Iran

Were are the persian cats?!?!

From Persia come not only the carpets… also the cats, famous for their long fur, sweet look and fluffy tail.

But where are they? The famous Persian cats?!?! Due to is high price certainly only at home of wealthy family, away from the city streets, bazaars and markets, where stray cats roam relatively freely.

These stray cats, fed by the inhabitants show a little shy and distrustful, without losing their natural instinctive curiosity common to all cats.

The highest concentration of these urban felines was in the bazaar of Tabriz, where one of the many caravancerais, were many men gathering for talking or just sitting in the shade provided by the trees. The cats wander around with the full confidence of who dominates the place.

Soon you can see the reason for such concentration of cats, with the arrival of a man carrying a bag with leftover meat, which totally destabilize the peaceful courtyard, with cats dispute the food among themselves. Chaos that don’t last for long, with the cats laying down at the sun and the caravancerai returning to previous peaceful atmosphere.

Gatos esperando pela chegada da comida. Tabriz Bazaar — Stay cats waiting for food at caravancerai of Tabriz Bazaar

Tabriz Bazaar, onde restos de carne servem diariamente de alimento a dezenas de gatos de rua que se passeiam pelas redondezas de um dos caravansarais do Bazaar de Tabriz — Meat leftovers given daily to stay cats at Tabriz Bazaar

Fahraj… a village in the desert

With the night comes the cold air that characterizes the desert nights. From the mosque come chanting and the rhythm of the drums of Ashura celebrations, a festival celebrates the death of Hussein and that puts the population of rigorous mourning, only interrupted by laughter and play of children.

During the day the streets of the small village of Fahraj are practically deserted and silent, with this quietness only interrupted by the occasional passing of a motorcycle or a car for the few paved roads. Walked out of the compact and well-defined urban area we come across farmland that direct your eyes to the mountains, which at a far distance limit the vast and bare plain, with its gray shadow.

In the oldest part of the village, among narrow streets and adobe houses we find the Majehd-e Jameh Mosque considered the oldest mosque in Iran, dating from the beginning of the Islamic presence in Persia. The minaret that stands out from the uniform low buildings of Fahraj, whose shape resembles a lighthouse, served as a reference point for caravans crossing the region.

The narrow, poorly lit streets, were night silence is only interrupted by the sound of our steps crashing the loose stones spread through the streets. In the sky with fragments of clouds that hide the stars, lurks a half moon moving towards full.

While not offering many tourist attractions, Fahraj is a good option to escape from the city itineraries that usually characterizes the tourist tours in Iran, with the advantage of being only 35 kilometers from Yazd, easily accessible by public transport.

In Fahraj there is little to do beyond enjoying the slow passage of time, in a village situated in a vast desert plain.

Accommodation:

Farvardinn Desert Inn (known locally as “hotel” is the only option in terms of accommodation)

www.farvardinndesertinn.com

Dorm Bed: 300,000 rials (breakfast included)

Meals: 200,000 rials (vegetarian option is possible, but the food isn’t interesting at all)

Free wi-fi

The Farvardinn Desert Inn offers good conditions, and despite the dorm is located in a basement with no natural light, offer comfortable common areas, such as the patio and the dining room.

Fahraj. Farvardinn Desert Inn. Contactos.

Where to eat:

There are no options at Fahraj beyond Farvardinn Desert Inn… some grocery stores with a modest offer where you can find fruit (not much choice), vegetables, cheese, crackers… there is also a bakery. The opening time of these shops is a mystery…

The meals at Farvardinn Desert Inn are not particularly interesting in terms of vegetarian food. However the breakfast is good, with fruit, eggs, cheeses, bread, cucumbers, tomatoes, butter, jam, dates and tea.

Transport:

Fahraj is little more than 35 km of Yazd, about 1 hour by bus.

Buses to Fahraj depart from Mehrab Terminal (Mehrab Square) roughly every hour, but you may want to check the timetable on the photo below, because there are some “holes”.

Fahraj is the last stop of this bus.

Bus: 10,000 rials

Ashura Festival… and one day Iran woke mourning!

Shortly after my to Iran, arrival at the beginning of October, I noticed at various cities some shops dedicated to the sale of flags and banners dominated by the black colour, with Arabic inscriptions. From day to day it seemed that these shops increased in number or simply just became more evident, in the bazaars and city streets, exposing also more goods that also included scarves, pants, shirts and veils.

But it was on the second day after arrival in Kashan, when the moon is no longer visible in the sky, that I felt that something had changed in the city… streets decorated with banners, bazaars corridors decorated with flags, all invariably black with green or red inscriptions, many women in chador, men in black shirt… a kind of collective mourning. It was the beginning of Muharram the first month of the Islamic calendar that begins with the new moon, making the dates movable in the Gregorian calendar.

Muharram is the second most sacred celebration for Muslims after the Ramadan, and for the Shiites (Shia) sect has a special meaning as in the 10th day of Muharram, the Ashura Day, is celebrated the death of Hussein (Husayn or Hossein), grandson of Muhammad and one of the 12 Imams (sort of saints or apostles of Muslim religion) the prophet’s successors.

In the year 680 AD, Imam Hussein and 72 of his followers were surrounded for nine days, going through suffering without food and water, been killed on the 10th day at the Battle of Karbala and the survivors imprisoned. This episode, seen as a struggle between good, Hussein, and evil, personified by Caliph Yazid I that commanding Arab troops invaded Persia, marks the split between the Muslim Sunnis (Sunni) and Shiites (Shia).

These events occurred 1335 years ago, are celebrated in a intense and emotional way with the manifestations of grief and pain become more intense, more strict black clothes for both men and women, processions, weeping and crying, beating with the hand in the chest, and with the men carrying heavy floats over the head or shoulders, or practicing self-flagellation with chains that are thrown on the shoulders against the back during processions.

The last three days are the most important; feeling tension in the air with the arrival of dusk, when the celebrations starts, on the streets or in mosques, reaching its peak in the tenth day, Day of Ashura, which means “tenth”.

During the days before the Ashura, songs related to the martyrdom of Hussein, sung as a lament, following the rhythm of the drums beat, spread in the streets, coming from shops, cars or houses. The same rhythm that drives the night ceremonies, of chest beating and shooting currents; an intense and heavy rhythm, and a male dominated ceremony where women have a secondary place.

All this devotion, were is not unusual for people to cry, the songs like wails, the black that dominates the decor and the clothes, the excitement and intensity placed in the ceremonies, create an extremely intense and emotional atmosphere that can only be experienced on site. According to tradition who shed tears during Ashura, have their wishes fulfilled by Imam Hussein, and it is not uncommon to see men cry following the words of a speaker who chantings recounts the martyrdom of Hussein.

A quick look can see all these exaggerated manifestations with religious fanaticism, but what I felt was a deep and honest devotion… with a hint of competitiveness and even exhibitionism in the way young men beat their chests, knowing that are observed by women at the masque galleries.

The day after the Ashura, carried out the Ashura Carnival: a parade were groups of people and cars show the various episodes of the martyrdom of Hussein and his followers. At the end of this procession resembles a carnival parade, but instead of fun dominates a serious atmosphere of sorrow, but already away from the intensity of the previous day.

The celebrations end on that same night with the people gathering at mosques and squares elsewhere in the city of Yazd, where he watched the last days of Ashura, to light candles which gives a special atmosphere of calm and serenity.

The Ashura is celebrated all over the world where you are presented with a Shiite community, and the celebrations in Iran much more moderate than is often found in images from other countries like Pakistan or Iraq where the self-flagellation of practice is taken to extreme, causing serious wounds in participating, attitude condemned by many religious. Iran this practice is forbidden, and despite the ills left by the violent beating of hands against his chest, and shoot chains against the back, does not reach exaggerated proportions or trance states, with the population showing restrained, despite the bustle and excitement that sits in the air.

Being in Iran during Ashura, by chance, was certainly a unique, intense and unforgettable experience, while at the same time been a period a bit “heavy” resulting from all solemnity and austerity that has spread among the population, that not so let him show the usual generosity and sympathy.

Decorações do Ashura à venda n uma loja junto ao Grand Bazar de Theran — Ashura decorations in a shop near the Tehran Grand Bazar

Procissão nos primeiros dia do Ashura. Shiraz — Procession in Shiraz streets on the first days of Ashura celebrations

Correntes usadas na autoflagelação à venda no bazar de Shiraz — Chains used for self-flagelation during the celebrations of Ashura in a bazar shop at Shiraz

Comemorações do Ashura pela comunidade Iraquiana, em que pesadas estruturas metálicas são transportadas. Yazd — Celebrations of Ashura by the Iraquian community at Yazd

Comemorações do Ashura pela comunidade Iraquiana. Yazd — Celebrations of Ashura by the Iraquian community at Yazd

Ashura numa pequena mesquita na Old City de Yazd — Ashura at a small mosque in Old City at Yazd

Sham-e Ghariban. Ashura Candle Ceremony. Yazd

During these days it is offered tea in small stalls improvised a bit all over the place, and sometimes is also offered food, as Gheimeh a lamb stew, with lentils and vegetables served with rice and Sholehzard, a rice pudding with saffron. Other traditional meal is the ash soup, with lamb that is cooked by volunteers all night, getting ready the next morning for being distributed on breakfast.

Durante so 10 dias que decorrem as celebrações do Ashura, um pouco por toda o lado surgem quiosques que oferecem chá, e por vezes doces, tâmaras, refeições, pão... é tradicional a oferta de comida durante estes dias — During 10 days, small stalls offer tea, dates, sweets and sometimes meals, as tradition during the Ashura

Preparação da sopa "ash" na noite do Ashura para ser consumida na manhã seguinte ao pequeno almoço — Preparing the ash soup, during Ashura night, to be served in the next morning as breakfast

During Ashura, in particular in the last 3 days:

The last three days most of the shops are closed, including banks, exchange shops, restaurants, grocery stores, etc… yet lots of food is distributed free during the celebrations near the mosques, at some shops, bakeries or by local people. As alternative just left the hotel restaurants.

Many bus services, both local and long distance are canceled.

Should dress modestly, avoiding shiny or light colors clothing, special inside or nearby the mosques… but for tourists these rules are always more loose.

As it is a period of grief and mourning, should be avoided public show of great enthusiasm, dancing, listen to music, laugh out loud …

Imam Hussein Fan Club:

The Ashura is celebrated across Iran, in cities as in small towns, and celebrations can be seen both on city streets or mosques, being the free access. Inside the mosques the men can stay in the main ground, but the women usually must go to galleries on upper floor or stay in reserved areas on the back of the mosque.

A bit by chance, I joined a group called Imam Hussein Fan Club, which no commercial intentions organized tour for tourists present in Yazd, during the last days of Ashura. This group, made up of tourist guides had also the aim to encourage the so-called “religious tourism” and above all promoting Iran in terms of tourism, tried to clean the image of Islamic radicals that often this country is cataloged.

An excellent organization that provided access to reserved areas at the mosques, transportation to visit other ways to celebrate Ashura away from the center of Yazd, and even some meals. However, all this organization offers little space to anyone wandering on their own, with the various elements of the organization not giving much freedom of movement.

Calendário de eventos organizado pelo grupo "Imam Hussein Fan Club" — Schedule of the events organized by “Imam Hussein Fan Club”

Yazd and Zoroastrianism

The city of Yazd is clearly associated with Zoroastrianism, dominant religious worship in Persia until the Arab invasion, which brought the Muslim religion around 633 AD.

Zoroastrianism follow the prophet Zoroaster and brings together influences of Greek culture and existing animistic religions in the region. With the arrival of the Arabs to Persia, Islam quickly replaced this religion. However there are about 30 to 100 thousand followers, mainly in the region of Tehran and Yazd.

The Zoroastrian symbol, faravahar (or fravahr), present in Persepolis ruins and which in a way is also adopted as symbol of Persia, represents the principles and teachings of the prophet Zoroaster: good thoughts, good words, good deeds.

The figure of the old bearded man represents wisdom, experience and maturity of an elder;
The raised right hand indicates that there is only one way forward in life, and that is the path of righteousness;
The ring on the left hand represents loyalty and fidelity, basic principles of the Zoroastrian religion;
The wings, divide in three lines represent the three basic principles “good thoughts, good words, good deeds” that enable the advancement and progress;
The ring in the center symbolizes the eternity of the universe, the immortality of the spirit and the eternal nature of the soul, having no beginning or end, like a circle.
The tail, divided into three lines, is “bad thoughts, bad words and bad deeds” that cause suffering and misery to humans;
The two ropes together to tail represent the good and evil spirits, the forces of good and evil.

From Zoroastrianism last in Yazd the legacy of Ateshkadeh, the Sacred Fire, a flame that is kept burning for over 540 years, and that have been in different locations until in 1931 was built in Yazd the Fire Temple.

Ateshkadeh o Fogo Sagrada (Fire Temple) que está nestet edificio desde 1931, apesar de ser mantida acesa à 475 anos — Fire Temple

Ateshkadeh o Fogo Sagrada (Fire Temple — Ateshkadeh, the Sacred Fire

The fire as well as water, air and earth are sacred elements for Zoroastrian religion, which means that the bodies are not buried or cremated to avoid contamination of elements of earth and air. Thus, at funeral ceremonies the bodies were left in specific locations to be consumed by vultures. Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence) is one of these sites dating from 5AC and was used until the 60s, when the bodies of the Zoroastrianism followers start to be buried in concrete urns in a nearby cemetery. The site comprises two hills easily reached, where at the top, secured by a circular stonewall is a concavity where the bodies were deposited.

Despite the simplicity of the place, reigns a solemn atmosphere illuminated by the last day of sunshine, offers an unforgettable image.

Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)

Tickets:

Fire Temple (Ateshkadeh): 50,000 rials
Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence): is being built a wall around the space, is now charged admission ticket in Dakhmeh; however you can walk a little toward the left side to get around the wall and access the East tower in an existing path, a little harder than the main path; from the East tower can get off the normal route and get to the other tower.

Getting to the Fire Temple (Ateshkadeh):

The journey from Masjed-e Jameh Street to the Tempe Fire can be done on foot, taking about 45 minutes; yet within easy orientation and wide sidewalks, the route is not very attractive along big avenues with a succession of shops without interest.

Alternatively you can use one of the buses that pass Iman Khomenei Street (next to the Masjed-e Jameh Street) that pass by Behshsti Square.

Here cross the square to the bus stand located at the beginning of 10 Farvadin Street, where many buses going to Mahrab Square, stopping close to the Fire Temple entrance.

Getting to Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun (Towers of Silence)

“Towers of Silence” is the tourist name that appears in travel guides, but it’s unknown for local people that call this place by Dakhmeh.

To get there by taxi or more economically by bus.

In Iman Khomenei Street, next to the Masjed-e Jameh Street is bus stop can stop many bound for Behshsti Square, but this distance can be done on foot.
Standing in Behshsti Square, look for the stop located at 10 Farvadin Street, spend several bus bound for Mehrab Square, where lies a small local bus terminal.
At the bus terminal in Mehrab Square, you must look for bus number 319 passing in Dakhmé; not worth asking for “Towers of Silence” because this name has nothing to do with the name given by local people.

Even if it is unknown the number of bus, you can always ask to people who are at the stop, or to the drivers of buses that stop by asking for “Behshsti”, “Mehrab” and “Dakhmé” … in general everybody It is willing to help!

The price of each bus ride is 5,000 rials, and is paid directly to the driver, not getting any ticket. Often they are not charged any ticket to tourists.

Yazd

Walking through the deserted streets of the Old City, the oldest part of Yazd, easily see the badgir, which are the mark of the city highlighting the brown uniform houses. The badgir built in adobe are part of an effective ventilation system, which allows cool down the hot outside air, caring it into the interior of the houses; these towers as also the traditional construction of the houses, with thick brick walls, covered by a clay plaster, prevent the houses of getting to worn with this hot and dry desert climate.

The clay color of the walls characterise the Old City, as well as the labyrinthine network of narrow streets that provide shade to those who venture to walk during the hours of greatest heat.

Wandering on the streets of the Old City, where the center is a mosque in blue tones whose two towers serve as a point of orientation, the Masjed-e Jameh (Jameh Mosque) we invariably arrive to the modern and wide avenues characterise the city of Yazd. In the southwestern part of the Old City is the bazaar, a succession of buildings along covered streets but that does not seem very interesting, not the architectural point of view or of marketed products.

Yazd_Old City_badgir_DSC_3468 — Yazd Old City. badgirs

But in addition to the mosques, the Old City and Zoroastrianism, the city of Yazd is also famous for its sweets, which can be found, especially at the shops around the the Amir Chakhmaq Square. The most famous shop, according to the number of people that attracts, is the Haj Khalifeh Ali Rahbarb, located on the corner of Imam Khomeinei Square with Amir Chakhmaq Square, and is only identified in Farsi characters.

Inside, behind a long counter a dozen employees in large bustle serve customers, following a complex but effective system, where you must first write down on paper what you want to buy, delivering the order at the counter, who after weigh returns a ticket, that must be given to the cashier to pay; with the receipt you can finally receive the mysterious sweet… mysterious, because you can’t buy a single unit to try, being sold only in boxes, with the choice based on specimens exposed in shop windows, with the description and the ingredients.

The options are many, dominating the almonds, pistachios, cardamom and sugar … lots of sugar. The choice was to baklava, whose Iranian version has little to do with the Turkish counterpart, but also good.

Also very popular is the halva, a paste made of flour, oil or butter, sugar or honey; mixture which is then brought to the boil to cook. One can find different versions with pistachio, saffron, rose-water, varying in terms of consistency and flavor.

In Yazd I found the halva with tahini (sesame paste), results in a creamy delight.

Halva com tahini... fabulosa combinação — Halva with tahini… amazing combinations of ingredients

Accommodation:

Yazd is a city that attracts many tourists and is easy to find groups walking through the Old City streets or visiting the mosques. As such is the wide accommodation offer even for backpackers style, the Silk Road Grup offer three options, all with dormitory and double rooms. The Silk Road Hotel and Orient Hotel are both conveniently located near the Masjed-e Jameh, the Ols City and the bazaar, in a peaceful and quiet area.

Address: Masjed-e Jameh street, Sith Alley (are opposite each other on either side of the street)

Silk Road Hotel: 09 13151 6361

Orient Hotel: 09 37755 6264

Email: silkroad_hotel@yahoo.com

Dorms for 330,000 rials, including breakfast. (booking is recommended as similar to Silkroad hotel this place is listed in guide books). There are 3 different kinds dorm rooms, quiet different form each other, so is wise to have a look before you decide were to stay.

Free wi-fi

The staff speaks English fluently and was the friendliest I met in Iran.

The other alternative is the Oasis Hotel, also managed by the Silk Road Group:

Address: Seyyed Roknoddin Alley

Phone: 09 13358 4172

The choise was the Orient Hotel, which offers reasonable bedrooms, nice bathrooms, and large living space around a courtyard dominated by a tank, and a roof top were is located the restaurant. The breakfast is delicious, with small variations each day, but always with bread, eggs, tomato, cucumber, cheese, yogurt (homemade), fruits and delicious dates. The staff and extremely friendly and helpful, providing all kinds of information like move in the city and reach the places of tourist interest without resorting to organized tours. I recommend.

Where to eat:

The city is big, dispersed with wide and long avenues that makes difficult to find a specific location with a concentration of restaurants.

One option found was the restaurant Silk Road Hotel and the Orient Hotel, which serves local food, with vegetarian variations and with prices around 120,000 rials.

In terms of fast food, the falafel of the restaurant identify by the sign “Arabic Food” in Amir Chakhmaq Square (on the left who are facing the Amir Chakhmaq Mosque) was quiet good, where for 35,000 rials you can fill a baguette with falafels and a wide options of salads.

Falagel fast-food restaurant na Amir Chakhmaq Square

Money Exchange:

As in Iran exchange euros or dollars in banks is an unattractive solution being charged commission, the best option are the exchange shops, which generally have no commission and offer a better rate. In Imam Khomenei Street, near the Masjed-e Jameh street, (10 minutes from the Silk Road and the Orient Hotel) in front of the post office.

Travel agency:

Near the Masjed-e Jameh Street, a small, discreet door on the right side of who is going to the Orient Hotel, is a travel agency focused on selling bus and train tickets with an excellent and friendly service.

Also in Masjed-e Jameh Street, very close to the Silk Road and the Orient Hotel is ITTA travel agency, where friendly employees do everything possible to make reservations for plane tickets, train or bus, as well as sold organized tours to visit the main attractions of the city or make trips bound for Shiraz and Esfahan, stopping in major places of tourist interest.

A bit further away is another agency for those wishing to purchase tickets to pair ferry Bandar Abbas-Dubai:

Yazd Seyr Travel Agency

Address: Motahari Street (opp Nik-Poor Clinic)

Localização de uma das agências de viagem e da loja de câmbios situadas proximos do Hotel Orient e do Silk Road — Location of the travel agency as also exchange shop nearby the Hotel Orient and Silk Road hotel

Transports:

The main Bus Terminal Yazd, Imam Hussein, is more than 5 km away form the Old CIty, being necessary to use taxi. The taxi costs about 100,000 rials depending on the bargaining power. Shared-taxis can be found outside the terminal and cost about 50,000 rials; to get the better price sometimes you must wait until the taxis is full, which means 4 passengers total, but sometimes they star the ride with just a two or three and them pick more passengers on the way.

There is another local bus terminal, next to Mehrab Square, designed for urban service and serving the suburbs settlements around: here buses depart bound for Fahraj or Dakhme (Towers of Silence).

Persepolis ruins

We are greeted at the arrival by two gigantic statues of bulls, whose heads already destroyed not steal importance to his presence, giving even a mysterious look. On the opposite side of this gate, are two other statues of robust bull body, winged and with human head, which as guardians observe indifferent over time the thousands of tourists who flock here daily. We are in Persepolis, the so-called Gate of Nations.

This giant sculptures at the gate od Persepolis representing Shedu (or Lamassu) with lion body or sometimes bull, a human head and bird wings, are protective deity related to the zodiac and originated in Mesopotamia

But despite Persepolis mean the “City of Persians” this site wasn’t built as a city but for ceremonial purposes showing the greatness and power of the Achaemenid Empire.

The construction of Persepolis began in 515 BC by Cyrus named “the Great” founder of the Achaemenid Empire and was subsequently added by his successors: Darius and Xerxes.

But it was Alexander “the Great” that in 300 BC ended the greatness of this place, looting and burning, apparently in revenge, for earlier King Xerxes had order to burn down the city of Athens.

Throughout the space, walls reveal large images carved in stone, represented envoys of other nations, bringing offerings, showing hosts, ornamented with flowers, lettering and various representations where it is a lion attacking a bull, symbolising the eternal struggle of the Moon (bull) with the Sun (Lion); this duality is also related to the Zoroastrian religion, and is the Persian New Year (Nowruz), which coincides with the equinox marking the beginning of spring.

The faravahar, also called fravahr, symbolises the Persian nation, and representation can be found in various locations of the ruins of Persepolis, especially in the figures carved in Tomb of Artaxerxes II, as a kind of protector angel, with the wings and tail of a bird, a human figure at the center, emerging from a hoop, holding a ring, whose meaning is closely connected to the Zoroastrian religion.

Persepolis being the heart of Persia, instead of “Salam”, the traditional greeting in Farsi but that comes from the Arabic language, we are invited to use the old term “dûrut”.

Persepolis, is without doubt a must see place for anyone traveling through Iran, and despite the large amount of people who visit the site, the vast majority on organised tours, does not take away the beauty or impact these ruins of another vanished empire.

Persepolis. Artaxerxes II Tomb — Persepolis. Shedu or Lamassu: lions body, humans head and bird wings. Protective deity with connections with zodiac and origin in old Mesopotamia

How to reach Persepolis:

This is undoubtedly the challenge for those visiting Persepolis.

Virtually all hotels and travel agencies organize tours that may or may not include Naqsh-e Rostam and Pasargadae: with values between 30 and 50 USD.

It is also possible hired a taxi for return trip, asking the driver to wait for the end of the visit to bring you back to Yazd; however there are reports that in turn is asked for more money than agreed, with the argument that the waiting time during the visit was longer than arranged.

You can Persepolis also by public transport Persepolis: At the Karandish Bus Terminal (the main terminal in Yazd) you need to walk toward the binding in direction of the south exit, and then cross the avenue to the other side where a small mini-bus terminal is located. Then here take a bus to the city of Marvdasht, 50 km. From Marvdasht you need a taxi (or a shared taxi) for the next 10 km until Persepolis entrance.

The greatest difficulty is to go through the human barrier created by taxi drivers at Karandish Bus Terminal, that virtually prevent people from reaching the terminal across the street, blocking the way, giving incorrect information that there are no buses (to be Friday or any other reason) and offering different prices for the route to Persepolis.

Given this situation couldn’t even get information about the routes, schedules or bus prices to Marvdasht.

The solution came unexpectedly from a Iranian couple who was in the terminal and offered to give me a ride, and bring me back; Having visited Persepolis with me, showing a pleasant and interesting company, taking me also to visit other places of Shiraz. With this, not to abuse the generosity of this couple I skip the visit to Naqsh-e Rostam, highly recommended.

Were to Eat:

At the entry, were is the ticket counter, toilets and gift-shops you can also find something to eat, drink or snacks, even within the archaeological complex you all find a café serving drinks and light meals.

Inside the complex is possible to find drinking water taps.

Tickets:

Persepolis: 150,000 rials

Inside the complex there is a museum, being necessary to purchase another ticket: 100,000 rials.

Shiraz… the wine and the poets

Shiraz, with over 2000 years of history is considered the heart of Persia, not only in historical and cultural terms; Shiraz is known as the city of poets, where the tombs of Hafez and Saadi poets and also famous for wine which is currently prohibited under Islamic law, that in the 9th century became the most famous wine in the Middle East. Despite the phonetic similarities with the name of Syrah cast, popular in Europe, have nothing to do with Iran’s Shiraz that is a white wine … yes, “is” because secretly is still produced and not all existing vineyards in the region are for grape or raisin!

The city has much to offer to visitors, among mosques, bazaars, gardens, etc… but not everything is close to the center, requiring long walks or trips on a shared-taxi.

As must-visit is the Masoleum of Hafez (Aramgah-e Hafez), where is the tomb of Hafez poet, surrounded by a garden where locals and visitors move to pay respect to the poet, praying, reading books or simply wandering along the place. The arrival to this place by the end of the day, when the sun had already disappeared over the horizon but the sky still keep some tones of blue that quickly get dark letting emerge the stars, with together with the intellectual and spiritual devotion create a mystic and magic atmosphere to which no one get´s indifferent.

The rich architecture, the elaborately decorated in mosaics forming geometric motifs that lines the main building ceilings, and the spacious and minimalist gardens, of the Masoleum of Saadi (Aramgah-e Saadi) did not provide an atmosphere so special, yet this place is also very popular among the local population, that comes here at the end of the day savoring the tranquility and fresh air.

Masoleum of Saadi (Aramgah-e Saadi), — Masoleum of Saadi (Aramgah-e Saadi)

The Bazaar-e Vakil, despite the interesting architecture of the building this bazar wasn’t particularly interesting finding is dominated by Ashura decorations, the largest religious festival for Shiite Muslims, which is dominate the black flags with religious inscriptions.

Medicinal Teas and Herbs at Bazar-e Vakil

Fábrica de pão em Shiraz. Tradicionalmente o pão no Irão é espalmado, existindo contudo muitas variedades e formatos, variando de cidade para cidade e de fábrica para fábrica. — Bakery at Shiraz. Traditionally the bread in Iran is all flat, yet you can find many different kinds of bread, changing from city to city, and eve from bakery to bakery.

But the most striking impression of Shiraz, not just by the stunning space but the mostly by the atmosphere experienced was Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh, the giant mosque located in the city center, which can go unnoticed despite its ornate portals, and that is the principal place of pilgrimage in the city of Shiraz.

Security measures forbidden cameras inside, but no picture can convey the impression made by the interior of the mosque where lies the tomb of Sayyed Mir Ahmad: the walls, pillars and ceilings completely covered with small mirrors forming a kind of kaleidoscope as we move towards the different rooms. Inside, where men and women are separated, reigns a mixed environment of religious devotion with lines of women fully black dressed praying at the tomb while others sited in groups, chatting casually while children run and play without rest.

Around the mosque hidden by big walls from the streets of Shiraz is the huge patio that was gradually filling up with people. From a distance comes the sound of drums, slow and syncopated beat, and songs that more closely resemble lamentations. Following towards these unusual sounds that take us out of the mosque, we are faced with a procession, in which groups of men dressed in black shirt, hit strongly with his hand on the chest to the rhythm of the words that come out from shrill speaker accompanying the procession. Behind other groups, hit with chains on the shoulders, a flogging act that leaves the metallic sheen of the currents on the black fabric of the shirts. This was the first of ten days dedicated to the celebrations of the Ashura all over Iran.

Out of this black and heavy environment, the visit on the day after to the Masjed-e Nasir-al-Mock brought opposite sensations, with the light entering the prayer room through the windows full of color glass that occupy the entire facade facing the east, illuminated the interior of the space of a colorful warm light, transmitting peace and comfort.

Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh Mosque

Cameras are not allowed; however during Ashura, in the company of elements of “foreigner affairs” (volunteers with good English which lead tourists through the mosque) you can take pictures.

Women have to wear chador, which completely covers the body from head to toe; at the entry the chadors are provided for free.

Open 24 hours.

Free entrance.

http://shahecheragh.ir/

Masjed-e-Nasir al-Mock:

Schedule:

During the week: 8.00 – 12.00; 15.30h – 18.00h

Friday and public holidays: 8.00 – 11.00; 15.30h – 17.00h

Ticket: 100,000 rials

Should go during tomorrow around 10 or 11 hours, when the sun shines on the facade of stained glass.

Accommodation:

Niayesh Boutique Hotel

In front of BiBi Dokhtaran, Alley 4,

Namazi Junction towards Shahe-e Cheragah

Phone: 0711 2233 622

www.niayeshhotels.com

Dorm that the room is more similar to a corridor roughly split into compartments with 2 beds each; little space. The rooms have window to the central courtyard that also work as restaurant, and can be a bit noisy especially during the breakfast, served by 7 am.

Dorm Bed: 400,000 rials.

Breakfast is included and is very good: buffet style (fruit, bread, egg, cheese, yogurt, butter, jams, honey, tea and coffee … and some delicious dates involved in tahini (sesame paste).

Good location.

Free Wi-fi.

Niayesh Boutique Hotel. Drom room — Niayesh Boutique Hotel. Dorm room

Where to eat:

In the main streets of the center, such as the Loft Ali Khan Boulevard and Karim Khan Zand-e Boulevard you can find some fast-food restaurants with kebabs, falafel, ash-e reshteh and halim.

Like most Iranian cities, Shiraz also has its traditional sweet, the foloodeh, a kind of ice cream made of thin starch noodles, flavored with rose water and slightly sweetened. Sometimes it can be served with ice cream and drizzled with lime juice. Very refreshing.

The Salamat Restaurant is a vegetarian suggestion, located in Niayesh Boulevard, but is located far away from the city center.

Foloodeh, Doce típico de Shiraz, gelado com sabor a água de rosas

Transport:

The arrival in Shiraz is on the well-organized Karandish Bus Terminal. On arrival we are approached by various taxi drivers and that lead you to a kiosk of prepaid taxis. Solution to avoid if you are traveling alone because here taxis charge 100,000 rials to the city center; for half the price you can take a shared-taxi in the streets surrounding the terminal.

To go from downtown to the Karandish Bus Terminal, from were departure the long distance buses, you can use the local bus, that start from the small bus terminal, Ahmid Bus Stop in Dastgheib Boulevard, near the Mosque Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh; there is a small kiosk selling tickets that provides information about the number of the bus and the corresponding stop.

Bus Esfahan – Shiraz: 7 hours, 170,000 rials, Normal bus

Bus Shiraz – Yazd: 5 hours, 200,000 rials, VIP Bus

Estrada Esfahan - Shiraz — Roas Esfahan – Shiraz with never ending straight alignments

Estrada Esfahan - Shiraz, onde a chegada a esta ultima cidade se reveste de uma paisagem mais verde e onde surge agricultura — Road Esfahan – Shiraz. At the approaching to Shiraz the landscape become more and more green with agriculture fiels

Esfahan and Imam Square

At the north side of Zayandeh River lays the historic part and the center of Esfahan, which is not limited only to the famous bridges over the river however become dry by the will of man. Around the officially called Naqsh-e Jahan Square, or more often called Imam Square or Shah Square, which itself attracts many visitors there are the main points of tourist attraction: Masjed-e Shah (Imam Mosque), Masjed-e Sheikh Loftollah, Ali Qapu Palace and the Bazar-e Bozorg.

The Imam Square, classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, is the second largest square in the world, just after Tiananmen Square in Beijing; rectangular in shape is divided into several lawns decorated with shrubs and flowers. At the center is a tank where water fountains create more than a visual effect, a pleasant sound of running water, which always gives freshness to this space exposed to the merciless sun.

As the whole area is banned to traffic, attracts many people, especially in the evening, that find here a nice and quiet place for picnics with family or groups of women in animated chatting, eating sunflower seeds (an national “addiction”), while nearby children play with each other and adolescent play free style bicycle manoeuvres.

Galleries, now dedicated to shopping and restaurants focused on tourists demand, spread in large numbers around the entire rectangle forming the Imam Square, with the gigantic and imposing Masjed-e Shah Mosque (Imam Mosque) located at the south side of the square and the Bazar-e Bozorg, the old Esfahan bazaar whose entrance is located at the top north, almost unnoticed by the number of gift shops that occupy the galleries.

However most of the buildings of the Bazar-e Bozorg were built in the early 17th century, with ceilings composed by a succession of vaults, built in brick, occupying a huge area with an intricate maze of streets that ends in caranvaserais and patios make the navigation difficult.

But by the size and variety of products, of this bazaar attracts traders from various parts of Iran and neighbouring countries, identifying the way to wear the Kurds, Pakistanis and Afghans.

Esfahan_Bazaar-e Bozorg_DSC_2718 — Bazar-e Bozorg

In the extreme southeast of the Imam Square is the B-Hassan Abad Alley, a narrow and long street, with some covered areas, along which succeed shops and workshops dedicated to manufacturing and selling local crafts, by which the province of Esfahan is famous: bronze, enamel, inlaid, jewelry, textiles…

Tickets:

Masjed-e Shah (Masjed-e Imam): 150.000 rials

Masjed-e Sheikh Loftollah: 100.000 rials

Ali Qapu Palace: 150.000 rials

Were to stay:

http://steppingoutofbabylon.com/2015/11/20/esfahan-e-as-pontes-sobre-o-rio-zayandeh/

Were to eat:

http://steppingoutofbabylon.com/2015/11/20/esfahan-e-as-pontes-sobre-o-rio-zayandeh/

Transportation:

Within the city of Isfahan the distance between the most popular tourist sites, from the Imam Square (officially called Naqsh-e Jahan Square) to the Zayandeh River bridges are reasonable to be made on foot, requiring yet more than two days in the city to quietly enjoy the place.

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