Indonesia

Amed… a good surprise!

After the white and thin sand of the beaches of Lombok, I arrive at the dark and stony beaches of Amed, on the east coast of Bali. In common they have the clear waters and the amazing aquatic life, with amazing colorful fishes and the less colorful but also impressive corals.

Rocky and dark, the beaches around Amed maybe don’t look very attractive at the first look, but the surrounding landscape is impressive with the Mount Angun, the highest point of the Bali island, at a very short distance, and with the Mount Batur behind, most of the times with the top surrounded by clouds, but that turns into a magic image at the sunset.

But this rocky shore, although it doesn’t offer a nice place for long walks along the sea, has the advantage of keeping the water clear and totally transparent, creating the perfect conditions for observing the corals, the fishes, the starfishes… most of them with bright and intense color, almost unreal.

Amed is definitively a dive spot, and this quiet village, not much more than a few houses along the road, with most of the accommodations along the seashore. The road winding along the coast to the south, where there are many more beaches, most of them still keeping the fishing as the core activity but where the number of resort and expensive accommodation is increasing.

Amed beach with Mount Angun at the sunset, Bali

Amed beach, Bali — Amed beach, nearby BarAcuda Bar… almost empty and away from the less clean area nearby the fishing boat of Amed village, Bali

But the quietness of the beach, in this time of the year between the end of the monsoon and the start of the high season, offer an almost empty beach, with warm and still waters and the show offer underwater by the aquatic life, easy to reach and with a lot of beauty… an unexpected surprise in this less travel coast of Bali!!!

Where to sleep in Amed:

Several options for all the budgets in Amed, where is easy to avoid the expensive resorts. Stay in Amed, even if you need to walk 10 minutes to the beach, make it easier to reach local food and some supermarkets and grocery shops.

Bucu Homestay (nearby BLD Diver shop). This place is not easy to find but you can go to the Pacha bar (an reggae bar on the main road) and there you’ll find the owner I Wayan of this family homestay. I Wayan can also give a lot of information and help you to plan your trip, as by shuttle services as by public transport, or even to arrange a boat trip to Gilis in fast boat. In low season a room with fan costs 100.000 Rp at Bucu Homestay (pronounce buchu), including breakfast that is served at Pacha Bar. The owner can also arrange a scooter for 50.000 Rp/day.

http://www.amedbucu.com/

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lovely room at Bucu Homestay. Amed, Bali

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Behind Pacha Bar (located on the main road) also have bungalows in a very nice traditional construction and with a mezzanine (150.000 Rp for a double but where there’s space for four people) and a very good dorm (100.000 Rp) with a/c, locker, solid bunk beds and quite same privacy, just next to the Pacha Bar.

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breakfast at Bucu Homestay... tasty but why always pancakes at Indonesia tourist breakfasts!?!?!? — breakfast at Bucu Homestay… tasty but why always pancakes at Indonesia tourist breakfasts!?!?!?

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Where to eat in Amed:

There are many options along the road from Amed to Jemeluk, but for this, you need a scooter, and any of this places stands up from the tourist-orientated menu.

But in Amed you can still find tasty local food with a local price.

Warung Man Pel (on the main road a bit after the bridge on the right side)… my favorite food! Usually is for take-away but there’s one table and you can eat there. Is open early in the morning but close before 11 a.m. Sometimes it opens again in the afternoon around 5 p.m…. sometimes don’t. A meal cost 10.000 Rp. Enak!!!
Warung Happy (on the main road nearby Sudi Homestay)… an old lady cooking the standard Indonesia menu. The portions are big and the food is spicy. The meals cost around 20.000 Rp.

The best food in Amed!!!! Enak!!!! but with a crazy schedule, opening early morning and closing before lunch time... sometimes open in the afternoon, sometimes don't!!! — The best food in Amed!!!! Enak!!!! but with a crazy schedule, opening early morning and closing before lunch time… sometimes open in the afternoon, sometimes don’t!!!

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Warung happy on the main road of Amed, opp to Pacha Bar... simple food. — Warung happy on the main road of Amed, opp to Pacha Bar… simple food.

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How to move around in Amed:

By foot you can go to the beach but is better to walk further south from the village, away from the fishing area to have a cleaner place. On foot you can reach many restaurants and small groceries shops with the basic things.

Everywhere else you need a scooter.

Schedules and prices of the shuttle from Amed to different destination in Bali

What to do in Amed:

Snorkeling is defectively the best if you are not in the diving scene. I found a nice pace for snorkeling in front of the BarAcuda bar, where you can get the snorkeling set for 000 Rp a day, or just ask for a discount if you just want it for one hour. You don’t need to go far to reach the corals.
Rent a scooter and drive along the coast, to south until Aas. You have nice views and can stop in one of the many beaches that you’ll find along the way. Is a ride of 15 kilometers that is not amazing but is nice to do.
Swim at the warm and quiet waters. The beach just in front of Amed isn’t clean, but you walk about 1.5 kilometers and you’ll find a nice place to swim, almost empty nearby Kembali Beach Bungalows and Diver’s Café Amed. Walking along the road, parallel to the shore, isn’t easy to find the entrance to the beach, as the construction didn’t leave much space to reach the shore, but you can cross the resorts and hotel area without problem.

How to go from Gili to Amed (Bali) by public transport

It takes all day… and you can’t really control the length of the trip, as the ferry boat takes more than 4 hours and the bemos usually departure when they have more than three people.

From Gili Meno to Amed… step by step:

Boat from Gili Meno to Bangsal, departure at 8 a.m. (but is better arrive earlier as the boat leave as soon as it gets full) and costs 14.000 Rp and the trip takes 25 minutes.
At Bangsal you need to walkway from the pier avoiding the touts that will try to sell you something. You need to walk 1.2 kilometers until Pemenang where the bemos wait. If it’s too much to walk for you can get a cimodo or an ojek (moto-taxi).
The bemo from Pemenang to Mataram costs 20.000 Rp and takes around 1 hour. Tell the driver that you are going to Lembar and he will drop you nearby Pasar Cakranegara, on the Jalan AA. Gde Ngurah.
Then you need to spot a bemo that will be waiting on the left side of Jalan AA. Gde Ngurah (between the intersection with Jl Tumoang and Jl Chairil Anwar, not far from an Alfamart supermarket).
The bemo from Mataram to Lembar cost 20.000 Rp and it took 45 minutes and dropped me at the harbor entrance.
At Lembar harbor go straight to the ticket counter located on the right side. Public ferry Padangbai (Bali) cost 40.000 Rp. The ferryboats run 24 hours but don’t have a fix schedules and all depend on the time they need to fill the boat with trucks, cars and motorbikes. The ferry trip takes around 4.30 hours but can be more.
If you arrive during the day to Padangbai you can probably can find bemos that drive along the north coast (Candidasa, Amlapura and further north…) passing by Culik (pronounces Chulik). According to the information that I obtain you need two bemos as they don’t drive far distances.
I arrive around 7 p.m. (due to works at the pier of Padangbai that make the boat wait 1.5 hours offshore) so there were no bemos just the usual touts pushing me to a taxi for 300.000 to Amed. Think you can bargain up to 200.000 Rp but, as I was alone and still was too much.
So I got an ojek (moto-taxi) to Amed for 100.000 Rp… the ride took 1.5 hours… is a long 45 kilometers ride to do with a backpack on a motorbike!!!

Total time: 13 hours (5:45 hours in the ferry due to works at the Padangbai pier)

Total costs: 194.000 Rp (if you arrive during the afternoon you can use one of the bemos waiting at the pier, and save the hard trip by ojek)

The alternative to the public transport is the fast boat from Gilis to Amed, that takes 45 minutes and costs minimum 450.000 Rp… from Amed to Gilis you can get a fast-boat for 250.000 Rp.

Food:

There’s a masakan padang eatery at Lembar, on the left side a few meters before the ticket counter. Or you can get food and water from the vendors that hang around the pier.

Inside the ferry, you can have cookies, snacks, instant soup…

Itinerary:

Public ferry from Bali (Pandangbai) to Lombok (Lembar)
Kuta: 3 days
Tetebatu: 2 days
Mataram: 1 day
Gili Air: 2 days
Gili Meno: 4 days
Trip from Gili Meno to Lembar, and then Bali (from Gili to Amed) by public transport

Costs:

13 €/day

… considering traveling solo, eating just local food, no a/c rooms, sometimes dorms, travel by public transport as far as possible, no alcohol and no soft drinks, making my own laundry and walking a lot on foot. Shopping and souvenirs are also not included, as well health expenses and communications (SIM card, mobile, telephone, internet…).

Costs in Lombok:

room (fan): minimum 100.000 Rp up to 130.000 Rp (one person)
meal: less than 20.000 Rp (local food, vegetarian meals, the breakfast was almost always included)
rent a scooter: 50.000 Rp/day
a litre of petrol: 10.000 Rp
snorkeling: 50.000 Rp/day (just gear)
bemos: around 1.000 Rp per kilometer
ojek: 10 km cost around 15.000 Rp (but the price of the ojek depends on your bargain skills and the needs of the driver, weather, time of the day…)

Note 1: in general the cost at Gilis are higher than Lombok, but just at Gili Air, I notice this. The Gili Meno is still quite cheap for food and with the same prices for accommodation.

Note 2: this trip was made in March/April 2017, which still is considered low season, when the prices of the accommodation could be bargain.

Gili Meno… what a rest!!!

Definitively, Gili Meno is the most laidback island of the Gili group and the one where I feel the connection with the beach, the sea and with the rural lifestyle that still occupies the interior of the island, were cows, goats and chickens overtake the number of inhabitants.

Despite the rain from the end of the monsoon that left a strong print during the time spent at Gili Air, the days at Gili Meno were mainly sunny, with a gentle breeze and a full moon.

Gili Meno has a privileged position between the big Gili Trawangan, best known as Gili T, and the small Gili Air. From the east coast of the island, you can see the small flat Gili Air with it tinny beaches with the impressive mountains of Lombok behind, covered by dense vegetation with the top frequently wrapped in thick clouds of the end of the monsoon.

From Gili Meno west coast, despite the far distance is possible to see the contours of Mount Agung, the highest mountain of Bali, behind the small hills of Gili T, with this landscape getting a special twist at the sunset.

Lots of nature, not many resorts, restaurants, bars or nightlife, and with a seashore still with many natural and empty spaces make this island the more pleasant one, where you can find a strong connection with nature, an easy going rural lifestyle and where you interact with local people, that here look much happier and smiley than in Gili Air.

The quietness of the island is broken by the callings for prayers that come from the mosque several times a day, filling the air with a melody that in the beginning sounds strange and misplaced but that after a few days serves as a reference in a place where is easy to lost the perception of the hours and of the days…

Where to sleep at Gili Meno:

Gili Gila… that means “crazy gili” and in fact that a bit of craziness in this project. A hostel located in the center of the island, with dorms and rooms, build in a creative and very original way, with a lot of places to chill and socialize. But this craziness extends to the environment with a lot of party going on that makes difficult to sleep without good earplugs… a heavy contrast with the quietness of the island.

The dorms cost 100.000 Rp, including breakfast that is only pancakes. Water refill, tea and coffee are available for free all day. You better bring your own padlock and towel otherwise you need to “rent” at the reception. Has Gili Gila open recently the wi-fi is not working yet.

You can go snorkeling with the guys of the hostel and rent part of the gear there.

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Where to eat at Gili Meno:

At Gili Meno is still easy to find local food with local prices, in small eateries and family style warungs located along the roads that cross the island. And even at some of the restaurant nearby the beach is still possible to find reasonable prices, like the Yaya Warung.

Nearby Gili Gila, the Rizkey Warung Makan, with delicious and cheap food, cooked by a super smiley lady. Beyond the standard Indonesia menu, you can also find Sasak food as Urap-Urap (mix of vegetables with grated coconut) and the Olah-Olah (mix of vegetables with a spicy coconut sauce).

Urap-Urap one of the Sarak specialities. Gili Meno

Rizkey Warung Makan... good food including Sasak specialities — Rizkey Warung Makan… good food including Sasak specialities

What to do in Gili Meno:

Snorkeling (the west coast of the island offer nice places with corals and many colorful fishes). You need to rent the gear (50.000 Rp a day).
Walk around the island… it’s not more than 5 kilometers. The south part of the island is a bit dry and without much shade.
Swim in the clear blue waters of Gili Meno. The best place is the north part of the island, without many resorts yet, and with very still waters and with some natural shade all day. The east seashore is littered with plastics.
Get lost on the narrow roads that cross the island and watch the countryside lifestyle with cows, goats and chickens a bit everywhere.
Visit the salt lake.
Watch the sunrise and the sunset.

How to move from Gili Meno to Lombok (Bangsal):

There public boats to Bangsal three times a day: 8:00, 14:00 and 15:15… and the ticket cost 14.000 Rp and the trip takes 25 minutes.

Schedule and prices from the boat from Gili Meno to Bangsal

How to go from Gili Meno to Gili Air:

They’re a hopping island service boat, from the public company (Koperasi Angkutan Laut Karya Bahari) that links the three Gilis.

From Gili Meno to Gili Air the ticket cost you 35.000 Rp, and there are boats at 9:50, 16:20. The trip from Gili Meno to Gili Air takes about 10 minutes.

If you are on a very short budget and have plenty of time, you can take the boat back to Bangsal (12.000 Rp) and then another boat to Gili Air (14.000 Rp+2.500 Rp). I didn’t try this option that just saves you 6.500 Rp but maybe takes all day 🙂

Gili Air… in search of quietness

The outline of the mountains surrounding the Bangsal harbor are blurring as the rain becomes more intense, a haze seems to dissolve the landscape. Under a thick cap of clouds the small boat departure from the big island to the Gilis, a group of three very small islands located on the northwest coast of Lombok.

The closest and the smallest one is Gili Air, next is distance and size is Gili Meno, and then is Gili Trawangan, the biggest and further island of the Gili group, and the most famous for its nightlife and party lifestyle… attracting the majority of the visitors as also the local population.

The first stop was the Gili Air. This small piece of sand with less than 5 square kilometers have more than 200 accommodation, and almost all the land is already occupied, without almost any rural activity, and with just a few empty spaces. The beach is all around the island (except the pier area that is a bit dump) with more or less 5 kilometers long, but is an always a narrow stretch of sand.

Is a nice place to stay a couple of days, away from urban agitation, is a place without cars or motorbikes, and where the most common way of moving around is by cimodo, the local name for horse carts… or just walk or cycle, as the distances are quite small.

How strange is to be at a beach that has the convex shape?!?!? Usually, the beaches forms a bay or are along a straight coast line, but here, with such a small island the beach always ends behind the bend… looks like the beach is inside out 🙂

Where to sleep in Gili Air:

As usually everything is more expensive on the island, a rule that you can apply worldwide, I think! And Gilis are not an exception.

There a hundred of accommodations in Gili Air, most of them Bungalows, but also resorts, homestays and hostels… but I couldn’t find a place to sleep for less than 130.000 Rp… in low season and after a bargain and without breakfast.

I stayed at Dwi Inn on the north part of the island. A nice place with some rooms around a garden, located inland about 5 minutes walking from the beach… but without atmosphere!!

Where to eat local food at with a cheap price at Gili Air:

Near the pier the WR Bunda, a local grocery shop and eatery, sell nasi campur, in a pack, for 15.000 Rp.

Along the “main” road that goes from the pier to the north of the island you can find small groceries shops that sell fruit and sometimes food. There are small warungs along the many streets, sometimes quite hidden and without a sign, that are more focus on local population but that will be glad to serve you an unpretentious meal.

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Local food with local prices, near the pier. Gili Air

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"Nasi campur" from the warung near the pier. Gili Air — “Nasi campur” from the warung near the pier. Gili Air

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If you want to go for a treat, I strongly recommend the Warung Padang Sumatra, on the “main” road… white (10.000 Rp) or brown rice (20.000 Rp), and then you add vegetables, tempeh or tofu (10.000 Rp each portion), eggs (15.000 Rp) or meat, fish or prawns. Depending on your appetite, a meal will cost you around 50.000 to 60.000 Rp… three times more that the local masakan padang eateries but very delicious food!

Padang Sumatra... delicious food for a treat on a rainy day! Gili Air — Padang Sumatra… delicious food for a treat on a rainy day! Gili Air

How to move around in Gili Air:

The island is small enough to be done on foot, but renting a bicycle is very popular.

There are no motor vehicles in the island, so if you travel with heavy luggage you can rent the service of the horse cart, locally called cimodos, and are parked nearby the pier.

cimodos waiting nearby the pier at Gili Air

How to go from Gili Air to Gili Meno:

They’re a hopping island service boat, from the public company (Koperasi Angkutan Laut Karya Bahari) that links the three Gilis.

From Gili Air to Gili Meno the ticket cost you 35.000 Rp, and there are boats at 8.30 and another at 15.00. The trip from Gili Air to Gili Meno takes about 10 minutes.

If you are on a very short budget and have plenty of time, you can take the boat back to Bangsal (12.000 Rp) and then another boat to Gili Meno (14.000 Rp + 2.500 Rp). I didn’t try this option that just saves you 6.500 Rp and maybe it will take you all day 🙂

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How to go from Gili Air to Bangsal:

There are public boats all day that departure when are full (40 passengers)… the ticket is 12.000 Rp and the trip takes about 15 minutes.

Schedules and prices from the boat from Gili Air to Bangal and the other Gilis

How to go from Lombok to Gilis by public transport

You probably gonna need to take two bemos and one boat... no worries… just go with plenty of time and no stress! It will work… but is better to start early morning, about 7:30 am, because you’ll just arrive to Amed in the evening.

How to go from Mataram to Bangsal by public transport:

If your accommodation in Mataram is at Cakraneagara neighbourhood you just need to wait at Jalan Panca Usaha for a bemo (yellow). And you don’t need to go to Mandalika Terminal to catch it.

You must ask the driver to drop you at the crossroad between Jalan Jendral Sudirman and Jalan Dr.Wahidin. The area is called Puri Lestari, but as most of the bemo drivers don’t speak English just ask for “Bangsal” and they probably will drop you nearby the junction and point you the next bemo that will be waiting there for passengers.

The second bemo (white or black) will take you to Pemenang; from here you need to walk to reach the pier. You can also get an ojek (moto-taxi) or a horse cart… both will be waiting for you at the place where the bemos stop.

The trip cost 25.000 Rp in total and takes 2 hours… most hotels can arrange a shuttle for you for 75.000 Rp.

Bemo from Jalan Panca Usaha to Puri Lestari: 5.000 Rp (takes around 30 minutes, but maybe you need to wait a while for a bemo that goes on that way… I start at 8 a.m. and just wait around 10 minutes).
Bemo from Puri Lestari to Pemenang: 20.000 Rp (it takes about 1 hour).
From Pemenang you can walk to the Bangsal pier: around 1.4 km.

The trip between Mataram and Pemenang is quite nice, with the road passing trough a hilly area, covered by thick jungle, where hundreds of monkey, gray fur and a kind of fluffy mustaches, wait on the road rails for some food drop by the cars and motorbikes that pass by.

Bemo from Jalan Panca Usaha to Puri Lestari: 5.000 Rp

Bemo from Puri Lestari to Pemenang: 20.000 Rp

road from Mataram to Bangsal that pass by the Monkey forest where grey monkey wait for food on the road side — road from Mataram to Bangsal that pass by the Monkey forest where gray monkey wait for food on the road side

From Mataram to Gilis_DSC_4098 — From Pemenang you can walk to Bangsal pier or take a ojek (moto-taxi) or a cimodo (horse cart)

Public Boat to Gili Air:

If you are going to Gili Air by public boat (identified by the name Koperasi Angkutan Laut Karya Bahari) you must turn right until you find a small ticket counter behind a big building where the private companies sell their tickets.

Don’t ask informations to people hanging around the pier, as most of them will try to push you to one of the private boats, that are faster but much more expensive. For informations, you can go to the main ticket counter, inside the big building located on your left as you enter the harbour area.

The public boat doesn’t have a fixed schedule and just departure when is full, which mean 40 passengers.

I arrive around 11 a.m., and was one of the first on the list, but it took just 30 minutes to fill the boat. There isn’t a pier, so you need to put wet your feet to reach the boat. The same applies to when you arrive at the island.

The trip from Bangsal to Gili Air takes 15 to 20 minutes.

From Mataram to Gilis_DSC_4103 — Departure area for Gili Air at Bangsal

From Mataram to Gilis_DSC_4107 — Public boat from Lombok to the Gilis

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From Mataram to Gilis_IMG_2764 — Price of the trip from Bangsal to the three Gili

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From Mataram to Gilis_IMG_2765 — for any of the Gilis is charges a extra fee for foreigners: 2.500 Rp

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other option to go to Gilis with schedules and prices — other options to go to Gilis with schedules and prices

How to go from Gili Air to Gili Meno:

They’re a hopping island service boat, from the public company (Koperasi Angkutan Laut Karya Bahari) that links the three Gilis.

From Gili Air to Gili Meno the ticket cost you 35.000 Rp, and there are boats at 8.30 and another at 15.00. The trip from Gili Air to Gili Meno takes about 10 minutes.

If you are on a very short budget and have plenty of time, you can take the boat back to Bangsal (12.000 Rp) and then another boat to Gili Meno (14.000 Rp+2.500 Rp). I didn’t try this option that just saves you 6.500 Rp and probably takes you all day 🙁

From Mataram to Gilis_IMG_2771 — Schedule and prices of the boats that departure from Gili Air

From Mataram to Gilis_IMG_2774 — Hooping service that link the three Gili. 35.000 Rp from Gili Air to Gili Meno

How to go from Gili Meno to Bangsal (Lombok):

There public boats to Bangsal three times a day: 8:00, 14:00 and 15:15… and the ticket cost 14.000 Rp.

You should arrive at least 30 minutes before the schedule, as the boat departure as soon as it’s full. Mine start 10 minuts before.

The trip from Gili Meno to Bangsal takes 25 minutes.

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From Mataram to Gilis_IMG_2782 — Schedule and price of the public boats from Gili Meno to Bangsal (Lombok)

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From Mataram to Gilis_IMG_2781 — Schedule and price of the public boats from Gili Meno to Bangsal (Lombok)

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Mataram… what am I doing here?!?!?

For what I saw during the day spent at Mataram, the capital of Lombok, doesn’t show any reason to stop here (except for the chance to stay at the lovely Oka and Son Guesthouse).

Usually what stand up in a city are the markets, the old part and some temples… here there’s not properly a center, with the city spreading along wide and busy avenues, that run more or less parallel to each others orientated east to west, with some quiet small streets in between, creating a grid, that make the orientation in Mataram easy.

Maybe the most interesting area is nearby the sea, around Taman Ampenan Sakaraja with some small buildings, a kind of shop houses that are a clear influence of the Chinese traders… but still far from be a charming or an appealing place.

Walking further west, following the calling for the sea, we face a poor area of the city, nearby Pantai Ampenan, a king of slum where the friendly smiles and the “hallo” that come from everywhere cannot hide the depressive appearance of the place, where the fishing is still an important activity while the kids play in the waves that bring the plastic that accumulates at the shore.

Nearby, the Pasar Kekon Roek, located in a gloomy and characterless building has a similar atmosphere, with the vendors suffering from a grey lethargy. But early morning the market is vibrating with activity with the usual movements of people and the porters. The line of horse carts (locally called cidomo) are an unexpected image in the urban landscape, bit still very popular for short distances.
The Pasar Tradisional Cakraneagara, one of the biggest market in Mataram, is far from be attractive without many interesting things for a visitor to see or buy… even the fruits and vegetable area shows oppressive, being better just buy outside along the Jalan Banjaran Sari.

But not all is bad in Mataram… in fact, walking along the small streets we can see many influence of the Balinese arquitectura, in temples and houses, that are the result of the Balinese kingdom, that extended it’s presence to the west part of Lombok, before the Dutch invasion. As a result there’s a small group of Hindu community in a island where the population is 87% Muslim.

Sweets at Pasar Kekon Roek, Mataram, Lombok

Where to sleep in Mataram:

The best area to find a quiet and affordable place to sleep is around Cakranegara (pronouce chakranegára), between the Cakranegara market and the Mataram Mall.

The hotel Viktor, with his three houses located at the same street (Jalan Abumanyu) is a very popular option, with nice and clean rooms. The breakfast is very poor, bread with chocolate, boiled egg and coffee.

The price for a room with fan, and bathroom inside (cold shower), cost 120.000 Rp (no chance to bargain). A room with ac is 170.000 Rp. The breakfast is included and water, tea and coffee are free and available all day.

The staff is ok, but will not help you in nothing about moving around or how to go to your next destination, pushing you always to “shuttle buses”, “tour packs” or a taxi!!!

The wi-fi hasn’t a good connection.

But walking around this area there are more options, and one place that has character and look to me very cozy is located nearby: Oka and Son Guesthouse (not to mistake with the next door called Oka homestay). Very nice place with the room facing a garden, build in Balinese style, and run by a super friendly couple. The rooms start in 150.000 Rp, and have a good wi-fi connection… and here is guaranteed that you have all the information you need about how to move around by public transportation, and no tout will show up trying to push you to expensive options. A place with a good vibe and a happy dog 🙂

Oka and Son Guesthouse

Phone: 0819-1600-3637

Address: Jalan Rapatmaja, Cilinaya, Cakranegara, Mataram

Oka and son Guesthouse (Jalan Rapatmaja, Cakranegara). Mataram, Lombok

Where to eat in Mataram:

Nearby Pasar Cakraneagara, along Jalan Tumpang Sari there are several options of local food, as also some street-food. The food area inside the Pasar Cakraneagara is far from being attractive.

At the Pasar Kekon Roek you can also get some snacks and sweets.

On the small streets between Jalan Selaparang and Jalan Tumpang Sari there are also small eateries very basic and very cheap. At the Jalan Banjaran Sari there is a good place to look for masakan padang food.

How to move around in Mataram:

Along Jalan Selaparang and Jalan Tumpang Sari you can find many bemos during the day, easy to identify by the yellow color, as many of them run from the Mandalika Bus terminal to Pasar Kekon Roek.

There must be a fix price for a ride, as everyone give the exact amount of money to the driver, but for foreigners you must negotiate the price before get inside the bemo. A ride inside Mataram shouldn’t cost more than 5.000 Rp.

Ojek (moto-taxis) that gather a bit everywhere in Mataram streets but are easily found nearby the markets. Mataram, Lombok

Hose cart, locally called "cidomo" are still a common way to move around the city, specially for shot distances, and that are easy to find nearby the markets area. Mataram, Lombok — Hose cart, locally called “cidomo” are still a common way to move around the city, specially for shot distances, and that are easy to find nearby the markets area. Mataram, Lombok

ATMs and Money exchange in Mataram:

There are a few moneychangers in the city, but all far away from the Cakraneagara area, some of them with appealing rates, but to reach there you need a bemo.

So if you are at a walking distance from the Pasar Cakraneagara, the best option is to go to one of the goldsmiths (took emas) shops on the crossroad of Jalan Sutra Hasanudin with Jalan Selaparang. More or less they all have the same rate, but at my visit I could get a bit more for my euros at Toko Emas Melati.

There are a few moneychangers in Mataram, but the easiest way (and the most central) is to go to one of the Goldsmiths (Toko Emas in bahasa) located nearby the Pasar Chakranengara. Mataram, Lombok — There are a few moneychangers in Mataram, but the easiest way (and the most central) is to go to one of the Goldsmiths (Toko Emas in bahasa) located on crossroad of Jalan Sutra Hasanudin with Jalan Selaparang. Mataram, Lombok

Tetebatu and the Sasak wedding

Ducks, flying in a group with characteristic flapping wings, sending funny chirps that leave a subtle trace in the morning fresh air, returning again, moments before the sun disappears in the horizon.

Tetebatu, on the way from the sea to the top of Rinjani volcano, is a perfect place to cultivate rice, with its smooth slopes facing south. The thick clouds that frequently hide the top of Rinjani Mountain, the highest point in Lombok, leave behind a huge quantity of rain that goes down the hill until flood the rice terraces. A short walk along the rice fields offer nice views to the Rinjani volcano, but that are quickly hidden by the clouds that arrive a few hours after the sunrise and stay there during the rest of the day.

The days run smooth in Tetebatu, marked by the chanting of prayers that come out from the mosques that are a bit everywhere around the village and even at small settlements spread around. The sound of the calling for prayers, five times a day, fill the air in the Tetebatu village, but the Arabic words don’t seem to match with the tropical landscape of rice fields and coconut trees.

In Tetebatu, as also other places in the countryside of center and East Lombok, still keep alive the Sasak culture and traditions, that despite the connection and the influence of the Balinese culture, differ mainly by being strongly based on the Muslim religion.

Nowadays what pops up from the Sasak culture is the music, the weaving patterns of the sarongs, the food where the coconut is a strong presence, and the Sasak language, that is spoken by all the population, with the Bahasa used to communicate mainly with people from other islands and for official proposes, as the Sasak just exist in the oral version.

Lombok_Tetebatu_DSC_3934 — Tetebatu. Lombok

Lombok_Tetebatu_DSC_3966 — Tetebatu. Lombok

Lombok_Tetebatu_Sasak_DSC_3885 — Tetebatu, Lombok

Lombok_Tetebatu_DSC_3981 — Tetebatu. Lombok

Lombok_Tetebatu_DSC_3975 — Tetebatu. Lombok

Lombok_Tetebatu_DSC_3982 — sarong with local patterns. Tetebatu. Lombok

Lombok_Tetebatu_DSC_3993 — View of the Rinjani Volcano, during a clear moment without clouds early morning. Tetebatu. Lombok

But his routine was suddenly broken by the parade of a Sasak wedding that filled Tetebatu main road, adding bright colors to the green scenario and spreading the melodious coming out from drums, bamboo xylophones, gongs and metal plates of the gamelan orchestra, that plays and perform dancing during the wedding parade.

Despite the majority of the population in Lombok being Muslim, the wedding parade shows a lot of the Balinese culture and influence, that pops up in the guest outfit, with many women without the Muslim hijab, dressing the Balinese kebaya, and the men with double sarongs and the udeng around the head. Also, the music and the dances performed during the parade that crosses the village is a clear influence from the neighbor Hindu island.

Where to sleep in Tetebatu:

There are many accommodations in Tetebatu. Most of them are located on the road that leaves from the center of the village to East, on the way to Kemang Kuning. The prices are around 150.000 Rp, but during the low season, you can get a lower price. The Kemang Kuning Cottages have a room for 100.000 Rp but is a bit far out from the village, and just behind a mosque… and the first calling for prayers is around 4.30 in the morning.

I stay at Matra Bungalows. There a three different type of accommodation here, and the cheapest one is a small hut with a single room and bathroom, for 100.000 Rp (low season) including breakfast (coffee, fruits and pancake). Matra Bungalows is a nice place to chill with a good vibe and a friendly and helpful staff that can help to move around, by hiring a guide or rent a scooter.

The wi-fi connection is very poor, here as in almost all the accommodations around…

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Matra Bungalows. Tetebatu. Lombok. Contact

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breakfast at Matra Bungalows... there's also a menu that include Sasak specialities that are delicious here. Tetebatu. Lombok — breakfast at Matra Bungalows… there’s also a menu that include Sasak specialities that are delicious here. Tetebatu. Lombok

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Where to eat in Tetebatu:

There is only one eatery at the center of Tetebatu, is called Warung Sasak, serving the usual Indonesia food as also some of the typical Sasak food. I have a huge and tasty meal of Nasi Campur (pronounces champur) with fry tempeh and fry tofu for 20.000 Rp.

But almost all the guesthouse or homestays have a restaurant and there are many options, some with nice views. The Matra Bungalows also serve food, including the Sasak traditional food, delicious and freshly made, like the Urap-Urap (mix of vegetables with grated coconut) and the Olah-Olah (mix of vegetables with a spicy coconut sauce).

How to move around Tetebatu:

On foot you can see a lot, walking through the rice fields, have nice views to the Gunung Rinjani (volcano and the highest point of Lombok), passing by small settlements with the rural lifestyle and even reach the Monkey Forest… and if you are lucky maybe see the black monkeys!

But to visit nearby villages, famous for handicrafts you need to rent a scooter or a guided tour.

ATMs and money exchangers in Tetebatu:

There is no ATM or money exchanger at Tetebatu.

The nearest ATM is at Kotaraja.

How to go from Tetebatu to Mataram:

Ojek from Tetebatu to Terara: 15.000 Rp

Bus from Terara to Mataram (stops at Mandalika Terminal): 20.000 Rp

Bemo from Mandalika Terminal to Chakra Negara area: 5.000 Rp…. think I pay too much because most of the people paid around 2.000 Rp…. but not sure!

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Where to sleep in Amed:

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Itinerary:

Costs:

13 €/day

Costs in Lombok:

Where to sleep at Gili Meno:

Where to eat at Gili Meno:

What to do in Gili Meno:

How to move from Gili Meno to Lombok (Bangsal):

How to go from Gili Meno to Gili Air:

Where to sleep in Gili Air:

Where to eat local food at with a cheap price at Gili Air:

How to move around in Gili Air:

How to go from Gili Air to Gili Meno:

How to go from Gili Air to Bangsal:

How to go from Mataram to Bangsal by public transport:

Public Boat to Gili Air:

How to go from Gili Air to Gili Meno:

How to go from Gili Meno to Bangsal (Lombok):

Where to sleep in Mataram:

Where to eat in Mataram:

How to move around in Mataram:

ATMs and Money exchange in Mataram:

Where to sleep in Tetebatu:

Where to eat in Tetebatu:

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ATMs and money exchangers in Tetebatu:

How to go from Tetebatu to Mataram:

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