Southeast Asia

Singaraja and the hidden Bulian Homestay

From the visit to Singaraja, the second biggest city of Bali didn’t remain a significant memory. The center is not impressive but the streets around the market, the Pasar Anyar, deserve a walk to see the local lifestyle, being an opportunity to buy a traditional Balinese sarong made with batik technic or the ikat, where the patterns result from dyeing the yarns before weaving the fabric.

But the very small village of Bulian, that is more like a few houses gathering along a road, where people live at the slow pace of the rural life, but where everybody welcome me with a warm “hallo”, a happy smile, and with the will help me all the time… showing me where to find food on a Sunday, giving me a ride in a truck or motorbike to make the six kilometers to the main road, and pose for a photo in an special costume.

But Bulian hid also a precious place, a lovely homestay surrounded by a forest of trees and bamboos, where the room faces a beautiful garden where the water run all the time to a pool, creating the perfect soundtrack. Cats, dogs and a friendly family complete the scenery, which makes me stay here longer than I planned.

Nearby, on the busy main road that runs from east to west along the north coast of Bali, and at 6 km from Bulian, is the Pura Meduwe Karang, a lovely temple, with interesting stone carving and statues that don’t receive many visitors but worth a visit if you pass by.

Where to sleep in Singaraja:

Apparently, no one stays in the city of Singaraja, as the Lovina beach is very close by and attracts all the tourists. I was tired of the tourist trap of Batur and was looking for a less popular place than Lovina, and also didn’t what to end up in a lack of atmosphere hotel in Singaraja… what shows up in the map was Yeh Sanih, but there all the accommodation were too expensive.

So, by chance (or fate) I found a homestay about 18 km from Singaraja, away from the beach resorts, located in a small-small village called Bulian… what a paradise here, at Bulian Homestay! Really a home stay, a kind of a treat after the bad experience at Batur.

The Bulian Homestay has 4 rooms, different styles. The cheaper one (standard) has a fan and shared toilet, on an open-air bathroom (200.000 Rp but got it for 150.000 Rp without breakfast). They’re a lovely garden. Forest, trees and bamboos are all around and the music of the water coming from a fountain fills the air. The decoration shows a good taste and the place has a kind of relax atmosphere, perfect to chill away from everything.

The only inconvenient is the distance to the main road (6 km), from where you can get a bemo or bus to Singaraja. There is no public transport to Bulian, so the only option is to hitchhike from a motorbike or a truck, and give 10.000 Rp as a donation. You can hire a motorbike at Bulian Homestay, for 70.000 Rp. A car with driver and laundry are also available, but expensive.

There are also meals available at Bulian Homestay, but nearby, 500 meters down the road is possible to find some stalls along the road during the morning serving nasi campur for take-away that costs 10.000 Rp. There are also a couple of small eateries and groceries with basic stuff and some fruit and vegetables stalls.

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Bulian Homestay. Bilian, Singaraja, Bali

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Bulian Homestay contacts. Bilian, Singaraja, Bali

Where to eat in Singaraja:

Warung Muslim Bu Maya… don’t need to go anywhere else. The food is delicious and with a lot of options!!! At Jalan Diponegoro, north from the Pasar Anyar.

Depending on your greediness for food, a meal cost around 15.000 Rp.

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Warung Muslim... delicious food on the center of singaraja — Warung Muslim… delicious food on the center of singaraja

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What to do in Singaraja:

A 12 km east from Singaraja, and at 6 km from Bulian Homestay, you can find the Pura Meduwe Karang…. on the road to Singaraja, here are many temples showing interesting statues and decoration, but don’t know about his historical values. There’s not a fee to visit the temple but is expected a donation… 10.000 Rp is ok.
Pasar Anyar… a big covered market at the center of Singaraja…. didn’t like it, as I found it too dirty and smelly and nothing really interesting to see, but apparently is more interesting around 5 a.m.
But Singaraja, away from the tourist route is a good opportunity to buy the traditional Balinese sarongs, batik or ikat… around the market nearby the Jalan Diponegoro and Jalan A. Yani you can find a few shops… a handmade ikat sarong can cost from 100.000 Rp to 300.000 Rp, depending oo the length, the pattern and the quality of the fabric. The industrial ones, made by printing process are cheaper, around 50.000 Rp.

one of the shops around Pasar Anyar where you can find hand made ikat sarongs

How to go from Batur to Singaraja:

From Penelokan junction, nearby the market building, stops a bus to Singaraja; it arrived before 9 am, but is better to arrive earlier to the bus stand as this service is not frequent and probably just run during the mornings. It’s a nice journey trough the hills that took 1:40h to reach the Kerobokan terminal and cost 000 Rp.
From here you need to take a bemo to Singaraja or any other destination… don’t deal with the guys inside the terminal, as there are many bemos waiting outside on the main road, leading both east and west.
A private car can be arranged, from Batur to Singaraja or Lovina, by 300.000 Rp.

How to go from Singaraja to Pemuteran:

How to go from Pemuteran to Gilimanuk:

Pura Ulun Danu Batur… a holy place in a holy day

So what was to be a trip to have an impressive view of the lake and mountains of Batur region, result in an even more exciting and memorable visit to the temple, due to the celebration of the Kuningan day that marks the day when the ancestors return to heaven after visiting the earth during Galungan celebration that lasts for ten days.

Visiting the Pura Ulun Danu Batur (also known as Pura Batur) during this celebration result in a memorable experience, with thousands of pilgrims arriving during all day, dressing the Balinese traditional clothes and bringing offerings like rice, fruits, cakes, money, meat, fish, flowers and incense that leave a trace of a sweet smell in the air.

From the original Pura Ulun Danu Batur, dedicated to the goddess of lakes and rivers, only one temple survive after one of the eruptions of the Batur volcano that also destroyed the village, forcing the population to move away from the lakeside and rebuild the temple there.

The stay in Batur area left a bitter taste on my memory, but the opportunity to visit Pura Ulun Danu Batur, the second most important temple in Bali, during the celebration of the Kuningan Hindu festival, was a gift from the “gods”!!!

Pura Ulun Danu Batur on the celebration of the Kuningan day

How to visit Pura Ulun Danu Batur:

At Penelokan you can get a bemo… the price until the temple is 20.000 Rp, too much for just 5 kilometers, but think that the drivers were taking advantage of the festival, as the local people were paying the same.

Ticket to visit the Pura Ulun Danu Batur is 35.000 Rp… and you get a bottle of water for free!

Both men and women must wear a sarong.

Nearby there are many food stalls and eateries.

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entrance ticket for Pura Ulun Danu Batur

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Ticket counter for foreigners at Pura Ulun Danu Batur

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Batur… the lake or the volcano?!

Leaving behind the beach and the seashore that are letting my skin with a strong tan, it time to move to the Bali countryside and visit the area of Batur, famous for the volcano (Gurung Batur) and the lake below (Danau Batur).

This is a very touristic attraction, with people coming for climbing the Mount Batur to see the sunrise and others just come here as a day trip to enjoy the views. So what to do?! Lake or mountain?!?!

The answer came naturally… neither of them!!! By change I arrive at Batur on a special Hindu day: the end of the Galungan festival…. and also by chance (or maybe not!) one of the second most important temples in Bali, the Pura Ulun Danu Batur (also known as Pura Batur) is located nearby.

But despite the festival that brought a meaning to visit this place, the mount Batur didn’t impressed, as the top was most of the time cloudy, except early morning, and the lake was most of the time wrapped by a layer of mist that painted the landscape with sad colors. This gloomy feeling spread to the lethargic Kedisan and to the characterless Penelokan, and was able to change also my mood!

Lake Batur and the Volcano wrapped in clouds view from Kedisan village

But Kedisan, look like woke up from the sleepy mood to celebrate the last day of the Galungan festival, and the temple nearby was the center of all the activity.

Women caring heavy offerings made form fruits at their head walking in the quiet streets of Kedisan… while the men in groups, play music, grill satay (meat sticks) and drink rice wine, away from the religiosity of the day. But later everybody goes to the temples as the religion has a big importance on the Balinese daylife.

gongs form the "gamelan" orquestra that plays during the Hindu celebrations — gongs form the “gamelan” orquestra that plays during the Hindu celebrations

Temple nearby Kedisan during the Kuningan celebration

the Balinese Hindu temples have always complex and elaborate decorations, full of significance according to the religious traditions

Where to sleep at Batur area:

There are basically 4 different areas around Gurung Batur:

Penelokan: this is the best viewpoint of the lake and to Gurung Batur, but isn’t much more than an intersection on the road, with a parking area, a market with souvenirs… a place without character.
Kintamani: this village spreads along the road and is nearby some significant temples, as Pura Ulun Danu Batur, with a lot of eateries and a local vibe but didn’t spot much accommodations… and is about 5 km from Penelokan and 10 km from the lake Danu Batur, that makes this place away from the nice views of Batur.
Kedisan: located on the west side of the lake, at water level, offer a nice view to the volcano and the mountains surrounding the lake, is very quiet and has a local vibe with a few warungs, but not much more is going on here.
Toya Bungkah: located nearby the north shore of the lake is the base point to start the hiking to Gurung Batur.

As the prices are higher that usual in Bali, as Batur is one important tourist destination on the island, the areas that offer cheap option are Toya Bungkah and Kedisan. As I was here more for the views than for the hike, I choose the last option and stay in one of the three options around Kedisan, Putra Mulya Hotel, that is more a homestay.

A super nice lady runs Putra Mulya Hotel, but the rooms accuse many years without maintenance, decadent and dirty, with a strong mold smell. Room for 100.000 Rp that include a horrible breakfast… not even the coffee was good.

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Look much better in the photo than it rally is... Putra Mulya Hotel em Kedisan, Batur. — Look much better in the photo than it rally is… Putra Mulya Hotel em Kedisan, Batur.

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Where to eat in Batur area:

Along the road that cross Kedisai you can find a few sleeping warungs, any of them looking attractive.

At Penelokan I didn’t spot any restaurant or eatery, just a stall of bakso (meatballs soup) but is a good place to buy fruits.

Kintamani has many eateries along the road, nearby the Nusa Ulun Danu Batur; basic and humble places, serving goregan (deep fry tofu, banana, corn, etc…), bakso and the usual rice dishes, mainly orientated to local visitors. A nasi campur (pronounce champur) cost 20.000 Rp.

How to go from Amed to Batur area:

By Shuttle bus:

Everywhere in Amed, you can find agencies offering this service for 200.000 Rp (minimum 2 people). If you are traveling along you can try to arrange a car for a cheaper price at your homestay.

Definitively this is the faster and the more comfortable way to travel…. but I was alone!

By public transport:

There is a route along the north coast, from Amed to Tedjakula, where you can find an ojek to Kintamani. But this road crosses dry areas and don’t offer nice views of the volcano.

So the other option is to go first to Almapura, and then to Besakih, and from here to Kintamani; this entire trip is possible to be made by bemo and bus. This was my choice as the road pass by rice fields and a more pleasant landscape, as people in Amed told me it. But… but there are always something unpredictable, and by chance I travel on the Kuningan day, an important Balinese religious celebration, that means that most of the public transport wasn’t working, what make this trip to Batur a very difficult task, forcing me to find another route.

Bemo from Culik to Amlapura: 20.000 Rp… just wait on the road for a red old mini-van… it will take around 30 minutes to Amlapura. On the way, you can see the beautiful rice fields landscape of Tirtaganga.
bus Amlapura to Gianyar: 30.000 Rp… this bus is not much different from a bemo, just a bit bigger, and also drives very slow. It was difficult to communicate with the driver but he dropped me in a junction near Gianyar, from where there’s a direct road to Batur, passing by Bangli. It took around 1.5 hours.
Ojek from Gianyar to Batur (Kedisan): 50.000 Rp… after one hour waiting for a bemo didn´t have other option than getting a moto-taxi. It’s a pretty nice trip along rural areas, and the last part is particularly winding and steep.

How to go from Batur to Singaraja:

From Kedisan to Penelokan: bemo 10.000 Rp or just try to hitchhike and give the same amount of money to the driver if he want.
At Penelokan junction, nearby the market building, wait for the bus to Singaraja: it arrived before 9 am, but is better to arrive earlier to the bus stand as this service is not frequent and probably just during the mornings. It’s a nice journey trough the hills that took 1:40h to reach the Kerobokan terminal and cost 50.000 Rp. From here you need to take a bemo to Singaraja or any other destination… don’t deal with the guys inside the terminal, as there are many bemos waiting outside on the main road
A private car can be arranged by 300.000 Rp to Singaraja… good if you travel in a group!

How to visit Pura Ulun Danu Batur:

Ticket to visit the Pura Ulun Danu Batur is 35.000 Rp… and you get a bottle of water for free!

Both men and women must wear a sarong.

Nearby there are many food stalls and eateries.

Amed… a good surprise!

After the white and thin sand of the beaches of Lombok, I arrive at the dark and stony beaches of Amed, on the east coast of Bali. In common they have the clear waters and the amazing aquatic life, with amazing colorful fishes and the less colorful but also impressive corals.

Rocky and dark, the beaches around Amed maybe don’t look very attractive at the first look, but the surrounding landscape is impressive with the Mount Angun, the highest point of the Bali island, at a very short distance, and with the Mount Batur behind, most of the times with the top surrounded by clouds, but that turns into a magic image at the sunset.

But this rocky shore, although it doesn’t offer a nice place for long walks along the sea, has the advantage of keeping the water clear and totally transparent, creating the perfect conditions for observing the corals, the fishes, the starfishes… most of them with bright and intense color, almost unreal.

Amed is definitively a dive spot, and this quiet village, not much more than a few houses along the road, with most of the accommodations along the seashore. The road winding along the coast to the south, where there are many more beaches, most of them still keeping the fishing as the core activity but where the number of resort and expensive accommodation is increasing.

Amed beach with Mount Angun at the sunset, Bali

Amed beach, Bali — Amed beach, nearby BarAcuda Bar… almost empty and away from the less clean area nearby the fishing boat of Amed village, Bali

But the quietness of the beach, in this time of the year between the end of the monsoon and the start of the high season, offer an almost empty beach, with warm and still waters and the show offer underwater by the aquatic life, easy to reach and with a lot of beauty… an unexpected surprise in this less travel coast of Bali!!!

Where to sleep in Amed:

Several options for all the budgets in Amed, where is easy to avoid the expensive resorts. Stay in Amed, even if you need to walk 10 minutes to the beach, make it easier to reach local food and some supermarkets and grocery shops.

Bucu Homestay (nearby BLD Diver shop). This place is not easy to find but you can go to the Pacha bar (an reggae bar on the main road) and there you’ll find the owner I Wayan of this family homestay. I Wayan can also give a lot of information and help you to plan your trip, as by shuttle services as by public transport, or even to arrange a boat trip to Gilis in fast boat. In low season a room with fan costs 100.000 Rp at Bucu Homestay (pronounce buchu), including breakfast that is served at Pacha Bar. The owner can also arrange a scooter for 50.000 Rp/day.

http://www.amedbucu.com/

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lovely room at Bucu Homestay. Amed, Bali

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Behind Pacha Bar (located on the main road) also have bungalows in a very nice traditional construction and with a mezzanine (150.000 Rp for a double but where there’s space for four people) and a very good dorm (100.000 Rp) with a/c, locker, solid bunk beds and quite same privacy, just next to the Pacha Bar.

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breakfast at Bucu Homestay... tasty but why always pancakes at Indonesia tourist breakfasts!?!?!? — breakfast at Bucu Homestay… tasty but why always pancakes at Indonesia tourist breakfasts!?!?!?

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Where to eat in Amed:

There are many options along the road from Amed to Jemeluk, but for this, you need a scooter, and any of this places stands up from the tourist-orientated menu.

But in Amed you can still find tasty local food with a local price.

Warung Man Pel (on the main road a bit after the bridge on the right side)… my favorite food! Usually is for take-away but there’s one table and you can eat there. Is open early in the morning but close before 11 a.m. Sometimes it opens again in the afternoon around 5 p.m…. sometimes don’t. A meal cost 10.000 Rp. Enak!!!
Warung Happy (on the main road nearby Sudi Homestay)… an old lady cooking the standard Indonesia menu. The portions are big and the food is spicy. The meals cost around 20.000 Rp.

The best food in Amed!!!! Enak!!!! but with a crazy schedule, opening early morning and closing before lunch time... sometimes open in the afternoon, sometimes don't!!! — The best food in Amed!!!! Enak!!!! but with a crazy schedule, opening early morning and closing before lunch time… sometimes open in the afternoon, sometimes don’t!!!

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Warung happy on the main road of Amed, opp to Pacha Bar... simple food. — Warung happy on the main road of Amed, opp to Pacha Bar… simple food.

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How to move around in Amed:

By foot you can go to the beach but is better to walk further south from the village, away from the fishing area to have a cleaner place. On foot you can reach many restaurants and small groceries shops with the basic things.

Everywhere else you need a scooter.

Schedules and prices of the shuttle from Amed to different destination in Bali

What to do in Amed:

Snorkeling is defectively the best if you are not in the diving scene. I found a nice pace for snorkeling in front of the BarAcuda bar, where you can get the snorkeling set for 000 Rp a day, or just ask for a discount if you just want it for one hour. You don’t need to go far to reach the corals.
Rent a scooter and drive along the coast, to south until Aas. You have nice views and can stop in one of the many beaches that you’ll find along the way. Is a ride of 15 kilometers that is not amazing but is nice to do.
Swim at the warm and quiet waters. The beach just in front of Amed isn’t clean, but you walk about 1.5 kilometers and you’ll find a nice place to swim, almost empty nearby Kembali Beach Bungalows and Diver’s Café Amed. Walking along the road, parallel to the shore, isn’t easy to find the entrance to the beach, as the construction didn’t leave much space to reach the shore, but you can cross the resorts and hotel area without problem.

How to go from Gili to Amed (Bali) by public transport

It takes all day… and you can’t really control the length of the trip, as the ferry boat takes more than 4 hours and the bemos usually departure when they have more than three people.

From Gili Meno to Amed… step by step:

Boat from Gili Meno to Bangsal, departure at 8 a.m. (but is better arrive earlier as the boat leave as soon as it gets full) and costs 14.000 Rp and the trip takes 25 minutes.
At Bangsal you need to walkway from the pier avoiding the touts that will try to sell you something. You need to walk 1.2 kilometers until Pemenang where the bemos wait. If it’s too much to walk for you can get a cimodo or an ojek (moto-taxi).
The bemo from Pemenang to Mataram costs 20.000 Rp and takes around 1 hour. Tell the driver that you are going to Lembar and he will drop you nearby Pasar Cakranegara, on the Jalan AA. Gde Ngurah.
Then you need to spot a bemo that will be waiting on the left side of Jalan AA. Gde Ngurah (between the intersection with Jl Tumoang and Jl Chairil Anwar, not far from an Alfamart supermarket).
The bemo from Mataram to Lembar cost 20.000 Rp and it took 45 minutes and dropped me at the harbor entrance.
At Lembar harbor go straight to the ticket counter located on the right side. Public ferry Padangbai (Bali) cost 40.000 Rp. The ferryboats run 24 hours but don’t have a fix schedules and all depend on the time they need to fill the boat with trucks, cars and motorbikes. The ferry trip takes around 4.30 hours but can be more.
If you arrive during the day to Padangbai you can probably can find bemos that drive along the north coast (Candidasa, Amlapura and further north…) passing by Culik (pronounces Chulik). According to the information that I obtain you need two bemos as they don’t drive far distances.
I arrive around 7 p.m. (due to works at the pier of Padangbai that make the boat wait 1.5 hours offshore) so there were no bemos just the usual touts pushing me to a taxi for 300.000 to Amed. Think you can bargain up to 200.000 Rp but, as I was alone and still was too much.
So I got an ojek (moto-taxi) to Amed for 100.000 Rp… the ride took 1.5 hours… is a long 45 kilometers ride to do with a backpack on a motorbike!!!

Total time: 13 hours (5:45 hours in the ferry due to works at the Padangbai pier)

Total costs: 194.000 Rp (if you arrive during the afternoon you can use one of the bemos waiting at the pier, and save the hard trip by ojek)

The alternative to the public transport is the fast boat from Gilis to Amed, that takes 45 minutes and costs minimum 450.000 Rp… from Amed to Gilis you can get a fast-boat for 250.000 Rp.

Food:

There’s a masakan padang eatery at Lembar, on the left side a few meters before the ticket counter. Or you can get food and water from the vendors that hang around the pier.

Inside the ferry, you can have cookies, snacks, instant soup…

Itinerary:

Public ferry from Bali (Pandangbai) to Lombok (Lembar)
Kuta: 3 days
Tetebatu: 2 days
Mataram: 1 day
Gili Air: 2 days
Gili Meno: 4 days
Trip from Gili Meno to Lembar, and then Bali (from Gili to Amed) by public transport

Costs:

13 €/day

… considering traveling solo, eating just local food, no a/c rooms, sometimes dorms, travel by public transport as far as possible, no alcohol and no soft drinks, making my own laundry and walking a lot on foot. Shopping and souvenirs are also not included, as well health expenses and communications (SIM card, mobile, telephone, internet…).

Costs in Lombok:

room (fan): minimum 100.000 Rp up to 130.000 Rp (one person)
meal: less than 20.000 Rp (local food, vegetarian meals, the breakfast was almost always included)
rent a scooter: 50.000 Rp/day
a litre of petrol: 10.000 Rp
snorkeling: 50.000 Rp/day (just gear)
bemos: around 1.000 Rp per kilometer
ojek: 10 km cost around 15.000 Rp (but the price of the ojek depends on your bargain skills and the needs of the driver, weather, time of the day…)

Note 1: in general the cost at Gilis are higher than Lombok, but just at Gili Air, I notice this. The Gili Meno is still quite cheap for food and with the same prices for accommodation.

Note 2: this trip was made in March/April 2017, which still is considered low season, when the prices of the accommodation could be bargain.

Gili Meno… what a rest!!!

Definitively, Gili Meno is the most laidback island of the Gili group and the one where I feel the connection with the beach, the sea and with the rural lifestyle that still occupies the interior of the island, were cows, goats and chickens overtake the number of inhabitants.

Despite the rain from the end of the monsoon that left a strong print during the time spent at Gili Air, the days at Gili Meno were mainly sunny, with a gentle breeze and a full moon.

Gili Meno has a privileged position between the big Gili Trawangan, best known as Gili T, and the small Gili Air. From the east coast of the island, you can see the small flat Gili Air with it tinny beaches with the impressive mountains of Lombok behind, covered by dense vegetation with the top frequently wrapped in thick clouds of the end of the monsoon.

From Gili Meno west coast, despite the far distance is possible to see the contours of Mount Agung, the highest mountain of Bali, behind the small hills of Gili T, with this landscape getting a special twist at the sunset.

Lots of nature, not many resorts, restaurants, bars or nightlife, and with a seashore still with many natural and empty spaces make this island the more pleasant one, where you can find a strong connection with nature, an easy going rural lifestyle and where you interact with local people, that here look much happier and smiley than in Gili Air.

The quietness of the island is broken by the callings for prayers that come from the mosque several times a day, filling the air with a melody that in the beginning sounds strange and misplaced but that after a few days serves as a reference in a place where is easy to lost the perception of the hours and of the days…

Where to sleep at Gili Meno:

Gili Gila… that means “crazy gili” and in fact that a bit of craziness in this project. A hostel located in the center of the island, with dorms and rooms, build in a creative and very original way, with a lot of places to chill and socialize. But this craziness extends to the environment with a lot of party going on that makes difficult to sleep without good earplugs… a heavy contrast with the quietness of the island.

The dorms cost 100.000 Rp, including breakfast that is only pancakes. Water refill, tea and coffee are available for free all day. You better bring your own padlock and towel otherwise you need to “rent” at the reception. Has Gili Gila open recently the wi-fi is not working yet.

You can go snorkeling with the guys of the hostel and rent part of the gear there.

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Where to eat at Gili Meno:

At Gili Meno is still easy to find local food with local prices, in small eateries and family style warungs located along the roads that cross the island. And even at some of the restaurant nearby the beach is still possible to find reasonable prices, like the Yaya Warung.

Nearby Gili Gila, the Rizkey Warung Makan, with delicious and cheap food, cooked by a super smiley lady. Beyond the standard Indonesia menu, you can also find Sasak food as Urap-Urap (mix of vegetables with grated coconut) and the Olah-Olah (mix of vegetables with a spicy coconut sauce).

Urap-Urap one of the Sarak specialities. Gili Meno

Rizkey Warung Makan... good food including Sasak specialities — Rizkey Warung Makan… good food including Sasak specialities

What to do in Gili Meno:

Snorkeling (the west coast of the island offer nice places with corals and many colorful fishes). You need to rent the gear (50.000 Rp a day).
Walk around the island… it’s not more than 5 kilometers. The south part of the island is a bit dry and without much shade.
Swim in the clear blue waters of Gili Meno. The best place is the north part of the island, without many resorts yet, and with very still waters and with some natural shade all day. The east seashore is littered with plastics.
Get lost on the narrow roads that cross the island and watch the countryside lifestyle with cows, goats and chickens a bit everywhere.
Visit the salt lake.
Watch the sunrise and the sunset.

How to move from Gili Meno to Lombok (Bangsal):

There public boats to Bangsal three times a day: 8:00, 14:00 and 15:15… and the ticket cost 14.000 Rp and the trip takes 25 minutes.

Schedule and prices from the boat from Gili Meno to Bangsal

How to go from Gili Meno to Gili Air:

They’re a hopping island service boat, from the public company (Koperasi Angkutan Laut Karya Bahari) that links the three Gilis.

From Gili Meno to Gili Air the ticket cost you 35.000 Rp, and there are boats at 9:50, 16:20. The trip from Gili Meno to Gili Air takes about 10 minutes.

If you are on a very short budget and have plenty of time, you can take the boat back to Bangsal (12.000 Rp) and then another boat to Gili Air (14.000 Rp+2.500 Rp). I didn’t try this option that just saves you 6.500 Rp but maybe takes all day 🙂

Gili Air… in search of quietness

The outline of the mountains surrounding the Bangsal harbor are blurring as the rain becomes more intense, a haze seems to dissolve the landscape. Under a thick cap of clouds the small boat departure from the big island to the Gilis, a group of three very small islands located on the northwest coast of Lombok.

The closest and the smallest one is Gili Air, next is distance and size is Gili Meno, and then is Gili Trawangan, the biggest and further island of the Gili group, and the most famous for its nightlife and party lifestyle… attracting the majority of the visitors as also the local population.

The first stop was the Gili Air. This small piece of sand with less than 5 square kilometers have more than 200 accommodation, and almost all the land is already occupied, without almost any rural activity, and with just a few empty spaces. The beach is all around the island (except the pier area that is a bit dump) with more or less 5 kilometers long, but is an always a narrow stretch of sand.

Is a nice place to stay a couple of days, away from urban agitation, is a place without cars or motorbikes, and where the most common way of moving around is by cimodo, the local name for horse carts… or just walk or cycle, as the distances are quite small.

How strange is to be at a beach that has the convex shape?!?!? Usually, the beaches forms a bay or are along a straight coast line, but here, with such a small island the beach always ends behind the bend… looks like the beach is inside out 🙂

Where to sleep in Gili Air:

As usually everything is more expensive on the island, a rule that you can apply worldwide, I think! And Gilis are not an exception.

There a hundred of accommodations in Gili Air, most of them Bungalows, but also resorts, homestays and hostels… but I couldn’t find a place to sleep for less than 130.000 Rp… in low season and after a bargain and without breakfast.

I stayed at Dwi Inn on the north part of the island. A nice place with some rooms around a garden, located inland about 5 minutes walking from the beach… but without atmosphere!!

Where to eat local food at with a cheap price at Gili Air:

Near the pier the WR Bunda, a local grocery shop and eatery, sell nasi campur, in a pack, for 15.000 Rp.

Along the “main” road that goes from the pier to the north of the island you can find small groceries shops that sell fruit and sometimes food. There are small warungs along the many streets, sometimes quite hidden and without a sign, that are more focus on local population but that will be glad to serve you an unpretentious meal.

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Local food with local prices, near the pier. Gili Air

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"Nasi campur" from the warung near the pier. Gili Air — “Nasi campur” from the warung near the pier. Gili Air

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If you want to go for a treat, I strongly recommend the Warung Padang Sumatra, on the “main” road… white (10.000 Rp) or brown rice (20.000 Rp), and then you add vegetables, tempeh or tofu (10.000 Rp each portion), eggs (15.000 Rp) or meat, fish or prawns. Depending on your appetite, a meal will cost you around 50.000 to 60.000 Rp… three times more that the local masakan padang eateries but very delicious food!

Padang Sumatra... delicious food for a treat on a rainy day! Gili Air — Padang Sumatra… delicious food for a treat on a rainy day! Gili Air

How to move around in Gili Air:

The island is small enough to be done on foot, but renting a bicycle is very popular.

There are no motor vehicles in the island, so if you travel with heavy luggage you can rent the service of the horse cart, locally called cimodos, and are parked nearby the pier.

cimodos waiting nearby the pier at Gili Air

How to go from Gili Air to Gili Meno:

They’re a hopping island service boat, from the public company (Koperasi Angkutan Laut Karya Bahari) that links the three Gilis.

From Gili Air to Gili Meno the ticket cost you 35.000 Rp, and there are boats at 8.30 and another at 15.00. The trip from Gili Air to Gili Meno takes about 10 minutes.

If you are on a very short budget and have plenty of time, you can take the boat back to Bangsal (12.000 Rp) and then another boat to Gili Meno (14.000 Rp + 2.500 Rp). I didn’t try this option that just saves you 6.500 Rp and maybe it will take you all day 🙂

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How to go from Gili Air to Bangsal:

There are public boats all day that departure when are full (40 passengers)… the ticket is 12.000 Rp and the trip takes about 15 minutes.

Southeast Asia

Where to sleep in Singaraja:

Where to eat in Singaraja:

What to do in Singaraja:

How to go from Batur to Singaraja:

How to go from Singaraja to Pemuteran:

How to go from Pemuteran to Gilimanuk:

The stay in Batur area left a bitter taste on my memory, but the opportunity to visit Pura Ulun Danu Batur, the second most important temple in Bali, during the celebration of the Kuningan Hindu festival, was a gift from the “gods”!!!

How to visit Pura Ulun Danu Batur:

Where to sleep at Batur area:

Where to eat in Batur area:

How to go from Amed to Batur area:

How to go from Batur to Singaraja:

How to visit Pura Ulun Danu Batur:

Where to sleep in Amed:

Where to eat in Amed:

How to move around in Amed:

What to do in Amed:

Food:

See also:

Itinerary:

Costs:

13 €/day

Costs in Lombok:

Where to sleep at Gili Meno:

Where to eat at Gili Meno:

What to do in Gili Meno:

How to move from Gili Meno to Lombok (Bangsal):

How to go from Gili Meno to Gili Air:

Where to sleep in Gili Air:

Where to eat local food at with a cheap price at Gili Air:

How to move around in Gili Air:

How to go from Gili Air to Gili Meno:

How to go from Gili Air to Bangsal:

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