Southeast Asia

How to go from Lombok to Gilis by public transport

You probably gonna need to take two bemos and one boat... no worries… just go with plenty of time and no stress! It will work… but is better to start early morning, about 7:30 am, because you’ll just arrive to Amed in the evening.

How to go from Mataram to Bangsal by public transport:

If your accommodation in Mataram is at Cakraneagara neighbourhood you just need to wait at Jalan Panca Usaha for a bemo (yellow). And you don’t need to go to Mandalika Terminal to catch it.

You must ask the driver to drop you at the crossroad between Jalan Jendral Sudirman and Jalan Dr.Wahidin. The area is called Puri Lestari, but as most of the bemo drivers don’t speak English just ask for “Bangsal” and they probably will drop you nearby the junction and point you the next bemo that will be waiting there for passengers.

The second bemo (white or black) will take you to Pemenang; from here you need to walk to reach the pier. You can also get an ojek (moto-taxi) or a horse cart… both will be waiting for you at the place where the bemos stop.

The trip cost 25.000 Rp in total and takes 2 hours… most hotels can arrange a shuttle for you for 75.000 Rp.

Bemo from Jalan Panca Usaha to Puri Lestari: 5.000 Rp (takes around 30 minutes, but maybe you need to wait a while for a bemo that goes on that way… I start at 8 a.m. and just wait around 10 minutes).
Bemo from Puri Lestari to Pemenang: 20.000 Rp (it takes about 1 hour).
From Pemenang you can walk to the Bangsal pier: around 1.4 km.

The trip between Mataram and Pemenang is quite nice, with the road passing trough a hilly area, covered by thick jungle, where hundreds of monkey, gray fur and a kind of fluffy mustaches, wait on the road rails for some food drop by the cars and motorbikes that pass by.

Bemo from Jalan Panca Usaha to Puri Lestari: 5.000 Rp

Bemo from Puri Lestari to Pemenang: 20.000 Rp

road from Mataram to Bangsal that pass by the Monkey forest where grey monkey wait for food on the road side — road from Mataram to Bangsal that pass by the Monkey forest where gray monkey wait for food on the road side

From Mataram to Gilis_DSC_4098 — From Pemenang you can walk to Bangsal pier or take a ojek (moto-taxi) or a cimodo (horse cart)

Public Boat to Gili Air:

If you are going to Gili Air by public boat (identified by the name Koperasi Angkutan Laut Karya Bahari) you must turn right until you find a small ticket counter behind a big building where the private companies sell their tickets.

Don’t ask informations to people hanging around the pier, as most of them will try to push you to one of the private boats, that are faster but much more expensive. For informations, you can go to the main ticket counter, inside the big building located on your left as you enter the harbour area.

The public boat doesn’t have a fixed schedule and just departure when is full, which mean 40 passengers.

I arrive around 11 a.m., and was one of the first on the list, but it took just 30 minutes to fill the boat. There isn’t a pier, so you need to put wet your feet to reach the boat. The same applies to when you arrive at the island.

The trip from Bangsal to Gili Air takes 15 to 20 minutes.

From Mataram to Gilis_DSC_4103 — Departure area for Gili Air at Bangsal

From Mataram to Gilis_DSC_4107 — Public boat from Lombok to the Gilis

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From Mataram to Gilis_IMG_2764 — Price of the trip from Bangsal to the three Gili

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From Mataram to Gilis_IMG_2765 — for any of the Gilis is charges a extra fee for foreigners: 2.500 Rp

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other option to go to Gilis with schedules and prices — other options to go to Gilis with schedules and prices

How to go from Gili Air to Gili Meno:

They’re a hopping island service boat, from the public company (Koperasi Angkutan Laut Karya Bahari) that links the three Gilis.

From Gili Air to Gili Meno the ticket cost you 35.000 Rp, and there are boats at 8.30 and another at 15.00. The trip from Gili Air to Gili Meno takes about 10 minutes.

If you are on a very short budget and have plenty of time, you can take the boat back to Bangsal (12.000 Rp) and then another boat to Gili Meno (14.000 Rp+2.500 Rp). I didn’t try this option that just saves you 6.500 Rp and probably takes you all day 🙁

From Mataram to Gilis_IMG_2771 — Schedule and prices of the boats that departure from Gili Air

hopping boat between the three Gilis — hooping boat between the three Gilis

From Mataram to Gilis_IMG_2774 — Hooping service that link the three Gili. 35.000 Rp from Gili Air to Gili Meno

How to go from Gili Meno to Bangsal (Lombok):

There public boats to Bangsal three times a day: 8:00, 14:00 and 15:15… and the ticket cost 14.000 Rp.

You should arrive at least 30 minutes before the schedule, as the boat departure as soon as it’s full. Mine start 10 minuts before.

The trip from Gili Meno to Bangsal takes 25 minutes.

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From Mataram to Gilis_IMG_2782 — Schedule and price of the public boats from Gili Meno to Bangsal (Lombok)

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From Mataram to Gilis_IMG_2781 — Schedule and price of the public boats from Gili Meno to Bangsal (Lombok)

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Mataram… what am I doing here?!?!?

For what I saw during the day spent at Mataram, the capital of Lombok, doesn’t show any reason to stop here (except for the chance to stay at the lovely Oka and Son Guesthouse).

Usually what stand up in a city are the markets, the old part and some temples… here there’s not properly a center, with the city spreading along wide and busy avenues, that run more or less parallel to each others orientated east to west, with some quiet small streets in between, creating a grid, that make the orientation in Mataram easy.

Maybe the most interesting area is nearby the sea, around Taman Ampenan Sakaraja with some small buildings, a kind of shop houses that are a clear influence of the Chinese traders… but still far from be a charming or an appealing place.

Walking further west, following the calling for the sea, we face a poor area of the city, nearby Pantai Ampenan, a king of slum where the friendly smiles and the “hallo” that come from everywhere cannot hide the depressive appearance of the place, where the fishing is still an important activity while the kids play in the waves that bring the plastic that accumulates at the shore.

Nearby, the Pasar Kekon Roek, located in a gloomy and characterless building has a similar atmosphere, with the vendors suffering from a grey lethargy. But early morning the market is vibrating with activity with the usual movements of people and the porters. The line of horse carts (locally called cidomo) are an unexpected image in the urban landscape, bit still very popular for short distances.
The Pasar Tradisional Cakraneagara, one of the biggest market in Mataram, is far from be attractive without many interesting things for a visitor to see or buy… even the fruits and vegetable area shows oppressive, being better just buy outside along the Jalan Banjaran Sari.

But not all is bad in Mataram… in fact, walking along the small streets we can see many influence of the Balinese arquitectura, in temples and houses, that are the result of the Balinese kingdom, that extended it’s presence to the west part of Lombok, before the Dutch invasion. As a result there’s a small group of Hindu community in a island where the population is 87% Muslim.

Sweets at Pasar Kekon Roek, Mataram, Lombok

Where to sleep in Mataram:

The best area to find a quiet and affordable place to sleep is around Cakranegara (pronouce chakranegára), between the Cakranegara market and the Mataram Mall.

The hotel Viktor, with his three houses located at the same street (Jalan Abumanyu) is a very popular option, with nice and clean rooms. The breakfast is very poor, bread with chocolate, boiled egg and coffee.

The price for a room with fan, and bathroom inside (cold shower), cost 120.000 Rp (no chance to bargain). A room with ac is 170.000 Rp. The breakfast is included and water, tea and coffee are free and available all day.

The staff is ok, but will not help you in nothing about moving around or how to go to your next destination, pushing you always to “shuttle buses”, “tour packs” or a taxi!!!

The wi-fi hasn’t a good connection.

But walking around this area there are more options, and one place that has character and look to me very cozy is located nearby: Oka and Son Guesthouse (not to mistake with the next door called Oka homestay). Very nice place with the room facing a garden, build in Balinese style, and run by a super friendly couple. The rooms start in 150.000 Rp, and have a good wi-fi connection… and here is guaranteed that you have all the information you need about how to move around by public transportation, and no tout will show up trying to push you to expensive options. A place with a good vibe and a happy dog 🙂

Oka and Son Guesthouse

Phone: 0819-1600-3637

Address: Jalan Rapatmaja, Cilinaya, Cakranegara, Mataram

Oka and son Guesthouse (Jalan Rapatmaja, Cakranegara). Mataram, Lombok

Where to eat in Mataram:

Nearby Pasar Cakraneagara, along Jalan Tumpang Sari there are several options of local food, as also some street-food. The food area inside the Pasar Cakraneagara is far from being attractive.

At the Pasar Kekon Roek you can also get some snacks and sweets.

On the small streets between Jalan Selaparang and Jalan Tumpang Sari there are also small eateries very basic and very cheap. At the Jalan Banjaran Sari there is a good place to look for masakan padang food.

How to move around in Mataram:

Along Jalan Selaparang and Jalan Tumpang Sari you can find many bemos during the day, easy to identify by the yellow color, as many of them run from the Mandalika Bus terminal to Pasar Kekon Roek.

There must be a fix price for a ride, as everyone give the exact amount of money to the driver, but for foreigners you must negotiate the price before get inside the bemo. A ride inside Mataram shouldn’t cost more than 5.000 Rp.

Ojek (moto-taxis) that gather a bit everywhere in Mataram streets but are easily found nearby the markets. Mataram, Lombok

Hose cart, locally called "cidomo" are still a common way to move around the city, specially for shot distances, and that are easy to find nearby the markets area. Mataram, Lombok — Hose cart, locally called “cidomo” are still a common way to move around the city, specially for shot distances, and that are easy to find nearby the markets area. Mataram, Lombok

ATMs and Money exchange in Mataram:

There are a few moneychangers in the city, but all far away from the Cakraneagara area, some of them with appealing rates, but to reach there you need a bemo.

So if you are at a walking distance from the Pasar Cakraneagara, the best option is to go to one of the goldsmiths (took emas) shops on the crossroad of Jalan Sutra Hasanudin with Jalan Selaparang. More or less they all have the same rate, but at my visit I could get a bit more for my euros at Toko Emas Melati.

There are a few moneychangers in Mataram, but the easiest way (and the most central) is to go to one of the Goldsmiths (Toko Emas in bahasa) located nearby the Pasar Chakranengara. Mataram, Lombok — There are a few moneychangers in Mataram, but the easiest way (and the most central) is to go to one of the Goldsmiths (Toko Emas in bahasa) located on crossroad of Jalan Sutra Hasanudin with Jalan Selaparang. Mataram, Lombok

Tetebatu and the Sasak wedding

Ducks, flying in a group with characteristic flapping wings, sending funny chirps that leave a subtle trace in the morning fresh air, returning again, moments before the sun disappears in the horizon.

Tetebatu, on the way from the sea to the top of Rinjani volcano, is a perfect place to cultivate rice, with its smooth slopes facing south. The thick clouds that frequently hide the top of Rinjani Mountain, the highest point in Lombok, leave behind a huge quantity of rain that goes down the hill until flood the rice terraces. A short walk along the rice fields offer nice views to the Rinjani volcano, but that are quickly hidden by the clouds that arrive a few hours after the sunrise and stay there during the rest of the day.

The days run smooth in Tetebatu, marked by the chanting of prayers that come out from the mosques that are a bit everywhere around the village and even at small settlements spread around. The sound of the calling for prayers, five times a day, fill the air in the Tetebatu village, but the Arabic words don’t seem to match with the tropical landscape of rice fields and coconut trees.

In Tetebatu, as also other places in the countryside of center and East Lombok, still keep alive the Sasak culture and traditions, that despite the connection and the influence of the Balinese culture, differ mainly by being strongly based on the Muslim religion.

Nowadays what pops up from the Sasak culture is the music, the weaving patterns of the sarongs, the food where the coconut is a strong presence, and the Sasak language, that is spoken by all the population, with the Bahasa used to communicate mainly with people from other islands and for official proposes, as the Sasak just exist in the oral version.

Lombok_Tetebatu_DSC_3934 — Tetebatu. Lombok

Lombok_Tetebatu_DSC_3966 — Tetebatu. Lombok

Lombok_Tetebatu_Sasak_DSC_3885 — Tetebatu, Lombok

Lombok_Tetebatu_DSC_3981 — Tetebatu. Lombok

Lombok_Tetebatu_DSC_3975 — Tetebatu. Lombok

Lombok_Tetebatu_DSC_3982 — sarong with local patterns. Tetebatu. Lombok

Lombok_Tetebatu_DSC_3993 — View of the Rinjani Volcano, during a clear moment without clouds early morning. Tetebatu. Lombok

But his routine was suddenly broken by the parade of a Sasak wedding that filled Tetebatu main road, adding bright colors to the green scenario and spreading the melodious coming out from drums, bamboo xylophones, gongs and metal plates of the gamelan orchestra, that plays and perform dancing during the wedding parade.

Despite the majority of the population in Lombok being Muslim, the wedding parade shows a lot of the Balinese culture and influence, that pops up in the guest outfit, with many women without the Muslim hijab, dressing the Balinese kebaya, and the men with double sarongs and the udeng around the head. Also, the music and the dances performed during the parade that crosses the village is a clear influence from the neighbor Hindu island.

Where to sleep in Tetebatu:

There are many accommodations in Tetebatu. Most of them are located on the road that leaves from the center of the village to East, on the way to Kemang Kuning. The prices are around 150.000 Rp, but during the low season, you can get a lower price. The Kemang Kuning Cottages have a room for 100.000 Rp but is a bit far out from the village, and just behind a mosque… and the first calling for prayers is around 4.30 in the morning.

I stay at Matra Bungalows. There a three different type of accommodation here, and the cheapest one is a small hut with a single room and bathroom, for 100.000 Rp (low season) including breakfast (coffee, fruits and pancake). Matra Bungalows is a nice place to chill with a good vibe and a friendly and helpful staff that can help to move around, by hiring a guide or rent a scooter.

The wi-fi connection is very poor, here as in almost all the accommodations around…

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Matra Bungalows. Tetebatu. Lombok. Contact

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breakfast at Matra Bungalows... there's also a menu that include Sasak specialities that are delicious here. Tetebatu. Lombok — breakfast at Matra Bungalows… there’s also a menu that include Sasak specialities that are delicious here. Tetebatu. Lombok

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Where to eat in Tetebatu:

There is only one eatery at the center of Tetebatu, is called Warung Sasak, serving the usual Indonesia food as also some of the typical Sasak food. I have a huge and tasty meal of Nasi Campur (pronounces champur) with fry tempeh and fry tofu for 20.000 Rp.

But almost all the guesthouse or homestays have a restaurant and there are many options, some with nice views. The Matra Bungalows also serve food, including the Sasak traditional food, delicious and freshly made, like the Urap-Urap (mix of vegetables with grated coconut) and the Olah-Olah (mix of vegetables with a spicy coconut sauce).

How to move around Tetebatu:

On foot you can see a lot, walking through the rice fields, have nice views to the Gunung Rinjani (volcano and the highest point of Lombok), passing by small settlements with the rural lifestyle and even reach the Monkey Forest… and if you are lucky maybe see the black monkeys!

But to visit nearby villages, famous for handicrafts you need to rent a scooter or a guided tour.

ATMs and money exchangers in Tetebatu:

There is no ATM or money exchanger at Tetebatu.

The nearest ATM is at Kotaraja.

How to go from Tetebatu to Mataram:

Ojek from Tetebatu to Terara: 15.000 Rp

Bus from Terara to Mataram (stops at Mandalika Terminal): 20.000 Rp

Bemo from Mandalika Terminal to Chakra Negara area: 5.000 Rp…. think I pay too much because most of the people paid around 2.000 Rp…. but not sure!

Kuta Lombok… the secret paradise

Beautiful… a kind of beauty that make me feel close to heaven… the light blue color of the sea, the green of the grass that cover the black rocky hills, the vivid blue of the sky, the white clouds like candy cotton, the sensation of the warm breeze on the wet skin. All balance to create a kind of perfect environment… even when the rain arrive, mostly in the afternoon, brought by the grey thick clouds, it matches perfectly on the landscape, leaving behind a shiny touch on the colors the scenery and a fresh air.

The atmosphere in Kuta is laid-back with most of the visitors coming here for surf… but despite the good waves the beaches are perfect for a swim, as the reef acts as a barrier away from the shore, making the waves break far away from the beach.

And this create a curious misperception in our senses, as we hear the sound of the waves breaking hard but in front of us the sea is quiet as a lake.

Long and empty beaches are waiting for someone to come and step in the untouched sand, made from crushed coral. Along the coast, for both sides of Kuta villages there are many more beaches to explore, all depending on your stamina as a scooter driver to go further… the roads to west are steeper and with more curves, but offer very nice viewpoints for the countryside landscape, where the green of the rice fields merge with the green of the coconuts trees and the green of the almost untouched forest!

But this paradise is threatened by the construction of luxury resorts and other tourist facilities, which construction works are already creating a big impact on the landscape, attract much more visitors that for sure will change the pace of Kuta and the surrounding beaches… maybe this “Kuta” will be something like the famous Kuta beach in Bali, already exploited by the tourism.

Kuta beach where fishing is still part of the daily life, despite the increasing number of tourists that daily arrive to this small village, looking for good waves to surf. Kuta, Lombok

fisherman at Serenting beach. Kuta, Lombok

Where to sleep in Kuta Lombok:

There’s are a LOT of options for lodging in Kuta Lombok and on the beaches around, for all the styles and budgets…. guesthouse, homestays, apartments, boutique hotel, resorts, hotels… and many more things are now under construction.

There’s no point to choose a place close to the beach of Kuta the village, as the view to the sea is not clear and the beach is a bit dump to swim… and as it is a fishermen village is not the best place to sunbathe in bikini, and Kuta beach attract also many Indonesians on weekend trips… maybe you’ll not feel comfortable in bikini surrounded by women with hijab!!!

My choice was the Kuta Circle Homestay… a homestay that is not really a homestay but a row of rooms, with different styles, but where the friendliness of the family that runs the business makes you feel at home.

There are two types of room, with fan and with a/c, and both with toilet inside. The breakfast is included and can be eggs with toast or pancakes; it’s nothing special but is ok… and you can use the fridge and the kitchen and you are free to cook more pancakes during the breakfast time! Coffee and tea for free all day… and water refill by a small donation!

Don’t book on the websites… contact Kuta Circle Homestay directly.

https://kutacirclehomestay.com/

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Kuta Circle homestay... room without a/c. Kuta, Lombok — Kuta Circle homestay… room without a/c. Kuta, Lombok

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Kuta Circle with the room surrounded by a garden full of tree where the chicken move around during the day and where the frogs take over the place during the night. Kuta, Lombok

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Where to eat in Kuta Lombok:

Eat local and cheap food in Kuta is easy! There are a lot of warungs that still keep the style and the prices of a small village. Some of them made an upgrade in the decoration and in the presentation of the dishes but the prices are still cheap.

You can have a gado-gado for 15.000 Rp and a nasi goreng for 25.000 Rp.

But my favourite is always the Padang food, simple and humbles, but serving a traditional delicious food with plenty of choices, from curries, to deep-fry stuff, from fish to meat, from tofu to tempeh, from vegetables to eggs… The base of a padang meal is the rice where you add what you choose from the several options exposed on the window. Don’t worry about refrigeration… I had food in this kind of places almost every day and didn’t have any stomach problem.

The cost of the padang meal depends on the quantity and the type of food, with eggs, meat and fish increasing the price… but a vegetarian meal in a can cost between 10.000 Rp (0.70€) to 20.000 Rp.

Name of the padang warungs that I try at Kuta Lombok:

Resto Bundo Masakan Padang: cheap option for local food somewhere in Kuta village; close at 3 pm
RM restu bundo Masakan Padang: Not totally sure about the name but is the ONLY Padang eatery in on the road that links the circle (roundabout) to the village, just in front of the new huge mosque under construction (Jalan Pariwisata Pantai Kuta). This is my favorite of all places where I ate in Kuta… nice food, super friendly staff and very cheap prices… a vegetarian meal cost around 10.000 Rp (0.70€)

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local food and local prices at Kuta, Lombok

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Best Beaches to swim around Kuta Lombok:

Mandalika: on the left side of Seger beach; it’s an almost desert beach with thin white sand and light blue water, with almost no curling. You can climb a small hill on the left side and see the view from there
Tanjung Aan: a long stretch of sand, almost desert except at the weekends that receive a few local visitors but that usually don’t stay away from the stalls and parasols.
Serenting: long and desert beach with light blue water.
Mawun: popular among foreigners, the shore can be a bit steep.

Many of the beaches have a kind of fee that apparently includes parking, for motorbikes or cars, and security. It’s always 10.000 Rp, no matter how long you stay and the type of the vehicle. Beaches with this fee are Seger, Tanjung Aan and Mawun.

Even when they look desert there’s a strong chance that the bracelet boys, the sarong ladies of the pineapple men show up from “nowhere” trying to make some business… they can be persistent, special the kids!

ticket to park at Seger, Tanjung Aan and Mawun beaches. Kuta, Lombok

How to move around Kuta Lombok:

On foot you can’t go far then the beach nearby Kuta village, that part of it is occupied by fishing activities with the fisherman and families hanging around which don’t let you very comfortable to swim in a bikini outfit. And despite this, the water is not that clean as there’s a small river that flows out to the beach with domestic dirty waters.

So the best option is to hire a scooter that costs 50.000 Rp a day. A liter of petrol cost 10.000 Rp at Kuta, and is available everywhere, on small pump station or in glass bottles at roadside shops.

There are many places renting scooters at Kuta village, but there also many reports of scam with the motorbikes… so is better if you rent at your guesthouse or homestay. I rent mine at Kuta Circle Homestay and didn’t have any issue.

How to go from Kuta Lombok to Tetebatu:

There are no public buses leaving from Kuta to Tetebatu. There are bemos but is difficult to communicate with the drivers. You can try your chance with the ojek (moto-taxi) drivers that the at the ojek corner, if you don’t carry much luggage and weight… must be less than 150.000 Rp to Tetebatu.

By taxi or private car, you pay between 175.000 to 300.000 Rp from Kuta to Tetebatu.

I hired a car with a driver at Kuta Circle homestay for 175.000 Rp. The trip takes 1.5 hours on a good condition road.

ATMs and money exchanger in Kuta:

There are a few ATM’s.

And there’s also one moneychanger shop, that every time I pass by it was closed.

From Bali to Lombok… by public ferry

It takes time… an enjoyable time to do nothing, a thing that we are not much used to do, and sometimes is not so easy.

Just watch the landscape, and let your mind get empty from thoughts and allow your body to relax with the trembling of the boat, while the muffed sound of the engine mix with the clash of the small waves on the ferry-boat.

The arrival to Lombok coincided with the sunset, that paint magic colors on the green hills that from this volcanic island… where the vegetation breaks through the black volcanic rocks.

Public ferry Bali-Lombok (Pandangbai to Lembar)

How to go from Ubud to Kuta-Lombok by public ferry?

First, you need to go from Ubud to Pandangbai (sometimes written as Pandang Bai). For me, the best option was the Perama bus (a kind of tourist bus), because couldn’t find any bemo in Ubud. There are 3 Perama buses a day fromUbud to Pandangbai (see photo below), I took the one at 11.30 and arrive in Lombok (Lembar pier) by ferry around the sunset.
The bus from Ubud to Pandangbai takes 1.5 hours and cost 75.000 Rp.
The Perama bus drops you very close from the pier. Just walk straight in the direction of the sea, and ignore all the guys trying to push you away from the ferryboat, offering you faster, but more expensive options.
As you get inside the port area, you must buy your ticket inside the building on your left side. If you need orientation try to find someone with a uniform otherwise can be one of the many touts hanging around there.
The ferry ticket costs 40.000 Rp. The trip took me 4.5 hours.
When you arrive at Lembar (Lombok) you just need to walk straight to leave the port area.
When I arrive I didn’t saw any public transportation, no bemo or buses, but it was already 6.30 p.m. Grab, Uber, GoJek are NOT available in Lombok. So the only way is to use the services of one of the drivers hanging around the port gate. You can walk straight until you reach the main road (nearby a supermarket) and try to get a taxi. If you are traveling alone, the best it to talk with the other travelers while you are in the boat, to see if anyone is going to the same destination as you, so you can share the ride.
I was going to Kuta Lombok, a less popular destination, but found other travelers going on the same way. So we walk until we reach that supermarket (Indomart I think) and there I found some drivers with a kind of old mini-vans. We were three to go to Kuta and we bargain the price to 60.000 Rp per person.
The road to Kuta is good and the trip took about 30 minutes in the evening.

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Schedules of the Perama buses that departure from Ubud. Perama offer a service direct to Kuta Lombok, that cost 300.000 Rp, .... but choose to take the public ferry. — Schedules of the Perama buses that departure from Ubud. Perama offer a service direct to Kuta Lombok, that cost 300.000 Rp, …. but choose to take the public ferry.

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Perama office at Ubud, where you can buy the ticket and catch the bus to Pandangbai

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Practical information about the ferryboat from Pandangbai to Lembar:

Ferry Ticket: 40.000 Rp. By the ticket at the ticket counter inside the building. In Pandangbai the building is located inside the harbor area, on the left side.
The ferry works 24 hours.
It doesn’t have a departure fix schedule, but usually the ferries departure every hour, but it can take more time depending on the number of vehicles waiting for getting inside the boat… and no one seems to be in a hurry!!!
My trip on the ferry took, 4.5 hours but can be more if the sea conditions were rough… but I needed to wait 45 minutes until the boat were ready to departure.
Inside the boat there a few drinks and snacks, but if you want to avoid processed food, you can get one of the pack that some ladies are selling at the entrance of the boat, usually with fried-rice (nasi-goreng).
The ferry goes full of cars, but doesn’t transport many people, so you have a lot of space if you want to sleep.
For me is better to do the trip outside on the deck nearby the pilot cabin… if the fence is closed you can open without a problem and travel there.

For more detailed and update information:

http://www.lombok-network.com/ferry_tarrif.htm

How to go from Ubud to Kuta Lombok… costs and time

Perama bus: 7:00, 11:30, 15:00, 75.000 Rp (1.5 hours)

Ferry boat: 4.30h, 40.000 Rp

Shared Bemo: 60.000 Rp/person (minimum 2 people)

Perama Bus has a direct service from Ubud to Kuta Lombok for 300.000 Rp, including boat and bus, but for a minimum of 2 persons.

NOTE: there aren’t Uber, Grab or GoJek in Lombok!

Ticket of the public ferry Bali-Lombok (Pandangbai to Lembar)

Ubud… temples and rice fields

Rice fields, spirituality, yoga, organic and raw food, meditation… all this is part of the Ubud cliché! But despite being overwhelmed by the tourism the place is beautiful! And for sure that Ubud still has the magic touch that attracts so many visitors, that transform this rural area in one of the most popular destinations in Bali Island!

But at the first look, is hard to believe that this was a rural area less than 20 years ago, due to the concentration of shops, restaurants, cafes, hotels and guesthouses… a sequence of shops, with western orientated products, sophisticated and with high quality.

But behind this commercial activity, a bit away from the main roads of Ubud, everything is green, from the rice to the coconut trees!

Being a rural area a walk along the rice fields is a must, with the vivid green landscape creating a bright contrast with the blue sky, where the white cotton clouds aren’t enough to hide the strong sun, that makes these hikes a very sweaty experience, intensified by the strong humidity of the air at the rice fields area.

On the opposite side of the cosmopolitan and westernized lifestyle, the temples, spread a bit everywhere in Ubud, keeping a proud serenity, with their guardians watching and protecting the sacred place keep hidden behind the red brick walls.

Being Bali the only Hindu island in all Indonesia, that is the country with the biggest Muslim population, the religion here has a constant presence in everyday life, with rituals and offerings being made at home and on the temples, in order to pacify the gods and the spirits, special the evil spirits responsible for diseases and disasters. Having a strong connection with the Hinduism practiced in India, the traditions in Bali have many differences, looking almost like a different religion to a foreigner’s eyes.

Ubud_temples_DSC_3645 — Pura Padang Kerta. Ubud

Ubud_temples_DSC_3315 — Guardians of the temple to protect from the evil spirits. Pura Padang Kerta. Ubud

Ubud_temples_DSC_3356 — Balinese temples with the rooftop made in coconut leaf fibers. Ubud

Ubud_temples_DSC_3616 — Decoration of an altar in Ubud during the ceremonies that procedure the Nyepi day.

Ubud_temples_DSC_3359 — Gunung Lebah Temple. Bali

Ubud_temples_DSC_3447 — offerings nearby an altar. Ubud

About Ubud, many things were written and there’s a lot of information about lodging and food, but here I mention a proper budget places… not budget for two-weeks-holidays-tourists but for long term travellers, where each cents has significance 😉 So here is a simple suggestion about cheap local food, budget accommodation in a homestay.

Where to sleep in Ubud (budget option):

If you want to run away from villa, resorts and luxurious places, the best options are the homestays. There are many of this type of accommodation in Ubud, and the best is just walk around and find a sign that looks less catchy to the eyes, as this are usually the unpretentious and cheap places.

Walking down Jalan Hanoman I found this pearl between many posh options in the area: Dewi Ayu 2… don’t have any idea if exist a number 1, but this place suited me. This is a proper family homestay, very well located in the center of Ubud, with different types of rooms.

The cheapest ones (100.000 Rp) are very spacious, fan, basic furniture, cold shower and a terrace in front, where the breakfast is served, facing a garden. The place is very clean but showing the effect of the time. The breakfast include coffee, a generous portion of fruit and the “usual” banana pancakes… a standard of Indonesia tourist breakfast, don’t really know why!

The family is very friendly, and during the Nyepi day, where all the restaurants are closed, all the guests were treated with two homemade meals, cooked and offered by the grandmother… delicious and super kind!

Address: Dewi Ayu 2, Jalan Hanoman, 41, Ubud, Bali

The quiet streets of Jalan Sugriwa and Jalan Jembawan, streets parallel to Jalan Hanoman are also a good place to look for budget homestays in Ubud.

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Ubud_Dewi Ayu 2 Homestay_DSC_3295 — Dewi Ayu 2 Homestay. Ubud. Bali

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Dewi Ayu Homestay. Ubud. Bali — Dewi Ayu 2 Homestay. Ubud. Bali

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Where to eat local food for a cheap price:

Padang food: this is the budget option in terms of food in Bali. The “padang” or “masakan padang” are eateries, with a big range of food, from meat, fish, tofu, tempeh, eggs… and rice, of course! The meals can be eaten inside the restaurant or packed for take-away. The portions are generous and a meal cost around 20.000 Rp, less than 1.5 €. The base of padang food is the rice, and each person chooses what to add from a big variety that is show off at the window of the eatery… from meat, fish, tofu, vegetables, curry, tempeh, etc…

They open around 11 a.m. and close around 8 p.m… others close after lunch, specially in small towns and villages.

Rumah Makan Sari Minang (Jalan Ray Pengosekan, nearby the junction with Jalan Raya Nyuh Kuning, opp to Alfamart)… my favorite!!!
Sanak (Jalan Hanoman, 7)
Puteeri Minang (Jalan Raya, 77)

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_Ubud PAdang food_IMG_2610 — Padang food restaurant… my favourite in Ubud

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Warungs: These are local restaurants, usually simple and informal. They have a menu, sometimes posted on the wall with the usual range of Indonesian foods: nasi goreng, gado-gado, nasi campur, etc… the prices are between 20.000 to 40.000 Rp.

Warung Lokal (Jalan Gootama, 7)

Street food: there are a few options of street-food away from the main touristic streets. Usually, these stalls start around the sunset… you can find satay, bakso, martabak (a roti filled with vegetables or egg), goregan (deep fry stuff), injin (pancake stuffed with rice).

Junction between Raya Pengosekan and Jaan Made Lebah, in front of a supermarket
On Jalan Raya Ubud, between Jalan Jembawan and the Anjuna Statue (Jalan Raya Andong)
Around lunch time, you can spot same ladies nearby the market area, with a tray on the top of the head that usually have nasi goreng, deep-fry tofu, meat…

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_Ubud_street food_DSC_3451 — Nasi goreng and fry tofu from a street-food seller, Ubud

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Martabak... cooking rotis with different filling and a lot of oil... only show up arounf sunset — Martabak… rotis with different filling and a lot of oil… only show up around sunset

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Exchange money in Ubud:

There are a lot of money exchangers in Ubud… and there are also many stories about scams with exchanging money.

I didn’t have any problem the three times that I exchange my money in this two places, the process is easy and you don’t need to show the passport:

PT Bali Maspint Jinra, located at Jalang Pengosekan… nearby Bening Bungalow s
PT Bali Hastie Indomalaya, located on the west side of the Jalan Raya Ubud

Move around Ubud:

Move around is not an easy task in Ubud, as the Uber, GoJek, Grab…. and others transport companies are banned from town and cannot operate there due to the pressure of the local taxi and moto-taxi corporation, who’s drivers stay on every street and every corner offering their services.

Bemos apparently also don’t operate in Ubud, at least during the time I stay there I couldn’t see any.

To visit the rice fields and hike to Campuan ridge you can do all on foot. But if you want to go further than three kilometers you must hire a taxi or a moto-taxi that, if you are alone, is the cheapest option.

There isn’t a fixed rate, and the price must be negotiated before the ride… usually, the minimum that they ask is 50.000 Rp, but you must bargain. A 3 km moto-taxi ride shouldn’t cost you more that 20.000 Rp, even on a rainy day!!!!

.... only taxis or moto-taxis — …. only taxis or moto-taxis

What to do in Ubud for free:

Walk along the Campuhan ridge: very popular and a bit crowded at the sunset. It starts on the west side of Jalan Raya Ubud, before the bridge.

Ubud_Campung ridge_DSC_3333 — Walk along the Campuhan ridge, Ubud

Ubud_Campuang ridge walk_DSC_3335 — Walk along the Campuhan ridge, Ubud

Walk in the rice fields: easy and pleasant walk but without much shade. It starts on Jalan Raya Ubud, just before Museum Puri Lukisan, and ends nearby Desa Temple, also in Jalan Raya Ubud.

Ubud_rice fields_DSC_3434 — rice fields walk. Ubud

Ubud_rice fields_DSC_3437 — rice fields walk. Ubud

Walk to the river: pass by some rice fields, if you want you can go to the river and on the way back it passes by a more shady area. This walk starts on Jalan Raya Ubud, nearby Eden House, where you need to turn left after a few meters. When you reach the sign that points the river (doesn’t worth the effort to go down), you can turn right and follow the water ditch along the rice field and join the path that ends nearby Desa Temple.

Ubud_rice fields_river walk_DSC_3444 — walk to the river. Ubud

Petulu and the herons:To reach the trees where the herons gather you need to pay 20.000 Rp, to help the development of the local community.This small village about 6 km north Ubud is famous for being the gathering of the herons, that around sunset return to the village filling the trees of white dots and the air with their chirp.The show of the herons doesn’t really worth the money, but the road that leads to the village of Petulu, that start somewhere on Raya Petulu, is quite nice, as you can have an idea of how Ubud look like before the tourism arrive here. It’s a long walk, and the part along Raya Petulu is uncharacteristic and with some traffic.

How many stars have the sky on the Nyepi night?

As the first stars show up in the sky, the sound of the cicadas become clearer but is the frog’s choir that stands up in the night orchestra. The quietest night of the year, in all Bali island.

On the last day of the year 1939 according to the Saka calendar, the evil spirits are evoked during the Ogoh-ogoh parade that culminates with the purification ritual of the burning of the statues representing demons and Hindu mythological creatures. But just after the ceremony that reduces most of the Ogoh-ogoh to ashes, starts the Nyepi, the day of silence. During the next 24 hours, the activity in the island is reduced to the basic needs, all the inhabitants stay at home, the streets are empty, there’s no music, the lights are turned off or kept dim, the voices are kept in a low tone… not to wake up the evil spirits!

During the day the sounds that come from the kitchen where different from usual… as the task of preparing the food, dealing the pan and pot, was being done with gentleness and care. Not much more was done during the Nyepi day, with all the family gather at home, preparing the traditional complex offerings for the next days.

All the quietness on the street and the stillness of the people give, on Nyepi day space to many sounds that in this day become more clear that ever… the birds during the day that are more audacious to show off with their colorful feathers… the gentle sound of fall of the frangipani flowers… the bats during the night, moving in the thick darkness, invisible to our eyes but felt by our senses, that become sharper due to the lack of light.

The quietness of the night, without human sounds, creates an unusual feeling… a strange silence that seems not to match with an urban place… a silence heavier that usual… a thick silence that occupies all the spaces of the Universe.

But all this silence with the light turn off brings with him a sky full of stars, looking like the sky decide to light up to celebrate the beginning of a new year.

How many stars have the sky on Nyepi night?

On the end of the Ogoh-Ogoh parade the statues are burned, symbolising the end of the evil

Ogoh-ogoh… the parade of the evil spirits

What a rest!!!!… after the busyness and the excitement of the Ogoh–Ogoh parade the Nyepi day start quietly with a beautiful blue sky decorated with fluffy white clouds, surrounding the laidback village of Ubud, in the heart of Bali island, the only that follows the Hindu religion in all Indonesia.

According to the Saka calendar, the new year is commemorated with a day of silence, the Nyepi day, when all the inhabitants of the island stay at home, all shops and restaurants are closed, no one is allowed to walk or drive on the streets, the activity at home is reduced to the minimum and the lights are turned off or keep dim, there is no music, TV or radio, and even Bali’s airport is closed during 24 hours. These rules are applied to everyone that stays on the island during this day, no matter religion or nationality, and the Pecalang, a kind of civil police, patrols the streets to guarantee that these rules are respected.

But the day before Nyepi is busy and noisy with the Ogoh-ogoh parade. Statues representing demons are building by different groups in all the villages by the local population, symbolizing the evil and the bad spirits responsible for disease and misery.

The Ogoh-Ogoh are carried on a bamboo structure the streets, usually by boys and young men, parading in front of the temples, where they execute a kind of dance at the sound of the drums of the Gamelan orchestra. Between voices and shouts, the streets are filled with excitement, every time that the Ogoh-ogohs, made with foam, resin and styrofoam are lifted and carry on the shoulders.

In the end of the day, before 12 o’clock they are burned, as a ritual of purification. After this everyones return home, and start the 24 hours of silence in all Bali Island.

At home, before the Ogoh-ogoh parade, the family walk around the house shouting and making noise with metal plates, to pushing away the evil spirits, leaving behind a trace burning bamboo sticks.

The day before the Nyepi, is busy also around the temples, with the population gathering with offerings made from fruits and flowers, participating in a long and complex ceremony where the foreigners are not allowed but where the music of gamelan, traditional from Bali, is present.

The festive sarongs of the women with shiny color tops (the kebaya) and the hair decorated with flowers, the frangipani flowers that are everywhere around the island, contrast with the more sober outfit of the men, with batik dark color sarongs, white shirt and the udeng, a headband traditional in Bali.

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Offerings that can be find every where, streets and houses. Ubud, Bali

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Special offerings for festivals, that include flowers, food, coconut and delicate decorations made from bambu. Ubud, Bali

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Bali_Nyepi_ogoh-ogoh_DSC_3376 — Rituals in front of the temples on the last day of the Sasak calendar. Ubud, Bali

Bali_Nyepi_ogoh-ogoh_DSC_3384 — Ubud, Bali

Special offerings during the festival. Ubud, Bali

Rituals in front of the temples. Ubud, Bali

Bali_Nyepi_ogoh-ogoh_DSC_3496 — traditional outfit for festive days. Ubud, Bali

Bali_Nyepi_ogoh-ogoh_DSC_3524 — boxes made form bambu with offerings for the rituals on the last day of the year. Ubud, Bali

Bali_Nyepi_ogoh-ogoh_DSC_3400 — rituals at the temples before the Nyepi day. Ubud, Bali

Practical information about the Ogoh-ogoh parade in Ubud:

The Ogoh-ogoh parade and the Nyepi festival is celebrated all over Bali island.

The Ogoh-ogoh parade start around 5 p.m. but two hours before you can see the different groups (usually men and boys but also some girls) caring the demons to the ground in front of the temples. And it ends around 9 p.m. with the entire Ogoh-ogoh gathering at the ground near Monkey Forest Temple

The parade move around a few streets in Ubud, but the center of everything is the Jalan Hanoman nearby the Pura Padang Kerta, where the Ogoh-ogoh start to gather around 3 p.m.

But the festival that starts a three or four days before, with ceremonies at the temples, and more elaborated offers in front of the houses.

The foreigners are not allowed at the temples during this period, even if dressed with the traditional ceremony Balinese outfit.

Southeast Asia

How to go from Mataram to Bangsal by public transport:

Public Boat to Gili Air:

How to go from Gili Air to Gili Meno:

How to go from Gili Meno to Bangsal (Lombok):

Where to sleep in Mataram:

Where to eat in Mataram:

How to move around in Mataram:

ATMs and Money exchange in Mataram:

Where to sleep in Tetebatu:

Where to eat in Tetebatu:

How to move around Tetebatu:

ATMs and money exchangers in Tetebatu:

How to go from Tetebatu to Mataram:

Where to sleep in Kuta Lombok:

Where to eat in Kuta Lombok:

Best Beaches to swim around Kuta Lombok:

How to move around Kuta Lombok:

How to go from Kuta Lombok to Tetebatu:

ATMs and money exchanger in Kuta:

It takes time… an enjoyable time to do nothing, a thing that we are not much used to do, and sometimes is not so easy.

How to go from Ubud to Kuta-Lombok by public ferry?

Practical information about the ferryboat from Pandangbai to Lembar:

For more detailed and update information:

How to go from Ubud to Kuta Lombok… costs and time

NOTE: there aren’t Uber, Grab or GoJek in Lombok!

Where to sleep in Ubud (budget option):

Where to eat local food for a cheap price:

Exchange money in Ubud:

Move around Ubud:

What to do in Ubud for free:

See also: Ogoh ogoh and the Nyepi day

Practical information about the Ogoh-ogoh parade in Ubud:

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