

 

Buses

Turkey has an efficient and modern transport system, with a network that covers the whole country, and with many passenger transportation companies. The bus terminals are generally large, modern, clean and organized, with toilets, seating areas and restaurant/shops zones. In smaller cities this terminal become more modest, but still with the comfortable conditions to wait a few hours between bus connections.

Kamil Koç and the Metro are two of the best and more reliable companies used during this trip in Turkey, the wide range of connections between major cities, an effective service of information and ticket sales, as also in the quality of buses, with both offering different kinds of service, from the normal 4 seats raw until the more spacious VIP buses, were tea and water are served.

The good quality of the roads and buses, even the most modest companies makes buses a good option for long trips.

There are many night services.

Reserve ticket by web pages is not possible because you must enter the “TC” the number of Turkish identity, and passport number or any other identification document works.

Istanbul offers an effective and reliable transportation network that relies on buses, boats and Metro.

Metro e Kamil Koç destacam-se nas viagens de bus
Metro e Kamil Koç destacam-se nas viagens de bus

Train

There was no opportunity to try this mode of transport during this short trip.

The connection Ankara-Tehran, the famous Trans-Asia Express, was canceled due to problems in Eastern Turkey, with conflicts with the Kurdish population. There’s no information about possible reopening (Sep 2015). Although for more updated information http://www.seat61.com/Iran.htm#train

Tickets must be booked in advance especially if travel at weekends and upcoming religious holiday, like Kurban Bayrami, where many people are heading to visit family; this also applies to bus and plane tickets.

In train travel, as well as on long-distance buses, it is not customary for men stay sitting next to women unless they are couples, relatives or friends; this system can become a issue at the time of buying tickets during of peak demand, where sometimes there are eats available, but not always next to a person of the same sex as you.

http://www.seat61.com/Turkey2.htm

 

Religion

Despite all the efforts of Ataturk to bring Turkey closer to western standards, reducing the power of Islamic religion and transform the country in a secular society, Turkey has become in recent years more conservative, with a greater presence of the Muslim religion in daily life of the population.

Officially more than 95% of the population is Muslim, mostly Sunni, but there still Alevis, Sufis and Shias.

Since social and political reforms introduced by Ataturk from 1926, the society was modernized as well the dress code, which has become more Western, leading to gradual abandon of Islamic tradition that forces women to cover their hair, starting to be a choice of each one.

But recently, with the increasing power of Islamic groups and religious fervor, the use of the headscarf, which was previously only a tradition, become more often. Is quiet frequent to see women and teenagers using the hijab, a scarf that covers the entire hair, ears and neck. The use of chador, black mantle surrounding body, is more common in conservative areas, for example in Erzurum, but is not unusual to find it in Istanbul, at Fatih and near bazaar.

Blue Mosque, Istanbul
Blue Mosque, Istanbul

 

Cash

There are ATMs everywhere, accepting most Visa and Master Card, but a commission is charge for each movement. You can also make payments by credit card and even some bus companies accept payment by credit card for long journey trips.

To save the exaggerated costs of bank fees charged outside the Euro zone, the option was to bring money and exchange locally by Turkish Liras.

In Istanbul, and in the most tourist areas is easy to find exchange shop, that usually don’t charge commission. Still is recommender to check the rates in a few shops because the difference could be noticeable.

Another option are the ATMs machines/banks that are prepared to exchange money, introducing dollar, euros or pounds bills, and return Turks Liras, no commission and a very reasonably good exchange rate.

By my experience, the best option was to go directly to the bank… may take a while, depending on the number of people. It is necessary to ask first about the rates and the commission… in some places like Goreme, with just one bank the deals wasn’t good, not even in the exchange shops. The best option found was the Ziraat Bankasi, easily identifiable by the red logo, where I found the best exchange rate without commissions.

Ziraat Bankasi
Ziraat Bankasi

Generosity and hospitality

There is no doubt that these two words make a stay in Turkey.

Usually, everywhere people show friendly and curious, always available to help, whether giving directions, helping them find sites, providing information, offering food to try, a tea…

This sympathy was even more evident with the couchsurfing experience in Istanbul, Erzurum and Doğubayazıt, where hospitality word was brought “to the letter”, having shared the house with people who did not know, who helped me, providing information and guidance, showing the city, searching for transport, and specially by making and sharing meals and life experiences.

 

Kurds

With the long history of empires and civilizations that passed through here, Turkey is currently home to diverse ethnic and religious minorities such as Armenians, Jews, Greeks, Kurds and many other groups belonging to neighboring countries or countries that belonged to the Ottoman Empire. However these groups, the largest in terms of population are the Kurds, who account for about 15%, and still not recognized as ethnic group.

Holders of their own culture and language, but being Sunni Muslims, as well as the Turks were never officially recognized. The areas where they predominately live, mainly in the east and the southeast of Turkey, were not supported and developed in parallel with other parts of the country, which led to a greater sense of exclusion that continues today causing conflicts, and perhaps a desire for a Kurdistan “the land of the Kurds.”

Recently (September 2015) there were some conflicts in the east of Turkey, which led to the temporary closure of the rail link Trans-Asia Express that crosses the province of Van, near the border of Iran.

 

Atatürk

The “Father of the Turks” is all over the place. It cannot be said to be a revered figure, but no doubt it is a respected figure whose image is present in many public places such as shops, restaurants, cafes, hotels, railway station, official departments… and in the Turks Lira bills.

Mustafa Kemal, nickname Atatürk, having ruled the country for eighteen years, represents a turning point in the history of Turkey, creating rules and reforms that radically changed the political, justice, economy and society, transformed Turkey into a secular country, more close to European standards. He developed the industry, gave priority to education, gave women equal political and social rights, banned polygamy, and abolished the political system based on Caliphates, where political power was reserved to Islamic religious.

His name is in avenues and squares and the International Airport of Istanbul, and is undoubtedly the main responsible for the modern and developed society that is now Turkey.

 

Atatürk
Atatürk

The brief spell in Turkey was the impression of a modern country, proud of its past, which persists the weight of religion and traditions.

Erzurum

Erzurum is a city that attracts few foreign visitors, not offering much more than ski resorts.

However the University here existing attracts a lot of young people, giving some life to a gray, cold city, even at a time of year when the autumn is come and we are still far from cold temperatures that cover the mountains surrounding the city of snow which lasts until April.

This is a conservative area in religious terms, perhaps due to the proximity to neighbor Iran, in Erzurum is no alcohol sold in supermarkets and restaurants, but there are a few bars and liquor stores selling it.

The stay in Erzurum was short, but necessary on the route to the border with Iran.

Erzurum
Erzurum
Yakutiye Madrash, Erzurum
Yakutiye Madrash, Erzurum
Erzurum
Erzurum
Erzurum
Traditional home Erzurum Evleri that works as restaurant and a tea house, while maintaining an atmosphere of museum

Where to stay:

As there are few hotels and many houses shared by the student population, the option in Erzurum went to Couchsurfing, where we were greeted by a group of students from different regions of Turkey, which were excellent hosts, showing the city, sharing views on society, culture and Turkish traditions … and above all sharing delicious home cooking. A very special generosity and hospitality.

Couchsurfing Crew
Couchsurfing Crew

Where to eat:

No doubt that the best meals were served at home, prepared by our hosts, and were good examples of traditional Turkish food. However the city center there are the usual restaurants and fast food places like borek and pide.

The excelled pastry Luks Pastanesi, with delicious breakfast, as well as the variety in terms of bread and pastries, served in a sophisticated atmosphere.

Lüks Pastanesi, Erzurum
Lüks Pastanesi, Erzurum

Transports:

The bus station is quite far from the city. Major transport companies offer shuttles from the terminal to the center.

Bus tickets can be purchased in various offices of transport companies at Nazik Çarsisi Caddesi, one of the streets perpendicular to the main avenue, Kongre Cd.

For those who want to cross the land border with Iran (Gurbulak-Bazargan) need to find a bus from Erzurum to Doğubayazıt, the last town before the border.

It is difficult to find information on schedules this connection. But around 10 am a bus leave daily from Erzurum Bus Terminal. You can also buy the ticket in one of the existing agencies in the city center that provide transportation to the terminal up to certain parts of the city where the bus passes on the way out of the city.

It is recommended to book the bus ticket, at least one day in advance, because the bus is usually full.

The journey takes about 3 to 4 hours. It costs 30 TL.

Nazik Çarsisi Cd.
Nazik Çarsisi Cadessi

Turkish food… a vegetarian approach!

At the first days words like borek, pide, dondurma, donner, baklava, lokum, gozleme, ayran… sound strange and confusing, but gradually they will become associated with delicious flavors, tasty meals and sweet pastries.

Definitely the Turkish cuisine is far from be vegetarian “friendly” as most of the dishes are dominated by meat, with the smell of the kebab, grilled minced meat served in bread, spreading thought the streets… but with it isn’t so difficult as it look like at the first sight, offering a wide range of vegetarian options  and after two weeks the Turkish cuisine left a delicious memory!!!

But the vast territory of Turkey, from the Mediterranean to the Black Sea, from Europe to Asia, hosting various ethnic groups and absorbing influences of different empires that have passed here, result in a rich and diverse gastronomy, where a short time cannot do justice.

The Kuru Fasulye, one of the few traditional Turkish dishes that are vegetarian, made with bean stewed in slightly spicy sauce and served with rice. Often yogurt serves as a side dish at Turkish meals. In a country where alcohol is not very frequent, the yran is usual presence at meals; a drink made of fermented milk with a taste similar to yogurt that sometimes can have a salty taste. It is sold in pack in supermarkets and shops but in traditional restaurants comes in vats where the yran circulates and is kept fresh, bringing soft foam when it is served.

Dairy products are a strong presence in Turkish cuisine, such as yogurt and yran, but is the cheese that stands out, not only by the wide variety of flavours, textures and shapes.

The cheese is traditionally served for breakfast, as well as the olives, which are available in a wide variety.

The borek is also consumed in the morning, but can be found throughout the day at shops that typically engaged in the production and sale of snacks, like borek and pide, a kind of pizza based on a single ingredient: beef, spinach, cheese …

The borek consists of a succession of filo dough layers, stuffed with cheese, forming a roll that is cooked in the oven. Although delicious, this option is quite greasy. Another variant is a borek is similar to lasagna layers, piled on a tray and stuffed with salty cheese, or sometimes spinach or meat.

The borek as the pide were the best options in terms of light meals for vegetarians in Turkey. However, there are many restaurants, especially in Istanbul, serving meals ready made with a large diversity of food, where is always possible to have a meal based on a combination of different dishes.

Çorbası cannot be unnoticed: a traditional soup, which is available at most of the restaurants. There some places specialised in this type of meal that is always served with bread. The most common is the lentil soup, which can present different aspects of the orange to more brown tones, depending on the type of lentil used.

The gozleme is a similar to a thicker crepe, stuffed with cheese, and sometimes spinach or meat. It is a bit all over the place and can serve as a meal or as a snack between meals. Made traditionally in a metal plate heated by fire, but that can also be cooked in a frying pan.

Sweets….

Pastries in Turkish, Pastanesi, are one of the first things that catch the eye upon arrival in Istanbul, that also selling bread but focused mainly on sweets from cakes, cookies, puddings… and the famous baklava: sweet made with filo dough, soaked in a sugar syrup or honey and stuffed with different kinds of nuts like almonds, pistachio and walnuts. Also popular is the lokum, sweet with a texture that resembles gelatine but consistent, which takes the form of rolls that are trim and covered with sugar powder. No doubt that honey and nuts are a common dominator the Turkish pastry, which shows elaborate and intense.

the amazing turkish bread!

As all over the world, the bread plays an important rule in Turkish gastronomy, presented in many different forms, from rings, to flattened rolls of different thickness, loafs… in a great variety and richness of flavors.

The most popular, the simit, and sell in the Istanbul streets, has a shape of a ring with sesame or sunflower seeds on top.

tea or coffee?!?!?

Being a vast country with a great mix of cultures, Turkey, offers a wide variety of food that was not possible to know in such a short travel time. Yet topic on Turkish cuisine cannot be complete without reference to coffee and tea.

The traditional Turkish coffee, resulting from a very fine grinding to which is added boiling water and then is taken to the fire, but without letting the mixture to boil. Is served in small cups and drink slowly savoring the smooth coffee taste. In the bottom of the cup, are the dregs, forming a thick, dark paste, which second tradition can reveal the “secrets” of the future; this requires turning the cup on the saucer and let the coffee remains cool down and trickle, leaving a trail in the cup which is then interpreted by who is instructed in this “science”.

But it’s the tea, here called chai, that is definitively elected as national drink and is drunk in the morning as well as throughout the day… as justification for a break in the working day, for a gathering of friends, a pause to relax.

And here in Turkey we can even speak of the tea cult, considering the way it is prepared and served, always in small glass cups. Like other countries such as Russia and Iran, the preparation of tea is often made in somovar consisting of a container placed over the fire, to heat the water until boiling; on top of samovar is placed a pot, where the tea is prepared, mixing the leaves with boiling water, were must rest for a few minutes. A small amount of this tea is poured into the cups, and then added hot water, which is kept warm in somovar base.

Definitively Turkish gastronomy is rich, with a wide variety of ingredients, delicious bread and amazing sweets.

 

uma das muitas variantes da baklava, um doce feito com massa filo, embebida num xarope de açúcar ou mel e recheada com diverso tipos de frutos secos como amêndoa, pistácio e nozes
one of the many variants of baklava, a sweet made with filo dough, soaked in sugar syrup or honey and stuffed with different kinds of nuts like almonds, pistachio and walnuts

baklava, numa outra variante recheada de pistácio
baklava, stuffed in another variant of pistachio

Hafiz Mustafa, uma loja centenária de 1864, especializada em baklava
Hafiz Mustafa, a century-old store in 1864 at the center of Istanbul, specialized in baklava and Lukum

Cheese is a constant presence in the Turkish cuisine, lying in dozens of variants
Cheese is a constant presence in the Turkish cuisine, lying in dozens of variants

 

Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, marca de café que é uma referência na Turquia; pode ser encontrada em supermercados um pouco por todo o país, mas é em Istanbul, junto ao Spice Bazar que se encontra uma loja onde se faz a moagem e a embalagem do café, numa pequena área onde trabalham freneticamente uma dúzia de empregados tentando atender as dezenas de pessoas que constantemente fazem fila junto às duas janelas que servem de balção de venda
Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, coffee brand that is a reference in Turkey; can be found in supermarkets all over the country, but is in Istanbul, near the Spice Bazaar which is a store where you do the grinding and packaging of coffee, a small area where they work frantically a dozen employees trying to meet dozens of people who constantly line up next to two windows

casa de chá em Erzurum, onde o samovar ocupa o centro da mesa e de onde é servido o chá.
Traditional tea-shop in Erzurum, where the samovar occupies the center of the table and where they served tea

forma tradicional de cozinhar o gozleme, numa chapa metálica sobre fogo
traditional way of cooking gozleme, on a metal plate over the fire

gozleme recheado de queijo e espinafres
gozleme stuffed with cheese and spinach

Kuru Fasulye um prato tradicional, um dos poucos pratos que é vegetariano
Kuru fasulye a traditional dish, one of the few traditional Turkish dishes that are vegetarian: beans served with rice, yogurt and cabbage pickle.

lokum
Lokum
Pastanesi, que vende pão e pastelaria
Attractive pastries, “pastanesi” in Turkish, with delicious cakes, cookies, pudings and where you can also find a big variety of bread.

pide, uma espécie de pizza de forma oval que pode ser recheada com queijo, espinafres, ovo e carne
pide, a kind of oval shaped pizza that can be stuffed with cheese, spinach, egg and meat

sütlaç (rice pudding) um pudim à base de leite com arroz, cozinhado no forno e servido com topping de pistácio e amêndoa. Encontra-se nas pastelarias e lojas de doces mas este foi “descoberto” num vendedor ambulante junta a Galata Tower em Instanbul
sütlaç (rice pudding) milk based pudding with rice, cooked in the oven and served with pistachio and almond topping. It is found in bakeries and candy stores but this was “discovered” a street vendor joins the Galata Tower in Istanbul

yran, bebida à base de leite fermentado, com sabor semelhante a iogurte e que pode ser por vezes ter um paladar salgado
Yran drink made with fermented milk, with a yogurt flavour and salted

Turkish Coffee servido em pequenas chávenas
Turkish Coffee serve in small cups

simit, um dos pães mais populares na Turquia
Simit, one of the most popular breads in Turkey, taty and with a good price that can be found in bakeries as also in the streets of Istanbul

pequeno-almoço Turco onde pão, tomate, azeitonas, pepino, ovos, e uma grande variedade de queijos estão sempre presentes. A isto acrescenta-se compotas e mel
Turkish breakfast where bread, tomato, olives, cucumber, eggs, and a variety of cheeses are always present; to this it added jam and honey

Through Cappadocia

The surrounding region to the village of Goreme, concentrate most of the tourist attractions that make the famous Cappadocia: its arid landscapes, rocks sculpted by erosion, the underground cities, castles, monasteries and churches built in the rocks. The presence of Greek communities in this region has left examples of the Orthodox Christian religion in churches and monasteries, as is the house of the village of Mustafapasa.

The area is vast and required at least two days to visit the most popular sites.

One of the routes, at north of Goreme: pass by the Love Valley, including Goreme Open Air Museam, Çavusin, Zelve, Urgup, Uçhisar. One can also visit Mustafapasa and Cemil Monastery.

Zelve stands out for its castle, much like that of Uçhisar, but with the attraction of being able to find a traditional house dug into the rock, inhabited by a friendly couple, who apart to show the interior of the housing serves a light meal consisting of gozleme, ayran, and some vegetables picked from the garden just before serving.

Mustafapasa, a small, quiet village, proved to be a nice place to rest in this intense itinerary, offering a number of monasteries built during the presence of Greek Orthodox in this region, especially the elaborate masonry work in churches and village buildings.

The Cemil Monastery a bit out of the popular rout, has at the entrance a friendly and helpful guard, that speaking reasonable English shown desirous of a chat to break the monotony of being away from everything only nagging wife in the company. At the end of the visit we are asked to sit for tea and a few more explanations of the monastery. Despite recent works, the frescoes with religious motifs that remain on the ceiling and walls of the church have not been recovered, lying vandalized and dirty, and only with a help of a flashlight you can get an idea of ​​its beauty.

Although not extensively visiting all these places, the walk along the roads and through villages is itself interesting, the typical landscapes of Cappadocia, arid and rocky, where time carved the rocks giving them organic shapes and sometimes bizarre.

 

The second rout covers the more kilometers, and is recommended to start early: Derinkuyu, Belisirma, Ihlara Valley and Selime Monastery.

In Derinkuyu is possible to visit the underground city, a series of tunnels and stairways that connect halls, houses, stables, school and willing church in this labyrinth that reaches the five floors, and where you feel the pressure, physical as well as psychological, as that if you’re going down the narrow and low corridors.

This underground city, served as a refuge for Greeks, Christians, Zoroastrians and the Byzantines, who took refuge here during the Muslim and Mongolian occupations, protected by heavy stone doors, of circular shape, able to slide and block access to this city under the ground, with a capacity for twenty thousand people.

Ilahra Valley can be visited on foot or by following up Belisirma and toward the Ilahra of town you can have a wide view of the wooded valley that develops a red rock canyon. The green mass of trees that covers the valley, fed by a gentle river, there is a bit like an oasis in the dry and rocky landscape where the flatter areas dominates the cereal planting, but this time of year has already been harvested, leaving a yellowish creeping vegetation.

But it is the Monastery of Selime (Selime Katedrali) which offers the best performance, with the vast array of excavated buildings in the rock as well as a church and a cathedral have various facilities necessary for the operation of the monasteries, such as bedrooms, kitchen, warehouse, stables, wine cellar, dining rooms, etc. … And here also takes a broad view of the valley and the neighbour villages, where the houses built in stone and others dug into the rock.

Important note: to return to Goreme the best option, after visiting the Selime Monastery, is back the way that is again to Ilhara because going north toward Nevsehir, you must travel more than 60 km by highway, the that is far from a pleasant experience for what is a shaky scooter.

 

Love Valley
Love Valley

 

Zelve
Zelve Castle

 

Urgup
Urgup

 

Cappadocia
Cappadocia

 

Mosteiro de Selime (Selime Katedrali)
Selime Monastery (Selime Katedrali)

 

Mosteiro de Selime (Selime Katedrali)
Selime Monastery (Selime Katedrali)

 

Mosteiro de Selime (Selime Katedrali)
Selime Monastery (Selime Katedrali)

 

Mosteiro de Selime (Selime Katedrali)
Selime Monastery (Selime Katedrali)

 

Mosteiro de Selime (Selime Katedrali)
Selime Monastery (Selime Katedrali)

 

Mosteiro de Selime (Selime Katedrali)
Selime Monastery (Selime Katedrali)

 

Cappadocia_Selime Katedrali_DSC_0757
Selime Katedrali

 

Mustafapasa
Mustafapasa

 

Mustafapasa
Mustafapasa

 

Ilahra Valley
Ilahra Valley

 

Ilahra Valley
Ilahra Valley

 

Belisirma
Belisirma

 

Belisirma
Belisirma

 

Belisirma
Belisirma

 

Belisirma
Belisirma

 

Where to stay:

Goreme is a good starting point for exploring the region, as well as Uçhisar, located a few kilometers.

 

Where to eat:

There are several restaurants along this route, is next to the most tourist areas is even in nearby villages. However Zelve was in memory by homemade cheese gozleme. To get there, pass the castle and continue up the footpath, following a rough wooden signs indicating “traditional house”.

In Derinkuyu, underground city entrance there are several outdoor restaurants, serving appetizing gozleme with different fillings as well as other Turkish specialty.

Belisirma also has many restaurant situated by the river, in a bucolic setting offered by the sound of the small stream that runs through the valley and the trees that cool the hot, dry air of Cappadocia.

 

Gozleme saboreado em Zelve
Gozleme at the village of  Zelve

Transports:

The best way to explore the region is by renting a scooter. Cost: 80TL per day.

Maps are provided for guesthouses, hotels and travel agencies.

Alternatively there are three routes organized by travel agency covering the main points of interest.

It can use public buses bound for Urgup, Nevsehir, Ihlara, Avanos and Kayseri, to access some of these places, and the stop on the main road of Goreme, just below the bus terminal, almost opposite the only bank in town … uncertain times and no information on the arrest and buses, requiring request information from the local people.

 

Costs:

In all locations and need to pay a ticket ranging from 10 TL (Selime Monastery) and 20 TL (underground city of Derinkuyu), including Ihlara Valley, which is also charged entry for walking the valley.

The Cemil Monastery to be further from the tourist route costs only 5 TL.

 

Important note: to return to Goreme the best option, after visiting the Selime Monastery, is back the way that is again to Ilhara because going north toward Nevsehir, you must travel more than 60 km by highway, the that is far from a pleasant experience for what is a shaky scooter.

Goreme

The day starts early in the small village of Goreme, still with the cold morning air filling the narrow streets creating a labyrinth of stone houses; some of them using the rocks, which excavated provide comfortable housing that protects from the dry heat of this semi-desert region and from the cold winter, that here brings snow and ice.

In the morning, with the streets still empty is possible to feel the calm atmosphere of this small village, where women, wearing the baggy type “balloon” trousers, with flowery patterns, and scarf tied around her head, initiate housekeeping, cleaning the house, watering yards, shaking rugs…

A contrast to the pace that soon after will fill the streets with the buzz of tourists, with colorful costumes, wielding cameras and maps are headed to the highest point of the village.

Hence, in addition to having a global view of the village, which extends to Uçhisar, located a few kilometers ahead, you can get a broad view of wide vision and deserted rocky landscape featuring the Cappadocia, where the almost total absence of vegetation exposes the rocks shades, ranging from beige, gray to pale pink.

The typical landscape of the Cappadocia region is the result of erosion from rain and wind, which over millions of years was disaggregating these sandy rocks, resulting from volcanic activity… forming rock pillars, creating a sort of stone forest, tall chimneys or cones shape. Rivers, now dry, dug for centuries this rocky plateau creating canyons, creating sheltered valleys with excellent conditions for orchards, such as the Pigeons Valley, near Goreme.

Given the little hard texture of these rock formations, man has learned to take advantage of caves formed naturally to build houses to dwell. In the highest areas small holes dug in the rocks serve to shelter pigeons, whose excrements were utilized to fertilize farm fields.

Goreme, situated in the heart of excrement, is one of the towns that has developed with tourism and where the balloon flights are one of the main attractions, offering a unique view over the valleys and rock formations with flights to carry out with the sunrise that offers unique landscapes views. Here tourists gathering in large numbers, especially from Asia and there is a wide range of accommodation, with more than a hundred hotels and guesthouses for various prices.

In addition to the magical moments of sunrise and sunset, Goreme doesn’t offer many attractions. So trips to Pigeons Valley, near the village, were repeated not only by the pleasant and atmosphere of the place quiet as by existing orchards over valley, many of them abandoned, its branches laden with apples offered delicious snacks as well as provisions for the following travel days.

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme, Pink Valley
Goreme, Pink Valley

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Balloon flights:

Despite being a “must do” a visit to Cappadocia, the balloon flights are expensive for a backpacker budget, at around 150 € per person for a one hour ride.

During winter, in addition to flights made at the sunrise, are also carried out flights in the evening, coinciding with the setting of the sun. The summer due to warm air currents caused by soil heat radiation does not offer safety conditions for the ascent of balloons, being carried out only one flight per day.

The flight is done in groups of 12 or 24 people, depending on balloon size.

Throughout the city there are dozens of travel agencies that organize these tours, which can also be arranged by hotels and guesthouses.

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Where to stay:

Goreme has about 160 apartments, for various prices.

Alternatively you can also stay in Uçhisar, a little smaller, but offers the same tourist facilities in terms of accommodation, restaurants, gift-shops and travel agencies.

The choice fell to Whisper Cave Guest House in Goreme, which in addition to double rooms with bathroom also has two dorms: a 3 beds (female) and another 5 beds (mixed).

 

Whisper Cave Guest House

Aydinli Orta Mahalle

Güngör Sokak No: 17

Göreme / Cappadocia / Turkey

Tel: 00 90 384 271 24 68

 

Price: € 7 dormitory with shared bathroom

Breakfast included (very good)

Free wi-fi

 

Whisper Cave Guest House
Whisper Cave Guest House

 

Whisper Cave Guest House
Whisper Cave Guest House

 

Where to eat:

There are dozens of restaurants and cafes, more or less concentrated in the center of the village and some connected to hotels.

Many offer traditional food of Anatolia, where stews and soups are served in clay pots.

Cafe Goreme, situated on the main street is a meeting place of the local population, where men chat during hours in front of a cup of coffee or a glass of tea, which is undoubtedly the national drink of Turkey.

Goreme. Pigeons Valley
Goreme. Pigeons Valley

 

Transportation:

Goreme with its 200 inhabitants is not exactly a bus terminal, but just outside the village there is a bus parking area, were are concentrated several companies and ticketing agency.

Direct buses to major cities connect Goreme, and you can travel in night service to Istanbul, Ankara, Erzuruem, for example: Konya, Kayseri, where is the nearest airport, lies nearer to have connecting buses several times a day.

Cappadocia
Cappadocia

Istanbul cats

Cats, cats and more cats … the city of Istanbul will always be associated with the presence of these cats, which are a bit all over the place, taking advantage of any location for an extended nap, is a tombstone in a graveyard, a balcony, a terrace, at the train station, in mosques, in markets or in a window of a shop… it is sometimes necessary to compete for space on a chair in a restaurant or a sofa in a coffee shop.

Mostly are stray cats, but the population of the city takes care of them, leaving food and water and always there’s time to stop and pet this creatures that are part of the Istanbul cosy atmosphere.

Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
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I’m Catarina, a wanderer from Lisbon, Portugal… or a backpack traveller with a camera!

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