Iran

Isfahan… and the bridges over Zayandeh river

Despite being the third largest city of Iran, Esfahan (or Isfahan), the parks, the gardens, lined trees streets and the Zayandeh River whose green margins attract local people savoring the fresh air of the end of the day, makes us forget that here lives a population of nearly two million inhabitants and that all the way around the landscape has little more to offer than desert.

The city of Esfahan developed over centuries along the Zayandah River, whose waters coming down from the Zagros Maountains irrigate the surrounding fields becoming increasingly green landscape as we approach the city, leaving back rolling plains interspersed with desert mountains. Landscape that despite its vastness that inspires a feeling of expansion and freedom becomes monotonous, inviting to sleep during bus trips.

The Zayandeh River, the largest located in the central Iranian plateau, and unlike many other rivers had flow throughout all the year, since 2010 it has almost dried entirely due to the construction of upstream dams to irrigate farmland, leaving the four famous bridges built during the Safavid dynasty, that ruled Persia from 1501 to 1722, as also the other built more recently, linking banks of a dry clay riverbed where lush vegetation grows.

But the water that reaches Esfahan is enough to keep the green gardens that extend along the river and leafy trees existing along most of the streets of the city center, that beyond the shadow also provide a pleasant atmosphere.

As the sun disappears and the air gets cooler, the population at the end of workday forwards to the gardens by the river, in family or groups of friends, walking, nibbling seeds, chatting, delighting with ice cream… or just alone admiring the calm scenery with the magnificent colours of the sunset that tinges the sky with orange and violet tones. Throughout the various bridges linking the two sides of the central part of Esfahan – Si-o-seh, Khaju and Joubi Bridge – musicians come together to play and sing Iranian songs whose melancholy combined with the warm air and warm colours that light up these centuries-old constructions.

Bridges over the Zayandeh River

Si-o-seh Pol, which although officially be called the Allahverdi Khan Bridge, everybody identifies with “Bridge of 33 Arches” in Farsi ie Si-o-seh, built in 1632
Khaju Bridge (Pol e-Kanju) pedestrian bridge built in 1650
Joubi Bridge (Pol-e Joui) but also called Choobi Bridge, built in 1665
Shahrestan Bridge (Pol-e Shahrestan) built in the 11th century, is the oldest and the one that is furthest from the center of Esfahan

Accommodation:

Esfahan among backpackers is unanimously recognized as the city of Iran where it is most difficult to find affordable accommodation, even for those who don’t mind to give up of some comfort. The option was the Shad Hostel, which from hostel only has the name, being a normal hotel with rooms that can be shared by three people.

Shad Hostel

Address: Chabar Bagh Abbassi Street (just above an ice cream shop)

Single room: 400,000 rials

Double room: 600,000 rials

With bathroom.

Free wi-fi (with the password changing several times a day).

Without breakfast.

The rooms are small and decadent, with the need of some improvement, but still acceptable. The staff does not speak English and shown to be unhelpful. The Shad Hostel, win for the good location, at the same distance from Imam Square and Si-o-seh Pol.

Where to eat:

As it is not easy to find vegetarian food in fast-food restaurants, exept falafel and pizza, so the ash-e reshteh soup was the most frequent options during their stay in Iran, verifying that the recipe change a bit from place to place, and from city to city.

The best of this soups found in Esfahan was in a small shop, located on the right side of Hafez Street, towards those coming from Iman Square, which is served with bread and a topping of Kashk, a sort of sour cream; it costs 30,000 rials.

This shop also serves the halim (haleem) made wheat-based grain, milk and meat (lamb or turkey), which are cooked for a long time and is then crushed until becomes a very thick puree, some times seasoned with saffron, that give the yellow color instead the usual white pale. It can be served plain or with sugar and cinnamon and is often consumed for breakfast… a kind of richer and caloric porridge.

In terms of sweets, Esfahan is known for the fereni, a milk pudding, served with a dates syrup topping… delicious combination. The choice went to the small shop on Hafez Street, Hafez Golha, on the left side of those coming from Imam Square.

Fereni at Hafez Golha in Hafez Street. Esfahan

Transport:

The Kaveh Bus Terminal, the main terminal for long distance buses, is located 7 km north from the city center and wasn’t possible to obtain information on how to get there by public bus. So the solution was the taxi, which cost 100,000 rials (which was divided by 3 people). The alternative is the share-taxis that are not easy to identify but much cheaper, costing half or even one third of the normal price; they usually gathering in usual places but can stop anywhere if so requested. These share-taxis don’t have any identification but are generally very old vehicle, white or gray color.

Modern and well organized, but difficult to orientation, from Kaveh Bus Terminal, departing throughout the day buses to major destinations in the country including Tehran, Shiraz and Yazd; there are many companies to make these connections without the need to reserve with advance unless you want a very specific schedule or if you are traveling at week-end or festive seasons.

Kashan… gardens, mosques, palaces and hammam

Kashan is presented as one of the cities where the main tourist attractions are easily accessible, all situated at a walking distance from the city center, that gather most of the attraction, except Bagh-e Fin located about six kilometers away from the center .

The Historical Houses – locally called Khan-e – are houses that belonged to wealthy families, often merchants. In terms of architecture this houses follow the traditional type of construction, brick masonry, covered with clay plaster that contributes to a uniform brownish tone, similar to the landscape that surrounds the city. With two or more floors, placed around a yard, always with a fountain or a small pool at the center, showing the importance of water in this dry climate.

According to the wealth of the owner, these houses can resemble palaces, not only by size, with more than a yard, as by the detail and complex ornamentation that covered the walls and ceilings. Among the various options in Kashan, with almost all the khan-e and located along the Alavi Street, or nearby, the choice was the Abbasin House, built in the late 18th century and is in good condition, whose geometric and floral motifs that decorate the walls, as well as the harmonious proportions of the various buildings, confer a special grace and lightness.

The Bagh-e Fin, is one of the oldest examples of the traditional Persian gardens, built in the late 16th century, whose structure is very similar to other gardens built under the Mongol domination, after they have invaded Persia, existing in northern India, which Taj Mahal is the most popular example, as also many more in Kashmir.

Architecturally these gardens have a rectangular shape, orthogonally divided into four parts, by narrow water channels that intersect in a quadrangular shape pool. Along these channels, sidewalks are bordered by planted shrubs, flowers and trees in an alignment that enhances the precise and harmonious geometry of space, which is always wide, sober and minimalist, inviting to meditation and introspection.

At the opposite side of the entrance is located the main house, were the ceilings are decorated with elaborate floral and geometric motifs; but may exist other buildings, porches or covers that offer a place to relax, enjoying the freshness inspired by the sound of water coming out of the fountains, showing that important rule of the water in creating an idyllic atmosphere.

The terrace of Sultan Amir Ahmad Hammam is another of the sites, in addition to the bazaar’s rooftop, to overlooks the city. The beginning of the day or the sunset is the best time to visit the rooftop, avoiding the intense light felt during the day. But it is the interior of the hammam is the core of this place, where after a succession of narrow passages and corridors one arrives at the first of the two main rooms of the building: the dressing room (Sarbineh) and the bathhouse (Garmkhaneh).

In the first apartment dominates the ceiling covered with small tiles forming a complex and intricate geometric patterns, radiating from the skylight that provides natural light to the room, emanating tranquility.

The walls and vaulted ceilings are decorated with floral motifs designed in bas-relief on a plaster surface; tiles form geometric patterns formed covering lining the base wall and pillars, in white, yellow and blue colours.

Very close to the central roundabout of Kashan (Kamal al-Molk Square), is the Agha Bozorg Mosque, whose discreet location at the end of a narrow street can go unnoticed. The entrance does not give a proper idea of the proportions of this delicate building that is a mosque but also serves as a madrasah (school of Islamic theology). The interior is delicately decorated and provides a peaceful environment favorable to study of the scriptures.

Agha Bozorg Mosque

Hours: 8 am – 8 pm

Free entrance

Historical Houses and Amir Ahmad Hammam

The ticket to the Historical Houses (Khan and Abbassin, Khan and Tabatabei) and the Sultan Amir Ahmad Hammam is always 150,000 rials.

You can buy a combine ticket for the Hammam and for some of Historical Houses. The ticket counter of Sultan Amir Ahmad Hammam is the best place to ask for information about places and tickets, that are provided by the helpful and diligent staff at the reception desk.

Khan and Abassin + Hammam stood at 250,000 rials.

The Fin Garden is out of this “combine ticket”.

Baghe Fin (Fin Garden):

Hours: 9 am – 5 pm

Ticket: 150,000 rials

Transport:

The city center and the main points of interest are within walking distance of the two places mentioned (Eshan House and Noglhi House), so it is not necessary to use public transport.

To visit the Bagh-e Fin, situated about 6 kilometers from the city center is necessary to go by bus or taxi. From Ayatollah Kashani Street, picking the bus number 327, which last stop is just at the garden entrance.

Bus to Fin Gardens — Bus 327 to Fin Gardens

Wandering through Kashan Bazaar

The bazaar of Kashan was a pleasant and unexpected surprise, even after the impressive antiquity of the Tabriz Bazaar and the huge size of the Tehran Bazaar.

Not too big that becomes confusing and tiring, nor too small that it becomes boring, the Kashan Bazaar shows easy orientation, not too busy in terms of visitors but never too quiet to make a visit boring. Here is possible to find a wide range of products, many traditional from Iran; not only the traditional and ever present carpets but also gold and jewellery, perfumes, wool, blacksmith, wood carving, cooper, religious articles… apart from all the products needed for daily life of who lives here, highlighting clothing and fabrics, scarves and chadors.

Spices, dried fruits and nuts are the most attractive products to a visitor; not only by the scents and colours of the piles of spices, teas, and herbs, but especially by the variety of nuts, almonds, pistachios, sunflowers seeds… as also plums, figs, apricots and the delicious dates that in Iran are the “queens” of dry fruits with stores selling exclusively these product, that have a special place in iranian diet.

Dairy products play also an important role in iranian diet, specially cheese, butter and yoghurt. In the street of the bazaar there are specialised stores selling these products, were the smell of fermented milk and the cold lights that illuminate coolers makes them easy to identify.

Other food stores are selling salt, sugar, honey, sweets, rice, lentils, beans and general groceries, with the trade organised and divided by type of product through the various streets that make up the bazaar.

Here and there appear courtyards that in the center are almost always a dry fountain, sometimes open air other covered; that were old caravanserais, where merchants gathering to make business with conditions to stay overnight and store goods, including space for animals, horses and camels. Currently they are used as commercial spaces, shops, offices and warehouses and are a nice place to rest or even drink a tea, away from the movement of the mains areas of the bazaar.

But between stores, located one after each other, almost all open to the corridors of the bazaar, you can also find sometimes mosques or even hamams, that are public bath places, with sauna and massage that are still popular between locals.

Time passes slowly and smoothly in this bazaar, where traders wait patiently for the arrival of customers, sitting at the entrance or inside the stores, shops or offices, where photography of ancestors prove the antiquity of these family businesses, many specialised in carpets.

But in terms of architecture this bazaar stands up towards ay others. Wandering thought the streets full of shops we come to one of the many caravancerais, but immediately we realise that this place has something special. The Khan Amin al-Dowleh Timche, formed a covered hall, which is accessed by three entrances, presents spacious, high ceiling decorated with a geometric pattern complex, that with the natural light that enter through the skylight in the center of the ceiling, produces a fantastic effect seeming to raise the place up into the sky, leaving us in the ground.

Khan Amin al-Dowleh Timche. Kashan Bazaar

But this bazaar yet keeps another surprise: the visit the terrace. With the intention of having a view over the city I asked a trader how to access the terrace, which in this type of desert architecture is always flat and accessible. I was referred for a narrow stairs and conducted over almost the entire bazaar rooftop, walking on winding paths, up and down ramps, winning steps and gaps, skirting vaults and always walking towards the sun, that was driving behind the mountains.

Through the holes made for light and ventilation, sounds of radios, voices, music and fragmented conversations in a foreign language were coming up to the roof top… while resting pigeons in the upper parts of several vaults seem indifferent to the commercial bustle that dominates the bazaar corridors and the surrounding streets, that with at the evening reached the maximum agitation.

Do not miss the visit to Kashan Bazaar:

Khan Amin al-Dowleh Timche in the morning light
bazaar terrace at the sunset

Schedule:

This one like any other Iranian bazaar opens around 9:30 pm, but not all shops strictly follow this schedule, and extend up to 10 pm. During lunchtime, many traders choose to close the shops, or take this time were the customer movement decrease significantly to take a nap.

But mornings are undoubtedly the best time to visit any bazaar, when the shops are open but there is not much customers; It is also the time when you present the biggest movement of goods, were porters moving swiftly through the various corridors, taking and bringing goods at a pace that contrasts with the calm of visitors.

But at the end of the day, after 5 pm, when temperature is less warm, that the movement reaches its peak, filling not only the bazaar streets but also the surrounding streets.

Transport:

The bazaar is in the city center, reachable on foot from the most popular guesthouses like the House Eshan or Noglhi House.

Kashan

The arrival at each new city implies almost always the challenge of negotiating with taxi drivers the price of the journey to the city center, which apparently seems to be a conspiracy were no collective public transport make this link, where everybody shown useless to provide information on this subject and where the negotiation of the price always part of a disadvantage, with foreigners ignoring the location of the bus station, the distance to the center or the prices usually charged.

After this usual stress, and proof satisfactorily overcome after arduous negotiations, Kashan proved to be a city of smiling, relaxed people, willing to exchange greetings and to practice English with the usual questions about: country, name, sites visited, if I am traveling alone, for how long, if like Iran, etc …

Kashan appears in the tourist “map” not only by the amazing architecture of the bazaar, but also by Bagh-e-Fin, one of the oldest examples of this type of Persian gardens, and the high concentration of so-called historical houses, which are exquisite palaces built according to traditional architecture region.

The narrow streets entrenched by high walls designed to provide maximum shade, with discrete doors leading to patios, around which the houses, low, dark and with small windows are arranged, and ocher tones that cover the plaster walls and the roofs made of clay come to remind us how close we are to the desert.

Wind towers, ingenious system that allows ventilate the houses with fresh air, come out from homogeneous skyline of the city, dominated by houses of two or three floors, where the terraces form a clay color mantle that stretches till the mountains that surround part of Kashan.

The city of Kashan with his laid-back vibe, friendly people and interesting places to visit most of then easily reach at walking distance, were pleasant and very relaxed, and were the stay at the friendly atmosphere of the Khan-e Esahnb guest house played also a important rule.

Sapateiro nas ruas de Kashan — Cobbler at Kashan streets

Accommodation:

Eshan Historical Guest House (Khan and Esahn)

Fazel and Navaghi street

(opposite the Agha Bozorg Mosque)

+98361 444 6833

www.ehsanhouse.com

Bedroom with 6 beds but very spacious by 500,000 (negotiating could go down to 400,000 rials) with breakfast included in buffet style (fruit, bread, egg, cheese, butter, jams, honey and tea). Nice bathrooms and showers.

Good location, halfway between the bazaar and Historical Houses.

Free Wi-fi.

Better reserve because this is a popular place mentioned in the guidebooks.

Eshan Historical Guest House (Khan-e Esahn)

Another option is to Noglhi House, very close to Eshan House, following the street on the left side of the Agha Bozorg Mosque, following the small arrows that identify the guesthouse that are on the walls; practice the same prices and that presents equally enjoyable.

Where to eat:

For vegetarians and beyond, the traditional soup ash-e reshteh cooked and served at a family style place, situated in Bab Afzal Street, is a delicious option as well as a possibility of interaction with the local population; walked from the Kamal-al-Molk Square, this small restaurant is on the right, being necessary to walk a little; the best option is to go asking traders because everyone knows this place.

Since the space is tiny, you probably need to share one of the two existing tables in the place.

The meal costs 20,000 rials (about € 0.50) and is served in a considerable amount.

ash soup at Kashan — Proud cook of ash-e reshteh soup at Bab Afzal Street in the center of Kashan

Transport:

The best option to reach Kashan is the bus, existing plenty throughout the day, as this town is on the route between Tehran and Esfahan.

The journey takes around 4 hours.

The ticket cost 125,000 rials in VIP.

From the city center to the bus station, the only the solution found was the taxi which costs 50.000 rials, because apparently there are no public buses to make this link.

Situated about 80 kilometers from Kashan, lies the village of Abyaneh which is a popular day trip, but given the lack of public transport the journey has to be made by taxi, which puts this destination out of my “route”. The guesthouses in Kashan organize tours or alternatively you can use one of the shared-taxis that follow towards Esfahan.

Masuleh and the mountains

The rain falls constantly outside, hiding the sounds of nature and people that have been forced to take refuge to the uncomfortable weather. But this absence of sounds brings a moment of calm to the spirit, a form of introspection.

With the slow rain, return the cock crowing, the tweeting of the birds and the chattering of people coming from the valley and going up the hill, through trees that are losing leaves spreading a brown- yellowed robe all over the ground, reminding us of the arrival of autumn.

Masuleh is a small village situated in slopes of Mount Talesh, in Gilan Province, about 380 km from Tehran, where the typical Iran landscape, desert and dry, give rise to covered forest green, in a rural setting which is a balm to those who live in big cities or those arriving by Tehran. The houses, uniformly colored clay, are arranged along the hillside, separated by narrow streets and staircases, where neither car nor bikes have access, making it the most calm and relaxing environment. An ingenious architecture, the roofs of houses, built on a way to create a flat surface where, what appears to be just a street or a sidewalk is at the same time the roof of the house situated on the street below.

Here, despite the low altitude just over 1000 meters, the weather changes a lot compared to the more plain and low areas visited before, clearly feeling it is the onset of winter, not only by the fog and rain that were a constant for these two days, but also the temperatures that drop at night demanding for adequate winter clothing, even in early October.

Masuleh, with its small population not much more than 500 inhabitants, don’t have special attractions beyond the original and unusual mosque and walk through the bazaar streets, with shops offering local products from handicrafts, tea and medicinal herbs.

But the slow pace of village life and the contact with nature made the short stay at this village a pleasant memory.

casa de chá local, onde também de manhã é servido o pequeno-almoço tradicional, ovos mexidos com molho de tomate picante, que é acompanhado com pão e chá. Masuleh

Accommodation:

Although there are some hotels, the most common solution is to rent a place to stay to local people, following the sign or just ask to someone in the streets that for sure will point a place to ask or even call someone to help you. Prices are negotiable but it is difficult to get a room for two people for less than 600,000 rials (with toilet and kitchen), with the more frequent prices between 800,000 and 1.000,000 rials for a double room. Prices vary depending on the greater or less demand, so week ends and summer are the busiest periods where Masuleh attracts visitors, many coming Tehran, running away from pollution and seeking refuge in the fresh mountain air.

Where to eat:

There are many choices in this small village, almost all serving kebab in the chicken and beef variants.

Alternatively it is possible to find ash soup, made of vegetables and noodles, which is a comforting option for the fresh mountain air.

The mirza ghasemi, is a typical dish of Guillain region made of roasted eggplant, that is smashed and cooked with tomatoes and onions, that along with the ash are two of the vegetarian dishes of Iranian cuisine that are easier to find in restaurants.

Passing through Fouman makes the obligatory stop at one of dozens or even hundreds of shops that produce and sell a traditional sweet of this region, the Koloocheh, cookie filled with a sugary paste. And it is undoubtedly the main reason that so many people stop at Fouman. It is worth asking for the best factory of these cakes, which according to the taxi driver who brought us, is located in one of the city’s roundabouts and where people line while waiting for the Koloocheh come out of the oven.

Koloocheh, doces tradicionais de Funam, e que fazem desta povoação ponto de paragem obrigatório de quem visita a região de Gilan

Transport:

Masuleh situated about 380 km from Tehran is easily accessible by bus, and there are, however, two possible itineraries:

Coming from Tabriz: Tabriz – Qazvin – Rasht – Masuleh

Coming from Tehran: Tehran – Fouman – Masuleh

From Tehran to Fouman is about 5h by bus, costing 150,000 rials in a normal bus. Buses begin service early in the morning, and still late in the evenings, at least until 11 pm.

From Fouman to Masuleh, there are two options: minibus 17,000 rials or shared-taxi, 350,000 rials (price for 4 people), both options have the values posted on board outside of Masuleh, although the value inscribed in western numbers is not actualized.

It is possible that the bus does not stop at Fouman bus station, leaving passengers on the main road, where some taxis waiting. Hence it is necessary to use the taxi to get to the Fouman Bus Terminal, that distance no more than 3 km; the price must be negotiated, and if possible use a shared-taxi.

If the driver insists on going directly to Masuleh, arguing that there is no mini-buses, insist on the minibus because the price difference is significant and the buses run all year except in winter when snow blocks the road.

Preços de mini-bus e shared-taxis de Masuleh para Funam, afixada à entrada da aldeia de Masuleh

Tehran… from bazaars to secret parties

Tehran with more than 16 million inhabitants (including suburbs), and heavy and polluted air resulting from the vehicles that clog the main arteries of the city appears to be unattractive to most visitors who only here are the minimum time required on arrival and departure from the country.

In fact the size and dispersion, the city of Tehran is not friendly to wandering, and the main places of interest are far from each other. However the Metro network covers much of the city, proving to be effective and cheap way and easy way to move around.

The stay was in the northern part of Tehran, near Tajrish, where the city begins to climb the slopes of the surrounding hills, enjoying a more ventilated atmosphere and less polluted air, compared to the zone further south, where lies the Grand Bazaar. The north of the city, wealthier and more modern, the black chador is less popular and scarves covering the hair, reveal more than they hide.

In Tajrish Square begins the longest street in the Middle East, Valiasr Street, with over 17 kilometers in length, developing the north-south direction to Rahahan Square, dividing the city in half. Built by Shah Reza Pahlavi, and renamed after the 1979 Islamic revolution, is now one of the main shopping locations in the city, attracting many shops of international brands. Here, not far from Tajrish Square is the Cinema Museum, that presents a selection of more alternative circuit movies, that surrounded by a pleasant garden makes you forget the incessant car movement passing in front of the gates.

The Grand Bazaar of Tehran presented itself, as the name implies “great”, too big in fact, dispersed and difficult to orientation; a succession of modern and uncharacteristic buildings, where most of the area is occupied by clothing shops “Made in China” style, not very attractive and with a certain lack of character.

However, not far is another type of trade in a succession of small shops aligned along the Marvi Street, where you can find a wide variety of imported products, from groceries, clothing, sunglasses, cosmetics, perfumes, etc… showing another facet of local businesses.

Along the street that leads to the main entrance of the bazaar, a 15 Khordad Avenue (Metro Sation: Panzdah-e Khordad), back-filling with movement and excitement that grows throughout the morning, with street vendors hawking their products, leading shippers and bringing goods and hundreds of people shopping, creating a lively atmosphere, where there is always time to take a break to enjoy an ice cream.

But a visit to this capital had the adventure with the unexpected opportunity to get in one of the famous secret parties that make this famous city; in a country where alcohol, nightclubs and many more things are forbidden, these parties organised in apartments are free of all these rules. An paradox to what is lived in public: here the alcohol flows freely, the atmosphere is euphoric party and women, leaving aside the Islamic heavy “dress code”, wear fashion clothing, exhibit hairstyles and heavy make-up.

Tehran, a city full of contrasts between the muslim tradition and modernity of a capital, deserve a more detailed visit, because like any big city, it keeps its hidden charms of who here does not linger.

Esculturas nos jardins do Cinema Museum de Tehran

Transport:

Coming from Tabriz, the arrival in Tehran is in Terminal-e Qarb (near Azadi Square easy to identify by the giant arc), with connection to Metro network (Meydan-e Azadi – Yellow Line).

For destinations to the south, as Kashan, Esfahan, Yazd … buses leave from Terminal-e Jonub, located in the southern part of the city, also accessible by Metro (Terminal-e Jonoob – Red Line)

But beware, Tehran disposes of 4 terminals of long-haul buses, targeting different regions of the country, so it is necessary to obtain accurate information about what the appropriate terminal:

Terminal-e Qarb

Address: Qarb passenger terminal, Azadi Sq.

Terminal-e Jonoob

Address: Jonub passenger terminal, Mohammad Bokharaie St., St. Shoosh

Terminal-e Shargh

Address: Shargh passenger terminal, Damavand St., Tehranpars

Beihaghi Terminal

Address: Beyhaghi passenger terminal, Arjantine Sq.

For arrivals by plane or part, the Metro network also has access to Mehrabad Airport but not at Imam Khomeini International Airport, the main airport of the city.

Bus Terminal-e Qarb; entrada da estação de Metro — Bus Terminal-e Qarb; entrance to Metro

Accommodation:

In the cozy home of a friend, savoring the generous hospitality of an Iranian family … couldn’t be better!

Where to eat:

Like any big city, in Tehran is a bit of everything in terms of restaurants, which in addition to traditional kebaks, has much more to offer not missing the international food options.

In the visit to the Grand Bazaar, cannot miss one of the most popular places to eat falafel in Tehran: na Naser Khosvo Street, near the corner with Marvi Street, were around lunchtime customers line up. The site has no tables, only serving falafel in long bread, on take-away system, so the small square in front serves as a location to seat and taste the Iranian version of this typical Arabic snack.

Tehran_Naser Khosvo_Falafel_DSC_1725 — popular falafel place at Never Khosvo Street, close to the Grand Bazaar

Another option is the traditional Iranian soup, ash, made in the base grain, beans, lentils and some vegetables, and forming a thick aromatic broth. One of the best of these soups is in Valiasr Street at Tajrish zone where fried onion flakes and a taste of sour cream …

Ash, sopa iraniana à base de logominosas e legumes — Ash, iranian soup with beans and vegetables

Between Tabriz and Tehran… on the road again!

“Everything happens for a reason”… and so it happened! After Tabriz the next destination was the village of Masuleh, located in the foothills of Mount Talesh where the humid climate turns dry landscape in a green forest.

For over four hours, they were passing by the bus window desert landscapes almost with out vegetation, where the flat straight road is the only trace of human presence. Untouched plains intercepted by dry river beds, interrupted by small, gentle hills, which when approaching exhibit different textures, soft colors ranging from beige to brown, from gray to reddish shades. Occasionally arises a village of brick built houses whose color is difficult to distinguish from the surrounding landscape, which maintains the same look desert.

But “destiny” would change the turns to plans drawn by “man”, making the driver of the bus between Tabriz and Tehran, forget to leave me in an intermediate stop, Qazvin where it would change bus to reach Masuleh. The mistake was only detected upon arrival to the outskirts of big capital, where there was no way to return to Qazvin.

I found myself unexpectedly in the gigantic bus station in a city with over 15 million inhabitants, a few days ahead of schedule, without preparation, without plans, without a map or even route.

But believing that everything happens for a reason, this was the way to meet with a friend, with later shared with me the trip to Masuleh, making this a special itinerary in the trip by Iran. An inspected situation on the course of the events that reveals to be a balm to the lonely, grey and lonely days spent in Tabriz.

Transport:

The trip Tabriz – Tehran takes about 4 hours but maybe take more time if the arrival in Tehran coincides with the rush-hour, with road congestion.

From Tabriz Bus Terminal (the only one in town for long distance buses) buses depart roughly every hour, with several companies doing this connection. The first buses leave by 6 am and last for 24 hours.

Bus ticket costs 155,000 rials.

VIP Bus Tabriz - Tehran — VIP Bus Tabriz – Tehran

Normal Bus Esfahan - Shiraz — Normal Bus Esfahan – Shiraz

VIP bus Yazd - Kerman — VIP bus Yazd – Kerman

Normal Bus Maku - Tabriz — Normal Bus Maku – Tabriz

Buses in Iran are a great choice for long-distance travel, and there are regular services, with good frequency between major cities: Tabriz, Tehran, Esfahan, Shiraz, Yazd, Mashad, Kerman, Bandar Abbas… as we move away from this itinerary, the offer is less in terms of schedules and sometimes the quality of buses decrease.

The main roads are good, flat and with few curves, often with two lanes, making a comfortable ride; however existing speed brakes can often be quite disturbing during sleep. In mountainous areas, such as Kurdistan, or near the Caspian Sea roads become more sinuous, but usually with good pavement.

The prices are very attractive, with travel between major cities to costing between 100,000 and 200,000 rials (approximately 3:05 €; Out.2015 values).

The price varies depending on the kilometers and the type of service: normal or VIP and did not differ significantly depending on the transport company.

In the VIP service is provided a small snack (biscuits, cake, chocolate and packaged juice); in normal service sometimes tea and water.

When the trip coincides with mealtime and frequent stop for meals.

VIP buses have only 3 passengers per row, with wide and comfortable sets that look more like sofas, with armrest, reclining chairs and some with support that allows elevate your feet. Recommended for overnight trips because the price is not significantly higher.

Normal buses have 4 passengers per row, usually without armrest between seats.

In either option the space between seats is generous, allowing stretch your legs without problems, even for taller people.

All have air-conditioner, which not being too strong can offer enough comfort.

If we are to make a night of long-distance travel (5 or more hours in length) is recommended to confirm the departure time of the last bus, and if possible buy the ticket in advance, at least one day.

Festive seasons such as Nowruz – New Year’s Eve according to the Persian calendar – which coincides with the beginning of spring, are times when the bus, train and plane tickers and difficult to get, so traveling in Iran during is time implies careful planning.

When the number of passengers is not enough to fill a bus, is often different companies join efforts and move all the passengers a single bus, which may delay somewhat the departure and consequently the arrival, although the delay are not usually more than half hour.

Stops right outside the cities to collect passengers (and occasionally goods) are also common in day trips, but virtually nonexistent in night trips.

Tabriz: the carpets and the bazaar

Tabriz was the first stop on a month trip in Iran, and had the heavy responsibility to create a first impression of a vast and diverse country, stretching from the Caspian Sea to the Persian Gulf, from Turkey to Afghanistan, from Iraq to Pakistan, also bordering Turkmenistan, Armenia and Azerbaijan.

The city of Tabriz, that was capital of Iran, but because of its geographical position that formed very vulnerable to the attack of the Ottoman Empire, is now the capital of Azerbaijan province, where a significant part of the population is Azevi, constituting the largest ethnic group of Iran.

Tabriz an obligatory stopping point on the Silk Road, is today one of the oldest bazaars in the Middle East and the largest covered bazaar in the world, continuing to play a key role in commercial activity in the country, especially the trade of carpets … the legendary Persian carpets!!

The bazaar is clearly dominated by carpet business, which can be found in wool or silk, with geometric or floral motifs, with portraits or with religious inscriptions… business whereby Tabriz has worldwide fame. In parallel to the carpet business exist a great variety of stores that are associated with its production, selling raw materials, both the cotton yarns serving as weft as wool that are woven most carpets.

Dispite much of the area is dedicated to carpets, the Bazaar of Tabriz has much more to offer: areas dedicated to the sale of fabrics and clothing, specially the scarves to cover the head, who are here in an endless number of variations. Sometimes we are attracted by the smell of spices, the shinny honey pots, the brightness of dates, raisins, prunes and other dried fruits, the piles of walnuts, almonds and pistachios… a generous and endless variety.

The visit to Kabud Mosque, called the Blue Mosque (100,000 rials), despite the weight of seniority involving the building built in 1465, proved to be uninteresting. Ark-e Alishah, a huge and massive arch that is imposed in the city center has also little to offer. Lost in the intricate maze of streets that make up the bazaar is the Jameh Mosque, whose interior offers silence and comfort, in opposition to the feverish agitation made by porters, pushing cars by hand, bringing and taking good, in a movement that only slows at lunch time.

A city with a long history, where the bazaar was the center off all attentions, deserving more than a view, in different times of day, showing different light, different rhythms, different pulsars as the bazaar were a living organism.

Leaving the city center, a visit to the surrounding area of Valiasr Square, revealed another facet of Tabriz, more modern and cosmopolitan, with sophisticated shops, cafes, restaurants and bakeries. A wealthier Tabriz where the way of dressing, more relaxed and colourful, reveals a less conservative and traditional mindset.

Zona junto à Valiasr Square — Near Valiasr Square

The four days spent in Tabriz served as adapting to a different culture, to understand the rules of social behaviour, where segregation between sexes in buses and other public places is strictly respected, where the scarf used to cover the head, is not only required at streets, but as well inside the guest houses. The dress code also requires some attention, especially for women and is not limited to the head scarf, including long sleeves, loose clothing and covered legs… yet the rules are always more flexible for foreigners. Also time for the necessary adaptation to food, where meat dominates most of the meals served in restaurants. It was also time to adapt to the money, where the “zeros” dominate the value of banknotes, where almost nothing is bought with less than 1000 rials and where to return for a 50€ bill makes us holding more than a million rials… basically millionaires.

Tourism Office:

The Tabriz touristm office, located on the first floor of one of the buildings in the pedestrian zone that serves as the main entrance to the bazaar, is a required stop for those visiting the city, where the friendly and helpful staff provide all kinds information, whether from excursions (organized by the tourist office), the local money exchange, public buses to different places to visit (including for the Bus Terminal Tabriz), restaurants, etc …

Tabriz may be the base for day visits to neighboring regions, with Kodovan, a town whose houses are built on the rock, one of the most popular; given the similarity with the recently visited Cappadocia was not selected in this itinerary.

Posto de Turismo de Tabriz — Tabriz Tourism Office

Posto de Turismo de Tabriz. Horário — Tabriz Tourism Office. Schedule

Accommodation:

The center of Tabriz, between the main entrance of the bazaar and the Imam Khomeini Street is located the Ferdowsi Street, which concentrates a large number of guesthouses, with cheaper prices. There are single, double or shared room, usually with shared toilets. Prices vary widely, depending on the conditions offered in terms of ventilation (with rooms without windows) and cleaning, so it is worth seeing a few rooms and check prices before making a decision.

The choice went to the Mashhad Guest House that wasn’t the best price but show up clean and fresh, despite the minimum dimensions of the room.

Mashhad Guest House

Ferdowsi Street

Single room: 250,000 Rials + 60,000 rials shower

Free wi-fi… slow, very slow… and just at the reception room

Almost no English is spoken by receptionist and staff

Where to eat:

One of the very popular choices in terms of street food found in Tabriz was made with baked potatoes, crumbled on a piece of bread, adding boiled egg, tomato and some fresh herbs, form a roll… that fills you up as a proper meal.

Along the streets of the bazaar, some sellers of sweet potatoes and other roots cooked in sugar syrup, spread the sweet aroma wrapped in a steam cloud.

Inside the bazaar there are also a few restaurants, but given the labyrinthine nature of the space where the guidance is not easy, find these sites is a little to chance or delivered to the olfactory sensitivity.

Snack de rua em frente à entrada principal do bazaar — Street food at the entrance of Tabriz Bazaar

Transport:

Bus to Valiasr Square: number 159; the stop is street outside the bazaar Jomhuriye Eslami Street.

Bus to Tabriz Bus Terminal (long distance buses): number 104; the stop is on Amir St., a street perpendicular to Ferdowsi St.

Apparently you need a card for travel on city buses, which is validated electronically on every trip to the entrance of the bus. But you can pay directly to the driver, between 500-1000 rials; in the case of women the situation is more complicated because after entering through the front door and pay the tickets, you must exit and re-enter through the back door to the area reserved for women. Often the driver did not charge ticket … maybe to make things easier, perhaps because I’m a foreigner …?!?!?

Isfahan… and the bridges over Zayandeh river

Bridges over the Zayandeh River

Accommodation:

Where to eat:

Transport:

Kashan… gardens, mosques, palaces and hammam

Agha Bozorg Mosque

Historical Houses and Amir Ahmad Hammam

Baghe Fin (Fin Garden):

Transport:

Wandering through Kashan Bazaar

Do not miss the visit to Kashan Bazaar:

Schedule:

Transport:

Kashan

Accommodation:

Where to eat:

Transport:

Masuleh and the mountains

Accommodation:

Where to eat:

Transport:

Tehran… from bazaars to secret parties

Between Tabriz and Tehran… on the road again!

Tabriz: the carpets and the bazaar

search

Categories

Recent Posts:

Iran

Bridges over the Zayandeh River

Accommodation:

Where to eat:

Transport:

Agha Bozorg Mosque

Historical Houses and Amir Ahmad Hammam

Baghe Fin (Fin Garden):

Transport:

Do not miss the visit to Kashan Bazaar:

Schedule:

Transport:

Accommodation:

Where to eat:

Transport:

Accommodation:

Where to eat:

Transport:

Footer

search

Tags

Categories

Recent Posts: