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Stepping Out Of Babylon

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Stepping out of Babylon

Turkish food… a vegetarian approach!

At the first days words like borek, pide, dondurma, donner, baklava, lokum, gozleme, ayran… sound strange and confusing, but gradually they will become associated with delicious flavors, tasty meals and sweet pastries.

Definitely the Turkish cuisine is far from be vegetarian “friendly” as most of the dishes are dominated by meat, with the smell of the kebab, grilled minced meat served in bread, spreading thought the streets… but with it isn’t so difficult as it look like at the first sight, offering a wide range of vegetarian options  and after two weeks the Turkish cuisine left a delicious memory!!!

But the vast territory of Turkey, from the Mediterranean to the Black Sea, from Europe to Asia, hosting various ethnic groups and absorbing influences of different empires that have passed here, result in a rich and diverse gastronomy, where a short time cannot do justice.

The Kuru Fasulye, one of the few traditional Turkish dishes that are vegetarian, made with bean stewed in slightly spicy sauce and served with rice. Often yogurt serves as a side dish at Turkish meals. In a country where alcohol is not very frequent, the yran is usual presence at meals; a drink made of fermented milk with a taste similar to yogurt that sometimes can have a salty taste. It is sold in pack in supermarkets and shops but in traditional restaurants comes in vats where the yran circulates and is kept fresh, bringing soft foam when it is served.

Dairy products are a strong presence in Turkish cuisine, such as yogurt and yran, but is the cheese that stands out, not only by the wide variety of flavours, textures and shapes.

The cheese is traditionally served for breakfast, as well as the olives, which are available in a wide variety.

The borek is also consumed in the morning, but can be found throughout the day at shops that typically engaged in the production and sale of snacks, like borek and pide, a kind of pizza based on a single ingredient: beef, spinach, cheese …

The borek consists of a succession of filo dough layers, stuffed with cheese, forming a roll that is cooked in the oven. Although delicious, this option is quite greasy. Another variant is a borek is similar to lasagna layers, piled on a tray and stuffed with salty cheese, or sometimes spinach or meat.

The borek as the pide were the best options in terms of light meals for vegetarians in Turkey. However, there are many restaurants, especially in Istanbul, serving meals ready made with a large diversity of food, where is always possible to have a meal based on a combination of different dishes.

Çorbası cannot be unnoticed: a traditional soup, which is available at most of the restaurants. There some places specialised in this type of meal that is always served with bread. The most common is the lentil soup, which can present different aspects of the orange to more brown tones, depending on the type of lentil used.

The gozleme is a similar to a thicker crepe, stuffed with cheese, and sometimes spinach or meat. It is a bit all over the place and can serve as a meal or as a snack between meals. Made traditionally in a metal plate heated by fire, but that can also be cooked in a frying pan.

Sweets….

Pastries in Turkish, Pastanesi, are one of the first things that catch the eye upon arrival in Istanbul, that also selling bread but focused mainly on sweets from cakes, cookies, puddings… and the famous baklava: sweet made with filo dough, soaked in a sugar syrup or honey and stuffed with different kinds of nuts like almonds, pistachio and walnuts. Also popular is the lokum, sweet with a texture that resembles gelatine but consistent, which takes the form of rolls that are trim and covered with sugar powder. No doubt that honey and nuts are a common dominator the Turkish pastry, which shows elaborate and intense.

the amazing turkish bread!

As all over the world, the bread plays an important rule in Turkish gastronomy, presented in many different forms, from rings, to flattened rolls of different thickness, loafs… in a great variety and richness of flavors.

The most popular, the simit, and sell in the Istanbul streets, has a shape of a ring with sesame or sunflower seeds on top.

tea or coffee?!?!?

Being a vast country with a great mix of cultures, Turkey, offers a wide variety of food that was not possible to know in such a short travel time. Yet topic on Turkish cuisine cannot be complete without reference to coffee and tea.

The traditional Turkish coffee, resulting from a very fine grinding to which is added boiling water and then is taken to the fire, but without letting the mixture to boil. Is served in small cups and drink slowly savoring the smooth coffee taste. In the bottom of the cup, are the dregs, forming a thick, dark paste, which second tradition can reveal the “secrets” of the future; this requires turning the cup on the saucer and let the coffee remains cool down and trickle, leaving a trail in the cup which is then interpreted by who is instructed in this “science”.

But it’s the tea, here called chai, that is definitively elected as national drink and is drunk in the morning as well as throughout the day… as justification for a break in the working day, for a gathering of friends, a pause to relax.

And here in Turkey we can even speak of the tea cult, considering the way it is prepared and served, always in small glass cups. Like other countries such as Russia and Iran, the preparation of tea is often made in somovar consisting of a container placed over the fire, to heat the water until boiling; on top of samovar is placed a pot, where the tea is prepared, mixing the leaves with boiling water, were must rest for a few minutes. A small amount of this tea is poured into the cups, and then added hot water, which is kept warm in somovar base.

Definitively Turkish gastronomy is rich, with a wide variety of ingredients, delicious bread and amazing sweets.

 

uma das muitas variantes da baklava, um doce feito com massa filo, embebida num xarope de açúcar ou mel e recheada com diverso tipos de frutos secos como amêndoa, pistácio e nozes
one of the many variants of baklava, a sweet made with filo dough, soaked in sugar syrup or honey and stuffed with different kinds of nuts like almonds, pistachio and walnuts

baklava, numa outra variante recheada de pistácio
baklava, stuffed in another variant of pistachio

Hafiz Mustafa, uma loja centenária de 1864, especializada em baklava
Hafiz Mustafa, a century-old store in 1864 at the center of Istanbul, specialized in baklava and Lukum

Cheese is a constant presence in the Turkish cuisine, lying in dozens of variants
Cheese is a constant presence in the Turkish cuisine, lying in dozens of variants

 

Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, marca de café que é uma referência na Turquia; pode ser encontrada em supermercados um pouco por todo o país, mas é em Istanbul, junto ao Spice Bazar que se encontra uma loja onde se faz a moagem e a embalagem do café, numa pequena área onde trabalham freneticamente uma dúzia de empregados tentando atender as dezenas de pessoas que constantemente fazem fila junto às duas janelas que servem de balção de venda
Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, coffee brand that is a reference in Turkey; can be found in supermarkets all over the country, but is in Istanbul, near the Spice Bazaar which is a store where you do the grinding and packaging of coffee, a small area where they work frantically a dozen employees trying to meet dozens of people who constantly line up next to two windows

casa de chá em Erzurum, onde o samovar ocupa o centro da mesa e de onde é servido o chá.
Traditional tea-shop in Erzurum, where the samovar occupies the center of the table and where they served tea

forma tradicional de cozinhar o gozleme, numa chapa metálica sobre fogo
traditional way of cooking gozleme, on a metal plate over the fire

gozleme recheado de queijo e espinafres
gozleme stuffed with cheese and spinach

Kuru Fasulye um prato tradicional, um dos poucos pratos que é vegetariano
Kuru fasulye a traditional dish, one of the few traditional Turkish dishes that are vegetarian: beans served with rice, yogurt and cabbage pickle.

lokum
Lokum
Pastanesi, que vende pão e pastelaria
Attractive pastries, “pastanesi” in Turkish, with delicious cakes, cookies, pudings and where you can also find a big variety of bread.

pide, uma espécie de pizza de forma oval que pode ser recheada com queijo, espinafres, ovo e carne
pide, a kind of oval shaped pizza that can be stuffed with cheese, spinach, egg and meat

sütlaç (rice pudding) um pudim à base de leite com arroz, cozinhado no forno e servido com topping de pistácio e amêndoa. Encontra-se nas pastelarias e lojas de doces mas este foi “descoberto” num vendedor ambulante junta a Galata Tower em Instanbul
sütlaç (rice pudding) milk based pudding with rice, cooked in the oven and served with pistachio and almond topping. It is found in bakeries and candy stores but this was “discovered” a street vendor joins the Galata Tower in Istanbul

yran, bebida à base de leite fermentado, com sabor semelhante a iogurte e que pode ser por vezes ter um paladar salgado
Yran drink made with fermented milk, with a yogurt flavour and salted

Turkish Coffee servido em pequenas chávenas
Turkish Coffee serve in small cups

simit, um dos pães mais populares na Turquia
Simit, one of the most popular breads in Turkey, taty and with a good price that can be found in bakeries as also in the streets of Istanbul

pequeno-almoço Turco onde pão, tomate, azeitonas, pepino, ovos, e uma grande variedade de queijos estão sempre presentes. A isto acrescenta-se compotas e mel
Turkish breakfast where bread, tomato, olives, cucumber, eggs, and a variety of cheeses are always present; to this it added jam and honey

Through Cappadocia

The surrounding region to the village of Goreme, concentrate most of the tourist attractions that make the famous Cappadocia: its arid landscapes, rocks sculpted by erosion, the underground cities, castles, monasteries and churches built in the rocks. The presence of Greek communities in this region has left examples of the Orthodox Christian religion in churches and monasteries, as is the house of the village of Mustafapasa.

The area is vast and required at least two days to visit the most popular sites.

One of the routes, at north of Goreme: pass by the Love Valley, including Goreme Open Air Museam, Çavusin, Zelve, Urgup, Uçhisar. One can also visit Mustafapasa and Cemil Monastery.

Zelve stands out for its castle, much like that of Uçhisar, but with the attraction of being able to find a traditional house dug into the rock, inhabited by a friendly couple, who apart to show the interior of the housing serves a light meal consisting of gozleme, ayran, and some vegetables picked from the garden just before serving.

Mustafapasa, a small, quiet village, proved to be a nice place to rest in this intense itinerary, offering a number of monasteries built during the presence of Greek Orthodox in this region, especially the elaborate masonry work in churches and village buildings.

The Cemil Monastery a bit out of the popular rout, has at the entrance a friendly and helpful guard, that speaking reasonable English shown desirous of a chat to break the monotony of being away from everything only nagging wife in the company. At the end of the visit we are asked to sit for tea and a few more explanations of the monastery. Despite recent works, the frescoes with religious motifs that remain on the ceiling and walls of the church have not been recovered, lying vandalized and dirty, and only with a help of a flashlight you can get an idea of ​​its beauty.

Although not extensively visiting all these places, the walk along the roads and through villages is itself interesting, the typical landscapes of Cappadocia, arid and rocky, where time carved the rocks giving them organic shapes and sometimes bizarre.

 

The second rout covers the more kilometers, and is recommended to start early: Derinkuyu, Belisirma, Ihlara Valley and Selime Monastery.

In Derinkuyu is possible to visit the underground city, a series of tunnels and stairways that connect halls, houses, stables, school and willing church in this labyrinth that reaches the five floors, and where you feel the pressure, physical as well as psychological, as that if you’re going down the narrow and low corridors.

This underground city, served as a refuge for Greeks, Christians, Zoroastrians and the Byzantines, who took refuge here during the Muslim and Mongolian occupations, protected by heavy stone doors, of circular shape, able to slide and block access to this city under the ground, with a capacity for twenty thousand people.

Ilahra Valley can be visited on foot or by following up Belisirma and toward the Ilahra of town you can have a wide view of the wooded valley that develops a red rock canyon. The green mass of trees that covers the valley, fed by a gentle river, there is a bit like an oasis in the dry and rocky landscape where the flatter areas dominates the cereal planting, but this time of year has already been harvested, leaving a yellowish creeping vegetation.

But it is the Monastery of Selime (Selime Katedrali) which offers the best performance, with the vast array of excavated buildings in the rock as well as a church and a cathedral have various facilities necessary for the operation of the monasteries, such as bedrooms, kitchen, warehouse, stables, wine cellar, dining rooms, etc. … And here also takes a broad view of the valley and the neighbour villages, where the houses built in stone and others dug into the rock.

Important note: to return to Goreme the best option, after visiting the Selime Monastery, is back the way that is again to Ilhara because going north toward Nevsehir, you must travel more than 60 km by highway, the that is far from a pleasant experience for what is a shaky scooter.

 

Love Valley
Love Valley

 

Zelve
Zelve Castle

 

Urgup
Urgup

 

Cappadocia
Cappadocia

 

Mosteiro de Selime (Selime Katedrali)
Selime Monastery (Selime Katedrali)

 

Mosteiro de Selime (Selime Katedrali)
Selime Monastery (Selime Katedrali)

 

Mosteiro de Selime (Selime Katedrali)
Selime Monastery (Selime Katedrali)

 

Mosteiro de Selime (Selime Katedrali)
Selime Monastery (Selime Katedrali)

 

Mosteiro de Selime (Selime Katedrali)
Selime Monastery (Selime Katedrali)

 

Mosteiro de Selime (Selime Katedrali)
Selime Monastery (Selime Katedrali)

 

Cappadocia_Selime Katedrali_DSC_0757
Selime Katedrali

 

Mustafapasa
Mustafapasa

 

Mustafapasa
Mustafapasa

 

Ilahra Valley
Ilahra Valley

 

Ilahra Valley
Ilahra Valley

 

Belisirma
Belisirma

 

Belisirma
Belisirma

 

Belisirma
Belisirma

 

Belisirma
Belisirma

 

Where to stay:

Goreme is a good starting point for exploring the region, as well as Uçhisar, located a few kilometers.

 

Where to eat:

There are several restaurants along this route, is next to the most tourist areas is even in nearby villages. However Zelve was in memory by homemade cheese gozleme. To get there, pass the castle and continue up the footpath, following a rough wooden signs indicating “traditional house”.

In Derinkuyu, underground city entrance there are several outdoor restaurants, serving appetizing gozleme with different fillings as well as other Turkish specialty.

Belisirma also has many restaurant situated by the river, in a bucolic setting offered by the sound of the small stream that runs through the valley and the trees that cool the hot, dry air of Cappadocia.

 

Gozleme saboreado em Zelve
Gozleme at the village of  Zelve

Transports:

The best way to explore the region is by renting a scooter. Cost: 80TL per day.

Maps are provided for guesthouses, hotels and travel agencies.

Alternatively there are three routes organized by travel agency covering the main points of interest.

It can use public buses bound for Urgup, Nevsehir, Ihlara, Avanos and Kayseri, to access some of these places, and the stop on the main road of Goreme, just below the bus terminal, almost opposite the only bank in town … uncertain times and no information on the arrest and buses, requiring request information from the local people.

 

Costs:

In all locations and need to pay a ticket ranging from 10 TL (Selime Monastery) and 20 TL (underground city of Derinkuyu), including Ihlara Valley, which is also charged entry for walking the valley.

The Cemil Monastery to be further from the tourist route costs only 5 TL.

 

Important note: to return to Goreme the best option, after visiting the Selime Monastery, is back the way that is again to Ilhara because going north toward Nevsehir, you must travel more than 60 km by highway, the that is far from a pleasant experience for what is a shaky scooter.

Goreme

The day starts early in the small village of Goreme, still with the cold morning air filling the narrow streets creating a labyrinth of stone houses; some of them using the rocks, which excavated provide comfortable housing that protects from the dry heat of this semi-desert region and from the cold winter, that here brings snow and ice.

In the morning, with the streets still empty is possible to feel the calm atmosphere of this small village, where women, wearing the baggy type “balloon” trousers, with flowery patterns, and scarf tied around her head, initiate housekeeping, cleaning the house, watering yards, shaking rugs…

A contrast to the pace that soon after will fill the streets with the buzz of tourists, with colorful costumes, wielding cameras and maps are headed to the highest point of the village.

Hence, in addition to having a global view of the village, which extends to Uçhisar, located a few kilometers ahead, you can get a broad view of wide vision and deserted rocky landscape featuring the Cappadocia, where the almost total absence of vegetation exposes the rocks shades, ranging from beige, gray to pale pink.

The typical landscape of the Cappadocia region is the result of erosion from rain and wind, which over millions of years was disaggregating these sandy rocks, resulting from volcanic activity… forming rock pillars, creating a sort of stone forest, tall chimneys or cones shape. Rivers, now dry, dug for centuries this rocky plateau creating canyons, creating sheltered valleys with excellent conditions for orchards, such as the Pigeons Valley, near Goreme.

Given the little hard texture of these rock formations, man has learned to take advantage of caves formed naturally to build houses to dwell. In the highest areas small holes dug in the rocks serve to shelter pigeons, whose excrements were utilized to fertilize farm fields.

Goreme, situated in the heart of excrement, is one of the towns that has developed with tourism and where the balloon flights are one of the main attractions, offering a unique view over the valleys and rock formations with flights to carry out with the sunrise that offers unique landscapes views. Here tourists gathering in large numbers, especially from Asia and there is a wide range of accommodation, with more than a hundred hotels and guesthouses for various prices.

In addition to the magical moments of sunrise and sunset, Goreme doesn’t offer many attractions. So trips to Pigeons Valley, near the village, were repeated not only by the pleasant and atmosphere of the place quiet as by existing orchards over valley, many of them abandoned, its branches laden with apples offered delicious snacks as well as provisions for the following travel days.

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme, Pink Valley
Goreme, Pink Valley

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Balloon flights:

Despite being a “must do” a visit to Cappadocia, the balloon flights are expensive for a backpacker budget, at around 150 € per person for a one hour ride.

During winter, in addition to flights made at the sunrise, are also carried out flights in the evening, coinciding with the setting of the sun. The summer due to warm air currents caused by soil heat radiation does not offer safety conditions for the ascent of balloons, being carried out only one flight per day.

The flight is done in groups of 12 or 24 people, depending on balloon size.

Throughout the city there are dozens of travel agencies that organize these tours, which can also be arranged by hotels and guesthouses.

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Goreme
Goreme

 

Where to stay:

Goreme has about 160 apartments, for various prices.

Alternatively you can also stay in Uçhisar, a little smaller, but offers the same tourist facilities in terms of accommodation, restaurants, gift-shops and travel agencies.

The choice fell to Whisper Cave Guest House in Goreme, which in addition to double rooms with bathroom also has two dorms: a 3 beds (female) and another 5 beds (mixed).

 

Whisper Cave Guest House

Aydinli Orta Mahalle

Güngör Sokak No: 17

Göreme / Cappadocia / Turkey

Tel: 00 90 384 271 24 68

 

Price: € 7 dormitory with shared bathroom

Breakfast included (very good)

Free wi-fi

 

Whisper Cave Guest House
Whisper Cave Guest House

 

Whisper Cave Guest House
Whisper Cave Guest House

 

Where to eat:

There are dozens of restaurants and cafes, more or less concentrated in the center of the village and some connected to hotels.

Many offer traditional food of Anatolia, where stews and soups are served in clay pots.

Cafe Goreme, situated on the main street is a meeting place of the local population, where men chat during hours in front of a cup of coffee or a glass of tea, which is undoubtedly the national drink of Turkey.

Goreme. Pigeons Valley
Goreme. Pigeons Valley

 

Transportation:

Goreme with its 200 inhabitants is not exactly a bus terminal, but just outside the village there is a bus parking area, were are concentrated several companies and ticketing agency.

Direct buses to major cities connect Goreme, and you can travel in night service to Istanbul, Ankara, Erzuruem, for example: Konya, Kayseri, where is the nearest airport, lies nearer to have connecting buses several times a day.

Cappadocia
Cappadocia

Istanbul cats

Cats, cats and more cats … the city of Istanbul will always be associated with the presence of these cats, which are a bit all over the place, taking advantage of any location for an extended nap, is a tombstone in a graveyard, a balcony, a terrace, at the train station, in mosques, in markets or in a window of a shop… it is sometimes necessary to compete for space on a chair in a restaurant or a sofa in a coffee shop.

Mostly are stray cats, but the population of the city takes care of them, leaving food and water and always there’s time to stop and pet this creatures that are part of the Istanbul cosy atmosphere.

Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…
Istanbul cats...
Istanbul cats…

Balat… and the gypsy wedding

Balat, located in the Golden Horn, is famous for being associated with the presence of Jews in the city, presence this has contributed to the fame of Istanbul capital from diverse cultures and ethnic groups, with also the presence of Greeks, Kurds, Syrians, Armenians and consequently multi-religious, with the presence of Yezidis, Christian Orthodox, Catholic and all variants of Islam such as the Alevis, Sufi, etc… However, since the second world war this panorama has changed a lot, and the country is now largely dominated by Sunni Muslims.

Nowadays, in Balat is difficult to find traces of the  Jewish presence, except by discrete a synagogue and by symbols carved in older stone buildings.

Despite of the state of degradation of many of the traditional houses built in wood with small balconies the level of first floor, Balat keep a certain charme and atmosphere. Along the main streets of the neighbourhood is possible to find many cafes, terraces and restaurants in a more modern and cosmopolitan style, as well as vintage stores more for tourists who wander around here. A sophistication that balances well with the traditional cafes, place of entertainment where men spend hours playing chess and cards, or sitting in chair at the street, drinking tea, which here is called chai, that is a common habit throughout the country.

Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat
Balat

But walked north along the Golden Horn, crossing the bridge Valid Sultan, comes to Ayvansaray, where the atmosphere is somewhat different, noting a poorer population, more curious and somewhat less accustomed to the presence of tourists. Following randomly by little streets, we were led by the shrill sound of music and voices in a indecipherable language. Until we reach a narrow street where several pieces of clothing from fur coats, towels, sweatshirts, underwear, dresses, skirts, socks, sheets… hang on a string that zigzag up the street. Across this strange drying of new clothes, you arrive at the center of all the action that spreads to nearby streets, where a group of women, fake blond hair and heavy gold jewellery, chanting words at the pace of the drums, in a laud and lively way.

Toke time to realize the reason for so much animation, but the way of dressing and atitude of these women, far away from the description and shyness of Muslim women, along with all the wealth of display material, pointed to the celebration of a marriage between the Roma community.

Friends, neighbours, family and onlookers formed an exclusively women’s group, around the bride, taking over of the narrow street, full of offerings that apart from hanging clothes, include shoes and bags, washing machine and detergent, dishes and pans, sheets and blankets… and even a carefully wrapped in gold paper toilet; hundreds of decorative objects forming a colourful and bright set dominated by fake gold color.

Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray
Festa de casamento cigano em Ayvansaray

How to get there:

The best way to achieve Balat is by ferry, and you can catch a ferryboat which starts at Uksudar, the Asian city side and making routs across the Golden Horn to Eyup, which stops at various points as Karaköy, Eminonu, Cibali, Fener, Balat and Haskoy.

This is the best and cheapest ways to navigate through the channel without paying for the cruise ships and it costs the normal price of a ferry ride, about 2.15 TL for those with the Istanbul Kart.

From Eminonu bus terminal there are also several buses that roam the avenues by the sea and that make stop in Balal, such as 99A. Istanbul city buses have an electronic panel with the full itinerary, that  indicates the next stop as all the following stops.

Likewise, the ferry or bus can reach the zone Ayvansaray.

Fatih… a more Muslim facet of Istanbul

The market Çarşamba in Turkish means Wednesday, the day which takes place this market occupies a significant area in the Fatih district, located on the European side of the city, and one of the most conservative areas of the city, sit a greater presence of the Muslim religion, easily recognizable by the way of dressing of the female population, which dominate the scarves to cover their heads, the hijab called, completely hiding the hair and can be used in various ways, but which dominate the silky fabrics, profusely intricate and colourful patterns.

Quite popular, more here than in other Istanbul zones are pardesu, a kind of thin fabric gabardine who dresses over clothing, slightly belted or even a discreet belt, usually black, but the younger girls They wear light-colored, and does not dispense the same use of the hijab to cover her head.

The chador, a clear influence of Iran and Afghanistan, despite being situated in areas along the bazaars of the old town here is much more common, hiding the body shapes from head to toe, and which invariably black, seems to transform women in faceless shadows.

The visit to Çarşamba market culminated in the beginning of one of the most important Muslim religious festival, after the Ramadan: the Kurban Bayrami, or Feast of the Sacrifice, during which animals are sacrificed, sheep and cows, and serves as a pretext for family gathering and for a national holiday that last for four or five days, and that happens 70 days after Ramadan.

The Kurban Bayrami celebrates the courage of Ibrahim to sacrifice his son Ishmael to show their faithfulness to Allah, which is very similar to a history found in the Old Testament, when God tests the loyalty of Abraham asking him to kill his son Issac.

By Çarşamba is a bit of everything: fruit, vegetables, cheeses, olives, nuts … but what stands out is the sale of clothing, bags, shoes, scarves standing out the necessary cover her head. The celebrations of Kurban Bayrami, also pass by the gift that parents make their children new shoes and clothes, which made this market day still love her lively and crowded

Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market

 

Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market

 

Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market

 

Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market

 

Çarşamba Market
Çarşamba Market

 

Istanbul_Fatih_DSC_0116
Fatih

How to get there:

In Eminonu, near the pier of the ferryboats take bus 90 or 90B and go to Çarşamba.

Istanbul: Sultanahmet and the old town bazares

The south side of the European part of Istanbul, is the oldest part of town, where the weight of the Muslim presence is evident not only by the concentration of mosques as also by the way women dress, with head covered, long, loose and dark clothing. Is not uncommon find face veiled women wearing the black chador that blurs the contours of the body, but where only the eyes stand out, often highlighted by lush make-up.

This is the most popular image of Istanbul, with its bazaars where in addition to the daily use of products from inhabitants, can also find spices, dried fruit, pastries, cheeses, olives, etc … being easy to get lost in the narrow tangle streets constantly crowded with people, an incessant coming and going.

At the center of this area is the Grand Bazaar (Kapali Carsi), clearly intended for tourists, and the Spice Bazaar (Misir Carsisi), more modest but with more character.

But it is in the streets surrounding these sites that is possible to find the more characteristic and authentic environment of a city full of traditions, resulting from a mix of cultures and peoples who passed through here and culminating in a very own identity and that is evident from the Turkey of today.

 

Compelling points of Sultanahmet district is the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii), the Aya Sofia a legacy of the Byzantine Empire and Basilca Cisterna, a complex built in the basement that once was part of the water supply system, also heritage of the Byzantine Empire and date of 532 AD.

 

One of the best kept secrets in one of the side streets in the Spice Bazaar area is the Büyük Valide Han, a building built during the Ottoman Empire to accommodate merchants and now home to artisans who insist on carrying out their trade despite the state of degradation that was voted. But what makes this special place is the view we have of the city of Istanbul from the terrace through which is accessed by a dark, narrow staircase after giving a symbolic contribution of one lira, the man who guards the entrance and receives broad smile.

numa das ruas próximas do Spice Bazaar
close to Spice Bazaar

 

Um pouco por toda a cidade encontra-se a venda ambulante de pão, em forma de anel coberto por sementes de sésamo. Junto aos Bazares encontram-se também vendedores que pelas ruas apregoam o Sumit
All over the place is possible to find people selling the turkish traditional bread, the sumit, with ring shape and covered by sesame seeds.

 

Istanbul bazares
Istanbul bazares

 

nas ruas adjacentes do Spice Bazaar estende-se uma sucessão de lojas dos mais variados produtos, onde apesar da azáfama da multidão que entope as estreitas ruas há sempre tempo para descanso enquanto os clientes não aparecem
the Bazaar adjacent streets extends a succession of shops, where despite de bustle of the crowd that clogs the narrow streets, there is always time for rest while waiting for customers

 

Perto do Spice Bazaar
close to one of the entrance of the Spice Bazaar

 

junto à entrada do Spice Bazaar
near the  Spice Bazaar

 

Na gastronomia Turca o queijo é presença constante, e os mercados oferecem uma grande variedade
The cheese has a mandatory presence in Turkish gastronomy, and the markets offer a big variety

 

Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii),
Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii)

 

Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii),
Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii)

 

Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii),
Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii)

 

vista do telhado do Büyük Valide Han sobre Sultanahmet
Roof top of the  Büyük Valide Han building that offer a great view overs Sultanahmet

 

Interior do Büyük Valide Han
Inside the Büyük Valide Han

 

Vista do Büyük Valide Han sobre Galata e Beyoglu
View over Galata e Beyoglu from Büyük Valide Han roof top

 

Yeni Çami, Old Mosque em Eminonu
Yeni Çami, Old Mosque, in Eminonu

Istanbul… the cosmopolitan Galata and Beyoglu

Galata neighborhood which nestles around the famous tower, sliding down the slope, is perhaps the heart of the bohemian life of the city in its most European and cosmopolitan version with cafes, terraces, bookstores, musical instruments shops, art galleries… one more alternative and modern environment that sometimes makes us forget that we are in a Turkey. Even the architecture of the buildings, in a neoclassical style, elegant facades, along orthogonal grid of lanes brings us to the streets of Paris

In Beyoglu district also known as Pera, that slide down the hill until reach the Bosphourus waters, also breathes this modern environment, where the presence of women with head cover by scarf isn’t so evident, and where along the Istiklal Caddesi. This street is always crowded with people, day and night, succeeding shops and clothing stores of international brands, restaurants and stunning candy stores, a specialty of the rich Turkish cuisine. Occasionally Istikal Caddesi is crossed by an old style tram that takes us to the beginning of the last century, in a contrast with the modern atmosphere.

Beyoglu is also the center of nightlife where many cafes, which occupy the side streets, turns into bars with the fall of the day.

Galata
Shoe polisher in one back street close to Galata Tower
Beyoglu
Beyoglu
uma das especialidade em termos de doces é o Sütlaç, uma espécie de pudim à base de arroz e leite que é cozinhado no forma, mas cujo sabor nos remete para o português arroz-doce. Em Galata foi possivel encontrar um vendedor ambulante de um delicioso Sütlaç coberto de pistácio moído
Sütlaç, is a kind of rice pudim, a very popular desert that was possible to fin in one of the streets of Galata
Beyoglu
Beyoglu
Galata
Galata

 

Galata
Galata

 

İstiklal Caddesi
İstiklal Caddesi

 

Karakoy Gulluoglu, loja especializada em baklava, em Beyoğlu, e que é uma referencia na cidade de Istanbul
Karakoy Gulluoglu, loja especializada em baklava, em Beyoğlu, e que é uma referencia na cidade de Istanbul
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I’m Catarina, a wanderer from Lisbon, Portugal… or a backpack traveller with a camera!

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