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Amed

Amed… a good surprise!

After the white and thin sand of the beaches of Lombok, I arrive at the dark and stony beaches of Amed, on the east coast of Bali. In common they have the clear waters and the amazing aquatic life, with amazing colorful fishes and the less colorful but also impressive corals.

Rocky and dark, the beaches around Amed maybe don’t look very attractive at the first look, but the surrounding landscape is impressive with the Mount Angun, the highest point of the Bali island, at a very short distance, and with the Mount Batur behind, most of the times with the top surrounded by clouds, but that turns into a magic image at the sunset.

But this rocky shore, although it doesn’t offer a nice place for long walks along the sea, has the advantage of keeping the water clear and totally transparent, creating the perfect conditions for observing the corals, the fishes, the starfishes… most of them with bright and intense color, almost unreal.

Amed is definitively a dive spot, and this quiet village, not much more than a few houses along the road, with most of the accommodations along the seashore. The road winding along the coast to the south, where there are many more beaches, most of them still keeping the fishing as the core activity but where the number of resort and expensive accommodation is increasing.

 

 

Amed beach with Mount Angun at the sunset, Bali
Amed beach with Mount Angun at the sunset, Bali
Amed beach, Bali
Amed beach, nearby BarAcuda Bar… almost empty and away from the less clean area nearby the fishing boat of Amed village, Bali
Amed village, Bali
Amed village, Bali
Amed beach, Bali
Amed beach, Bali

But the quietness of the beach, in this time of the year between the end of the monsoon and the start of the high season, offer an almost empty beach, with warm and still waters and the show offer underwater by the aquatic life, easy to reach and with a lot of beauty… an unexpected surprise in this less travel coast of Bali!!!

Amed beach, Bali
Amed beach, Bali

Where to sleep in Amed:

Several options for all the budgets in Amed, where is easy to avoid the expensive resorts. Stay in Amed, even if you need to walk 10 minutes to the beach, make it easier to reach local food and some supermarkets and grocery shops.

  • Bucu Homestay (nearby BLD Diver shop). This place is not easy to find but you can go to the Pacha bar (an reggae bar on the main road) and there you’ll find the owner I Wayan of this family homestay. I Wayan can also give a lot of information and help you to plan your trip, as by shuttle services as by public transport, or even to arrange a boat trip to Gilis in fast boat. In low season a room with fan costs 100.000 Rp at Bucu Homestay (pronounce buchu), including breakfast that is served at Pacha Bar. The owner can also arrange a scooter for 50.000 Rp/day.

http://www.amedbucu.com/

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Bucu Homestay. Amed, Bali
Bucu Homestay. Amed, Bali

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lovely room at Bucu Homestay. Amed, Bali
lovely room at Bucu Homestay. Amed, Bali

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  • Behind Pacha Bar (located on the main road) also have bungalows in a very nice traditional construction and with a mezzanine (150.000 Rp for a double but where there’s space for four people) and a very good dorm (100.000 Rp) with a/c, locker, solid bunk beds and quite same privacy, just next to the Pacha Bar.

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Pacha Bungalows, Amed, Bali
Pacha Bungalows, Amed, Bali

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breakfast at Bucu Homestay... tasty but why always pancakes at Indonesia tourist breakfasts!?!?!?
breakfast at Bucu Homestay… tasty but why always pancakes at Indonesia tourist breakfasts!?!?!?

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Pacha Bungalows, Amed, Bali
Pacha Bungalows, Amed, Bali

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Pacha Bungalows, Amed, Bali
Pacha Bungalows, Amed, Bali

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Where to eat in Amed:

There are many options along the road from Amed to Jemeluk, but for this, you need a scooter, and any of this places stands up from the tourist-orientated menu.

But in Amed you can still find tasty local food with a local price.

  • Warung Man Pel (on the main road a bit after the bridge on the right side)… my favorite food! Usually is for take-away but there’s one table and you can eat there. Is open early in the morning but close before 11 a.m. Sometimes it opens again in the afternoon around 5 p.m…. sometimes don’t. A meal cost 10.000 Rp. Enak!!!
  • Warung Happy (on the main road nearby Sudi Homestay)… an old lady cooking the standard Indonesia menu. The portions are big and the food is spicy. The meals cost around 20.000 Rp.
The best food in Amed!!!! Enak!!!! but with a crazy schedule, opening early morning and closing before lunch time... sometimes open in the afternoon, sometimes don't!!!
The best food in Amed!!!! Enak!!!! but with a crazy schedule, opening early morning and closing before lunch time… sometimes open in the afternoon, sometimes don’t!!!

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Warung happy. Amed, Bali
Warung happy. Amed, Bali

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Warung happy on the main road of Amed, opp to Pacha Bar... simple food.
Warung happy on the main road of Amed, opp to Pacha Bar… simple food.

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How to move around in Amed:

By foot you can go to the beach but is better to walk further south from the village, away from the fishing area to have a cleaner place. On foot you can reach many restaurants and small groceries shops with the basic things.

Everywhere else you need a scooter.

Schedules and prices of the shuttle from Amed to different destination in Bali
Schedules and prices of the shuttle from Amed to different destination in Bali

What to do in Amed:

  • Snorkeling is defectively the best if you are not in the diving scene. I found a nice pace for snorkeling in front of the BarAcuda bar, where you can get the snorkeling set for 000 Rp a day, or just ask for a discount if you just want it for one hour. You don’t need to go far to reach the corals.
  • Rent a scooter and drive along the coast, to south until Aas. You have nice views and can stop in one of the many beaches that you’ll find along the way. Is a ride of 15 kilometers that is not amazing but is nice to do.
  • Swim at the warm and quiet waters. The beach just in front of Amed isn’t clean, but you walk about 1.5 kilometers and you’ll find a nice place to swim, almost empty nearby Kembali Beach Bungalows and Diver’s Café Amed. Walking along the road, parallel to the shore, isn’t easy to find the entrance to the beach, as the construction didn’t leave much space to reach the shore, but you can cross the resorts and hotel area without problem.

How to go from Gili to Amed (Bali) by public transport

It takes all day… and you can’t really control the length of the trip, as the ferry boat takes more than 4 hours and the bemos usually departure when they have more than three people.

From Gili Meno to Amed… step by step:

  • Boat from Gili Meno to Bangsal, departure at 8 a.m. (but is better arrive earlier as the boat leave as soon as it gets full) and costs 14.000 Rp and the trip takes 25 minutes.
  • At Bangsal you need to walkway from the pier avoiding the touts that will try to sell you something. You need to walk 1.2 kilometers until Pemenang where the bemos wait. If it’s too much to walk for you can get a cimodo or an ojek (moto-taxi).
  • The bemo from Pemenang to Mataram costs 20.000 Rp and takes around 1 hour. Tell the driver that you are going to Lembar and he will drop you nearby Pasar Cakranegara, on the Jalan AA. Gde Ngurah.
  • Then you need to spot a bemo that will be waiting on the left side of Jalan AA. Gde Ngurah (between the intersection with Jl Tumoang and Jl Chairil Anwar, not far from an Alfamart supermarket).
  • The bemo from Mataram to Lembar cost 20.000 Rp and it took 45 minutes and dropped me at the harbor entrance.
  • At Lembar harbor go straight to the ticket counter located on the right side. Public ferry Padangbai (Bali) cost 40.000 Rp. The ferryboats run 24 hours but don’t have a fix schedules and all depend on the time they need to fill the boat with trucks, cars and motorbikes. The ferry trip takes around 4.30 hours but can be more.
  • If you arrive during the day to Padangbai you can probably can find bemos that drive along the north coast (Candidasa, Amlapura and further north…) passing by Culik (pronounces Chulik). According to the information that I obtain you need two bemos as they don’t drive far distances.
  • I arrive around 7 p.m. (due to works at the pier of Padangbai that make the boat wait 1.5 hours offshore) so there were no bemos just the usual touts pushing me to a taxi for 300.000 to Amed. Think you can bargain up to 200.000 Rp but, as I was alone and still was too much.
  • So I got an ojek (moto-taxi) to Amed for 100.000 Rp… the ride took 1.5 hours… is a long 45 kilometers ride to do with a backpack on a motorbike!!!

Total time: 13 hours (5:45 hours in the ferry due to works at the Padangbai pier)

Total costs: 194.000 Rp (if you arrive during the afternoon you can use one of the bemos waiting at the pier, and save the hard trip by ojek)

The alternative to the public transport is the fast boat from Gilis to Amed, that takes 45 minutes and costs minimum 450.000 Rp… from Amed to Gilis you can get a fast-boat for 250.000 Rp.

Food:

There’s a masakan padang eatery at Lembar, on the left side a few meters before the ticket counter. Or you can get food and water from the vendors that hang around the pier.

Inside the ferry, you can have cookies, snacks, instant soup…

 

See also:

  • How to go from Lombok to Gilis
  • Mataram
  • How to go from Bali to Lombok by public ferry

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I’m Catarina, a wanderer from Lisbon, Portugal… or a backpack traveller with a camera!

Every word and photo here comes from my own journey — the places I’ve stayed, the meals I’ve enjoyed, and the routes I’ve taken. I travel independently and share it all without sponsors or ads, so what you read is real and unfiltered.

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