Stepping out of Babylon

Nikko… time to enjoy the mountains

Despite being not very far way north from Tokyo, Nikko village is considerably colder as it’s located almost 1300 meters above the sea level. But on the other hand, it’s the ideal place to find the autumn colors that densely cover the steep slopes of the surrounding mountains.

The main reason why Nikko receives so many visitors due to a relatively close location fro Tokyo that allows a day trip to visit the impressive Tosho-gu Temple surrounded by an impressive cedar forest. And that is already a good reason to come, but Nikko has more to offer if you move away from the village area, offering a big diversity of landscapes, with lakes, waterfalls, Natural Parks with several hiking trails… and onsens, that with the winter days are a good treat to warm up the cold evenings.

It’s winter, and in Japan, the sunset is around 4:30pm, so it’s better to wake up early to enjoy the short winter days. And nature rewards anyone who dares to get up early facing the cold mornings with amazing landscapes, where we can see the steam coming off the still lake surface, heated by the nearby hot spring waters. It’s a magical moment where time seems to stop to offer this natural scenery where around there has been nothing but the silence that surrounds the dawn.

And Lake Yunoko was one of the magic places visited around Nikko, where the boiling smelly water from the nearby hot spring offers a kind of apocalyptic vision, with the dense steam almost hiding the surrounding trees and the soil cover with yellowish colours left by the sulfur waters rich in mineral and with therapeutic properties. Nearby, the Okunikko Yumoto Onsen offers the chance to bath in these waters in an old fashion but comfortable place open to the public… and without restriction to tattooed people!

Senjogahara is part of the Nikko National Park it’s a flat area located 1400m above the sea level, where the lake located in this plateau is slowly being naturally drained and transform in wetlands, rich in wildlife, where it’s easy to spot monkeys. In November you’ll find here a typical winter landscape where the yellow birch leaves cover the ground leaving exposed the white tree trunks. It’s a kind of meditative experience, walking along these trails, where we feel that nature is preparing to face the cold winter temperatures, that here bring snow.

Around Nikko:

For this is better to get a car, but many of the places listed below can be reached by bus, starting from the Nikko bus terminal.

Nikkowanoshiro Onsen Yashio (can be reached by public bus from Tobu-Nikko), with sulfur water, offering also sauna (400¥).
A scenic road that winds up the mountains from Kiotaki to Lake Chusenji
Kegon falls nearby Lake Chusenji… many visitor but still a great landscape and an impressive waterfall
Senjogahara-moor hiking trails… different options according to length, but all in almost flat areas.
Okunikko Yumoto Onsen (about 30km north from Tobu-Nikko) located nearby a Lake Yunoko, with very strong sulfur water (500¥)
Kirifuri Plateau from where you can climb the steps that take you from the 1345m to 1450m, to reach a high point that according to the local information you can even see and Tokyo Tower in clear days!!

Where to sleep in Nikko:

Tora Nikko Guest House… located very close to the train station, in a traditional wooden house with basic rooms and dorms. Very homey and with a super friendly owner, that also runs the cafe in front. The door isn’t easy to finds and there isn’t a clear sign with the name of the guesthouse, but is just next-door of Nikko Guest House Sumica.

How to reach Nikko:

The easiest way to reach Nikko village is by train, and there’s a direct line from Tokyo, but if you are traveling by Shinkansen train you need to change trains in Utsunomia Station to catch the Tobu-Nikko Line (the JP rail pass is also valid here).

Just watch out that Nikko has two train stations… the last one is Tobu-Nikko, and it’s the one close by the hostels and the Toshu-gu temple.

Mount Fuji… perfect from any perspective

Sitting in a cafe at Shimoyoshida train station (yes, Japan’s train stations can offer very cozy and pleasant places) watch the movement of the station as visitors head for Arakuratama Sengen Park, one of the best high spots to observe Mount Fuji.

Mount Fuji is undoubtedly an unquestionable point of Japan’s iconography and has been present for centuries in literature and painting, receiving thousands of tourists, both foreign and local, the latter most during the weekends.

But there are many places to see from Mount Fuji, even on clear days you can see it from Tokyo. But to observe this still active volcano there are many chances, being the region called Fuji five Lakes the best base point to explore and observe this almost perfect volcanic cone.

From the Fuji Five Lakes, I chose Kawaguchiko Lake, which is the easiest to reach by train, being the Fujiyuko Line railway station, which is accessible from Tokyo. Although not the most important settlement in the area, Kawaguchiko is prepared to receive the huge influx of tourism, and for the first time in Japan, I found myself in a place where most things are tourist orientated… but nothing wrong with that!!!

Kawaguchiko is still a nice and calm place if you move away from the train/bus station area, and it’s not easy to spot a small garden with radish or cabbage next to the houses, which in this town are all of the small and with uniform size and style.

If you want to stay away from the crowds you really must climb up the lot, reach the Goten, on the top of the Arakurayama Mountain … watch out, as bears were spotted nearby, so bring a bell or something to keep them away.

Kawaguchiko it’s also a good base point from where you can reach on foot Kawaguchiko Tenjozan Park (the top of the ropeway) and Arakuratama Sengen Park, that’s a bit far but doable.

Despite the tourism Kawaguchiko town offer nice spots to relax, like plenty of coffee shops, cool and stylish hostels (with a wide range of budgets) and very good restaurants … and you don’t even need to make any effort to see the Mount Fuji, as it dominates the town and you can easily spot in just wandering along Kawaguchiko streets.

In alternative you have Shimoyoshida and Gekkouji, but in my opinion these are too much “sleepy towns” but if you want to be away from the crowds and look for a more local experience these are good places to stay with train connection with Kawaguchiko and the Fujiyuko Line Note that the Fujiyuko Line is private, so if you have the JP Rail pass it’s not valid here and for all the trip from Otsuki Station you pay 1170¥ for the ticket (local train) plus an extra 200¥ if you choose the express train.

Where to stay in Kawaguchiko:

Kagelow Mt. Fuji Hostel was mu choice, with a nice common area (which is also a café and restaurant) where you can chill if the Mount Fuji is in “his” cloudy days !!! … you can even see Fuji from the hostel terrace, and it’s an easy walk from the Kawaguchiko train station.

Where to stay in Gekkouji:

I stay in Mt Fuji Hostel Michael… It’s simple and quiet but most of all it is conveniently located at a walking distance from the train station.

Where to eat in Kawaguchiko:

Hotou Fudo… an just in front of the train station, serving the Hotou, a traditional local soup (vegetarian) in iron pans… delicious food and here you can’t go wrong whatever you choose; it close around 7 pm.

Tempura Restaurante Nija… an informal restaurant with tempura sets, with options for vegetarians.

Onsen in Fuji area:

There are a few onsen (hot springs) in the Mount Fuji area, but some of them are associated with hotels and charge high entrance fees or are far way from the any train station.

But not far from Shimoyoshida Station, maybe 15 minutes walking, there a small onsen, a bit away from everything, located in a traditional wooden house, surrounded by a small garden. The Yoshinoike Onsen, charge 600¥ for 2 hours, that is more than enough to stay there, and offer in the end tea and radish pickles. You must bring your own towel (if not they sell one for 270¥) but the soap is available. Doen’s have a Fuji view or a outdoor pool but you can seen the trees by the window and enjoy an almost empty pool with very hot water!!!

How to reach Kawaguchiko by train:

The Fujikyuko Line links Ōtsuki to Kawaguchiko with a regular and frequente service.

But watch out that this is a private line, so if you are traveling with a JR Pass, it’s not valid in this line and at Ōtsuki you need to get a ticket.

The Fujikyuko Line has two types of service; the slower one (Local) and the fast one (Express) that for extra 600¥, saves you 11 minutes… yes, just eleven minutes!!!

Kamakura and the temples

It’s time to leave the autumn colors of the Hokkaido region behind, and move to more mild temperatures. Kamakura is located a little south of Tokyo, is famous for the big concentration of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines.

I choose to stay a few days, to have time to enjoy the place, starting early in the morning to avoid the crowds and spend the rest of the day wandering through the commercial streets of Kamakura, enjoying the cozy cafes and delighting with hand-made noodles.

Located by the sea, nearby a wide bay of dark sand where some surfers try their change in the small waves. But the visitors don’t come to Kamakura looking for waves but the focus is directed towards the hills where a dense forest nestles temples and shrines. The Daibutsu, the country’s second-largest bronze Buddha is undoubtedly Kamakura’s most famous site, but it is far from being the most interesting.

In fact, it’s difficult to say which are the “best” temples or shrines to visit, as for the Buddhist followers some of these places have great importance and meaning, but for a “foreigner” maybe a hidden temple in the forest in a less busy place may result in a memorable experience than a huge construction full of stressed visitors.

And from what I saw in Kamakura, the Kotoku-in (with the Daibutsu) and the Hokoku-ji (famous for the bamboo forest) weren’t the most significant temples… but Sugimoto-dera (located a bit far from the Kamakura train station, but reachable by bus) was the temple that caused a stronger impression on me, maybe because of the location, on the top of a small steep slope, surrounded by big cedar trees or maybe because of the quietness due to the almost absence of visitors.

The Sugimoto-dera is one of the oldest temples in Kamakura, and it’s allowed to go inside close to the altar. Being in such a special place, where the senses focus on the smell of cedarwood mixed with the smoke of incense that has been lit by pilgrims for centuries left in me a strong and pleasant memory. As the eyes become accustomed to the dimness, various Buddha statues show up, where the golden tones with which they were once covered give way to the dark tones of the wood. In Sugimoto-dera we can feel the sacred air impregnated with religiosity and devotion of the many pilgrims who come here.

The Zeniarai Benzaiten Shrine has the peculiarity of being accessible by a tunnel dug in the rock, which ends in an area surrounded by mountains and forests. There are surrounded by rocky cliffs with small shrines hidden in caves where pilgrims say their prayers and perform the Shinto rituals. The dense smoke of the burning incense creates a thin mist and a mystic atmosphere.

Last but not least… Kencho-ji is a famous temple connected with the Zen meditation, comprising various impressive wood buildings, vast and at the same time graceful and elegant. Despite a large number of visitors, Kencho-ji can still offer a relaxing atmosphere, if you go early in the morning before the arrival of the crowds, especially on the weekends.

The Hasedera Temple was the last temple visited in Kamakura and I was a bit surprised with its hillside gardens, traversed by small streams where artificial ponds with colorful koi swim. In one of the buildings, the Kyozo, there is a gigantic prayer well that I hadn’t found yet in the Buddhist temples of Japan.

But what stands up above all in the Hasedera Temple is the Benten-Kutsu Cave, an artificial cave with Buddha statues carved in the rock. You can breathe the cold and humid air here, but the heavy silence makes this place special. Walking through the cave are several rooms were on the floor and on the walls devotees place small statues of Benten-Kutsu with prayers and wishes left by pilgrims and visitors… anyone can ask for a wish, write on the statue and place it under Benten-Kutsu’s protection!!!

Notes:

The Daibutsu Trail and the Ten-en Hiking Course were closed as a result of the last typhoon.
You need to pay for almost the temples listed above… something between 200¥ and 500¥.
The temples open at 8 am and it’s the best time to visit them; around 10 o’clock the most popular places are already crowded.

Where to sleep in Kamakura:

The WeBase Kamakura Hostel is located a bit far from the train station, but very close to the beach as also from the Hasedera Temple and Kotoku-in Temple.

The conditions are amazing and it even has a common bath (a kind of hot spring but with normal water tap); it’s a bit pricy and it lacks in atmosphere and character. Is more like a hotel but with dorms, not at all a backpacker place!

Ainu… people from the north!

Hokkaido is also home to one of Japan’s small ethnic groups, the Ainu, descendants of Caucasian peoples from Russia. There are some cultural centers and museums with information about Ainu culture and people, but in Hakodate I found it as easily as possible at the Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples.

It is a small collection but it focuses on various topics of Ainu culture, located in a lugubrious building that was once a bank.

Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples

Places to find more about the Ainu people:

Shiraoi Porotokotan Ainu Museum: http://www.ainu-museum.or.jp/en/
Nibutani Ainu Culture Museum (Nibutani town where about 80%
of the population is Ainu) http://www.town.biratori.hokkaido.jp/biratori/nibutani/
Foundation for Ainu Culture: https://www.ff-ainu.or.jp/web/english/
Hokkaido Museum (Sapporo): http://www.hm.pref.hokkaido.lg.jp/en/
Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples: http://www.zaidan-hakodate.com/hoppominzoku/#sisetu

In April 2020, a large museum dedicated exclusively to Ainu culture is expected to open in Hokkaidō. https://www.ainu-upopoy.jp/en/

Hakodate… surrounded by the sea

The smell of the sea is always present in this peninsula-nested town where fishing and selling seafood products are the main activity, with squid, the crab and the seaweeds standing out in both restaurants and seafood shops.

But Hakodate, despite being the gateway to the Hokkaido prefecture (now less important since the Shinkansen train has now made the connection to this island by removing ferry money), lives in a monotonous calm where the boulevards wide, lattice-like designs never fill with cars, where the tram runs almost empty and where the broad sidewalks look almost deserted.

In the mornings, daily the highlight of Hakodate’s commercial life is the Asa-ich market, which extends into the adjacent streets, dedicated to selling fish and other marine products, but where the highlight is the giant crabs.

At the end of this peninsula rises abruptly a hill whose autumn vegetation is dotted with brown and yellow with dark reds here and there. At the foot of this elevation lies the most interesting part of the city, the Motomachi district; a concentration of houses and churches built in the ninth century, arranged in a perfect lattice that climbs the steep hill. Most of the houses, made of wood and painted in soft pastel colors, feature European architecture and the presence of British-style Christian churches creates a stark contrast to the rest of the city and does not even seem to belong to this country.

But for me, the best part of my stay in Hokadote is the proximity of Onuma National Park, from what is left of Koma-ga-take volcano, the highest in the region. From a 30,000-year-old eruption dammed up depressions at the base of the mountain thus creating Lake Onuma, where several small islands appear, most of them near the village of Onumakoen (where the train station is located). Connecting these small islands, full of dense trees, there are small bridges that allow you to enjoy a pleasant walk where in the quieter waters you can see ducks and where birds of prey quietly fly over the trees. Some of these trails offer very good views of the Koma-ga-take volcano.

How to reach Onuma Quasi National Park:

The park is located about 30 km north of Hakodate, about 30 minutes by train (Super-Hokuto) to Onumakoen, the nearby station. Outside the station you’ll find a board with the trail maps.

It’s possible to rent a bicycle to visit the park, but the trails near the village of Onumakoen are closed to bicycles, and these are only worth renting if you want to go around the lake.

There are accommodations also at Onumakoen, but found them more expensive and to visit the park, half day is more than enough.

How to visit Motomachi:

This neighbourhood is easily reached on foot from Hakodate downtown.

Where to sleep in Hakodate:

Motomachi Guest House Cocoa

Address: 040-0064 Hokkaido, Hakodate, Otemachi, 6-4; Phone: 0138-83-6605

It’s a new hostel only with dorms (male and female) with very good conditions, attractive price and about 10 minutes from Hakodate trains station. The breakfast in included but is very basic. Tea and coffee are for free. There are bicycles available.

Ainu People:

Noboribetsu… finally the onsen experience!

Noboribetsu was the first stop in Hokkaido prefecture and is famous for its sulphorous water springs, which in addition to its medicinal properties create fascinating landscapes of bare green slopes from where water vapor rises in dense clouds and lakes of murky whitish waters.

The small village is not very appealing, being no more than two parallel streets, dominated by massive concrete buildings associated with the hot springs and some shops and restaurants aimed at visitors, mainly Japanese.

But a little farther north is Jigokudani, known as Hell Valley, given its lush, green and mottled landscape and yellows and whites through the sweltering waters that emerge at various points of the ground, filling the air with sulphurous gauze and unpleasant smells.

Around Jigokudani there are several trails, which can be easily reached in less than 2 hours, which lead to viewpoints and Oyunuma Pond, a lake of murky, bubbling waters from which dense and sulphurous steam gives off.

In Japanese Buddhist temples is common people place small wood boards asking for wishes; the paper are a kind of fortune teller, that when don’t have a good luck text can be left hanging in proper places inside the temples… the good luck papers can be kept!

Onsen is an unavoidable word from a trip around Japan, and refers to hot springs, which are located all over the country, and are associated with communal bath houses. The visit to the onsen is part of the life of the japanese and it's a very relaxing experience. It worthwhile to try onsen in various regions with different types of waters, many for therapeutic purposes.

How to reach Noboribetsu Onsen from Noboribetsu:

The cheapest option is to stay in the village of Noboribetsu, close to the train station, and visit the Onsen area in a day trip.

There are buses leaving from the train station regularly during all the day. The round trip costs 340yen and you can buy the ticket in a machine, inside the train station. The trip takes about 30 minutes.

Where to experience the onsen in Noboribetsu:

The cheapest option in town is the public onsen (Yumoto Sagiriyu), but people with tattoos are not allowed.

So my choice was the small Kashoutei Hanaya that has 1 outdoor bath and 1 indoor bath; it cost 1000 yen, and you don’t need to bring anything (shampoo, shower soap, conditioner and towel are always free at onsen) and you can stay the time you want; tea and coffee are available for free. It’s located a bit away from the Noboribetsu Onsen but not more than 5 minutes walking south.

For more information about onsen in Noboribetsu check this link: https://good-hokkaido.info/en/noboribetsuonsen/

Outside poo Noboribetsu *onsen* with milky soulful waters… it’s a small pool but perfect as I was alone

From this experience was the wonderful feeling of being immersed in an outdoor pool surrounded by trees, feeling the steam of the water that is over 45 degrees while blowing an icy breeze. A mixture of indescribable sensations … and an experience to repeat!!!

Where to sleep in Noboribetsu:

In fact there’s not much to se or do in Noboribetsu village, but here you can get budget accommodation is Noboribetsu Guesthouse AKA &AO (https://aka-ao.jp/en/).

Where to eat in Noboribetsu:

Yakitori Izakaya (ask at AKA &AO Guesthouse)… the only restaurant open in town for dinner. Delicious food with many vegetarian options in a cosy countryside atmosphere. Yummy!!!

… otherwise you have the convenience stores and supermarkets with ready made food.

Noboribetsu village map… here is the location of the Guesthouse AKA &AO as also theYakitori Izakaya restaurant

Hokkaido… in search of the autumn colours

Time to leave the city behind and go on search of the autumn colour in the northeast province of Japan: Hokkaido.

It takes just over 4 hours to overcome the 860km (thanks to the Shinkansen, the famous bullet train) that separates the Japanese capital from Hokkaido province, which is the least densely populated region is Japan, being famous for the almost untouched natures and by the cold climate, influence by proximity with Russia, receiving from it the Siberian cold.

Here winter comes early, and even in the low areas the trees are already covered with fall foliage, with the landscape dominated by the brown colours of the beech, the yellows of the ginkos, the oranges from the cherry trees, and here and there the deep red of the maples tree leafs.

Despite the cold, where the temperature the mornings in October is around 10 degrees, the beauty of the landscape makes forget the cold hands and the drop on the nose!!

The Hokkaido region is famous for its many natural parks and onsen, the famous hot springs that are all over Japan. Noboribetsu was the region of choice for ease of access and Onuma Quasi National Park, which is very close to Hakodate, easily accessible by train.

For more details about the foliage for each area of Japan check this website: https://www.jrailpass.com/blog/japan-autumn-leaves-forecast

Where to get a SIM Card at the Narita Airport

Internet in Japan… this was a subject that took me some time and research to figure out how to get it.

There are several wells to have access to the Internet in Japan. Although pocket wi-fi is available it only worth it if you want to continue to use the SIM card from your country but have the inconvenience of being another device to carry.

The simplest thing is to buy a Japanese SIM card and you don’t have to book or buy anything in advance or use one of the many services available on-line. You can do it at your arrival, easily at the airport.

At Narita Airport, there are several options. Just outside the arrivals terminal is an information desk that tells you where to buy the SIM card as well as where to withdraw money from the ATMs.

Going downstairs, on the way to the Keisei Skyliner train that connects the airport with the city of Tokyo, you will find several counters selling both SIM cards as well as cell phones and Pocket wi-fi (the latter are for rent). Also here you’ll find an ATM from SevenBank (from SevenElevan).

Several options are depending on the number of days (one week, 15 days or one month) with only Internet data or also with the possibility of phone calls.

I bought my SIM card on SevenElevan (a supermarket located next to these counters) for 4950 yen, valid for 30 days with 10GB, mobile data only.

To activate the service you don’t need anything!!! Just change the SIM cards and you have the Internet active immediately. It couldn’t be easier!!!

It should be noted that in Japan there are many places with wi-fi, it is not uncommon to find free wi-fi in restaurants, cafes, temples, department stores, airport, subway, train stations and even on trains (Shinkansen and Keisei, for example); there are still some wi-fi spots on the streets of some of the cities … not very fast but it helps to navigate on maps and communicate by text.