Southeast Asia

Borobudur… without visiting the temple!

Borobudur raises a mix of conflict feelings. In one side this structure is the biggest Buddhist temple in the world. In the other hand, the price of the ticket raised recently to 20$ for foreigners, more than any museum and monument in Europe. So what to do?!?!… blow up the budget to get the ticket or see the temple from a far distance?

For a while that the issue of price discrimination between national and foreigners is popping up in my mind but with the time I kind of get used to this, as usually, the price is not substantial if your currency is euros or dollars. But sometimes, in places that are classified as World Heritage by UNESCO, this difference is significant, excluding many people that are traveling but don’t have a big budget, making the so-called “world heritage” accessible only for a few. (See my text about Lions Rock in Sri Lanka). So as also a way to stand my point of view I decide not condone with this strategy that I consider discriminatory.

So I choose the backpacker option of seeing the Borobudur temple from a far distance… the most popular is the Setumbu Hill, but I went a bit far up in the mountain to Sukmojoyo viewpoint where you have better views to the mounts that surround the valley: Yup, Merapi and Merbabu volcano. But… there’s many times a “but” in the stories and the clouds hide the sunrise wrapping the volcanoes. But this cloudy sunrise left a thick layer of mist that took a long time to raise from the ground, creating a magic and enchanted landscape.

sunrise from Sukmojoyo hill, nearby Borobudur

So from my experience, the conclusion is: or you spend the 20 dollars and join the crown to visit the Borobudur temple… or if not it doesn’t worth much to move there just to see the sunrise and the silhouette of the temple at a far distance.

So basically, in my opinion going to Borobudur without get in the temple is like going to Rome and don’t see the Pope!!! 😉

About the village of Borobudur, we can say that is not much more that a stop over in the tourists tour that visit the temple, with nothing specially characteristic that worth to visit. The local market, nearby the bus terminal has the typical lively atmosphere but with the vendors, exploited by the tourism, become a bit pushy.

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bakso soup in a vegetarian option with tofu instead of meatballs, Candirejo

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Where to sleep in Borobudur:

There are some accommodations in Borobudur, but the prices are a bit inflated due to the proximity to the temple, so I choose the Casa Java Homestay, located in the village of Candirejo, about 3 km from Borobudur. The owner, Dino is a very friendly host making all possible for you to feel comfortable in his homestay.

There are rooms, with and without toilet and a dorm that cost 80.000 Rp per person.

It really worth to stay here, in a quiet and peaceful rural area, full of nature, a river and bamboo forest… a nice place to make short walks. Here you can rent a scooter or hire the service of a tour guide (the cost is slightly the same) and move around.

Address: Candirejo, Brangkal, Borobudur, Candirejo, Borobudur

Phone: 0815-4814-3051

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Casa Java Homestay, located in the village of Candirejo, about 3 km from Borobudur

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How to visit Borobudur:

If you are in Yogyakarta you can rent a motorbike and start the trip to Borobudur around 3 a.m. The scooter costs 50.000 Rp/day. At Borobudur, you can decide if you just see the sunrise from the Setumbu Hill (need a 30.000 Rp ticket) or visit the temple.
If you cannot manage to ride a motorbike you can join one of many tours available in Yogyakarta, that cost around 100.000 Rp to 140.000 Rp but that only include transportation and sometimes a breakfast.
You can spend one night in Borobudur and wake up early to see the sunrise from Setumbu Hill and visit the temple after that, as it opens at 6 a.m. and the sunrise is around 5.30 a.m.
There are lots and lots of people visiting the temple, arriving on big buses during all day, most of them Indonesians, as the ticket id very cheap for local people. So don’t expect to be alone.

The temple saw from a far distance. Borobudur

How to go from Yogyakarta do Borobudur:

There are buses leaving every 15 minutes from Terminal Jombor, located in the north of Yogyakarta. It’s a small terminal and is easy to spot the bus to Borobudur.

The trip takes 1 hours and the ticket cost 20.000 Rp.

Terminal Jombor at Yogyakrta from the buses to Borobudur departure

Yogyakarta… the batik and the graffiti

Yes, the batik, this simple technique of dyeing fabrics that results in elaborate patterns, is definitively what pops up to your eyes as you arrive in Yogyakarta, or Jogja (jogh-jah) as it is locally called . But this city has much more to offer than this, being modern and cosmopolitan, but maintaining the charm of the traditional neighborhoods, where the pace of life with chickens here and there makes us forget that we are in a city.

Yogyakarta definitely is a city with charm with many things going on, where you can spend several days or even weeks without get bored.

The areas around the Taman Sari (Water Palace) and the kampung Kotagede are perfect for a random walk through the narrow alleys, too small for cars where only the motorbikes engines break the quietness of the place. Surrounding the Sultan Palace and limited by walls, the Kraton is a perfect place to wander along the grid of streets where the houses, painted with bright colours, have trees and nice gardens.

Due to the proximity to the temples of Borobudur and Prambanan, Yogyakarta becomes the most touristic city of Java, but it deserves all the attention, and the high concentration of tourism, don’t change much its character.

But Jalan Malioboro, the commercial street of Yogyakarta, is strongly orientated to the tourism, not just foreigners but also from Indonesia, with the sidewalks full of souvenirs sellers, generally with batik articles, dozens of becaks (cyclo-rickshaws) asking “where you go” and a lot of touts with an annoying conversation trying to push you art galleries or shops.

A bit less popular between the tourists is the Kotagede, a cozy and quiet neighborhood, but where the market (Pasar Kota Gede) gatherer all the activity, mainly early mornings, with the sellers occupying also the nearby streets. A vibrant and lively market where we are welcomed with nice smiles and a lot of curiosity. A good place out of the tourist route to find local and authentic lifestyle and where the usual question “were are you from?” just bring curiosity and joyfulness when I answer “Portugal”.

Pasar Kotagede. Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta stands up for it’s cultural and artistic activity that is visible in the vibrant street art that is spread a bit everywhere in the city, as also for the number of galleries, antique shops, cultural centers and art associations. The street art here is alive and creative, far from being institutionalized or controlled like you find in Penang, filling empty spaces of the city with a colorful creativity and a sharp imagination. There are a lot of trendy places to hangout from vintage shops, stylish cafes or concept restaurants, as also quite some art events away form the touristic gamlean concerts or traditional Javanese dance shows.

Where to sleep in Yogyakarta:

There are many options far all budgets… from sophisticated villas to backpacker’s hostels, from the formal hotels to family style guesthouses.

I stay on the south part of the city (south of Kraton) on the Mantrijeron neighborhoods. Mantrijeron has a good balance between local lifestyle and tourist facilities, and away from the main busy roads, you can find nice places to stay. My choice was the Losmanos Hostel a recently open hostel with different kinds of accommodation: dorm 60.000 Rp, single room 110.000 Rp and double room 150.000 Rp. All with shared toilet, by the way are super cool and with a nice decoration… and hot water! The dorm is very-very basic, with just a mattress, a pillow and a fan… there aren’t lockers.

The wi-fi is very good and the staff is very friendly and helpful. This place with a nice concept and decoration is giving is first steps but already has a good vibe!

There’s a link for a map made by the crew that runs the business, Emi and Aldy, which give you the location the most important things in town, from sightseeing to restaurants, from supermarkets to laundry, from moneychanger to souvenirs shops. Very useful information based on local the experience! Thanks folks for this!

Address: Jl. Tirtodipuran, Gang Lesmana, Mantrijeron, Kota Yogyakarta

Phone: (0274) 4221665

But watch out: the price of the accommodation can change according to weekend and holidays!!!! So make it clear before you check-in.

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Where to eat in Yogyakarta:

Basically, I just follow the Emi and Aldy map from Losmanos Guest House… there’s a lot of good tips on this map, most of them located near Mantrijeron and kampung Kraton areas.

Mirang Raya, Ruman Makan Massakan Padang (Jl Parangtritis, 117). Tasty food with many options and cheap price.
Duta Minang, Ruman Makan Massakan Padang (Jl Mayjen D. I. Panjaitan, 50). The classic padang food with many delicious options in a more sophisticated atmosphere but also with the cheap prices.
Gudeg Bu Hj. Rini (Gudeg Wijilan). Jl Wilijan, 7… if you visit Yogyakarta you must try the gudeg… a jackfruit curry that despite the less attractive look is delicious!!! Along with this street, you’ll find a dozen of gudeg restaurants, but this one was recommended by local people and has friendly prices and a casual environment.
Don’t miss the street-food along the streets of Yogyakarta… depending on the time of the day, you can find different types of food.

Gudeg... dosen't look appealing but is delicious this jack fruit curry! — Gudeg… doesn’t look appealing but is delicious this jack fruit curry!

Gudeg... — Gudeg menu in one of the best and cheap places at Yogyakarta…

There are street food everywhere around the city, and on a short visit is impossible to have a stomach to try everything… but in these particular places I found the tastiest options:

Jalan Kemasan on the way to Kotagede Market (Pasar Kotagede), early mornings. Inside the market there are also food stalls.
Along Jalan Malioboro you find many food stalls with bakso (meatballs soup) and mie (noodles) options mainly concentrated on the top north of the street. There are as also food hawkers selling lotek (a mix of vegetables with peanut sauce on top… my favorite!), mainly located in the south part of the street.
There are also some street-food stalls along Jl Mayjen D. I. Panjaitan, with soups, nasi and gado-gado.

Check more details at: A shot guide to hang ou in Yogyakarta

Sweets and snacks at Pasar Kotagede, that is one of the many options of street food available in Yogyakarta

How to move around in Yogyakarta:

Is a big city to do on foot!

The main train station (Tugu) is nearby the center of Yogyakarta but the bus terminals are located far out, like Jombor (buses to Borobudur).

There are a few options to move around Yogyakarta:

Trans Jogja: modern buses with air-con, that link the main points of the city, like the bus terminals, train station, the historic center, immigration, airport, etc… It’s fast, confortable and efficient. But the bus stops are located far away from each other’s, and you always need to walk a bit until finding one. There’s a map online where you can see the bus number and routes, but at each bus halt, there’s a helper that sell the tickets and will help you. The ticket costs 3.500 Rp, no matter the distance. Usually, I didn’t wait more than 15 minutes for a bus.
If you want to save some time, special for longer distances, the GoJek is the best, a moto-taxi service that you can call by a mobile application. A ride from the center to the immigration or airport cost around 000 Rp.
Rent a bicycle… this is the most enjoyable way to visit the Kraton and the small alleys of the old part of the city, but the main streets have quite some traffic… but bicycles are still very popular between local population.
“becaks”, a cycle rickshaws, are everywhere around the city, usually chilling at street corners while waiting for clients.

becaks (cyclo-rickshaws) are very popular way to moce around between the local people... as almost anyone move on foot — “becaks” (cyclo-rickshaws) are very popular way to moce around between the local people… as almost anyone move on foot

Arriving in Yogyakarta by train:

If you arrive by train you’ll probably end your journey at Tugu Train Station. The exit is not clear and maybe you will need to cross some lines and platforms until you find the exit. As you arrive at the street the usual ojeks and taxi drivers will approach you. The way is not clear and you’ll find yourself on a busy street, full of traffic, motorbikes and people.

But no stress, you just need to walk left, 400 meters until you reach a big T-junction. If you turn right you are at Malioboro Street (Jalan Malioboro) the commercial center of the Yogyakarta.

But probably you don’t want to stay in this area as the accommodation is more expensive and the concentration of touts trying to push you to art galleries or batik shops is high.

So, if you are planning to go to the south part of Yogyakarta, south from Kraton, you can get a Trans Jogja bus, at the bus stand located on the left side of the road, about 50 meters from the junction. At the bus stand (halt) the staff will help to get the right bus to your destination.

Trans Jogja: modern buses with air-con, that link the main points of the city that are the easiest and cheapest way to move around Yogyakarta — Bust stand of Trans Jogja at Malioboro street, the closest halt from the Tugu Train Station: modern buses with air-con, that link the main points of the city that are the easiest and cheapest way to move around Yogyakarta

Malang… a rest after the volcanoes

Not on the top of the must see in Java Island, Malang is a good place to chill for a couple of days between the intensity of the Ijen and Bromo volcano and the cosmopolitan of Yogyakarta.

And Malang as a certain charm, with trees creating a comfortable shade in almost all streets, and with many building still area preserves the colonial style, of a city established by the Dutch in the end of 18th century. But despite this heritage, there’s a modern lifestyle in Malang that match smoothly with the muslim hijab, with the younger population hanging out in stylish cafes and modern style bakeries.

For a bit a local lifestyle there’s a big market, Pasar Besar where the food area opens very early in the morning offering a good opportunity to try some of the homemade local sweets, in one of the many booths inside the market. Later, as the pace and agitation of the market slow down, is time for the shops located in the alleys around start to open and show up their products on the sidewalks.

There is also a birds and pets market, the Pasar Senggo and a few meters away from the flower market, Pasar Bunga, located in a cozy and more humble area of Malang, where you can easily get lost on the small narrow streets of the Kidul Dalem neighborhood. This characteristic area, with small colourful houses along narrow streets, away from the traffic chaos full of friendly people was a grateful surprise in Malang where the smiles are not so common. Kidul Dalem is located around Jalan Aris Munandar, Jalan Kyai Haji Zainul Arifin and Jalan Pasar Besar. One of the entrances to Kidul Dalem neighborhood is just in front of the Dewan Kesenian Malang Art Centre. You just need to get out of the main roads, passing by one of the gates, and get lost in this laid back neighborhood.

Malang_DSC_5455 — Malang, where is easy to find a presence of the colonial times in the arquitecture

One of the markets in Malang is dedicated to the commerce of birds, that is a strong hobby in Javanese culture

A street food stall on the center of Malang

Kidul Dalem... a cosy neighbourhood in the center of Malang, — Kidul Dalem… a cosy neighbourhood in the center of Malang, away from the noisy and busy main streets

Kidul Dalem... small streets with colorful houses, flowers and friendly smiles — Kidul Dalem… small streets with colorful houses, flowers and friendly smiles

At the Pasar Besar you can find the ingredients that make the Indonesian food so tasty. The tempeh, sold in pack or in big blocks is a constant presence in the Indonesia gastronomy

Malang_Javanese coffee_DSC_5469 — drinking coffee is part of the Indonesian culture, and here in Malang, is also a trendy with the youngest hanging around in stylish cafes

How to go from Cemoro Lawang (Probolingo) to Malang:

Bus to Probolingo: 35.000 Rp per person but if is not full (15 people) at departure time, the total cost of the ride will be divided by the number of passengers making the trip… but while I was waiting for the bus (there’s one around 9:30h) there was a private driver that was going town to Probolingo and I could manage a ride for 40.000 Rp.
From the Bus Terminal Bayu Angga, there are several buses to Madang. The public bus cost 000 Rp and took 2 hours. You buy the ticket inside the bus. When you arrive at the Bayu Angga, don’t trust much on the people hanging around, as most of them are touts trying to catch people for private companies. Instead go to the place from where the bus departure, where there are signs with the destination of each of them. There manage with the driver or his helper.
The bus drops you at the Terminal Arjosari, in North of Malang.
When you get out of the bus, walk in the opposite direction of the gate from where the buses enter. Walk following the majority of the people, and if anyone asks where you go just say “mikrolet”. You’ll arrive at an open-air area with a lot of blue bemos, the local mini-buses. This mikrolet are organized driving along fixed routes; they don’t have a number but letters, corresponding to the origin, destination and middle stops… just ask the drivers that are waiting there and they will point you the right
The mikrolet (local blue bemos) cost 5.000 Rp to the Train Station (just ask terminal), more or less the center of Malang. From there you cam walk on foot to your accommodation.

Public bus from Probolingo to Malang, that end at Arjosari Bus Terminal, on the north of the city

“mikrolet” are the most common public transport in Malang. If you arrive by bus to the terminal Arjosari, you can find the “mikrolet” terminal on the way out of the terminal.

Where to sleep in:

One of the budget options in Malang is the Kampong Tourist. Nice accommodation located on the top of a hotel building, with three huts as also a big dorm, build in an original way. The place is comfortable, clean and with very good conditions but the sleep can be easily disturbed by the traffic noise that comes from the streets around.

A dorm bed is 60.000 Rp, hot shower and good wi-fi connection, but that doesn’t reach the dorm area. The breakfast is not included. The staff in not very warm but is efficient.

www.kampongtourist.com

Kampong Tourist: good location, nice accommodation but your sleep can be disturbed by the traffic noise

Where to eat in:

Definitively, Warung Kuning, delicious homemade food, very tasty and with many options, served with friendliness. Opens from 6 a.m. until 4 p.m. As later you arrive, less choice you have, but is perfect for breakfast when all the food is fresh.

The Warung Kuning is located on Jalan Muhammad Husni Thamrin… just turn right as you come out from Kapong Tourist hostel and walk 10 meters.

The meals cost around 10.000 Rp but can be more if you add egg, meat or fish.

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Warung Kuning... just turn right as you come out from Kapong Tourist hostel — Warung Kuning… just turn right as you come out from Kapong Tourist hostel

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Warung Kuning delicious food for 10.000 Rp.

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Laundry:

The Kampung Tourist hostel has laundry for 14.000 Rp/kg

If you have much stuff to wash, you have a few laundries as you come out of the hotel, and turn right on the Jalan Muhammad Husni Thamrin where to2 kg of dirty clothes come clean and fresh by 10.000 Rp.

How to move around in:

On foot, you can reach the train station and also the Pasar Senggo (birds market), the Kidul Dalem and even the Pasar Besar.

There are many mikrolet linking the main points of the city, but for short distances, the most traditional way to move around are the becaks, a local version of the cycle rickshaw, mostly driven by old men, that hang around the markets area as also in many city corners. The price is negotiable.

To visit the Ijen Boulevard (I didn’t) is better you use one of this becaks, as you support this tradition, and the drivers that are mainly old men.

"becaks" driver at Malang — “becaks” driver at Malang

How to go from Malang to Yogyakarta:

Is a long 360 km journey, so I choose the most comfortable way, the train.

There are several trains link these two cities, but just one departure in the morning, the Malioboro Expresss, that just have third (Ekonomi) and first (Eksekutif) classes, with this last one costing 250.000 Rp but making the 7 hours trip very confortable.

Both train station are located in the center of the city.

For train schedules and ticket check: https://tiket.kereta-api.co.id/

Bromo… the breath of the earth

Feeling blessed fro this experience and pound of overcome some hard parts of the path, the dark cold of the night and the tiredness of a long-long hike, without giving up.

Arriving at Bromo, listening to the sound that comes from the center of the crater, a mix of boiling water with the sound from an earthquake… the breading of the earth. Such a power… such a memorable experience.

But the extraordinary moments lived in this visit to the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park started early in the morning, when before the first sun rays climb up the mountains, with the dawn light revealing a unreal landscape where the base of the three mountains – Bromo, Kursi and Batok – emerge from a thick layer of white clouds, giving the impression that these mountains are float in a cotton candy mattress.

But with the daylight the mantle of clouds slowly vanish, exposing a flat green plain, that is itself a center of an old volcano, which walls were almost all erased by erosion, but the one that is clearly visible is the location of Cemoro Lawang village.

The lava naked cone of Bromo volcano, emerge majestic and powerful in the lunar landscape, and the white dense smoke that comes from the crater reminds us this volcano is alive and can show is power at any moment!

Around there’s a wide and desert plain of black volcanic sand were a few plants try to survive… walking in this emptiness brings the feeling of total freedom, no boundaries, no limits… not even a footpath to follow!!!

Selling flowers to trow to the Bromo crater to pacify the volcano

Visit Bromo Volcano… DIY:

To visit Bromo National Park you don’t need a guide or a tour, but you need to walk a lot!!!!!… let’s say around 20 kilometers if you want to see the sun rise at the viewpoint and then go down to visit the volcano in the same day… is doable! I start at 4 a.m. and finish at 10.30 a.m. But don’t worry, ojeks (moto-taxi) are available everywhere, so if you start on foot and you feel that this hike is too hard you can get one ojek to save you some kilometers from your legs.

Jeep tours can be arranged at the guesthouses in Cemoro Lawang, but most of the people arrive here in tours from Malang and some from Probolindo (don’t recommend Probolingo as the city is famous for scams).

You don’t need special gear, just comfortable sneakers and warm clothes. It’s better to dress several layers that you can take off as the day warm’s up. Also, be prepared for the rain if you are visiting Bromo around April.
You need a ticket that cost 10.000 Rp. I couldn’t find the ticket counter and the guys also didn’t found me…
I start at 4 a.m. but need to walk fast to reach the summit of the hill nearby Cemoro Lawang, where you have the top view point… so is better leave the village around 3:30 a.m.
Walk along the road until the last viewpoint where you find some stalls (Mount Pananjakan). The road can be busy with traffic because almost everybody goes up by jeep. Most of the people stop here, on the end of the road, but you can keep walking up along a staircase. After, the path is not clear and the first part is a bit difficult, where I need the help of my hands to climb up, but after the hike get’s easier, always up in a kind of zigzag until you reach the top
On the top of the hill, there’s a viewpoint with a kind of cement fence. Here is an amazing spot to watch the sunrise, Bromo and the nearby hills, as you probably arrive already with some daylight.
After the sunrise, I could see clearly the volcano and the valley but just for a few minutes, because the fog starts to close the view. But when I was almost ready to leave, suddenly the all the fog vanish and the sunrays light the landscape. The view was perfect.
I weather is very unpredictable here and the conditions change quickly. In April the mornings were mostly sunny but around noon the rain starts, sometimes with thunders… other times is just a thick fog.
When you are done with the views of Bromo, is time to come down and walk to the crater. There are two options:
- the shortest one is to go back to Cemoro Lawang and from there cross the plain to reach the volcano.
- The other option is to go down along the road on the other side of the hill, a pavement road that ends in the plain area. Is a long walk, around 7.2 km but always downhill, with some parts very steep.

Anyway, at this road there are several ojeks waiting to help if you feel that is too much walk. There are several viewpoints where you can grab a coffee, instant noodle soup or some food, and have some rest.

Crossing the plain is the easiest part. Here you’ll also find a few basic food stalls.
When you arrive close to the Bromo, you’ll pass by the temple (Pura Luhur Poten Gunung Bromo) nothing special if you already have been in Bali.
From here you need to climb a bit to reach the staircase to the top of the crater. There are horses to help you to reach until the stairs.
You can walk along the crater rim, but a certain point the path gets narrow…. didn’t walk further because I found it danger as there is no protection on the active crater side.
Now is time to go down… walk along the plain but now in the direction to Cemoro Lawang… is a very nice walk and you don’t even need to follow the path of the cars.
The last part is the worst, as you need to climb a steep road back to Cemoro Lawang… it doesn’t have more than 800 m, but look steeper for my tired legs.

So all this takes more than 6.5h, but cost you nothing and you can enjoy the view as long as you want.

ojek (moto-taxi) drivers wait for people along the way that goes from the sunrise viewpoint to the Bromo volcano

About Cemoro Lawang:

Cemoro Lawang (pronounces chemoro) could be just one more rural small village at the end of the road, but due to the proximity to the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park, which entrance starts in the village, become a tourist destination, particularly for visitors that want to visit Bromo independently, without a tour.

And Cemoro Lawang doesn’t have much than a few houses, some homestays, hotel and guesthouses, a few eateries and a couple of groceries shops. Around, away from the tropical climate from the lower lands, all the fields were planted with onions and cabbages!!!

Where to sleep in Cemoro Lawang:

There are many guesthouses and homestays everywhere… also many people renting rooms and houses that don’t even have a sign. Just start to ask, that someone will show you a place. You can bargain the price, but the local people don’t speak much English. The conditions are basic, no hot water and no heating, but you can get a room for 75.000 Rp in one of these homestays.

For a more comfortable stay there are many options in Cemoro Lawang that cost more than 200.000 Rp.

Cemoro Lawang... one of the local houses that are rented to the tourist — Cemoro Lawang… one of the local houses that are rented to the tourist

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Cemoro Lawang homestay with very basic condition

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Where to eat in Cemoro Lawang:

There are many warungs along the main road that leads to the entrance of the Bromo Park. Despite being a touristic area, the prices are quite fair and the food follows the Indonesian standards.

Nearby the place where the buses wait for passengers there’s a restaurant with tasty food… a good option while you wait for the bus to be full.

ATMs and Money exchange in Cemoro Lawang:

There aren’t ATMs in Cemoro Lawang, but on the way from Probolingo the bus will stop at an ATM, and wait for you.

How to go from Probolingo to Cemoro Lawang (Bromo Volcano)

If you arrive at Probolingo by train, you need to catch a bemo to the Bus Terminal Bayu Angga. If you travel by bus probably you’ll end your trip at the terminal and you just need to walk 500 m to reach the bus stop where the buses to Cemoro Lawang are waiting. Watch out: Probolingo is famous for scams!
In front of the Probolingo Train Station, you’ll see a yellow bemo waiting that goes to the Bus Terminal Bayu Angga. You need to wait until it get’s full and the trip costs 10.000 Rp and takes 15 minutes. Along the way, the driver stopped several times trying to push the foreigners out of the bemo, saying that is the place to catch the bus to Cemoro Lawang, but these are the private buses or private cars. The public buses (very old and in bad condition) are waiting a bit south from the Bayu Angga Terminal, in front of some warungs. The driver will spot you as everybody that arrives here go to “Bromo”. The ticket costs 35.000 Rp and you need to wait until the bus is full, that means 15 people. If after a while there are not enough people, the total cost of 525.000 Rp will be divided by the number of passengers
The 37 km until Cemoro Lawang are made along a bumpy road with nice views passing along rural areas. The bus drops you at the end of the road, or before if you ask, as there is not exactly a center of the village.

bemo from the train station to the Bus Terminal Bayu Angga

Place where the bus to Cemoro Lawang wait for passangers... there's nothing written but the bus helper will spot you as you arrive — Place where the bus to Cemoro Lawang wait for passangers… there’s nothing written but the bus helper will spot you as you arrive

Ijen Volcano and Banyuwangi

Emptiness, desolation, silence, void… some words that are not enough to describe totally the feeling inspired by the landscape that surrounds the Ijen Volcano, which activity contributes to producing high quantities of sulphur, a mineral that is collected from the bottom of the crater by men.

Since early morning these miners, carry baskets on their shoulder with the big blocks of sulphur, which shiny yellow color contrast with the monochrome landscape. This concentration of sulphur is also responsible for a phenomenon called the “blue fire” only visible during the night, that is the combustion of the gas released by the volcano. Due to the recent eruption (March 2017) the crater is filled with smoke and the visitors are not allowed to go down, so the “blue fire” is not really visible.

The fire is not visible but the smoke that comes out from the crater, slowly start to irritate the throat and the eyes, making the breath heavy and leaving an intoxication sensation, that increase at dawn, when the air starts warming up. It’s strong enough to force anyone to use the gas mask, making your breath an audible experience that reminds Darth Vader, where the almost desert landscape creates a hash scenario.

Workers don’t use a gas mask but I think is more an option, maybe due to the lack of awareness of the impact of sulphur in health, than by economical reasons, as the same miners hang around selling mask to the visitors. But these miners suffer from the sulphur expose that reduces their life expectancy to less than 50 years.

Kawah Ijen... the most acidic lake in the world — Kawah Ijen… the most acidic lake in the world

sulfur rocks carried by the miners — sulphur rocks carried by the miners

But the Ijen has much more to offer: Kawah Ijen, another crater filled with water that due to the concentration of sulphur results on the most acidic lake in the world.

As the sun comes out behind the mountains that surround Ijen, the mist that fills the crater starts to slowly dissipate, revealing the fantastic colours of the lake, that goes from the greenish to a bluish color, with a milky appearance. Something hard to describe as everything looks unreal and illusory. And is not just the lake… as the soft first light of the day illuminates the sky, a fantastic landscape starts to show up, revealing a scarce almost all burned by the acid steam that comes from the lake, and a soil where the erosion of the acid waters brought by the rain leaves deep marks like ditches made by a gigantic claw.

The soil on the top of the Kawah Ijen also gets unusual colours with yellowish traces resulting from the acidic lake waters.

But the most remarkable moment from this visit, was the hike just before the sun rises up, where the dawn light, still dim to light the path I was walking, but strong enough to cut out the shape of trees and bushes which naked branches create phantasmagoric black figures against the dark blue sky. The absence of sounds, the immobility of the air and the fantastic landscape wrap us in a surreal reality… like a dream coming from another dimension.

How to visit Ijen Volcano:

You gonna need transport from Banyuwangi to Pos Paltuding the entrance of the Ijen Park: rent a motorbike or get an ojek (200.000 Rp return). If you want to see the sunrise and reach Ijen by ojek you need warm clothes as the trip is made around 2 a.m. and is really cold, even if at Banyuwangi is a warm night. If you drive a motorbike, go with plenty of time, as a few parts of the road are in bad condition… is a long way to the top made in darkness, so you must feel confident as a scooter driver. The way down is steep and a bit danger!
You gonna need a gas mask… really!!! It will cost 40.000 Rp at the entrance. The sulphur gas can be strong, depending on the winds, irritating the throat, lungs and eyes, making the hiking more difficult… although you just feel it nearby the crater and on the way to the lake. Around the lake, thesulphur is not significant.
You need to buy the entrance ticket: 100.000 Rp. At the weekends and public holidays, the ticket costs 150.000 Rp.
You do not need a guide!!!!! The doors open at 3:00 a.m. and everybody that arrive by a tour start hiking at the same time, so you just need to follow the crowd… and anyway the path is wide and very clear, as it used by the miners to transport the sulphur stones in hand cart. This hike takes about 90 minutes to reach the “blue fire” crater.
You gonna need a flashlight!!! The stretch between the blue fire crater and the Ijen Lake is not so clear and probably you’ll do it still before dawn, and at this point the tour groups will split a bit and there’s not a crowd to follow. If you don’t travel with one ask at your guesthouse.
Warm clothes. When you reach Pos Paltuding the temperatures are low during the night is even more on the top around the crater, maybe 10 degrees C. But with the hike quickly you’ll be sweating and need to get rid of some layers of clothes to put them on again when you reach the top. But on the top, around 8 a.m. is still very cold, and at that time my hands were almost without sensitivity.

If you choose a tour, they all stat from Banyuwangi around 1:00 a.m., moving around to pick others tourists and arriving at the Ijen park entrance (Pos Paltuding) around 2:30 a.m. There you find eateries with snacks, food and drinks… and some warm clothes.

The gates open at 3:00 a.m. with all the groups moving at the same time.

The visit usually ends around 7 or 8 a.m., depending on the guide and the speed of the group… I arrive at Banyuwangi around 9.30 h.

miners selling sulfur souvenires to the tourists — miners selling sulphur souvenires to the tourists

Due to the recent eruption (March 2017) the crater is filled with smoke and the visitors are not allowed to go down, so the “blue fire” is not really visible, and doesn’t make much sense the tours start so early (1 a.m. from Banyuwangi)…. but this information is not released by the people that are organizing or selling the tour and not even by the guides.

Note: since March 2017, after an eruption of the Ijen volcano, the way down to the crater is closed for visitors, that makes almost impossible to see the so-called “blue fire” as the smoke result from the volcano activity fills the entire crater.

Banyuwangi:

This city, at the most eastern point of Java, doesn’t offer much to see or to do and basically serves as a base point to visit the Ijen Volcano. Most of the people arrive here during the day, sleep a few hours and after visiting Ijen leave to Bali or Bromo.

Banyuwangi is also a waypoint for those traveling from Bali to Java, by ferryboat, that means from the Gilimanuk to Ketapang (Java) located a few kilometers from Banyuwangi.

I walk a bit around but couldn’t find anything that catches my attention, but the people are very friendly and smiley, making this uncharacteristic place a warm welcome to Java!

Where to sleep in Banyuwangi:

I stay at Pepito Guest House, that isn’t a remarkable place but has a good price, with a room with toilet costing 100.000 Rp, and with a delicious breakfast (Javanese style) made by the “auntie” that lives next door (maybe the best memory from Banyuwangi). Friendly staff that will help you to move by local transportation and that can also arrange a tour for a “not-so-expensive” price… 300.000 Rp, including transport, ticket and mask…. and a guide that you don’t need!

Pepito Guest house

Address: Jalan Jaksa Agung Suprapto No.159, Banyuwangi

Phone: 0813-3627-8367

Some rooms can be a bit noisy, and others without windows, so check the options available… and don’t trust much when the reservation sites say that there is “just one more room free”… if you arrive after noon probably all the rooms will be free, as most of the people just check out on the same day that visited the Ijen. You can call them if you want to book!

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Where to eat in Banyuwangi:

Along the Jalan Jaksa Agung Suprapto, there are many eateries that sell food, the usual variation of nasi. Just next door of Pepito Guest House there is also one shop that opens after 5 p.m. selling food packed in paper cones.

A meal in one of these places costs around 10.000 Rp and is usually tasty and spicy.

ATMs and Money exchange in Banyuwangi:

I couldn’t find moneychanger at Banyuwangi.

But during my search, one helpful and friendly man drove me to the BCA Bank, at Jalan Jenderal Achmad Ysani. Usually, the banks don’t offer an attractive rate but the BCA at Banyuwangi, gave me a good deal and doesn’t charge commission. It takes more time, as you need to fill a form, show the passport and wait for your turn, but the friendly staff made all this very smooth.

How to go from Banyuwangi to Cemoro Lawang (Bromo Volcano)

Bemo number 8 (yellow bemos that pass by Jalan Jaksa Agung Suprato) from Banyuwangi to the Karangasem Train Station, the trip takes about 5 minutes and cost 5.000 Rp
Train from Karangasem to Probolindo. Is better by the ticket in advance otherwise, you probably will not find economic ticket. I got mine one hour before the train departure and only found a seat in business class (120.000 Rp). There’s one train departing from Karangasem at 9:15 a.m. that arrive at Probolingo at 13:15. Watch out: Probolingo is famous for scams!
In front of the Probolingo Train Station, you’ll see a yellow bemo waiting that goes to the Bus Terminal Bayu Angga. You need to wait until it get’s full and the trip costs 10.000 Rp and takes 15 minutes. Along the way, the driver stopped several times trying to push the forigners out of the bemo, saying that in that place we’ll catch the bus to Cemoro Lawang, but these are the private buses or private cars. The public buses (very old and in bad condition) are waiting a bit south from the Bayu Angga Terminal, in front of some warungs. The driver will spot you as everybody that arrives here go to “Bromo”. The ticket costs 35.000 Rp and you need to wait until the bus is full, that means 15 people. If after a while there are not enough people, the total cost of 525.000 Rp will be divided by the number of passengers
The 37 km until Cemoro Lawang are made along a bumpy road with nice views passing along rural areas. It takes 1.5 hours.
The bus drops you at the end of the road, or before if you ask, as there is not exactly a center of the village, very close from the starting point of the hiking to reach the sunrise viewpoint.

How to go from Bali to Java by ferry boat

This is an easy and short trip between islands:

If you start in Singaraja you need to go to the Banyuasri Terminal to Gilimanuk during the day…. more than 50.000 Rp, I think, as no one gave me precise information.
I was in Pemuteran and took the same bus that passes on the main road. Didn’t need to wait more than 10 minutes. The trip to Gilimanuk cost 30.000 Rp and takes around 35 minutes.
The bus drops you about 300 meters from the terminal, and after you just need to walk straight.
When you arrive at the ferry terminal, you need to find the passenger area that is in a building after the vehicle’s entrance.
To buy the ticket you need to fill a form. The forms are at a board on the left side before the ticket counter.
The ticket is 6.000 Rp, for a passenger without vehicles. If you have a motorbike or a car you need to go to another entrance.
There is no fixed schedule for the departure, but I just wait 15 minutes. The ferry works 24 hours a day.
The berry boat trip takes about 30 minutes and drops you at Ketapang, Java.

form that needs to be fill to buy the ferry ticket

there's always a place for prayers... even inside the boat — there’s always a place for prayers… even inside the boat

How to go from Ketapanga (ferry terminal) to Banyuwangi:

If you travel by public transportation from Bali to Java you gonna arrive at Ketapang Terminal.

If your plan is to visit the Ijen Volcano you’ll probably need to spend one night at Banyuwangi. As you exit the terminal by the pedestrian exit, you’ll be surrounded by touts trying to push you to a bemo. You can deal with them a ride to the center of Banyuwangi for 10.000 Rp… and from there walk to your accommodation or get other bemo, that costs 5.000 Rp.

If you can’t get a fair price just walk away a bit, turn left on the main road and after 200 meters you’ll see the yellow bemos. From the center (there is not really a center) you can walk to your hotel or guesthouse of get an ojek.

14 days in Bali: itinerary & costs

Itinerary:

Ubud: 6 days

(14 days break to visit Lombok, leaving and return to Bali by Padangbai, using public ferry)

Amed: 3 days
Batur and Pura Ulun Danu Batur: 1 day
Bulian (Singaraja): 2 days
Pemuteran: 2 days
Gilimanuk (ferry from Bali to Java)

Costs:

15 €/day

… considering traveling solo, eating just local food, no a/c rooms, sometimes dorms, travel by public transport as far as possible, no alcohol and no soft drinks, making my own laundry and walking a lot on foot… Shopping and souvenirs are also not included, as well health expenses and communications (SIM card, mobile, telephone, internet…).

Costs in Bali:

room (fan): minimum 100.000 Rp up to 150.000 Rp (one person); sometimes dorms.
meal: less than 20.000 Rp (local food, street-food, vegetarian meals, the breakfast is almost always included)
rent a scooter: 50.000 Rp/day or 60.000 Rp/day
a liter of petrol: 10.000 Rp (at the pump station is 8.000 Rp/l)
snorkeling: 50.000 Rp/day (just gear)
bemos: around 1.000 Rp per kilometer
ojek: 10 km cost around 15.000 Rp (but the price of the ojek depends on your bargain skills and the needs of the driver, weather, time of the day…)… but once I need to pay 50.000 Rp for a 15 km ride!!!
As Bali, was the beginning of my trip, and I didn’t know yet how to move around, I took some tourist shuttle bus as also taxis, which increase the cost of transport.

Note: this trip was made in March/April 2017, which still is considered the low season, when the prices of the accommodation could be bargain.

Bali. costs. itenirery — Bali. costs. itinerary

Pemuteran… white sand vs black sand beaches

Permuteran, as most of the beaches on the north coast of Bali, has black sand… a soft back sand reminding the volcanic origins of the island, where the mountains that frame the area are a strong evidence. But… there’s a small area where the sand is white! The whiteness of the coral reef located a few kilometers west from Permuteran, before the Taman Bali Barat Park.

This area creates a kind of peninsula with the north coast dominated by the mangroves, where you can get a nice view of the mountains but no protection from the sun. But to reach this white sand you need to cross a wide fishery area, that creates a kind of labyrinthic network of roads, able to mistake anyone.

But hidden in this area, there is a small bay with the perfect conditions to swim, the Banyuwedang Bay… transparent and still water, shade, lots of nature around, in an almost empty white sand… a contrast with the busy and dark beaches nearby Pemuteran village, located only eleven kilometers away!!!

DSC_4933_Pemuteran beach — Pemuteran beach… were the finishing area is slowly taking over by resorts close to the sea line

Pemuteran beach… nearby the fishing village there is some garbage on the beach… and some traces of a religious ceremony

DSC_4936_Pemuteran beach — Pemuteran beach

fisheries on the way to Mangrove beach

DSC_4895_Pemuteran — on the way to the Mangrove beach were many men work on the fisheries

DSC_4876_Pemuteran — fisheries on the way to Mangrove beach

DSC_4866_Pemuteran — fisheries on the way to Mangrove beach

Banyuwedang Bay... white sand and nature... just this almost empty resort breaks the perfection of the place — Banyuwedang Bay… white sand and nature… just this almost empty resort breaks the perfection of the place

Banyuwedang Bay surrounded by nature this strip of white sand is perfect compared with the beaches around Pemuteran, that is not more than 11 kilometers distante

Where to sleep in Pemuteran:

Many options for many budgets but don’t expect to find anything less that 100.000 Rp. According to information from a guesthouse owner, the dorms are not allowed anymore in Pemuteran, as result of the pressure of some owners

If you are looking for a budget option you need to search on the land side of the road, as the coat line accommodation are all above 200.000 Rp. There are a few accommodations before the “gate” that marks the beginning of Pemuteran, but if are not planning to rent a scooter, maybe this area is a bit far from restaurants.

I found in a nice place in one of the small alleys that you find on the left side of the road Singaraja-Gilimanuk

Bhakti Guest House. A quiet and very clean place, only with two rooms… so if you are looking for social life this is not your place! The family is not very talkative but is nice and available to help. The breakfast is the usual banana pancake but is served in a very generous portion with fruit and coffee. A room cost 150.000 Rp but could get it for 000 Rp, with the fact that if I had booked by a reservation website he would receive less money as these companies charge a commission of 15%.

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Where to eat in Pemuteran:

Along the road, there are many restaurants, from the more fancy ones to the local warungs, where you can find a nasi campur from 10.000 Rp to 20.000 Rp.

One small stall stands up, that at the first look doesn’t have anything to offer but where I found a delicious gado-gado, made by a super friendly couple, that costs 7.000 Rp!!! … difficult to explain the place as there is no name, but is located on the opposite side of the road of the T junction that goes to Doubleyou Homestay.

gado-gado.. a classic from the Indonesia gastronomy, basically a salad with compressed rice, vegetables and peanut sauce

How to move around in Pemuteran:

On foot ,you can reach restaurants and groceries shops but cannot go much further that the main beach nearby the Pondok Sari Resort, but is very busy and not that clean…. everywhere else you need a scooter. A scooter costs 60.000 Rp to 70.000 Rp a day. I rent mine at Bhakti Guest House.

There are also many buses running along the main road, as also a few bemos.

to reach the Banyuwedang Bay just follow the signs to the resort White Sandy Beach Menjangan

Best beaches in Pemuteran:

At Banyuwedang Bay, you find an almost empty beach with white sand, surrounded by vegetation and with nice views of the hills. The water is very quiet and transparent and with shade from the trees. The reference point to reach Banyuwedang Bay beach is the “White Sandy Beach Menjangan”. The last part of the road is very bumpy but doable by scooter.
Mangrove beach: close by Banyuwedang Bay, this beach is peaty tricky to find, because you need to cross a big area of fisheries that create a kind of labyrinth. The place is empty but no shade.
If you don’t have your own transport, you can find a clean area to swim in front of Matahari resort.

ATMs and Money exchange in Pemuteran:

There’s a moneychanger at the Taruna Homestay. No commission and a better rate than the banks…. but not so good as in other places in Bali.

There are several ATMs along the road that cross Pemuteran.

How to go from Singaraja to Pemuteran:

At Singaraja, you need to go to the Banyuasri Terminal. From there departure regular services on the way to Gilimanuk that stop in Pemuteran.
The trip takes 2 hours and costs 50.000 Rp.
Doesn’t exist a “center” in Pemuteran or a bus terminal, so just ask the driver to drop you nearby your accommodation… the cheapest accommodation are located at the entrance of Pemuteran, nearby the gate, and on the left side of the road.

How to go from Bali to Java by public ferry:

How to go from Pemuteran to Gilimanuk:

Just walk from your guesthouse, hotel or homestay to the main road that crosses Pemuteran, and wait for the bus, a dark red van.

The trip takes 35 minutes and costs 30.000 Rp.

The bus will drop you at 300 meters from the ferry terminal.

The way to Gilimanuk is very beautiful, as you leave Pemuteran and reach a more natural area where the West Bali Natural Park is located.

Southeast Asia

So from my experience, the conclusion is: or you spend the 20 dollars and join the crown to visit the Borobudur temple… or if not it doesn’t worth much to move there just to see the sunrise and the silhouette of the temple at a far distance.

Where to sleep in Borobudur:

How to visit Borobudur:

How to go from Yogyakarta do Borobudur:

Where to sleep in Yogyakarta:

Where to eat in Yogyakarta:

Check more details at: A shot guide to hang ou in Yogyakarta

How to move around in Yogyakarta:

Arriving in Yogyakarta by train:

How to go from Cemoro Lawang (Probolingo) to Malang:

Where to sleep in:

Where to eat in:

Laundry:

How to move around in:

How to go from Malang to Yogyakarta:

see also:

Arriving at Bromo, listening to the sound that comes from the center of the crater, a mix of boiling water with the sound from an earthquake… the breading of the earth. Such a power… such a memorable experience.

Visit Bromo Volcano… DIY:

About Cemoro Lawang:

Where to sleep in Cemoro Lawang:

Where to eat in Cemoro Lawang:

ATMs and Money exchange in Cemoro Lawang:

How to go from Probolingo to Cemoro Lawang (Bromo Volcano)

How to visit Ijen Volcano:

Banyuwangi:

Where to sleep in Banyuwangi:

Where to eat in Banyuwangi:

ATMs and Money exchange in Banyuwangi:

How to go from Banyuwangi to Cemoro Lawang (Bromo Volcano)

How to go from Ketapanga (ferry terminal) to Banyuwangi:

Itinerary:

Costs:

15 €/day

Costs in Bali:

Where to sleep in Pemuteran:

Where to eat in Pemuteran:

How to move around in Pemuteran:

Best beaches in Pemuteran:

ATMs and Money exchange in Pemuteran:

How to go from Singaraja to Pemuteran:

How to go from Pemuteran to Gilimanuk:

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